\ML 


THE  AUTHORS 
EXPEDITIONS 

OVER  150.000  MILES 


LEO  E.  MILLER 


BERKELEY 

LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF 
CALIFORNIA 


ANTHROPOLOGY 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


Theo  H.  Crook  Collecti 

Bancroft  Library 

Univers-ty  of  California 

WITHDRAWN 


on 


IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 


From  a  painting  by  Louis  Agassiz  Fuertes. 

The  cock-of-the-rock  at  home. 


IN  THE  WILDS 
OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 


SIX   YEARS    OF    EXPLORATION   IN 

COLOMBIA,  VENEZUELA,  BRITISH  GUIANA,  PERU,  BOLIVIA, 
ARGENTINA,    PARAGUAY,    AND    BRAZIL 


BY 

LEO  E.   MILLER 

u 

OF   THE   AMERICAN  MUSEUM   OF    NATURAL  HISTORY 


WITH     OVER    70    ILLUSTRATIONS    AND     A    MAP 


NEW  YORK 

CHARLES   SCRIBNER'S   SONS 
1919 


COPTRIOHT,    1917.   1918,   BT 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 


Published  October,  1918 


Bancroft  Iflbrsry 

ers.ty  of  California  M  fo   7 

WITHDRAWN  ' 


TO 

MY  WIFE 
L.  E.  M. 


824 


1 1  &  c.    a  IT  1 


PREFACE 

I  HAVE  frequently  wondered  how  many  of  the  large 
number  of  people  who  visit  natural-history  museums  have 
any  conception  of  the  appearance  and  actions,  in  their 
wilderness  homes,  of  the  creatures  they  see,  and  of  the 
experiences  of  the  field-naturalists  who  visit  the  little-known 
places  of  the  earth  in  search  of  them. 

My  experience  as  a  field-naturalist  consists  of  nearly  six 
years  of  almost  continuous  exploration  in  South  America, 
and  embraces  practically  all  of  the  republics  of  that  con- 
tinent. 

The  purpose  of  this  narrative  is  tot  follow  the  course  of 
these  explorations  into  the  tropical  jungles  of  the  Amazon, 
Paraguay,  Orinoco,  and  others  of  South  America's  master 
rivers,  and  to  the  frigid  heights  of  the  snow-crowned  Andes. 

In  these  jungles  one  hears  the  hoarse  cough  of  the  jaguar 
and  the  scream  of  long-tailed,  multicolored  macaws  as  they 
fly  two  by  two  overhead;  the  extraordinary  chorus  of  frogs 
and  insects  may  lull  the  weary  senses  to  sleep  at  night- 
fall, but  the  dismal  roar  of  howling  monkeys  is  sure  to 
awaken  one  at  dawn.  To  start  at  the  sudden,  long-drawn 
hiss  of  a  boa  or  the  lightning-like  thrust  of  the  terrible  bush- 
master,  the  largest  of  poisonous  snakes,  and  a  creature  so 
deadly  that  a  man  may  die  within  ten  minutes  after  the 
fatal  stroke,  and  to  shudder  as  the  wild,  insane  cackle  of  the 
wood-rails  shatters  the  brooding  silence  of  the  forest,  are 
merely  incidents  of  the  explorer's  every-day  life;  and  so, 
too,  are  visits  to  deep  lagoons  teeming  with  crocodiles,  can- 
nibal fishes,  and  myriads  of  water-fowl;  lengthy  sojourns  in 
gloomy  forests  where  orchids  droop  from  moss-draped 
branches,  brilliant  butterflies  shimmer  in  the  subdued  light, 
and  curious  animals  live  in  the  eternal  shadows;  and  ascents 

vii 


viii  PREFACE 

of  the  stupendous  mountain  ranges  where  condors  soar 
majestically  above  the  ruins  of  Incan  greatness.  In  short, 
the  expeditions  recorded  in  the  book  lead  through  remote 
wilderness  where  savage  peoples  and  little-known  animals 
spend  their  lives  in  stealth  and  vigilance,  all  oblivious  of  the 
existence  of  an  outer  world. 

The  explorations  here  recounted  were  undertaken  by  me 
as  a  member  or  leader  of  the  following  expeditions,  all  of 
which  were  undertaken  under  the  auspices  of  the  American 
Museum  of  Natural  History,  New  York  City:  Colombia — 
March,  1911,  to  September,  1912;  Colombia — November, 

1914,  to  April,  1915;  Venezuela — November,  1912,  to  June, 
1913;  British  Guiana— July  to  October,  1913;   Roosevelt- 
Rondon  South  American  Expedition,  mostly  in  Brazil  but 
covering  a  part  of  Paraguay,  with  stops  in  Uruguay  and 
Argentina— October,  1913,  to  June,  1914;   Bolivia — May, 

1915,  to  January,  1916,  touching  at  Panama,  Ecuador, 
and  Peru  en  route;    Argentina — January  to  September, 

1916,  The  purpose  of  these  expeditions  was  to  collect  birds 
and  mammals;  also  to  study  the  fauna  in  general  and  to 
make  all  possible  observations  regarding  the  flora,  topog- 
raphy, climate,  and  human  inhabitants  of  the  regions  visited. 
The  personnel  of  each  expedition  is  given  in  the  proper 
place  in  the  text. 

I  wish  to  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  to  Doctor  Frank 
M.  Chapman  and  to  Colonel  Theodore  Roosevelt  for  sug- 
gesting and  encouraging  the  production  of  this  book,  also 
to  Mrs.  Alice  K.  Fraser  for  the  great  amount  of  time  and 
work  devoted  to  typewriting  the  manuscript. 

LEO  E.  MILLEK. 


CONTENTS 


PART  I 
COLOMBIA 

CHAPTER  PAOB 

I.    BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI  AND  THE  CAUCA  VALLEY  .        3 

II.      POPAYAN   AND  THE   CfiRRO   MUNCHIQUE      .       ...         18 

III.  THE  ANDES  SOUTHWEST  OF  POPAYAN;    CRUISE  OF 

THE  "CALDAS"  .     . 34 

IV.  CARTAGO  TO  THE  PARAMOS  OF  Ruiz  AND  SANTA  ISABEL      47 

V.    THE  CHOCO  COUNTRY  ON  THE  WESTERN  COAST  OF 

COLOMBIA 64 

VI.    IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK       ....      76 
VII.    CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  INTO  THE  CAQUETA       92 

VIII.    ACROSS  THE  ANTIOQUIAN  GOLD-FIELDS  TO  PUERTO 

VALDIVIA  ON  THE  LOWER  CAUCA     //  .     .     .     .     106 

IX.    ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO — COLLECTING  ON  THE  Rio 

Sucio  120 


PART  II 
VENEZUELA 

X.    FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO  .     .     .     141 

XI.    THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  AND  THE  UPPER  ORINOCO    162 

XII.    LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS 180 

XIII.    FIRST  WEEKS  WITH  THE  ROOSEVELT  SOUTH  AMERICAN 

EXPEDITION 194 

ix 


X  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  »AOB 

XIV.    HUNTING  EXCURSIONS  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY    208 

XV.    A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE    THROUGH  WILDEST   MATTO 

GROSSO    .     .     •.     •  '  V  ^ 223 

XVI.    THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  Rio  GY-PARANA    ....     240 

XVII.  DOWN  THE  COAST  OF  PERU— LAKE  TITICACA  AND  LA 
PAZ — THROUGH  THE  ANCIENT  INCAN  EMPIRE  TO 
COCHABAMBA 265 

XVIII.    CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS  FROM  COCHA- 
BAMBA TO  THE  CHAPARE 279 

XIX.    AMONG  THE  YURACAR£  INDIANS  OF  THE  Rio  CHIMORE    303 

XX.    THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA — COCHA- 
BAMBA TO  SAMAIPATA 321 

XXI.    A  MULE-BACK  JOURNEY  ON  THE  SANTA  CRUZ  TRAIL 

TO  SUCRE 336 

XXII.    SUCRE,  THE  Rio  PILCOMAYO,  AND  THE  UPLAND  DESERT 

TO  THE  ARGENTINE  FRONTIER 349 

XXIII.  BIRD-NESTING  IN  NORTHWESTERN  ARGENTINA    .     .     365 

XXIV.  THE  CHACO — SUGAR  PLANTATIONS  AND  RICE  MARSHES 

— A  SEARCH  FOR  A  RARE  BIRD 378 

XXV.      VIZCACHA-HUNTING     IN     AN     ARGENTINE     DESERT— 

GIANT  SNAKES 396 

XXVI.    THE  LAKE  REGION  OF  WESTERN  ARGENTINA— THE 

HEART  OF  THE  WINE  COUNTRY 412 

INDEX  425 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


The  cock-of-the-rock  at  home Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

Buenaventura -v 

Cattle  grazing  in  the  Cauca  Valley 14 

Port  of  Guanchito 14 

Cerro  Munchique ...........  30 

A  deserted  Indian  hut  on  the  Cerro  Munchique 30 

The  CcMas  fast  on  a  sand-bar  hi  the  Cauca  River  .......  44 

Bamboo  rafts  on  the  Cauca  River     .     ,     ,     ,     ,     .     .     «,*.•*    *     •  44 

The  town  of  Salento     .    -.     .     .     .     .     .  •  •+, .•;&  •  «.- .  ••'«, '  •*    ...    ,-,%.  50 

The  lake  on  the  paramo  of  Santa  Isabel 58 

Snow  on  the  paramo  of  Ruiz  .  :   .     .  ' . .     .     ..     .. .   .,    .     ^     .     .     .  58 

Native  of  Juntas  de  Tamana  with  trail-haunting  blacksnake  ....  68 

The  author  with  natives  of  Juntas  de  Tamana 68 

Novita,  the  largest  town  in  the  Choco    .     ,,    .     .     .     .     ....  72 

Threshing  wheat •     «.    * •-*-    <'i  *.':*;•  t.  , «,    •     •.  ^8 

Indian  hut  in  the  Valle  de  las  Papas 78 

The  village  of  Santa  Barbara 86 

A  corner  of  San  Augustin 86 

A  mountain  stream,  such  as  the  Rio  Naranjos,  where  the  cock-of-the- 
rock  spends  its  existence 88 

Tree-fern,  typical  of  the  Andean  forests 98 

The  high,  flat-topped  panorama  of  the  Andes 102 

The  town  of  Valdivia 108 

xi 


xii  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING    PAGE 

The  Cauca  River  at  Puerto  Valdivia 108 

A  naturalists' camp  in  the  forest .     .  116 

A  native  hunter  with  a  red  howling  monkey 116 

The  porters  en  route  to  the  Paramillo 124 

Cuiia  Indians  at  Dabeiba " 124 

Our  camp  on  the  Paramillo : 126 

Dabeiba  on  the  Rio  Sucio  , 130 

The  village  of  Maipures 156 

The  Hilo  de  Oro  at  the  end  of  the  voyage 156 

A  rubber-camp  on  the  Upper  Orinoco 170 

Unloading  for  the  portage,  Raudal  del  Muerto 172 

The  Cerro  Duida 172 

Wismar  on  the  Demerara  River 182 

Tumatumari  on  the  Potaro  River 182 

Camp  on  the  Rio  Negro  in  the  Gran  Chaco  of  the  Paraguay  ....  200 

Selling  oranges  in  the  market  at  Asuncion 200 

A  street  in  Buenos  Aires 204 

Porto  Gallileo  on  the  Rio  Pilcomayo 204 

Fort  of  Coimbra  on  the  Rio  Paraguay 206 

S.  S.  Nyoac  on  the  Paraguay  River 214 

Corumbd 214 

Colonel  Roosevelt  in  the  Brazilian  chapadao 226 

A  camp  in  the  chapadSo ....     .  226 

The  Falls  of  Salto  Bello  of  the  Rio  Papagayo   ......     .     .230 

Camp  on  the  Rio  da  Duvida  .     .     .     .    '.  "'-.  "".* ''.  ".     .     ...  242 

A  rubber-camp  on  the  Rio  Gy-Parana    ....    7 254 

A  rubber-camp  on  the  Lower  Gy-Parand    V '. 254 


ILLUSTRATIONS  xiii 

FACING  FAOB 

Country  around  Arequipa,  showing  Mount  Misti 268 

The  expedition  en  route  via  hand-car,  Changollo  to  Arce 268 

An  Indian  hut  in  the  Yungas  of  Cochabamba  . 288 

The  expedition  in  the  Cuchicancha  Pass 292 

Vampire-bat  from  Todos  Santos .     ,  300 

Tamandua  ant-eater 300 

Yuracares  chewing  yucca-roots  for  making  casire 306 

Yuracare  women  and  children 306 

The  great  Puya,  a  species  of  pine  growing  in  the  Bolivian  Andes  at  an 

elevation  of  13,000  feet 324 

The  plaza  at  Mizque 326 

Vermejo  on  the  Santa  Cruz  trail 338 

Quechua  habitation  on  the  upland  desert 346 

Rio  Cachimayo  at  Peras  Pampa,  Sucre 352 

Bridge  across  the  Rio  Pilcomayo 352 

Quechua  Indians  wearing  the  costume  used  during  the  reign  of  the 

Incas,  five  hundred  years  ago 358 

Ploughing  at  Rosario  de  Lerma 374 

Tilcara,  showing  the  stream  and  valley  and  the  snow-capped  Andes  in 

the  distance 374 

The  lagoon  in  the  Chaco,  Embarcacion 380 

Paramo  above  Tafi 380 

The  great  crested  tinamou 402 

A  burrowing  owl      ...„., ...    ,     .     .  402 

Skinning  a  boa *     .     .  404 

Boa  sunning  itself  at  the  entrance  to  a  vizcacha  burrow   .     .     ;     .     .  404 

Oculto,  or  Tucotuco,  a  rare  rodent  with  mole-like  habits 406 

Gray  fox,  abundant  in  the  semiarid  regions  .........  406 


xiv  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING   PAGE 

Long-tailed  vizcacha  of  the  high  Andes 410 

Short-tailed  vizcacha  of  the  Argentine  lowlands 410 

Rice-fields  at  the  foot  of  the  Andes  Mountains,  Sarmientos    ....     416 

MAPS 

Sketch  map  of  the  south-central  part  of  the  Amazon  drainage  system   .     241 

Routes  taken  by  the  author  in  his  South  American  explorations 

At  end  of  the  volume 


PART  I 
COLOMBIA 


CHAPTER  I 
BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI,   AND   THE   CAUCA  VALLEY 

THE  voyage  from  Panama  to  Buenaventura,  the  more 
northern  of  Colombia's  two  Pacific  seaports,  requires  but 
two  days'  time.  Owing  to  numerous  reefs  and  rocks  that 
render  navigation  perilous  along  the  coast  of  northwestern 
South  America,  it  is  necessary  for  ships  to  sail  far  out  into 
the  Pacific.  Banks  of  low-hanging  fog,  encountered  at 
frequent  intervals,  add  further  to  the  skipper's  difficul- 
ties. 

The  captain  of  the  Quito  followed  a  simple  plan  for  find- 
ing port.  It  was  his  custom  to  steam  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion about  forty-eight  hours,  and  then  head  toward  the 
coast.  Once  in  sight  of  land,  there  was  little  difficulty  in 
getting  his  bearings,  although  it  frequently  meant  steam- 
ing back  a  distance  of  ten  or  fifteen  miles. 

At  noon  on  the  second  day  out  we  entered  what  might 
be  called  the  belt  of  perpetual  rain,  and  for  three  hours 
water  fell  in  such  torrents  that  it  seemed  a  solid  wall.  When 
the  deluge  had  ceased  and  the  last  wisps  of  blue-gray  vapor 
melted  into  oblivion,  the  shore-line,  dim  and  distant,  could 
be  discerned.  The  faint  outline  of  a  rugged  coast  became 
gradually  sharper;  jagged  rocks,  frowning  precipices,  and 
dark,  gloomy  forests  slowly  unfolded  themselves  to  the 
vision.  The"  magnitude  of  it  all  was  most  impressive. 

Then  followed  a  ten-mile  sail  through  the  placid  water 
of  Buenaventura  Bay.  Numberless  brown  pelicans  fished 
in  the  shallows  while  others,  in  long  files,  alternately  sailed 
and  flapped  through  the  air  on  their  way  to  some  isolated 
nook  among  the  mangroves.  The  dark,  hazy  shore-line 
at  the  head  of  the  bay  gradually  dissolved  itself  into  lines 


4  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

of  graceful  cocoanut-palms  and  low,  thatched  huts  flanked 
by  a  seemingly  endless  mantle  of  green.  Huge  dugout 
canoes  made  from  logs  of  great  size  swarmed  out  from  the 
water's  edge,  their  dusky  paddlers  vying  with  one  another 
in  their  efforts  to  be  the  first  to  reach  the  steamer;  then 
the  men  quarrelled  violently  among  themselves,  and  also 
shouted  to  the  persons  on  the  deck,  soliciting  luggage  to 
take  ashore.  Before  long,  trunks  were  being  lowered  into 
some  of  these  wallowing  craft  while  passengers  embarked 
in  others,  and  the  paddle  of  a  mile  to  shore  began. 

Unfortunately  the  tide  was  ebbing,  leaving  extensive 
mud-flats  exposed  along  the  water-front.  As  there  was  no 
pier  it  was  necessary  for  the  canoemen  to  carry  on  their 
backs  the  human  freight  as  well  as  trunks  and  other  luggage 
through  a  wide  belt  of  mud  and  sand. 

Our  party  consisted  of  Doctor  Frank  M.  Chapman,  cu- 
rator of  birds,  of  the  American  Museum,  Louis  Agassiz 
Fuertes,  and  myself.  At  Buenaventura  we  were  joined  by 
William  Richardson,  who  had  spent  many  years  as  a  field- 
naturalist  in  Central  and  South  American  countries.  We 
were  starting  on  a  zoological  expedition — a  quest  for  birds 
and  mammals,  and  also  to  study  the  country,  life-zones, 
problems  of  distribution  and  many  other  things  inseparable 
from  a  biological  survey  such  as  we  proposed  to  make.  The 
original  plans  of  the  expedition  called  for  a  rather  short 
stay;  but  for  me,  at  least,  the  experience  was  destined  to 
cover  a  period  of  eighteen  months  and  take  me  to  some  of 
the  most  remote  and  wildest  portions  of  the  country. 

Viewed  from  the  water,  Buenaventura  appears  most  un- 
attractive. The  row  of  squat,  makeshift  huts,  built  on  tall 
poles,  extends  far  beyond  the  line  of  high  water;  as  the  tide 
rises  the  water  swishes  and  gurgles  underneath  the  houses 
and  the  occupants  travel  about  in  canoes.  Farther  from 
the  shore  the  ground  is  high  and  the  town  is  more  interest- 
ing, though  not  inviting.  The  place  bears  an  unenviable 
reputation.  On  account  of  the  superabundant  rainfall  and 
hot  climate,  fevers  and  other  life-sapping  diseases  are  rife 


BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI  5 

and  few  foreigners  can  withstand  the  ordeal  of  a  lengthy 
residence  there.  This  notoriety  had  reached  our  ears  long 
before  we  embarked  on  the  journey;  it  was,  therefore,  with 
a  feeling  of  relief  that  we  learned  of  the  departure  of  a  train 
for  the  interior  early  the  next  morning. 

For  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  after  leaving  Buena- 
ventura, nothing  was  visible  but  swamps  filled  with  man- 
grove thickets.  Then  the  foot-hills  of  the  Andes  appeared, 
the  steady  climb  began  and  the  character  of  the  vegetation 
changed.  Instead  of  the  low,  matted  growth  of  shrubbery, 
there  grew  trees  and  palms  of  goodly  size.  Stops  for  wood 
and  water  were  made  frequently;  the  train  usually  halted 
near  a  collection  of  native  huts,  the  occupants  of  which 
earned  their  living  chopping  wood  for  the  railroad  com- 
pany. Each  habitation  was  surrounded  by  a  small  clearing 
in  which  broad-leaved  banana,  plantain,  and  papaya  trees 
grew  in  wonderful  luxuriance.  Jungles  of  tall  bamboo  bor- 
dered the  plantations  and  grew  beside  the  track.  Plan- 
tains and  bamboo  seem  to  be  the  staples  of  the  people.  The 
former  they  eat,  and  of  the  latter  their  houses  are  built. 
The  flimsy  structures  were  ramshackle  affairs  with  ragged, 
thatched  roofs,  and  fitted  well  into  their  surroundings.  Fre- 
quently we  had  a  fleeting  view  of  the  almost  nude  occupants 
of  the  huts,  lolling  about  in  the  darkened  interior. 

The  first  town  of  any  importance  was  Cisneros.  We  were 
delayed  an  hour  at  this  station  because  the  train  from  the 
opposite  direction  had  met  with  an  accident  that  blocked 
the  track,  and,  as  the  people  were  celebrating  one  of  their 
numerous  fiestas,  it  was  impossible  to  get  men  to  clear  away 
the  wreckage  without  great  loss  of  time. 

The  railroad  continued  up  the  slope,  following  the  wind- 
ing canyon  of  the  Dagua.  It  has  been  said  that  the  cost 
of  constructing  it  was  a  million  dollars  a  mile.  Tunnels, 
deep  cuts  through  spurs  and  ridges,  trestles  and  high  bridges 
followed  one  another  in  quick  succession.  The  perpendicular 
sides  of  the  excavations  were  covered  with  long  moss  and 
drooping  ferns  that  waved  plume-like  overhead.  Mountain 


6  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

torrents  poured  their  crystal  streams  from  openings  in  over- 
grown crevices  and  were  dashed  to  spray  on  the  rocks  be- 
low. Hundreds  of  feet  lower  down,  the  Dagua  raged  within 
the  narrow  confines  of  a  rock-bound  gorge.  Thick  jungles, 
dark  and  impenetrable,  cover  the  slopes.  We  were  conscious 
of  the  perfume  of  flowers  concealed  amid  the  forbidding 
masses  of  deepest  green.  An  iguana,  fully  four  feet  long 
and  of  a  bright  green  color  dashed  across  the  track  a  few 
feet  ahead  of  the  puffing  engine;  a  moment  later  and  the 
beautiful  creature  would  have  been  crushed  to  death.  Over- 
head, flocks  of  parrots  screamed  defiance  at  the  lowly, 
wheezing  thing  that  laboriously  made  its  way  farther  and 
farther  into  their  time-hallowed  abode;  and  toucans,  clat- 
tering their  long  bills  and  yelping,  performed  queer  acro- 
batics in  a  lofty  tree-top.  A  violent  lunge  recalled  us  to 
earth;  the  train  had  stopped  for  more  fuel  so  the  passengers 
got  out  and  amused  themselves  touching  the  sensitive-plants 
that  grew  abundantly  along  the  road-bed. 

Not  long  afterward  we  emerged  suddenly  into  a  peculiar 
region.  There  was  an  abrupt  end  to  the  gloomy  forest, 
and  in  its  place  grew  straggling  clumps  of  giant  cacti.  The 
dividing-line  is  as  sharp  as  if  cut  with  a  knife.  The  fauna 
also  is  different;  instead  of  brilliantly  hued  tanagers,  tro- 
gons  and  toucans,  there  are  wrens,  finches,  and  other  birds 
of  sombre  color.  This  desert-like  belt  continued  for  a  dis- 
tance of  some  miles,  and  then  forest  again  appeared,  on 
the  top  only  of  the  ridges,  at  first,  but  gradually  extending 
downward  until  the  slopes  were  entirely  covered. 

Caldas,  the  terminus  of  the  railroad,  was  reached  at  noon 
and,  after  a  good  deal  of  bargaining,  the  proprietor  of  the 
Hotel  del  Valle  provided  us  with  a  room  containing  four 
bare,  wooden  beds;  but  fortunately  our  blanket-bags  had 
come  with  us,  so  we  rather  rejoiced  that  no  bedding  was 
provided  by  the  innkeeper.  The  buildings  comprising  the 
town  are  scattered  here  and  there  in  small  groups,  making 
it  difficult  to  get  a  comprehensive  idea  of  their  number. 
The  first  impression  suggests  that  there  is  a  population  of 


BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI  7 

a  few  hundred  only,  when  it  is  really  several  thousand.  At 
this  time  (April,  1911)  Caldas  was  an  attractive  spot,  as 
its  elevation  is  two  thousand  feet,  and  the  country  imme- 
diately surrounding  it  is  open;  but  in  recent  years  sufferers 
from  malaria,  yellow  fever,  and  other  diseases  have  gone 
there  from  Buenaventura  to  recuperate,  and  have  left  the 
several  maladies  firmly  implanted  in  the  entire  region,  mak- 
ing it  most  unhealthful. 

A  small  tent-show  was  playing  at  Caldas,  and  as  this 
was  a  most  unusual  occurrence  it  created  a  certain  amount 
of  furor  among  the  people.  It  rained  heavily  the  greater 
part  of  the  afternoon,  but  darkness  had  scarcely  crept  up 
from  the  lowland  when  troops  of  people,  each  one  carrying 
a  chair  or  box  to  sit  on,  came  tramping  from  all  directions, 
their  bare  feet  making  swishing  and  gurgling  sounds  as  they 
plodded  through  mud  and  water.  The  elite — even  Caldas 
boasts  of  a  high-class  social  set — arrived  later  and  stood 
during  practically  the  entire  performance  in  order  to  be 
the  better  seen  and  admired  by  the  "common"  people. 

So  far,  Richardson  had  acted  as  cashier  for  the  party, 
and  it  was  rather  startling  to  see  entries  in  his  journal  such 
as  "lunch,  $200.00;  railroad-tickets,  $2,000.00;  oranges, 
$15.00."  The  Colombian  dollar,  or  pesoy  had  depreciated  in 
value  until  it  was  worth  exactly  one  cent  in  United  States 
currency.  Practically  all  the  money  in  circulation  was  in 
bills  of  from  one  to  one  hundred  pesos,  the  former  predom- 
inating. If  one  had  only  a  hundred  one-peso  notes,  equal- 
ling an  American  dollar,  they  made  quite  a  bulky  parcel;  for 
this  reason  all  the  men  carry  large  leather  pocketbooks  at- 
tached to  a  strap  slung  across  the  shoulder,  and  .quite  in- 
cidentally these  containers  also  hold  cigars,  matches,  and 
various  other  little  articles  dear  to  the  hearts  of  their 
owners. 

Richardson  had  arranged  for  arrieros  and  a  caravan  of 
pack-mules  to  meet  us  early  the  following  morning,  but 
it  was  almost  noon  when  they  appeared.  We  were  in  the 
land  of  manana,  but  had  not  as  yet  learned  to  curb  our  im- 


8  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

patience  at  the  hundred  and  one  exasperating  things  that 
were  constantly  cropping  out  to  impede  our  progress  or 
upset  our  plans.  One  of  the  first  things  the  visitor  to  Latin- 
America  must  learn  is  to  take  things  good-naturedly  and 
as  easily  as  possible.  If  one  employs  servants  regularly  it 
is  possible  to  correct  many  of  their  customs  that  are  so  an- 
noying to  the  North  American;  but  the  countries,  as  a 
whole,  cannot  be  reformed  by  any  one  in  a  single  day,  and 
the  person  who  takes  things  too  seriously  either  lacks  a 
sense  of  humor  or  conveys  the  impression  that  he  is  very 
foolish. 

Some  of  the  mules  were  saddled  for  riding,  while  others 
were  equipped  with  thick  pack-saddles  made  of  burlap 
stuffed  with  straw.  Bags  and  trunks  were  brought  out, 
sorted  as  to  weight,  and  then  loaded  on  the  pack-mules, 
being  held  in  place  one  on  either  side  of  the  animal  with 
cowhide  thongs.  Each  mule  carried  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds.  While  adjusting  cargoes,  the  arrieros,  or 
drivers,  place  their  poncho  over  the  mules'  eyes;  otherwise 
they  would  not  stand  for  the  rather  rough  treatment  to 
which  they  are  subjected. 

The  road  was  fairly  wide  and  good.  It  followed  along 
the  gorge  of  the  Dagua,  now  a  small  stream.  Within  a  few 
hours  the  village  of  El  Carmen  was  reached  arid  we  dis- 
mounted to  await  the  pack-train  and  incidentally  to  have 
lunch  at  the  posada,  and  to  see  a  cock-fight,  for  the  fiesta 
of  yesterday  was  still  in  progress  in  the  rural  districts. 

We  climbed  slowly  and  steadily  upward.  At  fifty-five 
hundred  feet  the  zone  of  clouds  and  vapor  appeared;  trees, 
rocks,  in  fact  everything  seemed  unreal  and  ghost-like, 
enveloped  in  the  thick,  blue-gray  haze  that  penetrated 
clothing  and  sent  a  piercing  chill  to  the  very  marrow.  Dark- 
ness was  fast  approaching,  so  we  stopped  at  a  wayside  hut 
called  El  Tigre  for  the  night.  The  house  was  damp  and 
cold,  as  might  have  been  expected,  and  its  occupants  were 
practically  without  food.  A  profusion  of  vegetation  grew 
in  the  yard;  there  were  roses,  geraniums,  hibiscus,  and 


BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI  9 

hydrangeas  growing  everywhere;  monstrous  ferns  with 
lace-like  leaves  formed  a  thick,  velvety  background  for 
the  brilliant,  many-colored  blooms.  In  the  garden,  black- 
berries, strawberries,  cabbages,  coffee,  and  an  edible  tuber 
called  aracacha  grew;  there  were  also  a  few  stunted  banana 
and  plantain  stalks,  but  on  account  of  the  cold  climate  it 
requires  two  years  for  them  to  mature,  and  the  fruit  is  small 
and  of  poor  quality. 

Thanks  to  an  early  start  on  the  following  morning,  we 
reached  the  summit  of  the  range,  or  the  Cordillera  Occi- 
dental, as  it  is  better  known,  by  ten  o'clock.  The  whole 
slopes  are  covered  with  the  densest  of  subtropical  jungles. 
A  steady  downpour  had  fallen  the  entire  morning,  against 
which  ponchos  availed  little.  A  halt  of  two  hours  was  there- 
fore called  at  a  rather  cheerless  inn  just  beyond  the  pass, 
named  San  Antonio;  the  senora  who  conducted  the  estab- 
lishment was  glad  to  see  us,  for  Richardson  had  apprised 
her  of  our  coming;  she  soon  had  plantains  roasting  on  the 
,  embers,  and  her  shop  provided  sardines  for  lunch. 

The  descent  of  the  eastern  slope  now  began.  The  trail 
narrowed  down  and  was  rough;  in  places  the  decline  was 
45°.  On  both  sides  rose  the  living  walls  of  impenetrable, 
gloomy  jungle.  One  thing  could  not  fail  to  impress  us, 
and  that  was  the  great,  breathless  silence  of  the  forest. 
Where  we  had  expected  to  find  multitudes  of  gorgeous  birds, 
a  babble  of  animal  voices  and  brilliant  flowers,  there  was 
only  the  sombre,  silent  mass  of  unvaried  green.  Within 
two  hours  we  had  left  the  regions  of  cold  and  penetrating 
mists.  For  the  first  time  we  beheld  the  beautiful  valley 
of  the  Cauca  far  below,  spread  before  our  vision  like  a  velvet 
carpet  of  softest  green  that  reached  the  very  foot-hills  of 
the  Central  Range  not  less  than  forty  miles  distant. 

The  steady,  rhythmic  skuff  of  bare  or  sandal-shod  feet, 
mingled  with  the  louder  tramp  of  mules  and  discordant 
cries  of  the  arrieros,  now  reached  our  ears  at  frequent  inter- 
vals, to  be  followed  shortly  by  the  appearance  of  pack-trains 
heavily  laden  with  coffee  and  hides  as  they  swung  around 


10  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

a  bend  in  the  narrow  mountain  trail,  and  we  knew  that 
the  end  of  our  journey,  at  least  for  the  present,  was  near. 

Downward  we  rode,  always  downward,  with  the  valley 
still  several  hundreds  of  feet  below,  and  the  mountains 
towering  thousands  of  feet  in  the  rear. 

Here  and  there  a  bit  of  humanity  flashed  into  view  near 
one  of  the  lonely  haciendas  snugly  nestling  in  some  seem- 
ingly inaccessible  niche  in  the  mountainside.  To  our  right, 
a  solitary  monastery  perched  upon  a  barren  peak,  with  its 
separate  narrow  trail  leading  from  the  dizzy  height  and 
winding  its  tortuous  course  along  the  jutting  precipice  un- 
til lost  in  the  filmy  haze. 

Ahead,  a  black  mass  that  dissolved  itself  into  one  im- 
mense flock  of  vultures  appeared  on  the  landscape.  This 
was  their  season  of  harvest  and  the  quarrelsome  scavengers 
were  reluctant  to  leave  their  repast — an  unfortunate  burro 
that  had  been  abandoned  on  the  trail. 

With  a  feeling  of  repugnance,  we  spurred  our  horses  on 
to  greater  effort,  and  at  last  our  anticipations  were  realized 
as,  rounding  an  abrupt  point,  we  beheld  Cali  directly  at 
our  feet.  A  half -hour  later  we  had  clattered  through  a  green 
arch  formed  by  four  magnificent  ceibas  that  stood  like  sen- 
tinels guarding  the  approach  to  the  city,  crossed  the  bridge 
spanning  the  Rio  Cali,  wended  our  way  up  the  stone-paved 
streets,  and  drawn  rein  in  the  patio  of  the  Hotel  Central. 

Cali  is  a  typical  Colombian  city.  At  first  the  uniformly 
low,  whitewashed  buildings  with  barred  windows,  thick 
adobe  walls,  and  pretty  patios,  or  inner  courts,  thrust  them- 
selves forcibly  upon  the  attention,  on  account  of  the  sharp 
contrast  to  the  style  of  architecture  to  which  the  American 
is  accustomed;  but  later  one  accepts  them  as  a  matter  of 
course  quite  in  harmony  with  the  monotonous  and  easy- 
going life  of  most  Latin-American  cities. 

There  is  nothing  particularly  modern  about  Cali;  but 
the  city  is  interesting,  perhaps  for  that  very  reason.  I  saw 
not  a  single  chimney,  nor  was  there  a  pane  of  glass  any- 
where except  in  the  huge  cathedral  facing  the  verdure-laden 


BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI  11 

plaza.  Churches  are  numerous,  of  massive  construction, 
and  built  in  Spanish  style.  The  bells,  of  which  there  are 
many,  are  suspended  in  open  niches  in  the  towers,  covered 
with  verdigris,  and  keep  up  an  almost  continuous  clanging. 

The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked.  A  stream  of  water 
flows  through  the  centre  of  some  of  them;  this  serves  both 
purposes — as  a  kind  of  sewage  system  and  also  to  supply 
water  for  various  needs,  although  there  is  a  system  of  piping 
in  some  of  the  houses,  and  fountains  on  a  few  street  corners 
supply  drinking-water  to  those  who  care  to  fetch  it.  I 
have  seen,  on  several  occasions,  children  attempting  to 
bathe  in  the  little  stream;  a  short  distance  below,  ducks 
were  swimming  in  the  water;  then  a  person  stepping  from 
one  of  the  doorways  threw  a  pailful  of  garbage  into  it; 
finally,  some  one  stepped  out  and  unconcernedly  dipped  up 
a  pitcherful  of  the  water  and  took  it  indoors. 

It  is  quite  unusual  to  see  any  of  the  women  of  the  upper 
class  on  the  streets  during  the  daytime,  except  on  special 
occasions,  or  while  they  are  on  their  way  to  and  from  church. 
They  remain  secluded  in  their  homes,  safe  from  the  gaze 
of  vulgar  eyes.  Embroidering  and  music  are  the  chief  diver- 
sions, and  a  large  number  of  them  are  really  very  accom- 
plished in  both  lines.  It  was  remarkable  to  notice  how  many 
pianos  there  were,  when  we  consider  that  each  instrument 
had  to  be  brought  over  the  Andes  slung  on  poles  and  carried 
by  mules. 

Practically  all  work  is  performed  by  people  of  the  lower 
class.  They  toil  day  and  night  and,  in  most  instances,  for 
very  little  remuneration.  One  may  see  them  engaged  in 
various  occupations  at  all  hours  of  the  day;  but  during  the 
early  hours  of  the  morning,  long  files  wend  their  way  down 
the  streets  with  the  public  market-place  as  the  point  of 
focus.  The  huge  brick  structure  is  a  busy  place.  It  re- 
minds one  of  an  ants'  nest  with  its  incoming  and  departing 
swarms.  Inside  the  building  are  rows  and  heaps  of  fruit, 
vegetables,  meat,  bread,  and  many  other  articles.  A  motley 
crowd  of  women  fills  the  place  to  overflowing;  each  carries 


12  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

a  basket?  or  wooden  tray,  on  her  head  into  which  the  pur- 
chases are  placed,  when,  after  an  indefinite  amount  of  bar- 
gaining and  haggling,  they  have  been  consummated.  In- 
variably each  receptacle  contains  a  curious  collection;  a 
number  of  green  and  ripe  plantains;  a  slice  of  pumpkin; 
a  pepper,  garlic,  and  a  tomato;  a  chunk  of  meat,  and  a 
papaya.  Perhaps  there  may  also  be  a  bunch  of  yerba  buena 
and  some  achiote  seeds  with  which  to  give  a  spicy  flavor 
and  yellow  color  to  the  soup;  but  these  condiments  are, 
unfortunately,  used  in  such  quantities  that  a  goodly  supply 
is  usually  kept  on  hand  even  when  there  is  no  other  food 
in  the  house. 

The  nights  are  delightful  in  Cali.  A  refreshing  wind 
springs  up  soon  after  sundown;  the  military  band  plays 
in  the  plaza,  lights  twinkle  and  the  breeze  sighs  through 
the  royal  palms  and  orange-trees  scattering  broadcast  snowy 
petals  and  heavy  perfume.  Only  the  genie  are  admitted 
into  this  little  fairy-land.  Gayly  dressed  and  highly-rouged 
women,  clothed  in  the  extreme  of  fashion,  parade  along 
the  winding  walks;  but  it  is  considered  in  bad  taste  for 
them  to  appear  without  an  escort.  The  poorer  class,  ragged 
and  barefooted,  gathers  outside  the  iron  fence  and  peers 
through  the  bars;  the  children  run  and  play  noisily  on  the 
neighboring  streets.  At  last  the  bells  in  the  cathedral  boom 
the  hour  of  ten;  the  band  plays  the  national  anthem,  when 
every  one  stands,  the  men  with  uncovered  heads.  Then 
the  crowd  disperses  quietly  and  orderly.  Soon  the  town  is 
wrapped  in  slumber  with  only  the  sighing  wind  and  the 
occasional  shrill  blasts  of  police  whistles  to  disturb  the 
drowsy  solitude. 

It  was  said,  that  Cali  had  a  population  of  forty  thou- 
sand, but  that  figure  doubtless  included  the  populace  of 
the  suburban  districts  for  a  considerable  distance.  The 
city  is  bound  to  grow,  however,  on  account  of  its  favorable 
location  in  the  fertile  Cauca  Valley,  which  is  one  of  the 
garden  spots  of  all  South  America. 

The  Cauca  River  is  about  four  miles  distant  from  the 


BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI  13 

city,  and  the  settlement  of  Guanchito  is  located  on  the 
river-bank.  A  little  toy-like  train  makes  frequent  trips 
back  and  forth  between  the  two  points  because  the  puerto, 
as  Guanchito  is  commonly  called,  is  of  real  importance. 
Steamers  and  launches  from  Cartago  take  on  and  discharge 
passengers  and  freight,  and  many  rafts  laden  with  green 
plantains  and  produce  arrive  daily.  The  village  presents 
a  scene  of  great  activity  during  the  morning  hours;  clusters 
of  ragged  little  booths,  like  mushrooms,  have  sprung  up 
during  the  hours  of  darkness  where  women,  squatting  under 
the  shambling  shelters,  cook  sancocho  over  charcoal  braziers; 
files  of  peons  hurry  back  and  forth  as  they  transfer  the  car- 
goes from  rafts  and  canoes  to  the  waiting  freight-cars;  and 
there  is  a  great  deal  of  good-natured  raillery  between  the 
slovenly  mozos  who  liberally  patronize  the  eating  and  drink- 
ing places,  and  the  stand-keepers  who  feign  an  air  of  coyness 
withal.  Gradually,  as  the  sun  mounts  higher  the  crowds 
grow  thinner.  Their  morning's  work  over,  the  people  either 
depart  via  the  waterway  they  had  coirie,  or  take  the  train 
back  to  Cali. 

An  interesting  ferry  service  is  maintained  at  Guanchito. 
A  stout  steel  cable  has  been  strung  across  the  river,  and 
to  a  pulley  running  along  it,  two  chains  are  fastened,  their 
other  ends  being  tied  to  either  end  of  the  boat.  The  latter 
is  a  huge,  flat-bottomed  affair,  capable  of  holding  many 
people  and  horses.  Before  starting  across,  the  up-stream 
chain  is  shortened,  so  that  the  side  of  the  boat  presents  a 
sharp  angle  to  the  current,  and  the  craft  is  speedily  pushed 
to  the  other  side  of  the  river. 

Extensive  marshes  border  the  Cauca,  a  short  distance 
above  Guanchito.  During  the  rainy  season  the  water  spreads 
over  many  miles  of  land,  and  is  very  deep;  but  in  the  dry 
season  it  recedes  rapidly  leaving  a  number  of  shallow  and 
well-defined  marshes  and  ponds.  Wildfowl  gathers  in  great 
numbers  to  spend  the  hottest  months  in  these  friendly 
havens.  There  were  ducks  of  a  number  of  species,  includ- 
ing tree-ducks  that  make  a  shrill,  whistling  noise  as  they 


14  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

speed  by  and  then  drop  on  the  ground  near  the  marsh,  to 
stand  motionless  and  on  the  alert  for  possible  danger  be- 
fore plunging  into  the  water.  Great  gray  herons  croaked 
and  waded  sedately  among  the  rushes,  spearing  frogs  and 
fish  as  they  went  along.  The  horned  screamer — a  bird  the 
size  of  a  large  turkey — is  also  an  inhabitant  of  the  marshes. 
It  has  rather  long,  but  thick  legs,  that  enable  it  to  wade 
into  fairly  deep  water,  but  also  swims  to  floating  islands 
of  succulent  water-plants  which  form  a  part  of  its  food. 
The  bird's  color  is  slaty  black,  the  back  being  glossy;  the 
belly  is  white;  a  horn,  or  caruncle,  several  inches  long  grows 
from  the  forehead  and  curves  forward.  The  feathers  are 
soft,  and  the  tissues  for  half  an  inch  under  the  skin  are  filled 
with  air  spaces;  the  natives  say  that  this  protects  the  bird 
from  the  bites  of  poisonous  snakes,  and  it  is  not  impossible 
that  this  pneumatic  cushion  could  serve  such  a  purpose, 
although  it  is  hardly  probable.  The  most  remarkable  thing 
about  the  bird,  however,  is  its  voice.  Usually  a  pair  sing 
together;  they  walk  slowly  back  and  forth,  throw  the  head 
over  the  back,  and  emit  powerful  hoots,  booms,  and  long- 
drawn,  clear,  ringing  notes  that,  while  harmonious  and  not 
unmusical,  are  nevertheless  touched  with  pathos  and  con- 
jure in  one's  imagination  a  picture  of  some  trammelled  spirit 
of  the  wild  yearning  for  redemption.  Numerous  small 
birds,  mainly  tyrant-flycatchers  inhabit  the  thorny  thickets 
growing  out  of  the  water,  and  build  their  huge  grass  nests 
within  the  safe  barrier  of  thorn-armed  branches. 

The  surrounding  country  of  the  Cauca  Valley  is  fertile 
and  productive  of  most  of  the  things  essential  to  the  sup- 
port of  a  contented  and  thriving  populace.  A  great  deal 
of  the  land  is  used  for  grazing  cattle  and  horses,  but  it  will 
soon  become  too  valuable  to  use  for  this  purpose  on  ac- 
count of  the  limited  amount  available.  A  far  greater  revenue 
can  be  derived  through  cultivation. 

We  paid  a  visit  to  a  large  sugar  estate  called  La  Manuelita, 
near  the  town  of  Palmira.  La  Manuelita  is  a  little  world 
of  its  own;  it  comprises  fifteen  hundred  acres  of  the  most 


Cattle  grazing  in  the  Cauca  Valley. 


Port  of  Guanchito. 


BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI  15 

fertile  and  attractive  part  of  the  valley.  The  ranch-house, 
occupying  a  site  in  the  centre,  is  a  rambling  two-story  build- 
ing of  generous  proportions  and  attractive  appearance. 
The  gardens,  surrounding  it  with  a  riot  of  color,  give  it  a 
quaint,  old-fashioned  charm;  there  has  been  no  studied 
effect,  no  precision  in  the  arrangement  of  plants  Or  flowers; 
oleanders,  roses,  hibiscus,  geraniums,  and  hollyhocks  grow 
in  matted  profusion.  Clumps  of  magnolias,  chinaberries 
and  oranges  conceal  the  high  stone  fence.  Immediately 
without  the  wall  surrounding  the  house  is  the  peon  village 
consisting  of  some  fifty-odd  houses  of  uniform  size  and  ap- 
pearance, and  the  sugar-factory.  The  peons  are  of  Spanish, 
Indian,  and  negro  blood,  or  of  a  mixture  of  any  two  or  all 
three,  and  require  constant  supervision  to  secure  the  best 
results. 

All  the  land  is  under  cultivation,  mostly  in  cane,  for  the 
production  of  which  it  is  well  suited.  The  soil  is  a  rich  al- 
luvial loam.  Some  of  the  cane-fields  at  La  Manuelita  had 
not  been  replanted  in  ninety  years;  others  on  the  estate  of 
William  Barney,  former  United  States  consul  in  Cali,  had 
been  producing  one  hundred  and  twenty  years,  and  were  still 
yielding  eighty  tons  or  more  of  cane  to  the  acre.  It  was 
said,  and  all  indications  substantiate  the  report,  that  the 
entire  region  was  at  one  time  covered  by  a  great  lake !  This 
accounts  for  the  continued  productiveness  of  the  soil. 

Cane  grows  to  a  height  of  fifteen  feet,  there  being  a  dozen 
or  more  stalks  to  each  hill.  It  requires  eight  to  ten  months 
to  mature.  The  fields  are  divided  into  sections  and  cut  at 
different  intervals  so  as  to  provide  a  succession  of  ripe  cane 
for  the  mill,  and  furnish  steady  employment  for  the  several 
hundred  peons. 

The  factory  is  modern  in  nearly  every  respect;  its  ca- 
pacity is  from  five  to  eight  tons  of  sugar  daily,  of  good 
quality.  It  required  a  number  of  years  to  bring  the  heavy 
machinery  over  the  mountains  from  Buenaventura.  The 
more  cumbersome  pieces  were  slowly  drawn  up  the  steep 
slopes  with  the  aid  of  block  and  tackle  and  oxen;  the  ap- 


16  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

paratus  was  so  arranged  that  the  animals  could  walk  down- 
hill as  they  pulled,  adding  greatly  to  their  efficiency.  It  is 
necessary  to  carry  a  complete  stock  of  duplicate  machinery 
to  use  in  case  of  an  accident;  otherwise  the  factory  might 
have  to  shut  down  a  year  or  two  while  some  badly  needed 
article  was  being  secured  from  abroad. 

Nearly  all  machinery  is  ordered  from  London,  as  it  can 
be  had  more  quickly  and  better  packed  than  from  the  United 
States.  I  heard  this  same  statement  in  various  parts  of 
South  America.  Although  manufacturers  were  beginning 
to  realize  that  in  order  to  do  business  successfully  in  South 
America,  they  must  first  make  a  study  of  general  condi- 
tions, they  have  not  done  so  in  the  past,  with  the  natural 
result  that  the  bulk  of  Latin- American  commerce  has  been 
done  with  the  Old  World.  It  is  frequently  necessary  to 
ship  merchandise  on  mule-back,  or  in  small  river-craft  a 
distance  of  many  days  after  its  arrival  at  a  port  and  before 
it  reaches  its  destination;  it  is  exposed  to  varying  weather 
conditions — great  heat  and  heavy  rains;  the  treatment  it 
receives  is  of  necessity  very  rough.  All  this  means  that 
packing  must  have  been  done  with  great  care  and  in  a  special 
manner.  The  fact  that  we  have  not  adopted  the  metric 
system,  and  that  there  have  been  practically  no  American 
banks  to  discount  bills,  have  been  further  drawbacks  to 
the  establishment  of  extensive  trade  relations  between  the 
two  peoples. 

Perhaps  the  most  attractive  thing  of  all  about  the  Cauca 
Valley  is  its  climate.  A  record  of  the  temperature  kept  at 
La  Manuelita  during  a  period  of  ten  years  shows  the  greatest 
uniformity.  The  difference  in  the  average  weekly  tem- 
perature is  only  6°  the  year  around. 

A  belt  of  tall  bamboo  entirely  surrounds  the  hacienda; 
the  giant  stalks  of  steel-like  toughness  are  armed  with  long, 
murderous  thorns  and  form  an  interlocking  mass  that  is 
absolutely  impenetrable  to  man.  Contrary  to  our  expecta- 
tions, birds  were  not  plentiful  in  this  land  of  tangled  ver- 
dure. A  few  nighthawks  dozed  on  the  ground  in  the  deep 


BUENAVENTURA  TO  CALI  17 

shade,  and  an  occasional  yellow-headed  caracara  (Milvago 
chimachima)  that,  perched  on  the  tip  of  a  swaying  stalk, 
gave  vent  to  its  feelings  in  a  succession  of  shrill,  long- 
drawn  screams. 

Farther  away,  where  clumps  of  woods  grew,  birds  were 
more  plentiful.  There  were  many  red-fronted  parrakeets 
nesting  in  holes  in  dead  stubs.  Red-headed  woodpeckers 
(Chrysoptilus  p.  striatigularis)  in  numbers  hammered  on 
hollow  trunks;  the  strokes  are  so  rapid  that  the  sound  re- 
sembles the  roll  of  a  snare-drum.  Pigmy  woodpeckers 
(Picumnus)  no  larger  than  a  good-sized  humming-bird, 
worked  industriously  on  the  smaller  branches.  They  are 
obscurely  marked  mites  of  feathered  energy,  of  a  dark  olive 
color  with  a  few  red  dots  on  top  of  the  blackish  head.  When 
the  nesting  season  arrives  a  tiny  cavity  is  excavated  in  some 
partially  decayed  limb  in  which  two  round,  white  eggs  are 
deposited.  These  birds  are  nearly  always  found  in  pairs, 
and  when  the  young  leave  the  nest  they  accompany  the 
parents,  forming  small  family  parties  that  forage  for  minute 
insects  among  the  crevices  of  rough  bark  and  in  decayed 
wood. 

Occasionally  it  seemed  as  if  we  were  not  so  far  from  our 
northern  home  after  all;  for  along  the  edges  of  the  numerous 
marshes  ran  an  old  acquaintance — the  spotted  sandpiper. 
In  the  reeds  yellow-headed  blackbirds  chirped  and  fluttered; 
but  they  are  slightly  smaller  than  the  North  American  birds 
and  have  even  been  placed  in  a  different  genus  (Agelaius). 
By  walking  quietly  it  was  also  possible  to  surprise  a  deer 
that  had  been  tempted  far  from  cover  by  the  prospects  of  a 
luscious  breakfast  in  some  little  plantation.  These  animals 
are  so  greatly  persecuted  that  they  make  off  at  the  first 
sign  of  danger. 


CHAPTER  II 
POPAYAN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE 

AFTER  spending  a  few  weeks  in  and  about  the  Cauca 
Valley,  Richardson  and  I  started  southward,  while  the  two 
other  members  of  the  expedition  began  the  homeward 
journey.  I  had  looked  forward  very  eagerly  to  my  visit 
to  southern  Colombia  because  I  knew  that  the  country, 
towns,  and  even  the  people  were  different  from  those  we 
had  seen  heretofore.  But,  above  all,  because  ahead  of  us 
lay  a  vast  region  little  known  zoologically,  and  we  hoped 
to  penetrate  into  at  least  the  mountain  fastnesses  west  of 
Popaydn  in  our  insatiable  search  for  the  rare  and  interest- 
ing wild  life  that  haunted  that  remote  wilderness. 

We  left  Cali  at  noon,  May  13,  well  provided  with  riding 
and  pack  animals,  and  half-breed  arrieros,  and  started  on 
the  well-beaten  trail  that  leads  toward  the  south. 

At  first  there  was  no  appreciable  change  in  the  valley, 
but  by  degrees  the  stretches  of  absolutely  level-appearing 
land  increased  in  size;  instead  of  extensive  cultivated  areas 
there  were  pastures  of  large  size,  covered  with  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  grass.  Thousands  of  head  of  cattle  were  sprin- 
kled over  the  velvety  turf.  We  rode  an  hour  through  one 
of  these  ranches  just  before  reaching  the  river  Jamundi. 
This  estate  is  the  property  of  one  Angel  Mario  Borreo,  who 
is  reported  to  be  one  of  the  most  influential  men  in  the  De- 
partment of  Cauca,  and  is  only  one  of  his  "sixteen  similar 
holdings. 

The  Jamundi  is  not  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide 
at  the  point  of  crossing,  and  is  spanned  by  a  steel  and  brick 
bridge;  dense  jungles  of  bamboo  line  both  banks.  Just  be- 
yond lies  the  little  town  bearing  the  same  name. 

18 


POPAYAN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE          19 

A  tent-show  had  been  billed  to  appear  here  at  some  time 
within  the  near  future,  and  the  arrival  of  our  pack-train 
was  mistaken  for  that  eagerly  awaited  event.  The  news 
spread  rapidly  and  before  long  the  populace  had  turned  out 
en  masse  in  the  hope  of  getting  a  glimpse  at  the  wonders 
our  trunks  and  duffel-bags  were  supposed  to  contain.  Not 
until  we  had  taken  refuge  in  the  little  posada  or  inn  could 
they  be  convinced  of  their  error  and  induced  to  return  to 
their  homes;  but  another  surprise  was  in  store  for  us. 

The  many  and  enervating  tasks  of  the  day  called  for  our 
early  retirement,  and  eight  o'clock  found  us  in  our  cots. 
Great  was  our  surprise  to  be  awakened  an  hour  later  by 
the  sound  of  music  at  our  very  door.  One  of  our  men 
was  sent  to  the  door  to  learn  the  cause  of  the  serenade 
and  was  told  that  the  mayor  of  the  town,  with  a  delega- 
tion of  the  chief  officials  and  the  band,  had  come  to  pay 
us  a  visit.  Of  course,  there  was  but  one  thing  to  do,  and 
half  an  hour  later  found  us  out  on  the  special  seats  that 
had  been  prepared,  in  full  view  of  the  visitors  and  perhaps 
half  of  the  villagers  who  had  accompanied  them.  Then 
followed  speeches,  singing,  music,  and  a  few  native  dances, 
interspersed  with  short  intervals  for  smoking,  drinking  (a 
goodly  supply  of  aguardiente  had  been  brought  along),  and 
conversation.  The  visitors  remained  until  one  in  the  morn- 
ing; a  rather  lengthy  call,  to  be  sure,  but  a  pleasant  one,  and 
quite  characteristic  of  the  friendliness  of  the  Colombians. 

The  next  day's  ride  of  ten  hours'  duration  brought  us  to 
Buenos  Aires,  a  very  pretty  little  town  nestling  among  and 
almost  obscured  by  gardens  of  flowers  and  orchards  of 
fruit. 

A  heavy  rain  during  the  night  had  filled  all  the  sink-holes 
in  the  road  with  water,  making  progress  slow  on  the  follow- 
ing day.  We  rounded  Mount  Saint  Ignacio  early  in  the 
morning,  and  shortly  after  had  our  first  view  of  the  vol- 
cano Purace;  we  were  to  learn  more  of  this  mountain  in  the 
not  distant  future.  Soon  after,  the  lomas  or  great  barren 
hills  appeared;  they  form  a  kind  of  connecting-link  between 


20  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

the  Coast  and  Central  Ranges.  These  gently  rounded 
mounds  are  bare  except  for  a  kind  of  worthless,  wiry  grass 
that  in  some  unaccountable  way  draws  enough  sustenance 
from  the  red-clay  soil  to  maintain  its  meagre  growth. 
These  hills  gradually  increase  in  height,  but  the  ascent  is 
by  such  slow  degrees  that  one  is  scarcely  conscious  of  any 
rise  at  all.  There  are  few  houses,  and  the  small  number  of 
inhabitants  seem  to  be  as  sallow  and  lifeless  as  the  hills 
themselves.  A  party  of  people  had  gathered  at  one  of 
the  Philippine-like  structures  near  the  roadside;  they  were 
chatting  excitedly  and  drinking  a  good  deal  of  chicha. 
When  we  dismounted  we  found  that  a  child  had  died  and 
was  being  prepared  for  burial.  It  sat  propped  up  in  a 
small,  rudely  made  chair,  covered  with  a  piece  of  white 
cloth.  No  one  seemed  greatly  concerned  over  the  death, 
least  of  all  the  parents;  on  the  contrary,  they  were  proud 
of  the  angelito,  and  of  the  attention  the  event  attracted 
from  the  people  of  the  neighboring  country. 

In  perfect  accord  with  our  expectations,  there  was  little 
bird-life  on  the  cheerless  lomas.  A  few  blue  tanagers  and 
Veinte-vi  flycatchers  (Pitangus)  lived  in  the  bushes  that 
lined  the  infrequent  rivulets  trickling  through  narrow  gul- 
lies between  the  hills.  The  Veinte-vi  was  an  old  acquain- 
tance; its  cheery  call  is  one  of  the  first  bird-notes  to  greet 
the  ear  of  the  visitor  to  tropical  South  America.  Its  local 
name  varies  with  the  locality,  and  is  an  attempt  by  the  na- 
tives to  imitate  the  bird's  cry.  Thus  it  ranges  from  Kiss- 
ka-dee  and  Veinte-vi  to  Dios  te  di  and  Christi  fui.  This  fly- 
catcher is  of  a  rather  vivacious  disposition,  and  pairs  of 
them  frequently  may  be  seen  singing  together  and  beating 
their  wings  on  the  branches. 

As  a  general  rule  these  birds  are  of  peaceful  habits,  ex- 
cept when  nesting;  but  I  have  frequently  seen  them  in  pur- 
suit of  a  carrion  hawk  at  which  they  darted  viciously  and 
continued  to  follow  until  lost  to  view. 

The  diet  of  the  Veinte-vi  is  varied,  and  the  bird  is  most 
versatile  in  capturing  its  prey.  Thus  it  will  sit  on  a  perch 


POPAYAN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE          21 

above  a  brook  and  plunge  in  after  small  fish  or  tadpoles, 
somewhat  in  the  manner  of  a  kingfisher;  it  may  hover  over 
a  field  and  drop  upon  an  unsuspicious  mouse,  lizard,  or 
small  snake;  beetles,  grasshoppers,  and  other  insects  are 
overtaken  and  captured  on  the  wing.  When  a  victim  of 
some  size  has  been  captured,  it  is  beaten  rapidly  upon  a 
branch  until  its  life  is  hammered  out.  It  also  hops  about 
in  fields  looking  for  worms  and  grubs. 

The  nest  is  a  huge  domed  structure,  made  of  grasses  and 
often  wool,  and  placed  in  the  branches  of  a  tree  six  to  fif- 
teen feet  up.  Entrance  is  gained  through  an  opening  in 
one  side,  near  the  top.  On  account  of  the  great  size  of  the 
structure,  being  about  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  high  and 
eight  to  ten  inches  thick,  it  is  very  conspicuous;  the  exterior 
is  carelessly  made,  with  grasses  and  streamers  of  nesting 
material  hanging  down  on  all  sides. 

The  eggs,  two  to  five  in  number,  although  four  seem  to 
constitute  the  usual  set,  are  long  and  pointed,  cream- 
colored,  and  lightly  spotted  with  chocolate-brown  and  pur- 
ple blotches — mostly  on  the  larger  end. 

Besides  these  species,  there  were  ground-doves,  lapwings, 
and  an  occasional  sparrow-hawk.  The  latter  is  so  similar 
to  our  common  little  terror  of  the  air  that  it  is  hard  to  dis- 
tinguish between  the  two. 

Shortly  after  noon  we  encountered  one  of  the  most  ter- 
rific tropical  storms  imaginable.  Hour  after  hour  a  perfect 
deluge  of  rain  poured  down  upon  us  from  which  rubber 
ponchos  afforded  little  protection.  Flashes  of  lightning 
pierced  the  semiblackness  with  blinding  shafts  of  light, 
followed  by  deafening  crashes  of  thunder — an  indication 
that  we  were  approaching  the  high  zone  of  bleak  mountain 
slopes  and  paramos. 

That  night  we  reached  Morales,  at  an  elevation  of  five 
thousand  nine  hundred  feet.  Fortunately  there  was  no 
demonstration  of  any  kind  to  interfere  with  our  much- 
needed  rest.  Early  the  next  morning,  however,  we  experi- 
enced the  thrill  inseparably  linked  with  the  sudden  display 


22  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

of  one  of  those  hidden  forces  of  nature  that  forever  and  in- 
alterably  control  our  destiny. 

From  out  of  the  gray  and  penetrating  mist  that  seemed 
to  envelop  all  the  world  there  rose  a  low,  ominous  rumbling, 
distant,  yet  of  thunderous  volume;  and  the  mud-walled, 
grass-thatched  inn  shuddered  violently  in  unison  with  the 
trembling  earth. 

Through  the  open  door  of  the  adjoining  room  I  heard 
the  scratching  of  matches  and  saw  the  flicker  of  yellow 
light  reflected  on  the  whitewashed  wall.  A  moment  later 
the  pious  senora,  surrounded  by  her  little  ones,  was  kneel- 
ing before  the  shrine  of  the  Virgin,  chanting  a  litany  in 
low,  monotonous  tones.  Two  tapers  flickered  hazily.  The 
gaudy  tinsel  flowers  that  decked  the  image  gleamed  in  the 
uncertain  light,  but  the  pitiful  squalor,  ignorance,  and  gen- 
eral misery  of  the  surroundings  were  mercifully  left  in  dark- 
ness. 

Without,  all  was  silent,  save  for  the  barking  of  a  pack 
of  stray  mongrels  which  had  been  asleep  on  the  door-steps  of 
Morales.  The  village  again  slumbered,  and  the  chill,  damp 
fog  clung  to  the  earth. 

Alone  I  made  my  way  up  the  only  street,  through  the 
mud,  to  the  eminence  on  which  the  adobe  church  stands, 
overlooking  the  valley  and  affording  a  view  of  the  tremen- 
dous range  on  each  side;  for  it  was  nearly  the  hour  of  day- 
break and  the  sun  rising  above  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  Andes 
presents  a  scene  of  matchless  beauty. 

With  the  first  faint  glow  of  light  in  the  east  the  banks  of 
vapor  became  dissipated  and  gradually  disappeared.  Peak 
after  peak  reared  its  head  above  the  ocean  of  snowy  white- 
ness. First  of  all  was  Purace,  the  hoary  monarch  that 
dominates  the  southern  part  of  the  Cordillera  Central  and 
spreads  terror  through  the  land  with  threats  and  warnings 
similar  to  those  we  had  just  experienced.  This  great  vol- 
cano has  been  active  for  untold  ages.  A  huge  column  of 
smoke  and  vapor  ascends  continually  straight  into  the 
clouds,  and  this,  reflecting  the  light  of  the  rising  sun,  makes 


POPAYAN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE          23 

a  magnificent  picture.  Occasionally  at  night  the  eternal 
fires  within  the  gaping  crater  may  be  seen  tinting  the  low- 
hanging  clouds  and  the  snow  that  crowns  the  summit,  four- 
teen thousand  five  hundred  feet  high,  with  rosy  red.  All 
about,  the  great  barren  lomas  are  strewn  with  black  boul- 
ders, some  of  immense  size,  that  serve  to  remind  the  way- 
farer of  the  cataclysms  of  bygone  ages.  Everywhere  they 
dot  the  hillsides  and  tower  above  the  trail  that  winds  among 
them. 

Just  below  rises  the  silent  mass  of  Sotara,  crowned  with 
the  snow  of  centuries;  the  precipitous  slopes  are  seamed 
and  worn  by  the  frequent  slides  of  ice  and  stones  from 
above,  and  deep,  snow-filled  gashes  extend  far  down  be- 
low the  glittering  dome  in  a  ragged  fringe.  At  night  the 
moonlight  steals  softly  up  the  frigid  heights  and  reverently 
bathes  the  ancient  head  in  a  halo  of  dazzling  splendor. 

As  the  sun  mounted  higher  and  higher  the  peaks  of  the 
Western  Range  appeared  one  by  one,  like  islands  in  mid- 
ocean,  led  by  the  awe-inspiring  Munchique  and  followed 
by  his  lesser  satellites.  Between  the  two  ranges,  in  the 
fruitful  valley  of  the  Cauca,  Popayan  still  slumbered  be- 
neath a  blanket  of  billowy  softness. 

By  six  o'clock  the  arrieros  had  corralled  the  mules  and 
riding-horses,  and  half  an  hour  later  we  were  on  the 
march. 

Replacing  the  dry  and  barren  lomas,  we  now  found  a 
bush-covered  country  with  occasional  long  strips  of  low 
forest  in  the  hollows;  but  the  trail  was  an  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult one,  owing  to  the  rocky  nature  of  the  country  and  the 
great  boulders  that  obstruct  the  way.  Frequently  a  small 
stream  had  to  be  crossed,  such  as  the  Rio  Piendano,  which 
is  spanned  by  an  arched  bridge  built  of  large,  hand-made 
bricks,  a  curious  relic  of  olden  Spanish  days.  Down  goes 
the  trail  five  hundred  feet  or  more  at  an  angle  of  forty-five 
degrees,  and  then  up  again  on  the  other  side,  the  mules 
snorting  and  puffing  as  they  creep  along  at  a  snail's  pace. 
All  the  rivers  seem  to  flow  through  deep  gorges.  Only  sure- 


24  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

footed  mules  are  of  service  on  this  trail,  each  carrying  not 
more  than  two  hundred  pounds. 

The  distance  from  Morales  to  Popayan  is  not  great; 
without  cargo-mules  it  is  an  easy  day's  ride,  but  with  a 
caravan  of  tired,  heavily  laden  animals  that  have  come  all 
the  way  from  Cali  it  is  the  part  of  wisdom  to  spend  the 
night  at  the  little  posada  La  Venta  and  ride  into  the  city 
early  the  next  morning.  Here  a  room  and  a  good  meal 
can  usually  be  had  on  short  notice,  but  one  must  carry  his 
own  cot  and  bedding,  as  luxuries  of  this  kind  are  not  fur- 
nished in  Colombian  inns  except  in  the  larger  cities. 

We  were  up  and  on  our  way  early  the  next  morning,  for 
it  was  market-day — the  day  when  the  inhabitants  from 
miles  around  flock  to  the  city  to  buy  and  sell  and  to  have  a 
good  time  generally.  It  was  our  first  visit  and  we  could 
not  afford  to  miss  such  an  interesting  and  typical  sight. 

While  still  several  miles  distant  from  Popayan  we  began 
to  meet  small  parties  of  Indians  that  dotted  the  trail, 
slowly  wending  their  way  toward  the  Mecca  of  the  Upper 
Cauca.  By  the  time  we  had  reached  Belen,  a  settlement 
of  about  twenty  houses,  the  trail  had  widened  into  a  beau- 
tiful thoroughfare  and  was  crowded  with  oncoming  hordes. 
These  Indians  are  probably  descendants  of  the  ancient 
Guanacas,  while  some  are  doubtless  the  offspring  of  the 
tribe  of  Paeces  which  inhabits  the  Cordillera  Central  to  the 
north.  Many,  no  doubt,  still  preserve  the  original  purity  of 
the  old  stock,  but  the  vast  majority  have  mingled  and  in- 
termarried with  the  native  Colombians  until  one  finds  every 
possible  stage  of  intergradation. 

Before  us  passed  the  motliest  crowd  imaginable,  each 
bearing  the  fruit  of  his  toil,  to  be  appraised  and  sold  in  the 
public  plaza.  There  were  small  family  parties,  the  man 
leading  a  decrepit  mule  that  threatened  to  collapse  at  every 
step,  laden  with  fruit  and  vegetables,  fire-wood,  hemp  ropes 
and  bags,  calabashes,  pottery,  or  any  one  of  a  hundred  dif- 
ferent things.  The  wife,  acting  as  auxiliary  beast  of  bur- 
den, carried  the  surplus.  A  band  passed  over  the  forehead 


POPAYAN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE          25 

supported  the  heavy  pack;  usually  a  small  child  was  car- 
ried in  a  sling  at  her  side,  while  several  larger  children  clung 
to  her  skirt  or  trudged  behind.  As  she  walked  she  worked, 
spinning  from  a  bunch  of  wool  or  cotton  tucked  under  her 
arm,  the  spindle,  a  sharpened  stick  with  a  potato  stuck  on 
the  end,  dangling  from  her  hands.  The  most  characteristic 
occupation  of  the  women  is  the  making  of  small  fibre  bags, 
or  muchilas,  from  hempen  cord.  They  are  meshed  entirely 
by  hand  as  the  overburdened  worker  trots  along,  and  when 
completed  somewhat  resemble  a  lady's  shopping-bag.  If 
the  meshes  are  close  it  requires  weeks  to  finish  one  which 
would  fetch  forty  or  fifty  cents. 

The  men  are  dressed  in  loose  white-cotton  trousers  that 
come  below  the  knee;  then  there  is  the  inevitable  square  of 
homespun  woollen  cloth,  usually  brownish,  gray,  or  blue, 
called  ruana;  the  head  is  thrust  through  a  hole  in  the  cen- 
tre so  that  it  drapes  down  to  the  waist,  the  corners  often 
touching  the  ground  and  giving  the  same  effect  as  the  toga 
of  a  Roman  senator.  At  night  the  ruana  takes  the  place 
of  a  blanket  under  which  the  whole  family  sleeps.  .A  broad- 
brimmed,  high-crowned  straw  hat  completes  the  outfit. 
The  women  are  fond  of  dark-blue  skirts  (also  the  product 
of  their  industry),  pink  waists,  and  shawls  of  almost  any 
color  so  long  as  they  have  fringes.  Their  hats  are  similar 
to  those  worn  by  the  men.  The  feet  of  both  sexes  are,  of 
course,  bare. 

Half  an  hour  after  leaving  Belen  we  were  cantering  across 
the  great  brick  bridge  that  spans  the  Cauca  and  forms  the 
entrance  to  Popayan.  This  bridge  is  really  a  marvel  of 
ancient  Spanish  architecture,  five  hundred  feet  long,  forty 
feet  wide,  and  supported  by  a  series  of  arches. 

Popayan  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  picturesque  of 
Spanish-American  cities,  though  by  no  means  the  largest. 
I  doubt  if  its  population  exceeds  ten  thousand.  The  early 
history  of  the  city  is  full  of  interest,  and  from  it  one  gains 
an  insight  into  the  conditions  attendant  upon  the  conquest 
and  colonization  of  a  large  part  of  South  Ajnerica.  Spurred 


26  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

on  by  the  love  of  adventure  and  the  lust  for  treasure,  the 
Conquistador es  overran  vast  portions  of  the  continent,  estab- 
lishing depots  here  and  there  from  which  they  could  start 
anew  in  search  of  El  Dorado,  which  they  were  destined 
never  to  find.  In  this  manner  Popayan  was  founded  in 
the  year  1536  by  Sebastian  de  Belalcazar,  the  son  of  a  peas- 
ant from  the  border  of  Estremadura  and  Andalusia,  in  the 
south  of  Spain. 

After  founding  Popayan,  Belalcazar  extended  his  raids 
down  the  river  and  formed  the  settlement  which  to-day  is 
Cali,  the  largest  and  most  important  city  in  the  Cauca. 
Being  a  fair  example  of  the  usual  type  of  Conquistador,  he 
showed  no  mercy  toward  the  Indians,  but  nearly  exter- 
minated them;  the  country  which  had  been  a  fruitful  prov- 
ince was  turned  into  a  famine-stricken  waste.  In  the 
meantime  Pizarro  had  sent  an  officer,  Lorenzo  de  Aldana, 
to  arrest  his  erstwhile  lieutenant;  but  Belalcazar,  satisfied 
with  his  conquests,  set  sail  for  Spain  in  1539  for  the  pur- 
pose of  securing  a  charter  before  he  could  be  apprehended. 

The  city  lies  high  up  on  the  level  plain,  more  than  six 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  rugged  peaks, 
some  snow-capped,  others  unbridled  as  yet  by  the  hand  of 
time,  presaging  catastrophe  and  disaster;  and  still  others 
covered  with  impenetrable  growths  of  virgin  forest,  un- 
trodden by  human  foot,  and  known  only  to  the  wild  crea- 
tures that  lurk  within  the  dark  recesses.  Above  all  hang 
the  fleecy  clouds  that  encircle  the  lofty  pinnacles,  dip  low 
to  meet  the  earth,  and  then  vanish  again  into  space.  About 
the  city  prevails  an  air  of  calm  repose;  an  air  of  sanctity 
and  mysticism  that  radiates  into  every  nook  and  corner, 
permeating  every  fibre.  The  city  is  famous  as  a  centre  of 
learning.  Its  colleges  and  university,  conducted  by  the 
Order  of  Maristas,  attract  the  youths  from  all  parts  of  the 
country.  There  are  numerous  old  churches,  all  very  an- 
cient, the  gilded  interiors  rankling  with  the  damp  of  untold 
years.  Bells  of  antique  workmanship,  and  covered  with 
verdigris,  dangle  in  open  niches  in  the  walls  or  in  the  low, 


POPAYAN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE          27 

square  towers,  and  hourly  call  the  faithful  to  prayer  in 
monotonous  cadence.  The  cathedral  was  completed  in 
1752  after  many  years'  work.  In  one  of  the  streets  a  de- 
lightful view  may  be  had  of  three  successive  chapels,  one 
above  the  other,  and  of  the  streams  of  pious  penitents 
wending  their  way  up  the  rocky  path.  There  are  also  the 
overgrown  ruins  of  a  house  of  worship,  but  I  could  never 
quite  decide  whether  the  edifice  had  fallen  into  decay  or 
whether  the  medley  piles  of  bricks  and  rubbish  between 
the  four  crumbling  walls  were  still  waiting  to  be  placed  in 
position.  The  streets,  crooked  and  narrow,  are  paved  with 
cobblestones.  The  buildings  are  of  the  old  adobe  type, 
one-story  and  whitewashed,  with  red-tile  or  sod  roofs. 
Glass  is  not  used  except  in  the  churches,  but  the  windows 
are  heavily  barred.  Recently  a  few  modern  brick  struc- 
tures have  been  erected.  A  look  into  the  corridors  and 
inner  courts,  of  which  there  may  be  several  in  one  house, 
conveys  an  insight  into  the  domestic  life  of  the  people. 
The  front  courts  are  very  attractive  with  their  flowers, 
shrubbery,  and  trees,  but  the  rear  ones  are  anything  but 
inviting,  the  dungeon-like  enclosures  reminding  one  of  the 
stories  of  atrocities  and  persecutions  carried  on  here  in  the 
turbulent  times  of  the  Spanish  Inquisition. 

On  an  average,  the  people  are  of  a  higher  class,  both  in- 
tellectually and  physically,  than  in  most  Colombian  cities 
of  equal  size;  comparatively  few  negroes  are  seen,  and  the 
good  health  and  bright  looks  of  the  inhabitants  are  the 
natural  result  of  a  cool  climate  and  pure  mountain  air. 

One  day,  at  noon,  as  I  was  photographing  in  the  vicinity 
of  Popayan,  after  having  ridden  perhaps  five  or  six  miles 
from  the  city,  I  was  accosted  by  an  elderly  woman  who 
invited  me  to  stop  at  her  humble  cabin,  where  she  had  pre- 
pared a  really  palatable  lunch.  Her  reason  for  doing  this 
was  that  she  had  recognized  me  as  a  foreigner.  During  the 
course  of  the  meal  she  tearfully  related  that  she  had  had 
a  son,  of  about  my  own  age,  who  had  gone  to  the  States 
many  years  before.  Had  I  met  him,  and  could  I  give  her 


28  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

any  tidings?  I  could  have,  but  I  did  not.  By  a  strange 
and  inexplicable  coincidence  I  knew  that  her  son  had  not 
left  the  country.  Instead  of  going  to  the  coast  he  had 
engaged  in  one  of  the  revolutions  common  enough  at  that 
time  and  had  been  captured  and  shot;  but  what  right  had 
I  to  remove  the  only  support  that  maintained  the  spark  of 
life  in  her  aged  body?  It  was  only  the  hope  of  seeing  her 
boy  again  that  gave  her  the  strength  to  resist  the  onslaught 
of  advancing  years.  Doubtless,  she  still  waits,  hoping 
against  hope  for  the  message  that  will  never  come.  Hers 
is  the  mother-love  that  never  despairs.  How  clearly  it 
shows  that  human  nature  is  very  much  the  same  the  world 
over,  even  among  the  lowly ! 

On  June  23  I  was  fortunate  enough,  while  in  Popaydn,  to 
behold  one  of  the  religious  celebrations  formerly  all  too  nu- 
merous in  Latin  America.  It  was  the  Fiesta  del  Sagrado 
Corazdn  de  Jesus.  Troops  of  soldiers  and  bands  were  lined 
up  in  front  of  the  cathedral;  all  were  quiet  and  orderly 
while  the  sacred  rites  were  being  performed  within.  Sud- 
denly the  doors  burst  open,  bells  boomed  and  jingled,  and 
the  contents  of  the  vast  church  poured  through  the  portals 
in  a  steady  stream.  First  came  the  altar-boys  in  white 
surplices  and  red  cassocks,  carrying  gilded  crosses  on  long 
poles  and  lighted  tapers  in  silver  holders,  followed  by  the 
small  children,  the  girls  with  tinsel  wings,  resembling  tiny 
angels.  Then  came  the  governor  of  Cauca,  the  prefect  of 
Popaydn  and  their  staffs,  each  bearing  a  standard.  Next 
in  line  were  the  maidens,  covered  with  large  black  shawls, 
or  manias,  with  folded  hands  and  downcast  eyes  which, 
however,  they  were  not  averse  to  raising  to  meet  the  admir- 
ing glances  cast  by  some  of  the  onlookers.  The  students 
from  the  seminaries  and  a  choir  of  singers  preceded  a  life- 
size  statue  of  the  patron  of  the  feast,  borne  aloft  on  the 
shoulders  of  stalwart  youths;  then  came  the  archbishop 
and  the  higher  ecclesiastics  in  tall  mitres  and  gorgeously 
embroidered  and  glittering  robes.  Those  of  the  general 
public  who  chose  to  march  fell  in  line  behind  the  bands  that 


POPAYAN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE          29 

followed,  chanting  prayers.  The  remainder  knelt  in  the 
streets  with  bowed,  uncovered  heads  as  the  procession  passed. 
All  the  buildings,  even  the  trees,  were  gayly  decorated  with 
banners,  a  mixture  of  the  papal  and  national  insignia.  Co- 
lombia is  perhaps  the  only  remaining  country  in  the  New 
World  in  which  religion  still  dominates  the  government. 

If  we  examine  a  map  of  Colombia  we  will  find  that  the 
Cerro  Munchique,  the  highest  of  the  mountains  in  the 
Western  Range,  lies  directly  west  of  Popaydn.  There  is 
an  exceedingly  difficult  pass  across  the  Cordillera  at  this 
point,  leading  to  a  place  called  the  Cocal,  still  far  distant 
from  the  coast.  A  trail  was  also  being  opened  a  short  dis- 
tance to  the  south  leading  to  the  Rio  Micai.  When  this 
is  completed  it  will  require  a  four  days'  journey  on  mules 
to  the  river;  then  two  days  in  canoes  on  the  Micai,  said 
to  contain  many  rapids  and  to  flow  through  country  in- 
habited by  savage  tribes,  before  the  coast  is  reached. 

A  day's  ride  from  Popayan  took  us  to  El  Tambo,  and  at 
noon  the  following  day  we  were  in  the  Indian  village  of 
Chapa  at  the  very  base  of  Munchique.  A  heavy  electri- 
cal storm  delayed  our  departure  until  noon  the  next  day. 
There  were  but  a  dozen  or  fifteen  adobe  huts  in  the  village, 
and  during  the  height  of  the  tempest  one  of  these  suddenly 
collapsed  into  a  heap  of  mud  and  straw;  the  occupants 
barely  escaped  by  fleeing  into  the  deluge  when  the  buck- 
ling walls  apprised  them  of  their  danger. 

After  the  agitation  had  subsided  the  people  erected  an 
altar  in  the  plaza  for  the  celebration  of  a  mass  of  thanks- 
giving. Each  one  brought  some  trinket — a  few  paper 
flowers,  a  picture,  a  bit  of  tinsel,  or  a  candle — with  which 
to  embellish  the  sacred  structure.  Then  they  all  knelt, 
with  bared  heads,  and  in  deepest  devotion  assisted  at  the 
religious  service;  that  is,  all  but  a  plump  Indian  woman 
who  boiled  chontaduros,  or  palm-nuts,  in  a  huge  kettle,  in 
back  of  one  of  the  huts  and  sold  them  to  the  worshippers 
the  moment  devotions  were  over. 

It  required  fully  a  half-day  longer  to  reach  the  end  of 


30  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

the  mule  trail,  and  by  that  time  we  had  reached  an  eleva- 
tion of  eight  thousand  feet. 

From  this  point  up  the  mountains  are  covered  with  a 
dense  growth  of  primeval  forest.  Below  this  elevation  there 
are  occasional  strips  of  woods  and  patches  of  brush  inter- 
spersed with  clearings.  Maize  grows  splendidly  up  to  an 
altitude  of  seven  thousand  feet;  this  was  proven  by  the 
few  small  fields  cultivated  by  the  Indians.  The  slope  was 
also  dotted  with  areas  planted  in  rice. 

The  ascent  of  Munchique  is  very  abrupt;  there  are  no 
streams  near  the  summit,. as  the  top  of  the  mountain  is 
composed  of  solid  rock  that  sheds  rain  as  soon  as  it  falls. 
The  highest  pinnacle  is  a  flat,  bare  rock,  about  ten  thou- 
sand feet  above  sea-level. 

Robert  Blake  White  states  that  from  this  spot  one  may 
"obtain  a  view  over  more  than  fifteen  thousand  square 
miles  of  country.  The  whole  of  the  Central  Cordillera, 
from  the  frontier  of  Ecuador  to  the  confines  of  the  State 
of  Antioquia,  with  the  valleys  of  the  Cauca  and  the  Patia, 
were  visible  to  the  north,  east,  and  south;  whilst,  on  turn- 
ing to  the  westward,  the  Pacific  coast  from  the  bay  of 
Tumaco  to  the  mouth  of  the  San  Juan  River  seemed  spread 
out  like  a  map  before  us. 

"A  more  gorgeous  panorama  cannot  well  be  imagined. 
The  belts  of  bright-colored  vegetation,  marked  by  the  val- 
leys with  their  winding  rivers  and  streams,  were  backed 
with  masses  of  the  Cordillera  with  their  varied  tints  and 
snow-capped  peaks.  On  the  other  hand,  the  dark-hued  veg- 
etation of  the  virgin  forests  of  the  Pacific  slopes  stretched 
down  to  the  ocean's  margin,  which  with  its  thousand  bays 
and  inlets  and  fringe  of  foam  which  was  quite  visible, 
looked  like  an  edging  of  lace.  The  island  of  Gorgona  could 
be  distinctly  seen. 

"The  Cerro  Munchique  should  be  visited  in  the  dry  sea- 
son, for  its  peculiar  prominence  makes  it  a  grand  lightning 
conductor,  as  we  clearly  saw  from  the  shattered  rock  on 
the  summit." 


Cerro  Munchique. 


A  deserted  Indian  hut  on  the  Cerro  Munchique. 


POPAYiN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE          31 

We  discovered  a  deserted  Indian  hut  in  the  centre  of  a 
large,  overgrown,  abandoned  plantation,  and  made  it  our 
headquarters  for  a  week  or  more.  The  site  was  ideal. 
Tall  forest  hemmed  in  the  clearing  on  all  sides,  and  a  rivu- 
let of  clear,  icy  water  flowed  near  the  shack.  The  eleva- 
tion was  eight  thousand  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet. 
Obviously,  the  place  had  been  unoccupied  for  a  number  of 
years,  doubtless  owing  to  the  fact  that  maize  and  rice 
would  not  thrive  at  this  high  altitude.  However,  these 
same  conditions  were  most  congenial  to  a  host  of  other 
vegetation.  Blackberries  and  rhododendrons,  with  lilac, 
red,  white,  pink,  and  yellow  flowers  formed  a  solid  tangle, 
acres  in  extent,  and  creepers  entirely  covered  the  tall,  dead 
stubs,  and  crowned  them  with  a  thick  canopy  of  green 
leaves  from  which  clusters  of  orange  and  scarlet  trumpet- 
flowers  drooped. 

At  night  the  temperature  went  down  to  about  45°,  but 
this  did  not  deter  giant  hawk,  owl,  and  sphinx-moths  from 
appearing  at  dusk  to  feast  on  the  nectar  of  the  myriads  of 
flowers.  The  little  stream  was  the  rendezvous  for  number- 
less frogs.  One  hardly  suspected  their  presence  during 
the  daytime  unless  a  careful  search  was  made  of  the  rotting 
wood  that  littered  the  ground,  and  of  the  tangled,  snake- 
like  stems  of  second-growth  sprouts  and  leaves;  but  at 
night  the  concert  was  always  sure  to  begin  in  startling 
volume.  Some  of  the  notes  reminded  me  of  our  own  spring 
peeper;  others  were  sharp  and  metallic,  like  the  twanging 
of  a  banjo-string;  and  others  were  low  and  mellow  like  the 
murmuring  of  a  'cello.  They  all  blended  into  a  deafening 
chorus  of  unflagging  animation  and  unvaried  monotony. 
At  first  the  din  was  rather  disconcerting,  but  gradually 
there  came  to  us  the  realization  that  this  was  but  the  bub- 
bling over  of  care-free  little  hearts  rendering  a  song  of  hap- 
piness and  thanksgiving  to  nature  for  the  pure,  unsullied 
joy  of  an  unfettered  existence. 

Birds  were  not  particularly  plentiful  in  the  forest.  There 
were,  however,  a  number  of  interesting  forms,  particularly 


32  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

among  the  tanagers.  One  species  (Psittospiza  riefferi)  was 
about  the  size  of  a  robin  and  of  a  deep  grass-green  color, 
with  a  chestnut-colored  face  and  abdomen;  these  birds  live 
singly  and  in  pairs  in  the  tall  trees  and  are  of  a  wary  dis- 
position. Another  tanager  (Sporathraupis)  has  a  bright- 
blue  head  and  olive-green  back;  the  breast  is  deep,  dull  blue 
merging  into  golden  yellow  on  the  legs.  The  natives  called 
this  bird  jilguero,  a  name  applied  to  the  solitaire  in  other 
localities.  It  lives  in  the  lower  branches  of  trees,  travelling 
in  pah's  or  small  flocks  and  feeds  on  fruit;  the  song  is  not 
unpleasant,  but  cannot  compare  with  any  solitaire  known 
to  me. 

While  collecting  one  morning  my  attention  was  attracted 
by  a  chorus  of  chirps  and  screams,  and  following  up  the 
sounds  I  reached  a  tall  tree  where  a  peculiar  bird  drama  was 
being  staged.  A  number  of  California  woodpeckers  (Me- 
lanerpes  flavigularis)  had  drilled  numerous  holes  in  the 
tree-trunk,  from  which  sap  trickled  in  small  streams.  A 
dozen  or  more  buff- tailed  hummers  (Boissonneaua  flavescens) 
had  apparently  come  for  their  daily  jag,  for  the  sap  very 
evidently  had  an  intoxicating  effect.  Arriving  in  a  bee- 
line,  newcomers  landed  against  the  trunk,  where  they  clung 
like  so  many  moths,  the  buff-colored  tail  spread  wide  and 
against  the  bark  for  support.  Their  antics  as  the  different 
stages  of  hilarity  were  reached  were  most  amusing.  They 
twittered,  fought,  turned,  and  tumbled  in  the  air;  others 
dozed  on  small  twigs,  and  several  fluttered  toward  the 
ground  in  an  exhausted  condition.  This  performance  con- 
tinued daily  for  a  week,  until  the  sap  suddenly  ceased  to 
flow;  then  the  tree  was  deserted  and  silent,  the  capricious 
band  having  no  doubt  sobered  up  from  their  debauch  and 
gone  back  to  their  normal  and  more  profitable  pursuits  in 
life. 

In  getting  water  from  the  brook,  one  of  our  men  dis- 
covered a  narrow  trail  under  a  giant  log.  We  justly  sur- 
mised that  animals  of  some  sort  used  the  runway  in  jour- 
neying to  and  from  the  water.  A  trap  was  set  in  the  path, 


POPAYAN  AND  THE  CERRO  MUNCHIQUE          33 

and  next  morning  a  fine  white  opossum  of  large  size  had 
been  safely  ensnared.  In  the  days  that  followed  we  secured 
an  even  dozen  of  the  animals.  They  proved  to  be  a  form 
unknown  to  science  that  now  bears  the  name  Didelphis 
paraguayensis  andina.  The  cook  said  that  they  were  de- 
licious eating,  and  prepared  for  us  an  unusually  fat  indi- 
vidual; but  we  found  the  meat  of  rather  strong  flavor,  and 
not  very  palatable.  A  solitary  weasel  (Mustela  affinis  cos- 
taricensis)  was  also  taken  in  the  same  spot.  It  would  be 
interesting  to  know  whether  this  animal  came  down  to 
drink,  or  was  in  pursuit  of  some  of  the  other  creatures  that 
frequented  the  runway.  Weasels  are  courageous,  active, 
and  bloodthirsty  little  animals;  their  eyesight  is  poor,  but 
their  sense  of  smell  is  keen  and  they  will  tirelessly  follow 
their  intended  victim  until  it  falls  into  their  clutches.  I 
have  frequently  heard  that  they  attack  and  kill  small  deer 
by  clinging  to  the  neck  and  doggedly  chewing  their  way 
through  the  skin  until  the  jugular  vein  is  severed;  this 
does  not  seem  probable  to  me,  however,  and  it  is  far  more 
reasonable  to  believe  that  rats,  mice,  frogs,  and  other  small 
creatures  form  the  bulk  of  their  prey.  On  account  of  their 
slender  proportions,  they  can  trail  the  quarry  through 
small  holes  and  crevices;  in  addition,  they  are  also  expert 
climbers.  On  one  occasion,  while  "squeaking"  to  attract  a 
bird,  a  weasel  came  instead,  looking  for  the  supposed  help- 
less creature,  and  ran  over  my  feet  without  suspecting  the 
fraud. 

They  will  fight  savagely  to  protect  their  nest,  usually 
made  in  a  hole  in  the  ground  or  hollow  stump,  and  I  know 
of  one  instance  where  one  of  the  animals  sprang  into  the 
face  of  a  native  who  had  trapped  its  mate  at  the  mouth 
of  a  burrow. 

Nearly  a  month  had  passed  since  we  left  Popaydn,  but 
the  time  had  been  spent  so  pleasantly  and  profitably  that 
it  seemed  scarcely  longer  than  a  week.  Our  scheduled  time 
for  the  region  had  been  exhausted,  however,  so  we  reluc- 
tantly retraced  our  steps  to  Popayan. 


CHAPTER  III 

THE  ANDES  SOUTHWEST  OF  POPAYAN;   CRUISE  OF 
THE   CALDAS 

AFTER  our  return  to  Popaydn  we  spent  a  few  days  wrap- 
ping and  packing  the  large  collection  of  birds  and  mammals 
that  had  been  secured  on  the  Cerro  Munchique;  and,  dur- 
ing the  odd  moments  when  this  work  became  arduous,  we 
sought  information  about  the  mountains  south  of  the  place 
we  had  just  visited.  Eventually  our  quest  took  us  to  the 
governor's  palace,  where  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet 
the  executive  of  the  province  of  Cauca,  Doctor  Alfredo 
Carets. 

The  first  thing  that  attracted  our  attention  was  a  framed 
poem  hanging  above  his  desk;  the  title  of  it  was  "Death  to 
Foreigners";  but  the  kindly  and  sympathetic  governor  soon 
dispelled  any  doubts  we  may  have  harbored  as  to  his  feel- 
ings. He  was  a  man  of  great  refinement  and  education, 
and  had  travelled  extensively  in  the  United  States.  Our 
mission  interested  him  greatly.  He  brought  out  maps  and 
charts,  and  then,  with  the  aid  of  a  pair  of  powerful  field- 
glasses,  showed  us  the  places  he  had  pointed  out  on  the 
drawings. 

Doctor  Garce*s  proved  to  be  one  of  our  best  and  most 
highly  valued  friends,  despite  the  rather  alarming  notice 
on  his  office  wall.  He  called  on  us  at  the  inn  several  times 
each  day,  and  admired  the  birds  and  mammals  we  had 
collected.  Our  rooms  were  always  in  the  state  of  greatest 
upheaval  with  packing-cases,  equipment,  provisions,  and  a 
hundred  other  things  occupying  each  available  place;  but 
the  governor  took  it  all  as  a  matter  of  course,  enjoyed  delv- 
ing among  our  possessions  in  search  of  things  unknown  to 

34 


THE  ANDES  SOUTHWEST  OF  POPAY^N  35 

him,  and  probably  considered  himself  fortunate  if  he  could 
find  his  silk  hat  and  cane  in  the  place  they  had  been  left 
when  he  was  ready  to  leave. 

June  24  found  us  again  upon  the  trail,  heading  south- 
westward.  Both  the  Central  and  Coast  Ranges  were  visi- 
ble for  many  miles,  the  snow-covered  Purace  and  Sotard 
dominating  the  former,  with  Munchique  standing  unequalled 
in  the  latter.  Barren,  rolling  hills  stretched  away  in  the 
distance  like  the  waves  of  a  storm-tossed  sea;  this  undulat- 
ing country  is  the  first  indication  of  a  connecting-link  be- 
tween the  two  ranges. 

For  two  days  there  was  no  perceptible  change  in  the 
country;  but  on  the  morning  of  the  third  day,  shortly  after 
leaving  the  settlement  of  Monos,  we  entered  virgin  forest 
at  an  altitude  of  seven  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  A  shel- 
ter-house, known  as  San  Jose,  is  just  a  thousand  feet  higher 
up,  and  at  ten  o'clock  we  were  up  ten  thousand  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet.  From  here  one  has  an  unrivalled  view 
of  thousands  of  square  miles  of  country.  The  magnificent 
valley,  appearing  greener  and  more  level  from  our  height 
than  was  really  the  case,  lay  below,  and  stretched  far  to 
the  north.  The  paramos  and  volcanoes  flanking  the  far 
side  were  abreast  of  our  station.  Frequently,  while  in 
similar  positions,  there  recurred  to  me  the  sentiment  so 
aptly  expressed  by  Hudson:  "Viewed  from  the  top  of  a 
lofty  mountain,  the  world  assumes  a  vastness  and  varied 
beauty  that  revive  the  flagging  spirit  and  refresh  the  soul." 
And  quite  as  certainly  there  is  forced  upon  our  recognition 
the  infinitesimal  smallness  of  man  when  compared  to  the 
immensity  of  nature — a  mere  atom  existing  by  virtue  of  a 
benevolent  force  that  has  so  ordained,  but  that  reserves 
the  power  to  crush  the  whole  fabric  of  life  at  a  breath. 

The  top  of  the  ridge  is  ten  thousand  three  hundred  and 
forty  feet  high,  and  the  vegetation  is  typical  of  the  tem- 
perate zone;  low,  dense  bushes,  mingled  with  the  gnarled 
branches  of  stunted  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs,  burdened 
with  clumps  of  red  and  lavender  flowers.  Numbers  of  low 


36  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

grass  shacks  had  been  built  along  the  trail;  some  of  them 
were  very  long  and  housed  the  peons  working  on  the  road 
to  Micai.  Although  these  structures  were  of  comparatively 
recent  origin,  many  small  rodents  had  been  attracted  to 
them  by  the  corn  that  formed  the  principal  article  of  food 
of  the  peons.  A  large  brown  rat  (Oryzomys  pectoralis)  was 
very  abundant;  apparently  this  rodent  had  formerly 
existed  in  small  numbers  only,  for  it  was  rare  out  in  the 
open;  but  the  artificial  conditions  created  by  the  settle- 
ment of  the  region  had  proved  so  congenial  that  it  increased 
rapidly.  The  same  is  true  of  several  other  species  of  rats 
that  almost  overran  the  houses. 

In  riding  or  walking  along  the  trail,  I  frequently  encoun- 
tered a  species  of  snake  resembling  in  coloration  a  coral 
snake;  however,  it  was  not  unusual  to  find  an  individual 
five  feet  or  even  more  in  length,  and  two  or  three  inches 
through  in  the  thickest  part.  They  appeared  exceeding 
sluggish  and  even  refused  to  move  although  almost  trodden 
upon.  We  never  molested  them,  as  they  appeared  to  be 
harmless,  and  were  really  of  striking  beauty.  Unfortu- 
nately, we  had  no  way  of  preserving  any.  A  species  re- 
cently discovered  in  Nicaragua  by  Mr.  Clarence  R.  Halter, 
which  is  similar  to  the  one  we  saw  almost  daily,  belongs  to 
the  genus  Coronella. 

The  birds  belonged  to  a  typical  temperate-zone  fauna. 
Among  them  was  a  new  species  of  beautiful  honey-creeper 
(Diglossa  gloriosissima) ;  it  is  black  with  blue  shoulders  and 
a  deep-rufous  abdomen.  They  clambered  about  over  the 
clusters  of  gorgeous  flowers,  feasting  on  the  nectar  they 
contained.  Another  common  bird  was  a  tanager  (Iridosor- 
nis)  the  size  of  our  redbird,  but  of  a  bright-violet  color  that 
merges  into  greenish  blue  on  the  wings.  The  head  is  black 
excepting  the  crown,  which  is  deep  orange.  It  is  a  viva- 
cious creature,  travels  in  small  flocks  that  frequent  the 
taller  shrubbery,  but  possesses  limited  singing  powers  only. 

During  our  stay  we  had  occasion  to  witness  a  christening 
ceremony  performed  by  a  priest  who  was  travelling  through 


THE  ANDES  SOUTHWEST  OF  POPAY^N  37 

the  region  for  the  purpose  of  ministering  to  the  people's 
spiritual  needs.  The  fact  had  been  widely  advertised,  so 
early  on  the  appointed  day  many  natives  appeared,  bring- 
ing small  children  to  be  baptized.  About  thirty  had  been 
brought  by  noon,  when  the  priest  commanded  the  god- 
parents to  line  up,  each  holding  his  gaudily  dressed  and 
probably  fretful  little  charge.  The  priest  began  at  one 
end  of  the  row,  dispensing  one  part  of  the  sacrament  to 
each  child  as  he  passed;  then  he  went  back  and  began  all 
over  again,  giving  the  second  part  to  each  of  them,  and  so 
on  until  the  rite  was  completed. 

It  so  happened  that  there  was  a  small  child  in  the  hut 
we  had  chosen  for  our  several  days'  sojourn.  To  honor 
the  gringos  who  were  stopping  under  her  roof,  the  senora 
asked  Richardson  to  be  the  little  one's  godfather,  while  I 
was  permitted  to  suggest  the  name.  We  naturally  felt  as 
if  we  should  give  the  baby  a  present,  but  a  thorough  ran- 
sacking through  my  effects  revealed  only  a  can  of  talcum 
powder,  which  I  promptly  presented  to  the  mother.  A  few 
days  later  she  came  to  me  in  distress:  "The  baby  has  a 
slight  fever,"  she  said.  "I  gave  it  some  of  the  white  pow- 
der you  made  me  a  present  of,  but  it  did  no  good.  How 
much  is  it  necessary  to  take  at  one  time?" 

The  western  slope  of  the  range  is  very  abrupt.  Large 
forces  of  men  were  engaged  in  cutting  a  narrow  ledge  for  a 
footpath  into  the  face  of  the  steep  mountainside.  The  trail 
wound  back  and  forth  continuously;  looking  over  the  rim 
of  the  narrow  shelf  one  could  count  six  or  eight  loops  under- 
neath, one  below  the  other. 

The  work  of  cutting  such  a  way  is  hazardous  for  the  men 
engaged  in  it.  The  soil  is  loose  and  saturated  with  water, 
so  landslides  were  of  frequent  occurrence;  and  whenever 
the  irresistible  avalanche  swept  the  precipitous  terrain,  it 
usually  carried  one  or  more  of  the  laborers  with  it  and 
buried  them  under  tons  of  rock  and  debris.  It  was  in- 
variably hopeless  to  try  to  find  the  body,  so  the  survivors 
simply  erected  a  cross  on  the  spot.  Frequently  there  were 


38  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

several  crosses  together,  and  in  one  place  I  counted  seven- 
teen standing  side  by  side. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  a  lone  hut  in  a  small 
clearing — the  hastily  erected  shelter  of  a  group  of  peons. 
The  men  invited  us  to  stop,  and  as  the  locality  looked  in- 
teresting we  accepted  the  invitation;  but  we  erected  our 
tent  and  lived  in  it  in  preference  to  the  hut. 

All  the  surrounding  country  was  covered  with  virgin 
forest.  It  had  never  been  trodden  by  man,  at  least  not 
within  many  years;  there  were  no  side  trails  of  any  kind,  so 
that  it  was  impossible  to  penetrate  very  far. 

Among  our  first  mammals  were  a  doe  and  fawn  of  a  lit- 
tle forest-deer  (Mazama  setta).  They  are  commonly  known 
as  brockets  or  spike-bucks,  as  each  horn  consists  of  a  single 
prong.  I  believe  that  these  deer  are  not  so  rare  as  gener- 
ally supposed,  but  they  are  seldom  collected  on  account  of 
the  difficulty  of  hunting  them  in  the  thick  jungle.  The 
peons  shot  the  ones  we  secured.  They  had  discovered  a 
path  leading  to  a  small  stream,  and  concealing  themselves 
on  the  opposite  side,  waited  until  the  animals  came  down 
to  drink;  then  they  shot  them.  The  men  also  brought  in 
a  huge  bushmaster  that  they  unearthed  while  clearing 
away  underbrush.  The  deadly  reptile  is  known  as  eguis 
to  the  natives  on  account  of  the  black  X-shaped  marks  on 
its  back. 

The  mountainsides  were  scarred  with  deep  fissures  and 
ravines  filled  with  the  darkest  and  most  impenetrable  of 
forests.  It  was  possible  to  look  across  from  one  side  to 
the  other,  but  crossing  them  was  impracticable.  Each 
morning  I  could  see  a  flock  of  some  thirty-odd  swallow- 
tailed  kites  soaring  just  above  the  trees  on  the  far  side  of 
one  of  the  ravines.  The  magnificent  birds  resembled  huge 
white-bellied  swallows,  or  swifts,  as  they  circled  majesti- 
cally over  the  dark  forest;  they  uttered  shrill  screams  all 
the  while.  Apparently  they  fed  on  the  wing,  and  speci- 
mens collected  by  us  later  had  eaten  quantities  of  large 
beetles  and  flying  ants.  At  about  nine  o'clock  the  band 


THE  ANDES  SOUTHWEST  OF  POPAYAN  39 

always  resorted  to  the  top  of  a  tall  tree  that  towered  far 
above  its  contemporaries  for  a  short  rest;  this  was  rather 
unusual,  as  the  birds  are  rarely  seen  perched,  and  the  na- 
tives said  they  never  alight  during  the  daytime.  Live 
birds,  or  specimens  freshly  killed,  have  the  glistening  black 
back  covered  with  a  beautiful  grayish  "bloom"  or  powder 
that  gives  it  a  soft,  velvety  appearance.  However,  this 
disappears  soon  after  death. 

A  species  of  pigmy  squirrel  (Microsciurus)  lived  in  the 
forest,  but  we  seldom  saw  any  of  the  little  creatures  scarcely 
bigger  than  one  of  the  larger  kinds  of  mice.  I  have  always 
found  these  animals  much  rarer  than  the  ordinary  squir- 
rels; usually  they  live  in  pairs.  They  seem  to  prefer  for- 
ests abounding  in  palms  and  to  feed  on  the  various  kinds 
of  palm-fruits  and  nuts.  They  frequently  evince  a  great 
deal  of  curiosity  and  can  be  approached  to  within  a  short 
distance  before  taking  fright  and  scampering  out  of  sight 
among  the  leaves. 

The  minute  creatures  move  rapidly  and  gracefully  and 
make  long,  daring  leaps.  In  running  over  the  leaves  and 
branches  they  follow  the  lateral  stems,  and  on  reaching  the 
ends  ascend  through  the  tree-top  or  thick  foliage  by  leap- 
ing crossways  from  twig  to  twig,  as  if  ascending  the  rungs 
of  a  ladder. 

I  kept  one  that  was  given  to  me  by  the  natives  as  a  pet 
for  some  time.  It  made  its  home  in  the  pocket  of  my  flan- 
nel hunting-shirt,  where  it  was  always  sure  to  find  a  bit  of 
cracker  or  sugar,  and  to  which  it  could  retreat  when  fright- 
ened. Whenever  anything  of  an  unusual  nature  occurred, 
the  bright,  inquisitive  little  eyes  always  appeared  suddenly 
so  as  not  to  miss  a  single  thing  that  might  be  of  interest. 
It  never  attempted  to  bite  or  run  away,  and  seemed  per- 
fectly contented  with  the  company  of  the  friends  that  fed 
and  protected  it. 

Eventually  we  started  back  toward  Popaydn.  We  crossed 
the  high  brush-covered  divide  July  4;  a  violent  electrical 
storm  had  been  staged  on  the  wild  mountain-top  as  if  in 


40  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

noisy  celebration  of  the  day.  It  began  with  a  dark  mist 
that  covered  everything.  Then  rain  and  hail  fell  unin- 
terruptedly for  more  than  an  hour,  while  lightning  flashed 
and  blue-green  flames  seemed  to  leap  toward  the  blackened 
rock.  Sometimes  the  bolts  came  from  above,  and  again 
they  were  below  us  so  that  we  were  enveloped  in  a  weird, 
ghastly  light.  The  thunder  was  terrific  and  kept  up  a  con- 
tinuous crash  and  rumble.  It  was  impossible  to  see  any 
other  member  of  the  expedition  on  account  of  the  thick 
haze — there  was  no  shelter  of  any  kind — only  the  narrow 
shelf-like  trail  that  snaked  its  way  along  the  steep  slope. 
After  the  storm  we  made  camp;  the  men  and  mules  kept 
straggling  in  until  a  late  hour;  they  were  very  wet  and 
much  bedraggled,  but  apparently  none  the  worse  for  the 
nerve-racking  experience. 

Popayan  was  reached  without  further  incident.  Rich- 
ardson's contract  having  expired,  he  determined  to  leave 
the  country,  so  we  returned  to  Cali  to  rearrange  the  equip- 
ment and  pack  the  collections;  then  he  left  for  Buena- 
ventura to  take  a  north-bound  steamer. 

In  the  meantime  Doctor  Chapman,  who  had  reached 
New  York,  arranged  to  send  down  a  man  to  fill  the  vacancy 
left  by  Richardson.  Doctor  Arthur  A.  Allen,  of  Cornell 
University,  was  selected  for  the  place.  He  reached  Cali 
about  the  middle  of  August  and  accompanied  me  during 
the  succeeding  eight  months. 

In  compliance  with  instructions  received  from  Doctor 
Chapman,  I  immediately  planned  an  expedition  northward^ 
then  toward  the  east  to  make  a  zoological  exploration  of  the 
forests  bordering  the  Quindio  Pass  and  of  the  high  paramo 
of  Santa  Isabel.  The  first  stage  of  the  journey  was  down 
the  Cauca  River. 

Regular  steamboat  service  is  maintained  between  Guan- 
chito  and  Cartago  during  the  rainy  season.  The  Sucre,  a 
boat  of  small  size,  makes  frequent  voyages,  requiring  about 
three  days'  time  each  way.  On  this  vessel  one  may  travel 
in  comparative  comfort — if  one  is  not  too  squeamish.  We 


THE  ANDES  SOUTHWEST  OF  POPAYAN  41 

had  to  be  content  with  a  smaller  craft,  however,  as  there 
was  not  sufficient  water  to  float  the  Sucre  over  the  numer- 
ous sand-bars. 

The  Caldas  is  a  little  steel  launch  of  not  over  fifty  feet 
from  stem  to  stern,  with  a  beam  of  fifteen  feet  and  drawing 
eighteen  inches  of  water.  When  the  river  is  full  the  Caldas 
is  used  to  carry  freight  only,  for  which  purpose  she  doubt- 
less serves  admirably;  but  at  other  times  she  assumes  the 
double  responsibility  of  carrying  both  cargo  and  passen- 
gers. Of  course  there  is  the  alternative  of  going  overland; 
but  the  trip  takes  twice  as  long,  and  after  having  spent 
some  time  on  the  muddy  trails,  the  novelty  of  a  river  trip 
is  likely  to  make  a  strong  appeal,  whatever  the  odds. 

On  the  announced  date  of  sailing  thirty-seven  individ- 
uals of  all  sizes,  ages,  and  shades  of  color  gathered  on  the 
river's  bank,  each  impatient  to  be  the  first  to  cross  the 
narrow  plank  and  board  the  small  craft.  There  also  waited 
a  huge  mound  of  boxes,  bags,  bales  of  hides,  and  other 
freight;  this  was  loaded  first  and  piled  in  the  front  and 
rear.  The  engine  occupied  the  centre  of  the  boat,  as  did 
the  kitchen.  When  the  people  were  finally  permitted  to 
go  aboard,  there  was  a  wild  scramble  to  the  top  of  the  heap 
of  boxes  and  bundles.  To  sit  up  straight  under  the  sheet- 
iron  roof  was  impossible;  fortunately  the  sun  shone  inter- 
mittently only  or  we  should  have  been  suffocated. 

From  the  very  beginning  there  was  enough  of  interest  to 
keep  one's  nerves  tensed  to  a  high  pitch.  The  crumbling 
banks,  great  chunks  of  which  settled  gently  into  the  water 
as  the  waves,  caused  by  the  launch's  propeller,  washed 
away  the  last  bit  of  restraining  sand;  the  numbers  of  bam- 
boo rafts  laden  with  bananas,  plantains,  and  other  tropical 
fruits  on  their  way  to  the  port  of  Guanchito;  the  dark- 
skinned  fishermen  who  cast  their  nets  into  eddies  and  quiet 
pools,  and  the  washwomen,  each  smoking  an  enormous 
black  cigar  and  beating  the  clothes  upon  stones  until  one 
expected  to  see  them  fly  into  shreds,  were  very  interesting. 
There  were  also  hundreds  of  cormorants  and  anhingas  that 


42  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

swain  and  dived  or  flew  up  into  the  trees;  some  of  them  sat 
on  snags  drying  their  wide-spread  wings. 

The  banks  of  the  river  are  very  high  and  abrupt  in  most 
places,  and  the  stream  runs  through  a  tortuous  channel. 
At  each  bend  the  current  dashes  with  great  force  against  the 
bank,  and  then  rebounds  on  down-stream.  The  little  Col- 
das  could  not  hope  to  battle  against  the  rushing  torrent, 
so  she  would  head  straight  for  the  bank;  frequently  her 
nose  struck  the  soft  sand  and  held  fast;  then  the  current 
swung  her  around  and  back  into  midstream,  where  after 
spinning  around  a  few  times  she  regained  her  poise  and 
was  swept  along.  As  wood  was  burned  exclusively,  stops 
had  to  be  made  every  few  hours  for  a  new  supply.  The 
launch,  in  her  crowded  condition,  had  little  room  for  fuel, 
but  the  brief  pauses  gave  those  on  board  an  opportunity 
to  go  ashore — a  welcome  respite  from  the  cramped  position 
made  necessary  by  the  limited  space  available  on  the  boat. 
At  one  of  these  spots  an  extensive  cacao-plantation  lined 
the  bank,  the  tall  madres  de  cacao  reaching  high  up  into 
the  heavens  above  their  lowly  but  precious  proteges.  The 
"mother  of  cacao,"  it  might  be  said,  is  a  species  of  Erithmas 
planted  to  protect  the  delicate  cacao-trees  from  the  sun. 
A  colony  of  snake-birds  or  anhingas  had  selected  this  grove 
for  a  rookery.  Thousands  of  the  birds  sat  on  the  topmost 
branches  while  other  countless  numbers  were  flying  back 
and  forth  in  endless  streams,  each  bird  a  component  part 
of  a  whirling,  living  mass.  The  slender  body,  long  thin 
neck,  small  head,  and  sharp  bill  give  the  bird  a  peculiar 
appearance;  when  swimming  under  water  with  only  the 
neck  protruding  it  greatly  resembles  a  snake— hence  the 
name  snake-bird.  Each  tree  within  an  area  of  several  acres 
contained  a  number  of  nests;  they  were  clumsy  structures 
made  of  sticks.  The  eggs,  three  or  four  in  number,  are 
white  and  as  long  as  a  hen's  egg  but  only  half  as  wide. 
Later  in  the  day  a  flock  of  scarlet  ibises  approached  from 
down-stream,  flew  past,  and  then  disappeared  like  twin- 
kling bits  of  flame. 


THE  ANDES  SOUTHWEST  OF  POPAY^N  43 

In  the  early  afternoon  the  Caldas  struck  a  sand-bar  with 
full  force.  The  greater  number  of  the  passengers  had  eaten 
their  luncheon — brought  by  themselves  in  small  parcels 
neatly  done  up  in  banana  leaves — and  were  quietly  dozing. 
There  was  a  harsh,  grating  sound,  a  shock,  and  the  water 
swirled  around  and  past  the  boat,  which  moved  not  an 
inch.  The  engines  were  reversed  and  the  crew  sprang  into 
the  river  and  pushed,  but  it  availed  nothing,  so  after  re- 
peated efforts  these  attempts  were  abandoned.  Luckily, 
the  craft  carried  a  small  dugout  canoe,  into  which  the  pas- 
sengers were  unloaded,  three  or  four  at  a  time,  and  taken 
ashore  by  two  husky  negroes  who  waded  to  the  bank,  one 
pulling  and  the  other  pushing  the  canoe.  There  was  no 
break  in  the  abrupt  banks  for  perhaps  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
so  it  was  some  time  before  all  on  board  had  been  landed. 
The  crew  then  began  to  dig  away  the  sand  that  held  the 
launch  fast. 

The  spot  where  the  passengers  had  been  landed  was  an 
open,  treeless  plain  with  not  a  shelter  in  sight.  At  first 
the  heat  of  the  sun  was  insufferable;  then  it  began  to  rain 
as  we  had  never  seen  it  rain  before.  No  one  had  a  poncho, 
so  there  was  nothing  to  do  but  stand  quietly  and  endure 
the  drenching  downpour. 

When  the  sand  had  been  dug  away  the  launch,  suddenly 
freed,  shot  down-stream  a  half  mile  before  a  landing  could 
be  effected.  This  of  course  necessitated  a  long  tramp 
through  deep  mud  and  tall,  wet  grass,  which  added  to  the 
cheerlessness  of  the  luckless,  half-drowned  victims  of  back- 
ward methods  of  transportation.  The  banks  were  as  steep 
as  ever,  but  a  capybara  runway,  resembling  a  giant  musk- 
rat  slide,  had  been  discovered,  and  down  this  we  slid,  one 
at  a  time,  into  the  arms  of  two  negroes  who  acted  as  a 
back-stop  below. 

The  delay  prevented  the  launch  from  reaching  Buga,  so 
as  soon  as  darkness  settled,  she  was  tied  up  for  the  night. 
A  great  tree-trunk,  embedded  in  the  sand  with  huge 
branches  swaying  high  above  the  water,  lay  near  by.  We 


44  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

swung  our  hammocks  between  the  sturdy  limbs,  covered 
them  with  mosquito-nets,  and  spent  a  miserable  night; 
those  who  attempted  to  sleep  aboard  had  a  harder  time 
of  it  by  far. 

We  were  off  with  the  first  streak  of  dawn,  startling  flocks 
of  muscovy  ducks  and  herons  from  near  the  banks.  A 
faint  blue  mist  was  rising  slowly  from  the  water,  and  the 
ah*  was  chill  and  damp.  The  mantle  of  silence  that  falls 
over  tropical  South  America  at  nightfall  had  not  yet  been 
lifted.  For  some  little  time  we  glided  on,  farther  and  far- 
ther, it  seemed,  into  a  great  vacuity  that  led  to  some 
vaguely  defined  sanctuary  of  everlasting  peace  and  obliv- 
ion. Then,  without  warning,  a  sound  so  terrible  rent  the 
vast  solitude  that  it  seemed  as  if  some  demon  of  the  wilds 
were  taking  a  belated  revenge  for  the  few  hours  of  quiet  in 
which  the  earth  had  rejoiced. 

At  first  there  was  a  series  of  low,  gruff  roars  that  would 
have  done  credit  to  the  most  savage  of  lions,  and  made 
the  very  air  tremble;  but  this  was  not  all.  Added  to  the 
majestic  frightfulness  of  the  jungle  king's  voice  was  a 
quality  of  hate  and  treachery,  of  unfathomed  rage  and 
malicious  bitterness.  Then  followed  in  quick  succession  a 
number  of  high-pitched,  long-drawn  wails  or  howls  of 
tremulous  quality  that  gradually  died,  ending  with  a  few 
guttural  barks.  This  uncanny  performance  lasted  a  number 
of  minutes;  but  having  perpetrated  this  outrage  upon  a 
heretofore  peaceful  world,  the  weird  chorus  suddenly 
stopped. 

The  mists  of  night  had  lifted,  revealing  clumps  of  tall 
bamboo  and  the  beginning  of  heavy  forest.  In  the  top  of 
the  very  first  trees  sat  a  group  of  large  monkeys,  red,  with 
golden  backs,  properly  called  howling  monkeys;  they  were 
the  authors  of  the  terrific  chorus  we  had  just  heard.  How 
an  animal  that  rarely  attains  a  weight  of  thirty  pounds 
can  produce  such  loud  sounds  is  most  remarkable;  the 
hyoid  bone  is  developed  into  a  huge  cup  which  gives  reso- 
nance to  the  voice.  The  howlers  are  rather  sluggish  and 


The  Caldas  fast  on  a  sand-bar  in  the  Cauca  River. 


Bamboo  rafts  on  the  Cauca  River. 


THE  ANDES  SOUTHWEST  OF  POPAYAN  45 

seldom  descend  from  the  trees.  Their  roaring,  which  can 
be  heard  several  miles,  resounds  through  the  forest  morn- 
ing and  night;  whether  it  is  merely  a  form  of  amusement 
with  them,  or  is  used  to  intimidate  enemies,  seems  to  be 
unknown. 

Very  little  is  known  about  the  habits  of  howling  mon- 
keys, despite  their  abundance  and  wide  distribution.  They 
are  usually  found  in  small  family  parties,  including  young 
of  various  sizes;  but  I  have  noticed,  on  various  occasions, 
that  the  females  desert  from  the  troop  when  their  babies 
are  males  and  do  not  rejoin  it  until  the  young  are  half- 
grown,  perhaps  fearing  that  the  old  males  will  kill  them; 
but  I  do  not  know  if  this  is  always  the  case. 

C.  William  Beebe,  in  the  course  of  a  lecture  at  the  Ameri- 
can Museum,  stated  that  he  had  on  several  occasions 
watched  troops  of  these  animals  feed,  in  British  Guiana. 
The  older  ones  sent  their  small  young  to  the  tip  of  the 
slender  branches  that  they,  themselves,  could  not  venture 
upon  on  account  of  their  weight,  to  pick  fruits;  then  they 
pulled  the  little  ones  back  and  robbed  them  of  their  food. 
This  was  repeated  a  number  of  times. 

The  second  night  we  tied  up  near  a  heavy  growth  of 
forest,  at  a  place  called  Riofrio.  This  is  one  of  the  few 
sections  of  the  Cauca  Valley  still  retaining  its  original  stand 
of  virgin  jungle.  We  slung  our  hammocks  between  the 
trees.  The  nets  furnished  ample  protection  from  the 
mosquitoes,  but  not  from  an  army  of  foraging  ants  that 
chanced  our  way.  From  across  the  river  came  the  whine 
of  an  ocelot,  and  the  sharp  snort  of  deer,  while  more  than 
once  we  were  awakened  by  the  pattering  and  shuffle  of 
cautious  feet  close  at  hand,  some  light,  some  heavy  as  if 
belonging  to  a  large  animal. 

Contrary  to  her  custom,  the  Caldas  steamed  on  after 
dark  on  the  third  night  of  her  voyage.  A  train  of  bright 
sparks  trailed  far  behind,  and  when  the  wind  blew  it  carried 
them  into  the  boat  where  they  set  fire  to  clothing  and  bag- 
gage alike.  Within  a  short  time  we  had  reached  the  port 


46  IN  THE  WILDS  OP  SOUTH  AMERICA 

of  Cartago,  found  the  arriero  who  was  awaiting  us  with 
the  animals,  and  were  off  for  Cartago  a  league  away.  The 
town  was  enveloped  in  inky  blackness,  and  fast  asleep, 
notwithstanding  the  early  hour.  A  stray  dog  barked  and 
a  mule  whinnied,  but  there  were  no  other  signs  of  life. 


CHAPTER  IV 

CARTAGO  TO  THE  PARAMOS  OF  RUIZ  AND 
SANTA  ISABEL 

DAWN  revealed  the  fact  that  Cartago  was  not  materially 
different  from  Cali.  It  was  not  so  large,  however,  and  the 
temperature  was  much  higher.  Upon  our  arrival  the  pre- 
ceding night  we  had  finally  succeeded  in  arousing  a  sleepy 
landlord,  who  admitted  us  to  a  dusty,  bare  room  in  the 
Hotel  Colombia.  We  had  learned  long  before  this  time 
that  the  word  "hotel"  usually  meant  a  roof  only  over  one's 
head  and  perhaps  food,  so  we  at  no  time  travelled  out  of 
sight  of  our  baggage,  with  which  we  could  make  ourselves 
fairly  comfortable  under  almost  any  circumstances. 

The  country  surrounding  Cartago  is  level  and  of  a  dry 
nature;  at  any  rate,  it  does  not  compare  at  all  favorably 
with  the  Cauca  Valley  at  Cali.  We  saw  few  evidences  of 
cultivation  and  the  number  of  cattle  and  mules  grazing 
on  the  scanty  vegetation  was  very  small. 

The  outskirts  of  the  city  are  picturesque.  The  huts  are 
low  and  lightly  built  of  slabs  of  flattened  bamboo;  fences 
made  of  split  bamboo  neatly  woven  in  a  basket  pattern 
surround  them,  and  cannon-ball  trees  rear  their  slender, 
awkward  branches  laden  with  great  glistening  spheres  of 
green  fruit,  high  above  the  narrow,  muddy  sidewalks. 
When  the  huge  calabashes  are  ripe  they  are  collected  and 
used  as  containers  for  water,  wash-basins,  bowls,  and  a 
variety  of  utensils;  narrow  sections  that  have  been  split 
carefully  and  resemble  miniature  pointed  barrel-staves 
even  serve  the  purpose  of  spoons. 

A  small  marsh  lies  just  in  back  of  Cartago.  It  was  filled 
with  several  species  of  aquatic  plants — mostly  water-hya- 
cinths and  wild  lettuce  on  which  cattle  fed,  half  submerged 

47 


48  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

in  the  murky  water.  Swarms  of  mosquitoes  issued  from 
the  stagnant  borders  and  invaded  the  town  at  nightfall, 
but  this  was  by  no  means  the  only  breeding-place  of  the 
obnoxious  insects.  Drinking  water,  kept  in  uncovered 
kegs  and  pots,  teemed  with  larvae,  and  glasses  full  of  it  set 
before  us  in  one  of  the  shops  were  fairly  alive  with  wrigglers. 

One  thing  impressed  me  as  being  really  appalling,  and 
that  was  the  number  of  infirm  beggars  in  the  streets.  In 
most  Colombian  towns  beggars  are  permitted  to  ply  their 
profession  only  one  day  each  week  and  are  required  to 
wear  a  cardboard  license  tag  suspended  from  a  string 
around  the  neck;  but  it  seemed  as  if  they  were  out  in  full 
force  every  day  in  Cartago.  Some  of  them  presented  an 
offensive  appearance;  they  were  suffering  with  leprosy  and 
other  terrible  diseases,  and  were  in  such  a  pitiful  plight 
that  one  was  literally  touched  at  mere  sight  of  them.  They 
always  asked  alms  in  the  name  of  the  Virgin  and  all  the 
saints,  and  if  results  were  forthcoming  heaped  a  copious 
blessing  on  the  donor;  but  in  the  event  that  nothing  was 
given  the  benediction  was  in  some  instances  replaced  by 
such  a  tirade  of  profanity  that  one  quickly  realized  what  a 
good  opportunity  to  acquire  merit  had  been  neglected. 

We  left  Cartago  as  soon  as  possible  and  after  a  half- 
day's  ride  over  gently  rolling,  brush-covered  country 
reached  the  Rio  Viejo.  A  good-sized  dwelling  known  as 
Piedra  Moller  stands  near  the  river;  there  one  may  obtain 
men  and  dugout  canoes  with  which  to  cross  the  stream. 

Beyond  the  river  the  trail  passes  through  a  little  valley 
or  depression  about  four  leagues  across.  Tall  brush,  some 
first-growth  forest,  and  extensive  jungles  of  bamboo  flank 
the  narrow  passageway.  I  counted  no  less  than  forty  spe- 
cies of  birds  during  the  afternoon  and  heard  the  notes  of 
several  others  that  I  did  not  recognize.  Small  green  parra- 
keets  (Psittacula  conspicillata)  were  exceedingly  plentiful. 
They  always  reminded  me  of  English  sparrows— not  in  ap- 
pearance but  by  their  actions.  Flocks  of  them  sat  on  tele- 
graph wires  or  house-tops,  chirping  and  chattering  inces- 


CARTAGO  TO  RUIZ  AND  SANTA  ISABEL  49 

santly,  or  fed  on  fruits  or  seeds  in  the  bushes.  They  are 
also  abundant  in  towns  and  villages  and  nest  under  tile 
roofs,  in  hollow  posts,  and  in  holes  in  walls.  The  people 
are  very  fond  of  the  little  " love-birds"  as  they  are  called  and 
keep  them  in  their  patios  as  pets. 

At  Balsas,  which  served  as  the  first  night's  stopping- 
place,  we  discovered  a  whippoorwill's  (Stenopsis  ruficervix) 
nest  in  a  clump  of  bamboo.  The  single  egg  had  been  de- 
posited on  the  leaves  near  a  bamboo  sprout  that  was  rap- 
idly pushing  its  way  upward  like  a  huge  stalk  of  asparagus. 
The  incubating  bird  fluttered  away  as  we  approached,  but 
we  returned  the  next  morning  and  Allen  secured  a  photo- 
graph of  her  on  the  nest. 

Noon  of  the  next  day  found  us  at  Finlandia,  an  inviting 
village  with  a  population  of  about  four  hundred,  and  situ- 
ated at  an  elevation  of  six  thousand  four  hundred  feet. 
All  this  country  is  the  foot-hills  of  the  Central  Andean 
Range.  Rounded  hills  follow  one  another  in  a  succession  of 
gentle  billows,  the  sides  of  which  are  so  gradual  that  one 
hardly  realizes  there  is  a  steady  ascent.  The  forest  that 
covers  the  ridge  on  the  other  side  of  Finlandia  is  of  a  heavy, 
subtropical  character — the  first  of  its  kind  we  had  encoun- 
tered on  this  trip.  Red  howling  monkeys  were  roaring  in 
the  ravine  below,  but  the  birds  of  the  forest  belonged  to  a 
fauna  different  from  the  one  we  had  just  left. 

The  palm-filled  valley  of  the  Boquilla  had  been  reached 
by  night.  Salento,  with  its  low,  whitewashed  houses,  was 
clearly  visible  on  top  of  the  next  ridge.  It  required  just 
thirty  minutes  next  morning  to  reach  the  town  after  a 
climb  of  nine  hundred  feet.  We  did  not  stop  at  the  settle- 
ment, but  continued  up  the  time-honored  trail  leading  to 
Quindio  Pass;  within  a  short  time  forest  of  the  most  promis- 
ing kind  had  been  reached  and  camp  was  being  made  in  a 
sheltered  spot  about  half  a  mile  above  a  lone  house  called 
Laguneta.  The  pack-animals  were  sent  back  to  Salento, 
where  there  was  an  abundance  of  pasturage,  until  they 
should  be  required  again. 


50  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  woods  at  Laguneta  were  rather  open  and  there  was 
little  underbrush.  The  trees,  however,  were  burdened 
with  moss,  bromelias,  orchids,  and  other  epiphytes.  Climb- 
ing bamboo  and  creepers  filled  the  few  clearings  with  im- 
penetrable thickets.  Most  of  the  vegetation  had  small, 
harsh  leaves,  and  the  stems  were  gnarled  and  stunted. 
Clusters  of  fruit  resembling  pokeberries,  on  which  numer- 
ous species  of  birds  fed,  grew  on  tall  bushes  near  the  for- 
est's edge.  Begonias  covered  with  red  and  white  flowers 
filled  the  hollows. 

The  Laguneta  region  was  remarkable  for  the  number  of 
ant-birds  found  there  (Grallaria,  Chamceza,  etc.)  that  are 
rare  in  collections  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  collecting 
them.  We  secured  fifteen  different  species  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. As  they  live  in  thickets  and  on  the  ground,  the 
only  knowledge  one  has  of  their  presence  is  their  strange 
whistling  notes,  distinct  in  each  species,  that  come  from 
some  gloomy  spot  deep  in  the  tangled  vegetation.  Gral- 
laria  squamigera  was  to  me  the  most  interesting  species. 
It  is  a  huge,  heavy-bodied  bird,  olive  above  and  tawny 
barred  with  black  below.  From  a  distance  the  coloration 
reminds  one  of  a  large  immature  robin,  but  the  tail  is  very 
short  and  protrudes  only  about  half  an  inch  beyond  the 
lower  coverts,  and  the  long  legs  measure  fully  five  inches. 
The  plumage  is  long  and  full.  Occasionally  we  saw  the 
shy  creatures  as  we  worked  in  front  of  our  tent  in  the  after- 
noons; we  always  made  it  a  point  to  be  very  quiet  and  the 
reward  came  in  the  way  of  shadowy  forms  that  unconcern- 
edly pursued  their  lives  among  the  logs  and  brush  without 
suspecting  our  presence.  This  shows  the  advantage  of 
camping  in  the  midst  of  the  wilderness,  where  one  is  sure  to 
see  and  hear  wild  things  at  the  most  unexpected  times — 
experiences  that  are  lost  if  one  does  not  spend  his  entire 
time  in  the  very  heart  of  their  environs. 

Squirrel  Woods  is  the  name  we  applied  to  a  spot  below 
Laguneta  and  several  miles  nearer  to  Salento.  On  the  up- 
ward journey  the  place  had  been  singled  out  as  being  un- 


CARTAGO  TO  RUIZ  AND  SANTA  ISABEL  51 

usually  attractive  for  a  week's  collecting,  owing  to  the 
number  of  birds  and  particularly  of  squirrels  seen  from  the 
trail.  This,  however,  proved  to  be  the  one  place  in  all 
Colombia  where  we  were  not  welcome,  and  in  this  regard 
it  is  unique  in  my  two  years7  experience  in  that  country. 

After  leaving  the  Quindio  trail  we  followed  a  narrow  path 
through  fields  and  forest  for  nearly  a  mile.  It  led  to  a 
neat,  new  cottage  surrounded  by  pastures  in  which  there 
were  cattle  and  horses.  The  owner  and  his  wife,  middle- 
aged  Colombians  of  the  mestizo  class,  but  of  better  appear- 
ance than  the  average,  did  not  seem  overjoyed  to  see  us; 
they  had  no  room,  they  said,  for  strangers.  Explanations 
%and  the  display  of  credentials  bearing  flaring,  important- 
looking  seals  were  of  no  avail;  the  people  did  not  care  to 
have  the  drowsy  tenor  of  their  ways  disturbed  by  a  couple 
of  gringos.  The  region,  however,  was  too  alluring  to  fore- 
go, so  we  camped  beside  the  house  and  took  possession  of 
the  veranda  for  sleeping-quarters.  There  we  remained  a 
week,  much  to  the  displeasure  of  our  unwilling  hosts. 

We  had  supposed  that  the  presence  of  a  wheat-field  sur- 
rounded by  primeval  forest  had  led  to  an  increase  in  the 
number  of  small  mammals  indigenous  to  the  region,  but 
this  assumption  proved  right  in  so  far  as  squirrels  only  were 
concerned.  A  granary  had  been  built  in  the  centre  of  the 
clearing,  which  was  of  considerable  extent;  bundles  of  grain 
were  piled  in  it  from  floor  to  roof.  Squirrels  of  three  spe- 
cies came  from  the  woods,  and  ensconcing  themselves  in 
the  structure  feasted  on  the  wheat.  They  ran  the  entire 
distance  between  the  forest  and  the  house  on  the  ground, 
taking  advantage,  however,  of  any  logs  or  branches  that 
littered  the  place.  They  were  especially  plentiful  in  the 
early  morning  and  just  before  sundown.  If  one  crept  cau- 
tiously to  the  border  of  the  field  he  was  sure  to  see  dark 
little  forms  scamper  over  the  ground  and  disappear  in  the 
storehouse.  The  animals  were  very  tame  at  first  and  did 
not  leave  their  shelter  until  one  was  but  a  few  yards  away; 
then  they  appeared  on  all  sides  and  ran  quickly  to  the  pro- 


52  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

tecting  woods.  Later  they  posted  a  sentinel  or  remained 
on  the  alert,  for  no  sooner  did  we  reach  one  side  of  the 
clearing  than  all  the  squirrels  hurried  away  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  being  careful  to  keep  the  granary  between  them- 
selves and  us.  There  were  many  stray  dogs  in  the  neigh- 
borhood; they  pursued  the  squirrels  while  making  their 
pilgrimage  across  the  open  space,  and  devoured  any  they 
succeeded  in  catching. 

There  were  also  other  marauders  that  exacted  a  heavy 
toll  in  grain  from  the  farmer.  Yellow-throated  woodpeck- 
ers (Melanerpes  flavigularis)  and  green  and  yellow  jays 
(Xanthoura  yncas)  were  always  about  and  frequently  came 
to  grief  in  our  traps  set  for  small  rodents. 

A  species  of  pigmy  opossum  (Thylamys  caucce)  lived  in 
the  woods.  It  is  the  size  of  a  mouse,  but  has  a  longer  tail. 
The  slate-colored  little  animals  prefer  small  cavities  in  tree- 
trunks  for  their  homes,  where  they  spend  the  days  curled 
up  in  sleep ;  if  disturbed  they  are  very  sluggish  and  may  be 
taken  in  the  hand,  their  only  concern  being  to  find  a  dark 
spot  where  they  can  snuggle  up  to  one  another  and  go  to 
sleep  again.  At  night  they  are  more  active  and  go  on 
foraging  expeditions  for  fruit,  insects,  and  almost  anything 
of  an  edible  nature  they  can  find. 

The  camp  pet  at  this  time  was  a  young  sloth  (Cholcepus 
andinus).  The  slow-moving  little  beast  reminded  one  of  a 
"  Teddy  Bear,"  and  when  it  clambered  among  the  branches 
of  a  tree  it  always  recalled  to  me  Hudson's  description  to 
the  effect  that  he  "hugged  the  branches  as  if  he  loved 
them."  Our  pet  had  been  brought  in  by  a  native  hunter 
who  had  shot  the  mother  and  found  the  young  one  clinging 
to  her  long,  gray  hair.  It  was  easy  to  handle  owing  to  its 
inactivity,  but  occasionally  it  struck  viciously  with  its  front 
feet,  each  armed  with  two  formidable  claws,  and  also 
snapped  suddenly  in  an  attempt  to  bite,  its  strong  teeth 
enabling  it  to  inflict  severe  injury.  It  ate  quantities  of 
tender  green  leaves  at  regular  intervals,  but  it  was  always 
necessary  to  first  sprinkle  them  liberally  with  water  and 


CARTAGO  TO  RUIZ  AND  SANTA  ISABEL  53 

then  feed  them  to  the  little  creature  one  at  a  time  and  in 
quick  succession.  I  have  kept  a  number  of  sloths  at  various 
times  and  found  that  they  thrived  on  young  shoots  and 
buds  of  many  trees  and  plants,  such  as  cacao,  cabbage, 
lettuce,  and  almost  any  succulent  vegetation. 

I  know  of  no  animal  that  appears  more  stupid  and  lifeless 
than  a  sloth.  They  move  with  great  difficulty  and  in  a 
sprawling  posture  on  the  rare  occasions  when  they  descend 
to  the  ground,  on  account  of  the  peculiar  formation  of  the 
feet;  nor  do  they  attain  any  great  speed  while  moving  in 
the  tree-tops,  where  they  always  maintain  an  inverted  posi- 
tion except  when  climbing  up  or  down  a  trunk.  When 
resting  they  roll  up  into  a  ball,  and  as  a  species  of  green 
alga  not  infrequently  grows  on  the  fur,  they  are  very  in- 
conspicuous among  the  leaves  and  moss-covered  branches 
of  their  home — at  least  when  viewed  from  below.  But 
from  above  they  do  not  always  escape  the  sharp  eye  of  the 
harpy-eagle,  which  is  their  chief  enemy. 

In  spite  of  its  lifeless  appearance,  it  would  be  difficult  to 
find  a  mammal  more  tenacious  of  life;  in  this  respect  it 
resembles  the  reptiles.  Sloths  will  withstand  the  most 
frightful  wounds  and  frequently  make  their  escape  after 
having  been  shot  many  times.  The  natives  are  very  fond 
of  the  flesh  and  not  infrequently  capture  the  animals  when 
cutting  down  trees  in  clearing  land;  a  favorite  way  to  kill 
them  is  by  drowning,  but  this  is  a  lengthy  and  barbarous 
process,  as  it  requires  a  long  submergence  before  the  crea- 
tures cease  struggling  and  life  is  extinct. 

People  of  the  lower  class  attribute  peculiar  powers  to 
the  sloth.  They  say  that  when  one  of  the  animals  finds  it 
necessary  to  descend  to  the  ground  it  is  unable  to  climb 
back  to  its  lofty  perch;  but  a  friendly  cloud  is  always  hov- 
ering near  by  which  envelops  it  and  carries  it  back  to  any 
desired  station  in  the  tree-tops.  In  some  localities  they 
also  attribute  the  wild  call  of  the  giant  goatsucker  to  the 
sloth,  The  only  time  I  heard  the  latter  utter  any  sound 
was  when  a  mother  called  to  her  young  that  was  a  few  feet 


54  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

away;  she  gave  a  fairly  loud  'peep'  and  her  offspring  at 
once  went  to  her. 

After  a  time  our  work  at  Squirrel  Woods  was  completed, 
so,  much  to  the  relief  of  the  inhospitable  couple,  we  left  the 
place  and  returned  to  Salento,  where  we  had  better  fortune 
and  were  well  cared  for  by  one  Colonel  Martinez;  his  wife 
had  come  from  Bogota,  was  a  well-educated  woman,  and, 
what  interested  us  more  just  then,  was  a  splendid  cook. 
The  family  conducted  a  fairly  good  posada  and  shop  and 
had  various  other  business  interests,  including  several 
worthless  mining  claims  along  streams  flowing  into  the 
Quindio  River  just  below.  A  few  excavations  had  been 
made  into  the  hillsides;  the  largest  was  known  as  La  Mina 
del  Gallo  and  had  yielded  hundreds  of  tons  of  rocks  and 
earth;  but  as  not  a  speck  of  the  elusive  yellow  metal  they 
so  eagerly  sought  had  been  forthcoming,  the  mine  had 
been  abandoned,  and  owls  and  bats  inhabited  the  dark  tun- 
nel. The  greater  part  of  the  mining  population  had  de- 
serted Salento  for  a  place  about  ten  miles  distant,  where 
extensive  cinnabar-fields  had  been  discovered.  They  ex- 
pected to  acquire  fabulous  riches  extracting  the  mercury 
from  the  deposits.  Some  Englishmen  headed  by  a  man 
named  Lloyd-Owen  were  also  interested  in  the  enterprise, 
but  I  learned  later  that  the  prospect  failed. 

At  dusk  we  occasionally  had  a  brief  view  of  the  Nevado 
del  Tolima  far  to  the  east.  The  snow-capped  summit  is 
over  eighteen  thousand  feet  high,  but  we  could  never  see 
more  than  a  small  portion  of  it  on  account  of  the  ridges 
that  surrounded  it.  At  night  the  snowy  dome  gleamed 
white  and  frosty  beneath  a  brilliant  moon,  and  chill  winds 
blew  from  the  frigid  heights  and  roared  through  the  town. 
The  paramos  of  Ruiz  and  Isabel,  composed  of  high,  cold 
valleys,  plateaus,  and  snow-covered  peaks  are  south  of  the 
Tolima.  We  straightway  resolved  to  visit  that  region,  and 
as  the  rainy  season  with  its  severe  electrical  storms  was  fast 
approaching,  no  time  was  lost  in  starting  on  the  expedition. 
My  experience  on  the  Cerro  Munchique  was  still  too  fresh 


CARTAGO  TO  RUIZ  AND  SANTA  ISABEL          55 

to  make  me  want  to  duplicate  it  or  expose  any  other  mem- 
bers of  the  party  to  a  similar  ordeal. 

September  12  found  us  wending  our  way  along  the  Quin- 
dio  River  toward  its  headwaters.  The  valley  floor  is  cov- 
ered with  grass  that  is  kept  close-cropped  by  cattle  and 
horses.  Low  shrubbery  grows  along  the  river-bank;  the 
stream — not  over  one  hundred  feet  wide — is  clear  and  swift 
and  the  icy  water  rushes  over  a  boulder-strewn  bed.  A 
scattered  growth  of  tall  palms  dots  the  entire  valley  and 
extends  up  the  mountainsides  to  an  elevation  of  about 
nine  thousand  five  hundred  feet. 

The  trail  is  so  indistinct  that  Allen  and  I,  who  were  rid- 
ing in  advance  of  the  pack-mules,  lost  it  and  spent  two 
hours  in  a  vain  endeavor  to  recover  the  way;  then  we  saw 
the  cargoes  and  peons  far  below,  resembling  moving  black 
dots,  and  hurriedly  rejoined  them  just  as  they  were  leav- 
ing the  valley  for  the  abrupt  slope.  The  trail  from  here 
onward  was  steep  and  rough.  Before  us  stretched  a  seem- 
ingly endless  succession  of  ridges,  farallones,  tall  rocks,  and 
high  precipices  that  reach  a  climax  in  the  brown  paramo 
of  Santa  Isabel,  backed  by  walls  of  gleaming  snow.  In 
looking  back  over  the  way  we  had  just  come  we  could  see 
the  Quindio  and  the  thousands  of  palms  growing  in  its  val- 
ley spread  before  us  like  a  map. 

The  lower  slopes  were  barren,  having  but  recently  been 
burned  over;  fire  was  still  raging  in  a  number  of  places  and 
the  hissing  and  popping  of  burning  vegetation  could  be 
heard  frequently  with  distinctness.  Tall,  smouldering 
stumps  were  clustered  here  and  there  like  blackened  chim- 
neys from  the  tops  of  which  wisps  and  columns  of  smoke 
ascended  into  a  hazy  sky.  The  pungent  odor  of  burning 
green  plants  was  at  times  almost  suffocating. 

Forest  begins  at  nine  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  It  is 
at  first  somewhat  open  and  reminded  us  of  Laguneta.  The 
rich  mould  of  the  forest  floor  was  very  deep  and  caused  us 
much  anxiety  lest  some  of  the  pack-animals  be  lost,  for 
they  sank  into  it  to  a  great  depth,  and  there  was  constant 


56  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

danger  of  their  floundering  and  pitching  headlong  down 
the  mountainside.  The  arrieros  took  the  utmost  precau- 
tions, but  even  then  one  of  the  mules  became  overbalanced 
and  fell  off  the  trail.  Fortunately  the  trees  grew  close  to- 
gether and  one  of  the  packs  became  wedged  between  two 
of  them  and  halted  the  rolling  creature  a  short  distance 
below.  It  struggled  there  with  feet  in  the  air  until  the 
peons  released  it  and  led  it  back  to  the  trail. 

Toward  evening  we  reached  a  native  hut — the  second 
since  leaving  the  valley.  The  elevation  of  the  place  was 
ten  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  A  large  clearing  in  which 
white  clover  grew  abundantly  surrounded  the  house.  The 
inhabitants  also  had  other  clearings  farther  down,  where 
they  planted  corn  and  wheat.  They  were  all  suffering  with 
colds  and  the  dreaded  dengue,  from  which  I  was  fortunately 
able  to  give  them  some  relief  with  the  aid  of  our  medical 
kit.  In  return  for  this  service  they  treated  us  most  courte- 
ously and  placed  one  of  their  two  rooms  at  our  disposal, 
although  it  happened  that  a  score  or  more  of  chickens 
occupied  the  same  quarters.  The  night  was  cold  and 
damp.  Next  morning  the  wretched  people  gave  us  milk 
and  cheese  and  we  purchased  several  dozen  eggs — certainly 
a  great  luxury  in  such  an  out-of-the-way  place.  They  also 
showed  us  the  skin  and  feet  of  a  tapir  one  of  the  men  had 
killed  in  the  forest  above.  The  hide  had  been  used  to 
make  bottoms  for  chairs  and  was  of  a  black  color.  They 
reported  the  presence  of  two  species  of  bears,  one  entirely 
black  and  the  other  the  tolerably  well-known  spectacled 
bear.  Although  the  latter  is  the  only  species  of  bear  sup- 
posed to  exist  in  South  America,  I  have  been  told  repeat- 
edly by  the  people  that  a  large  black  bear  is  found  in  the 
high  Andes  and  have  seen  skins  that  appeared  to  bear  out 
their  statements. 

After  leaving  the  house  next  morning  we  soon  reached 
heavy  mountain  forest.  A  deserted  hut  stood  near  the 
border  of  it,  so  on  our  return  from  the  paramo  we  spent 
several  days  there.  The  chief  attraction  about  the  place 


CARTAGO  TO  RUIZ  AND  SANTA  ISABEL          57 

was  the  abundance  of  white-throated  sparrows  (Brachy- 
spiza  capensis  capensis).  Their  cheerful  little  song  cannot 
fail  to  endear  them  to  any  one  with  even  a  limited  aesthetic 
nature.  Whether  one  hears  it  in  the  hot,  tropical  low- 
lands or  on  a  bleak  mountain-top  twelve  thousand  feet 
above  sea-level,  the  happy  little  melody  is  always  the  same. 
Nor  is  the  music  confined  to  the  hours  of  daylight  only.  I 
have  frequently  heard  it  in  the  darkest  hours  of  night,  ring- 
ing clear  and  sweet  from  somewhere  out  in  the  all-pervad- 
ing blackness.  These  birds  are  fond  of  the  proximity  of 
man  and  are  most  abundant  where  he  has  chosen  to  break 
the  soil  and  erect  his  abode.  As  a  general  rule  they  are 
not  gregarious,  but  I  have  seen  them  congregate  in  flocks 
of  many  thousands  to  spend  the  night  in  some  particularly 
attractive  spot  in  places  where  sleeping  sites  were  limited 
in  number.  Farther  south  these  sparrows  also  gather  in 
flocks  of  varying  size  during  the  winter  season. 

The  nest  is  a  neat,  cup-shaped  structure  made  of  fine 
grasses;  it  is  placed  in  a  low  bush  or  on  the  ground.  Two 
or  three  pale-blue  eggs  thickly  spotted  with  brown  are  laid 
and  not  infrequently  two  broods  are  reared  in  a  season. 

During  our  stay  at  the  solitary  house  on  the  edge  of  the 
great  forest  a  white-throat  or  chingolo  came  daily  and 
perched  on  the  bannister  of  our  porch  to  pour  out  its  over- 
flow of  happiness.  We  grew  very  much  attached  to  the 
confiding  feathered  mite  and  eagerly  awaited  its  frequent 
visits.  After  a  short  time  I  discovered  the  runway  of 
some  small  rodent  under  the  porch  and  set  a  trap  to  catch 
the  animal.  Not  long  after  we  heard  the  dull  snap  of  the 
spring,  and  upon  investigation  found  the  limp  body  of  the 
unfortunate  songster.  The  place  seemed  deserted  without 
the  sprightly  little  bird  and  we  never  ceased  to  miss  it. 

The  belt  of  forest  through  which  we  penetrated  before 
reaching  the  paramo  was  magnificent.  A  species  of  orchid 
bearing  long  spikes  of  yellow  flowers  was  in  full  bloom; 
there  were  many  hundreds  of  the  thick-leaved  plants,  some 
perched  on  lofty  branches,  others  growing  from  crotches 


58  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

but  a  few  feet  above  the  ground,  but  all  surmounted  by  a 
glorious  halo  of  golden  blossoms. 

We  left  the  forest  with  its  giant  moss-covered  trees,  en- 
snaring creepers,  and  breathless  silence  that  suggests  a 
thousand  mysteries,  at  about  noon.  It  ends  abruptly  and 
is  replaced  by  a  narrow  strip  of  low,  dwarfed  trees  and 
bushes  with  small  leaves  that  are  either  very  stiff  or  are 
covered  with  thick  down.  There  were  also  clumps  of  blue- 
berry-bushes, but  the  fruit  was  woody,  bitter  and  inedible 
for  human  beings.  Lupines  and  gentians  grew  in  the  hol- 
lows and  numerous  composites  thrived  on  the  slopes;  among 
the  latter  was  one  with  showy  purple  flowers  that  the  peons 
called  "arnica." 

After  a  stiff  climb  of  an  hour  we  gained  the  summit  of  a 
rise;  the  whole  panorama  of  the  paramo  was  spread  out 
before  us — a  marvellous  series  of  brown  plateaus,  sunken 
valleys  with  tiny  rivulets  meandering  through  them,  and 
stern  ridges  dotted  with  blackened,  rocky  peaks.  The 
snow-fields  of  the  higher  altitudes  were  entirely  obliterated 
by  banks  of  cold,  gray  clouds. 

The  word  paramo  means  an  elevated  plain,  barren  of 
trees,  uncultivated,  uninhabited,  and  exposed  to  the  icy 
blasts  of  wind  from  the  higher  elevations.  This  description 
exactly  fitted  the  country  before  us.  We  descended  into 
one  of  the  valleys,  at  the  head  of  which  lay  a  placid  lake  of 
small  size,  and  made  camp  at  the  base  of  one  of  the  pro- 
tecting walls  of  rock  that  flanked  it.  The  elevation  of  the 
valley  is  about  twelve  thousand  seven  hundred  feet,  and 
the  main  peaks  of  the  range  hemming  in  the  paramo  rise 
to  a  height  of  sixteen  thousand  feet  or  more. 

Long,  wiry  grass  covered  the  valley  floor;  the  top  was 
bent  over,  forming  a  billowy  expanse  of  brown,  variegated 
here  and  there  with  a  diminutive  patch  of  green.  Lifting 
any  one  of  the  tufts  disclosed  a  labyrinth  of  tunnels  and 
runways  apparently  made  by  small  mammals;  but,  strange 
to  say,  we  saw  a  small  number  only  of  rabbits,  and  few  rats 
came  to  our  traps.  If  the  network  of  tunnels  harbored 


The  lake  on  the  paramo  of  Santa  Isabel. 


Snow  on  the  paramo  of  Ruiz. 


CARTAGO  TO  RUIZ  AND  SANTA  ISABEL          59 

other  creatures,  they  effectively  succeeded  in  evading  our 
every  effort  to  discover  them.  Probably  the  denizens  of 
this  underworld  had  learned  the  value  of  extreme  caution 
and  wariness  because  numbers  of  eagles  (Lophotriorchis) 
were  always  soaring  overhead  ready  to  pounce  down  on 
any  of  them  that  for  an  instant  relaxed  their  vigil 

A  large  part  of  the  soil  was  springy  beneath  our  step;  it 
was  undermined  by  numberless  rivulets  which  trickled 
from  the  dopes  and  made  their  way  to  the  stream  in  the 
centre  of  the  valley.  These  wet  places  were  covered  with 
extensive  areas  of  daisy-like  plants  having  clumps  or  ro- 
settes of  stiff  leaves;  the  squat,  green  hummocks  were 
strong  enough  to  support  one's  weight,  but  walking  over 
them  was  always  accompanied  by  the  feeling  that  they 
might  give  way  suddenly  and  precipitate  one  into  the  deep 
mire.  Sphagnum  flourished  along  the  edges  of  the  marsh 
where  it  was  not  too  wet. 

The  peculiar,  gray,  mullein-like  plant  called  frattejon 
thrives  in  rocky  places  that  were  sheltered  to  some  extent; 
but  chimps  of  the  plants  also  braved  the  open,  wind-swept 
slopes  and  grew  to  the  very  edge  of  the  snow-fields. 

The  heavy,  orchid-laden  forest  through  which  we  punned 
just  before  reaching  the  paramo  encroached  upon  the  val- 
ley's lower  end,  but  for  a  short  distance  only.  There  were 
well-worn  trails  made  by  tapirs  and  deer  that  came  nightly 
to  feed  on  the  abundant  grass,  for  despite  the  dry  and  with- 
ered appearance  of  the  upper  layer  there  was  a  deep  carpet 
of  tender  green  shoots  underneath. 

There  was  an  abundance  of  birds  on  the  paramo,  espe- 
cially along  the  bush-grown  banks  of  the  streamlet;  but  all 
were  of  dufl  colors — slaty  blue,  gray,  black,  or  deep  brown, 
that  harmonized  well  with  the  bleak  surroundings.  Their 
habits  reminded  us  of  open-country  birds  of  the  northern 
United  States.  Gray  flycatchers  ran  over  the  ground;  at 
frequent  intervals  they  mounted  high  in  the  air,  like  horned 
larks,  for  which  we  at  first  from  a  distance  mistook  than. 
A  small  wren-like  bird,  black  with  brown  flanks  (Scytalopus 


60  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

sylvestris),  lived  in  the  taller  herbage.  It  had  a  piping  note 
that  could  be  clearly  heard  fifty  yards  away,  but  the  agile 
bird  was  hard  to  see  on  account  of  its  obscure  color  and 
mouse-like  habits  that  kept  it  constantly  in  the  thickest 
cover.  Numerous  marsh-wrens  (Cistothorus  cequatorialis)  in- 
habited the  sedges,  scolding  and  nervously  flitting  about. 

More  interesting  than  the  foregoing,  however,  were  large 
Andean  snipe  (Gallinago  nobilis)  bearing  at  least. a  super- 
ficial resemblance  to  the  American  woodcock.  Single  in- 
dividuals or  pairs  of  these  birds  were  found  running  over 
the  bogs  and  drilling  in  the  soft  earth.  In  many  places  the 
ground  was  perforated  with  dozens  of  the  deep,  symmetri- 
cal holes  where  the  tireless  workers  had  labored  diligently 
for  a  meal.  Shooting  them  was  good  sport.  They  sprang 
into  the  air  with  a  piping  bleat  and  then  sped  away  in  a 
zigzag  course  for  fifty  or  a  hundred  yards,  dropped  back 
to  earth  and  instantly  merged  into  their  surroundings  so 
completely  as  to  be  invisible. 

The  finches  were  perhaps  better  represented  than  any 
other  family  of  birds.  A  few  goldfinches,  in  small  bands, 
frequented  the  flowering  shrubs.  A  kind  of  slaty  finch 
(Phrygilus  unicolor  grandis)  was  far  more  abundant  and 
fairly  evenly  distributed  over  the  entire  paramo.  We  dis- 
covered a  nest  of  this  species  among  the  grass  at  the  base 
of  a  frailejon;  the  structure  was  beautifully  made  of  down 
taken  from  the  leaves  of  the  plants  that  sheltered  it.  It 
contained  two  pear-shaped  eggs  of  a  greenish  color  heavily 
speckled  with  fine  dull-brown  dots. 

From  a  distance  the  small  lake  at  the  head  of  the  valley 
appeared  to  be  a  promising  field  for  investigation.  It 
yielded,  however,  but  a  solitary  Andean  teal  greatly  resem- 
bling the  gad  wall  (Chaulelasmus) ,  that  was  swimming  on 
the  unruffled  water,  and  when  this  had  been  taken  our 
work  in  that  particular  spot  was  completed.  The  bottom 
of  the  pond  was  covered  with  a  solid  mass  of  long  algce  far 
out  as  we  could  see;  these  concealed  any  aquatic  life  that 
may  have  existed  in  the  chilly  depths. 


CARTAGO  TO  RUIZ  AND  SANTA  ISABEL          61 

The  weather  was  usually  agreeable  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  day,  the  thermometer  registering  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  76°  at  noon,  and  dropping  to  30°  at  night.  It 
rained  little,  but  banks  of  clouds  rolled  in  frequently  and 
precipitated  a  superabundance  of  moisture. 

One  day  Allen  and  I  undertook  an  exploration  trip  to  the 
snow-line.  We  started  at  daybreak,  taking  with  us  our 
guns,  an  abundant  supply  of  ammunition,  cameras,  and  a 
small  parcel  of  lunch.  We  made  straight  for  the  head  of 
the  valley,  passed  the  lake,  and  had  soon  reached  the  top 
of  the  weathered  ridge  that  formed  the  first  barrier  to  our 
progress.  From  the  summit,  fourteen  thousand  four  hun- 
dred feet  up,  we  could  see  numerous  other  isolated  depres- 
sions like  the  one  we  had  just  left;  in  one  of  them  was  a 
newly  made  trench — probably  the  work  of  some  venture- 
some miner  who  had  drifted  to  this  lonely  place  in  search  of 
gold.  So  far  we  had  had  not  a  glimpse  of  snow  on  ac- 
count of  the  heavy  mist.  We  followed  along  the  top  of  a 
hogback  running  northward  and  gradually  leading  to  higher 
country  that  flattened  out  into  a  marshy  plateau  on  its 
farther  end.  Progress  was  difficult.  At  each  step  the  bog 
quivered  within  a  radius  of  several  yards  and  the  clumps  of 
matted  vegetation  depressed  by  our  weight  were  quickly 
covered  with  water  that  oozed  from  below.  This  was  an 
ideal  spot  for  snipe  and  several  sprang  up  as  we  painfully 
picked  our  way  over  the  treacherous  ground;  but  the  great 
exertion  and  high  altitude  had  a  demoralizing  effect  on  our 
aim,  with  the  result  that  we  were  relieved  of  a  good  deal  of 
ammunition  without  securing  a  single  bird  in  return. 

A  high  wall  of  bare  rock  rose  just  beyond  the  confines  of 
the  bog,  and  gaining  the  top  of  it  we  were  up  fifteen  thou- 
sand feet.  It  was  covered  with  blackened  rock  fragments 
—mostly  the  result  of  weathering,  but  some  of  them  prob- 
ably detached  from  the  many  towering  crags  and  columns 
by  the  shattering  force  of  lightning.  The  highest  point  in 
the  wall  is  fifteen  thousand  two  hundred  feet.  As  we  rested 
a  moment  to  recover  our  breath,  a  procedure  necessary 


62  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

every  twenty  steps,  the  fog  suddenly  lifted  and  disclosed 
the  snow-bound  slopes  of  Ruiz  a  short  distance  away.  Be- 
tween us  lay  a  valley  flanked  by  perpendicular  walls  of 
rock  and  hundreds  of  feet  deep.  The  snow  apparently  ex- 
tended down  two  hundred  feet  lower  than  our  station, 
making  its  lower  limit  fifteen  thousand  feet. 

We  stood  lost  in  admiration  at  the  marvellous  spectacle 
that  unfolded  itself  before  us.  The  hurrying  curtains  of 
clouds  revealed  ever-changing  scenes.  One  moment  miles 
of  slopes  covered  with  a  white  mantle  of  snow  stood  out  in 
bold  relief;  the  next,  they  were  whisked  from  view  and 
bare  pinnacles  of  dark  rock,  like  the  spires  of  a  cathedral, 
appeared  momentarily  high  above,  their  ragged  outlines 
softened  by  a  veil  of  thin  blue  haze.  Again,  the  lower  edges 
of  the  panorama  came  into  view,  revealing  glaciers  and 
avalanches  of  snow  and  rocks  perched  on  the  brink  of  the 
wall  ready  to  plunge  with  a  boom  into  the  deep  valley. 

The  floor  of  the  valley  was  a  series  of  ponds  and  morasses. 
Ducks  disported  in  the  cold  water,  all  oblivious  of  our 
presence,  and  apparently  safe  in  their,  at  least  to  man,  in- 
accessible retreat.  A  raging  torrent  tore  along  the  base  of 
the  wall,  adding  its  roar  as  a  fitting  accompaniment  to  the 
general  awe-inspiring  character  of  its  desolate  and  inhos- 
pitable surroundings. 

A  whisp  of  vapor  borne  on  a  chill  wind  hurried  across 
the  intervening  chasm  and  blew  into  our  faces.  Time  had 
passed  faster  than  we  realized  and  we  discovered  that  half 
of  the  afternoon  was  gone.  Hurriedly  we  began  to  retrace 
our  steps  along  the  wall  of  rock  and  through  the  treacher- 
ous bog.  By  the  time  the  sharp  ridge  was  reached,  clouds 
in  such  volumes  had  rolled  in  over  the  paramo  that  every- 
thing was  obscured  outside  of  a  radius  of  a  few  yards  from 
us.  There  was  no  trail  of  any  kind,  and  even  the  most 
familiar  rocks  assumed  strange  shapes  swathed  in  the  dank 
vapor.  A  compass  is  useless  under  such  circumstances. 
Before  long  we  reached  the  interlacing  mass  of  ridges  and, 
after  holding  a  consultation,  followed  along  the  top  of  one 


CARTAGO  TO  RUIZ  AND  SANTA  ISABEL  63 

that  seemed  to  lead  in  the  right  direction.  We  stumbled 
along  for  two  hours  or  more,  and  then  realized  that  we 
were  lost.  Darkness  was  fast  approaching  and  a  raw  wind 
swept  down  from  the  region  of  perpetual  ice  and  snow. 
We  began  to  look  for  a  sheltered  spot  in  which  to  spend 
the  night,  for  it  now  seemed  certain  that  each  step  was 
only  taking  us  farther  from  camp.  Just  then  a  rift  in  the 
clouds  appeared,  and  before  it  again  closed  we  caught  sight 
of  a  faint  glimmer  far  below  and  to  the  right.  That  could 
mean  but  one  thing:  it  was  a  reflection  from  the  lake  at 
the  head  of  "our"  valley.  For  more  than  an  hour  we  had 
been  travelling  in  exactly  the  opposite  direction.  We  gave 
up  the  thought  of  a  bed  of  frailejon  leaves  without  regret 
and  stumbled  down  the  steep  slope  straight  for  the  spot 
where  the  lake  had  flashed  into  view.  After  many  col- 
lapses from  thirst  and  fatigue  we  reached  the  brook  with 
its  crystal,  ice-cold  water;  then  progress  was  easier,  and 
within  another  hour  the  glow  of  the  camp-fire  appeared 
through  the  haze,  and  soon  we  were  snugly  ensconced  in  the 
depths  of  our  blankets. 

A  few  days  after  our  journey  to  Ruiz  the  weather  changed 
greatly.  Low-hanging  fogs  covered  the  paramo  day  and 
night;  lightning  flashed  among  the  clouds,  and  frigid  gales 
roared  over  the  plateaus.  These  were  signs  of  the  coining 
winter  and  warned  us  to  leave  the  paramo  before  it  was 
too  late.  Soon  there  would  be  only  snow  and  ice,  pene- 
trating mists,  the  reverberating  roll  of  thunder,  and  blind- 
ing displays  of  electricity.  The  elements  would  be  un- 
leashed and  in  all  their  grandeur,  and  awe-inspiring  fright- 
fulness  take  possession  of  the  upper  world.  Life  would 
then  be  unendurable,  so  we  accepted  the  warning  and  re- 
turned to  Salento. 


CHAPTER  V 

THE  CHOCO  COUNTRY   ON   THE   WESTERN  COAST  OF 

COLOMBIA 

UPON  returning  to  Cartago  from  our  expedition  to  the 
bleak  paramo  of  Santa  Isabel,  we  began  preparations  for  a 
visit  to  the  notorious  Choco,  which  lies  along  the  western 
coast  and  within  the  San  Juan  River  watershed.  This  sec- 
tion of  the  country  presents  the  other  extreme  in  climatic 
conditions.  It  has  been  rarely  visited  by  naturalists  on 
account  of  its  inaccessibility;  and  the  few  who  have  suc- 
ceeded in  forcing  their  way  within  its  inhospitable  borders 
have  found  it  impossible  to  remain  any  length  of  time. 
Malarial  and  yellow  fevers  are  endemic  among  the  natives, 
but  quickly  sap  the  vitality  and  life  of  newcomers  into  the 
region;  ram  falls  daily — four  hundred  inches  being  the 
average  precipitation  for  one  year — and  the  heat  is  so  in- 
tense that  when  the  sun  appears  during  the  intervals  be- 
tween showers  the  whole  jungle  is  converted  into  a  steam- 
ing inferno.  Small  wonder,  then,  that  the  fabulous  wealth 
in  gold  and  platinum  of  the  Choco  has  been  little  more  than 
touched. 

Our  plans  called  for  an  overland  trip  to  Novita  on  the 
Taman£  River;  after  reaching  that  point  local  conditions 
would  have  to  guide  our  subsequent  movements.  Trail 
there  is  none,  but  a  footpath,  often  so  faint  that  it  loses 
itself  among  the  vegetation  or  in  the  beds  of  streams,  serves 
the  purpose  of  partially  guiding  the  stalwart  negro  who 
carries  the  mail  to  Novita  at  infrequent  intervals,  as  well 
as  others  who  undertake  to  cross  the  Western  Range  into 
the  tropical  lowland. 

The  townspeople  of  Cartago  had  heard  a  good  deal,  in  a 
general  way,  about  conditions  existing  in  the  Choco,  but 

64 


THE  CHOCO  COUNTRY  65 

they  could  give  no  information  of  practical  value.  We 
haunted  the  market  and  other  places  where  peons  congre- 
gate in  numbers  in  our  endeavor  to  secure  porters  for  the 
trip.  The  few  who  reluctantly  expressed  a  readiness  to  go 
did  not  seem  physically  fit  for  such  strenuous  work,  so  I 
rejected  them.  One  day  a  caravan  of  oxen  arrived  from 
the  settlement  of  Salencio,  and  I  hastily  engaged  them  for 
the  return  trip,  as  these  animals,  while  slow,  are  sure-footed, 
and  can  pick  their  way  through  mud  and  jungle  that  horses 
could  not  penetrate. 

Leaving  Cartago,  we  crossed  the  arid  Cauca  Valley;  the 
land  west  of  the  river  is  more  rolling  than  on  the  opposite 
bank,  but  the  character  of  the  plant  life  is  much  the  same. 
Within  an  hour  Ansermanueva,  a  cluster  of  twenty  or 
thirty  adobe  hovels,  was  sighted  in  the  distance,  but  the 
trail  divided  just  before  reaching  the  village  and  we  fol- 
lowed the  southern  branch.  Beyond  this  fork  the  climb 
into  the  mountains  began;  there  are  two  ridges,  six  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  feet  and  seven  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  high  respectively,  with  a  ravine  of  five  thousand  eight 
hundred  feet  between.  The  " cloud"  forest  does  not  begin 
below  the  top  of  the  first  ridge;  then  there  is  an  abundance 
of  mosses,  ferns,  bromelias  and  other  epiphytes  forming  a 
growth  that  is  both  rank  and  beautiful,  and  equalling  in 
density  that  found  in  any  other  region.  The  greater  lux- 
uriance of  the  flora  on  the  western  slope  indicated  a  heav- 
ier rainfall  on  that  side;  this  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact 
that  the  summits  of  the  various  ridges  stop  the  moisture- 
laden  winds  from  the  Pacific,  to  a  large  extent,  and  cause 
them  to  precipitate  the  water  on  the  ocean  side  of  the  divide. 

Within  two  days  we  arrived  at  Salencio,  small,  dilapi- 
dated, situated  on  a  little  plateau  between  the  peaks,  and 
inhabited  mainly  by  half-breeds.  We  were  advised  to  wait 
until  the  weekly  market-day,  when  many  people  from  the 
surroundings  would  come  to  town,  and  it  would  be  possi- 
ble to  secure  porters  for  the  continuation  of  the  journey. 
In  the  meantime  we  made  short  excursions  into  the  neigh- 


66  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

boring  forest;  they  yielded  several  novelties,  among  them 
a  splendid  example  of  the  military  macaw  (Ara  m.  mill- 
tans).  This  gorgeously  colored  bird  is  rare,  indeed,  and 
we  have  never  seen  more  than  two  at  the  same  time.  Spec- 
tacled bears  were  said  to  be  common  and  to  come  to  the 
clearings  when  corn  is  ripe;  the  number  of  pelts  exhibited 
by  the  inhabitants  amply  verified  their  assertion. 

When  Sunday  came,  and  with  it  the  gathering  of  people 
always  present  when  market  is  held,  we  had  no  trouble  in 
engaging  the  required  peons,  each  of  whom  agreed  to  carry 
a  pack  of  seventy-five  pounds.  Early  the  next  morning 
they  appeared,  eager  and  ready  for  their  undertaking. 
They  shouldered  their  loads  and  started  away  at  a  fast 
gait,  while  we  brought  up  the  rear  of  the  column  to  pre- 
vent straggling. 

The  way  lay  across  a  low,  forested  ridge,  and  then  ad- 
hered closely  to  the  bamboo-covered  banks  of  a  small 
stream  called  locally  Rio  Cabeceros  or  Rio  Vueltas,  but 
which  is  really  the  headwaters  of  the  Sipi  River.  At  one 
time  we  waded  in  the  knee-deep  water  a  distance  of  over 
three  miles,  as  it  was  easier  than  to  force  a  way  through 
the  matted  plant  life  on  either  side.  I  soon  discovered  that 
the  porters  did  not  possess  the  endurance  of  those  we  had 
previously  employed  on  other  expeditions,  and  I  believe 
this  was  due  to  the  fact  that  the  use  of  coca  leaves  is  un- 
known in  this  part  of  Colombia.  Whenever  our  peons  had 
an  abundance  of  coca  to  chew  they  seemed  tireless  in  the 
performance  of  their  work;  those  not  given  to  the  habit 
required  large  and  frequent  meals,  ate  panela  all  day  long 
as  they  marched,  and  were  capable  of  covering  a  short  dis- 
tance only  in  the  course  of  a  day's  walk.  We  were  com- 
pelled to  halt  early  and  chose  the  top  of  a  knoll  for  a  camp- 
ing site. 

A  steady  downpour  of  rain  had  fallen  the  entire  after- 
noon, which  continued  throughout  the  night,  and  this, 
coupled  with  the  severe  cold  (the  elevation  being  seven 
thousand  two  hundred  feet)  and  the  desirability  of  pre- 


THE  CHOCO  COUNTRY  67 

paring  hot  food,  caused  us  to  long  for  the  comforts  of  a 
huge  camp-fire.  Dry  wood  was  out  of  the  question,  but 
the  men  cut  down  a  tree,  the  green  wood  of  which  burned 
readily,  and  had  soon  started  a  fire  adequate  for  working 
purposes.  Their  ponchos,  which  had  become  saturated 
with  water,  were  of  no  service  in  keeping  them  warm,  so 
they  sat  up  the  entire  night,  singing,  telling  stories,  and 
drinking  hot  coffee  in  their  endeavors  to  remain  cheerful 
and  keep  warm. 

On  the  following  day  the  vegetation  was  far  more  dense, 
and  advantage  was  taken  of  numerous  narrow  fissures  in 
the  mountainside  roofed  over  with  logs  and  moss;  through 
these  tunnels  we  crawled  on  hands  and  knees,  but  that 
was  easier  than  forcing  a  way  through  the  tangled  mass  of 
plants  growing  above.  When  camp  was  made  that  night 
the  base  of  a  tree  was  selected  for  a  fireplace.  At  first 
glance  it  seemed  that  the  diameter  of  the  vine-covered 
trunk  must  be  at  least  ten  feet,  but  this  was  a  delusion. 
After  the  men  had  vigorously  plied  their  machetes  on  the 
creepers,  moss,  and  ferns,  a  stem  not  over  two  feet  across 
was  revealed;  they  cleared  away  the  lower  tangle,  leaving 
a  protecting  umbrella-like  canopy  overhead  that  shielded 
the  entire  party  from  the  rain  while  they  cooked  their  food. 

We  crossed  three  ridges  in  all,  the  elevation  of  each  being 
slightly  in  excess  of  seven  thousand  feet,  with  depressions 
of  from  two  thousand  feet  to  three  thousand  feet  between 
them.  All  are  heavily  forested,  the  growth  above  four 
thousand  feet  being  subtropical  in  character,  while  that 
lower  down  is  typical  of  the  tropics  and  comparatively 
open. 

At  the  end  of  the  third  day  we  heard  the  welcome  roar 
of  water,  and  not  long  after  halted  on  the  bank  of  the 
Hdvita  River.  A  naked  negro  came  from  the  far  side  in 
answer  to  our  calls,  and  ferried  us  across  the  stream  in  a 
huge  dugout  canoe.  There  we  found  a  settlement  of  half 
a  dozen  bamboo  huts  filled  with  lazy  negroes  clothed  in 
scanty  attire.  The  place  is  called  El  Puente.  About  one 


68  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

hundred  yards  below  the  group  of  hovels,  the  Havita  is 
joined  by  the  Rio  Ingara.  The  water  of  both  streams  is 
swift,  cool,  and  of  a  bluish-gray  color.  Each  of  the  streams 
is  about  seventy-five  yards  wide  just  above  the  junction. 

After  crossing  another  ridge  which  required  two  days' 
time,  we  reached  Juntas  de  Tamana",  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  HaVita,  a  stone's  throw  above  the  point  where  this 
stream  empties  into  the  Tamana,  and  but  four  hundred 
feet  above  sea-level.  Excepting  only  the  little  clearing  in 
which  the  fifteen  dilapidated  negro  abodes  stand,  the  en- 
tire country  is  covered  with  a  forest  of  tall  trees;  there  is 
little  undergrowth,  but  many  of  the  lower  branches  are 
covered  with  epiphytes,  and  long  vines  or  "forest  ropes" 
dangle  down  from  the  interlocking  tree-tops  to  the  very 
ground. 

The  negroes  of  Juntas  are  a  miserable,  sickly  lot.  They 
suffer  from  lack  of  food,  for  the  simple  reason  that  they  are 
too  indolent  to  grow  in  sufficient  quantities  the  plantains, 
yuccas,  and  other  plants  that  thrive  with  a  minimum  of 
attention  in  such  a  favorable  location.  Instead  of  making 
clearings  and  cultivating  the  fertile  ground,  they  prefer  to 
lounge  in  their  hammocks  and  take  a  chance  at  starving  to 
death.  At  irregular  intervals,  when  the  pinch  of  want  is 
too  great  to  endure  longer,  the  men  paddle  in  canoes  to 
their  fincas  to  cut  sugar-cane,  gather  plantains,  and  to 
pick  palm-nuts  in  the  forest.  Upon  their  return  the  family 
gathers  about  the  food  and  eats  until  not  a  vestige  remains. 
So  effectively  do  they  attack  the  mound  of  provisions  that 
one  might  easily  imagine  a  swarm  of  locusts  had  paid  the 
region  a  visit. 

A  day  or  two  after  our  arrival  at  Juntas  a  two-year-old 
child  belonging  to  one  of  the  families  died.  The  news 
spread  rapidly  and  by  night  the  entire  neighborhood  had 
turned  out  for  a  wake.  We  followed  the  crowd.  The 
baby,  hi  a  white  dress,  with  bright  red  and  green  ribbon 
trimming,  lay  in  a  wooden  box  on  the  table.  A  canopy  of 
muslin  had  been  erected  above  the  bier  which  was  strewn 


THE  CHOCO  COUNTRY  69 

with  wild  flowers.  The  room  was  packed  to  suffocation 
with  the  black  forms  of  the  populace,  which  glistened  in 
the  dim,  flickering  candle-light.  At  first  bottles  of  aguar- 
diente were  distributed,  and  every  one  had  a  number  of 
liberal-sized  drinks.  Then  the  older  folks  withdrew  against 
the  four  walls  and,  squatting  on  the  floor,  sang  or  lamented 
as  fancy  dictated.  The  younger  people  divided  into  two 
parties  and  played  games  around  the  coffin.  One  of  them 
was  a  kind  of  charade  and,  when  the  guessing  side  solved 
the  riddle,  they  pursued  and  caught  the  others,  amid  loud 
shouts  and  laughter.  I  feared  constantly  that  they  might 
upset  the  coffin.  Occasionally  some  one  would  stop  long 
enough  to  pet  or  caress  the  dead  little  form,  and  address 
a  few  terms  of  endearment  to  it,  such  as  pobrecito,  angelito, 
or  tan  lindito.  The  revelry  lasted  until  daylight;  then  a 
procession  slowly  wound  its  way  to  a  newly  dug  grave  and 
deposited  its  burden,  leaving  the  only  little  mound  visible 
that  side  of  the  Tamana. 

Christmas  was  drawing  near.  We  were  surprised  to  see 
the  women  apparently  making  preparations  for  a  celebra- 
tion, which  is  most  unusual  in  South  America.  They 
worked  several  days  cutting  the  weeds  around  the  village 
and  cleaning  up  the  place.  When  we  asked  about  it,  they 
said  it  was  not  on  account  of  the  approaching  fiesta,  but  a 
form  of  penance  they  performed  annually  in  atonement 
of  their  sins.  Apparently  the  men  were  without  blemish, 
for  they  gazed  upon  the  workers  and  addressed  jocular 
remarks  to  them  from  the  comfortable  retreat  of  their  ham- 
mocks, even  enumerating  particular  misdeeds  and  sug- 
gesting special  forms  of  penance  that  might  be  effective. 

The  next  stage  of  our  journey  had  to  be  performed  on 
the  river.  We  secured  a  huge  bongo  and  stalwart  negro 
paddlers,  and  December  21  found  us  speeding  down-stream 
toward  Novita.  The  Tamana  is  a  rapid  stream,  varying 
between  one  hundred  and  three  hundred  yards  in  width. 
Its  bed  is  strewn  with  boulders,  causing  rapids  easily  navi- 
gable on  the  downward  voyage,  but  difficult  and  dangerous 


70  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

to  negotiate  when  bound  up-stream.  Then  there  are  deep 
passages  between  high,  crumbling  banks,  where  the  water 
glides  silently  onward  like  an  olive-drab  stream  of  molten 
glass.  The  densest  of  tropical  jungles  lines  both  banks;  its 
matted  walls  facing  the  river  are  interrupted  by  small 
clearings  at  infrequent  intervals,  where  low  hovels  stand 
surrounded  by  the  rich  foliage  of  banana  and  yucca  plants. 
Chonta-palms,  with  bristling,  spiny  stems,  rear  their  plumed 
heads  above  the  other  forest-trees,  or  droop  over  the  water 
in  a  graceful  manner,  forming  a  dainty  filigree  against  the 
brazen  sky.  The  brassy,  merciless  sun  blazed  down  with 
unrelenting  vigor,  and  we  were  glad  when  dark  storm-clouds 
obscured  the  sky  and  provided  a  greatly  needed  respite. 

It  was  possible  to  proceed  only  to  a  point  called  Cabe- 
ceros,  below  which  rapids  of  a  formidable  character  obstruct 
further  navigation.  The  few  negroes  living  on  the  river- 
bank  can  usually  be  induced  to  assist  in  making  the  por- 
tage, men  and  women  alike  undertaking  to  carry  packs  to 
Tambito  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids.  Here  it  was  necessary 
to  secure  another  bongo  and  the  trip  was  resumed. 

The  Tamana"  grows  wider  constantly.  Cataracts  are  of 
more  frequent  occurrence  and  present  greater  hazards  in 
their  navigation.  The  bongo,  made  of  a  huge  tree-trunk 
and  measuring  thirty  feet  in  length,  and  a  yard  in  width, 
was  most  seaworthy;  but  frequently  it  shipped  water  in 
alarming  quantities,  and  scraped  and  bumped  over  the 
hidden  rocks  until  we  expected  the  craft  to  be  rent  asunder 
and  flounder. 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  afternoon  we  were  in  sight 
of  a  high,  isolated  mountain,  appearing  on  the  map  under 
the  name  Cerro  Torra.  So  far  as  I  can  learn  no  explorer 
has  ever  succeeded  in  gaining  its  summit,  and  when  I  be- 
held the  vast  stretch  of  impenetrable  jungle  extending  from 
the  river  to  apparently  the  very  top  of  the  mountain,  I 
could  readily  understand  why  the  few  men  who  had  at- 
tempted this  piece  of  exploration  had  failed  in  their  under- 
taking. 


THE  CHOCO  COUNTRY  71 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  landed  at  Novita.  I  was  some- 
what surprised  at  the  size  of  the  town,  which  consists  of 
about  fifty  hovels.  The  white  population,  which  was  very 
small,  consists  mainly  of  traders,  and  is  more  or  less  tran- 
sient. I  was  told  that  they  remain  in  the  region  a  year  or 
two  to  buy  gold  and  to  sell  their  stock  of  provisions  and 
merchandise  at  exorbitant  prices,  and  then  return  to  a 
more  healthful  climate — to  suffer  many  years  afterward 
from  the  effects  of  their  sojourn  in  the  Choco. 

Novita  is  essentially  a  mining  town.  A  good  deal  of 
gold  and  platinum  are  washed  out  of  the  small  streams 
that  form  a  network  in  the  surrounding  country.  The  ne- 
groes and  Indians  bring  in  the  precious  metals  in  small 
quantities — wrapped  in  leaves — and  trade  them  for  tinned 
food  and  cloth.  However,  the  town  seemed  to  be  on  the 
decline  in  favor  of  Condoto,  Pueblo  Rico,  and  Quibdo, 
where  richer  mineral  deposits  had  been  located. 

The  forest  contained  comparatively  little  wild  life,  and 
that  was  typical  of  the  Pacific  tropical  faunal  zone.  We 
daily  took  long  tramps  and  discovered  numerous  things  of 
more  than  passing  interest.  Among  them  was  a  colony  of 
nesting  black-and-yellow  orioles  (Icterus).  The  birds  had 
selected  a  solitary  ceiba-tree  standing  in  the  centre  of  a 
banana-field.  It  was  seventy  feet  to  the  lowest  limbs  and 
the  trunk  was  so  thick  and  smooth  that  no  predatory  ani- 
mal could  climb  it,  which  insured  the  safety  of  the  colony 
from  such  a  source  of  danger.  The  nests,  like  huge  pears, 
dangled  from  the  tips  of  the  branches;  I  counted  one  hun- 
dred and  four,  and  there  must  have  been  many  others  con- 
cealed by  the  foliage.  The  adult  birds  were  busy  and 
excited,  and  were  coming  and  going  in  steady  streams, 
keeping  up  their  noisy  chattering  all  the  while.  We  found 
numerous  bits  of  egg-shells,  white  with  black  dots,  on  the 
ground,  indicating  that  the  young  were  just  hatching. 

One  evening  as  we  were  returning  from  a  long  hunt,. we 
noticed  lines  of  bats  emerging  from  the  little  church  stand- 
ing on  the  edge  of  the  village.  Next  day  (Christmas)  I 


72  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

visited  this  rendezvous  accompanied  by  several  negro  as- 
sistants. The  bats  were  all  concealed  within  the  board 
walls,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  get  at  them,  but  the 
negroes  unhesitatingly  tore  away  the  slabs  of  flattened 
bamboo  and  soon  had  the  room  filled  with  a  squeaking, 
fluttering  swarm  which  they  attacked  with  sticks.  This 
method  of  attack  proving  too  slow,  they  grabbed  guns  and 
fired  into  the  masses  amid  wild  shouts  of  merriment.  When 
the  pandemonium  was  over  and  the  heap  of  slain  had  been 
collected,  they  respectfully  removed  their  hats  and  in  pass- 
ing out  of  the  church  reverently  bowed  the  knee  before  the 
altar. 

We  had  been  cautioned  to  be  on  the  alert  for  snakes. 
The  'deadly  bushmaster  or  vermgosa  was  said  to  be  par- 
ticularly abundant.  While  hunting  one  day,  Allen  shot  a 
hawk  and  placed  it  in  the  back  pocket  of  his  hunting-coat. 
To  all  appearances  the  bird  was  dead;  while  crawling 
through  a  thicket  a  short  time  later  he  felt  a  sudden  sharp 
sting  in  his  back  and,  throwing  up  his  hands  in  terror, 
yelled,  "Oh,  Lord !  one  got  me  at  last,"  thinking,  of  course, 
that  he  had  been  struck  by  a  snake.  Hurriedly  removing 
his  coat,  the  discovery  was  made  that  the  supposedly  dead 
hawk  had  been  stunned  only  and,  reviving,  had  promptly 
dug  its  talons  in  the  first  thing  that  offered  a  firm  hold. 
One  may  well  imagine  the  unpleasantness  of  such  an  ex- 
perience. 

Occasionally  we  saw  a  species  of  blacksnake  that  grows 
to  a  length  of  more  than  twelve  feet.  It  is  perfectly  harm- 
less, but  has  the  disagreeable  habit  of  haunting  trails  and 
footpaths  near  the  villages.  When  a  pedestrian  approaches 
it  rears  its  head  several  feet  above  the  ground  and  calmly 
gazes  into  his  face.  The  first  few  times  this  happens,  the 
sudden,  upward  lunge  of  the  big  head,  the  rapidly  playing 
tongue  and  the  beady  eyes  give  one  a  decided  shock  and 
provide  ample  cause  for  flight.  Later,  one  becomes  more 
or  less  accustomed  to  it.  This  snake  was  also  plentiful  in 
tropical  Venezuela  and  Bolivia. 


THE  CHOCO  COUNTRY  73 

It  was  impossible  to  secure  fresh  meat  at  Novita;  salt 
beef  was  imported  in  barrels,  but  it  was  of  such  poor  qual- 
ity that  we  could  not  eat  it.  We  therefore  depended  on 
toucans  and  parrots  for  our  meat-supply,  and  found  both 
species  very  palatable. 

The  paper  money  used  throughout  the  greater  part  of 
Colombia  is  not  recognized  by  inhabitants  of  the  Choco. 
It  rots  in  the  wet,  hot  atmosphere  and  for  that  reason  is 
valueless.  Neither  are  gold  coins  wanted,  but  some  of  the 
shopkeepers  accepted  them  at  a  twelve  per  cent  discount. 
The  money  that  finds  favor  is  composed  of  silver  coins 
from  Mexico  and  practically  all  the  other  South  and  Cen- 
tral American  republics;  it  is  valued  according  to  size,  the 
"dollars"  passing  for  forty  cents,  the  halves  for  twenty, 
and  so  on.  I  found  a  number  of  United  States  half-dimes 
circulating  at  two  cent,  and  dimes  at  four  cent  values, 
and  "collected"  all  that  came  within  reach. 

After  a  few  days'  hunting  around  Novita  we  secured 
another  bongo  and  resumed  our  journey  down-stream.  The 
Tamana  empties  into  the  San  Juan,  about  ten  miles  be- 
low Novita.  The  latter  river  is  wider  and  deeper,  but 
there  is  no  change  in  the  country  bordering  it.  All  day 
long  we  glided  steadily  onward,  stopping  at  noon  only  for 
a  brief  respite  from  the  burning  sun.  At  dusk  we  landed 
to  spend  the  night  near  a  negro  hut.  The  floor  was  raised 
five  feet  from  the  ground  and  the  ragged,  thatched  roof 
nearly  touched  it;  there  were  no  walls.  Altogether  it  was  a 
most  primitive  dwelling,  in  which  the  dusky  forms  of  the 
occupants  moved  like  shadows  against  the  dim  light  of 
their  cooking  fire.  Noanama  was  reached  the  next  day. 
It  is  not  quite  so  large  as  Juntas  de  Tamana,  and  stands  on 
a  bluff  overlooking  the  river.  The  inhabitants  are  all  ne- 
groes; the  males  wore  breech-cloths  only,  while  the  costume 
of  the  women  consisted  of  a  narrow  cloth  fastened  around 
the  waist  with  a  string.  Both  men  and  women  spend  a 
few  hours  each  day  washing  gold  on  the  river-bank,  secur- 
ing enough  from  this  work  to  pay  for  provisions  brought 


74  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

from  Buenaventura.  When  they  have  accumulated  a 
small  quantity  of  the  fine,  sparkling  flakes  they  embark  in 
their  canoes  and  make  their  way  to  the  seaport  in  three 
days,  there  to  do  their  trading.  It  was  impossible  to  hire 
them  for  any  kind  of  work;  one  woman  had  flour,  but  could 
not  bake  bread  for  lack  of  fire-wood,  because  no  one  would 
carry  it  from  the  forest  one  hundred  yards  away.  Indians 
came  to  the  village  daily.  They  wore  many  ornaments  of 
beaten  silver  about  their  necks  and  wrists;  some  of  them 
also  had  earrings  made  of  the  same  metal,  the  size  of  door- 
knobs; they  were  so  heavy  that  a  framework  of  sticks 
placed  at  the  back  of  the  head  had  to  be  used  to  support 
their  weight.  I  was  greatly  amused  by  the  actions  of  one 
stalwart  young  brave  who,  with  his  wife  and  baby,  came 
to  the  settlement  each  day.  While  in  town,  where  he 
might  be  observed,  he  paid  no  attention  whatever  to  his 
family;  he  walked  several  paces  in  front  of  the  woman, 
who,  of  course,  carried  the  baby,  and  not  once  even  conde- 
scended to  glance  in  their  direction.  However,  when  they 
reached  the  river-bank  or  some  other  secluded  spot  where 
he  was  safe  from  prying  eyes,  he  snatched  the  infant  from 
the  mother's  arms,  kissed  it,  tossed  it  into  the  air  and  acted 
exactly  like  any  other  fond  parent.  If  any  one  approached, 
he  hastily  returned  it  to  his  wife  and  resumed  his  taciturn 
expression. 

At  times  a  small  steamer,  the  Fluvial,  from  Buenaven- 
tura, visits  the  settlements  on  the  lower  San  Juan.  We 
waited  in  vain  ten  days  for  her  appearance.  However,  a 
launch  belonging  to  a  miner,  a  Mr.  Stapleton,  chanced  to 
pass,  and  the  owner  kindly  offered  to  take  us  to  the  coast. 

The  San  Juan  grows  constantly  wider.  Its  banks  are 
dotted  with  the  conical  huts  of  Indians;  the  floors  are 
always  raised  on  poles,  high  above  the  ground,  to  escape 
the  floods  and  insects. 

As  we  sped  down  the  river  many  of  the  naked,  painted 
savages  rushed  out  in  their  canoes,  paddling  and  yelling 
like  demons  in  attempts  to  overtake  the  launch.  I  do  not 


THE  CHOCO  COUNTRY  75 

know  what  object  they  had  in  mind  as  we  always  out- 
distanced them.  We  also  saw  others  catching  crabs  in 
places  where  the  high,  sheer  banks  were  honeycombed  with 
holes  made  by  these  crustaceans.  They  had  slender,  sharp- 
ened sticks  with  a  barb  on  the  end,  which  they  inserted  in 
the  burrows  and  then  withdrew  with  the  struggling  victims 
impaled  on  them. 

We  reached  the  mouth  of  the  San  Juan  in  two  days'  time. 
The  river  is  very  wide  at  this  point  and  dotted  with  low 
mangrove  islands.  A  sand-bar  almost  completely  blocks 
the  estuary,  and  when  we  left  the  next  morning  we  had 
great  difficulty  in  finding  a  passage.  Then  followed  a  wild, 
careening  dash  of  forty  miles  in  the  open  ocean.  The 
launch  was  but  twenty-one  feet  long,  and  we  were  com- 
pelled to  go  out  of  sight  of  land  to  avoid  rocks  and  reefs; 
but  dusk  found  us  well  within  the  confines  of  Buenaventura 
Bay,  ploughing  through  the  placid  water  at  great  speed 
and  frightening  up  innumerable  flocks  of  brown  pelicans 
that  much  preferred  to  float  comfortably  on  the  unruffled 
surface,  and  took  wing  only  as  a  last  resort  to  escape  being 
run  down. 

Buenaventura  had  never  seemed  attractive  or  inviting 
to  us  before,  but  after  a  month  in  the  steaming  coastal 
land,  with  its  almost  constant  downpour,  insect  pests,  and 
terrific  heat,  it  appeared  to  be  altogether  delightful.  We 
returned  to  Cali  and  spent  weeks  on  our  backs  suffering 
from  the  fevers  with  which  we  had  become  inoculated. 
Allen's  attack  was  so  severe  that  he  was  compelled  to  re- 
turn to  the  United  States  two  days  after  reaching  San 
Agustin  on  our  next  expedition,  and  just  before  the  dis- 
covery of  some  of  our  most  valuable  material. 


CHAPTER  VI 
IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK 

ON  my  fourth  visit  to  Popaydn  we  had  to  remain  in  the 
city  the  greater  part  of  a  week,  arranging  for  the  continua- 
tion of  our  journey  across  the  Central  Andes  to  the  head- 
waters of  the  Magdalena.  Hereafter  we  were  to  travel  on 
foot,  partly  due  to  the  fact  that  some  of  the  trails  were  im- 
passable, both  to  riding  and  pack  animals,  and  partly  to 
enable  us  to  be  in  a  position  better  to  study  the  wild  life 
of  the  region  we  traversed.  I  was  accompanied  on  this 
particular  expedition  by  Doctor  Allen  and  Mr.  J.  T.  Lloyd, 
of  Cornell  University. 

On  February  27  we  left  Popayan  on  foot,  the  mule-train 
following  some  little  distance  behind.  The  route  lay 
through  undulating  country,  rather  well  cultivated,  where 
there  were  numerous  huts  at  which  we  found  shelter  for 
the  nights.  At  one  of  these  stopping-places  the  natives 
were  engaged  in  thrashing  beans.  The  pods  had  been 
heaped  upon  a  straw  mat  and  the  family  were  beating  them 
with  heavy  flails.  Wheat  was  thrashed  in  the  same  man- 
ner, but  after  the  grains  had  been  beaten  loose  from  the 
chaff  large  pans  full  were  held  high  above  the  head  and 
poured  out  in  a  thin,  steady  stream;  the  wind  blew  the 
chaff  from  the  falling  column  and  the  wheat  dropped  upon 
the  mat.  At  another  hut  men  were  manufacturing  "ca- 
bulla"  by  stripping  off,  between  two  sticks,  the  fleshy  part 
of  the  leaves  of  the  yucca-plant.  The  tough  fibres  remain- 
ing were  mixed  with  horsehair  and  braided  into  strong 
ropes.  Food  was  scarce,  the  natives  subsisting  upon  the 
inevitable  "sancocho"  of  boiled  green  plantains,  and  corn- 
meal  "jarepas."  However,  we  managed  occasionally  to 
pick  up  a  fowl,  some  green  corn,  and  once  we  succeeded  in 

76 


IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK  77 

purchasing  a  live  sheep;  this,  in  addition  to  the  provisions 
we  carried,  enabled  us  to  fare  passably  well. 

On  March  7  we  had  reached  the  top  of  a  ridge  ten  thou- 
sand three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  having  passed  the 
little  villages  Timbio,  San  Miguel,  Santa  Barbara,  and  La 
Vega.  La  Vega  means  " fertile  plain,"  and  the  surrounding 
country  fully  justifies  the  name.  Far  as  the  eye  could  see 
the  gently  sloping  mountainsides  had  been  divided  into  a 
network  of  small,  irregular  plots  by  rows  of  high,  thick 
hedges.  Wheat,  corn,  cabbage,  and  rice  flourished  under 
the  cultivating  hand  of  the  Indian;  there  were  also  small 
flocks  of  sheep,  and  occasionally  a  few  head  of  cattle. 
Small  mud-walled  huts,  singly  and  in  clusters/dotted  the 
maze  of  green  landscape,  and  over  all  breathed  an  air  of 
quiet  and  contentment. 

The  trail  had  gradually  led  upward,  though  often  de- 
scending into  gorges  and  ravines  a  thousand  feet  deep. 
We  had  passed  through  patches  of  barren  country,  and 
then  entered  a  wilderness  of  lovely  flowering  rhododen- 
drons. The  masses  of  red  wild  oleanders  were  beautiful, 
but  the  lanes  of  a  species  of  shrub  covered  with  small  waxen 
blossoms  of  purest  white,  mingled  with  deep-green  foliage 
and  the  fronds  of  monstrous  subtropical  ferns,  surpassed 
any  picture  that  pen  can  describe  or  the  imagination  con- 
jure. From  afar  we  could  hear  the  steady  buzz  of  bees 
and  other  insects  that  swarmed  about  the  flowers,  and  fre- 
quently a  humming-bird  whirred  into  the  arena,  hovered  a 
few  moments,  and  then  sped  away;  myriads  of  nocturnal 
insects  appeared  at  night,  and  great  sphinx-moths  took  the 
place  of  the  hummers. 

The  top  of  the  ridge  is  covered  with  tall,  magnificent 
forest.  We  saw  numerous  signs  of  bird  and  animal  life. 
Toucans  of  several  species  yelped  and  clattered  their  bills 
in  the  tall  trees  above.  There  were  also  yellow-shouldered 
troupials,  blue  and  yellow  cotingas,  brown  creepers,  bright- 
colored  hummers,  and  many  dragon-flies.  The  latter  pos- 
sessed a  special  interest  for  Lloyd,  who  immediately  erected 


78  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

breeding-cages  and  began  to  study  their  life  history.  The 
larva  of  the  dragon-fly  resembles  a  good-size  black  beetle 
and  lives  in  water.  It  is  the  possessor  of  a  voracious 
appetite,  feeding  upon  aquatic  insects,  the  larvae  of  mos- 
quitoes, and  even  upon  members  of  its  own  kind.  Finally 
it  rises  to  the  top,  hatches,  and  continues  the  cycle  of  its 
existence  as  an  aerialist,  the  terror  of  the  winged  insects 
upon  which  it  preys.  Penelopes,  small  turkey-like  birds, 
were  abundant,  and  proved  to  be  excellent  eating.  One 
day  we  succeeded  in  taking  two  specimens  of  a  rare,  beau- 
tiful tanager  (Serricossypha  albocristata)  that  lived  in  small 
flocks  hi  the  tall  tree-tops.  It  was  as  large  as  a  robin,  of 
a  velvety  blue-black  color,  with  a  white  crown  and  breast 
of  deep  scarlet.  With  such  a  display  of  lovely  colors  one 
might  expect  harmony  in  song;  but  apparently  the  vocal 
ability  of  the  gorgeous  creature  was  limited  to  a  few  shrill 
"peeps"  like  those  of  a  strayed  pullet.  Deer  also  were 
abundant,  and  one  day  we  caught  a  fine  cat  of  the  ocelot 
family. 

We  pitched  camp  in  the  heart  of  the  forest.  The  vege- 
tation was  really  wonderful.  In  spots  the  lower  growth 
consisted  entirely  of  climbing  bamboo,  so  dense  as  to  be  im- 
penetrable; the  moss  carpeting  the  ground  was  often  knee- 
deep,  and  the  trees  seemed  to  be  breaking  under  the  weight 
of  the  creepers,  orchids,  mosses,  and  lilies  that  burdened 
every  trunk  and  branch.  It  rained  a  good  deal,  and  when 
the  downpour  stopped  there  was  always  the  drip,  drip  of 
water  that  had  been  absorbed  by  the  spongy  masses  over- 
head. 

The  forest  zone  extends  along  the  top  of  the  ridge  for 
three  or  four  miles  and  down  about  one  thousand  five  hun- 
dred feet  on  the  other  side,  but  the  slope  immediately  below 
this  line  is  either  bush-covered  or  cultivated,  and  bears 
every  evidence  of  having  been  cleared.  Fifteen  hundred 
feet  lower  down  we  came  upon  the  little  settlement  Alma- 
guer,  which  boasts  about  one  hundred  adobe  houses  and 
two  severely  plain  little  churches,  but  all  are  whitewashed 


Indian  hut  in  the  Valle  de  las  Papas. 


IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK  79 

and  present  a  clean  appearance.  The  main  industry  is  the 
making  of  Panama  hats  of  a  rather  coarse  kind.  Many  In- 
dians visit  the  town  on  market-days,  bringing  coca  leaves, 
lime,  and  sera,  a  kind  of  vegetable  wax,  obtained  from  a 
berry  that  grows  in  the  mountains  and  used  for  making 
candles.  Pigeons  are  very  fond  of  the  berry,  and  as  they 
ripen  the  great  band-tailed  species  congregate  in  flocks  to 
feed  upon  them,  becoming  so  fat  that  they  finally  pay  with 
their  lives  for  the  short  season  of  feasting.  The  candles 
made  of  sera  are  green,  but  burn  well  and  are  generally 
better  than  the  ordinary  tallow  dip.  The  lime,  or  " mam- 
be,  "  is  used  for  chewing  with  the  coca  leaves,  which  is  a 
confirmed  habit  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

As  elsewhere,  the  weekly  market  at  Almaguer  is  a  day  of 
great  activity  and  is  looked  upon  almost  hi  the  light  of  a 
fiesta.  Early  in  the  morning,  usually  at  four  o'clock,  a 
cow  is  killed  in  the  plaza  and  all  the  inhabitants  gather 
around  to  watch  the  skinning  of  the  carcass. 

At  eight  o'clock  the  plaza  is  rilled  with  tradespeople, 
usually  women,  squatting  on  the  ground  with  their  wares 
spread  before  them  in  wooden  trays,  bags,  or  baskets.  All 
that  these  simple  people  deem  necessary  to  existence,  and 
even  some  luxuries,  may  be  had.  There  are  rows  of  venders 
of  bread,  cakes,  and  dulces;  others  with  vegetables,  rice, 
coffee,  corn,  and  cheese;  occasionally  peaches,  apples  of 
an  inferior  quality,  oranges,  and  a  few  plantains  are  brought 
up  from  some  sheltered  valley;  but  the  greatest  space  is 
always  taken  up  by  the  coca  merchants,  who  unquestion- 
ably do  the  most  thriving  business,  as  every  one  takes 
advantage  of  market-day  to  have  their  "mambero"  re- 
plenished. Sometimes  a  buyer  of  hats  visits  the  market. 
On  such  occasions  the  day  is  ushered  in  with  an  unearthly 
hammering  noise  that  proceeds  from  all  the  houses,  and  in- 
vestigation will  disclose  the  women  industriously  pounding 
the  Panamas  into  shape  on  a  wooden  block.  Later  they 
carry  them  to  market  on  their  heads,  where  the  buyer,  after 
a  casual  examination,  makes  an  offer  which  varies  from 


80  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

forty  cents  to  a  few  dollars,  according  to  the  texture  of  the 
hat. 

At  night  the  temperature  falls  rapidly  as  the  cold  winds 
sweep  down  from  the  mountains  and  howl  through  the 
streets.  We  have  every  reason  to  remember  our  night's 
experience  in  Almaguer.  The  pack-animals  had  failed  to 
catch  up  and  we  carried  nothing  with  us,  so  we  spent  the 
long,  cheerless  hours  until  sunrise  shivering  in  our  bare, 
dusty  room  in  the  posada. 

The  first  night  from  Almaguer  was  passed  at  an  old  mill 
on  the  banks  of  the  Caquiona,  built  by  monks  many  years 
ago.  They  had  thoughtfully  provided  a  large  room  to 
house  the  Indians  who  formerly  came  to  have  their  wheat 
and  corn  ground,  even  to  the  extent  of  providing  rough 
bunks;  and  just  outside  stood  a  massive  stocks,  doubtless 
also  provided  for  the  use  of  the  Indians,  but  it  must  have 
detracted  somewhat  from  the  effect  of  the  hospitality  ex- 
tended by  the  good  monks.  There  was  plenty  of  tender, 
luscious  grass  for  the  mules.  Near  the  river  large  numbers 
of  butterflies  settled  on  the  moist  sand  to  drink;  the  boul- 
ders on  the  bottom  of  the  clear,  cold  stream  had  many 
houses  of  the  caddis-fly  cemented  to  them — little  pebbly 
mummy-cases  in  which  the  owner  lay  snugly  ensconced  in 
the  silky  lining  and  quickly  repaired  the  break  if  we  opened 
them.  The  next  day  we  passed  San  Sebastian,  the  last 
settlement,  and  climbed  steadily  higher  toward  the  cold, 
bleak  paramo  that  marks  the  dividing-line  between  the 
Cauca  and  the  Magdalena. 

After  four  days  we  reached  the  marvellous  Valle  de  las 
Papas,  just  below  the  mist-enshrouded  paramo,  and  took 
refuge  in  the  pretentious  house  of  old  Pedro,  a  full-blooded 
Andaquia,  while  preparing  for  our  final  dash  across  the 
great  barrier. 

The  Valle  de  las  Papas  is  a  great  level  stretch  of  marshy 
land  covered  with  a  growth  of  tall  grass  and  small  clumps 
of  forest,  between  ten  thousand  and  eleven  thousand  feet 
up.  The  tops  of  the  ridges  hem  it  in  on  all  sides  and  some- 


IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK  81 

what  protect  it  from  the  icy  winds.  It  is  said  that  the 
ancient  Indians  cultivated  the  potato  in  this  valley;  hence 
its  name — "The  Valley  of  Potatoes."  An  elaborate  net 
work  of  canals  or  drains  runs  through  the  valley,  but  the 
climate  and  soil  are  such  that  I  doubt  if  cultivation  could 
be  carried  on  to  any  great  extent.  Often,  for  many  days  at 
a  time,  rain  and  hail  fall  steadily  and  the  mist  is  so  thick  that 
one  cannot  venture  far  on  the  treacherous  boggy  soil.  Yet. 
strange  to  say,  cattle  thrive  wonderfully  on  the  high  pla- 
teau, and  their  rearing  is  the  occupation  followed  by  the  few 
Indian  families  who  live  on  these  heights.  Beautiful  orchids 
abound  in  the  trees,  especially  in  the  forest  that  reaches  up 
to  the  valley;  we  saw  many  of  yellow,  purple,  and  snowy- 
white.  Some  of  the  trees  are  of  the  evergreen  family,  in- 
cluding a  kind  of  holly.  There  were  many  indications  of 
deer  and  tapirs,  although  we  shot  none.  Large  snipe  and 
ant-thrushes  were  plentiful,  and  on  the  streams  we  saw  a 
number  of  peculiar  little  torrent-ducks,  or  merganettas;  large 
white  gulls,  which  the  Indians  say  are  old  birds  that  come 
up  from  the  sea  to  die,  soared  high  overhead. 

At  one  end  of  the  valley  lies  a  small  lake,  of  which  we 
had  an  occasional  short  view  when  the  clouds  drifted  up 
the  slopes.  All  about  grew  clumps  of  frailejones.  Two 
streams  leave  the  grassy  borders  of  the  lake,  mere  rivulets 
ten  or  twelve  feet  wide,  through  which  we  waded  daily; 
one  flows  down  the  extreme  eastern  slope  and  develops 
into  the  mighty  Caqueta  that  helps  to  swell  the  yellow  flood 
of  the  Amazon;  the  other  breaks  through  the  ridges  to  the 
northeast,  and  dashing  down  the  mountains  in  a  series  of 
rapids  and  cascades  forms  the  Magdalena,  which  empties 
into  the  Caribbean  many  hundreds  of  miles  away. 

Allen  was  suffering  considerably  from  the  fever  con- 
tracted in  the  Choco  four  months  before.  Instead  of  being 
benefited  by  the  high,  cold  climate  as  we  had  hoped,  his 
condition  grew  steadily  worse,  so  we  found  it  necessary  to 
continue  our  journey  sooner  than  we  had  anticipated.  I 
hastened  back  to  San  Sebastian  to  engage  Indian  porters, 


82  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

as  mules  are  unable  to  carry  packs  beyond  this  point,  and 
was  assisted  in  my  mission  by  the  schoolmaster,  who  took 
a  sympathetic  interest  in  our  undertaking.  He  was  a  pa- 
thetic example  of  a  man  who  might  have  accomplished 
great  deeds  had  the  opportunity  presented  itself.  One  of 
his  most  highly  cherished  possessions  was  an  old  magazine 
containing  illustrations  of  an  aeroplane  and  an  article  on 
wireless  telegraphy. 

With  a  great  deal  of  difficulty  I  succeeded  in  arranging 
with  a  dozen  Indians  to  carry  our  luggage  across  the  cor- 
dillera  the  following  week.  They  were  of  splendid  phy- 
sique and  as  fine  a  looking  lot  as  I  had  ever  seen.  The 
price  agreed  upon  was  about  seventy-five  cents  per  arroba 
of  twenty-five  pounds,  each  man  carrying  from  two  to  four 
arrobas.  The  journey  would  require  five  days,  and  each 
man  was  to  carry  his  own  food  for  the  trip  in  addition  to 
the  pack.  The  charge  was  high,  judged  by  local  standards, 
but  on  account  of  the  rainy  season  the  trail  was  all  but  im- 
passable; also,  it  was  the  Semana  Santa,  one  of  the  greatest 
fiestas  of  the  year,  when  all  good  Indians  should  roam  the 
streets,  dulling  their  senses  with  an  excessive  use  of  coca 
leaves  and  guarapo,  and  fighting,  while  the  women  spent 
the  greater  part  of  the  days  in  church  acquiring  grace  for 
themselves  and  their  delinquent  husbands.  A  small  ad- 
vance was  made  to  each  man  to  enable  him  to  purchase  a 
supply  of  ground  corn,  cane-sugar,  and  coca.  Acceptance 
of  this  advance  is  considered  equal  to  signing  a  contract, 
and  they  rarely,  if  ever,  go  back  on  the  deal. 

On  Wednesday,  April  3,  the  day  set  for  our  departure, 
the  men  appeared,  each  provided  with  a  board  and  strong 
cords.  The  packs,  consisting  of  boxes,  steamer  trunks, 
and  bags,  were  tied  to  the  boards  which  fitted  the  men's 
backs;  a  broad  band  was  passed  over  the  forehead  and  two 
bands  across  the  chest.  Each  man  carried  in  his  hand  a 
forked  stick,  or  "mula,"  as  a  means  of  aiding  him  in  going 
up  and  down  the  slippery  inclines  and  in  walking  the  logs 
that  crossed  the  streams. 


IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK  83 

After  a  short,  steep  climb  we  were  out  on  the  bleak 
paramo,  in  the  midst  of  the  rain,  hail,  and  mist.  The  wind 
blew  a  gale  and  the  cold  was  intense.  Through  an  occa- 
sional break  in  the  banks  of  fog  we  had  glimpses  of  the 
valley  on  each  side  filled  with  dense  clumps  of  frailejones. 
We  continued  on  in  the  face  of  the  blinding  storm  for  sev- 
eral hours,  but  with  the  coming  of  darkness  the  trail  left 
the  wind-swept  zone  and  started  downward,  winding  along 
the  canyon  of  the  Magdalena;  in  the  failing  light  the  scenery 
was  bewitchingly  beautiful.  High,  rugged  peaks,  sheer 
cliffs,  and  black  masses  of  forest  towered  above  the  spar- 
kling stream  that  bounded  from  rock  to  rock  in  a  succession 
of  falls.  Allen  and  Lloyd  had  gone  on  ahead,  and  after 
dark  I  came  upon  them  camped  in  a  unique  spot.  They 
had  thrown  their  blankets  on  a  ledge  in  the  face  of  a  cliff 
that  towered  several  hundred  feet  above  them.  A  tiny 
waterfall  dashed  over  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  cleared  the 
ledge,  and  joined  the  greater  torrent  below.  The  regular 
night's  stopping-place  is  known  as  Santa  Marta,  which  the 
Indians  reached  at  nine  that  night. 

Immediately  after  arriving  at  the  camping  site  the  por- 
ters boiled  corn-meal,  which  they  ate  with  brown  sugar. 
Each  man  had  brought  a  sheepskin  to  use  as  a  bed,  and 
these  were  dried  beside  the  fire  while  their  food  was  cook- 
ing. Before  starting  in  the  morning  they  had  another  meal 
of  mush  and  sugar.  During  the  gruelling  day  their  mouths 
were  kept  well  filled  with  coca  and  lime,  and  the  apparent 
amount  of  sustenance  and  endurance  derived  from  the  herb 
is  extraordinary;  nor  does  it  seem  to  have  any  bad  after- 
effect, though  in  Almaguer  I  saw  a  number  of  shaky  old 
women  with  bloodshot  eyes  and  blackened  lips  and  teeth, 
said  to  be  due  to  the  result  of  excessive  indulgence  in  coca. 

The  second  night  we  failed  to  catch  up  with  the  men 
who  had  gone  on  ahead.  We  had  waded  streams  and  knee- 
deep  mud  the  greater  part  of  the  day  as  the  result  of  the 
steady  downpour  which  rendered  the  trail  indescribably 
bad;  everything  was  drenched  and  it  required  more  than  an 


84  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

hour  of  hard  work  to  start  a  small  fire.  However,  the  day 
dawned  bright  and,  sunny,  and  we  lingered  to  watch  the 
tribes  of  feathered  folk  that  began  feeding  and  chattering 
in  the  tree-tops.  The  ripening  fruits  had  attracted  great 
black  guans,  trogons  with  rose-colored  breasts  and  metallic 
green  backs,  and  wonderful  curve-billed  hummers  with  long 
white  tails.  Along  a  stretch  of  bamboo  we  saw  scores  of 
large,  pearly  butterflies  flapping  about  lazily,  the  irides- 
cence of  their  wings  flashing  like  bits  of  rainbow  in  the  sun- 
light; but  not  a  glimpse  did  we  have  of  the  main  object  of 
our  long  wanderings — the  rare  and  elusive  cock-of-the- 
rock. 

In  the  afternoon  the  rain  again  fell  in  unrelenting  tor- 
rents, and  we  camped  beneath  a  wall  of  rock  hundreds  of 
feet  high,  which  the  Indians  called  the  Pena  Seca,  or  dry- 
stone.  Great  vines  with  bunches  of  scarlet  flowers  drooped 
a  hundred  feet  below  the  top,  like  gigantic  serpents,  but 
not  a  drop  of  all  the  downpour  reached  us.  The  base  of 
the  cliff  was  blackened  from  the  numerous  camp-fires  kin- 
dled by  Indians  on  their  way  to  Tolima  in  quest  of  salt. 
By  way  of  divertiseinent  our  Indians  gathered  incense, 
which  is  a  kind  of  gum  that  collects  on  certain  trees,  and 
which  they  intended  to  take  home  with  them  for  use  in  the 
santa  iglesia.  I  watched  the  social  bees  that  live  in  com- 
pany with  termites  building  tubular  entrances  that  may 
extend  out  eighteen  inches  or  more  like  a  coiled  pipe-stem 
to  their  apartment  in  the  nest;  apparently  the  two  differ- 
ent inmates  of  the  common  domicile  never  clash. 

The  third  night  we  reached  the  hut  of  an  old  Indian 
who  called  himself  Domingo,  and  who  was  as  surly  a  crea- 
ture as  ever  walked  the  earth.  As  he  refused  us  the  hospi- 
tality of  his  hut,  we  camped  outside  his  gate. 

We  now  occasionally  passed  through  a  cleared  spot  where 
grain  and  vegetables  grew;  cattle  grazed  on  the  long,  ten- 
der grass,  and  dark-brown,  wild-eyed  children  peered  at  us 
from  under  the  fringed,  low  grass  roofs  of  shambling  Indian 
huts.  On  the  top  of  every  knoll  was  a  row  of  tall  wooden 


IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK  85 

crosses,  some  newly  erected,  others  decaying  and  ready  to 
topple  over;  it  is  the  custom  of  the  natives  to  erect  a  new 
one  each  year  on  Good  Friday,  permitting  the  old  ones  to 
remain  standing.  We  had  reached  the  frontier  of  Huila. 

On  Easter  Sunday  we  had  our  first  glimpse  of  San  Agus- 
tin,  which  was  decidedly  disappointing.  All  that  we  could 
see  as  we  descended  the  last  steep  slope  was  a  cluster  of 
some  fifty-odd  mud  huts  protruding  from  the  centre  of  a 
wide,  barren  plain;  there  is  no  forest  within  a  mile  in  any 
direction,  and  very  little  cultivation  is  carried,  on  in  the 
immediate  vicinity.  The  town  is  very  old;  the  inhabitants 
are  mainly  of  Spanish  descent,  but  scattered  throughout  the 
surrounding  country  can  be  found  small  clearings,  orfincas, 
cultivated  by  full-blooded  Indians.  These  latter  are  of  a 
reticent  though  friendly  disposition,  emerging  from  the 
seclusion  of  their  forest-bound  homes  only  on  market-days 
to  dispose  of  the  products  of  the  soil  and  of  their  flocks. 

In  recent  years  the  name  San  Agustin  has  come  into 
prominence  on  account  of  the  prehistoric  ruins  and  mono- 
liths that  are  found  in  its  vicinity,  and  which  are  supposed 
to  be  of  very  great  antiquity,  dating  back  to  a  culture  that 
has  entirely  disappeared  and  of  which  nothing  definite  is 
known.  Even  the  Indians  who  to-day  inhabit  the  region 
have  no  traditions  or  folk-lore  of  the  vanished  race,  and 
scientists  who  have  examined  the  ruins  have,  up  to  the 
present  time,  been  unable  to  account  for  their  origin.  It 
has  been  suggested  that  they  may  represent  the  work  of  the 
tribe  of  Andaquias,  but  this  statement  is  disputed  by  Carlos 
Cuervo  Marquez,  who  points  out  that  the  mute  reminders 
of  an  ancient  civilization  already  existed  in  the  same  un- 
known condition  at  the  time  the  Conquistadores  overran 
the  empire  of  the  Chibchas. 

The  thing  that  first  attracted  our  attention  was  the  row 
of  twelve  stone  images  that  stand  in  the  centre  of  the  plaza 
facing  the  village  chapel,  which  vary  in  height  from  two  to 
eight  feet  and  are  carved  from  sandstone  and  granite.  Gi- 
gantic heads,  with  round  faces  and  staring,  expressionless 


86  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

eyes,  are  set  upon  short,  square  bodies.  Some  are  crowned 
with  hats  or  head-coverings  that  range  in  pattern  from 
the  Turkish  fez  and  sugar-loaf  to  curious  curved  caps  that 
may  have  been  intended  to  simulate  the  rainbow.  Many 
of  the  figures  are  quite  naked,  while  others  are  clothed  in 
a  narrow  band,  or  loin-cloth.  The  teeth  of  many  of  the 
human  beings  represented  are  prominent,  and  each  has  two 
pair  of  great  pointed  canines  like  those  of  a  beast.  This 
row  of  images  was  placed  in  its  present  location  by  order 
of  the  priest  who  had  charge  of  the  parish;  we  may  imagine 
at  what  cost  of  labor  when  we  realize  that  many  of  the 
stones  weigh  several  tons.  Of  course,  there  are  no  trails, 
and  the  only  way  was  to  drag  them  out  of  the  forest  with 
ropes. 

One  of  the  monoliths  represents  a  woman  with  a  small 
child  in  one  arm  and  a  club  in  the  other  hand  raised  in  an 
attitude  of  defense;  on  one  is  carved  a  woman  meshing  a 
muchila,  and  on  another  a  man  is  holding  a  fish.  There  is 
the  hewn  figure  of  a  large  monkey  crouching  over  a  smaller 
one,  and  some  distance  away  stands  an  owl  holding  a  snake 
in  its  beak.  A  flat  slab  in  a  recumbent  position  bears  the 
engraved  figure  of  a  woman  and  possibly  served  as  the 
covering  of  a  coffin  or  a  grave.  Then  there  is  the  statue  of 
a  woman  with  a  mallet  in  one  hand  and  a  chisel  in  the 
other,  thought  to  represent  the  goddess  of  sculpture.  It 
seems  not  improbable  that  the  greater  number  of  the  images 
represent  idols  which  were  worshipped  by  the  ancient  people. 

The  most  interesting  examples  are  to  be  found  in  the 
forest  above  San  Agustin.  Under  the  giant  cedars  and  tall 
cecropias  that  cover  the  slopes  one  finds  works  of  a  more 
pretentious  nature,  scattered  among  the  dense  low  palm 
growths  and  covered  with  creepers  and  epiphytes.  There  a 
huge  stone  tablet  may  be  seen,  supported  on  four  richly 
carved  stone  columns  six  feet  high,  which  probably  served 
as  an  altar  for  the  offer  of  sacrifice;  or  it  may  have  been  the 
entrance  to  a  temple.  Near-by  is  an  underground  gallery 
leading  to  two  large  caves  in  which  are  carvings  of  the  sun 


The  village  of  Santa  Barbara. 


A  corner  of  San  Augustin. 


IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK  87 

and  moon  with  rays  darting  in  all  directions.  There  are 
many  other  statues  within  a  radius  of  several  miles,  and 
doubtless  a  systematic  search  of  the  region  would  reveal 
rich  archaeological  treasure-troves.  Numerous  mounds 
and  caverns  furnish  abundant  evidence  of  the  existence  of 
ruined  temples  and  the  remnants  of  works  of  art  that  have 
yielded  to  decadence  with  the  passing  of  the  centuries. 
Most  of  the  known  statues  have  been  undermined  by 
fortune-hunters  and  have  toppled  over;  others  have  been 
broken  by  the  excavators  in  their  mad  search  for  the  small 
gold  replicas  or  ornaments  that  are  found  in  the  graves, 
while  several  have  been  demolished  by  order  of  the  clergy. 
The  only  thing  that  prevents  the  removal  of  the  stones 
themselves  is  their  great  weight  and  lack  of  transportation 
facilities. 

The  ruins  about  San  Agustin  possess  none  of  the  ornate 
massiveness  of  those  found  in  Guatemala  and  Yucatan,  but 
rather  has  the  work  been  executed  along  severe  lines  and  in 
bas-relief;  nor  are  they  nearly  so  well  preserved,  which 
might  tend  to  show  that  they  date  back  to  an  earlier  period. 
Hieroglyphics  are  almost  wholly  wanting.  Doctor  Karl 
Theodor  Stoepel,  who  spent  some  time  in  San  Agustin  pre- 
vious to  our  visit,  has  traced  a  similarity  between  one  of 
the  monoliths  and  an  example  found  in  Pachacama,  Bo- 
livia. In  one  or  two  instances  the  work  resembles  that  of 
the  Aztecs. 

Just  how  to  account  for  the  advance  of  civilization  to  a 
point  where  art  and  architecture  were  encouraged,  and 
which  supported  a  well-organized  form  of  government,  and 
then  to  explain  its  complete  extinction,  is  a  question  on 
which  students  of  the  subject  are  at  variance.  Religion  in 
some  form  or  other  has  always  wielded  a  powerful  influence 
upon  the  life  and  customs  of  primitive  nations;  one  evi- 
dence— almost  invariably  the  deities  and  the  temples 
erected  for  their  veneration  represent  the  supreme  efforts 
of  the  ancient  artists  and  alone  have  withstood  the  weath- 
ering of  ages.  This  points  strongly  to  the  supremacy  of  a 


88  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

sacerdotal  order;  but  whether  the  reigning  classes  who 
withheld  their  knowledge  from  the  common  people  for 
selfish  purposes  were  annihilated  by  an  uprising  of  the  ser- 
vile hordes  or  by  an  outside  invasion,  or  whether  some 
great  cataclysm  of  nature  extinguished  the  progress  of  ages 
at  a  stroke,  may  forever  remain  a  secret. 

The  bird  life  around  San  Agustin  was  varied  and  abun- 
dant. Trees  were  in  blossom,  especially  one  with  a  feath- 
ery, pinkish  flower  (Mimosa),  and  to  this  scores  of  hummers 
came.  One  species  had  a  slightly  curved  bill  and  was  green 
in  color,  with  a  patch  of  deepest  purple  on  the  throat;  an- 
other of  a  blue  color  had  tail-feathers  six  inches  long.  In 
the  ravines  there  were  many  chachalacas  that  kept  up  a 
demoniacal  cackling.  The  bushes  were  full  of  finches  and 
lovely  velvety  red  tanagers,  while  honey-creepers  came  to 
our  table  daily  and  gorged  themselves  on  sugar.  In  the 
forest  we  saw  many  large,  woolly  monkeys,  some  bluish, 
others  silvery  gray.  There  were  kinkajous,  agoutis,  and 
peccaries.  The  two-toed  sloth  was  abundant;  the  flesh 
of  all  these  animals  was  greedily  eaten  by  the  natives. 
Numbers  of  large  lizards  or  iguanas  prowled  about  the 
town  and  feasted  on  the  tiny  chickens  and  ducklings.  A 
flight  of  locusts  covered  the  entire  upper  Magdalena,  and 
for  days  the  air  was  black  with  the  pest;  millions  would 
rise  from  the  ground  in  a  steady  cloud  in  front  of  us  as  we 
walked  along  through  the  fields.  In  a  few  days  not  a  speck 
of  green  remained.  The  hungry,  insatiable  hordes  moved 
on,  but  behind  them  remained  a  wide,  brown  desert,  filled 
with  sorrow  and  desolation,  for  the  crops  of  corn,  yuccas, 
and  bananas  had  been  destroyed  and  there  would  be  famine 
for  many  months  to  come. 

We  scouted  the  forests  daily,  confining  our  search  to  the 
untrodden  ravines  of  the  Rio  Naranjos,  a  turbulent,  wicked 
stream  that  joins  the  Magdalena  a  short  distance  below. 
Great  precipices  flank  its  sides  and  the  water  rushes  through 
dark,  narrow  gorges.  Everywhere  the  river-bed  is  dotted 
with  great  boulders  against  which  the  water  dashes  with  a 


A  mountain  stream,  such  as  the  Rio  Naranjos,  where  the  cock-of-the-rock 
spends  its  existence. 


IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK  89 

force  that  sends  clouds  of  spray  into  the  air.  The  slopes  of 
the  mountains  and  ravines  are  covered  with  a  dense  palm 
jungle,  the  trees  laden  with  bunches  of  purple  berries.  It 
is  in  places  such  as  these  that  the  cock-of-the-rock  spends 
its  existence.  After  several  weeks  of  the  most  strenuous 
work  our  efforts  were  rewarded:  we  came  suddenly  upon  a 
flock  of  male  birds  in  the  top  of  a  palm,  the  bright  scarlet 
color  of  the  wonderful  creatures  flaming  among  the  deep- 
green  fronds  in  a  dazzling  manner  as  they  flitted  about, 
and  with  outstretched  necks  and  raucous  "eur-rr-ks"  sur- 
veyed the  disturbers  of  their  time-honored  solitude.  We 
were  the  first  human  beings  to  penetrate  their  jungle  fast- 
ness and  excited  curiosity  rather  than  fear.  The  mere  sight 
of  these  beautiful  birds  in  their  wild  surroundings  was 
worth  all  the  discomforts  of  the  long  journey.  In  size  they 
are  no  larger  than  domestic  pigeons,  but  the  color  is  of  a 
most  intense  and  brilliant  scarlet,  with  wings  and  tail  of 
black;  the  upper  wing-coverts  are  of  a  light  shade  of  gray, 
and  the  eyes  and  feet  are  golden  yellow;  a  flat  crest  an  inch 
and  a  half  high  completely  covers  the  head  and  hides  the 
yellow  bill.  The  female  is  of  a  dull  shade  of  brown. 

We  wanted  to  find  their  nests  and  to  study  their  home 
life,  of  which  little  was  known;  also  to  secure  material  for 
the  museum  group.  With  the  aid  of  Indians,  and  ropes 
made  of  creepers,  we  began  to  explore  the  face  of  the 
cliffs,  some  of  which  were  a  hundred  feet  high.  On  many 
of  the  steep  slopes  the  palms  grew  so  close  together  that  we 
utilized  them  as  ladders.  As  it  rained  nearly  every  day  the 
footholds  were  very  slippery,  and  many  times  one  or  an- 
other of  the  party  fell,  being  saved  from  being  dashed  on 
the  rocks  far  below  only  by  the  rope  that  bound  us 
together. 

One  day,  as  we  crept  along  slowly  and  painfully,  we 
flushed  a  bird  of  sombre  brown  from  a  great  boulder  that 
rose  from  the  centre  of  the  stream.  We  waited  breathlessly 
while  she  fluttered  about  in  the  palms  and  then  returned 
to  the  rock.  She  flew  many  times  back  and  forth;  carry- 


90  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

ing  food  in  her  bill,  and  at  last  I  discerned  a  dark  object 
against  the  face  of  the  rock  upon  which  the  bird  centred  her 
attention.  There  was  no  longer  cause  for  concealment,  so 
we  moved  to  the  edge  of  the  torrent  and  saw  the  grass  and 
mud  nest  plastered  against  the  face  of  the  rock;  below  raged 
a  whirlpool,  and  on  each  side  there  was  a  waterfall.  A 
more  inaccessible  spot  could  not  have  been  chosen  by  the 
bird,  whose  haunts  had  never  been  violated. 

After  a  consultation  the  Indians  decided  to  build  a  raft, 
and  accordingly  cut  down  trees  and  lashed  the  trunks  to- 
gether, but  no  sooner  had  the  craft  been  launched  than  it 
was  caught  by  the  raging  swirl  and  spun  about  until  the 
creepers  parted  and  we  found  ourselves  struggling  in  the 
whirlpool.  A  great  liana  which  had  been  securely  tied  to 
the  raft  and  fastened  on  the  bank  swept  past,  and  this 
proved  to  be  our  salvation. 

A  tall  tree  was  now  felled,  and  its  course  so  directed  that 
the  top  should  fall  across  the  inaccessible  rock  island,  but 
it  fell  several  yards  short  and  again  we  were  outwitted. 

The  sun  was  now  directly  overhead,  and  the  fierce  rays 
entered  the  narrow  confines  of  the  canyon  so  that  it  was 
stiflingly  hot.  Angry  peals  of  thunder  warned  us  of  the 
approaching  storm,  and  red  howling  monkeys,  disturbed 
from  their  midday  rest,  roared  dismally.  Above,  the  river 
flowed  like  a  greenish  stream  of  molten  glass;  below,  it 
dashed  through  the  gorge  with  a  dull  roar,  and  to  the  tow- 
ering boulder  in  the  centre  clung  a  treasure,  to  possess  which 
men  had  risked  then-  lives;  but  on  the  very  verge  of  success 
we  seemed  likely  to  fail.  Even  the  Indians,  pioneers  of  the 
jungle,  shook  their  heads  doubtfully  and  wanted  to  return. 

We  tried  the  only  remaining  resource.  With  poles  and 
lines  two  of  the  Indians  and  myself  picked  our  way  to  a 
number  of  small  rocks  that  jutted  out  of  the  angry  flood  at 
the  very  mouth  of  the  gorge.  The  other  Indian  spliced  to- 
gether joints  of  slender  bamboo  and  climbed  out  into  the 
branch  of  the  fallen  tree  which  had  lodged  against  some 
rocks.  From  this  precarious  position  he  made  repeated 


IN  QUEST  OF  THE  COCK-OF-THE-ROCK  91 

thrusts  at  the  nest;  finally  it  fell  and  began  its  maddening 
career  in  the  whirlpool.  Around  it  went,  many  times,  and 
then  shot  straight  for  the  gorge,  swerving  toward  the  rock 
on  which  Juan  stood.  As  we  shouted  encouragement  Juan 
dived.  In  spite  of  the  fact  that  he  was  a  powerful  swim- 
mer we  doubted  if  we  should  ever  see  him  again,  but  after 
what  seemed  minutes  he  reappeared,  battling  furiously 
with  the  flood  that  sought  to  sweep  him  into  the  mael- 
strom. We  threw  him  a  line  and  dragged  him  ashore.  In 
his  mouth  he  held  the  precious  nest,  a  young  bird,  drowned, 
still  clinging  to  the  grass  lining. 

Later,  and  under  circumstances  hardly  less  thrilling,  we 
found  other  birds  and  nests  with  both  eggs  and  young,  but 
we  took  only  those  that  were  absolutely  necessary.  The 
others,  and  there  were  many,  we  left  to  the  eternal  mys- 
tery of  the  wilderness,  to  dance  in  the  shadows  and  to  woo 
their  mates  beside  the  rushing  waters;  to  rear  their  young 
and  to  lead  the  life  that  was  intended  for  them  from  the 
beginning. 


CHAPTER  VII 
CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  INTO  THE  CAQUETA 

OF  the  many  little-known  places  in  South  America,  the 
least  known  lie  eastward  of  the  eastern  base  of  the  Andes. 
One  such  region  is  the  Caqueta  of  Colombia.  We  had  been 
considering  the  feasibility  of  undertaking  a  trip  into  this 
country,  but  the  departure  for  home  of  my  companion, 
Doctor  Allen,  and  Mr.  Lloyd,  from  San  Agustin,  left  me 
alone  in  the  field,  and  I  doubted  the  advisability  of  taking 
the  journey  without  their  assistance.  From  all  the  infor- 
mation I  could  gather,  the  crossing  of  the  Eastern  Range 
presented  great  difficulties  and  would  have  to  be  accom- 
plished on  foot.  The  rainy  season  had  set  in,  adding  to 
the  difficulties  of  travel.  Also,  the  rivers  were  swollen  to 
such  an  extent  that  there  was  danger  of  our  being  stopped 
at  any  one  of  them;  or,  far  worse,  of  being  unable  to  recross 
them  upon  our  return.  However,  a  nearer  view  invariably 
changes  the  perspective,  so  I  determined  to  approach  the 
region  as  near  as  possible,  gather  all  the  data  available, 
and  then  follow  the  course  that  seemed  best. 

Accordingly,  we  bade  a  reluctant  farewell  to  San  Agustin 
one  Sunday  morning.  The  entire  village  turned  out  to 
see  us  depart  and  gave  us  numerous  tokens  of  their  good- 
will and  friendship  in  the  form  of  embroidered  handker- 
chiefs, panama  hats,  food,  and  pets.  An  old  Indian  sol- 
emnly presented  me  with  a  small  monkey,  which  he  said 
could  cry  if  spanked  thoroughly;  he  offered  to  give  a  dem- 
onstration of  the  creature's  accomplishment,  but  I  assured 
him  that  his  word  was  sufficient.  A  parrot  was  contributed 
by  another  person  who  said  it  would  be  good  company,  as 
it  "conversed"  well.  The  Vaya  con  Dios!  of  these  simple, 

92 


CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  93 

honest  folk  was  touching,  and  we  took  away  with  us  only 
the  most  pleasant  memories  and  friendliest  feeling. 

After  a  three  days'  ride  through  level  plains  and  gently 
rolling  grasslands  we  forded  the  Rio  Suaza  and  drew  rein 
in  the  town  of  Guadaloupe.  It  stands  at  the  foot  of  the 
Cordillera  Oriental.  A  trail  was  being  constructed  from 
this  point  across  the  mountains  and  into  Amazonian  drain- 
age; however,  work  had  little  more  than  begun,  and  the 
reports  of  the  route  we  had  from  the  villagers  were  not  very 
encouraging. 

There  was  nothing  of  particular  interest  about  the  vil- 
lage. We  moved  to  a  site  known  as  La  Danta  three  thou- 
sand five  hundred  feet  up  the  slope.  There  was  abundant 
woods  all  around  in  which  we  hunted  with  good  results 
nearly  three  weeks. 

One  day  a  party  of  Indians  made  camp  on  the  bank  of  a 
creek  not  far  from  La  Danta,  and  immediately  built  a 
rock  and  mud  dam  across  the  little  waterway.  Then  they 
crushed  a  great  many  leaves  of  the  yucca-plant  and  threw 
them  into  the  stream.  The  milky  juice  quickly  mingled 
with  the  water,  and  soon  scores  of  catfish  came  to  the  top, 
stupefied 'by  the  poison,  and  floating  on  their  backs.  They 
were  gathered  by  the  basketful  and  taken  away  by  the 
Indians.  These  catfish,  living  in  rapid  mountain  streams, 
are  provided  with  a  sucking  disk  which  enables  them  to 
attach  themselves  to  a  rock  to  rest;  otherwise  they  would 
be  washed  down  stream,  as  they  are  not  very  powerful 
swimmers. 

The  cost  of  being  married  is  so  high  in  some  South  Ameri- 
can countries  that  in  many  cases  the  ceremony  is  dispensed 
with.  Occasionally,  however,  bands  of  missionaries  visit  a 
region  and  attempt  to  undo  the  wrong  inflicted  by  the  local 
padres  by  uniting  in  marriage  free  of  charge  all  those  who 
appear  before  them  for  that  purpose.  The  padres  are  not 
always  to  blame;  frequently  the  inhabitants  are  simply  too 
indifferent  or  lazy  to  go  through  the  formalities,  or  there  may 
be  no  one  in  their  midst  to  look  after  their  spiritual  wants. 


94  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

While  we  were  at  La  Danta  a  half-dozen  priests  came  to 
Guadaloupe  and  urged  the  paisanos  to  take  advantage  of 
this  opportunity  to  become  united  in  wedlock  according  to 
the  ritual  of  the  church.  The  people  listened  to  the  exhor- 
tations, promised  to  heed  the  admonitions,  and — failed  to 
show  up  at  the  proper  time.  Then  the  padres  lost  patience 
and  talked  the  matter  over  with  the  jefe.  The  latter  sent 
out  soldiers  to  scour  the  country  and  bring  in  all  the  offend- 
ers living  together  within  a  radius  of  many  miles;  the  pairs 
were  frequently  brought  in  handcuffed  together,  all  objec- 
tions and  excuses  being  promptly  overruled  or  ignored  by 
the  officiating  clergy.  Then  they  were  lined  up  and  mar- 
ried. 

Several  weeks  later  I  was  the  guest  of  a  very  high  gov- 
ernment official  in  another  state.  In  the  course  of  dinner 
conversation  the  senora  asked  me  in  the  most  casual  way: 
"Tell  me !  In  your  country,  do  people  get  married,  or  asi, 
no  mas  like  here?"  The  last  phrase  was  accompanied  by 
a  dainty  snap  of  the  fingers.  I  am  afraid  I  said:  "Asi,  no 
nfol" 

From  peons  working  on  the  new  road  we  learned  that 
their  operations  had  extended  to  a  point  near  the  top  of 
the  range,  and  that  a  tambo,  or  rest-shack,  had  been  built 
there  to  shelter  the  laborers.  We  immediately  started  for 
the  place  and  by  dint  of  hard  travel  reached  it  in  one  day's 
time.  The  shack  bore  the  name  Andalucia  and  was  seven 
thousand  nine  hundred  feet  up.  The  peons  gladly  shared 
their  quarters  with  us,  and  we  divided  our  rations  with 
them,  which  must  have  been  a  welcome  change  from  their 
everlasting  boiled  corn  and  panela. 

The  weather  at  Andalucia  was  most  severe;  fog,  strong 
wind,  almost  continuous  rain,  and  a  freezing  temperature 
reminded  us  of  conditions  on  a  paramo  at  the  worst  season 
of  the  year.  Also,  the  forest  was  dense,  and  the  vast  num- 
ber of  fallen  trunks  and  branches  rendered  the  greater  part 
of  it  impenetrable.  Birds  were  scarce  and  hard  to  find, 
but  small  mammals  were  plentiful. 


CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  95 

The  foreman  of  the  work  gang  had  cleared  a  few  acres 
of  land  and  sowed  wheat,  but  the  chances  of  harvesting  a 
crop  were  very  small,  because  it  seemed  as  if  all  the  rats 
and  mice  for  miles  around  had  located  the  spot  and  promptly 
migrated  there  to  unearth  the  seed  and  cut  down  the  ten- 
der shoots. 

Water  for  drinking  and  cooking  was  secured  from  a  deep 
pit  dug  in  the  slope.  One  of  our  first  cares  always  is  to  in- 
vestigate the  water-supply  of  the  region  in  which  we  are 
working;  an  inspection  of  the  excavation  near  the  tambo  re- 
vealed a  most  astounding  state  of  affairs;  three  earthworms, 
as  large  as  good-sized  snakes,  make  the  reservoir  their 
home.  They  resembled  the  well-known  "shiners"  that  ap- 
pear on  our  lawns  after  a  shower;  but  the  size !  The  larg- 
est, by  actual  measurement,  was  thirty-seven  inches  long 
and  four  inches  in  circumference.  When  I  asked  the  cook  for 
an  explanation  as  to  why  he  did  not  remove  them  and  keep 
the  water  clean,  he  promptly  informed  me  that  they  were 
cojures  (cohoories)  that  he  had  dug  up  in  the  woods  and 
placed  there  for  safe-keeping  until  he  had  time  to  use  them 
on  a  fishing  trip  in  the  low  country.  Needless  to  say,  per- 
haps, his  pets  promptly  disappeared;  he  always  insinuated 
that  they  had  met  with  foul  play  at  my  hands ! 

One  day  a  person  of  distinguished  appearance  rode  up 
the  road  and  introduced  himself  as  General  Rafael  Santos, 
of  Bogota".  He  had  heard  that  we  were  in  the  locality  and 
wanted  to  get  into  the  Caqueta.  Could  he  be  of  any  ser- 
vice to  us?  As  he  was  in  control  of  the  work  being  done 
on  the  new  trail,  he  certainly  was  in  a  position  to  be  of 
great  help.  He  told  us  of  conditions  on  the  eastern  slope 
and  also  of  the  country  we  were  so  eager  to  see;  before  leav- 
ing, one  of  his  peons  was  despatched  down  the  trail  to  in- 
form his  scouting-parties  that  we  would  follow  within  a 
short  time,  and  for  them  to  have  camping-places  prepared 
for  us. 

We  lost  no  time  in  starting  on  the  trip.  I  had  with  me 
several  natives  who  had  been  with  the  expedition  some 


96  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

months,  and  their  number  was  augmented  by  men  from 
Guadaloupe  who  were  eager  to  have  a  hand  in  the  under- 
taking. Every  one  walked,  the  peons  carrying  the  packs; 
but  mules  were  driven  ahead  to  test  the  trail,  and  also  for 
use  after  we  reached  the  level  low  country. 

The  heavy  subtropical  forest  that  begins  at  La  Danta 
continues  on  to  the  top  of  the  range,  and  down  the  other 
side  in  an  unbroken  mass  of  solid,  living  green.  There  were 
practically  no  signs  of  life,  but  the  wind  blew  less  violently 
and  the  cold  was  less  intense  and  not  so  penetrating  as  at 
Andalucia. 

The  slope  is  less  abrupt  than  on  the  western  side.  On 
the  second  night  a  palm-leaf  lean-to  called  El  Paraiso  was 
reached.  The  elevation  was  two  thousand  four  hundred 
and  twenty-five  feet.  A  number  of  bedraggled  and  dis- 
contented laborers  had  erected  this  shelter  and  said  they 
would  stay  there  without  doing  another  stroke  of  work 
until  their  pay,  several  months  overdue,  should  arrive. 
Perhaps  they  are  still  camping  there,  unless  the  prospect  of 
starving  to  death  forced  them  to  move,  as  we  had  heard 
several  times  that  the  foremen  were  in  the  habit  of  drawing 
the  money  for  all  the  men  under  them,  and  then  decamp- 
ing for  parts  unknown. 

Beyond  "the  paradise"  the  way  lay  through  a  region 
that  might  well  be  called  El  Infierno.  There  was  an  un- 
broken succession  of  pools  and  sinks  so  that  we  struggled 
onward  hour  after  hour  through  water  and  thin  mud  sev- 
eral feet  deep.  Contrary  to  our  expectations,  we  had  been 
able  to  use  the  mules  for  very  light  packs  on  parts  of  the 
previous  day's  journey;  but  now  they  floundered  and  caused 
so  much  trouble  that  we  heartily  regretted  not  having  left 
them  behind. 

On  the  following  days  the  country  was  dotted  with  steep, 
rocky  foot-hills,  alternated  with  deep,  muddy  depressions. 
Rain  fell  almost  continuously,  but  it  served  to  keep  away 
troublesome  insects.  The  peons  were  cheerful  withal  and 
seemed  to  enjoy  the  experience  in  spite  of  the  hard  work. 


CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  97 

However,  it  was  with  a  feeling  of  relief  that  we  emerged 
from  the  mountainous  country  and  entered  a  stretch  of 
level  forest,  the  elevation  of  which  was  one  thousand  feet. 
From  the  edge  of  this  "plateau"  we  had  our  first  view  of 
the  Caqueta" — a  perfect  ocean  of  forest  stretching  out  ahead 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  see,  which  on  clear  days  is  a  distance 
of  many  miles.  The  sight  is  most  impressive.  Not  a 
single  rise  is  visible  above  the  uniform  expanse  of  green,  as 
the  trees  appear  to  be  all  of  the  same  height. 

We  stopped  at  the  first  native  hut  encountered,  which 
was  but  a  ten-minute  walk  from  the  settlement  of  Floren- 
cia.  There  was  a  clearing  of  considerable  size;  the  greater 
part  of  it  was  overgrown  with  grass  and  weeds,  but  there 
were  also  fields  of  cane  and  plantains.  The  latter  were  the 
finest  I  have  ever  found  in  all  South  America — eighteen 
inches  long  and  sweeter  and  better  flavored  than  the  best 
bananas.  It  was  almost  impossible  to  grow  sugar-cane  in 
any  quantity;  capibaras  were  abundant  along  the  streams 
and  made  nightly  inroads  on  the  plantation,  devastating 
large  areas  on  each  visit. 

The  great  Amazonian  forest  extending  on  all  sides  was 
full  of  surprising  sounds  emanating  from  a  fauna  entirely 
new  to  us.  For  the  first  time  we  heard  the  clear,  ringing 
whistle  of  the  "false  bell-bird"  (Lathria  tinerea).  The 
penetrating  whoo-ee-whee-oo  filled  the  woods  with  music  as 
the  birds  called  to  one  another,  but  the  obscurely  colored 
singers  were  hard  to  see  among  the  dark  branches.  The 
song  contains  several  low,  churring  notes  that  are  lost  from 
a  distance. 

The  abundance  and  variety  of  wild  life  was  so  great  as  to 
almost  bewilder  us  and  we  worked  day  and  night  preparing 
the  wealth  of  material  that  came  into^our  hands.  Work- 
ing conditions  were  most  unfavorable;  it  rained  daily; 
sand-flies  took  away  a  great  deal  of  the  pleasure  that  each 
day  brought  in  the  form  of  new  and  interesting  creatures, 
while  mosquitoes  and  fleas  insisted  on  gaining  an  entrance 
under  the  nets  and  making  the  nights  disagreeable.  Every 


98  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

member  of  the  expedition  suffered  from  malaria  during 
our  entire  stay  in  the  Caquetd  region.  Notwithstanding 
these  handicaps,  we  lost  not  a  single  day,  and  the  collec- 
tions rapidly  grew  to  record-breaking  size. 

It  was,  of  course,  necessary  to  depend  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent upon  native  hunters.  They  were  always  carefully  in- 
structed as  to  the  area  they  should  visit  and  how  to  work 
it;  from  the  results  they  obtained  I  could  usually  tell 
whether  directions  had  been  followed.  One  of  these  caza- 
dores  was  a  lazy,  thoroughly  good-natured  half-breed  named 
Abrdn.  He  came  in  daily  with  a  tale  of  woe,  recounting  in 
detail  the  great  distance  he  had  covered,  the  hardships  of 
such  a  long  tramp  through  the  jungle,  and — bringing  few 
specimens.  I  pretended  to  believe  his  stories,  knowing  full 
well  all  the  while  that  he  had  really  selected  a  comfortable 
spot  a  mile  or  so  away  and  then  settled  down  on  a  log  for 
a  quiet  day  of  smoking  and  day-dreaming.  When  any  ani- 
mal came  within  sight  he  shot  it.  In  this  manner  he  se- 
cured many  of  the  shy,  ground-haunting  species,  such  as 
rails,  tinamou,  and  ant-birds  that  one  seldom  sees  while 
moving  about  through  the  forest.  This  was  exactly  what  I 
wanted.  It  is  all  but  impossible  to  find  a  native  hunter 
with  patience  enough  to  sit  and  wait  for  these  things,  so 
while  Abrdn  thought  he  was  playing  an  easy  game,  he  was 
in  reality  the  most  valuable  peon  in  the  outfit.  His  brother 
Moists  was  of  the  opposite  temperament;  he  walked  many 
miles  each  day  and  considered  it  beneath  his  dignity  to 
shoot  anything  but  large,  brilliantly  colored  birds,  such  as 
parrots,  macaws,  cotingas,  and  tanagers,  or  monkeys — in 
short,  game  worthy  of  a  man's  efforts.  The  two  brothers 
made  an  ideal  combination. 

Moists  had  spoken  frequently  about  a  marvellous  bird 
called  tente  which  he  said  was  found  in  the  region,  and  of 
which  he  was  determined  to  secure  one  as  a  pet  for  the  pa- 
tron. One  day  he  brought  in  a  queer,  frightened  little  crea- 
ture— all  legs  and  neck — that  he  proudly  introduced  as  the 
tente.  It  was  a  young  trumpeter  (Psophia).  After  being 


Tree-fern,  typical  of  the  Andean  forests. 


CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  99 

tied  up  a  few  days  it  grew  very  tame  and  was  given  full 
liberty  about  the  place.  It  walked  slowly  and  in  dignified 
fashion,  catching  flies  and  pecking  at  insects  on  the  ground 
or  walls;  but  if  a  dog  should  chance  to  pass  near  by  it  darted 
at  it  with  outspread  wings,  making  a  loud,  mmbling  sound 
deep  down  in  its  breast;  the  dog  always  fled  in  terror.  The 
bird  increased  rapidly  in  size  and  before  long  the  beautiful 
metallic-blue  throat-feathers  appeared.  When  we  emerged 
from  the  hammocks  in  the  early  mornings  it  was  always 
there  to  greet  us  with  low  bows,  spread  wings,  and  deep 
murmurings.  In  travelling,  a  large-meshed  fibre  bag  served 
as  its  container;  upon  being  turned  loose  when  camp  was 
made,  it  first  carefully  dried  its  plumage  before  the  fire,  then 
strutted  around  a  while,  and  finally  flew  into  the  branches  of 
the  nearest  tree  to  spend  the  night.  We  kept  this  interest- 
ing little  pet  until  our  departure  from  Colombia,  and  then 
gave  it  to  an  acquaintance  in  Neiva,  where  it  was  well 
cared  for. 

A  colony  of  cultivator-ants  had  taken  possession  of  a 
patch  of  young  cecropia-trees  near  the  house.  They  car- 
ried particles  of  earth  to  the  branches  and  formed  them 
into  large  balls  in  which  the  seeds  of  a  succulent  plant  were 
sowed  and  cultivated.  The  earth  was  kept  loose  and  mois- 
tened and  the  bunch  of  tender  shoots  resembled  a  clump  of 
mistletoe.  In  this  manner  an  abundant  food-supply  was 
assured. 

Florencia  was  a  small  village  of  adobe  and  bamboo  huts, 
built  in  anticipation  of  the  opening  of  Colombian  Amazonia, 
when  the  new  trail  across  the  Andes  should  be  completed. 
The  region  is  undoubtedly  rich  in  natural  resources,  and 
there  seemed  to  be  a  possibility  that  the  dreams  of  these 
pioneer  settlers  might  some  day  be  fulfilled.  However,  five 
years  later,  while  aboard  the  S.  S.  Vauban,  bound  for  New 
York,  I  chanced  to  meet  among  the  passengers  a  Colombian 
with  whom  I  had  become  acquainted  in  Florencia.  He 
stated  that  the  climate  there  had  proved  so  unhealthful 
that  most  of  the  people  had  died  or  gone  away  and  the 


100  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

settlement  was  all  but  deserted.  The  elevation  of  the  site, 
though  thousands  of  miles  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  into 
which  its  rivers  drain,  is  only  six  hundred  and  seventy-five 
feet. 

During  our  stay  in  the  vicinity  we  had  occasion  to  wit- 
ness a  celebration  of  the  feast  of  San  Juan.  On  the  eve  of 
the  festival  a  pig  was  slaughtered  in  each  hut;  those  who 
had  none  went  into  the  jungle  and  shot  a  wild  one.  The 
dressed  carcass  was  placed  in  an  oblong  wooden  bowl,  sur- 
rounded with  plantains,  yuccas,  and  yams,  and  then  baked 
four  hours  in  a  mud  oven.  The  roasts  were  delicious  and 
every  one  ate  until  not  a  morsel  remained,  which  was  far 
into  the  night.  Next  day  the  fiesta  proper  began  with  a 
bull-fight,  local  talent,  shirtless  and  in  tattered  drawers,  sup- 
plying the  places  of  the  gorgeous  toreadores,  banderilleros, 
and  matadores.  This  was  a  fine  chance  for  the  youths  to 
display  their  courage  to  the  weaker  sex,  which  had  gathered 
en  masse  to  witness  the  performance,  and,  if  one  enjoys 
such  spectacles,  he  would  doubtless  say  that  the  showing 
made  was  quite  creditable.  The  men  charged  the  bull, 
flourishing  their  bright-colored  ponchos,  and  when  the  ani- 
mal turned  the  tables  and  chased  them  they  fled  to  shelter, 
as  is  the  custom  of  the  profession.  We  did  not  remain  to 
see  the  finish,  but  later  in  the  day  the  women  were  roasting 
chunks  of  beef  over  open  fires.  The  merrymaking  con- 
tinued for  several  days,  and  the  latter  part  of  the  period 
consisted  in  drinking  aguardiente,  with  the  resultant  fight- 
ing that  always  marks  the  wind-up  of  such  affairs.  The 
alcalde  was  a  leading  spirit  in  the  activities  of  the  festive 
occasion;  he  had  been  a  priest  at  one  time,  but  was  excom- 
municated for  preaching  sermons  of  too  liberal  a  nature. 
Then  he  married  and  was  rearing  a  family.  He  told  us 
that  he  owned  a  ranch  called  La  Morelia,  two  days'  distant 
from  Florencia,  and  offered  to  send  us  there;  so  we  accepted 
his  courtesy  with  pleasure,  as  we  were  eager  to  see  the 
country  farther  in  the  interior. 

A  faintly  defined  footpath  led  to  La  Morelia.    The  forest 


CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  101 

is  comparatively  open,  that  is,  free  from  dense  undergrowth. 
The  trees  are  tall  and  there  are  a  few  tree-ferns  and  palms; 
many  climbing  lilies  and  other  epiphytes  grow  on  the  trunks 
and  branches.  Moss  is  lacking;  near  the  streams  bamboo, 
wild  cane,  high  grass,  and  briars,  united  by  creepers,  form 
dense  jungles  that  are  hard  to  penetrate.  Streams  and 
rivers  are  numerous  and  we  were  at  once  impressed  with 
their  size  and  depth.  Crossings  were  effected  in  dugout 
canoes.  While  the  current  is  swift,  the  waterways  are  so 
silent  that  one  is  not  aware  of  their  existence  until  reaching 
then-  very  borders. 

We  saw  little  of  the  Huitoto  Indians  inhabiting  this  dis- 
trict. They  seem  to  remain  in  seclusion  in  their  forest 
homes  and  rarely  venture  into  the  path  of  the  settlers. 
Those  we  encountered  were  of  low  stature,  yellow  in  color, 
and  had  features  so  nearly  resembling  the  Japanese  that 
they  might  be  easily  mistaken  for  that  race.  They  are  of  a 
shy  and  retiring  disposition.  Their  ornaments  were  very 
elaborate,  consisting  of  anklets,  amulets,  and  necklaces  of 
colored  seeds  and  jaguar  and  monkey  teeth,  skilfully  wrought 
into  pleasing  combinations. 

The  hut  at  La  Morelia  was  of  large  dimensions,  built 
entirely  of  bamboo,  with  palm-leaf  roof.  An  unusual  fea- 
ture .was  that  it  contained  two  stories,  the  lower  used  to 
..store  grain  and  plantains,  the  upper  serving  as  living  quar- 
ters. A  clearing  about  one  hundred  acres  in  extent  sur- 
rounded it;  most  of  it  was  grass-covered,  providing  pastur- 
age for  a  few  head  of  cattle,  the  remainder  was  under  culti- 
vation. The  several  acres  that  had  been  given  to  growing 
plantains  produced  so  abundantly  that  hundreds  of  bunches 
-were  going  to  waste.  If  left  to  mature  on  the  plant  the 
.fruit  bursts  and  is  destroyed  by  insects.  The  choicest  clus- 
ters were  cut  green  and  then  placed  in  a  down-stairs  room 
of  the  house  to  ripen.  At  night  hundreds  of  small  bats 
.visited  the  enclosure  to  feed  on  the  mountain  of  rapidly 
.yellowing  .fruit.  'We  desired  some  of  the  creatures  for  our 
collections,  but  found  it  difficult  to  catch  or  shoot  them  in 


102  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

sufficient  numbers.  Finally  we  evolved  the  plan  of  sus- 
pending a  fish-net  from  the  ceiling  and  tacking  out  the 
edges  so  that  it  formed  a  cone  with  a  wide  b?s^.  A  choice 
bunch  of  the  ripest  plantains  was  placed  in  the  centre  for 
bait.  Bats  soon  gathered  about  the  trap  in  swarms.  At 
first  they  were  suspicious  and  circled  around  the  net  with- 
out attempting  to  alight;  but  as  their  hunger  increased  so 
their  caution  decreased  in  like  proportion,  and  before  long 
they  were  striking  the  conical  arrangement  from  all  sides 
and  madly  endeavoring  to  scramble  through  the  small 
meshes.  Some  succeeded  in  forcing  their  way  through 
the  openings  and  immediately  fell  upon  the  bait  with 
ravenous  appetites;  the  vast  majority,  however,  became 
helplessly  entangled  in  the  meshes.  Newcomers  arrived 
in  a  steady  stream;  they  paid  no  attention  to  our  pres- 
ence nor  to  the  lights  we  carried,  but  frantically  hurled 
themselves  into  the  midst  of  their  struggling  brethren, 
until  the  net  was  covered  with  screeching,  scrambling 
masses. 

The  house  was  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  Rio  Bodo- 
quera — a  stream  two  hundred  yards  wide.  One  night  a 
jaguar  attacked  the  cattle  and  chased  them  on  to  a  sand- 
spit  that  projected  out  into  the  stream.  We  heard  the 
mad  bellowing  of  the  frightened  animals  as  they  stampeded 
past  the  shack,  hotly  pursued  by  the  snarling  jaguar.  A 
few  shots  sufficed  to  frighten  the  big  spotted  cat  back  into 
the  jungle,  but  the  cattle  refused  to  leave  the  strategic  po- 
sition, to  which  they  had  retreated.  The  river  was  rising 
rapidly,  endangering  the  panic-stricken  creatures.  Every 
hand  turned  out;  we  took  lanterns  with  us  and,  manning 
the  canoes,  paddled  to  the  far  side  of  the  peninsula  and  at- 
tempted to  drive  them  back  to  the  mainland.  All  our 
efforts  were  in  vain.  The  work  was  very  exciting,  as  en- 
raged members  of  the  herd  charged  the  lights  repeatedly 
when  we  approached  close  to  them.  Finally  the  water 
became  so  deep  that  the  animals  had  to  swim,  and  then 
they  made  for  the  far  side  of  the  river  and  disappeared  from 


The  high,  flat-topped  panorama  of  the  Andes. 


CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  103 

view.  It  took  several  days  to  round  them  up,  but  a  num- 
ber were  never  seen  again. 

One  day  a  Franciscan  priest  stopped  at  the  rancho  for  a 
short  rest.  He  was  engaged  in  opening  a  trail  to  Mocoa. 
About  twenty  peons  accompanied  him,  carrying  his  outfit. 
His  robe  was  in  tatters  and  his  feet  were  bare;  he  had  spent 
months  in  the  jungles  and  showed  the  effects  of  hard  usage. 
Each  of  his  men  carried  an  animal  of  some  kind  on  top  of 
his  pack.  There  were  monkeys,  parrots,  macaws,  and  a 
curious  little  creature  belonging  to  the  agouti  family  (Myo- 
procta)  that  they  called  tin-tin.  We  had  seen  numbers  of 
the  latter  along  the  river-bank,  where  they  lived  in  bur- 
rows. The  flesh  is  white  and  of  fine  flavor.  In  spite  of 
the  hardships  the  priest  and  his  party  had  endured  they 
were  in  the  best  of  humor,  and  after  an  hour's  halt  shoul- 
dered their  packs  and  resumed  the  march.  No  one  will 
dispute  the  fact  that  men  of  this  type  have  done  a  great 
deal  toward  exploring  unknown  parts  of  South  America; 
usually  they  are  the  real  trail-breakers  and  lead  the  way 
for  the  pioneer  settlers  who  are  to  follow. 

The  bird-life  of  the  Caqueta"  is  typical  of  the  Amazonian 
forest,  and  many  of  the  species  are  found  on  the  lower  river 
two  thousand  miles  away.  This  is  caused  by  the  uniform- 
ity of  topographical  conditions,  and  the  lack  of  a  barrier 
that  would  interfere  with  the  range  of  a  species.  On  all  of 
our  visits  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Amazon's  tributaries,  in 
Colombia,  Bolivia,  and  Brazil,  a  large  proportion  of  the 
mammals  collected  were  new  to  science  and  differed  greatly 
from  those  found  lower  down  the  river's  course.  Such 
large  animals  as  spider-monkeys  (Ateleus),  "flying"  mon- 
keys (Pithecid),  and  cats  represented  forms  heretofore  un- 
known to  science;  the  smaller  mammals  also  were  new  in 
many  instances.  Of  course,  we  must  not  lose  sight  of  the 
fact  that  the  power  of  flight  gives  greater  mobility  to  the 
birds  and  accounts  for  the  wider  range  of  some  of  them, 
but  not  for  the  equally  vast  distribution  of  the  ground- 
inhabiting  and  almost  flightless  species. 


104  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

After  a  strenuous  three  weeks  at  La  Morelia  we  returned 
to  our  first  stopping-place  near  Florencia.  The  rainy  sea- 
son was  at  its  worst,  and  low  clouds  covered  the  forest  day 
after  day,  while  torrents  of  water  fell  almost  continuously. 
The  journey  back  to  Guadaloupe  was  far  more  difficult 
than  had  been  our  entrance  into  the  region,  for  the  greater 
part  of  ik  lay  up-hill  and  mud  and  water  had  accumulated 
in  spots  until  it  was  waist-deep.  The  cold  grew  more  in- 
tense as  we  neared  the  top  of  the  range.  We  were  never 
warm  or  dry  until  we  reached  our  destination. 

The  maximum  time  allowed  for  work  in  Colombia  had 
expired.  Although  I  had  spent  over  eighteen  months  in 
the  republic,  they  had  flown  all  too  rapidly,  and  I  heartily 
regretted  that  it  was  not  possible  to  visit  the  numerous 
other  places  that  invited  exploration.  The  next  best  thing 
was  to  hope  for  a  return  trip  in  the  future — a  hope  that  was 
realized  several  years  later  in  our  expedition  to  the  Antio- 
quian  Highlands. 

The  homeward  trip  was  accomplished  without  noteworthy 
incident.  At  first  there  was  a  ride  of  five  days'  duration 
down  the  desert-like  valley  of  the  Magdalena  to  Neiva. 
The  river  is  not  navigable  in  this  part  of  its  course  on 
account  of  rapids  and  shallow  water.  At  Neiva  a  champdn, 
or  flat-bottomed  freight-boat,  was  secured.  The  crew  of 
twenty  men  rowed  it  down  to  Giradot  in  three  days;  it 
takes  them  thirty  days  to  pull  the  craft  back  up-stream  to 
the  starting-point. 

The  remainder  of  the  journey  to  Puerto  Colombia  was 
merely  a  matter  of  travel  on  river-steamers  and  train,  and 
required  two  weeks'  time. 

In  summarizing  the  work  of  the  expedition  to  the  Ca- 
quetd,  Doctor  Chapman,  in  "The  Distribution  of  Bird 
Life  in  Colombia,"  writes  as  follows: 

This  "work  during  the  rainy  season  in  the  humid  Ama- 
zonian forests  of  the  Caquetd,  where  with  only  unskilled 
native  assistance  he  secured  eight  hundred  and  thirty  birds 
and  mammals  in  thirty  days,  is  a  feat  in  tropical  collect- 


CROSSING  THE  EASTERN  ANDES  105 

ing."  And  "this  locality  .  .  .  was  one  of  the  most  pro- 
ductive of  any  visited  by  American  Museum  expeditions, 
and  many  species  were  secured  which  have  not  heretofore 
been  recorded  from  Colombia." 


CHAPTER  VIII 

ACROSS   THE   ANTIOQUIAN   GOLD-FIELDS   TO  PUERTO 
VALDIVIA  ON  THE  LOWER  CAUCA 

PUERTO  BERRIO  is  not  the  most  attractive  spot  in  Co- 
lombia, but  it  is  nevertheless  of  a  great  deal  of  importance. 
All  steamers  plying  on  the  Lower  Magdalena  stop  at  that 
port,  the  up-going  ones  after  a  six  days7  voyage  from  Bar- 
ranquilla  to  discharge  freight  for  Medellin,  and  those  bound 
down-stream  to  take  aboard  gold  and  other  products  of  the 
Antioquian  highlands. 

The  arrival  of  the  steamer  always  causes  a  great  deal 
of  confusion.  Debarking  passengers  are  required  to  look 
after  their  own  luggage,  which  is  not  a  simple  matter,  as  it 
is  invariably  covered  with  mountains  of  boxes  and  bags  on 
the  lower  deck;  and  after  it  has  been  located  it  is  necessary 
to  secure  peons  to  convey  it  ashore,  the  ship's  crew  invari- 
ably refusing  to  render  this  service. 

There  is  always  a  rush  for  the  little  hotel  "Magdalena," 
built  on  a  slight  bluff  overlooking  the  river.  Accommoda- 
tions are  limited,  and  those  who  arrive  first  naturally  have 
the  advantage  of  selecting  the  cooler  rooms  in  the  upper 
story.  However,  the  advantages  gained  are  partly  imagi- 
nary, at  best.  The  climate  is  insufferably  hot  in  the  day- 
time, and  mosquitoes  filtering  through  rents  in  the  nets 
protecting  the  beds  are  most  annoying  at  night.  Nor  is  it 
possible  to  seek  the  cooling  comfort  of  a  bath;  a  small, 
corrugated  iron  building  in  the  garden  is  supposed  to  pro- 
vide for  this  need,  but  a  tank  containing  water  for  the 
shower  is  placed  on  the  roof  in  the  full  glare  of  the  tropical 
sun,  and  the  water  becomes  heated  to  such  a  degree  that  it 
is  almost  scalding. 

The  town  of  Puerto  Berrio  is  situated  a  few  hundred 

106 


ACROSS  THE  ANTIOQUIAN  GOLD-FIELDS         107 

yards  below  the  landing.  It  contains  about  a  hundred 
low  buildings,  many  of  which  are  utilized  for  shops  where 
merchandise  and,  more  important  at  least  to  transients, 
a  great  variety  of  fruit  may  be  had.  All  the  buildings  are 
low — some  constructed  of  adobe  with  red  tile  roofs,  others 
of  nothing  more  substantial  than  bamboo,  and  grass  or 
palm-leaves. 

Beyond  the  town  is  a  low,  rambling  shed  used  as  a  slaugh- 
ter-house. When  one  tires  of  watching  the  blue  tanagers, 
orioles,  and  yellow  warblers  quarrel  in  the  cocoanut-palms 
near  the  hotel,  he  may  tempt  his  aesthetic  taste  by  walking 
to  the  pavilion  of  bovine  death,  and  look  upon  the  hun- 
dreds of  black  vultures  sitting  on  the  roof,  strutting  and 
hopping  over  the  ground,  or  tearing  at  the  hides  that  have 
been  stretched  out  to  dry.  These  birds  are  so  typical  a 
part  of  most  towns  and  villages  of  tropical  Colombia  that 
one  soon  learns  to  accept  them  as  a  matter  of  course.  They 
act  as  scavengers.  Without  them  the  settlements  would 
reek  with  foulness. 

Puerto  Berrio  marks  the  beginning  of  a  narrow-gauge 
railway,  and  each  morning  at  six  a  passenger-train  leaves 
the  station  for  Cisneros,  covering  the  first  stage  of  the 
journey  to  Medellin.  Almost  immediately  after  leaving 
the  port,  the  road  plunges  into  the  finest  type  of  Magda- 
lena  Valley  forest.  We  therefore  debarked  at  the  first  set- 
tlement, called  Malena,  only  fifteen  minutes  after  leaving 
the  starting-point.  My  assistant  on  this  expedition  was 
Mr.  Howarth  S.  Boyle,  of  Elmhurst,  Long  Island. 

At  Malena  the  tropical  forest  reaches  the  height  of  its 
development.  There  is  a  clearing  large  enough  only  to 
provide  room  for  the  village  of  some  twenty  houses,  and 
the  stately  living  wall  of  trees  hems  it  in  on  all  sides.  The 
people  are  most  obliging,  and  while  there  is  no  posada,  or 
inn,  of  any  kind,  a  Mestizo  family  volunteered  to  permit  us 
the  use  of  part  of  their  dwelling. 

A  short  tour  of  inspection  confirmed  our  first  impression 
of  the  region;  it  was  a  naturalist's  paradise.  One  had  only 


108  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

to  go  to  the  outskirts  of  the  town  to  find  birds  in  greatest 
abundance.  A  number  of  tall  dead  trees  had  been  left 
standing  in  the  clearing,  probably  because  it  was  easier  to 
merely  girdle  them  and  let  them  die  than  to  cut  them 
down,  and  many  blue  and  yellow  macaws  and  Amazon  par- 
rots were  nesting  in  cavities  high  up  in  the  trunks.  They 
had  young  at  the  time  of  our  visit  (March),  and  screamed 
and  fluttered  about  the  nests  all  day  long.  No  one  thought 
of  disturbing  them.  Rough-winged  swallows  and  martens 
nested  in  the  same  stubs,  and  apparently  lived  in  perfect 
harmony  with  their  noisy  neighbors. 

A  shallow,  narrow  stream  of  clear  water  flows  through 
the  clearing,  and  a  belt  of  woods  and  low  sprouts  mantles 
each  bank  with  dusky  green.  This  was  the  favorite  resort 
of  many  small  birds;  oven-birds  and  ant-wrens  ran  about 
in  the  deep  shade,  while  night-hawks,  aroused  from  their 
slumbers,  flapped  noiselessly  into  the  air  and  dropped  again 
a  few  feet  away.  Scores  of  parrakeets  chattered  in  the 
branches  overhead,  while  flocks  of  large,  spotted  wrens 
(Heleodytes)  added  to  the  chorus  with  their  incessant 
scolding. 

If  we  remained  close  to  the  stream  we  were  sure  to  sur- 
prise herons  of  several  species,  and  black  ibises  wading  in 
the  shallow  water.  A  species  of  ani  (Crotophaga)  fluttered 
in  the  overhanging  bushes;  they  were  awkward  though 
beautiful  creatures,  the  size  of  a  blue  jay,  with  brilliant, 
black  iridescent  plumage;  the  mouth  was  pure  white,  while 
the  eyes  were  of  a  pea-green  color. 

If  our  tramp  led  to  the  heavy  forest,  the  character  of  the 
birds  changed.  Giant  orioles  (Ostinops),  grackles,  and 
chachalacas  always  remained  near  the  border  of  the  taller 
growth,  and  toucans  in  flocks  seemed  to  prefer  the  protec- 
tion of  the  more  inaccessible  cover. 

The  forest  is  magnificent,  and  is  composed  largely  of 
ceibas  with  thick,  white  trunks  and  wide-spreading  tops. 
Many  tagua,  or  ivory-nut  palms,  grow  beneath  the  tall 
trees;  their  fruit  is  one  of  the  important  articles  of  export 


The  town  of  Valdivia. 


The  Cauca  River  at  Puerto  Valdivia. 


ACROSS  THE  ANTIOQUIAN  GOLD-FIELDS         109 

from  the  Magdalena  Valley  and,  during  August  and  Sep- 
tember, many  thousands  of  bags  are  shipped  down  the 
river  to  Barranquilla.  Wild  life,  however,  was  compara- 
tively scarce  in  the  forest  proper,  with  the  single  exception 
of  mosquitoes,  which  were  present  in  unlimited  swarms, 
even  in  the  daytime;  and  small  troops  of  brown  marmosets 
that  showed  themselves  at  rare  intervals. 

While  crossing  the  clearing  one  day  a  flock  of  blue  and 
yellow  macaws  passed  overhead;  we  needed  a  pair  for  the 
collection,  so  I  took  a  quick  shot  at  the  birds  as  they  flew 
by;  however,  I  succeeded  only  in  wounding  one  of  their 
number,  which  flew  to  the  ground  in  a  long  slant  and 
alighted  so  far  away  that  it  was  useless  to  try  to  follow. 
On  reaching  home  at  noon,  I  was  greatly  surprised  to  find 
the  bird  perched  on  a  ladder  in  the  very  house  we  were 
occupying.  It  had  dropped  in  the  yard,  and  having  been 
seen  by  some  children,  they  tried  to  catch  it,  whereupon 
it  took  refuge  indoors  and  kept  them  at  bay  with  its  angry 
screams  and  attempts  to  bite. 

The  evenings  at  Malena  were  fully  as  profitable  as  the 
mornings.  We  always  spent  a  pleasant  hour  or  two  at 
dusk,  walking  along  the  railroad.  Pools  of  water  had  col- 
lected in  the  hollows  where  earth  for  the  road-bed  had  been 
excavated,  and  many  water-birds  came  there  nightly  to 
fish  or  catch  frogs.  Great  blue  herons,  bitterns,  and  occa- 
sionally a  cormorant  or  anhinga  were  surprised  at  their 
nocturnal  feasts.  When  we  returned  after  dark  we  started 
numerous  goatsuckers,  which  had  settled  in  the  open  lane 
to  catch  insects  and  to  sing;  this  habit  of  resorting  to  open 
places,  especially  trails  and  roadways,  has  earned  for  them 
the  name  guardacamino  (road-guard)  among  the  natives. 

Malena  was  such  an  unusually  interesting  place  that  we 
expected  to  remain  there  several  weeks;  but,  unfortunately, 
an  epidemic  of  dysentery  had  invaded  the  Magdalena  Val- 
ley, and  the  village  was  soon  writhing  in  the  throes  of  this 
fatal  disease.  Sickness  and  death  in  the  family  of  our  hosts 
made  it  necessary  for  us  to  continue  on  our  way. 


110  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

It  requires  exactly  six  hours  to  reach  Cisneros,  the  end 
of  the  railroad,  from  Puerto  Berrio.  The  altitude  of  the 
terminus  is  three  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  as  one  approaches  it  the  heavy  forest  gradually 
disappears,  to  be  replaced  with  a  lower  growth  of  brush 
and  bushes;  finally  the  hilltops  are  barren. 

At  Cisneros  one  may  secure  riding-animals,  a  carriage,  or 
a  motor-car,  according  to  the  mode  of  travel  preferred,  for 
the  short  ride  across  the  ridge  to  Botero,  from  whence  the 
journey  may  again  be  resumed  by  train.  The  road  is 
splendid,  and  as  the  highest  point,  called  La  Quiebra,  is 
only  five  thousand  four  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  up, 
a  canter  on  a  spirited  horse  across  the  divide  is  most  enjoy- 
able. 

Botero  is  very  similar  to  Cisneros.  There  are  two  small 
hotels  where  the  traveller  may  rest  in  comfort  until  the 
train  leaves  for  Medellin,  which  is  at  4.30  P.  M. 

Numerous  villages  are  scattered  along  the  railroad,  which 
follows  closely  the  course  of  the  Medellin  River.  The 
country  is  green  and  apparently  fertile.  Thickets  of  wild 
cane  grow  near  the  stream,  and  the  talley  is  dotted  with 
clumps  of  tall,  slender  willows;  so  dense  is  the  latter  growth 
in  some  parts  of  the  region  that  it  forms  groves  and  woods. 

Two  and  a  half  hours  after  leaving  Botero  the  train 
arrived  at  Medellin.  Medellin  is  the  third  largest  city  of 
Colombia,  and  boasts  of  a  population  of  seventy  thousand. 
The  city  is  not  modern  but  very  picturesque,  and  lies  in  a 
depression  almost  completely  surrounded  by  mountains. 
We  were  fortunate  enough  to  make  the  acquaintance  of 
the  American  consul,  Mr.  H.  B.  Meyerheim,  who  rendered 
the  expedition  invaluable  service  during  our  entire  stay  in 
Antioquia. 

The  people  of  the  state  differ  from  the  Colombians  liv- 
ing in  other  parts  of  the  country  in  that  they  possess  more 
initiative  and  business  ability;  and  for  this  reason  they  are 
frequently  referred  to  as  the  Jews  of  Colombia.  Some 
authorities  go  so  far  as  to  assert  that  they  are  really  de- 


ACROSS  THE  ANTIOQUIAN  GOLD-FIELDS         111 

scendants  of  a  colony  of  Jews  that  settled  there  many 
years  ago.  For  this  belief  there  seems  to  be  very  little 
foundation.  The  fact  that  the  climate  is  bracing  and  that 
it  requires  a  greater  amount  of  work  to  gain  a  living  in  the 
semiarid  country  probably  accounts  for  the  increased  de- 
gree of  energy  displayed  by  the  inhabitants. 

Our  first  expedition  was  to  a  point  in  the  mountains 
southeast  of  the  city,  known  as  Santa  Elena,  and  only  a 
few  hours7  ride  on  mules  from  Medellin.  After  crossing  the 
ridge  we  found  ourselves  on  a  high,  wild  plateau,  which  had 
at  one  time  been  covered  with  forest;  but  the  trees  had 
been  felled  on  the  greater  part  of  the  area,  and  only  small, 
scattered  patches  of  woods  were  left  untouched.  There  are 
numerous  little  huts  in  this  upland  country,  and  at  one  of 
these  we  decided  to  remain  for  as  long  a  time  as  the  coun- 
try proved  a  profitable  collecting  ground. 

On  account  of  the  great  change  in  the  flora,  occasioned 
by  deforestation,  a  corresponding  change  had  taken  place 
in  the  bird  life.  But  little  remained  of  the  subtropical 
fauna  we  had  expected  to  find;  however,  there  were  black 
thrushes,  several  species  of  tanagers,  toucans,  trogons,  and 
motmots,  besides  many  commoner  species.  Weasels  were 
abundant  and  occasionally  blundered  into  our  traps;  these 
animals  are  very  easy  to  call  up,  and  if  one  sits  quietly  and 
imitates  the  screams  and  squeaks  of  a  wounded  bird,  it  is 
often  possible  to  attract  a  weasel  to  within  a  few  feet,  and 
at  times  it  will  run  across  one's  lap  in  search  for  the  sup- 
posed victim.  There  were  also  squirrels  of  several  species, 
and  tiger-cats. 

Many  flowering  shrubs  dotted  the  roadside,  imparting  a 
blaze  of  color  to  the  muddy  highway;  some  of  them  were 
covered  with  brilliant  scarlet  blossoms,  and  others  with 
snowy  trumpetflowers  of  great  size.  In  addition  to  this 
wealth  of  native  flowers,  the  people  cultivated  plots  of 
gladioli  and  roses,  both  of  which  attained  great  size  and 
beauty  in  spite  of  the  cold,  wet  climate. 

We  continued  on  across  the  highland  from  Santa  Elena 


112  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

to  a  place  called  Barro  Blanco,  passing  through  the  villages 
of  Rio  Negro  and  Carmen  on  the  way;  but  the  character  of 
the  country  did  not  change  appreciably !  One  of  the  prod- 
ucts of  the  high,  bleak  region  that  immediately  attracted 
our  attention  was  a  variety  of  maize;  this  thrived  even  on 
rocky  ground.  The  ears  were  large  and  well-formed,  and 
the  huge,  even  grains  were  of  a  milky-white  color  and  of 
splendid  flavor.  Large  flocks  of  pigeons  came  to  the  corn- 
fields to  feed  and  furnished  splendid  shooting;  they  fly  down 
the  mountainsides  at  terrific  speed,  and  the  rushing  noises 
made  by  the  wings  can  be  heard  at  a  great  distance.  On 
the  edges  of  the  fields  grew  small  trees  (Ficus)  bearing  quan- 
tities of  white  berries;  birds  of  many  species,  including  fly- 
catchers, came  to  feed  on  them. 

After  completing  our  work  in  the  Santa  Elena  region  we 
returned  to  Medellin.  Then  we  took  the  train  as  far  as  a 
station  called  Barbosa,  and  started  overland  for  the  Lower 
Cauca.  We  brought  both  pack  and  riding  mules  with  us 
on  the  train,  as  it  was  difficult  to  obtain  them  at  Barbosa, 
and  when  everything  had  been  unloaded  at  the  station, 
packs  were  adjusted  and  the  mules  started  up  the  exceed- 
ingly steep  ridge  to  the  north.  The  altitude  of  Barbosa  is 
four  thousand  six  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  above  sea- 
level,  but  there  was  no  break  in  the  narrow,  rocky  trail  until 
we  had  reached  the  summit,  eight  thousand  one  hundred 
feet  up.  A  few  miles  beyond  the  top  lies  the  village  of 
Don  Matias,  almost  concealed  in  a  deep  depression  and 
surrounded  by  fruit-trees.  The  trail  continues  to  wind 
across  a  rolling,  arid  country.  Boulders  of  great  size  are 
strewn  on  the  ground;  they  are  of  a  most  peculiar  forma- 
tion, consisting  of  concentric  layers  of  stone,  one  or  two 
inches  thick. 

Water  is  scarce,  and  we  passed  only  one  stream,  and  that 
of  small  size,  called  the  Rio  Force. 

Seven  leagues  is  considered  a  good  day's  travel  in  Co- 
lombia, on  account  of  the  mountainous  nature  of  the 
country  and  poor  trails.  However,  on  our  first  day  out 


ACROSS  THE  ANTIOQUIAN  GOLD-FIELDS         113 

from  Barbosa  we  covered  only  five  leagues,  and  spent  the 
night  at  a  hut  called  Sabanete,  nine  thousand  feet  up. 
Early  the  following  morning  we  reached  Santa  Rosa,  the 
centre  of  the  Antioquian  gold-fields.  The  town  is  of  con- 
siderable size,  but  stands  in  the  middle  of  a  bleak,  arid 
plain,  and  is  about  as  cheerless  a  place  as  one  could  find. 
The  surrounding  country  is  exceedingly  rich  in  gold,  and 
numberless  mines  pierce  the  flat,  stony  surface,  and  pene- 
trate into  the  hillsides.  The  only  drawback  to  mining 
operations  on  a  gigantic  scale  is  the  lack  of  water.  During 
the  rainy  season  the  inhabitants  of  Santa  Rosa  gather 
water  in  barrels  and  every  available  sort  of  container,  and 
then  wash  gold  out  in  the  street  in  front  of  their  homes,  or 
in  the  back  yards.  Despite  its  many  natural  disadvantages, 
Antioquia  is  one  of  the  richest  states  in  Colombia,  and  pro- 
duces a  great  proportion  of  that  country's  yearly  output  of 
gold,  which  in  1916  amounted  to  $5,400,000. 

The  country  beyond  Santa  Rosa  is  practically  unin- 
habited for  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles;  after  that  a 
growth  of  low  woods  gradually  appears,  and  with  it  an 
abundance  of  bird  life,  such  as  California  woodpeckers, 
green  and  yellow  jays,  black  thrushes,  warblers,  and  par- 
rots. This  was  in  great  contrast  to  the  arid  country  we 
had  just  left  behind,  where  practically  the  only  sign  of  life 
was  an  occasional  hawk  hovering  in  the  air  for  many  min- 
utes at  a  time,  in  the  hope  of  surprising  an  unsuspecting 
lizard  or  some  small  rodent  among  the  rocks  below. 

It  was  in  this  forest  that  we  again  encountered  a  number 
of  one  of  the  most  beautiful  birds  found  in  the  entire  region 
— the  white-crowned  tanager  (Serricossypha  albacristata) . 
A  flock  of  sixteen  sat  in  the  top  of  a  bush  and  kept  up  a 
continuous  shrill  peeping. 

The  third  night  after  leaving  Medellin  we  reached  Yaru- 
mal,  a  large  town  built  on  a  steep,  rocky  slope.  From  a 
distance  it  seems  as  if  the  houses  were  standing  one  on  top 
of  another,  and  it  is  difficult  to  understand  what  prevents 
the  whole  town  from  sliding  down  the  steep  mountainside. 


114  IN  THE  WILDS  OP  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  "Hotel  de  la  Madre"  is  one  of  the  institutions  of 
Yarumal.  It  is  conducted  by  an  old  negress  who  looked 
us  over  suspiciously  and  found  it  hard  to  decide  whether  or 
not  to  admit  us.  While  deliberating  and  fumbling  about 
her  shawl  she  scratched  her  finger  severely  on  a  pin;  to  this 
I  immediately  applied  a  few  grains  of  permanganate  taken 
from  my  snake-bite  lancet.  This  won  her  favor,  and  we 
were  given  a  room.  Later  she  confided  to  us  that  two 
Englishmen  had  stopped  there  the  week  before.  "We  were 
frightened  to  death  when  we  found  out  that  they  were 
Englishmen,"  she  said,  "because  England  is  at  war,  you 
know.  But  what  do  you  think  ?  They  paid  their  bill  next 
morning  and  left  without  hurting  anybody.  However,  we 
made  up  our  minds  to  be  careful  about  admitting  strangers 
in  the  future." 

One  may  ride  from  Yarumal  to  Valdivia  in  one  day;  but 
we  broke  the  trip  by  stopping  at  a  large  wayside  inn  called 
La  Frijolera.  It  was  in  the  midst  of  a  splendid  forest 
growth,  the  elevation  being  five  thousand  feet.  From  a 
distance  the  forest  looked  most  promising,  but  on  account 
of  the  density  of  mosses,  ferns,  and  creepers  forming  the 
undergrowth  it  was  all  but  impenetrable. 

We  located  a  grove  of  guavas  a  short  distance  from  the 
house,  and  this  proved  the  most  prolific  hunting-ground. 
It  was  always  possible  to  shoot  squirrels  there,  as  they 
came  out  at  all  hours  of  the  day  to  feed  on  the  ripening 
fruit.  Many  birds  also  flocked  to  the  low  trees  for  their 
daily  sustenance,  and  even  opossums  lurked  about  the 
roots  and  brush  to  pick  up  the  sweet  morsels  dropped  by 
the  furred  and  feathered  flocks  feasting  in  the  branches. 

At  La  Frijolera  we  engaged  a  native  hunter  who  owned 
a  famous  hunting-dog  named  Golondrina  (meaning  swal- 
low). Words  can  hardly  be  found  to  convey  an  accurate 
picture  of  the  hunter,  but  the  dog's  name  at  once  suggests 
its  chief  accomplishment.  Day  after  day  our  man  took 
his  dog  afield  in  search  of  agoutis,  but  he  always  returned 
empty-handed,  explaining  that  while  he  had  started  a  num- 


ACROSS  THE  ANTIOQUIAN  GOLD-FIELDS        115 

ber  of  the  animals  we  wanted,  Golondrina  could  never  see 
them,  and  so  she  failed  to  catch  them.  However,  one  day 
he  saved  his  reputation  as  a  hunter  by  making  a  difficult 
trip  of  ten  miles  to  a  steep,  heavily  wooded  ravine,  and 
shooting  a  number  of  red  howler  monkeys.  A  few  days 
later  the  dog  accidentally  came  across  a  peccary,  which 
some  native  hunters  were  pursuing,  brought  it  to  bay  on  a 
rock,  and  kept  it  there  until  it  could  be  shot. 

This  place  presented  rare  opportunities  for  hunting  by 
night.  A  road  had  been  cut  through  the  forest,  dividing  it 
in  two  clean-cut  sections.  However,  the  tips  of  wide- 
spreading  branches  from  each  side  of  the  clear  swath  met 
in  several  places,  forming  an  aerial  connection  above  the 
road.  These  are  known  as  "monkey  bridges"  because 
night  monkeys  and  other  animals  utilize  them  in  crossing 
from  one  section  of  the  forest  to  another.  As  there  was  a 
full  moon  it  was  only  necessary  to  sit  quietly  on  a  stump 
near  one  of  the  bridges  and  wait.  Before  long  a  rustling 
sound  would  come  from  the  tree-top,  so  slight  as  to  be 
scarcely  audible,  and  occasionally  a  deep,  low  grunt;  then 
silent,  shadowy  forms  emerged  from  the  blackness  of  con- 
cealing foliage  and  slowly  made  their  way  across  the  springy 
passage.  Kinkajous  also  used  these  bridges,  and  as  the  na- 
tives prized  the  skins  of  these  animals  highly  for  making 
chaparejos,  they  conducted  a  regular  business  of  hunting 
them  on  moonlight  nights.  After  shooting  in  one  spot  for 
several  nights  in  succession,  it  was  necessary  to  leave  it 
undisturbed  for  some  time,  as  the  animals  became  wary 
and  sought  other  bridges. 

The  town  of  Valdivia  is  located  on  a  little  ridge  four 
thousand  two  hundred  feet  up,  about  ten  miles  from  Puerto 
Valdivia,  which  is  on  the  Cauca  River.  All  the  intervening 
country  is  wooded. 

We  reached  the  port  on  a  Sunday  afternoon.  The  people 
from  a  distance  of  many  miles  around  flocked  to  the  spot 
on  this  day  for  the  purpose  of  having  a  "good  time,"  so 
that  there  were  upward  of  a  hundred  natives  in  and  about 


116  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

the  one  corrugated  iron  and  bamboo  building  comprising 
the  puerto,  dancing,  drinking,  fighting,  and  trading  at  the 
little  shop.  The  owner  of  the  house  received  us  courteously 
(and  where  in  all  Colombia  was  courtesy  wanting?)  and 
we  soon  made  ourselves  comfortable  in  the  large  wareroom 
which  formed  one  end  of  the  structure.  There  was  no 
thought  of  work  that  day,  for  everybody  crowded  about 
to  have  a  good  look  at  and  welcome  the  gringos,  but  we 
made  the  best  of  the  occasion  and  secured  a  good  deal  of 
information  concerning  the  surrounding  country. 

The  Cauca,  a  swift,  muddy  stream  four  or  five  hundred 
feet  wide  at  this  point,  is  hemmed  in  on  both  sides  by  the 
steep  slopes  of  the  Western  and  Central  Andean  Ranges, 
the  forest  extending  down  to  the  water.  It  is  navigable 
from  here  on  down  to  a  small  settlement  called  Caceres, 
but  rafts  and  canoes  only  are  employed  in  making  this 
journey,  which  requires  half  a  day  going  down  and  two 
days  coming  up.  The  natives  are  a  careless  lot  while  on 
the  water,  and  numbers  of  lives  are  lost  annually.  About 
the  first  thing  we  saw  was  the  body  of  a  man  floating  down 
the  river,  with  a  vulture  perched  on  it.  We  asked  Don 
Jose,  owner  of  the  place,  why  he  did  not  send  some  of  his 
peons  in  a  canoe  to  recover  it.  He  replied  that  if  he  did  he 
would  be  required  to  care  for  the  body  until  a  government 
official  from  Yarumal  came  to  view  it,  and  then  he  and 
every  one  present  would  have  to  go  back  with  the  coroner 
to  give  their  testimony  as  to  the  finding  of  the  cadaver. 
This  entailed  so  much  trouble  that  it  was  customary  not 
to  pay  any  attention  to  such  occurrences. 

In  few  places  have  I  seen  such  an  abundance  of  interest- 
ing fauna  as  at  Puerto  Valdivia.  The  forest  was  teeming 
with  birds;  mammals  were  plentiful;  shoals  of  fish  and  even 
caimans  swarmed  in  the  river;  there  were  also  insects  enough 
to  cheer  the  heart  of  an  entomologist. 

In  such  a  region  the  naturalist  has  no  idle  moments. 
When  we  tired  of  working  with  birds  and  mammals,  which 
were  of  chief  interest  to  us,  we  had  only  to  step  to  the 


ACROSS  THE  ANTIOQUIAN  GOLD-FIELDS         117 

river-bank,  where  vast  swarms  of  brilliantly  colored  butter- 
flies settled  in  thick  masses  in  the  mud  or  rocks  to  drink. 
A  single  sweep  of  the  net  often  ensnared  several  score  of 
the  insects.  A  species  of  Urania  of  a  black  and  green  color 
predominated,  but  a  Diana,  deep  red  above  and  spotted 
with  silver  dots  on  the  under-side  was  not  uncommon. 

Fish  could  always  be  secured  in  abundance.  If  we  at- 
tempted to  catch  them  with  hooks  we  usually  landed  cat- 
fish or  small  eels.  It  is  unlawful  to  use  dynamite  in  Co- 
lombia, but  Don  Jose  had  a  goodly  supply  stored  away 
and  did  not  hesitate  to  use  it  when  occasion  required.  The 
peons  detailed  for  that  purpose  selected  a  spot  in  the  river 
where  logs  and  brush  had  grounded  to  form  a  drift,  or 
where  the  water  eddied  against  a  sharp  bend;  they  tied  a 
rock  to  the  explosive,  lit  the  fuse  and  threw  it  into  the 
water.  After  a  few  moments,  during  which  the  water  hissed 
and  bubbled  as  the  gases  from  the  burning  fuse  rose  and 
escaped,  a  dull  thud  followed  and,  almost  immediately,  the 
surface  was  littered  with  numbers  of  dead  and  stunned  fish. 
They  were  invariably  a  species  of  "Pacu"  (Prochilodus  nigri- 
cans),  weighing  from  one  to  four  or  five  pounds,  and  proved 
to  be  excellent  eating. 

Not  far  from  the  port  is  an  old  cacao-plantation  which 
has  apparently  been  deserted  for  a  number  of  years.  The 
trees  are  tall  and  covered  with  moss,  while  the  sheltering 
cochimbas  or  madre  de  cacaos  form  a  high  canopy  of  inter- 
locking branches.  To  this  cool  retreat  almost  every  species 
of  bird  common  in  the  region  came  to  feed  or  to  pass  the 
noonday  hours.  There  were  buccos  and  wood-hewers  in 
abundance — the  former  dull,  stupid  birds,  which  sat  quietly 
on  the  lower  twigs  in  the  hope  that  some  insect  would  wing 
its  way  not  too  far  from  their  ever-hungry  mouths;  the 
latter,  agile  and  alert  as  they  scampered  up  the  moss-cov- 
ered trunks,  eagerly  examining  each  crevice  for  a  hidden 
grub  or  an  ant.  Gorgeous  trogons  with  resplendent  green 
backs  and  blood-red  breasts  flitted  among  the  lower 
branches,  and  little  parrots  of  bright  green  with  gold- 


118  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

colored  heads  screamed  and  fluttered  in  the  leafy  branches 
high  overhead.  Where  ferns  and  brush  grew  thickest,  near 
the  numerous  ravines,  flocks  of  yellow  manakins  (Manacus) 
sputtered  and  whirred  in  the  semidarkness;  they  proved  to 
be  an  undescribed  form. 

Mammals,  too,  were  not  lacking.  Of  chief  interest  were 
giant  black  weasels  with  white  throat  patches  (Tayrd). 
These  are  truly  dreadful  creatures — at  least  to  the  animals 
on  which  they  feed.  They  are  of  powerful  build,  the  neck 
muscles  being  particularly  well-developed,  and  I  can  pic- 
ture them  as  a  dangerous  antagonist  even  to  a  deer  or  a 
peccary. 

The  smallest  of  ant-eaters  (Cycloterus  didactylus)  was 
also  found  in  this  region.  This  little  animal,  while  not  rare, 
perhaps,  is  seldom  seen  on  account  of  its  diminutive  size 
and  arboreal  habits.  It  is  of  a  beautiful  golden  color,  and 
the  fur  is  so  fine  and  silky  that  could  it  be  obtained  in 
quantities  sufficient  for  commercial  purposes  it  would  per- 
haps rival  in  value  the  highest  priced  fur  in  use  to-day. 
The  creature  lives  in  the  tree-tops  and  is  diurnal  in  habits. 
It  moves  along  the  branches  with  great  rapidity,  either  in 
an  upright  position  or  inverted  like  a  sloth,  the  prehensile 
tail  being  used  constantly.  Ants  form  the  food,  and  as 
these  ascend  even  the  highest  trees,  the  little  ant-eater  has 
a  never-failing  and  abundant  supply;  they  are  gathered  up 
hurriedly  as  the  little  creature  moves  quickly  along. 

One  day  an  army  of  carnivorous  ants  invaded  our  quar- 
ters while  we  were  busily  occupied  preparing  the  specimens 
collected  during  the  morning.  The  first  intimation  we  had 
of  the  arrival  of  the  ravaging  host  was  when  scores  of  cock- 
roaches suddenly  appeared  and  frantically  ran  up  the  walls 
of  the  room.  Not  long  after,  several  centipedes  eight  inches 
long  joined  the  fleeing  cockroaches,  and  before  long  a  num- 
ber of  scorpions  followed  in  their  wake,  hotly  pursued  by 
the  multitude  of  ants.  There  was  nothing  for  us  to  do  but 
follow  the  lead  of  the  panic-stricken  insects,  so  we  hurriedly 
transferred  our  collections  to  a  zone  of  safety  outdoors, 


ACROSS  THE  ANTIOQUIAN  GOLD-FIELDS         119 

and  waited  a  few  hours  until  the  ant  army  had  completed 
its  work  and  gone  on  its  way.  The  natives  welcome  these 
visits  as  the  ants  act  as  scavengers  and  rid  the  house  of 
vermin. 

While  at  Puerto  Valdivia  we  were  presented  with  a  young 
night  monkey  not  larger  than  a  good-sized  mouse.  It  was 
a  most  interesting  pet,  and  readily  took  to  a  diet  of  con- 
densed milk,  which  it  drank  from  a  spoon.  My  companion, 
to  whom  the  little  animal  belonged,  kept  it  on  the  window- 
sill,  from  which  point  of  vantage  it  took  a  lively  interest  in 
all  that  occurred  within  its  range  of  vision.  It  so  happened 
that  there  was  a  very  small  crack  in  the  sill,  and  this  proved 
to  be  a  matter  of  the  utmost  concern  to  the  tiny  monkey. 
Hundreds  of  times  each  day  it  crept  timidly  to  the  crack 
and  peered  down  into  it  anxiously,  although  there  was  only 
darkness  below.  When  we  held  the  pelt  of  an  animal  near 
it  paid  no  attention  whatever  to  it,  with  the  single  excep- 
tion of  the  skin  of  one  of  its  species,  which  it  recognized 
immediately,  and  to  which  it  clung  tenaciously.  When  we 
left  the  hot  climate  of  the  Lower  Cauca  and  started  on  the 
return  journey  to  Medellin  the  little  creature  was  unable 
to  withstand  the  cold  of  the  higher  altitude  and  died. 

The  purpose  of  our  zoological  exploration  of  this  section 
of  Antioquia  was  to  secure  material  that  would  throw  light 
on  the  geography  of  the  country  farther  north;  for,  beyond 
the  general  knowledge  that  the  junction  of  the  Cauca  and 
the  Magdalena  mark  the  breaking  down  of  the  Cordillera 
Central,  we  knew  comparatively  little  of  a  definite  charac- 
ter about  this  part  of  Colombia.  It  was  not  until  several 
months  later  that  our  work  farther  west — on  the  Paramillo 
and  the  Rio  Sucio — provided  the  material  which,  viewed 
from  a  distributional  standpoint,  furnished  the  clews  that 
aided  very  materially  in  solving  our  problem. 


CHAPTER  IX 

ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO— COLLECTING  ON  THE 
RIO  SUCIO 

THE  return  to  Medellin  from  Puerto  Valdivia  occupied 
five  days.  We  again  went  to  our  former  headquarters,  the 
"  Gran  Hotel,"  and  spent  a  few  busy  days  packing  the  large 
collections  brought  from  the  Lower  Cauca.  Then  we  began 
to  gather  provisions  and  cargo  mules  for  a  second  expedition. 

Upon  leaving  Medellin  we  started  northwestward,  hav- 
ing in  view  an  ascent  of  the  Paramillo,  a  lofty  spur  of  the 
Andes,  jutting  out  of  the  Western  Range  slightly  below 
latitude  7°  south.  This  region,  so  far  as  I  am  able  to  dis- 
cover, had  never  been  explored. 

At  first  the  trail  is  wide  and  very  good,  so  that  within 
four  hours  after  starting  we  reached  the  summit  of  the 
first  ridge,  eight  thousand  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  up. 
A  great  cleft  in  the  bare,  rocky  peaks  forms  a  natural  pass 
and  saves  a  climb  of  at  least  an  additional  thousand  feet. 
The  slope  on  the  other  (western)  side  is  more  gentle. 

We  were  immediately  impressed  with  the  barren  nature 
of  the  country,  for,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  patches  of 
low  brush,  and  clumps  of  withered  grass,  there  was  no 
vegetation.  An  occasional  glimpse  of  the  Cauca  River, 
far  below,  presented  the  picture  of  a  broad  yellow  ribbon 
lying  upon  a  brown,  rocky  plain. 

That  night  we  reached  San  Geronimo,  a  small  town  well 
down  in  the  valley.  Limited  plots  of  ground  are  irrigated 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  settlement,  where  rice,  corn,  and  pas- 
turage are  cultivated  by  the  inhabitants.  Yellow-rumped 
tanagers,  anis,  and  finches  (Sycalis)  make  this  little  oasis 
their  home,  and  add  greatly  to  its  attractiveness. 

Next  morning  we  were  in  the  saddle  before  six  o'clock. 

120 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  121 

A  few  hours  later,  after  crossing  a  low  ridge,  we  came  sud- 
denly upon  Sopetran,  a  beautiful  little  town  completely 
hidden  in  groves  of  palms,  mangoes,  and  other  lovely  trees. 
The  cluster  of  some  hundreds  of  snow-white  houses  with 
red  roofs,  wide,  well-kept  streets,  and  the  abundance  of 
multicolored  birds  fluttering  and  singing  among  the  deep 
green  foliage,  render  Sopetran  one  of  the  most  attractive 
towns  of  its  size  I  have  seen  in  tropical  America. 

At  noon  we  reached  the  Cauca  and  crossed  that  sluggish, 
muddy  stream  on  a  suspension  bridge  about  eight  hundred 
feet  long.  The  cables  are  anchored  in  picturesque  brick 
piers  built  into  the  face  of  the  steep  banks,  and  hundreds  of 
swallows  utilize  as  nesting  sites  the  small  openings  where 
the  wires  enter  the  masonry.  Gravel  flats  flank  the  sides 
of  the  river,  and  bare,  sandy  islands  divide  the  water  into 
several  channels.  The  elevation  is  approximately  two 
thousand  feet. 

One  league  beyond  the  Cauca  lies  the  town  of  Antioquia. 
If  Sopetran  is  the  last  word  in  attractiveness,  Antioquia 
must  be  placed  at  the  extreme  other  end  of  the  scale.  The 
wide,  arid  valley  supports  no  vegetation  except  occasional 
clumps  of  cacti  and  dwarfed  mimosas,  which  rather  add  to 
its  desert-like  appearance.  The  heat  is  almost  unbearable, 
as  the  Western  and  Central  Andes,  hemming  in  the  valley 
between  huge  walls  of  pink  clay  and  sandstone,  shut  off 
all  ventilating  winds. 

Although  it  was  still  early  in  the  afternoon,  we  decided 
to  spend  the  rest  of  the  day  in  Antioquia,  as  the  pack-mules 
seemed  nearly  exhausted;  but  it  was  not  long  before  we 
heartily  regretted  not  having  avoided  the  town  and  made 
camp  out  in  the  open  plains.  Our  arriero  had  guided  us  to 
the  little  hotel,  where  a  matronly  senora  received  us  with 
evident  joy  and  a  great  deal  of  ceremony,  probably  because 
we  were  the  first  guests  in  some  time;  we  soon  discovered, 
however,  that  she  was  not  the  only  one  to  whom  our  visit 
gave  pleasure.  Fleas  in  droves  appeared  from  the  cracks 
in  the  brick  flooring  and  made  their  way  through  leggings, 


122  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

trousers,  and  all  other  wearing  apparel  as  quickly  and  easily 
as  the  proverbial  rat  running  through  a  cheese;  and  when 
we  entered  our  room,  vermin  of  a  still  more  objectionable 
character  rushed  joyfully  from  the  beds,  walls,  and  chairs 
to  gloat  in  hungry  anticipation  at  their  prospective  victims. 
We  erected  our  cots  in  the  patio  and  spent  a  long,  long  night 
out  in  the  open. 

Buriticd  was  reached  on  the  following  day.  Immediately 
after  leaving  Antioquia,  a  mere  ledge  of  a  trail  begins  the 
ascent  of  the  Coast  Range,  and  while  a  good  deal  of  anxiety 
was  felt  for  the  safety  of  the  pack-animals,  it  was  never- 
theless a  relief  to  escape  from  the  cheerless  desert  wastes 
and  the  intolerable  heat  of  the  low  country.  The  altitude 
of  Buritica"  is  six  thousand  two  hundred  feet.  On  account 
of  the  jaded  condition  of  the  mules,  we  spent  a  half-day  in 
the  town,  and  also  lightened  the  cargoes  by  leaving  at  the 
inn  all  equipment  intended  for  a  subsequent  journey  in 
another  direction.  We  had,  of  course,  never  visited  Bu- 
ritica"  before,  but  I  had  not  the  slightest  hesitation  in  leav- 
ing with  perfect  strangers  a  good  deal  of  valuable  material. 
The  honesty  of  the  Colombians  is  well  known,  and  we  did 
not  lose  a  single  thing  by  theft  during  the  entire  two  years 
I  spent  in  that  country. 

At  Tabacal,  a  half  day's  ride  from  Buriticd,  we  lost  sight 
of  the  Cauca  River.  Our  view  was  shut  off  by  an  indepen- 
dent ridge  of  mountains  several  thousand  feet  high,  which 
rises  out  of  the  valley  between  the  range  we  were  on  and 
the  stream.  A  slight  change  was  also  perceptible  in  the 
character  of  the  country;  extensive  areas  covered  with 
brush  now  dotted  the  slopes,  although  at  infrequent  inter- 
vals; and  on  the  extreme  tops  of  both  ranges  a  thin  fringe  of 
green  was  plainly  discernible.  The  country  is  also  very 
rough  and  broken,  and  there  are  a  number  of  ridges  to  be 
crossed,  many  of  which  are  two  thousand  feet  high.  Sev- 
eral separate  mountains,  not  connected  with  the  main 
ranges,  stand  here  and  there  like  giant,  man-hewn  mono- 
liths, rising  from  a  basal  elevation  of  three  thousand  to 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  123 

eight  or  nine  thousand  feet,  which  magnifies  their  tre- 
mendous proportions. 

On  the  fifth  day  we  reached  an  altitude  of  eight  thousand 
feet,  and  entered  a  fine  strip  of  forest,  the  first  we  had  seen 
on  this  journey.  This  is  the  beginning  of  the  forested  zone, 
and  close  scrutiny  revealed  the  fact  that  it  begins  at  pre- 
cisely the  same  height  on  both  the  Central  and  Coast 
Ranges,  and  continues  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountains, 
several  thousands  of  feet  higher  up.  We  travelled  along 
the  top  of  the  ridge  for  some  miles,  and  then  again  de- 
scended abruptly  to  the  barren  valley  where  the  little  vil- 
lage of  Peque  is  situated,  and  where  our  journey  by  mules 
ended. 

Peque  contains  about  fifty  dilapidated  mud  huts,  and 
its  population  is  mostly  of  Indian  descent,  but  includes 
some  pure-blooded  Indians.  We  had  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  one  of  the  latter,  Julian  David,  who  is  the  chief 
man  in  the  town,  and  he  rendered  us  every  assistance.  He 
called  together  a  number  of  sturdy  young  half-breeds  and 
requested  them  to  join  the  expedition;  in  other  words,  told 
them  to  carry  our  packs  to  the  top  of  the  Paramillo.  The 
men  eagerly  agreed  to  do  this,  for  they  had  never  before 
been  in  the  service  of  strangers,  and  the  trip  to  the  high 
country  and  also  the  society  of  gringos  promised  interest- 
ing possibilities.  We  spent  a  few  days  investigating  the 
neighboring  country,  while  the  men  had  their  wives  pre- 
pare the  provisions  for  their  use  during  the  trip. 

Some  of  the  country  surrounding  Peque  once  doubtless 
bore  a  light  forest  growth,  with  heavier  forest  in  the  ravines; 
but  by  far  the  greater  part  is  naturally  barren  or  covered 
with  brush  thickets.  I  was  told  that  at  the  time  of  the 
Spanish  invasion  forty  thousand  Indians  inhabited  the 
region,  and  as  the  several  mountain  streams  supply  an 
abundance  of  water,  and  the  soil  responds  fairly  well  to 
cultivation,  there  seems  to  be  no  reason  why  it  should  not 
have  supported  an  extensive  population;  at  the  present 
time  only  a  few  hundred  people  are  left,  the  others  having 


124  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

gone  to  swell  the  ranks  of  victims  exacted  by  the  lust  of  the 
conquerors. 

The  forested  zone,  beginning  at  eight  thousand  feet  on 
the  ridge  we  had  just  traversed,  gradually  extends  its  limits 
downward  as  one  goes  farther  north,  until  at  Peque  it 
reached  as  low  as  five  thousand  feet  in  the  deeper  and  well- 
watered  ravines;  and,  as  previously  stated,  at  Puerto  Val- 
divia  it  reaches  the  very  edge  of  the  Cauca. 

One  day  an  inhabitant  of  Tabacal  rushed  into  our  room 
and  begged  me  to  show  him  the  wonderful  diamond  ring 
he  said  I  wore  while  in  his  village;  he  had  been  away  at 
the  time,  so  had  not  seen  it,  but  tales  had  reached  his  ears 
upon  his  return  of  the  marvellous  brilliancy  of  the  stone 
which  lighted  up  the  whole  street  as  we  walked  along.  At 
first  I  wondered  from*  what  sort  of  an  hallucination  the 
man  was  suffering,  for  neither  my  companion  nor  myself 
carried  any  diamonds  with  us;  finally  I  remembered  that, 
in  trying  to  find  our  way  through  the  street  at  Tabacal, 
we  had  used  a  small  electric  flash-light  to  avoid  falling 
over  the  pigs  or  into  the  mud-wallows;  whereupon  I 
demonstrated  its  mysterious  powers  to  him,  and  he  started 
back  on  his  two  days7  walk  a  better-informed  but  never- 
theless a  most-disappointed  man. 

A  stream  of  clear,  cold  water  flows  around  one  side  of 
the  hill  upon  which  Peque  stands,  and  to  this  we  went 
nightly  for  a  swim.  Don  Julian  could  not  quite  believe 
us  when  we  told  him  of  the  purpose  of  our  nocturnal  prowls; 
so  one  night  he  accompanied  us  to  the  stream  and,  wonder 
of  wonders,  we  actually  did  go  into  the  water.  I  invited 
him  to  join  us,  but  he  said:  "No,  such  a  thing  is  unheard 
of;  and,  besides,  an  Indian  is  just  like  a  cat;  when  either 
one  gets  wet  it  dies!" 

When  the  half-breed  porters  who  were  to  carry  the  equip- 
ment finally  had  their  charque  and  jarepas  all  ready,  they 
shouldered  their  packs  and  started  for  the  mountains.  As 
there  was  no  trail,  an  additional  man  was  engaged  to  go 
in  advance  and  clear  an  opening  with  his  machete. 


•••    £-          *--#• 

V' fjfr."  •••  •"•'•-  '  .-  .      '1 
The  porters  en  route  to  the  Paramillo. 


Cufia  Indians  at  Dabeiba. 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  125 

A  three  hours'  walk  brought  us  to  a  point  called  El 
Madero,  because  a  few  trees  had  once  been  cut  down  there 
for  their  lumber,  but  the  clearing  was  overgrown  with  black- 
berry-briars, brush,  and  guavas.  Then  we  plunged  into  the 
unexplored  forest. 

It  was  our  plan  to  follow  along  the  top  of  an  undulating 
ridge  which  one  of  the  men  said  was  the  shortest  and  easiest 
route  to  the  Paramillo.  He  knew  from  experience,  having 
once  visited  the  region  some  sixteen  years  before.  It  was 
during  the  course  of  a  revolution;  his  father  was  pursued 
by  the  opposing  forces  and  fled  into  the  forest,  taking  his 
son,  who  was  then  a  small  boy,  with  him,  and  eventually 
reaching  the  Paramillo,  they  spent  some  time  there  in  con- 
cealment. 

At  first  the  forest  was  fairly  penetrable,  but  soon  the 
moss-draped,  liana-garlanded  walls  closed  about  us  in  a 
compact  mass;  ferns,  palms,  and  arums  sprang  up  from 
the  ground  in  a  matted  jungle  to  join  the  heavily  laden 
branches  above.  Then  our  trail-cutter  was  pressed  into 
service,  and  plied  his  machete  with  deadly  effect  on  the 
vegetation,  with  the  result  that  a  narrow  tunnel  was  opened, 
through  which  we  walked  or  crawled  as  occasion  might 
demand. 

On  account  of  the  long  climb,  having  ascended  five  thou- 
sand feet  during  an  eight  hours'  march,  we  made  camp  at 
three  o'clock  at  an  elevation  of  ten  thousand  feet.  This 
gave  us  an  opportunity  of  observing  a  few  of  the  birds  living 
in  this  untouched  wilderness.  There  were  wood-hewers 
and  yellow-headed  tanagers;  parrots  and  blue-throated 
jays.  A  large  harpy-eagle  sat  majestically  on  a  low  branch, 
surrounded  by  a  flock  of  California  woodpeckers,  which 
screamed  and  scolded  and  darted  at  his  head;  but  he  sat 
perfectly  motionless,  utterly  disdainful  of  such  ignominious 
prey. 

There  was  no  water  on  the  ridge,  but  a  supply  was  secured 
from  a  ravine  a  thousand  feet  lower  down;  it  was  the  last 
we  had  until  we  reached  the  Paramillo  two  days  later. 


126  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  second  day's  march  we  hoped  would  be  over  a  gentler 
slope,  but  it  was  soon  discovered  that  our  ridge  consisted 
of  a  number  of  knolls  rising  from  five  hundred  to  a  thousand 
feet  above  the  mean  level,  and  the  forest  grew  denser  con- 
stantly. Every  foot  of  the  way  had  to  be  cleared.  In  places 
we  actually  walked  over  the  top  of  the  vegetation;  the 
branches  were  covered  with  a  solid  tangle  of  creepers,  climb- 
ing bamboo,  bromelias,  and  moss,  and  formed  springy  aerial 
bridges.  More  frequently  it  was  easier  to  burrow  under- 
neath, so  tunnels  many  yards  long  were  cut,  through  which 
the  porters  crawled  on  hands  and  knees.  The  tops  of  some 
of  the  eminences  were  void  of  trees,  their  place  being  taken 
by  jungles  of  bamboo,  wild  oleanders,  shrubs,  and  clumps 
of  tall,  coarse  grass  with  blades  eight  feet  high  and  six  inches 
wide,  the  edges  of  which  cut  like  knives.  That  night  we 
camped  at  eleven  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  up. 
The  men  eagerly  cut  down  clumps  of  bromelias,  hoping  to 
obtain  water  from  the  bases  of  the  leaves,  but  all  they  found 
were  a  few  drops  of  vile,  black  liquid  filled  with  drowned 
insects.  Although  we  had  travelled  steadily  for  ten  hours, 
I  doubt  if  we  had  covered  more  than  three  miles. 

A  few  hours  after  starting,  on  the  morning  of  the  third  day, 
we  emerged  suddenly  from  the  gloom  of  the  forest.  In- 
stead of  the  tall,  overburdened  trees,  there  were  extensive 
areas  covered  with  brush,  evergreens,  stunted  pines,  and 
ferns.  Beyond  stretched  the  bleak,  wind-swept  slope  of 
the  Paramillo.  At  sight  of  this,  the  porters  struggled  on 
frantically,  for  the  attaining  of  the  goal  meant  a  release 
from  their  heavy  burdens — and  water.  That  afternoon 
the  last  knoll  had  been  crossed  and  the  packs  deposited  on 
a  rocky  flat  which  was  to  serve  as  a  camping-site.  Each 
man  started  in  a  difference  direction  in  search  of  a  brook, 
and  by  dusk  a  pot-hole  at  the  bottom  of  a  ravine,  and  only  a 
few  hundred  yards  from  camp,  had  been  found  containing 
several  hundred  gallons  of  pure,  icy  water.  Never  was  a 
discovery  more  earnestly  welcomed,  and  the  men  sprawled 
around  the  edges  of  the  pool  and  drank  their  fill;  then  it 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  127 

was  arranged  that  they  should  stay  with  us  for  the  night, 
start  back  to  Peque  the  next  morning,  and  return  for  us 
after  ten  days.  Our  cook  was  of  course  to  remain  with  us. 

The  Paramillo  region  is  composed  of  a  series  of  sharply 
inclined  peaks,  the  highest  of  which  has  an  elevation  of 
thirteen  thousand  feet,  and  is  interspersed  with  ravines 
and  deep  fissures.  The  surface  consists  mainly  of  dark 
sandstone,  so  shattered  over  vast  areas  that  a  thin  litter  of 
particles  covers  the  fundamental  rock.  Occasionally  a 
thin  vein'of  white  quartz  crops  out  to  the  surface,  especially 
where,  as  often  occurs,  the  strata  stand  in  a  perpendicular 
position. 

At  night  the  temperature  dropped  to  28°  F.,  and  ice  half 
an  inch  thick  formed  on  the  reservoir;  in  the  morning  the 
ground  was  white  with  frost.  The  sparse  vegetation  on 
the  slope  consists  of  frailejones,  blueberry-bushes  and  tall, 
tough  grass;  stunted  trees  and  bushes,  all  covered  with 
moss,  grow  in  the  deeper  ravines.  Hunting  in  these  latter 
places  was  a  never-ending  source  of  delight;  there  was  no 
water  so  it  was  possible  to  walk  unrestrictedly  underneath 
the  green  vault  of  brush  which  fringed  the  sides  and  met 
overhead.  Many  little  mammals'  trails  zigzagged  over  the 
moss-covered  rocks,  and  burrows  opened  into  the  steep 
banks;  if  we  stole  noiselessly  along,  or  better  still,  sat  quietly 
for  a  few  minutes,  the  inquiring  eyes  of  a  paca,  a  large, 
spotted,  tailless  rodent,  were  sure  to  peer  timidly  out  of 
some  dark  opening,  to  be  followed  later  by  the  animal's 
entire  body  as  it  moved  out  stealthily  to  nibble  on  the  tender 
sprouts.  Numbers  of  woolly,  yellow  rats  (Melanomys) 
also  appeared  to  stare  with  beady,  black  eyes,  and  to 
nervously  twitch  their  noses;  sometimes  they  came  out 
boldly  to  chase  one  another  over  well-defined  runways  and 
through  mossy  tunnels;  but  more  often,  they  were  con- 
tent merely  to  gaze  from  the  entrance  of  some  safe  retreat 
into  which  they  vanished  at  the  first  suspicious  move  on 
our  part.  Deer,  too,  were  seen  occasionally,  but  they  were 
not  numerous;  they  grazed  on  the  slopes  in  broad  daylight, 


128  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

and  had  snug  lairs  in  dense  clumps  of  bushes  which  always 
commanded  a  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  We  saw 
no  cougars  or  bears  although  we  found  the  remains  of  several 
deer  which  had  apparently  been  killed  by  these  animals. 

Birds  were  extremely  scarce  and,  strange  to  relate,  ex- 
ceedingly wary.  Collecting  them  was  heart-breaking  work; 
the  slopes  are  so  steep,  that  it  was  impossible  to  walk  many 
yards  without  becoming  utterly  exhausted,  and  tramping 
through  the  high,  wet  grass  chilled  the  lower  extremities 
to  numbness.  The  slaty  finch  (Phrygilus)  so  common  at 
Santa  Isabel,  and  two  species  of  honey-creepers  (Diglossd) 
were  by  far  the  most  common;  followed  by  a  queer,  wren- 
like  little  bird  (Scytalopus)  called  tapacola,  which  lives 
among  the  densest  ferns  and  mosses;  it  was  seldom  seen, 
but  a  cheery  whistle  apprised  us  constantly  of  its  presence. 
There  was  also  a  gorgeous  humming-bird,  the  whole  body 
being  of  the  most  resplendent,  iridescent  deep  rose  and 
green  colors;  we  located  a  nest  of  this  species,  a  tiny  moss 
cup  scarcely  an  inch  across,  suspended  from  a  creeper  dan- 
gling beneath  a  bower  of  protecting  leaves;  it  held  two 
minute  eggs,  so  fragile  that  the  mere  touch  of  a  finger  would 
crush  them. 

One  day  we  ascended  the  highest  peak  in  order  to  ob- 
tain a  good  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  Para- 
millo  rises  like  a  rocky  island,  out  of  an  ocean  of  forest. 
Clouds  fill  the  depressions  between  the  neighboring  peaks, 
and  surging,  tumbling  banks  of  white  roll  up  the  slopes 
or  ascend  in  columns  to  spread  out  in  funnel-shaped  masses 
in  the  higher  altitudes  and  become  dissipated  by  the  sun. 
To  the  southward  rises  the  lofty  Paramo  of  Frontino,  many 
miles  distant,  the  flat  top  dimly  outlined  in  a  grayish  haze. 

Toward  the  close  of  the  tenth  day,  we  heard  loud  calls 
and,  soon  after,  our  faithful  porters  dashed  into  camp.  We 
were  astonished  at  their  number  for,  according  to  our  agree- 
ment, only  the  original  number  was  to  return,  there  being 
no  need  for  the  trail-cutters;  however,  several  additional 
men  had  arrived.  Upon  reaching  the  Paramillo,  we  had 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  129 

jestingly  remarked  that  we  should  ascend  the  highest  peak 
because  we  could  perhaps  see  New  York  from  the  top;  the 
extra  men  heard  of  this,  and  seriously  explained  that  they 
had  come  to  make  the  ascent  in  order  to  get  a  view 
of  "Rome  where  the  Holy  Father  lives !" 

Early  the  next  morning,  we  broke  camp  and  started  back. 
The  homeward  trip  was  much  easier,  for  the  packs  were 
lighter,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  was  down- 
hill. After  two  days  we  emerged  from  the  lower  edge  of 
the  forest,  and  there  was  Don  Julian  and  a  delegation  of 
natives  waiting  to  convoy  us  back  to  Peque  and  welcome 
us  home. 

Don  Julian  provided  horses  for  our  return  to  Buritica". 
They  were  unquestionably  the  poorest  animals  I  had  ever 
seen,  and  I  disliked  greatly  to  use  them;  but  as  no  others 
were  to  be  had  it  was  a  case  of  either  taking  the  ones  avail- 
able or  remaining  in  Peque  for  an  indefinite  period.  How- 
ever, they  arrived  safely  in  Buritica*  after  two  days'  time, 
and  having  secured  a  new  pack-train  we  started  northwest- 
ward toward  Atrato  drainage. 

Leaving  the  little  town  and  the  semiarid  country  sur- 
rounding it,  we  proceeded  straight  to  the  top  of  a  ridge 
eight  thousand  feet  high,  where  a  narrow  strip  of  forest 
grew;  and  then  descended  on  the  other  side  into  the  valley 
of  the  Rio  Canasgordas.  At  this  point  the  stream  is  a 
mere  rivulet,  but  it  widens  rapidly  and  the  fertile  banks 
are  planted  in  sugar-cane,  maize,  and  bananas.  Huts 
built  of  mud  and  grass,  half  concealed  by  orange-trees  dot 
the  narrow  valley;  near  them  half -naked,  dark-skinned 
children,  pigs,  and  chickens  ran  about  in  a  care-free  man- 
ner or  stared  at  us  as  we  passed. 

Lower  down  the  river  is  flanked  by  wide  belts  of  tall 
bamboo.  Birds  were  not  particularly  abundant,  but  occa- 
sionally we  caught  sight  of  a  yellow-rumped  tanager  as  the 
bird  darted  through  the  foliage;  or  heard  the  familiar  kis- 
ka-dee  of  a  tyrant-bird  perched  on  some  high  branch  to 
sing,  and  to  wait  for  insect  victims  to  come  within  range  of 


130  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

its  snapping,  insatiable  beak.  We  spent  the  first  night  in 
the  town  of  Canasgordas,  and  the  second  in  a  dilapidated 
house  known  as  Orobajo.  The  family  living  here  was  in 
great  distress  owing  to  an  epidemic  of  some  kind  of  virulent 
fever  which  had  appeared  in  the  district.  There  was  no 
food  in  the  house,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  beans,  but 
after  scouring  the  neighborhood  our  cook  succeeded  in 
purchasing  a  hen  and  a  dozen  jarepas  which  we  divided 
with  the  infirm  family. 

While  waiting  for  supper  we  went  on  a  tour  of  inspection 
over  the  premises  and  located  a  house-wren's  nest  in  the 
roof.  It  contained  one  young  bird,  and  the  people  told  us 
that  the  other  had  been  killed  by  falling  to  the  ground. 
Later  we  found  several  other  nests  of  this  species,  but  in 
no  instance  were  there  more  than  two  eggs  or  birds  in  one 
nest.  This  fact  is  most  interesting;  in  a  temperate  climate 
the  house-wrens  rear  a  large  brood — eight  being  not  an 
uncommon  number  of  young;  but  near  the  equator  two 
seemed  to  be  the  usual  amount. 

Below  Orobajo  the  river  is  known  as  the  Heradura.  It 
flows  past  the  village  of  Uramita,  which  was  all  but  de- 
serted. The  fever  that  had  invaded  Orobajo  had  also 
visited  this  place  anS  more  than  half  the  inhabitants  had 
died.  A  few  men  were  engaged  in  pumping  salt  water 
from  shallow  wells  which  was  led  in  bamboo  pipes  to  a 
battery  of  low  pans  where  boiling  evaporated  the  water 
and  left  the  salt.  So  far  as  we  could  see  there  was  no  other 
industry  in  the  town. 

Dabeiba,  our  first  objective,  was  reached  the  third  day 
after  leaving  Buritica".  As  we  gained  the  summit  of  the 
last  ridge,  a  wonderful  view  lay  before  our  eyes.  The  little 
town,  composed  of  whitewashed  houses  with  red-tile  roofs, 
glistened  in  a  flat  valley  carpeted  with  the  softest  green. 
On  one  side  a  river,  called  the  Rio  Sucio,  raged  and  fumed 
over  a  rock-encumbered  bed;  fields  of  cotton  dotted  its 
banks,  the  snowy  bolls  and  yellow  blossoms  almost  obliter- 
ating the  large  green  leaves.  Forested  hills  enclosed  the 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  131 

peaceful  view  as  with  a  protecting  hand  which  would 
shield  it  from  the  terrors  of  the  frigid  Andes  on  one  side, 
and  the  steaming  Atrato  lowlands  on  the  other.  In  this 
garden  spot  we  decided  to  remain,  but  our  arrival  was 
nearly  marked  by  a  tragedy.  On  account  of  the  noonday 
heat  I  had  tucked  a  towel  under  my  hat  which,  hanging 
down  in  the  back  provided,  in  a  measure,  protection  from 
the  hot  sun.  One  of  our  peons,  in  a  spirit  of  fun,  told  several 
small  boys  we  chanced  to  meet  that  I  was  the  bishop  come 
to  pay  the  town  a  visit;  the  urchins  rushed  into  the  road  and 
prostrated  themselves  at  my  horse's  feet,  imploring  a  bene- 
diction. Fortunately  the  animal  took  fright  at  this  unusual 
occurrence  and  bolted  to  one  side  before  it  could  be  re- 
strained, narrowly  avoiding  trampling  the  kneeling  forms  in 
its  path. 

At  Dabeiba  we  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  tribe  of  in- 
teresting Indians — the  Cunas.  They  lived  in  banana-leaf 
huts,  scattered  over  a  wide  area,  but  spent  most  of  the  time 
in  town,  looking  into  open  doorways,  begging  for  rum,  or 
standing  in  silent  groups  on  the  street  corners.  They  are 
a  short,  well-knit  people  of  a  dark-brown  color.  When  in 
the  forest  they  wear  a  breech-cloth  only;  but  the  priest  has 
provided  them  with  large  muslin  sheets  that  they  promptly 
dyed  a  dirty-brown  hue  with  achiote  seeds,  which  they  wear 
while  in  town.  They  also  wore  heavy  necklaces  of  silver 
coins,  and  bunches  of  weeds  tied  about  the  neck  for  charms. 
At  first  sight  it  appeared  as  if  they  had  no  teeth,  but  further 
scrutiny  revealed  the  fact  that  their  dental  equipment  was 
perfect,  though  colored  black  from  the  juice  of  a  fruit  which 
they  chew  continuously.  The  body  is  liberally  besmeared 
with  grease — especially  before  they  enter  the  river  to  bathe, 
so  that  the  water  rolls  off  as  from  a  duck's  back.  One  of 
the  men  was  entirely  covered  with  star-shaped  marks  of  a 
deep-blue  color  which  had  been  stamped  on  with  a  die 
made  of  wood.  They  spoke  practically  no  Spanish,  but 
were  a  friendly  lot  and  enjoyed  being  photographed. 

In  order  to  reach  the  best  hunting-ground,  it  was  neces- 


132  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

sary  to  go  to  the  other  side  of  the  river,  but  this  was  not 
difficult  owing  to  the  fact  that  a  raft  ferry  was  available. 
Birds  were  plentiful  about  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  though 
of  species  common  to  open  country  and  easy  to  observe 
in  more  accessible  regions;  we  therefore  spent  the  greater 
part  of  our  time  in  the  forest. 

One  of  our  first  and  most  interesting  discoveries  was  a 
species  of  pigmy  motmot  (Hylomanes).  It  is  no  larger 
than  a  sparrow  and  has  a  very  short  tail  in  contrast  to  the 
long  "pendulum"  tails  of  the  better-known  varieties.  This 
little  blue-and-green  bird  lived  in  the  dense  vegetation  on 
the  steep  slopes,  and  when  several  flocked  together  they 
joined  in  a  loud,  cackling  chorus  at  frequent  intervals. 

The  cotton-fields  sheltered  a  varied  fauna.  Humming- 
birds came  to  the  blossoms,  and  numbers  of  fat,  red  insects 
resembling  potato-bugs  lived  among  the  drooping  white 
fibre  of  the  opened  pods.  Doves  ran  over  the  ground,  and 
small  rodents  had  their  burrows  at  the  base  of  the  thick 
stems. 

While  at  Dabeiba  we  met  one  of  the  most  delightful 
Colombians — a  type  which  I  am  afraid  is  vanishing,  even 
as  the  forests  and  virgin  wilds  disappear  before  the  on- 
slaughts of  civilization.  He  had  but  recently  penetrated 
farther  into  the  wilderness,  cleared  a  few  acres  of  ground 
and  erected  a  humble  cabin  of  bamboo  and  wild  banana 
leaves;  to  this  he  urged  us  to  come  for  as  long  a  time  as 
we  should  care  to  remain;  so  one  morning  we  gathered  to- 
gether the  most  essential  articles  of  our  equipment  and 
tramped  through  the  intervening  eight  miles  of  jungle  to 
his  home.  The  beauty  of  the  forest  is  indescribable;  and 
wild  life  was  so  abundant  that  by  the  time  our  journey's 
end  was  reached  we  had  attained  such  a  stage  of  thrilling 
expectancy  it  was  difficult  to  restrain  our  enthusiasm  for 
the  few  hours  needed  to  seek  shelter  indoors  from  an  ap- 
proaching storm.  The  shrill  cries  of  parrots  cleft  the  air; 
trogons  cooed  plaintively;  toucans  yelped  and  rattled; 
and  from  all  sides  came  the  whush-whush-whush  of  giant 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  133 

orioles'  wings  as  the  black-and-yellow  forms  hurried  by  to 
seek  their  pendent  nests  swaying  dizzily  from  the  branches 
of  some  giant  ceiba  towering  regally  above  the  unbroken 
forest. 

While  we  waited  for  the  storm  to  subside,  the  cook  shelled 
corn  and  then,  placing  it  in  a  wooden  mortar  together  with 
a  handful  of  ashes,  began  to  pound  it  to  remove  the  skins. 
This  operation  required  about  half  an  hour,  so  frequently 
she  paused  to  rest;  but  no  sooner  had  she  deserted  her 
post  than  a  swarm  of  cargador  ants  invaded  the  receptacle, 
and  the  first  intimation  we  had  of  their  presence  was  when 
a  file  of  white  kernels  began  to  descend  the  side  of  the  mor- 
tar and  cross  the  floor  at  our  feet.  How  the  small  insects 
are  able  to  carry  the  large,  heavy  grains  is  a  mystery.  The 
burden  weighs  many  times  as  much  as  the  ant  which  bears 
it,  and  almost  hides  it  from  view.  Later,  we  saw  swarms 
of  the  same  species  at  work  in  the  clearing;  they  cut  sec- 
tions from  the  edges  of  corn  leaves  by  digging  one  mandible 
into  the  leaf  for  a  secure  hold,  and  then  rip  toward  it  with 
the  other;  the  cut  is  always  circular.  Most  of  the  insects 
worked  from  right  to  left,  but  one  out  of  every  five  seemed 
to  be  "left-handed"  and  worked  in  the  opposite  direction. 
When  the  section  of  leaf  is  detached  it  is  dexterously  swung 
over  the  cutter's  back,  and  away  it  marches  with  the  green 
banner  waving  aloft.  In  addition  to  carrying  this  load, 
several  small  ants  often  mount  on  the  leaf  for  a  free  ride  to 
the  nest. 

That  night  another  denizen  of  the  wilds  invaded  the  house; 
as  we  sat  quietly  in  front  of  the  hut  listening  to  a  shrill, 
uncanny  oh-ho-ho-ho-ho  coming  from  the  forest,  and  which 
the  natives  said  was  the  mating  call  of  the  three-toed  sloth, 
but  which  we  recognized  as  the  song  of  a  giant  frogmouth  or 
goatsucker,  a  cat  owned  by  the  family  began  to  cut  queer 
capers  about  the  fireplace.  A  light  revealed  a  good-sized 
bushmaster  making  its  way  across  the  kitchen  floor. 
Whether  the  reptile  had  been  attracted  by  the  warm  glow 
of  the  embers — for  the  rain  had  been  followed  by  a  decided 


134  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

drop  in  temperature— or  had  entered  the  structure  to  forage 
for  mice,  I  do  not  know;  but  fortunately  the  cat  had  dis- 
covered its  presence  in  time  to  prevent  some  one  from  step- 
ping on  it,  and  was  striking  at  it  playfully  with  its  paws. 
After  that  the  cook  slept  on  a  bench  instead  of  on  the  earth 
floor,  as  had  been  her  custom. 

Our  daily  excursions  took  us  far  into  the  forest  which  in- 
vested the  low,  rounded  hills  in  all  directions.  There  were 
few  trails,  but  a  lack  of  undergrowth  made  walking  easy. 
On  one  of  our  first  hunting  expeditions  we  found  the  rare 
ground-cuckoo  (Neomorphus),  a  beautiful  iridescent  green- 
ish-black bird  which,  on  account  of  its  terrestrial  habits, 
has  nearly  lost  the  power  of  flight.  Once  before,  I  had  seen 
this  bird,  and  that  was  on  the  upper  Orinoco,  near  the  foot 
of  Mount  Duida.  There  the  single  individual  was  engaged 
in  a  curious  game  of  tag  with  a  tinamou;  the  birds  chased 
one  another  about  on  the  leaf-strewn  ground,  over  logs,  and 
through  the  underbrush,  and  jumped  over  one  another's 
back  as  if  playing  leap-frog.  We  also  found  the  flat-billed 
motmot  in  considerable  numbers.  These  birds  usually 
clung  to  the  lianas  drooping  in  festoons  and  loops  above 
the  small  mountain  brooks,  and  were  exceedingly  stupid 
and  unsuspicious.  They  uttered  no  note,  and  sat  motion- 
less many  minutes  at  a  time,  silhouetted  like  dark,  ragged 
spectres  on  their  perches.  Among  the  moss  or  green  leaves 
their  color  blended  well  with  the  surroundings,  and  we 
doubtless  passed  numbers  without  being  aware  of  their 
presence. 

Not  all  the  birds  inhabiting  the  forests  at  Alto  Bonito 
are  inconspicuously  colored,  however.  There  are  gorgeous 
little  tanagers,  humming-birds,  toucans,  and  trogons.  The 
latter,  especially,  are  creatures  of  such  exquisite  beauty 
that  they  seem  to  belong  to  a  world  more  ethereal  than  our 
own;  their  brilliant  scarlet  or  yellow  breasts  resemble  a 
flower  of  dazzling  color,  for  which  the  shimmering,  metallic 
wing-coverts  and  back  provide  a  resplendent  setting.  The 
bird  is  as  fragile  as  it  is  beautiful,  and  was  evidently  not 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  135 

intended  to  be  defiled  by  the  touch  of  mortal  hands.  If  a 
specimen  is  shot,  many  of  the  feathers  are  lost  before  the 
bird  reaches  the  ground,  and  at  the  impact  of  the  ground 
many  more  are  shed.  The  skin  is  so  delicate  that  it  takes 
an  expert  to  remove  it,  and  even  then  the  bird  is  the  despair 
of  field-naturalist  and  taxidermist  alike. 

There  was  also  a  splendid  representation  of  the  parrot 
family,  ranging  from  noisy  little  parrakeets  to  huge,  green 
amazons.  This  reminded  me  of  an  interesting  provision  of 
nature  whereby  three  families  of  birds  frequently  found  in 
the  same  locality  are  able  to  obtain  their  sustenance.  They 
are  the  parrots,  trogons,  and  toucans,  all  of  which  feed 
upon  fruit,  each  seeming  to  secure  its  food  in  a  different 
manner.  The  zygodactyl  feet  of  parrots  enable  them  to 
climb  out  to  the  tip  of  fruit-laden  branches  and  to  cling  to 
them  in  any  position  while  feeding;  toucans,  endowed  with 
an  emormously  elongated  bill  are  able  to  reach  a  long  dis- 
tance for  a  coveted  morsel,  which  is  grasped  between  the 
tip  of  the  mandibles  and  tossed  back  with  an  upward  jerk 
of  the  head,  to  be  swallowed;  a  trogon  has  a  very  short 
beak  and  neck,  and  the  delicate  feet  are  not  adapted  to 
climbing,  but  the  wings  of  the  bird  are  so  constructed  as 
to  enable  it  to  hover,  from  which  position  the  fruit  it  de- 
sires may  be  snapped  off  the  stem,  when  the  bird  returns 
to  its  perch  to  devour  it. 

One  day  our  host's  son,  aged  thirteen,  undertook  to  guide 
me  to  a  distant  part  of  the  forest,  where  he  said  a  large 
herd  of  peccaries  had  their  feeding-ground.  At  first  we 
passed  through  a  part  of  the  country  well  known  to  me,  as 
I  had  taken  a  number  of  hunting  excursions  over  the  same 
ground;  then  we  ascended  a  steep  slope  and,  reaching  the 
top,  began  to  explore  a  vast  stretch  of  heavy  woods  but 
rarely  visited  by  any  one.  Although  we  had  come  for  the 
express  purpose  of  hunting  peccaries,  there  were  so  many 
rare  prizes  on  all  sides  that  it  was  impossible  to  adhere 
strictly  to  our  first  intention;  the  temptation  to  add  new 
treasures  to  our  collection  proved  too  great.  Dainty  little 


136  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

pigmy  squirrels  played  in  the  top  of  the  palms,  or  clung 
like  lichens  to  the  tree-trunks. 

Some  of  the  trees  bore  ripe  fruit,  and  to  them  many  ani- 
mals came  which  are  hard  or  even  impossible  to  find  under 
other  conditions,  thus  making  an  ideal  spot  for  the  natural- 
ist. A  few  seeds  of  the  alligator-pear  cast  away  by  a 
hunter  years  before  had  taken  root  and  grown  into  good- 
sized  trees;  the  fruit  dropped  to  the  ground  as  it  matured, 
attracting  agoutis,  which  collected,  apparently  from  some 
distance,  to  feed  on  the  rich  morsels.  Other  trees  were 
laden  with  small  berries.  Although  there  was  no  sound  to 
indicate  the  presence  of  a  living  thing,  we  usually  discov- 
ered that  first  impressions  were  deceptive.  If  we  waited  a 
short  time,  a  gentle  patter  on  the  leaves  at  our  feet  re- 
warded our  patience;  and  then  a  close  scrutiny  of  the  leafy 
vault  revealed  silent,  dark  forms  carefully  moving  among 
the  tops  of  the  branches  and  reaching  out  to  pick  the  fruit 
upon  which  they  were  feeding.  Gradually  the  shadowy 
forms  assumed  the  shape  of  toucans,  parrots,  or  macaws; 
the  latter  two  birds  are  very  wasteful  and  drop  far  more 
food  than  they  eat. 

The  presence  of  an  ant  army  is  invariably  advertised  by 
the  sharp  chirp  of  the  ant-wrens  attending  it.  We  encoun- 
tered one,  and  spent  an  exciting  half-hour  securing  two 
species  of  ant-birds,  one  black  with  white  shoulders  (Myrme- 
lastes),  and  the  other  of  a  brown  color  with  a  white  line  run- 
ning through  the  centre  of  the  underparts  (Anoplops) ;  they 
had  been  feeding  on  beetles  and  spiders,  and  examination 
of  the  stomach  contents  revealed  also  a  few  ants.  After 
shooting  a  bird  it  was  necessary  to  enter  into  the  thick  of 
the  voracious  insects  to  hunt  for  it;  but  before  the  trophy 
could  be  recovered  swarms  of  ants  had  climbed  up  our  legs 
and  clung  with  a  bulldog  grip. 

Occasionally  we  saw  a  flock  of  manakins — brilliant  little 
sprites  of  the  forest,  always  found  in  the  densest  thickets. 
Some  are  black  with  golden  heads;  others,  also  black,  have 
yellow  breasts  and  long  tufts  of  feathers  on  the  throat,  giv- 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PARAMILLO  137 

ing  the  bird  a  comical,  bearded  appearance;  a  third  spe- 
cies had  a  vivid  scarlet  crest.  The  males  only  are  brightly 
colored;  the  females  are  green. 

There  were  signs  of  peccaries  in  abundance,  but  the  con- 
stant shooting  had  frightened  them  away;  so  after  inspect- 
ing an  ancient  Indian  tomb  consisting  of  a  pile  of  carefully 
placed  stones,  overgrown  with  creepers,  we  started  for 
home.  Instead  of  retracing  our  steps  over  the  many  miles 
we  had  come,  we  followed  a  narrow  gorge  which  we  knew 
must  lead  to  the  Rio  Sucio.  Progress  was  slow  and  diffi- 
cult, for  the  brook  descended  in  a  series  of  falls,  and  the 
rocks  were  covered  with  moss  and  were  slippery;  however, 
having  started  via  this  route,  it  was  impossible  to  retrace 
our  steps. 

There  was  little  of  interest  along  the  course  of  the  treach- 
erous little  stream;  but  we  discovered  nests  of  a  barred 
black-and-white  wren  (Thryophilus)  swinging  gayly  above 
the  water.  The  basket-shaped  structures  had  been  placed 
in  the  wildest,  darkest  spots,  and  each  contained  a  single 
young  bird,  dozing  peacefully  in  the  entrance  opening,  lulled 
to  sleep,  no  doubt,  by  the  semigloom  and  the  sound  of 
rushing  water. 

As  we  picked  our  way  along  slowly  and  painfully,  fre- 
quently wading  through  water  three  feet  deep,  a  dark, 
shadowy  form  lunged  from  the  blackness  of  a  cavern  among 
the  boulders  and  clung  for  an  instant  to  the  cuff  of  my 
hunting-coat;  then  it  dropped  to  the  ground,  and  slowly 
disappeared  among  the  rocks.  My  companion,  who  was  a 
few  feet  in  advance,  had  just  turned  to  make  some  comment, 
and  it  was  not  until  his  frantic  shriek  brought  me  back  to 
earth  that  I  fully  realized  what  had  occurred.  A  bush- 
master,  apparently  four  or  five  feet  long  had  become  exas- 
perated at  our  close  proximity,  and  aimed  a  deadly  thrust 
at  the  disturber  of  its  diurnal  slumber.  This  habit  of  the 
snake  is  well  known;  by  nature  it  is  sluggish;  one  person 
may  pass  close  by  without  arousing  its  anger,  while  to  a 
second  individual,  immediately  following,  it  will  show  re- 


138  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

sentment,  although  it  may  not  strike;  but  a  third  may  con- 
sider himself  fortunate,  indeed,  if  he  does  not  draw  the  full 
measure  of  the  reptile's  fury. 

The  exploration  at  Alto  Bonito  yielded  such  rich  returns 
that  we  regretted  the  necessity  of  leaving;  but  a  field-nat- 
uralist's time  is  not  unlimited,  and  presently  we  found  our- 
selves riding  across  the  parched  Antioquian  desert,  en  route 
to  Medellin. 

The  work  at  Alto  Bonito  provided  the  last  link  in  the 
chain  of  facts  regarding  the  forestation  of  northwestern 
Antioquia,  and  also  throws  some  light  on  the  extension  of 
the  mountain  ranges.  For  information  on  the  latter  sub- 
ject we  were  compelled  to  rely  largely  on  data  furnished  by 
Senor  Cspinas,  director  of  the  School  of  Mines,  Medellin; 
Senor  Ernesto  White,  an  engineer  who  has  made  surveys 
in  the  region,  and  the  reports  of  Indians. 

The  Western  Cordillera  terminates  in  the  Cerro  Aguila, 
just  below  9°,  near  the  Golfo  de  Uruba",  and  is  less  than  one 
thousand  feet  high.  The  range  breaks  down,  gradually, 
north  of  the  Paramillo.  In  latitude  7J^°  the  highest  peak 
is  known  as  Alto  Esmeralda,  four  thousand  feet  high;  and 
the  Abibi,  a  few  miles  farther  north,  reaches  an  altitude 
of  only  three  thousand  six  hundred  feet. 

A  trail  recently  built  (by  Senor  White)  from  Turbo  on 
the  Gulf  of  Urubd,  to  Montana  on  the  Rio  Sinu  crosses 
the  very  country  about  which  we  knew  least;  the  elevation 
of  its  highest  point  is  eight  hundred  feet,  and  every  mile 
of  the  way  was  cut  through  heavy  virgin  forest. 


PART  II 
VENEZUELA 


CHAPTER  X 
FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO 

IT  seemed  as  if  the  declining  sun  had  set  the  quivering 
world  aflame;  all  day  long  the  Delta,  well  remembered 
but  unbeloved  by  voyagers  on  the  Master  River,  had 
struggled  on  against  the  yellow  flood  toward  her  goal  two 
hundred  and  forty  miles  above  the  Parian  Gulf.  Not  a 
ripple  stirred  the  placid  water  which  glided  ever  onward, 
and  no  breeze  stirred  the  heavy,  dark  vegetation  that  lined 
the  river's  bank.  It  had  been  one  of  those  days  which  only 
the  traveller  to  tropical  lands  can  adequately  picture;  when 
all  the  earth  silently  droops  beneath  the  unrelenting  glare 
of  the  lurid  orb  overhead,  and  eagerly  awaits  the  coming 
of  night  which  alone  can  bring  relief. 

As  the  last  vestige  of  the  sullen  disk  dipped  into  the 
forest,  and  only  a  faint  pink  and  violet  glow  lit  up  the  banks 
of  vapors  hanging  low  in  the  west,  the  nightly  gales  from 
the  ocean  sprang  up  with  unrestrained  vigor;  soon  a  choppy 
sea  was  raging,  and  as  each  white-capped  wave  struck  her 
wooden  sides  with  a  muffled  boom,  the  fragile,  top-heavy 
steamer  shuddered  and  threatened  to  capsize.  Morning, 
however,  found  her  still  battling  bravely  with  the  some- 
what subsided  elements,  and,  not  long  after,  the  Delta  was 
slowly  dragging  herself  alongside  the  high,  sandy  beach  on 
which  stands  Ciudad  Bolivar. 

The  first  white  man  to  ascend  the  Orinoco  was  Ordaz, 
who  in  1531-2  went  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Meta; 
and  after  him  came  the  usual  bands  of  treasure-seekers  in 
quest  of  El  Dorado;  but  instead  of  wonderful  golden  cities 
they  found  yawning  graves  in  a  hostile  wilderness. 

In  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  missions,  founded 
by  the  Jesuit  fathers,  dotted  the  river-bank  as  far  up  as 

141 


142  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Esmeraldas;  these  have  long  since  vanished.  Humboldt 
made  his  memorable  voyage  to  the  Cassiquiare  in  1800, 
and  a  number  of  other  scientific  expeditions  followed  in 
his  wake  at  irregular  intervals;  to  enumerate  them  all  would 
be  a  tedious  and  unwarranted  use  of  time.  However,  one 
remarkable  fact  must  not  be  overlooked,  namely,  that  even 
to  this  day  the  actual  sources  of  the  Orinoco  have  not  been 
discovered. 

To  trace  this  huge  artery  to  its  very  beginning,  supposedly 
somewhere  in  the  Serrania  de  Parima  on  the  Brazilian  fron- 
tier was  not  the  object  of  our  expedition;  but  rather  to 
explore  the  regions  north  of  the  inaccurately  mapped  Rio 
Cunucunuma,  more  particularly  Mount  Duida,  thought 
by  many  to  be  the  locality  described  in  a  widely  read  book 
entitled  "The  Lost  World."  Of  this  country,  and  of  the 
people  and  animal  life  inhabiting  its  virgin  wilds/ very  little 
was  known. 

With  the  tying  up  of  the  Delta  the  first  stage  of  our 
journey  had  been  completed. 

Ciudad  Bolivar,  formerly  called  Angostura,  meaning 
narrows,  on  account  of  the  narrowing  of  the  Orinoco  at 
this  point  to  the  width  of  a  mile,  stands  on  an  eminence 
on  the  left  bank,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  Department  of 
Guiana;  it  is  the  largest  and  only  city  of  importance  on 
the  river.  The  red-tiled  roofs  and  whitewashed  walls  of 
the  houses  can  be  seen  from  afar.  On  landing,  one  is  con- 
fronted by  a  strange  medley  of  low,  thick-walled  edifices; 
narrow,  crooked  streets,  and  swarthy,  unkempt  people. 
Practically  all  of  the  windows'  are  heavily  barred,  a  custom 
common  in  many  parts  of  South  America,  and  retained 
from  the  Moors. 

Whatever  beauty  attached  to  the  place  is  indoors.  There 
are  no  green  lawns  or  flowering  gardens  to  cheer  the  eye  of 
the  passer-by;  but  a  glimpse  behind  the  sombre  walls  will 
invariably  reveal  an  open  court  or  patio  filled  with  flowers 
and  tropical  shrubbery,  and  occasionally  a  fountain;  but 
this  is  not  all.  In  the  patio  of  the  hotel,  which  served  as 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO     143 

our  headquarters,  there  lived  in  perfect  harmony  several 
large  tortoises,  a  deer,  two  sheep,  about  a  dozen  tree-ducks, 
turkeys,  chickens,  guinea-fowl,  and  several  pigs;  fifteen 
species  of  birds,  including  parrots,  orioles,  and  finches  oc- 
cupied cages  hanging  on  the  walls.  The  desire  to  keep  caged 
animals  is  an  inherent  trait  of  the  South  American.  Back 
of  the  city  lies  an  extensive  swamp  from  which,  at  least 
during  the  month  of  December,  came  great  numbers  of 
mosquitoes.  As  may  have  been  inferred,  the  heat  was  very 
great;  but  regularly  at  nightfall  the  strong  wind  came  up 
the 'river,  causing  a  drop  of  several  degrees  in  the  tempera- 
ture; then  the  town  cast  off  its  torpor,  lights  twinkled,  the 
band  played  on  the  water-front,  gayly  dressed  and  painted 
women  peered  from  behind  the  heavily  barred  windows, 
the  streets  were  filled  with  a  roving  crowd  of  men  and  boys, 
and  Ciudad  Bolivar  presented  a  wide-awake  appearance. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Orinoco  is  the  small  town  of 
Soledad;  this  village  supplies  a  large  portion  of  the  sailors 
who  man  the  boats  plying  on  the  river. 

Our  first  care  was  to  try  to  find  a  way  of  proceeding  on 
our  voyage.  On  account  of  the  low  stage  of  the  water  from 
the  months  of  January  to  March,  steamers  do  not  ascend 
beyond  Ciudad  Bolivar  regularly,  and  at  best  they  go  only 
as  far  as  the  Apure.  It  was,  therefore,  decided  to  charter 
a  sailboat  of  shallow  draft  which  would  take  us  to  the  first 
great  barrier  to  navigation,  the  cataracts  of  Atures.  To 
secure  such  a  craft  was  not  an  easy  matter.  We  visited 
several  of  the  large  export  houses,  mostly  German,  but 
none  of  them  had  vessels  at  their  disposal.  Finally,  we 
heard  of  a  man  named  Guillermo  Montez;  he  was  a  type 
frequently  met  with  in  South  America;  owning  a  small  store 
which  contained  chiefly  long  ropes  of  garlic  festooned  on 
the  walls,  living  in  a  mud  hovel,  and  apparently  poverty- 
stricken,  he  nevertheless  possessed  great  wealth  and  knew 
how  to  handle  his  fellow  countrymen.  This  "handling" 
consisted  of  keeping  them  constantly  in  debt  to  himself, 
so  that  he  owned  them  virtually  body  and  soul.  Montez 


144  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

immediately  sent  to  Soledad  for  one  of  his  debtors,  and 
within  a  short  time  we  had  secured  the  contract  for  the 
transportation  needed. 

v  On  December  16  word  reached  us  that  the  boat  was 
ready.  We  had  spent  the  intervening  days  adding  to  the 
stock  of  provisions  brought  from  New  York,  and  it  might 
be  added  that  the  shops  of  Ciudad  Bolivar  were  well  filled 
with  a  splendid  assortment  of  foodstuffs  at  reasonable 
prices. 

The  Hilo  de  Oro  (Thread  of  Gold),  for  that  was  the  name 
of  the  sloop  impatiently  bobbing  near  the  bank,  was  a  boat 
capable  of  carrying  one  hundred  and  fifty  guintales,  under 
the  command  of  one  Pedro  Solano;  her  crew  consisted  of 
four  men,  and  the  captain's  wife,  whose  position  was  that 
of  cook.  To  properly  load  the  equipment  and  provisions 
required  half  a  day,  and  with  the  springing  up  of  the  eve- 
ning wind  we  hoisted  sail  and,  skirting  the  towering  rocks 
protruding  from  the  centre  of  the  river,  glided  easily  to 
the  other  side.  As  all  the  men  came  from  Soledad,  there 
followed  a  night  of  the  usual  festivities  of  drinking  and  leave- 
taking;  but  with  the  rising  sun,  the  wind  still  holding  out, 
we  started  on  the  real  voyage  up  the  great  river. 

Fortunately,  the  wind  was  favorable  and  continued  to 
blow  intermittently  all  day  long;  by  ten  o'clock  at  night 
we  had  covered  about  thirty  miles  and  cast  anchor  at  a 
point  called  Boca  la  Brea.  The  width  of  the  river  averaged 
.about  one  mile  and  a  half,  and  the  entire  bed  is  strewn  with 
huge  boulders,  rendering  navigation  at  night  impossible. 

Next  day,  a  favorable  wind  did  not  reach  us  until  late 
in  the  morning,  and  we  had  our  first  glimpse  of  wild  life. 
The  crew,  a  piratical-appearing  band  with  unshaven  faces, 
wearing  short  breeches  only,  and  red  and  blue  handker- 
chiefs around  their  heads,  landed  a  number  of  large  striped 
catfish;  but  their  tackle  was  too  light  and  others  of  greater 
weight  broke  the  lines  and  escaped.  Numbers  of  caimans, 
of  crocodiles,  floated  lazily  down-stream  with  only  the  eyes 
and  saw-like  tails  showing  above  the  water;  and  a  school 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO      145 

of  fresh- water  porpoises  jumped  and  raced  around  the 
boat. 

On  the  days  that  followed,  the  wind  either  died  down 
entirely  or  blew  with  terrific  violence,  so  that  slow  progress 
was  made.  The  chubascoSj  or  squalls,  not  uncommon  on 
tropical  rivers,  come  up  suddenly  and  without  warning; 
a  faint,  funnel-shaped  mass  appears  on  the  horizon,  fol- 
lowed by  a  low  bank  of  black  clouds,  and  fitful  little  sand- 
spouts that  spring  into  existence  on  the  vast  playas.  There 
is  never  time  to  seek  the  leeward  banks,  and  not  a  minute 
is  lost  in  lowering  sails  and  placing  every  available  object 
below  to  prevent  its  being  washed  overboard.  While  Cap- 
tain Solano  shouted  hoarse  orders  and  the  crew  worked 
like  mad  (the  only  time  they  really  did  work),  we  donned 
our  oilskins  and  awaited  the  coming  of  the  storm.  To  go 
down  into  the  hatch  was  impossible,  both  on  account  of 
the  lack  of  space  and  the  stifling  heat.  The  wait  was  never 
very  long;  with  a  roar  the  hurricane  burst  upon  the  quiet 
river,  and  in  a  few  minutes  everything  was  obliterated  in 
the  dense  fog  and  wall  of  falling  water.  The  wind  tore 
through  the  rigging  with  agonized  wails,  and  angry  white- 
capped  waves  sprang  suddenly  into  existence,  sweeping 
over  the  boat  and  dashing  it  about  like  a  cork  in  a  mill- 
race.  There  was  nothing  to  be  done  but  wait  until  the  storm 
subsided  and  hope  that  no  obstructing  boulder,  or  the  bank, 
would  put  an  end  to  the  madly  careening  craft  in  the  semi- 
darkness.  This  lasted  from  fifteen  minutes  to  an  houf; 
then  the  wind  died  down,  the  rain  ceased,  and  the  fog  lifted. 
A  changed  river  presented  itself.  Monstrous  waves,  capped 
with  foam,  dashed  and  tore  at  the  high,  crumbling  banks, 
undermining  them  so  that  large  sections  tumbled  into  the 
water,  carrying  with  them  tall  trees  and  massed  vegetation. 
The  agitated  surface  was  littered  with  debris  which  bore 
good  evidence  of  the  violence  of  the  storm. 

After  this  there  followed  several  days  of  calm;  there  was 
not  enough  wind  to  fill  the  sails,  and  all  the  "whistling  for 
a  breeze"  of  the  sailors  did  exactly  as  much  good  as  one 


146  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

would  expect  it  to.  Finally,  in  desperation,  a  long  rope 
was  tied  to  the  mast,  and  two  men  going  ahead  in  a  canoe 
made  the  other  end  fast  to  a  tree,  a  few  hundred  feet  ahead. 
The  remaining  members  of  the  crew  then  hauled  on  the 
rope,  slowly  drawing  the  boat  forward.  Progress  was  slow, 
of  course,  but  on  the  22d  we  reached  the  Puerto  del  Infierno, 
the  best  possible  name  for  the  narrow,  rocky  gorge  through 
which  the  river  rushes  with  uncontrolled  fury.  A  large 
mass  of  granite  covered  with  low  vegetation  divides  the 
river  into  two  narrow  channels,  one  of  them  so  protected 
by  high,  rocky  banks  that  no  wind  ever  reaches  the  water, 
consequently  making  it  impossible  for  boats  to  sail  up  the 
passage.  The  other  is  a  narrow,  rock-strewn  gorge,  down 
which  the  water  thunders  in  a  series  of  cascades.  On  the 
right  bank,  perched  high  on  the  rocks,  are  a  few  mud  huts 
called  Pueblo  de  las  Piedras.  We  spent  the  greater  part 
of  a  day  waiting  for  wind,  and  then  made  straight  for  the 
seething  passage.  Fortunately  our  pilot  was  a  good  one; 
his  method  was  to  steer  directly  for  some  great  boulder, 
below  which  the  water  was  quiet,  and  just  as  the  ship 
seemed  about  to  strike  he  swung  the  tiller,  and  the  boat 
painfully  nosed  her  way  up  the  cataract  that  dashed  down 
the  sides  of  the  rock.  If  the  breeze  slackened  for  a  moment 
the  ship  drifted  back  with  the  strong  current,  which  was 
extremely  dangerous,  as  there  was  no  way  of  regulating 
her  course;  but  always,  just  in  the  nick  of  time,  the  sails 
filled  and  after  an  hour's  struggle  we  left  the  rapids  and 
sailed  into  the  quiet  water  above. 

Not  far  above  the  Infierno  is  the  village  of  Mapire,  a  neat 
collection  of  perhaps  fifty  huts  on  a  high  bluff  overlooking 
the  river.  In  back  of  the  town  are  vast  llanos,  or  grassy 
plains,  which  are  capable  of  supporting  numerous  herds  of 
cattle.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  some  little 
distance  up,  is  the  mouth  of  the  Caura,  at  one  time  believed 
to  be  the  home  of  a  tribe  of  headless  people;  but  the  old 
superstition  has  been  overthrown,  and  during  the  first 
month  of  each  year  many  adventurous  parties  ascend  the 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO      147 

river  for  a  considerable  distance  in  search  of  the  serrapia 
or  tonca-bean.  The  tree  (Dipteryx  odoratd)  upon  which  the 
fruit  grows  resembles  a  mango,  with  spreading  branches 
and  deep-green,  dense  leaves.  The  fruit  also  is  very  similar 
to  the  mango,  though  green,  with  tough,  fibrous  flesh  and  a 
large  seed.  While  the  fruit  is  still  green  great  quantities  of 
it  are  destroyed  by  macaws  and  parrots,  which  take  a  bite 
or  two,  then  drop  the  rest  on  the  ground.  Upon  ripening, 
the  fruit  falls,  when  it  is  gathered  into  heaps  and  dried; 
the  seeds  are  later  cracked  open  and  the  strong-smelling 
kernel  extracted  to  be  carefully  preserved  and  sent  to 
Ciudad  Bolivar,  where  it  is  treated  in  casks  of  rum  and 
then  exported.  It  is  used  in  making  perfumes  and  flavor- 
ing extracts. 

The  water  of  the  Caura  is  of  a  clear  dark-red  color,  and 
for  a  great  distance  after  entering  the  Orinoco  the  two 
waters  flow  side  by  side  without  mingling  in  the  slightest 
degree. 

The  Orinoco  widens  into  a  majestic  stream  above  this 
point,  and  we  estimated  that  the  distance  from  bank  to 
bank  must  in  some  places  be  from  three  to  five  miles;  also, 
vast  sand-banks  stretch  along  both  sides  for  a  distance  of 
many  miles. 

Caicara,  the  only  town  of  importance  on  the  Orinoco 
besides  Ciudad  Bolivar,  consisted  at  the  time  of  our  visit 
of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  houses,  but  on  account  of  a 
rubber  and  serrapia  boom  on  the  Cuchivero  many  of  the 
inhabitants  were  leaving  for  the  latter  place.  The  next 
day  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Apure,  and  just  beyond 
the  mouth  of  the  Arichuma;  a  great  low,  sandy  island  rises 
out  of  the  centre  of  the  Orinoco  at  this  point,  on  which 
thousands  of  terns,  skimmers,  gulls,  and  other  water-fowl 
were  apparently  nesting.  All  day  long  and  even  at  night 
the  air  was  filled  with  darting,  screaming  birds  that  made 
such  a  terrific  din  that  it  was  impossible  to  sleep.  High 
waves  prevented  our  landing  on  the  island,  but  the  natives 
visit  it  regularly,  taking  away  canoe-loads  of  eggs;  for  this 


148  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

reason  the  island  has  been  named  Playa  de  Manteca,  mean- 
ing in  this  case  land  of  plenty. 

The  next  settlement  is  called  Urbana,  and  is  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  river,  almost  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Arauca. 
It  consists  of  about  a  score  of  hovels.  The  Arauca  is  a 
river  of  considerable  size,  and  is  said  to  be  bordered  by  vast 
marshes  and  swamps,  the  home  of  countless  egrets  and  other 
water-birds.  Hunting-parties  ascend  during  the  nesting-sea- 
son and  kill  great  numbers  of  the  birds;  the  plumes  are  taken 
to  Ciudad  Bolivar  and  disposed  of  to  the  export  dealers. 

Leaving  Urbana  on  the  29th,  we  entered  one  of  the  most 
difficult  stretches  of  the  river  to  navigate.  The  fish-hook 
bend  of  the  Orinoco  turns  southward,  and  the  eastern  bank 
is  dotted  with  a  range  of  low  granite  hills  which  are,  in 
fact,  a  chain  of  giant,  blackened,  dome-shaped  boulders. 
The  wind  from  the  east,  roaring  through  each  cleft  and 
opening,  strikes  the  river  from  several  directions  and  with 
cyclonic  violence.  One  moment  there  is  scarcely  enough 
to  make  headway  against  the  current;  the  next  a  gust  strikes 
the  sails  and  sends  the  ship  wallowing  on  her  beam  until 
the  boom  drags  in  the  water  and  it  is  an  even  bet  if  she  will 
gradually  right  herself  or  go  over.  At  such  times  of  peril 
as  well  as  on  starting  each  morning  it  is  the  custom  of  the 
sailors  to  pray.  Of  course  they  were  all  Catholics.  The 
captain  or  whoever  steers  said,  "Vamos  con  Dios"  (let  us 
go  with  God),  and  the  others  answered  in  chorus:  "  Y  con 
la  Virgen"  (and  with  the  Virgin).  Occasionally  the  person 
whose  duty  it  was  to  lead  was  so  occupied  rolling  a  cigarette 
or  slapping  at  flies  that  he  neglected  his  duty;  then  some 
one  was  sure  to  remind  him  with  a  sarcastic  "Aha!  Hoy 
vamos  como  los  Protestantes"  (Aha!  To-day  we  are  start- 
ing like  the  Protestants).  It  often  happened  that  the  crew 
was  remiss.  The  captain  repeated  his  lead  several  times 
without  being  heard;  finally,  his  patience  exhausted,  he 
shouted  at  the  top 'of  his  voice,  "  Vamos  con  Dios,  caramba," 
and  the  crew  immediately  yelled  back  at  the  top  of  their 
voices:  "Y  con  la  Virgen,  caramba." 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO      149 

Added  to  the  danger  of  the  shifting  gales  is  a  rapids 
named  San  Jorge.  There  was  just  enough  water  to  cover 
the  rocks  which  dot  the  river-bed,  causing  a  series  of  cross- 
currents and  whirlpools  which  only  a  Venezuelan  boat- 
man, trusting  mainly  to  luck,  can  hope  to  pass  through. 
The  rigging  of  the  Hilo  de  Oro  was  old  and  rotten,  and 
ropes  were  constantly  snapping  and  sails  splitting.  No 
matter  how  obvious  a  defect  was,  it  was  never  remedied 
until  an  accident  had  occurred.  The  boom  had  been 
threatening  to  break  as  each  sudden  gust  of  wind  struck 
the  mainsail,  but  a  few  boards  nailed  across  the  weakened 
place  it  was  hoped  would  give  sufficient  strength  for  any 
emergency.  An  hour  after  leaving  San  Jorge,  however,  the 
boom  parted  with  a  loud  report  and  dropped  into  the  water, 
nearly  upsetting  the  boat.  Then,  while  the  craft  wallowed 
on  her  side  with  the  deck  awash  there  ensued  a  good  deal 
of  mingled  praying,  swearing,  and  frantic  work  until  the 
heavy  boom  was  fished  out  of  the  water.  We  tied  up  at 
the  bank,  cut  down  a  tree,  and  worked  the  greater  part  of 
the  night  replacing  the  broken  member. 

One  of  the  curious  granite  battlements  rears  its  head  out 
of  the  water  to  a  height  of  several  hundred  feet,  and  is 
somewhat  suggestive  of  a  small  edition  of  the  famous  Sugar- 
Loaf  Rock  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
This  is  called  Treasure  Rock,  and  no  Venezuelan  ever  passes 
the  spot  without  casting  envious  glances  to  the  top.  In  the 
days  when  the  old  Spaniards  were  still  wandering  over 
the  newly  discovered  lands  in  search  of  El  Dorado,  so  the 
story  goes,  they  penetrated  far  into  the  Cerro  Sipapo  and 
found  rich  treasures  in  gold  and  precious  stones.  The 
Guajibo  Indians,  in  whose  domain  they  had  penetrated  and 
whom  they  had  robbed,  finally  tired  of  their  unwelcome 
guests  and  chased  them  down  the  river.  In  desperation 
the  Spaniards  formed  a  stronghold  on  this  island  rock,  driv- 
ing iron  spikes  into  its  sides  as  a  means  of  reaching  the  top; 
for  many  weeks  they  resisted  a  siege  by  the  savage  hordes, 
but  with  the  coming  of  the  rainy  season  the  Indians  with- 


150  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

drew  to  their  mountain  fastness.  Finally  the  Spaniards 
came  down,  cutting  off  the  spikes  as  they  descended;  they 
feared  pursuit,  so  left  the  treasure  on  the  rock,  hoping  to 
come  for  it  when  reinforcements  had  been  secured;  they 
never  returned,  and  to  this  day  the  fabulous  wealth  of  the 
Guajibos  lies  entombed  on  the  top  of  the  impregnable 
boulder. 

The  Meta  is  a  mighty  river  coming  from  the  immense 
prairie  region  of  eastern  Colombia.  It  is  navigable  for  the 
greater  part  of  its  course,  and  should  be  the  means  of  open- 
ing up  illimitable  grazing  areas  when  the  Orinoco  is  thrown 
open  to  free  navigation.  Where  the  Meta  joins  the  Orinoco, 
the  latter  is  fully  two  miles  wide;  near  its  mouth  the  coun- 
try is  covered  with  a  dense  scrub  growth.  As  we  neared 
the  mouth  of  the  great  river  several  large  canoes  filled  with 
Indians,  of  the  Guajibo  tribe,  shot  from  an  invisible  hiding- 
place  near  the  bank  and  made  for  the  centre  of  the  stream. 
They  have  an  unsavory  reputation  among  the  river-men, 
and  Captain  Solano  added  little  gayety  to  the  occasion 
when  he  prophesied  an  attack  and  armed  his  men.  On 
they  came,  swiftly  and  silently,  the  dusky,  naked  bodies 
bending  in  perfect  unison,  and  the  great  muscles  of  the 
arms  and  shoulders  rippling  in  the  sunlight  as  they  drove 
the  short,  pointed  paddles  deep  into  the  water  with  vigorous 
strokes;  but  our  suspicions  proved  to  be  unfounded.  They 
passed  rapidly  on  some  secret  mission  of  their  own  with- 
out even  condescending  to  glance  in  our  direction.  This 
utter  indifference  to  strangers,  I  found  later,  is  a  charac- 
teristic common  to  all  Indians  of  the  Upper  Orinoco.  A 
man  might  be  drowning  or  stranded  on  a  rock,  but  they 
would  pass  him  quietly  in  their  canoes  without  apparently 
seeing  him;  they  would  pay  not  the  slightest  attention  to 
his  cries  for  help.  Their  ill  treatment  at  the  hands  of 
strangers  has  been  so  great  that  they  have  lost  all  confidence 
in  any  one  unknown  to  them,  and  so  they  retaliate  by  feign- 
ing indifference  to  him,  even  in  his  direst  need. 

The  nights  were  usually  spent  aboard  ship.    If  there  was 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO      151 

no  wind  it  was  safe  to  tie  up  to  some  tree;  or  if  darkness 
overtook  us  near  a  playa  the  anchor  was  carried  ashore 
and  buried  in  the  sand.  While  the  cook  prepared  supper 
on  the  brazier  or  over  a  fire  built  on  the  bank,  hammocks 
were  strung  in  the  rigging,  and  then  we  fished  until  time 
to  retire. 

Fish  were  always  abundant  and  of  many  varieties.  One 
kind  that  was  taken  frequently  and  that  was  excellent  eat- 
ing was  a  catfish,  weighing  up  to  twenty-eight  pounds,  of 
a  deep  brownish  color  with  wavy  bluish-gray  lines  running 
along  its  sides,  called  vagre  tigre;  another  species  of  cat- 
fish, frequently  of  a  weight  of  seventy-five  pounds  or  more, 
and  of  a  deep  slate  color,  was  not  uncommon;  there  was 
also  a  third  about  eighteen  inches  long,  with  a  large,  narrow 
head  and  "feelers"  as  long  as  the  body,  that  was  always  sure 
to  be  among  the  catch;  but  neither  of  the  two  last  named 
was  ever  eaten,  as  the  flesh  was  said  to  be  poisonous.  The 
crew  was  always  careful  to  clean  all  fish  immediately  and 
place  them  under  cover;  if  left  exposed  to  the  moonlight 
overnight  they  were  unfit  for  food. 

The  hoarse  cough  of  jaguars  was  heard  almost  nightly; 
it  was  the  season  when  great  numbers  of  turtles  left  the 
river  at  nightfall  to  deposit  their  eggs  in  the  sand-banks, 
and  the  jaguars  left  the  forest  at  dark  to  dig  up  and  feed 
on  these  eggs.  One  night,  just  as  the  boat  had  drawn  up 
to  the  high  sand-bank  preparatory  to  tying  up,  one  of  the 
huge  cats  was  discovered  sitting  ten  feet  above  us  quietly 
surveying  the  scene  on  deck;  there  was  a  rush  for  the  guns, 
but  when  they  were  secured  the  jaguar  had  disappeared. 
A  clear  sweep  of  loose  sand  with  a  low  bush  here  and  there 
stretched  back  a  mile  from  the  river  to  the  heavy  forest, 
and  in  the  brilliant  moonlight  it  was  easy  to  trace  the 
animal's  tracks  as  it  started  toward  cover.  Several  times 
its  shadowy  form  was  visible,  slinking  from  one  bush  to 
another  a  few  rods  away,  but  always  out  of  range;  after 
half  an  hour  the  tracks  were  lost  in  the  edge  of  the  forest. 
We  returned  to  the  ship.  Before  replacing  the  guns  in  the 


152  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

hatch  some  one  casually  broke  his,  which  action  led  to 
the  discovery  that  it  contained  no  shells;  neither  were  the 
others  loaded.  One  of  the  men  while  cleaning  them  that 
afternoon  had  removed  the  cartridges  and  failed  to  reload 
them.  Fortunately,  the  jaguar  is  not  quite  as  savage  as 
he  is  usually  pictured,  or  there  might  have  been  a  lively 
scene  on  the  playa. 

There  is  but  one  other  rapid  of  importance  in  the 
Orinoco  before  reaching  the  cataracts  of  Atures,  and  that 
is  San  Borja,  not  far  above  the  mouth  of  the  Meta.  Just 
above  this  narrow  stretch  of  seething  water  we  met  another 
boat  about  the  size  of  the  Hilo  de  Oro,  which  was  cruising 
back  and  forth  near  the  bank,  her  crew  directing  loud  shouts 
toward  the  forest  at  frequent  intervals.  Upon  inquiry 
we  found  that  one  of  the  men  had  gone  into  the  woods  to 
cut  a  pole;  the  other  members  of  the  crew  had  heard  him 
chopping,  as  he  had  not  entered  the  matted  vegetation 
more  than  fifty  feet;  suddenly  the  chopping  ceased,  but 
the  man  did  not  come  out;  although  they  had  searched 
far  and  near,  no  trace  of  him  had  been  found,  and  this  was 
the  fourth  day  after  his  disappearance.  The  supposition 
was  that  he  had  been  killed  and  carried  away  by  Indians. 

Perrico  was  formerly  the  port  of  call  for  sailing  craft  be- 
low Atures.  At  the  time  of  our  arrival  there  was  nothing 
whatever  there,  not  even  a  single  hut.  We  continued  up 
the  river  half  a  mile  to  a  place  called  Vagre;  here  we  found 
the  remains  of  two  palm-leaf  huts,  long  since  fallen  down 
and  overgrown  with  vegetation.  In  the  small  clearing  a 
few  cotton-stalks,  beans,  pawpaws,  and  castor-bean  bushes 
still  struggled  for  existence  with  the  invading  hosts  of 
creepers  and  second-growth  sprouts;  the  forest  was  rapidly 
reclaiming  its  own.  On  the  sandy  river-bank  were  the 
tracks  of  jaguars  and  caimans.  At  this  point  the  river 
is  divided  into  a  number  of  branches  by  islands,  and  the 
one  on  which  Vagre  was  situated  is  not  over  five  hundred 
feet  wide.  Beyond  this  point  a  boat  of  any  size  cannot 
proceed;  it  is  the  foot  of  the  series  of  cataracts,  six  miles 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO      153 

long,  known  as  the  rapids  of  Atures.  We  sent  a  man  over- 
land to  Zamuro  for  a  falca,  which  is  a  canoe  with  the  sides 
heightened  with  boards;  and  while  our  luggage  was  being 
rowed  up  the  swift  stream,  we  walked  near  the  bank. 

The  aneroid,  read  at  water-level,  gave  an  elevation  of 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet;  perhaps  this  is  somewhat  too 
high.  Between  Vagre  and  Zamuro  a  row  of  rounded,  black 
rocks  rise  to  a  height  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
the  river,  on  the  eastern  side.  Many  boulders  of  enormous 
proportions  lie  sprinkled  about  in  the  most  irregular  manner, 
as  far  as  we  could  see,  and  in  spots  there  are  outcroppings 
of  ledges  of  quartz.  The  tops  of  the  rounded  granite  hills 
are  hard  and  glazed,  so  that  they  glisten  in  the  sunlight  as 
if  covered  with  a  coating  of  ice.  There  are  but  a  few  stunted 
trees,  and  where  any  vegetation  can  get  a  foothold  tough, 
wiry  grass  grows;  this  is  the  home  of  many  rabbits  and 
rattlesnakes. 

Zamuro  we  found  to  consist  of  three  grass  huts  newly 
built  and  occupied  by  sick,  miserable  Venezuelan  families. 
The  heat  is  terrific,  and  mosquitoes  and  sand-flies  first  begin 
to  make  their  presence  known  in  considerable  numbers. 
The  river  scenery  is  really  magnificent;  huge  boulders  of 
fantastic  shape  strew  the  river-bed,  and  rear  their  heads 
high  above  the  seething  torrent;  against  them  the  water 
dashes  ceaselessly,  surging  and  swirling  in  mad  endeavors 
to  destroy  them,  only  to  be  baffled  by  the  immovable  sen- 
tinels and  hurled  back  again  to  collide  with  their  brethren 
equally  unrelenting  and  equally  impervious  to  the  roaring 
onslaught.  The  scene  is  awe-inspiring. 

The  next  step  was  to  secure  ox-carts  to  carry  the  im- 
pedimenta to  the  Rio  Catanapo,  three  miles  away,  and  this 
we  crossed  in  a  canoe,  landing  practically  at  Atures.  The 
governor  of  the  Upper  Orinoco,  General  Roberto  Pulido, 
made  Catanapo  his  home.  He  was  ordinarily  supposed  to 
reside  in  San  Fernando  de  Atabapo,  but  on  account  of  his 
arbitrary  methods  of  government  he  was  so  greatly  disliked 
that  he  decided  it  was  "healthier"  to  live  elsewhere. 


154  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  Catanapo  is  a  turbulent  stream  of  clear,  cold  water 
that  dashes  down  from  the  near-by  Cerro  Sipapo.  Not 
far  above  its  mouth  is  a  good-sized  village  of  Piaroas,  who 
come  down  occasionally  with  plantains,  pawpaws,  and  other 
fruits  which  they  exchange  for  cloth  and  sugar  at  Atures. 
When  the  Indians  come  down  they  apparently  bring  with 
them  numbers  of  freshly  killed  monkeys,  the  flesh  of  which 
is  greatly  esteemed  as  food.  We  saw  several  heaps  of  the 
charred  bones  near  frequently  used  camping-sites,  here 
as  well  as  at  Zamuro. 

The  clear  water  of  the  Catanapo  abounds  in  fish  which 
may  be  seen  twenty-five  feet  or  more  beneath  the  surface. 
Some  were  fully  two  feet  long  and  resembled  giant  black 
bass;  they  refused  to  be  tempted  with  meat  bait,  but  rushed 
greedily  for  bright-colored  objects  such  as  fruit  and  flowers; 
they  would  take  half  an  orange  at  a  gulp. 

Atures,  consisting  of  six  or  eight  mud  and  grass  huts, 
owes  its  existence  to  the  fact  that  the  governor  lives  on 
the  Catanapo  and  all  the  residents  are  his  employees.  For- 
merly the  town  was  larger  and  there  were  thirty  ox-carts 
plying  back  and  forth  across  the  portage;  but  the  governor 
promptly  selected  the  few  he  wanted  and  then  discouraged 
competition  in  such  a  manner  that  he  was  shortly  left  alone 
in  the  field.  To  us  he  was  most  cordial,  and  immediately 
placed  his  carts  at  our  disposal;  nor  did  he  examine  our 
luggage,  which  was  his  self-imposed  duty,  and  extract  any- 
thing that  suited  his  fancy. 

The  two  miles  from  Atures  to  Salvajito,  the  port  of  em- 
barkation above  Atures  Rapids,  were  covered  in  ox-carts 
which  lumbered  slowly  along  over  the  uneven  semiarid 
country.  Salvajito  was  only  a  small  cleared  space  in  the 
forest  fringing  the  river. 

The  next  step  of  the  journey  was  to  traverse  the  forty 
miles  of  river  between  Atures  and  the  second  great  cataract 
at  Maipures.  Only  a  small  canoe  was  available,  so  leav- 
ing my  assistant  and  a  number  of  the  men  to  guard  the 
left-over  luggage,  I  started  with  three  paddlers.  The  canoe 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO     155 

was  only  eighteen  feet  long,  with  about  two  inches  of  free- 
board, but  fortune  favored  us  and  after  two  days  we  reached 
the  mouth  of  the  Tuparo.  The  first  night  out  had  been 
spent  on  a  laja,  or  shelf  of  rock  which  extends  over  the 
water;  the  men  set  the  dry  vegetation  in  back  of  the  camp 
afire  in  order  to  keep  away  jaguars,  and  built  a  fence  of 
brands  along  the  outer  edge  of  the  rock  to  frighten  off  the 
crocodiles.  The  second  night  was  spent  on  a  large  sand- 
bank just  below  the  rapid  of  Guajibo.  In  approaching 
this  site  the  canoe  had  been  caught  in  a  sudden  hurricane 
and  swamped  before  land  could  be  reached;  but  fortunately 
we  had  gained  shallow  water,  so  nothing  was  lost.  On  this 
sand-bar  lived  three  species  of  terns,  one  of  very  small  size 
that  came  in  immense  flocks  after  nightfall  and,  dropping 
on  the  sand,  immediately  disappeared  from  view;  also  num- 
bers of  yellow-legs  and  a  few  gulls.  The  wind  blew  steadily 
all  night,  so  that  by  morning  everything  and  every  one  was 
half  buried  in  the  loose  sand. 

The  rapid  of  Guajibo  is  one  of  the  most  treacherous  in 
the  whole  Orinoco.  Each  year  the  rubber-gatherers  pay 
heavy  toll  in  lives  while  traversing  this  notorious  spot.  A 
great  horseshoe-shaped  ledge  of  rock  extends  across  practi- 
cally the  entire  river,  and  over  this  the  water  rushes  at 
great  speed;  below  is  a  series  of  scattered  rocks  extending 
for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  forming  a  raging,  roaring  gorge. 
We  portaged  around  the  spot,  although  the  country  is  very 
difficult,  owing  to  the  many  high  rocks  and  the  deep  crev- 
ices between  them.  An  acquaintance  who  had  just  passed 
attempted  to  have  his  men  drag  their  boat  through,  with 
the  result  that  they  lost  the  canoe  and  three  men.  Shortly 
after  a  large  piragua  coming  from  up-river  attempted  to 
run  the  rapids  to  save  time;  seven  of  the  crew,  as  well  as 
the  owner  of  the  outfit,  paid  for  their  folly  with  their  lives, 
and  the  entire  cargo  of  rubber,  together  with  the  boat,  was 
lost.  A  few  days  later  another  party  wrecked  their  canoe 
and  lost  two  men.  These  are  all  cases  which  came  under 
our  notice,  and  I  was  told  of  many  others. 


156  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  port  of  Maipures  is  on  the  Rio  Tuparo,  about  half  a 
mile  above  its  mouth.  This  river,  some  two  hundred  yards 
wide,  comes  rushing  out  of  the  interior  of  Colombia  down  a 
rocky  river-bed.  Where  the  landing  was  effected  we  found 
only  the  parched  plain,  a  trail  leading  away  from  the  river 
to  the  settlement  of  Maipures,  a  good  three  miles  away. 
We  pitched  camp  near  the  water,  and  the  canoe  and  two 
men  were  immediately  sent  back  for  another  load  of  the 
equipment.  There  was  not  much  life  along  this  part  of  the 
river.  Numerous  iguanas  spent  the  hot  hours  burrowing 
in  the  sand,  and  if  disturbed  either  ran  away  in  the  brush 
or  plunged  into  the  water.  Both  green  and  blue  kingfishers 
clattered  noisily  on  the  opposite  side,  and  a  few  large  gray 
herons  flapped  up  and  down  over  the  centre  of  the  stream. 
We  could  constantly  hear  the  loud  roar  of  the  Maipures 
Rapids,  and  the  water  rushing  down  the  course  of  the  main 
river  was  covered  with  foam. 

Five  days  after  our  arrival  the  second  load,  in  charge  of 
my  assistant,  arrived.  They  had  met  with  a  mishap  in  the 
rapid  of  Guajibo,  and  one  man  and  the  canoe  were  lost. 
For  nearly  two  days  they  had  been  stranded  on  an  island 
and  besieged  by  a  party  of  Indians  from  the  Sipapo;  the 
occupants  of  a  passing  canoe,  seeing  their  plight,  came  to 
the  rescue,  and  brought  them  on  to  the  Tuparo.  While  the 
borrowed  canoe  returned  for  the  remaining  members  of  the 
party,  we  busied  ourselves  transferring  camp  to  Maipures, 
above  the  head  of  the  rapids.  The  intervening  country  is 
level  and  covered  with  a  sparse  growth  of  clumps  of  wiry 
grass  and  patches  of  low  woods;  near  the  watercourse  the 
trees  are  taller  and  the  vegetation  more  dense.  The  town, 
consisting  of  six  adobe  houses  with  thatched  roofs,  nestles 
in  a  little  grove  of  mango  and  tonca-bean  trees,  and  from  a 
short  distance  away  is  very  picturesque;  but  like  all  the 
rest  of  the  plain  it  is  insufferably  hot  and  the  myriads  of 
sand-flies  quivering  like  heat-waves  in  the  air  make  life 
almost  unbearable. 

While  waiting  for  a  boat  of  ample  size  to  take  us  up  the 


The  village  of  Maipures. 


The  Hilo  de  Oro  at  the  end  of  the  voyage. 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO      157 

river  to  San  Fernando  de  Atabapo,  we  had  time  to  explore 
the  surrounding  country  and  to  visit  the  rapids,  three  in 
number,  which  obstruct  the  river.  The  woods  are  wonder- 
ful beyond  description;  most  of  the  trees  are  gnarled  and 
low,  as  if  grown  under  the  guiding  hand  of  a  skilful  Japa- 
nese gardener,  and  have  the  appearance  of  being  hundreds 
of  years  old.  Stunted  spiny  palms  rear  their  crowns  here 
and  there,  and  an  occasional  tangle  of  red-flowered  creepers 
forms  an  umbrella-like  mass  on  the  tip  of  some  slender, 
dead  stub.  The  ground  is  sprinkled  with  rocks  of  fantastic 
shapes,  and  some  are  of  enormous  size,  rising  in  needle-like, 
fluted  columns,  or  as  the  crumbling  tiers  of  massive  walls 
amid  the  curiously  distorted  vegetation.  Along  the  river 
are  other  masses  of  rock,  but  of  an  entirely  different  forma- 
tion; we  saw  caves  and  grottos,  and  ledges  honeycombed 
with  hundreds  of  pot-holes  exposed  by  the  low  water. 

Beyond  the  woods  are  large  areas  of  cacti,  pineapples, 
and  low,  thorny  bushes,  springing  from  crevices  in  the 
granite  ledges.  Bird  life  is  abundant  and  varied.  Quail 
and  red-breasted  meadow-larks  occupy  the  open  country, 
as  well  as  a  species  of  the  much-sought  tinamou;  but  a  bird 
that  proved  to  be  the  most  interesting  was  a  small,  obscure 
individual  called  nunlet  or  swallow-wing.  All  day  long  the 
little  creature,  about  the  size  of  a  king-bird,  black  above 
and  gray  below,  with  a  saffron  band  across  the  throat,  sits 
on  the  top  of  some  dead  tree,  seemingly  asleep;  but  let  a 
fly  or  an  insect  of  almost  any  kind  pass  along  and  the  bird 
immediately  becomes  charged  with  activity  and  darts  into 
the  air  in  hot  pursuit,  catches  its  victim,  and  returns  to  its 
perch  with  graceful  flits  of  the  wings.  It  remains  on  the 
same  twigs  for  hours,  and  usually  returns  day  after  day. 
If  a  stick  is  thrown  at  it  the  little  creature  flies  away  and 
comes  back  again  and  again.  But  stupid  as  the  bird  ap- 
pears to  be,  it  is  nevertheless  a  skilful  architect.  I  have 
seen  them  dig  perfectly  round  holes  deep  into  a  bank  of 
sand  so  loose  that  the  whole  mass  would  crumble  at  my 
touch;  while  one  bird  digs  with  much  scratching  and  work- 


158  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

ing  of  wings,  the  mate  sits  on  a  branch  near  by  and  gives  a 
twitter  of  alarm  upon  the  approach  of  danger.  Some  mem- 
bers of  the  family  build  a  huge  pile  of  twigs  on  the  entrance 
to  their  burrow  to  hide  it.  At  the  end  of  the  tunnel,  a  foot 
or  two  back,  the  snow-white  eggs  are  laid  upon  a  thin  layer 
of  straw  and  feathers. 

The  highest  falls  in  the  river  are  known  as  Carretia,  and 
are  supposed  to  be  about  thirty  feet  high;  they  block  the 
eastern  channel  of  the  river,  here  divided  into  two  branches 
by  the  immense  Isla  de  Raton.  In  the  western  arm  the 
Raudal  del  Conejo  and  Raudal  Saltinero  effectively  block 
this  watercourse  to  navigation.  It  is  said  that  the  Span- 
iards built  a  road  from  Atures  to  the  foot  of  the  Cerro  Si- 
papo  above  the  falls  of  Carretia,  and  that  the  Indians  still 
follow  this  route  occasionally.  If  true,  this  was  doubtless 
a  great  convenience,  as  it  did  away  with  the  necessity  of 
navigating  some  fifty-odd  miles  of  the  most  difficult  and 
dangerous  waterway  of  the  entire  river. 

A  large  boat  called  piragua  was  obtained  at  Maipures, 
and  in  this  the  expedition  travelled  to  San  Fernando  de 
Atabapo  in  six  days'  time.  The  river  is  dotted  with  a  num- 
ber of  islands,  the  largest  being  the  great  Isla  de  Raton, 
all  heavily  forested;  the  current  is  frequently  so  strong 
that  no  headway  could  be  made  either  by  rowing  or  poling 
the  heavy  boat.  At  such  times  a  thick  cable  of  the  braided 
fibre  of  a  palm  called  chiquechique  had  to  be  requisitioned, 
and  everybody  walked  on  the  bank,  dragging  the  boat 
slowly  along.  The  very  first  day  the  man  in  the  lead  ran 
into  a  bushmaster  fully  eight  feet  long,  and  narrowly 
escaped  the  vicious  thrust  of  the  deadly  reptile;  a  charge 
of  shot  soon  put  an  end  to  the  creature's  menacing  career, 
but  the  men  jumped  into  the  boat  and  did  not  want  us  to 
take  along  the  dead  snake,  or  they  said  its  mate  would  be 
sure  to  follow  and  inflict  a  terrible  revenge  for  the  loss  of 
its  companion;  this  kind  of  superstition  is  very  common 
among  the  natives  on  the  Orinoco.  Few  of  them  would 
dare  shoot  a  jaguar,  as  they  firmly  believe  that  for  every 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO      159 

one  slain  a  member  of  their  own  family  would  be  carried 
away  by  one  of  the  huge  spotted  cats. 

The  country  on  the  Colombian  side,  from  below  Atures 
onward,  is  level  llano,  covered  with  a  good  growth  of  grass, 
and  with  an  abundance  of  water.  Some  day,  no  doubt, 
and  in  the  near  future,  numerous  herds  of  cattle  will  graze 
in  the  rich  pasturage  awaiting  them,  and  another  source 
will  be  added  to  the  world's  limited  supply  of  meat.  A 
fringe  of  trees  grows  along  the  river;  among  them  are  the 
valuable  "cachicamo"  and  "cedro,"  the  trunks  of  which 
are  frequently  fashioned  into  canoes  by  the  natives. 

The  Vichada,  at  this  season,  had  dwindled  down  until  at 
its  mouth  it  was  not  more  than  a  hundred  yards  wide.  We 
could  see  a  range  of  hills  far  to  the  west,  dimly  outlined 
against  the  sky  and  finally  fading  into  obscurity  in  the 
haze;  in  this  direction  the  river  has  its  origin.  Several 
Piaroa  families  had  settled  near  the  junction  of  the  two 
rivers  and  built  a  large  hut  of  palm-leaves  and  grass.  The 
men  lounged  in  their  hammocks  all  day  long,  drinking  rum 
and  fighting  the  clouds  of  sand-flies  which  feasted  on  their 
half-naked  bodies;  at  night  they  crossed  to  one  of  the  nu- 
merous sand-banks  and  collected  basketsful  of  turtle  eggs 
and  also  as  many  turtles  as  their  canoes  would  hold.  Some 
of  their  canoes  were  mere  shells,  so  small  that  we  could 
never  learn  how  to  negotiate  them;  no  matter  how  quietly 
we  sat  they  upset  as  soon  as  pushed  out  into  the  current, 
but  an  Indian  or  even  two  would  calmly  squat  down  in 
the  bottom,  take  up  their  paddles,  and  glide  away  without 
the  least  concern. 

The  women  were  making  cassava  bread;  after  the  tubers 
(Manihot  utilissimd)  are  ground  and  the  juice  has  been 
extracted  a  thin  layer  of  the  coarse  meal  is  spread  on  the 
bottom  of  a  shallow  pan  about  three  feet  in  diameter;  the 
heat  causes  the  particles  to  adhere,  forming  a  tough,  round 
wafer  which  can  be  turned  without  breaking;  it  is  thoroughly 
baked  on  both  sides.  When  cold  it  hardens,  and  the  huge 
slabs  are  then  done  up  in  bundles  of  twenty  to  forty  each, 


160  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

tied  up  in  plantain  leaves,  and  in  this  way  it  can  be  kept 
indefinitely.  This  is  the  bread  of  the  Orinoco,  and  is  al- 
ways carried  as  the  main  article  of  provision  by  Indians 
and  travellers  alike;  when  needed  pieces  are  broken  off, 
dipped  in  the  river  to  soak  a  few  minutes  and  then  eaten. 
While  not  particularly  appetizing,  the  slightly  acid  flavor 
is  not  unpleasant,  and  if  there  is  time  to  freshly  toast  it 
just  before  using  it  is  really  quite  palatable.  Another  arti- 
cle commonly  prepared  by  the  Piaroas  is  the  bark  of  a  cer- 
tain tree,  called  "tabari."  Long,  narrow  strips  are  cut 
from  the  trees  and  alternately  soaked  in  water  and  beaten 
between  rocks  until  the  thin  layers  separate  into  tissue-like 
sheets;  these  are  used  in  rolling  cigarettes. 

One  of  the  granite  ledges  flanking  the  river  just  above 
the  Piaroa  dwelling  bears  on  its  surface  a  number  of  curious 
figures,  carved  in  the  face  of  the  rock;  unfortunately  the 
water  was  so  low  that  we  passed  far  beneath  them,  and  I 
was  unable  to  make  out  just  what  they  were;  but  the  canoe- 
men  who  had  seen  them  a  number  of  times  said  they  were 
figures  of  men  and  date  back  to  prehistoric  times. 

The  country  now  rapidly  grows  wilder;  tall  forest  re- 
places llanos  or  scattered  growth,  and  the  camps  of  rubber- 
collectors  dot  the  river-banks.  One  afternoon,  as  we  poled 
quietly  along,  we  came  upon  a  huge  anaconda  coiled  up  on 
a  sand-bank;  all  about  were  iguanas  three  or  four  feet  long, 
digging  nesting  burrows  in  the  loose  sand.  The  snake  had 
just  caught  one  of  the  big  lizards  and  was  crushing  it  into  a 
limp  mass,  but  the  others  paid  not  the  slightest  attention 
to  the  tragedy  which  was  being  enacted  in  their  midst,  and 
ran  about  or  worked  but  a  few  feet  away.  When  we  ap- 
proached to  within  twenty  feet  the  anaconda  dropped  its 
victim  and  flung  itself  into  the  water;  some  of  the  iguanas 
followed  it,  and  others  scampered  away  over  the  sand. 

That  night  we  reached  the  low,  sandy  island  of  Tanaja 
and,  ascending  one  of  the  branches  of  the  river,  made  camp 
on  the  rocky  mainland.  The  water  was  sluggish  and  shal- 
low, so  that  we  could  easily  see  the  muddy  bottom  six  or 


FIFTEEN  HUNDRED  MILES  ON  THE  ORINOCO      161 

eight  feet  below.  As  the  boat  moved  slowly  along  we  be- 
came aware  of  masses  of  black;  flitting  shadows  under- 
neath, and  soon  made  out  vast  shoals  of  fish  of  various  sizes 
that  literally  covered  the  bottom.  There  were  rays,  elec- 
tric eels,  catfish,  and  piranhas  by  the  thousands,  besides 
many  others  which  we  could  not  identify;  the  reason  for 
their  congregating  in  this  shallow  place  is  hard  to  guess. 

The  boulders  on  the  bank  were  dotted  with  what  we  at 
first  took  to  be  lichens;  but  examination  showed  them  to 
be  night-hawks  (Chordeiles  rupestris)  of  a  light  gray  color, 
which  clung  to  the  rounded  tops  silent  and  immovable,  as 
if  carved  out  of  stone.  When  we  paddled  across  to  the 
island  a  short  while  after,  we  found  scores  of  others,  but 
these  were  the  females  squatting  on  one  or  two  fragile 
speckled  eggs  which  had  been  laid  in  shallow  hollows  scooped 
out  of  the  warm  sand.  They  were  very  tame  and  permit- 
ted me  to  walk  up  to  within  a  few  feet  of  them;  then  they 
took  wing  and  with  noiseless,  graceful  flaps  flew  a  short 
distance  away  and  dropped  back  on  the  sand. 

Flocks  of  red-and-blue  macaws  flew  screaming  across  the 
river  in  quest  of  some  favorite  tree  in  which  to  spend  the 
night,  far  in  the  depths  of  the  forest;  after  them  trailed 
parrots  of  various  sizes  and  colors,  always  flying  two  by  two. 
Herons  flapped  lazily  up-stream,  and  snake-birds  perched  on 
snags  looked  down  at  the  masses  of  fish  below,  apparently 
regretting  their  limited  capacity  for  eating.  Exciting  as 
this  naturally  must  be  to  a  field-naturalist,  it  was  but  a  fore- 
taste of  what  we  were  to  find  each  day  farther  up  the  river. 

As  the  morning  of  January  24  sped  by,  the  water  of  the 
Orinoco  began  to  assume  a  dark  color,  and  by  four  o'clock 
that  afternoon  we  had  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Atabapo; 
an  hour  and  a  half  later  we  had  ascended  the  clear  red 
water  of  that  river  for  a  distance  of  three  miles,  and  tied 
the  piragua  to  the  ledge  below  San  Fernando. 

San  Fernando  de  Atabapo  is  the  last  settlement  on  the 
Orinoco  and  was  the  base  from  which  we  hoped  to  make 
our  dash  to  the  unexplored  regions  about  Mount  Duida. 


CHAPTER  XI 
THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  AND  THE  UPPER  ORINOCO 

SAN  FERNANDO,  on  the  Atabapo,  consists  of  about  fifty 
adobe  huts  of  the  usual  type,  and  at  the  time  of  our  arrival 
was  all  but  deserted.  Almost  the  entire  population  had 
gone  up-river  to  the  scattered  rubber-camps,  as  this  was 
the  season  for  collecting  the  valuable  latex. 

The  town  is  situated  on  the  Atabapo,  where  this  river 
and  the  Guaviare  unite,  and  its  elevation  above  sea-level  is 
three  hundred  and  seventy  feet.  The  mean  temperature  is 
about  80°  F.,  although  in  the  sun  the  mercury  ascends  to 
112°  F.  or  more,  but  the  place  is  not  particularly  unhealthful. 

The  water  of  the  Guaviare  is  muddy,  while  that  of  the 
Atabapo  is  of  a  clear  red  color  and  unfit  for  drinking. 
There  are  few  fish,  no  crocodiles  or  sand-flies,  and  practi- 
cally no  mosquitoes,  all  of  which  is  attributed  to  the  dis- 
colored water.  Two  small  springs  near  the  town  furnish 
an  abundant  supply  of  potable  water,  and  when  during  the 
rainy  season  these  are  covered  with  the  overflow  from  the 
river  it  is  necessary  to  paddle  across  and  fill  the  water-jars 
from  the  Guaviare. 

To  secure  a  crew  of  men  for  our  trip  up  the  river  was  a 
difficult  undertaking  and  required  a  great  deal  of  time. 
This  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  exploring  the  surrounding 
country. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  San  Fernando  the  forest  has 
been  cut  down  and  tall  second-growth  sprouts  form  dense 
thickets;  this  is  a  favorite  resort  of  many  small  birds,  and 
several  species  of  night-hawks  make  it  a  daytime  rendez- 
vous. The  basic  granite  crops  out  in  many  places,  the 
strata  occasionally  standing  on  end,  and  it  is  often  streaked 
with  narrow  seams  of  quartz.  There  is  no  cultivation  of 

162 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  163 

any  kind;  the  inhabitants  lack  all  initiative  for  work  and 
eat  tinned  foods  and  mandioc  received  in  exchange  for 
trinkets  from  the  Indians. 

When  we  returned  a  few  months  later  a  changed  town 
confronted  us.  The  rubber-collectors  had  returned  from 
their  several  months  isolation  in  the  interior,  and  were 
spending  the  fruits  of  their  labor  as  rapidly  as  possible. 
Dance-halls,  gaming-dens,  and  almost  every  conceivable 
device  for  relieving  men  of  their  money  had  sprung  up  like 
mushrooms,  and  there  was  drinking  and  merrymaking  day 
and  night.  Then  suddenly,  and  without  presage,  a  tragedy 
occurred;  it  will  never  be  forgotten  by  the  few  who  survived. 

Governor  Pulido,  so  it  was  rumored,  had  imposed  a  new 
tax  on  all  rubber  collected  in  the  district,  and  had  come  to 
San  Fernando  to  personally  collect  the  extortion.  Natu- 
rally, there  was  a  good  deal  of  dissatisfaction,  and  one  night, 
just  after  we  had  been  provided  with  a  canoe  and  secretly 
advised  to  leave  as  soon  as  possible,  the  storm  broke.  A 
band  of  men,  said  to  be  under  the  leadership  of  one  Colonel 
Funes,  an  Indian  and  the  most  notorious  man  in  the  dis- 
trict, attacked  the  town,  killed  the  governor,  and  practi- 
cally the  entire  male  population,  and  rifled  the  shops  and 
dwellings.  If  one  may  believe  the  tales  of  the  few  who 
escaped  the  brutalities  committed  that  night,  the  deeds 
rival  those  of  the  most  barbaric  ages. 

Perhaps  some  of  those  who  perished  deserved  their  fate, 
others  assuredly  did  not;  but  it  is  a  fact  that  government 
offices  had  been  conducted  abominably.  In  the  post-office, 
for  example,  stamps  were  sold  for  twice  their  face  value, 
and  if  one  did  not  purchase  them  there  and  place  them  on 
the  letters  in  full  view  of  the  postmaster,  the  mail  was  de- 
stroyed. A  physician  who  chanced  to  be  there,  named  La 
Page,  and  who  apparently  belonged  to  the  military  or- 
ganization as  he  wore  the  regulation  uniform,  tried  to  collect 
over  four  hundred  dollars  gold  for  a  few  injections  of  quinine; 
and  so  the  robbery  went  on  until  the  whole  band  was  ex- 
terminated. 


164  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Having  engaged  a  captain  with  some  experience  on  the 
Upper  Orinoco,  and  a  crew,  we  on  February  3  loaded  the 
low  batelao  and  started  on  our  mission,  reaching  a  point 
called  Puerto  Ti  Ti  that  night;  from  this  spot  a  wide  trail 
leads  through  the  magnificent  forest  to  the  clearing  wherein 
stands  San  Fernando. 

For  six  days  we  made  slow  but  steady  progress  up  the 
river,  and  then  entered  the  formidable  Randal  de  Santa 
Barbara,  which  extends  across  the  entire  delta  of  the  Ven- 
tuari. 

The  Orinoco  is  wide  but  with  few  exceptions  so  shallow 
that  we  pushed  along  with  long  poles.  Where  the  water 
was  deep  and  the  current  swift,  long-handled  hooks  were 
used  to  catch  the  overhanging  vegetation  and  pull  the  boat 
along.  This  latter  mode  of  travel  was  always  slow  and 
dangerous  and  the  swarms  of  wasps  and  other  insects  living 
among  the  leaves,  and  shaken  down,  were  far  from  being 
agreeable  travelling  companions.  The  banks  were  covered 
with  dense,  virgin  forest;  but  there  were  extensive  sand- 
banks and  flat  ledges  of  rock  at  convenient  intervals,  and 
one  of  these  was  always  chosen  for  a  night's  camping-site. 
If  we  chanced  to  be  on  a  playa,  the  early  hours  of  the  eve- 
ning were  spent  in  fishing.  Armed  with  machetes,  a  bag, 
and  acetylene-lamps,  we  waded  out  in  the  shallow  water 
and  "shined"  the  shoals  of  fish  much  in  the  manner  that 
frogs  are  caught  in  parts  of  this  country.  At  night  the  fish 
swam  near  the  surface,  and  by  directing  the  rays  of  the 
strong  white  light  upon  them  one  could  approach  to  with- 
in a  short  distance  and  then  strike  with  the  knife:  in  this 
manner  large  numbers  were  taken.  Occasionally  a  sting- 
ray, electric  eel,  or  crocodile  was  suddenly  encountered  and 
then  there  ensued  a  hurried  scramble  in  the  other  direc- 
tion; this  gave  the  pastime  a  decided  element  of  sport. 
We  also  became  more  familiar  with  the  dreaded  caribe  or 
cannibal  fish,  known  as  the  piranha  in  Brazil,  with  which 
the  water  teemed.  In  the  Orinoco  they  attain  a  weight  ex- 
ceeding three  pounds  and  are  formidable  indeed.  The  na- 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  165 

lives  wiD  not  go  in  bathing  except  in  very  shallow  watfer,  and 
I  know  of  two  instances  where  men  were  attacked  and  se- 
verely bitten  before  they  could  escape.  The  fish  somewhat 
resembles  a  bass  in  shape,  although  the  mouth  is  smaller; 
the  jaws  are  armed  with  triangular,  razor-edged  teeth;  and 
as  they  travel  in  immense  shoals  they  are  capable  of  easily 
devouring  a  man  or  large  animal  if  caught  in  deep  water. 
Floundering  or  splashing  in  the  water  attracts  them,  but 
they  seldom  attack  unless  their  appetite  has  been  whetted 
by  a  taste  of  blood;  and  then  woe  to  the  unfortunate  crea- 
ture which  falls  into  their  power.  To  catch  them,  we  used 
a  large  hook  secured  to  a  long  wire  leader  and  baited  with 
any  kind  of  raw  meat,  and  they  always  put  up  a  good  fight. 
Without  a  wire,  a  line  would  be  bitten  in  two  every  time 
a  fish  struck.  When  taken  from  the  water  they  are  first 
killed  by  a  blow  on  the  head  with  the  machete,  and  then 
removed  from  the  hook. 

At  night  there  was  always  a  heavy  dew,  and  it  rained 
intermittently  each  day.  On  dark  nights,  and  often  after 
a  shower,  the  banks  of  the  river  where  there  was  forest 
glowed  with  twinkling  phosphorescence.  Examination 
showed  that  the  decaying  vegetation  was  filled  with  myriads 
of  small,  wriggling  insects,  greatly  resembling  our  well- 
known  cellar-bug  (Isopod),  and  one  day  we  paddled  for 
many  hours  through  a  mass  of  flying  ants  which  had  come 
to  grief  in  the  river.  The  water  was  covered  with  them 
and  the  waves  had  tossed  them  up  on  the  banks  to  a  depth 
of  several  inches.  Another  thing  that  attracted  our  at- 
tention was  the  large  number  of  bats.  On  one  occasion  we 
heard  a  dull  rumbling  among  the  granite  ledges  near  camp, 
and  not  long  after  a  stream  of  bats  began  to  emerge  from 
the  cracks;  from  a  distance  they  resembled  a  cloud  of  smoke. 
There  must  have  been  many  thousands,  for  the  black  masses 
continued  to  rise  until  darkness  obscured  them  from  our 
view.  Spruce  records  that  on  one  occasion  he  saw  not  less 
than  a  million  under  similar  circumstances.  This  brings 
up  an  interesting  problem.  The  individual  range  of  these 


166  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

bats  is  probably  not  very  great,  the  result  of  which  is  that 
immense  numbers  of  them  are  distributed  over  a  compara- 
tively small  area.  Now,  if  the  struggle  for  existence  is  as 
keen  as  is  often  supposed,  how  can  the  female,  encumbered 
with  her  offspring  fully  three-fourths  as  large  as  herself, 
compete  successfully  with  the  unhampered  males,  and  secure 
enough  food  not  only  for  herself  but  also  for  her  young? 
The  fruit-eating  varieties  might  not  suffer  seriously  from 
this  handicap,  but  it  does  seem  as  if  the  agility  of  the  in- 
sectivorous kinds  catching  their  food  on  the  wing  would 
be  greatly  affected. 

There  are  numbers  of  curious  formations  along  the  river 
which  cannot  fail  to  attract  the  interest  of  the  traveller, 
no  matter  what  his  particular  mission  might  be.  One  of 
these  is  the  Cerro  Yapacana,  a  square  block  of  granite  not 
over  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  high;  it  is  a  very 
conspicuous  landmark  as  it  towers  above  the  forest  like  a 
giant  monument,  and  can  be  seen  many  miles  away.  We 
did  not  come  abreast  of  it  until  eight  days  after  first  sight- 
ing it. 

There  are  few  rubber-camps  along  this  part  of  the  river, 
but  several  Indian  families  had  come  to  spend  some  weeks 
collecting  turtles  and  eggs  on  the  sand-banks.  At  night 
absolute  quiet  reigned  on  the  play  as  so  long  as  the  moon 
shone;  but  no  sooner  had  the  brilliant  orb  disappeared 
below  the  horizon  than  the  water  was  broken  with  ripples 
as  numbers  of  turtles  emerged  to  deposit  their  eggs  in  the 
loose,  warm  sand,  and  jaguars  came  from  the  dark  forest 
to  feast  on  the  defenseless  creatures  and  rend  the  still 
night  air  with  ugly  coughs  and  grunts. 

In  returning  from  fishing  excursions  we  usually  cut  across 
the  several  miles  of  sandy  waste  toward  camp,  guided  by 
the  bright  fire  which  the  cook  was  required  to  keep  burn- 
ing, and  in  this  way  learned  a  good  deal  about  the  turtle's 
habits.  After  leaving  the  water  the  creature  wends  its 
way  toward  the  highest  point  on  the  island  or  playa,  and 
with  a  few  powerful  strokes  of  the  flippers  excavates  a  deep 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  167 

hole;  the  eggs,  twenty  to  a  hundred  in  number,  are  then 
deposited,  after  which  the  sand  is  scooped  back  into  place 
and  patted  down  so  carefully  that  it  takes  a  very  experi- 
enced eye  to  locate  the  spot.  The  turtle  then  hurries 
back  to  the  water,  where  it  apparently  remains  until  the 
following  year.  When  the  eggs,  warmed  by  the  sun's 
rays,  finally  hatch,  the  playas  swarm  with  small  turtles 
which  are  eagerly  collected  by  the  natives,  boiled  entire  and 
eaten.  The  egg  contains  a  great  deal  of  oil,  and  although 
cooked  a  long  time  always  remains  soft.  Iguana  eggs  are 
taken,  also,  and  boiled  and  eaten,  even  when  about  to 
hatch. 

Besides  the  turtles  there  were  many  other  signs  of  life 
on  the  sand-banks.  Water-birds,  squatting  low  in  some 
cup-shaped  hollow,  looked  stupidly  at  the  dazzling  light  of 
the  gas-lamps,  and  could  be  approached  to  within  a  few 
feet;  downy  young  birds  waited  quietly  until  nearly  touched 
with  the  hand  and  then  ran  away  into  the  darkness,  like 
puffballs  rolling  before  a  breeze. 

The  Randal  de  Santa  Barbara  is  a  wicked  stretch  of 
water.  The  Ventuari,  coming  from  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Brazilian  border,  forms  an  extensive  delta  near  its 
mouth.  There  are  many  islands,  some  of  great  size,  and 
all  heavily  forested.  The  Orinoco  is  very  wide,  and  hun- 
dreds of  sharp,  tall  rocks  protrude  above  the  water,  causing 
a  series  of  rapids  which  are  hard  to  ascend.  It  took  us 
three  days  of  the  most  trying  kind  of  work  to  traverse  this 
stretch  of  agitated  water,  and  finally  to  haul  the  boat  up 
the  falls,  which  come  as  a  sort  of  climax  at  the  end.  A 
strong  wind  blows  from  the  north  almost  constantly,  whip- 
ping the  water  into  a  choppy  sea.  On  the  bank  stands  a 
good-sized  rubber-camp,  and  extra  hands  can  usually  be 
secured  to  help  pull  the  boat  through  the  rapids.  The  men 
from  this  place  had  just  returned  from  a  hunt  in  the  forest, 
bringing  two  jaguars  and  an  armadillo  weighing  sixty-five 
pounds.  One  of  the  jaguars  was  black.  All  of  these  ani- 
mals were  eaten,  and  of  the  two  species  the  flesh  of  the 


168  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

jaguars  was  the  better.  One  night,  not  long  after,  one  of 
these  animals  invaded  our  camp.  As  the  sand-bank  we 
had  selected  was  a  narrow  one,  the  crew  chose  to  sleep  on 
the  forest  side;  they  greatly  feared  the  crocodiles  in  the 
river.  Early  in  the  morning  I  was  awakened  by  a  jaguar's 
roaring  mingled  with  frightened  wails,  and  upon  investiga- 
tion discovered  that  the  men  had  come  to  our  part  of  the 
camp  near  the  water,  leaving  the  captain's  wife  in  their 
former  location.  They  had  reasoned  that  she  was  the  least 
useful  member  of  the  party  and  had  compelled  her  to  re- 
main as  "bait."  Maria  was  sent  back  to  San  Fernando  in 
the  next  canoe  we  met  bound  down  the  river. 

The  abundance  of  the  big,  spotted  cats  and  their  harm- 
lessness  under  ordinary  circumstances  is  astonishing,  al- 
though at  times  they  will  attack  human  beings.  At 
one  of  the  rubber-camps  we  were  shown  the  skin  of  a 
recently  killed  animal  which  had  stalked  a  two-year-old 
child  at  play  not  far  from  the  hut;  the  mother,  a  negress, 
seeing  the  animal  in  time,  attacked  it  with  a  machete  and 
killed  it. 

The  next  river  of  any  importance  to  be  encountered  was 
the  Rio  Lao,  reached  February  17.  Up  to  this  time  the 
strong  north  wind  had  continued  to  blow  without  interrup- 
tion, and  the  course  of  the  river  was  dotted  with  islands. 
Rubber-camps  were  situated  on  the  river-bank,  and  we  had 
our  first  glimpses  of  the  Maquiritare  Indians.  Owing  to 
the  frequent  rains,  the  year  had  been  a  bad  one  for  the  pa- 
troneSj  or  managers  of  the  camps;  also,  a  kind  of  malady 
had  broken  out  among  the  peons  and  Indians  which  killed 
many  and  frightened  others  away.  Nevertheless,  those 
who  remained  seemed  quite  contented,  and  if  we  chanced 
to  spend  the  night  at  a  camp  or  barraca,  our  men  always 
joined  them  in  their  pastime  of  drinking,  playing  the  guitar, 
and  singing  songs  about  one  another,  far  into  the  night. 
Some  of  the  men  were  clever  at  improvising  songs  apropos 
of  the  occasion.  At  one  place,  for  instance,  they  heard  of 
the  jaguar's  visit  to  the  sand-bank,  and  that  the  captain's 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  169 

wife  had  been  sent  back  to  San  Fernando.    Without  hesi- 
tation one  of  the  peons  sang: 

Que  tristeza  en  nuestro  campamento, 

Pobrecito  lldefonso  estd  llorando, 

A  caramba,  nadie  estd  alegre, 

Sera  porque  Maria  fue  a  San  Fernando. 

The  largest  barraca  by  far  which  we  saw  was  owned  by 
an  old  Turk  named  Parraquete.  He  received  us  cordially, 
shook  our  hands,  and  embraced  us,  apologetically  explain- 
ing that  a  slight  fever  prevented  his  rising  from  the  ham- 
mock; later  we  found  out  that  he  was  a  leper  in  the  last 
stages  of  the  disease.  He  had  fifteen  Maquiritares  in  his 
employ,  each  of  whom  collected  the  latex  from  several 
hundred  rubber-trees  every  morning;  in  the  afternoon  the 
milk  was  smoked,  one  hundred  pounds  of  the  liquid  yield- 
ing about  forty  or  fifty  pounds  of  crude  rubber.  A  species 
of  heavy,  deep-red  wood  called  mazarandul  was  used  to  pro- 
duce the  dense  smoke  necessary  to  coagulate  the  latex. 
Hevea  only  was  gathered  here,  although  balata  was  also 
collected  farther  down  the  river  and  on  the  Guaviare. 
The  governor  of  the  district  told  me  that  about  fifteen  mil- 
lion trees  of  the  balata  had  been  cut  down  along  the  latter 
river  during  the  last  ten  years,  as  the  method  used  to 
secure  this  class  of  rubber  necessitates  felling  the  trees. 

The  proprietors  of  rubber-camps  use  the  same  system  of 
keeping  their  employees  that  the  commission  merchants  in 
Ciudad  Bolivar,  who  are  the  purchasers  of  the  crude  prod- 
uct, employ  in  dealing  with  themselves;  namely,  they  keep 
them  constantly  in  debt  by  advancing  quantities  of  mer- 
chandise at  exorbitant  prices.  It  is  not  unusual  for  one 
patron  to  sell  some  of  his  men  to  another  for  the  amount  of 
their  indebtedness,  or  more,  if  he  can  get  it,  and  sometimes 
an  unsatisfactory  peon  is  turned  loose  in  the  wilderness  to 
shift  for  himself;  we  picked  up  one  who  had  been  abandoned 
on  a  sand-bank,  in  a  .half-starved  condition. 

The  Cerro  Carriche  is  another  granite  mass  similar  to 


170  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Yapacana,  but  not  quite  so  high.  It  stands  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  river,  between  the  mouths  of  two  small  rivers 
called  Carriche  and  Trocoapure. 

Early  on  February  21  we  had  the  first  distinct  view  of 
the  Cerro  Duida,  looming,  faintly  outlined,  in  the  distance. 
From  afar  it  resembled  a  high,  level  plain,  but  as  the  vapor 
clinging  to  the  huge,  dark  mass  slowly  dissolved  itself,  a 
well-defined  short  range  appeared  with  twin  peaks  showing 
high  above  the  rest  of  the  mountains. 

The  Orinoco  steadily  decreases  in  width  until  the  distance 
across  is  not  more  than  half  a  mile;  in  many  places  the 
banks  are  high  and  composed  of  pink  and  white  clay 
streaked  with  layers  of  dark-blue  clay.  On  both  sides  the 
jungle  presents  an  unbroken  wall  of  tangled  verdure;  occa- 
sionally a  slender  palm  rears  its  delicate  head  high  above 
the  riotous  mass,  as  if  gasping  for  one  more  breath  of  air 
before  being  strangled  by  the  figs  and  creepers  slowly  en- 
twining its  stem  with  their  death-dealing  tentacles.  Among 
the  lower  growth  are  vast  areas  of  palms,  known  as  coco  del 
mono,  with  long  fronds  resembling  those  of  the  Seaforthia, 
and  bearing  small,  hard  nuts;  the  leaves  are  used  in  thatch- 
ing huts  and  the  carroza  or  covering  of  the  boats.  Another 
palm,  tall  and  thorny,  resembles  the  well-known  chonta  of 
Colombia;  it  bears  large  clusters  of  red  nuts,  which  are 
very  palatable  when  thoroughly  boiled. 

The  heat  was  always  intense  and  most  oppressive;  even 
the  cool  nights  brought  no  respite,  and  in  the  early  morning 
a  thick  vapor  slowly  rose  from  the  water,  to  be  later  wafted 
above  the  tree-tops  and  disappear. 

Flocks  of  hoatzins,  or  lizard-birds  (Opisthocomus  cristatus), 
were  seen  almost  daily.  They  fussed  and  fluttered  among 
the  dense  vegetation,  but  could  not  be  induced  to  leave 
then-  dark  retreat.  There  were  also  nesting-trees  of  the 
black  and  yellow  orioles,  better  known  as  caciques,  which 
are  about  the  size  of  a  blue  jay;  sometimes  a  single  tree 
contained  thirty  or  more  nests  placed  close  together,  and 
also  invariably  a  number  of  large  wasp-nests  were  placed 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  171 

in  the  same  tree.  The  nests  of  these  birds  differed  from 
those  of  the  giant  orioles  (Ostinops)  in  being  smaller  and 
having  the  opening  at  the  top  instead  of  at  the  side  of  the 
swinging  bag. 

At  the  end  of  the  twentieth  day  we  reached  the  mouth 
of  the  Cunucunuma,  and  camped  upon  its  sandy  banks  for 
the  night.  This  river  is  approximately  five  hundred  feet 
wide  at  its  mouth,  shallow,  with  dark,  clear  water,  and 
flows  southward,  joining  the  Orinoco  at  right  angles,  as 
the  course  of  the  latter  river  at  this  point  is  eastward;  a 
low,  forested  hill  called  Ventana  rises  to  the  north.  One 
may  cover  the  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  Cunucunuma 
to  the  Cassiquiare  in  a  day,  and  reach  the  plains  on  which 
was  located  Esmeraldas  by  continuing  his  journey  an  addi- 
tional day. 

Not  far  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  the  dry  bed  of  a 
stream,  said  to  have  been  the  former  course  of  the  Cunu- 
cunuma; short,  soft  grass  now  covers  the  ancient,  sandy 
route  and  the  lines  of  trees  on  each  side  present  such  clean- 
cut  edges  as  to  suggest  well-kept  hedgerows.  Tapirs  and 
capybaras  have  worn  many  paths  through  the  luxuriant 
sward;  apparently  these  animals  come  out  into  the  open 
at  night  to  feed. 

The  current  of  the  river  is  so  strong  that  we  could  not 
average  more  than  four  or  five  miles  a  day.  Through  the 
clear  water  we  could  see  shoals  of  fish  and  numbers  of 
large  sting-rays  darting  about  over  the  bottom.  One  fish, 
resembling  a  beautifully  spotted  trout,  rose  eagerly  to  a 
trailing  hook  baited  with  a  strip  of  white  cloth;  it  weighed 
about  a  pound,  and  was  called  pabdn  by  the  natives;  on 
two  occasions  members  of  this  species  leaped  clear  of  the 
water  and  into  the  boat  as  we  poled  along  after  nightfall. 
Another  kind  greatly  resembled  a  flying-fish,  and  leaving 
the  water  singly  or  in  pairs,  skimmed  over  the  surface  for  a 
distance  of  twenty  yards  or  more,  and  then  dropped  with 
a  splash;  when  "flying"  it  left  a  train  of  ripples  in  its  wake, 
as  if  long  appendages  were  trailing  after  it. 


172  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

There  now  followed  a  series  of  low,  disconnected  moun- 
tains which  might  be  called  the  foot-hills  of  Duida.  The 
first  of  these  is  the  Cerro  Piapoco,  one  thousand  three 
hundred  feet  high;  parts  of  it  are  covered  with  low  scrub 
growth,  and  the  river  winds  around  three  sides  of  it.  Next 
comes  the  Cerro  Tapicure,  a  rounded  granite  mass  approxi- 
mately one  thousand  four  hundred  feet  high.  At  the  base 
of  the  latter  is  a  Maquiritare  plantation  of  yucas  (Manihot), 
pineapples,  and  plantains,  on  the  edge  of  which  stood  the 
communal  house,  conical  in  shape  and  one  hundred  feet  in 
diameter.  The  place  was  temporarily  deserted,  as  the  In- 
dians were  down-river  gathering  the  rubber  harvest.  Near 
by  also  grew  a  palm  new  to  us,  the  Tamiche;  it  is  thirty 
feet  high,  with  erect,  undivided  leaves,  and  the  crown  re- 
sembles a  huge,  green,  opening  tulip. 

While  tramping  in  the  forest  across  the  river  from  the 
Indian  plantation  we  came  suddenly  upon  a  Maquiritare 
woman  and  her  four  small  children,  squatting  around  a 
small  fire  built  under  a  rough  lean-to.  She  was  roasting  a 
curassow  and  tearing  off  pieces  for  her  young  brood,  which 
was  devouring  them  with  the  voracity  of  wolves.  The 
frightened  glances  of  these  wild  people  and  their  gnawing 
at  the  half-cooked  flesh  was  quite  in  keeping  with  their 
surroundings,  and  stamped  them  immediately  as  a  perfect 
part  of  the  virgin  wilderness. 

Rapids  are  not  wanting  in  the  Cunucunuma.  The  first 
is  the  Randal  del  Muerto,  formed  by  a  wide  ledge  of  rock 
which  extends  across  the  river,  and  over  which  the  water 
rushes  with  a  deafening  roar.  Next  comes  the  Randal  del 
Sina,  which  is  longer  but  not  so  difficult  to  navigate.  Just 
above  this  we  entered  the  Sina,  a  small  stream  which  comes 
from  the  direction  of  Duida,  and  ascended  to  its  highest 
navigable  point;  this,  however,  was  only  a  few  miles  above 
its  mouth. 

The  Cunucunuma,  it  may  be  stated,  rises  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  little-known  Cerro  Cuachamacari,  and  may  be 
ascended  to  the  foot  of  the  Cerro  Maravaca,  On  most 


Unloading  for  the  portage,  Raudal  del  Muerto. 


The  Cerro  Duida. 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  173 

maps  its  course  has  been  marked  east  of  Duida,  while  in 
reality  it  is  on  the  western  side.  Its  tributaries  from  the 
east  are  the  Tabari,  Sina,  Cua;  and  Rio  Negro;  and  from 
the  west  the  Yacare"  and  Cumichi.  There  are  numerous 
rapids.  Besides  the  two  mentioned,  the  Indians  named 
the  San  Ramon,  Rayao,  Chacherito,  Vaquiro,  Mapaco, 
Chipirima,  Picure,  and  Culebra,  all  of  which  must  be  passed 
before  reaching  Maravaca. 

When  rocks  and  low  water  barred  a  farther  ascent  we 
made  camp  on  the  high  bank  and  began  the  arduous  work 
of  cutting  a  trail  to  Duida,  about  six  miles  distant.  We 
had  secured  the  services  of  a  number  of  Maquiritares;  two 
men,  two  women,  and  a  boy,  and  these,  together  with  the 
members  of  our  crew,  were  immediately  put  to  work  on 
the  trail.  While  this  was  in  progress  we  devoted  ourselves 
to  the  exploration  of  the  forest  and  its  inhabitants. 

Apparently  the  Indians,  who  in  common  with  many 
South  American  tribes  seek  the  smaller  streams  for  their 
habitations,  and  who  live  in  small  groups  all  along  the 
Cunucunuma,  rarely  visited  this  locality.  Game  was  so 
abundant  and  so  tame  that  it  was  impossible  that  the  ani- 
mals had  been  persecuted  to  any  considerable  extent.  We 
also  visited  the  house  of  the  chief  of  the  tribe,  named  An- 
tonio Yaracuma,  whose  cunuco  (clearing)  was  on  the  Cunu- 
cunuma, a  few  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Sina  (Sina  is 
a  Maquiritare  word  meaning  wolf).  This  place  he  chose  to 
call  Yacare.  Surrounding  the  great,  conical  house  was  a 
small  patch  of  yucas  and  pineapple-plants,  walled  in  on  all 
sides  by  the  interminable  forest.  The  edge  of  the  roof  came 
down  to  within  five  feet  of  the  ground,  and  there  were 
eight  fireplaces,  equal  distances  apart,  showing  that  eight 
families  occupied  the  dwelling.  A  perfect  network  of 
poles  and  beams  supported  the  ragged  grass  and  palm-leaf 
canopy,  and  from  these  various  articles  were  suspended: 
Drums,  made  of  sections  of  hollow  tree-trunks  and  covered 
with  the  skin  of  a  red  howling  monkey  on  one  side  and  of  a 
peccary  on  the  other;  long  tubular  baskets  of  wickerwork 


174  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

used  to  express  the  poisonous  juice  of  the  yuca  root  in 
making  mandioca;  blow-guns  ten  feet  long,  hammocks,  and 
fishing-tackle.  Everything  was  immaculately  clean  and 
well  arranged.  On  one  side  two  small  rooms  had  been 
built  of  adobe,  one  for  the  chief,  and  the  other  for  storing 
baskets  of  mandioca,  each  of  which  held  about  a  hundred 
pounds. 

A  walk  around  the  edge  of  the  clearing  disclosed  an  ob- 
scure trail  which  zigzagged  and  wound  through  the  forest 
about  a  mile  and  then  opened  into  an  immense  plantation, 
which  we  estimated  contained  not  less  than  a  hundred 
acres.  The  trees  had  been  cut  down  and  burned,  and 
yucas  neatly  planted  in  hills  stretched  to  the  very  edge  of 
the  clearing.  Through  the  centre  ran  lanes  of  plantain 
and  banana  plants,  bordered  by  rows  of  pineapples,  sugar- 
cane, and  cashews.  The  ground  was  carefully  cultivated, 
and  there  were  no  weeds;  the  stalks  of  uprooted  plants  had 
been  piled  around  the  edge  of  the  field  forming  a  thick 
fence.  The  reason  for  maintaining  such  large  plantations 
is  that  the  women  make  a  good  deal  of  mandioca  to  sell  to 
the  traders  for  cloth,  matches,  perfume,  and  trinkets. 
The  men  clear  the  ground;  the  women  plant  and  care  for 
the  crops.  From  the  juice  of  the  yuca  a  very  intoxicating 
drink  called  casire  is  made,  and  of  this  great  quantities 
are  consumed  during  the  wild  orgies  which  take  place  at 
frequent  intervals.  Boiling  and  fermentation  destroy  the 
poisonous  effect  of  the  fresh  juice. 

We  found  the  forest  around  camp  to  be  all  but  impene- 
trable on  account  of  the  underbrush  and  creepers.  Also, 
there  were  a  number  of  windfalls  where  cyclones  had  cut 
wide,  clean  swaths  through  the  forest,  leaving  an  upheaved 
barrier  that  could  not  be  crossed  without  the  liberal  use  of 
axe  and  machete.  Small  birds  were  abundant  and  travelled 
in  mixed  flocks.  Of  the  larger  birds  there  was  an  unfail- 
ing supply;  guans  and  curassows  strutted  unconcernedly 
about,  or  flew  into  the  lower  branches  of  the  trees  to  look 
at  us  with  surprise  or  resentment;  large  tinamou  ran  about 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  175 

in  pairs  like  chickens  and  were  slow  to  take  wing.  Occa- 
sionally we  ran  into  a  flock  of  trumpeters  (PsopMa),  which 
stared  at  us  in  curiosity  for  a  few  moments  and  then  flew 
into  a  tree,  and  raised  an  unearthly  din,  cackling  and 
screaming  until  dispersed  by  a  few  shots. 

The  Indians  told  a  curious  story  about  a  trumpeter  and 
a  curassow.  In  the  very  beginning  of  things  two  of  these 
birds  decided  upon  a  matrimonial  alliance,  but  domestic 
troubles  soon  broke  out  and  there  was  no  possibility  of  a 
reconciliation;  it  was  thereupon  decided  to  lay  the  case 
before  the  gods  who  live  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Duida. 
The  wise  gods  ordered  them  to  fight  it  out;  in  the  course  of 
the  combat  that  followed,  the  curassow  pushed  the  trum- 
peter into  the  fire,  burning  off  the  feathers  of  the  latter's 
tail;  the  trumpeter  promptly  retaliated  by  pushing  her 
mate  into  the  fire,  singeing  his  crest.  Thereupon  the  gods 
decreed  that  they  should  remain  in  this  humiliating  plight 
for  the  rest  of  their  days,  and  so  even  to  this  day  the  curas- 
sow wears  a  curled  crest  and  the  trumpeter  has  a  very 
short  tail. 

No  matter  how  far  we  chanced  to  go  during  the  morn- 
ing's hunt  it  was  always  easy  to  determine  the  exact  loca- 
tion of  our  camp.  A  colony  of  caciques  had  built  their 
nests  in  the  top  of  a  tree  near  the  tent,  and  quarrelled  and 
chirped  so  noisily  all  day  long  that  we  could  not  get  out  of 
hearing  of  them. 

After  the  trail  had  been  completed  for  a  distance  of 
several  miles,  hunting  was  rendered  much  easier.  It  was  a 
delight  to  wander  noiselessly  along  the  clean  path  and 
watch  the  wild  things  pursuing  their  daily  activities.  Ta- 
pirs moved  quietly  across  the  narrow  lane,  like  shadows; 
but  if  disturbed  crashed  through  the  brush  and  thundered 
away  like  frightened  horses.  Large  red  squirrels  frisked  in 
the  trees  or  fed  in  the  nut-bearing  palms.  Monkeys  were 
always  about;  there  were  red  howlers,  cebus,  and  small 
black  woolly  monkeys  with  gold-colored  hands;  the  latter 
travelled  in  small  troops  and  raced  through  the  tree-tops 


176  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

at  great  speed,  making  long  jumps  from  branch  to  branch; 
at  frequent  intervals  during  the  morning  and  evening  they 
raised  their  voices  in  shrill  little  cries  of  distress,  resembling 
a  series  of  quickly  repeated  ohs. 

The  river  was  teeming  with  fish.  At  night,  after  their 
work  had  been  completed,  the  Indians,  who  camped  on  the 
water's  edge,  threw  in  their  lines  and  never  failed  to  catch 
a  goodly  supply.  While  in  our  presence  the  men  always 
wore  blue  cotton  trousers  and  the  women  loose  dresses  of 
the  same  color,  but  when  alone  they  threw  aside  all 
clothing. 

Occasionally  a  light  canoe  containing  women  and  chil- 
dren passed  our  camping-site,  but  they  always  remained  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  opposite  bank  and  paid  no  attention 
to  us  whatever  if  we  chanced  to  call  to  them;  in  fact,  they 
could  not  even  be  induced  to  look  in  our  direction. 

The  nights  were  always  sultry  and  it  rained  frequently. 
If  the  weather  permitted,  a  huge  fire  was  built;  into  this  a 
steady  stream  of  fireflies  or  click-beetles  winged  their  way 
to  destruction.  Late  one  night  we  heard  a  queer  pattering 
on  the  top  of  the  tent-fly;  back  and  forth  scurried  the  little 
feet,  and  up  and  down  the  sloping  roof.  Our  acetylene- 
lamps  revealed  a  family  of  opossums  which  had  discovered 
an  ideal  playground.  Often,  too,  we  heard  cautious  foot- 
steps near  by,  and  the  suddenly  flashed  light  disclosed  the 
glowing  eyes  of  a  deer,  tapir,  or  jaguar,  which  gazed  stupidly 
a  moment  into  the  dazzling  brilliance  and  then  darted  away. 

On  account  of  the  dampness  mould  formed  so  rapidly 
that  cameras  and  all  leather  goods  had  to  be  cleaned  daily, 
and  there  was  great  difficulty  in  drying  specimens. 

We  had  frequent  views  of  Duida.  Each  morning  at 
about  ten  the  mist  drifted  from  the  summit  and  revealed 
the  jagged,  rocky  peaks;  our  calculations  placed  the  alti- 
tude of  the  mountain  at  approximately  five  thousand  five 
hundred  feet.  Toward  the  Orinoco  the  mass  presents  a 
bold  front,  the  sheer  walls  of  granite  rising  to  a  height  of 
several  thousand  feet.  The  western  slope  is  gradual  and 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  177 

any  attempt  to  ascend  the  mountain  should  be  made  from 
that  side. 

Cutting  the  trail  required  more  time  than  we  had  antici- 
pated. It  was  our  intention  to  remove  the  equipment  to 
the  very  base  of  Duida,  and  this  was  impossible  until  a 
suitable  way  had  been  prepared.  The  intervening  country 
is  rolling  and  the  hollows  are  filled  with  a  network  of  deep, 
water-filled  canyons;  across  these  trees  had  to  be  felled  to 
provide  a  means  of  crossing.  Also,  neither  the  Maquiri- 
tares  or  the  Venezuelans  proved  to  be  very  industrious, 
and  were  about  as  poor  a  class  of  assistants  as  can  be  found. 
However,  work  progressed  steadily,  and  there  came  the 
day  when  the  last  bridge  had  been  placed  across  the  wind- 
ing river,  and  we  were  able  to  proceed  to  the  foot  of  Duida. 

Near  the  mountain  the  forest  assumes  a  different  aspect. 
Instead  of  the  tall  trees  there  are  vast  groves  of  palms 
which  form  such  a  dense  canopy  that  the  sunlight  never 
penetrates  to  the  ground;  for  this  reason  there  is  no  under- 
growth, but  the  earth  is  covered  with  a  soft  carpet  of  dry 
leaves.  Some  of  the  plants  attain  such  giant  proportions, 
with  fronds  thirty  or  forty  feet  long  and  fifteen  feet  wide, 
they  form  great  tent-like  shelters. 

.As  we  neared  the  mountain  the  Indians  became  restive 
and  finally  refused  to  go  any  farther.  They  firmly  believe 
that  it  is  the  abode  of  spirits  who  will  be  quick  to  resent 
any  intrusion  into  their  sacred  precincts.  Besides,  the 
rainy  season  was  fast  approaching,  and  at  night  blinding 
flashes  of  lightning  played  among  the  crags,  and  the  dull 
boom  of  distant  thunder  pierced  the  sultry  blackness.  Wind 
swept  through  the  forest  in  fitful  blasts,  and  it  rained  fre- 
quently. Sometimes  the  blasts  attained  the  velocity  of  a 
cyclone  and  sent  tall  trees  crashing  down  on  all  sides.  The 
Indians  could  endure  the  strain  no  longer,  so  one  night  they 
quietly  disappeared,  taking  the  boat  with  them.  At  first 
this  loss  seemed  anything  but  pleasant,  but  a  raft  was  soon 
constructed,  and  two  of  the  men  were  sent  down  to  the 
nearest  rubber-camp  on  the  Orinoco  for  another  craft.  We 


178  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

never  saw  our  Indians  again,  but  one  afternoon  two  men 
of  the  tribe  visited  our  camp.  They  emerged  silently  from 
the  forest,  having  concealed  their  canoe  somewhere  above 
or  below,  laden  with  baskets  of  plantains,  sweet  potatoes, 
and  bananas,  and  several  cakes  of  cassava  bread,  also  a 
large,  freshly  killed  curassow — enough  provisions  to  keep 
two  men  a  week.  I  thought  they  wanted  to  stop  with  us 
for  the  night,  and  showed  them  the  fireplace.  They  paid 
no  heed  to  my  implied  invitation,  but  dropped  their  bur- 
dens at  our  feet,  reluctantly  accepted  a  few  fish-hooks 
which  were  offered  to  them,  and  then  departed  as  mys- 
teriously as  they  had  come.  Perhaps  they  had  been  sent 
by  our  erstwhile  companions,  who  may  have  been  con- 
scientious enough  to  make  some  reparation  for  the  theft  of 
the  canoe. 

The  rainy  season  advanced  with  such  rapid  strides  that 
further  work  was  impossible.  Vapor  hung  over  the  forest 
like  a  pall  for  days  at  a  time,  and  the  river,  rising  with  each 
passing  hour,  was  quickly  inundating  the  lowlands.  The 
sight  of  the  new  canoe  coming  up  the  river  was  therefore  a 
welcome  one,  and  it  did  not  require  many  days  to  pack  our 
collections  and  outfit,  stow  them  aboard,  and  steer  a  course 
downward  with  the  rapid  current.  It  required  only  nine 
days  to  reach  San  Fernando  de  Atabapo. 

The  results  of  the  expedition  are  surprising  and  interest- 
ing. Duida  is  not  the  isolated  "mountain  island"  it  was 
commonly  supposed  to  be,  but  is  connected  with  the  moun- 
tains of  the  Ventuari  and  Parima  by  a  series  of  hills,  some 
of  which  reach  a  height  of  over  a  thousand  feet.  Its  ele- 
vation is  comparatively  low,  being  less  than  that  of  the 
Maravaca.  To  attempt  its  ascent  from  the  Orinoco  side 
seems  hopeless  on  account  of  the  frowning  precipices  facing 
the  plains  near  Esmeraldas.  The  proper  placing  of  the 
Cunucunuma  and  an  elaboration  of  the  map  of  the  region 
are  other  results. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  the  dry  season  is  much 
shorter  on  the  Upper  Orinoco  than  on  the  lower  river,  and 


THE  MAQUIRITARES'  LAND  179 

work  must  be  pushed  with  the  utmost  speed.  The  tribu- 
taries of  the  Orinoco,  as  well  as  the  main  river,  leave  their 
banks  soon  after  the  beginning  of  the  steady  downpours, 
and  the  whole  country  is  flooded  many  miles  inland;  in 
places  the  river  is  then  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  wide; 
all  the  rubber-camps  we  had  seen  on  the  upward  trip  were 
totally  deserted  when  we  passed  them  going  down,  and  of 
some  of  the  huts  the  roofs  only  showed  above  the  water; 
others  had  vanished  with  the  yellow  flood. 

The  collections  of  birds  and  mammals  were  large  and  in- 
teresting; they  yielded  a  number  of  species  and  one  genus 
new  to  science. 

And  finally,  a  word  about  assistants;  under  no  circum- 
stances should  Venezuelans  or  Indians  be  depended  upon. 
It  is  possible  to  secure  experienced  river-men  in  Trinidad, 
and  with  proper  treatment  they  make  faithful  and  efficient 
companions. 


CHAPTER  XII 
LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS 

A  NATURALIST  might  spend  many  years  in  Venezuela  and 
still  exhaust  but  a  very  small  fraction  of  the  possibilities 
offered  to  the  field-observer — so  vast  are  the  resources  of 
that  zoological  wonderland.  Exigencies  beyond  our  con- 
trol, however,  recalled  us  to  Trinidad,  and  after  a  brief  rest 
we  turned  our  eyes  toward  British  Guiana. 

The  distance  between  the  island  and  the  low  Guiana 
mainland  is  not  great;  it  required  just  two  days  of  unevent- 
ful sailing  for  the  Sarstoon  of  the  Quebec  Line  to  plough 
through  the  deep  water  and  schools  of  flying-fish,  and  finally 
nose  her  way  carefully  through  the  mud  to  Georgetown. 

The  city  is  built  on  the  low  coastal  land,  and  a  great 
stone  wall  prevents  the  sea  from  reclaiming  its  own  at  high 
tide.  The  streets  are  wide  and  bordered  with  trees.  No 
more  suitable  style  of  architecture  could  be  desired  for  a 
tropical  country  than  that  employed  in  constructing  the 
houses  of  the  better  class  of  inhabitants;  they  are  practi- 
cally all  doors  and  windows,  giving  admittance  to  every 
passing  breeze.  The  wide  verandas  are  carefully  screened. 

Numerous  canals,  spanned  by  picturesque  little  wooden 
bridges,  divide  the  city  into  sections.  At  low  tide  the  locks 
in  the  sea-wall  are  opened  to  permit  the  excess  of  water  to 
escape;  at  high  tide  the  locks  are  closed  to  keep  the  low- 
lands from  being  flooded.  Growing  in  the  water  are  masses 
of  Victoria  regia  lilies  with  white  or  pink  flowers;  the  giant 
leaves,  with  upturned  edges,  and  often  several  feet  across, 
resemble  huge  pies;  but  the  plant  is  lovely  from  a  distance 
only,  as  the  veins  and  midribs  are  covered  with  long,  sharp 
spines  that  effectively  prevent  any  intimate  advances  on 
the  part  of  an  overenthusiastic  admirer. 

180 


LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS  181 

Mosquitoes  are  not  lacking,  but  they  appear  at  night 
only,  when  one  can  easily  evade  them  by  remaining  indoors; 
and  through  the  hours  of  darkness  the  twanging  and  peep- 
ing of  myriads  of  frogs  fill  the  air  with  a  not  unmusical  din. 

The  population  is  the  most  cosmopolitan  imaginable.  It 
ranges  from  dignified,  helmeted  British  officers  down  to  the 
meanest  Chinese  or  Hindu  coolie  living  in  a  dilapidated 
shamble  on  the  border  of  a  marshy  rice-field. 

Our  first  care  was  to  secure  the  admission  of  our  equip- 
ment by  the  customs  officials.  This  was  accomplished  with- 
out an  undue  amount  of  difficulty;  and  within  a  short  time 
we  had  also  obtained  a  permit  to  pursue  our  scientific  work, 
for  in  British  Guiana  birds  are  wisely  protected.  We  also 
opened  negotiations  with  Sproston's,  Ltd.,  who  operate 
many  large  lumber,  rubber,  and  mining  enterprises  in  the 
interior  of  the  country.  This  step  is  a  most  essential  one, 
as  the  concern,  through  its  agents,  can  be  of  the  greatest 
assistance  to  the  traveller. 

On  July  7,  we  boarded  a  comfortable  little  steamer  and 
started  up  the  Demerara.  Rain  fell  in  torrents  throughout 
the  day  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  see  anything  but  the 
fleeting,  yellow  water  against  which  the  straining  craft 
battled  vigorously,  and  the  long  rows  of  trees  faintly  out- 
lined in  a  world  of  blue-gray  mist.  Wismar  was  reached 
that  night  and  passengers  and  luggage  were  hurried  aboard 
the  waiting  train,  which  soon  covered  the  eighteen  miles 
of  intervening  country  to  Rockstone,  on  the  Essiquibo  River. 
A  delightful  bungalow  hotel  is  maintained  by  Sproston's  at 
the  latter  place,  and  every  need  of  the  visitor  is  superabun- 
dantly supplied. 

A  launch  of  considerable  size,  towing  a  house-boat  pro- 
vided for  first-class  passengers,  left  Rockstone  early  the 
following  morning.  The  Essiquibo  is  truly  a  very  great 
river,  and  the  height  and  magnificence  of  the  forest  cover- 
ing its  banks  is  not  exceeded  in  any  part  of  South  America. 
In  some  instances,  the  trees  are  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  feet  high;  cottonwood,  greenheart,  and  wallaba  mingled 


182  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

their  leafy  crowns  far  above  the  mere  rabble  of  palms  and 
lower  growth,  shutting  out  the  light  and  effectively  killing 
their  competitors  until — after  hundreds  of  years  of  suc- 
cessful fighting — the  strain  begins  to  tell  and  the  monarchs 
are  compelled  to  bow  before  the  inevitable  onslaught  of 
old  age.  At  the  first  signs  of  weakness  enemies  spring  up 
on  every  side.  The  struggle  for  life  is  constant  and  in  deadly 
earnest.  Of  the  hundreds,  perhaps  thousands,  of  saplings 
which  appear  as  the  light  and  air  gradually  penetrate  through 
the  opening  made  by  the  dying  giant,  only  one  can  even- 
tually survive.  Naturally,  the  strongest  and  fittest  pos- 
sesses every  advantage  in  the  mad  fight  for  existence,  and 
as  it  quickly  outstrips  its  weaker  rivals  they  wither  and 
die. 

The  launch  called  at  a  number  of  rubber-plantations 
and  lumber-camps.  Great  quantities  of  greenheart  (Nec- 
tandra  rodicei)  are  cut  and  exported;  the  wood  is  very  hard 
and  durable,  and  resists  decay  when  under  water,  for  which 
reason  it  is  used  largely  for  submerged  work  such  as  wharfs 
and  piles.  Next  in  importance  is  crab-wood  (Carapa  guia- 
nensis)  employed  in  building  houses;  third  in  value  are 
several  varieties  of  wallaba  (Eperud) ;  this  wood  has  a  coarse 
but  even  grain  and  is  very  resinous,  being  suitable  for  the 
manufacture  of  shingles  and  vat-staves. 

The  rubber  industry  ranks  third  in  importance  in  British 
Guiana.  By  far  the  greater  part  of  this  product  is  balata, 
collected  from  indigenous  trees  that  are  tapped  under  care- 
ful government  supervision.  Sapium  yields  the  better  qual- 
ity of  rubber,  but  exists  in  limited  quantities  only,  and  the 
majority  of  the  trees  on  plantations  have  not  yet  reached 
the  productive  age. 

Our  first  headquarters  were  made  at  Tumatumari,  a 
short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Potaro  River.  The 
river  is  at  this  point  encumbered  with  a  series  of  rapids 
ending  in  a  fall  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet. 

Tumatumari  is  a  small  negro  settlement,  and  owes  its 
existence  to  the  gold-mines  scattered  throughout  the  sur- 


Wismar  on  the  Demerara  River. 


Tumatumari  on  the  Potaro  River. 


LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS  183 

rounding  country.  We  made  headquarters  in  a  comfortable 
bungalow  provided  by  Sproston's.  A  good  trail  leads  through 
the  tall  forest,  a  distance  of  many  miles,  with  numerous 
side  trails  branching  off  in  various  directions.  Along  the 
latter  we  immediately  began  to  prosecute  our  work.  On 
our  very  first  excursions  we  heard  the  enchanting  song  of 
the  Guiana  solitaire,  or  quadrille-bird  as  it  is  locally  known. 
From  the  depths  of  the  dark  forest  there  arose  a  low,  mourn- 
ful note,  so  liquid  and  melancholy  that  the  music  of  no  in- 
strument made  by  the  hand  of  man  could  equal  it  in  ethereal 
beauty;  gradually  it  swelled  louder  and  louder,  but  always 
preserving  the  same  exquisite  quality  until  the  eight  notes 
had  been  uttered  and  the  song  died  with  a  wistful  sob.  To 
hear  this  song  is  to  experience  one  of  the  most  enchanting 
of  earthly  delights,  the  memory  of  which  will  remain  as  long 
as  life  itself  and  gild  the  other  reminiscences  of  sweltering 
days  spent  in  tropical  lowlands,  of  plagues  of  insects,  of 
fever,  and  even  the  hard-fought  battles  against  odds  that 
seemed  overwhelming.  The  bird  is  a  shy  little  creature, 
and  is  obscurely  colored;  among  the  deep  shadows  where  it 
spends  its  lonely  existence  the  brown  and  gray  of  its  modest 
attire  blend  so  well  with  its  surroundings  that  it  is  rare  in- 
deed to  have  even  a  fleeting  glimpse  of  the  captivating 
songster. 

Perched  in  the  dead  tops  of  some  of  the  tallest  trees,  we 
found  a  bird  which,  seen  from  below,  resembled  a  giant  long- 
tailed  hummer;  but  a  short  time  spent  in  observation  soon 
disclosed  the  fact  that  it  belonged  to  another  family,  so 
different  were  its  habits.  It  sat  motionless  many  minutes 
at  a  time,  and  darted  off  a  short  distance,  presumably  in 
pursuit  of  an  insect,  at  infrequent  intervals,  only  to  quickly 
return  to  its  perch.  This  was  the  paradise  jacamar,  a  re- 
splendent bird  with  a  metallic  green  back  and  black  under- 
parts.  The  jacamars  form  a  peculiar  family,  and  have  been 
frequently  called  "forest-kingfishers"  because  of  their  super- 
ficial resemblance  to  the  Alcyones.  The  greater  number  of 
species  are  gorgeously  colored  and  inhabit  the  lower  branches 


184  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

of  forest-trees,  feeding  on  insects.  The  nest  is  placed  in  a 
hole  in  the  bank  of  some  wild  ravine  or  river. 

The  abundance  of  bird-life,  and  also  the  variety,  found 
in  the  lowland  forest  of  British  Guiana  is  bewildering,  even 
to  the  seasoned  field-observer;  and  nowhere  in  all  South 
America  are  the  feathered  folk  clothed  in  more  brilliant  and 
gorgeous  colors.  Evolution,  it  seems,  has  run  riot  in  al- 
most every  conceivable  direction  in  an  effort  to  provide 
each  species  with  some  special  color  or  characteristic  that 
might  enhance  its  beauty  or  better  suit  it  to  compete  suc- 
cessfully with  its  hosts  of  neighbors.  Thus  we  find  the 
king-tody,  a  species  of  small  flycatcher  that  preys  upon 
insects.  The  body  of  the  bird  is  inconspicuously  colored, 
but  the  head  is  adorned  with  a  crest  of  the  most  vivid  scar- 
let feathers.  As  the  bird  sits  quietly  upon  some  low  perch, 
the  crest  is  depressed  and  invisible;  then  suddenly  the 
flaming  crown  is  erected  and  spread  in  fan-shaped  forma- 
tion, when  it  resembles  a  brilliant  flower  newly  burst  into 
bloom.  Is  it  not  possible  that  this  flashing  bit  of  color  may 
attract  some  passing  insect,  which  instead  of  finding  nec- 
tar meets  destruction? 

However,  I  do  not  believe  that  the  survival  of  every 
species  is  dependent  upon  some  one  particular  patch  of 
color  or  exotic  appendage  which  it  may  possess.  It  does 
not  seem  to  me  possible,  for  instance,  that  one  species  of 
humming-bird  owes  its  existence  to  a  green  throat-patch, 
or  another  of  similar  size  and  habits  to  a  red  or  blue  one; 
nor  that  one  bird  of  paradise  persists  because  it  has  curious, 
long  appendages  on  its  head  or  shoulders  while  a  second 
one  may  have  similar  ones  in  its  tail;  but  rather  does  it 
show  that  evolution  tries  many  experiments.  Each  ani- 
mate thing  is  full  of  latent  buds,  it  would  seem,  any  one 
of  which  might  break  out  at  any  time,  prompted  by  an  im- 
pulse or  conditions  of  which  we  know  nothing.  If  the 
result  of  such  newly  acquired  variation,  is  beneficial,  the 
species  would  naturally  persist;  if  injurious,  it  would  re- 
sult in  extermination;  if  indifferent  (neither  harmful  nor 


LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS  185 

of  value)  it  would  have  no  effect  one  way  or  the  other,  and 
might  still  be  retained.  This  latter,  I  believe,  has  occurred 
in  a  number  of  instances. 

Our  visit  to  Tumatumari  was  supposedly  at  the  end  of 
the  wet  season;  notwithstanding  this,  it  rained  copiously 
nearly  every  day,  and  invariably  each  night.  We  spent 
the  evenings  on  the  wide  veranda  of  our  habitation,  pre- 
paring specimens  or  writing  notes.  Myriads  of  insects, 
attracted  by  our  bright  lamps,  fluttered  in  and  out  of  the 
darkness  and  settled  on  the  white  walls.  Our  two  colored 
assistants,  whom  we  had  brought  from  Georgetown,  were 
trained  and  enthusiastic  entomologists,  having  been  em- 
ployed by  Doctor  Rodway  of  the  Georgetown  Museum, 
and  spent  several  hours  each  night  with  net  and  cyanide 
bottle.  Frequently  they  caught  several  hundred  speci- 
mens in  a  short  time.  They  also  prepared  cages  of  fine 
wire  netting  in  which  caterpillars  were  imprisoned  and 
carefully  fed,  and  glass  boxes,  or  "incubators"  for  cocoons; 
in  this  work  they  were  most  successful,  and  a  number  of 
moths  of  rare  and  desirable  species  were  reared  to  a  state 
of  perfection.  Sometimes  the  downpour  was  so  heavy  that 
it  disturbed  small  birds  in  their  sleep  in  the  bushes;  on 
several  occasions  finches  (Sicalis)  fluttered  up  to  the  lamp 
in  a  dazed  or  bewildered  manner,  when  we  caught  them 
easily  and  placed  them  in  a  cage,  liberating  them  the  next 
morning. 

Numbers  of  Indians  of  the  Patamona  tribe  live  in  the 
surrounding  forest.  They  are  a  friendly  though  primitive 
people,  and  some  of  them  speak  or  understand  a  few  words 
of  English.  We  accompanied  the  Protector  of  Indians,  a 
British  official  living  at  Tumatumari,  to  one  of  the  Indian 
dwellings  one  day.  It  seems  that  a  negro  had  promised 
to  marry  a  Patamona  woman,  then  ran  away,  when  she 
promptly  married  a  man  of  her  own  tribe.  Learning  of 
this,  the  former  suitor  had  written  a  letter  to  the  officer  de- 
manding either  his  bride  or  damages.  The  official  spent  a 
very  bad  hour  trying  to  explain  the  situation  to  the  woman 


186  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

in  the  limited  Patamona  vocabulary  at  his  command,  while 
she  sat  stolidly  in  a  hammock.  When  he  had  finished,  she 
calmly  remarked,  "Well,  you  tell  him  I  think  he  is  a  damn 
fool,"  in  perfect  English ! 

This  tribe  of  Indians  has  a  curious  custom  of  torturing 
themselves  in  various  ways,  which  performance  is  called 
"beena."  It  is  supposed  to  insure  success  in  any  under- 
taking. A  favorite  method  is  to  insert  tough,  pliable  creep- 
ers into  the  nostrils  and  draw  them  out  through  the  mouth. 
Another  consists  of  slashing  the  breast,  arms,  and  legs, 
and  rubbing  into  the  wounds  the  acrid  juice  of  a  plant. 
The  official  to  whom  I  have  previously  referred  had  an 
Indian  in  his  employ  whose  duty  it  was  to  supply  the  table 
with  fresh  meat.  He  hunted  daily  in  the  forest,  bringing 
in  deer,  peccaries,  agoutis,  and  other  game  in  abundance; 
but  on  one  occasion  fortune  conspired  against  him.  There- 
upon he  tried  his  favorite  beena,  but  it  failed  to  bring  him 
luck;  every  other  means  of  mutilation  known  to  the  man 
was  then  resorted  to  in  rapid  succession,  but  still  his 
long  tramp  and  careful  stalking  yielded  no  meat.  He  be- 
came greatly  discouraged  and  told  his  employer  that  he 
would  make  one  more  attempt  at  hunting,  and  should  he 
fail  in  this  would  use  his  weapon  upon  himself.  The  officer 
thought  it  unwise  to  permit  the  discouraged  man  to  return 
to  the  forest  on  the  day  following  this  declaration,  so 
ordered  him  to  cut  weeds  in  his  back  yard.  This  the  In- 
dian reluctantly  consented  to  do,  but  scarcely  had  he 
begun  when  he  cut  down  a  bush  containing  a  wasps7  nest 
and  was  severely  stung.  He  immediately  took  his  gun 
and  hurried  away,  saying  that  a  new  "beena"  had  been 
sent  to  him,  and  that  at  last  the  evil  spell  was  broken. 
Strange  to  relate,  that  night  he  returned  laden  with  game. 

A  daily  launch  service  is  maintained  from  above  the 
falls  at  Tumatumari  to  Potaro  Landing,  a  day's  journey 
up-stream.  The  boat's  crew  are  all  negroes,  and  are  ordi- 
narily a  careless,  slovenly  lot.  A  short  time  before,  they 
had  failed  to  make  proper  allowance  for  the  strength  of  the 


LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS  187 

current  when  approaching  the  landing,  and  the  launch, 
together  with  its  thirty  or  more  occupants,  was  swept  over 
the  falls  and  lost.  Accidents  such  as  this  have  caused  the 
government  to  make  wise  and  stringent  rules  regulating 
navigation  on  all  streams,  and  applying  to  all  craft,  even 
canoes,  containing  passengers  other  than  the  owner;  as  a 
result  accidents  are  now  of  rare  occurrence. 

One  day's  time  is  required  to  reach  Potaro  Landing,  the 
end  of  launch  navigation,  from  Tumatumari.  Tourists  who 
visit  the  justly  famous  Kaieteur  Falls  proceed  overland 
from  this  point,  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  and  then  embark 
in  canoes  manned  by  full-blooded  Patamona  Indians. 
There  are  other  but  shorter  portages  farther  up  the  river, 
though  as  a  whole  the  journey  is  not  difficult  and  well 
worth  making. 

The  appeal  of  Potaro  Landing  was  irresistible  to  us,  so 
we  decided  to  remain  a  week  or  two.  Unfortunately, 
Sproston's  maintains  no  rest-house  here,  as  touring-parties 
continue  to  Kangaruma,  at  the  other  end  of  the  portage, 
to  spend  the  night.  However,  we  found  a  good-natured 
Chinaman,  who  operates  a  store  in  the  one  lonely  building 
at  the  landing,  and  he  permitted  us  to  use  half  of  his  barn; 
he  had  to  remove  his  horses  in  order  to  supply  even  these 
limited  quarters. 

A  good  cart-road  leads  through  the  forest  a  distance  of 
eighteen  miles  to  the  mining  country  on  Minnehaha  Creek, 
and  many  negro  miners  passed  along  this  way  each  day; 
the  greater  part  of  them  are  what  is  locally  known  as  "pork- 
knockers,"  because  they  live  largely  on  salt  pork  and  knock 
about  from  one  place  to  another.  They  secure  a  small 
stake  from  the  government  with  which  to  buy  a  pick  and 
shovel,  and  then  go  into  the  interior  to  prospect.  If,  as 
frequently  occurs,  they  strike  a  rich  pocket,  or  find  a  nugget 
of  considerable  size,  they  immediately  drop  their  imple- 
ments and  rush  back  to  Georgetown  to  spend  their  newly 
acquired  wealth.  Carriages  are  engaged  by  the  day,  ser- 
vants employed,  and  clothes  of  a  bright  and  flashy  nature 


188  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

are  purchased  in  quantities.  For  a  short  time  they  revel 
in  luxury  and  live  in  contempt  of  their  erstwhile  compan- 
ions. Quite  naturally  their  wealth  soon  disappears,  and 
the  tawdry  finery  is  pawned  to  provide  money  for  more 
necessary  things;  but  there  is  an  end  even  to  this  resource. 
Soon  they  again  seek  the  stake  of  a  few  dollars  and  hie 
themselves  back  to  the  wilderness  to  once  more  try  their 
luck  as  ordinary  pork-knockers.  To  strangers  the  negroes 
are  courteous  and  obedient,  but  among  themselves  they 
are  quarrelsome,  unfeeling,  and  even  cruel.  I  heard  of  an 
instance  where  a  number  of  them  had  been  commanded 
to  take  a  very  sick  companion  down  the  river  in  search 
of  medical  treatment.  As  they  paddled  along  the  pilot 
frequently  called  to  the  man  nearest  the  sufferer:  "Ain't 
dead  yet?"  The  person  addressed  roughly  turned  the  sick 
man  over  with  his  paddle  to  inspect  him,  and  then  answered 
with  a  curt  "No."  "My!  dat  man  dead  hard,"  replied 
the  pilot.  They  were  most  eagerly  awaiting  his  death  be- 
cause it  would  save  them  a  long  trip,  and  they  had  planned 
to  divide  among  themselves  his  possessions  the  moment 
life  departed. 

We  met  an  American  at  the  landing,  who  had  experi- 
enced several  unpleasant  encounters  with  the  negroes.  He 
was  engaged  in  searching  for  diamonds  and  had  many  of  the 
colored  folk  in  his  employ.  So  far  all  the  stones  discovered 
had  been  of  small  size,  but  one  day  two  of  his  men  found  a 
gem  of  good  proportions.  They  immediately  entered  into 
an  argument  as  to  whether  or  not  it  was  a  real  diamond, 
and  to  settle  the  dispute  placed  it  on  an  anvil  and  hit  it 
repeatedly  with  a  sledge-hammer.  "If  it  a  diamond,  it 
can't  broke,"  was  the  gist  of  their  theory.  However,  it 
was  a  real  diamond,  and  it  also  broke;  their  outraged  boss 
found  the  worthless  particles  a  short  time  later.  On  an- 
other occasion  this  same  man  was  confined  in  a  hospital  at 
Georgetown  with  a  severe  attack  of  fever.  One  night  the 
colored  head  nurse  swept  in  majestically,  gave  him  a  short, 
condescending  look,  and  then  directed  his  private  nurse  as 


LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS  189 

follows:  "Look  through  Mr.  M.'s  drawer  to  see  if  he's  got 
a  white  shirt  to  bury  him  in !" 

At  frequent  intervals  throughout  the  day  we  heard  a 
deep,  powerful  note  coming  from  the  forest.  It  was  a 
long-drawn  Wow  that  lasted  eight  or  ten  seconds,  and 
exactly  resembled  the  sound  made  by  a  circular  saw  cut- 
ting its  way  through  a  log.  This  we  found  was  made  by 
the  bald-headed  cotinga  (Gymnocephalus) ,  a  bird  the  size 
of  a  crow,  and  of  a  dark-brown  color;  the  head  is  entirely 
devoid  of  feathers,  like  a  vulture's.  Invariably  several  of 
these  curious  creatures  were  together,  fluttering  about 
among  the  lower  branches  and  making  the  woods  ring  with 
their  queer,  outlandish  cries.  Another  species  of  cotinga 
(Xipholend)  was  very  rare;  it  was  of  smaller  size  and  of  the 
deepest  wine  color,  with  long,  graceful  wing-coverts  and 
white  primaries.  When  several  were  together  in  some  tall 
tree-top  they  kept  up  a  continuous  quacking  like  a  flock  of 
ducks.  If  a  skin  of  this  bird  is  exposed  to  heat  the  color 
rapidly  fades  to  a  sickly  bluish-gray. 

One  day  an  Indian  hunter  brought  in  a  very  small  red 
howler  monkey,  and  as  I  was  aware  that  the  species  had 
not  been  known  to  live  in  captivity  more  than  a  few  weeks, 
I  was  very  eager  to  see  if  I  could  rear  it.  On  account  of  its 
small  size  it  had,  of  course,  to  be  fed  on  milk  (condensed), 
which  it  soon  learned  to  take  from  the  point  of  a  fountain- 
pen  filler.  While  it  thrived  and  grew  rapidly,  it  was  al- 
ways a  sad  little  fellow  and  made  no  attempt  to  play  or 
show  signs  of  great  friendliness.  The  only  advance  it  ever 
made  was  to  come  up  to  me  occasionally  when  I  spoke  to 
it,  and  feel  of  my  face  with  its  little  black  hands.  After  a 
time  it  was  given  full  liberty  about  the  camp,  when  it  would 
spend  hours  sitting  quietly  beside  a  basin  of  water  gazing  at 
its  reflection.  After  two  months,  and  just  as  I  was  congrat- 
ulating myself  on  having  raised  it  past- the  danger-point 
of  its  existence,  it  climbed  to  a  high  shelf  and  ate  a  quan- 
tity of  the  arsenic  compound  used  in  preparing  specimens. 

Learning  of  our  presence  at  Potaro  Landing,  a  Mr.  Me- 


190  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Kenzie,  manager  of  the  Minnehaha  Development  Com- 
pany, very  kindly  invited  us  to  his  bungalow,  eighteen  miles 
away,  and  later  sent  a  carriage  for  our  transportation. 
The  distance  was  covered  in  half  a  day,  and  lay  mainly 
through  the  heavy  forest,  although  there  was  occasionally 
an  area  of  considerable  extent  covered  with  tall,  rank  grass 
and  bushes.  The  company  was  operating  one  small  dredge 
in  Minnehaha  Creek,  and  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the 
entire  region  had  been  gone  over  before,  quantities  of  gold 
were  being  recovered  from  the  bed  of  the  stream.  As  there 
had  been  no  "clean-up"  for  two  weeks,  one  was  arranged 
for  our  benefit.  The  gold,  which  was  in  very  fine  particles, 
was  brought  up  from  the  dredge  in  tin  cans,  and  then  placed 
in  an  iron  retort  and  heated  to  a  very  high  temperature; 
this  freed  the  mercury  with  which  the  yellow  metal  had 
been  collected  from  the  mud  and  water  in  passing  over  the 
sluiceway  of  the  dredge.  Later  it  was  again  placed  in  the 
retort,  together  with  pulverized  glass  and  borax,  to  gather 
up  the  impurities,  and  melted;  then  it  was  poured  into 
moulds.  Four  bars,  weighing  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  ounces  each,  were  recovered.  It  was  then  inspected 
and  passed  by  an  official,  who  also  made  a  note  of  the 
amount  of  tax  due  the  government.  A  coolie  servant  was 
despatched  to  take  it  to  Georgetown  to  the  company's 
headquarters,  and  although  he  would  be  on  the  way  a  num- 
ber of  days  and  be  compelled  to  mingle  with  all  sorts  of 
people,  he  carried  no  weapon  of  any  kind  with  which  to 
protect  his  precious  burden.  This  speaks  well  for  the  law 
and  order  maintained  throughout  the  colony. 

The  country  along  Minnehaha  Creek  is  rolling  and  cov- 
ered with  a  good  stand  of  timber.  Numerous  small  streams 
flow  through  ravines  between  the  hills,  and  while  the  cur- 
rent is  strong  the  streams  are  not  deep.  A  footpath  con- 
tinues to  a  point  seven  miles  beyond,  on  the  Konamaruck, 
and  from  this  a  network  of  short,  narrow  trails  branch  out 
in  all  directions.  The  rainfall  is  very  great  in  the  entire 
region;  during  the  month  of  August  (1913)  it  was  twenty- 


LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS  191 

seven  inches,  while  only  nineteen  inches  fell  at  Tumatumari 
in  the  same  period  of  time.  One  result  of  the  great  amount  of 
moisture  is  that  there  is  an  increase  in  density  of  the  lower 
growth,  and  the  branches  are  covered  with  hanging  moss. 

As  one  moves  quietly  along  the  narrow  lanes,  enclosed 
on  both  sides  by  walls  of  trees,  the  lofty  tops  of  which  form 
a  leafy  vault  overhead,  he  cannot  fail  to  be  impressed  with 
the  great  breathless  silence  of  the  forest.  The  gloomy  soli- 
tude seems  pregnant  with  mysterious  forces  that  draw  the 
thoughts  of  the  lonely  wayfarer  to  far-off  regions  of  blissful 
oblivion.  Then,  suddenly,  a  low,  wailing  cry  of  anguish 
rising  in  tremulous  crescendo,  but  with  liquid  smoothness, 
smites  the  wanderer's  revery  and  brings  him  back  to  earth 
with  palpitating  heart  and  throbbing  pulses;  the  whinny 
rapidly  decreases  in  volume  and  dies  with  a  few  short  sighs. 
"Something,  perhaps  the  combination  of  all  these,  makes 
one  feel  as  if  he  had  been  caught  with  his  soul  naked  in  his 
hands;  when,  in  the  midst  of  subdued  and  chastened  revery , 
this  spirit  voice  takes  the  words  from  his  tongue  and  ex- 
presses so  perfectly  all  the  mystery,  romance,  and  tragedy 
that  the  struggling,  parasite-ridden  forest  diffuses  through 
the  damp  shade."  It  is  the  voice  of  the  forest  tinamou. 

The  notes  of  several  species  of  ant-thrush  (Grallaria  and 
Chamceza)  are  remarkable  for  their  quality  and  even  beauty. 
One  of  them  has  a  peculiar  call  resembling  the  words  compra 
pan  (buy  bread),  and  by  this  name  it  is  known  among  the 
natives  of  Colombia.  Another  gives  a  very  good  imitation 
of  a  moon  whistle,  the  song  lasting  fifty  seconds  at  times, 
without  the  slightest  intermission.  These  birds  are  very 
long-legged,  almost  tailless,  and  obscurely  colored  above; 
the  breast  is  frequently  streaked.  They  spend  their  entire 
lives  in  the  damp  gloom  of  the  forest  floor,  and  although 
the  song  may  come  from  but  a  few  feet  away,  it  is  impos- 
sible to  get  even  the  briefest  glimpse  of  the  bird  in  ninety- 
five  per  cent  of  the  cases  where  it  is  heard. 

If  we  stopped  to  rest  on  the  buttressed  roots  of  some 
great  cottonwood,  we  saw  a  few  of  the  minor  creatures  whose 


192  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

existence  is  hardly  suspected  by  the  casual  observer.  What 
at  first  appeared  to  be  a  maze  of  cobwebs  filling  the  en- 
trance to  a  dark  cavern  under  the  roots,  resolved  into  a 
moving,  living  mass.  A  closer  inspection,  and  small,  black 
specks  could  be  distinguished  in  the  madly  weaving  and  re- 
volving haze,  and  also  long,  threadlike  legs  dangling  so  idly 
that  one  wonders  why  they  do  not  become  hopelessly  en- 
tangled with  those  of  then-  neighbors.  This  peculiar,  waver- 
ing flight  of  the  crane-fly  seems  to  form  the  delicate, 
spidery  creature's  chief  occupation,  for  I  rarely  found  them 
at  rest.  Presently,  other  little  insects,  encouraged  by  the 
silence,  make  their  appearance.  First  among  them  may  be 
a  small  Gastaracantha  spider,  slowly  letting  itself  down  from 
an  overhead  twig  on  a  thread  of  finest  gossamer.  At  first 
glance  one  may  easily  mistake  the  insect  for  a  minute  crab 
that  has  fallen  from  the  leafage  into  a  silken  snare,  but  when, 
at  the  watcher's  first  movement,  it  either  runs  nimbly  up 
the  dangling  thread,  or  drops  to  the  ground  with  a  rapid 
slacking  of  line,  one  is  convinced  that  it  must  be  a  spider. 
The  hard  shell,  or  back,  is  fringed  with  sharp,  upturned 
spines  and  is  of  an  orange  color  marked  with  a  number  of 
small  black  dots. 

After  a  shower,  mosquitoes  were  numerous  and  attacked 
with  the  utmost  persistency.  This  irresistible  thirst  for 
blood  is  very  extraordinary;  it  does  not  seem  possible  that 
more  than  a  very  small  proportion  of  the  countless  millions 
of  these  insects  living  in  a  given  area  ever  have  an  oppor- 
tunity for  satiating  their  appetite  for  blood  during  their 
entire  lifetime;  yet  the  instinct  remains,  and  they  attack 
on  sight  ferociously  and  without  hesitation  any  living  thing 
whose  skin  their  beaks  can  penetrate.  It  is  also  a  well- 
known  fact  that  malarial  fever,  so  prevalent  in  the  tropical 
lowlands,  is  transmitted  by  a  genus  of  mosquito,  Anophiles. 
The  germ  of  this  fever,  however,  passes  only  one  period 
of  its  existence  within  the  insect's  body,  and  the  spores 
must  be  secured  from  some  living  creature,  and  after  de- 
velopment transmitted  to  another  to  complete  the  life  cycle. 


LIFE  IN  THE  GUIANA  WILDS  193 

Some  of  the  areas  in  which  malaria  abounds  are  practically 
uninhabited  by  human  beings,  so  this  agent  in  the  propaga- 
tion of  the  disease  is  of  course  lacking — at  least  to  a  con- 
siderable extent.  It  naturally  follows,  therefore,  that  some 
other  creature  or  creatures,  may  be  preyed  upon  and  inocu- 
lated by  Anophiles.  I  have  on  several  occasions  observed 
pet  cebus  and  woolly  monkeys  (Lagothrix)  that  showed 
decided  symptoms  of  suffering  from  malaria,  and  to  me  it 
seems  highly  possible  that  monkeys  may  be  at  least  one  of 
the  animals  that  serve  to  keep  the  infection  alive. 

While  at  Minnehaha  Creek  I  received  the  information 
that  Colonel  Theodore  Roosevelt  was  shortly  to  embark 
on  a  voyage  to  South  America;  and  also,  much  to  my 
pleasant  surprise,  that  I  had  been  selected  as  a  member  of 
his  expedition.  The  time  remaining  at  our  disposal  was 
very  limited,  so  we  rather  reluctantly  gave  up  our  intended 
visit  to  Kaieteur  Falls  and  Mount  Roraima,  and  returned 
to  Wismar  for  our  last  work  in  British  Guiana.  A  strip 
of  land  several  miles  wide  on  either  side  of  the  railroad  con- 
necting Rockstone  and  Wismar,  is  owned  by  Sproston's, 
and  the  greater  part  of  it  has  been  cleared  of  forest.  In- 
stead of  the  dense  growth  of  tall  trees  there  are  now  impene- 
trable thickets  of  high  slender  sprouts  and  bushes.  These 
jungles  harbor  almost  every  bird  and  animal  found  in  the 
region,  and  while  it  is  impossible  to  enter  them  for  any  great 
distance,  we  had  not  the  slightest  difficulty  in  making  large 
and  varied  collections  along  the  borders.  One  evening  the 
superintendent  of  the  line  was  returning  from  a  tour  of  in- 
spection, and  as  the  motor-car  in  which  he  was  riding  slowly 
rounded  a  curve,  a  jaguar  suddenly  appeared  on  one  side 
of  the  track;  he  promptly  killed  it  with  a  shotgun  as  it  was 
only  a  few  yards  distant. 

We  returned  to  Georgetown,  from  which  place  Mr.  Igle- 
seder,  who  had  been  my  assistant,  started  for  New  York, 
while  I  sailed  for  Barbados,  where  I  planned  to  await  the 
arrival  of  Colonel  Roosevelt  and  join  him  on  his  expedition 
into  the  wilderness  of  Brazil. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

FIRST  WEEKS   WITH  THE   ROOSEVELT   SOUTH 
AMERICAN   EXPEDITION 

THE  S.  S.  Van  Dyck  of  the  Lamport  and  Holt  Line,  with 
Colonel  Roosevelt  and  his  party  on  board,  arrived  at  Bar- 
bados on  the  morning  of  October  10,  and  late  that  after- 
noon pointed  her  nose  southward  toward  Bahia.  The  plans 
of  the  expedition,  with  which  I  was  immediately  made  ac- 
quainted, called  for  a  rather  short  and  not  too  difficult  trip 
up  the  Paraguay  River  and  down  the  Tapajos,  having  for 
its  prime  object  the  study  of  the  fauna  and  collection  of 
zoological  specimens  in  the  region  traversed;  but  all  this 
was  changed  within  a  very  few  days  as  we  shall  subsequently 
learn.  Besides  Colonel  Roosevelt,  the  expedition  consisted 
of  Geo.  K.  Cherrie,  Anthony  Fiala,  Jacob  Sigg,  Father  Zahm, 
and  myself. 

Bahia  was  reached  on  the  18th;  Kermit  Roosevelt  joined 
the  expedition  at  this  place.  The  Van  Dyck  remained  at 
anchor  the  entire  day,  thus  allowing  sufficient  time  for  a 
casual  inspection  of  the  city.  Two  days  after,  we  arrived 
in  Rio  de  Janeiro.  The  paucity  of  the  English  language 
does  not  permit  of  an  adequate  description  of  the  natural 
beauties  of  the  harbor  and  the  city.  All  steamers  entering 
the  bay  must  sail  through  the  narrow  passage  between  the 
famous  Poo  de  Azucar  and  the  mainland  on  the  opposite 
side.  The  great  loaf-shaped  rock  rises  to  a  height  of  twelve 
hundred  feet  above  the  water;  if  one  craves  excitement, 
it  is  possible  to  ascend  to  the  top  in  a  small  car  travelling 
on  steel  cables. 

In  few  cities  is  there  such  a  display  of  great  wealth. 
The  main  street,  the  Avenida  Central,  is  wide  and  beau- 
tiful, and  the  sidewalks  are  of  coarse  mosaic.  There  are 

194 


THE  ROOSEVELT  EXPEDITION  195 

numerous  palatial  buildings,  though  some  of  them  are  too 
ornate  to  appeal  to  North  American  taste,  and  gold-leaf 
and  carved  marble  have  been  used  lavishly  in  their  decora- 
tion. The  public  squares,  filled  with  the  finest  of  tropical 
trees  and  plants,  give  a  park-like  appearance  to  at  least  parts 
of  the  city. 

Of  interest  to  the  tourist,  perhaps,  are  the  numerous 
curio-shops  filled  with  a  varied  assortment  of  almost  every- 
thing ranging  from  minute,  brilliantly  hued  beetles,  to 
feather  flowers  and  the  skins  of  anacondas.  Brazil  is  of 
course  popularly  believed  to  be  the  land  of  huge  snakes; 
one  dealer  calmly  told  us  that  he  frequently  had  skins  forty 
metres  long,  but  the  longest  he  happened  to  possess  measured 
less  than  twenty  feet  in  length.  The  number  of  stories  in 
common  circulation  concerning  serpents  of  monstrous  pro- 
portions in  South  American  countries,  is  astonishing;  and 
it  was  interesting  to  note  that  the  farther  south  we  went, 
the  longer  the  reptiles  grew. 

Thus,  in  Barranquilla,  near  the  Caribbean  coast  of  Co- 
lombia, I  was  told  that  specimens  thirty  feet  long  were  to 
be  had  frequently;  this  did  not  seem  quite  probable.  In 
Venezuela  thirty-five  feet  was  not  considered  unusual,  and 
I  was  sorry  that  none  were  to  be  obtained  during  my  visit. 
In  British  Guiana,  snakes  forty  feet  long  were  said  to  be 
fairly  common,  although  I  could  find  no  one  who  had  ac- 
tually seen  one  of  that  size.  The  climax  was  reached  in 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  when  a  curio-dealer  told  about  the  forty- 
metre  snakes.  I  frankly  expressed  my  doubts,  and  he  pro- 
ceeded to  tell  of  how  a  man  standing  beside  a  snake  of  this 
size,  that  was  coiled  up,  could  not  look  over  the  top  of  it — 
it  was  such  a  great  heap. 

It  must  be  admitted  that  Brazil  with  its  great  Amazon 
basin  produces  many  strange  and  unusual  creatures;  but 
when  it  comes  to  one-hundred-foot  snakes,  it  can  only  be 
said  that  there  is  absolutely  no  proof  of  their  existence. 
No  dealer  I  ever  visited,  and  there  were  many,  could  ever 
produce  a  skin  over  twenty  feet  long. 


196  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  traveller  into  the  interior  hears  many  stories  of  great 
serpents  and  their  doings;  for  instance,  the  story  of  the 
horned  snake  is  famous  all  over  South  America,  and  while 
the  details  may  vary,  the  main  features  are  always  the  same. 
It  is  the  tale  of  a  person  (usually  the  one  telling  the  story) 
who  came  suddenly  upon  an  enormous  snake  with  a  long 
horn  on  either  side  of  the  head.  Of  course,  the  reptile  was 
immediately  killed,  sometimes  with  a  rifle  or  revolver,  or 
occasionally  with  a  knife,  after  a  desperate  struggle.  As 
the  slain  monster  writhed  its  last,  the  heroic  hunter  made 
a  startling  discovery;  the  snake  did  not  actually  have  horns; 
it  had  merely  swallowed  an  ox,  which  feat  it  performed 
without  difficulty  until  the  head  was  reached;  this  refused 
to  go  down  on  account  of  the  spreading  horns  lodging  cross- 
wise in  the  corners  of  the  snake's  mouth.  Hence  the  old, 
old  story  of  the  horned  snake. 

Another  favorite  anecdote  which  I  have  heard  repeated  a 
number  of  times  is  that  of  the  man  who  with  his  wagon,  to 
which  two  oxen  were  hitched,  attempted  to  ford  a  stream; 
suddenly  an  anaconda  of  enormous  size  emerged  from  the 
water  and,  enveloping  both  animals  in  its  coils,  crushed  them 
to  death.  I  never  encouraged  those  telling  this  story  to 
continue,  because  I  was  afraid  that  they  might  say  the 
snake  had  swallowed  both  oxen  and  perhaps  even  the 
wagon  at  the  same  time ! 

Not  many  years  ago  a  South  American  explorer  brought 
back  photographs  of  the  "trail"  made  by  a  huge  snake  in 
crawling  along  the  sand.  It  would  be  easy  to  manufacture 
such  a  trail  by  dragging  a  bag  full  of  sand  along  the  ground, 
and  while  it  is  impossible  to  say  that  this  was  really  done, 
such  a  photograph  would  be  of  no  value,  anyway,  as  it 
would  be  impossible  to  determine  the  size  of  the  reptile 
from  such  a  picture. 

In  this  way  the  evidence  of  the  existence  of  gigantic 
snakes  gradually  dwindles  away,  and  we  are  compelled  to 
look  for  material  on  which  we  can  lay  our  hands,  whereon 
to  base  our  knowledge.  That  is,  the  stories  of  the  average 


THE  ROOSEVELT  EXPEDITION  197 

traveller  and  native  as  well  must  not  be  taken  too  seriously; 
and  only  the  skins  or  living  specimens  known  to  exist  can 
be  taken  into  consideration. 

The  longest  South  American  snake  of  which  I  could  ob- 
tain any  definite  information  is  in  a  Brazilian  museum,  and 
was  said  to  be  about  twenty-five  feet  long.  A  skin  of  this 
size  may  be  stretched  several  feet  during  preparation,  so 
the  snake  may  have  been  somewhat  shorter  in  life.  In 
the  Bronx  Zoological  Gardens,  New  York,  there  is  a  living 
anaconda  fourteen  feet  long;  the  largest  boa  constrictor  is 
eleven  feet  in  length. 

No  visit  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  is  complete  without  an  in- 
spection of  the  botanical  gardens,  which  cannot  fail  to  ap- 
peal to  all  lovers  of  the  beautiful.  Immediately  upon  enter- 
ing, one  is  confronted  by  avenues  of  stately  royal  palms, 
ninety  to  one  hundred  feet  high.  The  "mother  of  the 
palms/'  towering  above  all  the  others,  is  pointed  out  with 
pride  by  the  gardeners.  It  is  said  that  this  was  the  first 
of  the  species  to  be  planted,  and  that  all  of  the  others  were 
grown  from  seed  taken  from  this  one  plant.  There  are  also 
attractive  little  lagoons  filled  with  flowering  pond-lilies  and 
fishes,  and  bordered  with  graceful  travellers'  palms  intro- 
duced from  Madagascar.  Rows  of  bamboo  form  sheltered 
lanes  where  the  visitor  may  seek  relief  on  comfortable 
benches  from  the  midday  sun. 

The  palace  Guanabara,  dating  back  to  the  time  of  Dom 
Pedro,  was  opened  for  the  use  of  Colonel  Roosevelt.  Its 
location  is  in  the  most  attractive  spot  imaginable.  Sitting 
at  the  table  in  the  immense  dining-room,  one  may  look 
down  a  palm-lined  avenue  to  the  blue  water  of  the  bay,  a 
half-mile  distant;  it  was  through  this  lane  of  tall,  beautiful 
trees  that  Isabella,  daughter  of  the  King,  drove  to  her  daily 
bath  in  the  surf. 

Acting  upon  the  invitation  of  officials  of  the  Brazilian 
Government,  Colonel  Roosevelt  abandoned  the  plans  he  had 
made  previously  and  changed  the  character  of  the  expedi- 
tion from  a  zoological  to  a  geographical  one.  Colonel  Ron- 


198  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

don,  who  had  been  engaged  some  years  in  making  a  survey 
through  Matto  Grosso  for  a  telegraph-line,  had  discovered 
the  headwaters  of  an  unmapped  river.  This  he  had  called 
the  Rio  da  Dumda,  or  River  of  Doubt,  for  no  one  knew 
whither  it  went.  The  invitation  to  explore  and  map 
this  stream  was  tendered  to  Colonel  Roosevelt,  and  he 
accepted  it. 

We  left  the  colonel  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  after  making 
arrangements  to  meet  subsequently,  and  continued  on  to 
Buenos  Aires,  spending  a  day  en  route  in  Santos,  and  one  in 
Montevideo,  the  capital  of  Uruguay. 

Although  we  had  read  and  heard  a  great  deal  about  the 
city  of  Buenos  Aires,  we  were  hardly  prepared  for  the 
pleasant  surprise  that  awaited  us.  The  population  of  this 
metropolis  of  the  south  is  more  than  a  million  and  a  half, 
and  the  city  presents  a  clean,  dignified  appearance.  In 
many  respects  it  is  as  modern  as  New  York  City.  There 
are  numbers  of  tall  edifices  patterned  after  our  own  sky- 
scrapers, large  hotels,  and  theatres.  An  electric  subway 
was  just  being  opened,  and  the  crowds  in  the  Calle  Florida 
in  the  late  afternoon  rival  those  of  Broadway.  The  climate 
is  cool  and  agreeable.  One  of  the  things  that  particularly 
attracted  our  attention  was  the  presence  one  day  of  swarms 
of  dragon-flies  flying  in  a  steady  stream  high  above  the 
city;  they  were  blown  in  by  violent  winds,  or  pamperos, 
which  sweep  across  the  level  plains  country,  and  gave  one 
the  impression  of  a  raging  snow-storm. 

As  Mr.  Cherrie  and  I  were  eager  to  devote  every  avail- 
able moment  to  zoological  work,  we  left  Fiala  and  Sigg, 
whose  duty  it  was  to  look  after  the  rather  appalling  amount 
of  luggage,  and  secured  passage  on  the  Argentine  North- 
western Railroad,  which  had  just  inaugurated  through  ser- 
vice to  Asuncion,  Paraguay.  We  took  only  the  small 
amount  of  equipment  necessary  for  few  weeks'  work,  as 
the  two  others  were  to  come  up  with  the  remainder  of  the 
baggage  on  the  first  available  freight-boat.  Our  train  was 
the  second  to  make  the  through  trip  and  was  scheduled  to 


THE  ROOSEVELT  EXPEDITION  199 

run  biweekly.  It  was  composed  of  seven  Pullmans,  two 
baggage,  and  a  dining  car;  the  service  was  good.  Leaving 
Buenos  Aires  on  the  afternoon  of  Sunday,  November  2,  we 
reached  Rosario  at  dark.  Here  the  train  was  run  onto  a 
steel  boat  and  carried  up-river  a  distance  of  sixty  miles, 
after  which  it  continued  the  journey  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Parana".  The  next  night  we  recrossed  the  river  on  a 
ferry,  and  were  landed  at  Encarnacion,  Paraguay.  Asun- 
cion was  reached  late  on  the  afternoon  of  Tuesday. 

The  railway  journey  had  been  through  level  plains,  in- 
terspersed at  long  intervals  with  small  clumps  and  strips  of 
low  woods;  but  it  is  essentially  a  grazing  country  and  we 
passed  numerous  herds  of  cattle  feeding  on  the  vast,  fence- 
enclosed  ranges.  Stalking  about  unconcernedly  among  the 
herds  were  small  bands  of  semi-domesticated  rheas,  but 
they  were  not  abundant;  I  doubt  if  we  saw  a  hundred  dur- 
ing the  entire  trip.  Caracaras,  or  carrion-hawks,  glossy 
ibises,  our  old  friends  the  jacanas,  which  resembled  huge 
grasshoppers  when  on  the  wing,  rails,  and  spur-wing  plovers, 
or  lapwings,  were  plentiful.  Frequently  we  saw  the  domed 
mud-nests  of  oven-birds  perched  upon  fence  or  telegraph- 
poles,  or  on  the  lower  branches  of  trees.  Villages  are  few 
and  far  between,  and  the  natives,  a  motley  crowd  of  dark- 
skinned  individuals,  usually  left  their  shambling,  grass- 
thatched  huts  and  came  down  en  masse  to  see  the  train. 

Asuncion  is  a  quaint  old  town,  plainly  showing  the  marks 
of  violence  that  have  been  left  by  frequent  revolutions. 
Mr.  Ferris,  the  American  consul,  who  met  us  at  the  station 
and  rendered  us  every  assistance  possible,  had  witnessed 
five  revolutions  in  as  many  years;  there  had  been  seven 
presidents  in  the  same  period  of  time.  The  streets  of  the 
city  are  narrow  and  paved  with  cobblestones;  the  buildings 
are  low,  constructed  of  adobe,  and  have  red-tile  roofs. 
There  are  one  or  two  banks,  a  college,  several  churches,  a 
public  market  and  good  hotels,  as  well  as  fair  electric  car 
and  light  service;  there  is  also  the  inevitable  lottery.  We 
noticed  little  business  activity.  An  air  of  depression  seemed 


200  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

to  hang  like  a  pall  over  the  people,  and  this  may  be  readily 
accounted  for  when  one  recalls  the  tragic  history  of  their 
country.  Many  of  the  women  were  in  deep  mourning. 
One  authority  estimated  that  the  proportion  of  women  to 
men  was  eleven  to  one,  although  this  is  probably  an  exag- 
geration. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  Asuncion  is  the 
market.  Paraguayan  lace  is  offered  for  sale  in  quantities. 
It  is  made  in  intricate  and  dainty  designs,  and  many  of  the 
pieces  consist  of  numerous  small  "wheels"  or  squares  that 
are  made  separately  and  then  united  to  form  collars,  hand- 
kerchiefs, or  covers.  One  is  astonished  at  the  quantity  of 
fruit  displayed;  oranges  are  brought  from  the  surrounding 
country  in  cars  and  barges,  and  shovelled,  like  coal,  into 
piles  or  carts.  Some  of  them  are  of  large  size,  delicate  tex- 
ture, and  excellent  flavor.  The  choicest  of  these  are  ex- 
ported and  may  be  purchased  in  Buenos  Aires  at  rather 
high  prices. 

After  spending  a  few  days  at  Asuncion  we  were  invited 
to  the  home  of  one  Professor  Fiebrig,  who  lives  at  Trinidad, 
a  few  miles  from  the  city.  Professor  Fiebrig  is  a  scientist 
of  more  than  local  note,  an  instructor  in  the  University  of 
Paraguay,  and  curator  of  the  museum.  While  journeying 
to  his  place  we  entered  into  conversation  with  two  Para- 
guayans, apparently  men  of  the  upper  class,  who  were  trav- 
elling in  the  same  car.  When  they  learned  our  identity  they 
shook  their  heads  in  a  pitying  and  condescending  manner. 
"How  sad,"  said  one  of  them;  "you  North  Americans  do 
nothing  but  pursue  the  almighty  dollar.  Now,  in  Paraguay 
we  live  for  art,  literature,  and  science."  We  had  visited 
the  natural  history  museum  in  Asuncion  a  few  days  before, 
and  had  taken  note  of  the  bullet-holes  in  the  walls,  the 
rents  made  in  the  stuffed  animals  by  bayonet  thrusts,  and 
other  marks  decidedly  not  of  an  artistic  or  scientific  nature. 

Our  first  zoological  work  was  done  in  the  country  near 
Trinidad.  All  about  were  tracts  of  land  of  considerable 
size,  covered  with  low  forest,  patches  of  brush  country, 


Camp  on  the  Rio  Negro  in  the  Gran  Chaco  of  the  Paraguay. 


Selling  oranges  in  the  market  at  Asuncion. 


THE  ROOSEVELT  EXPEDITION  201 

grassy  fields,  and  cultivated  plots.  Birds  were  plentiful, 
and  as  practically  all  of  them  were  new  to  us,  work  in  this 
region  was  doubly  interesting.  We  here  formed  our  first 
intimate  acquaintance  with  the  white  ani  (Guira),  member 
of  a  subfamily  of  cuckoos,  large  flocks  of  which  sat  like 
rows  of  beads  on  the  fronds  of  palm-trees.  They  are 
slender  birds,  about  fifteen  inches  long,  and  are  striped 
with  brown,  black,  and  white;  a  row  of  long,  narrow  feathers 
forms  a  high  crest.  They  remained  soberly  on  their  perches, 
awkwardly  jerked  their  tails  from  side  to  side,  and  mewed 
dolefully.  The  birds  seemed  utterly  out  of  place  among 
the  vivacious  tanagers,  creepers,  and  finches,  and  seemed 
to  belong  more  properly  to  some  remote  and  unrecorded 
past.  Their  flight  is  slow  and  uncertain,  the  birds  flapping 
their  wings  and  sailing  alternately;  when  alighting  they 
strike  a  most  ludicrous  pose  and  barely  avert  falling  over 
frontward  before  finally  securing  their  balance.  The  long 
tail  helps  the  bird  to  keep  its  equilibrium,  although  adding 
to  the  awkwardness  of  its  appearance.  The  bird  always 
gives  one  the  impression  of  being  exceedingly  miserable, 
and  particularly  so  during  cold,  rainy  weather.  Then  all 
the  members  of  the  flock  will  crowd  close  together  for 
warmth  and  protection,  often  placing  their  wings  over  one 
another  in  an  affectionate  manner,  and  even  standing  per- 
haps on  the  backs  of  their  companions.  On  account  of  its 
scanty  covering  of  feathers,  Guira  guira  is  not  well  suited  to 
resist  cold  weather.  When  the  breeding-season  arrives  a 
huge  nest  is  built  in  a  cactus  or  low  bush,  usually  at  no 
great  height  from  the  ground;  but  the  mass  of  sticks  is  not 
conspicuous,  despite  its  bulky  size.  Occasionally  a  number 
of  birds  occupy  the  same  nest,  when  many  eggs  are  laid; 
the  adults  keep  up  a  constant  wailing  and  shrieking  if  their 
domicile  is  approached. 

The  eggs  are  among  the  mpst  beautiful  laid  by  any  bird. 
They  are  elliptical  in  form  and  of  a  deep  turquoise  color, 
covered  with  a  lace-work  deposit  of  calcareous  material. 
As  incubation  advances  the  shell  becomes  stained  and  the 


202  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

white,  decorative  layer  wears  away  where  the  eggs  rub  to- 
gether. Then  the  heretofore  lovely  egg  bursts,  and  from 
it  emerges  the  ugliest  creature  imaginable.  Apparently  the 
natives  can  think  of  no  homelier  object,  for  when  they  wish 
to  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  one  of  their  neighbor's 
children  is  of  a  superlative  degree  of  ugliness,  they  call  it 
Pichdn  de  Urraca  (young  urraca). 

Mammalian  life  was  scarce,  but  considering  the  short 
time  available,  a  comparatively  representative  collection 
was  made,  including  specimens  of  a  small  gray  wolf  (Cer- 
docyon),  which  roamed  singly  and  in  pairs  in  the  country 
bordering  the  Paraguay  River.  A  few  rabbits  and  opos- 
sums visited  the  mandioc-fields  at  night  to  feed  upon  the 
succulent  tubers.  We  had  abundant  opportunities  to  ob- 
serve the  rural  populace  in  the  vicinity  of  Trinidad.  They 
are  of  a  rather  unambitious  type,  and  seemed  contented 
only  when  taking  their  noonday  nap  or  siesta,  or  while 
drinking  mate.  The  general  language  of  Paraguay  is 
GuaranI,  although  Spanish  is  used  by  the  upper  classes. 

"Yerba  mate*"  is  the  modern  name  for  the  cad  guazti  of 
the  GuaranI.  It  is  applied  to  the  dried  leaves  of  a  species 
of  South  American  holly  (Ilex)  growing  abundantly  in  parts 
of  Brazil,  Argentina,  and  Paraguay.  The  tree  is  very  bushy 
and  beautiful,  and  remains  green  the  year  around;  the 
leaves  are  small,  and  those  of  a  light-green  color  make  the 
best  quality  of  tea.  Several  methods  are  employed  in 
gathering  the  leaves:  one  is  to  cut  down  the  branches,  pile 
them  into  huge  stacks,  and  apply  heat  for  about  twenty- 
four  hours,  when  they  are  dry  and  ready  for  the  next  stage 
of  manufacture,  consisting  of  pulverization.  The  heating 
and  drying  process  is  known  as  torrefaction.  In  preparing 
the  beverage  a  quantity  of  the  powdered  leaves,  and  sortie- 
times  sugar,  also,  are  placed  in  a  small,  hollowed  gourd, 
and  the  container  is  then  filled  with  boiling  water.  The 
liquor  is  taken  through  a  metal  tube  called  bombilla,  with 
a  hollow,  spoon-shaped  expansion  filled  with  small  holes 
on  the  end  that  is  placed  in  the  gourd.  It  is  customary  to 


THE  ROOSEVELT  EXPEDITION  203 

refill  the  container  with  water  many  times  before  recharg- 
ing it  with  leaves,  and  to  pass  it  around  among  all  the  mem- 
bers of  a  family  and  any  guests  who  chance  to  be  present. 
Everybody  drinks  in  turn  from  the  same  mate  and  tube. 
A  kettle  of  boiling  water  is  kept  on  a  charcoal  brazier  near 
at  hand.  Some  of  the  containers  or  mate's  are  very  elabo- 
rate affairs,  made  of  pure  silver  and  elegantly  carved  or 
chased. 

The  amount  of  yerba  mate  consumed  annually  is  enor- 
mous. It  is  estimated  that  no  less  than  ten  millions  of 
persons  in  South  America  indulge  in  the  habit.  In  Chile 
the  annual  consumption  per  capita  is  about  one  hundred 
and  twelve  pounds;  in  Paraguay  thirty-four  pounds,  and 
hi  the  Argentine  twenty  pounds.  Quantities  of  it  are  also 
exported,  principally  to  Holland.  Some  years  the  supply 
falls  short  of  the  demand,  but  plantations  have  added  very 
materially  to  the  available  wild  growth. 

Yerba  mate  has  much  in  common  with  both  tea  and 
coffee,  but  does  not  contain  as  much  tannin  as  either;  of 
caffein  it  contains  about  as  much  as  coffee,  and  this  imparts 
to  it  the  sustaining  virtues.  In  many  parts  of  the  mate- 
drinking  belt  the  beverage  only  is  taken  for  breakfast,  and 
I  have  seen  a  man  in  western  Argentina  take  thirty-two 
mat£fuls  in  rapid  succession.  The  flavor  is  very  agreeable 
and  not  unlike  that  of  rather  strong  tea. 

After  spending  a  few  days  at  Trinidad  we  returned  to 
Asuncion.  A  launch  was  placed  at  our  disposal,  through 
the  courtesy  of  the  President  of  the  republic,  and  on  No- 
vember 11  we  started  on  a  short  voyage  up  the  Rio  Pil- 
comayo,  into  the  Gran  Chaco  of  Paraguay.  Several  men 
had  been  sent  with  us  to  look  after  the  luggage,  which  was 
carried  in  a  separate  boat  towed  behind  the  launch,  and 
three  local  naturalists,  representing  the  museum  of  Asun- 
cion, went  along  to  collect  specimens  for  their  institution. 

The  Pilcomayo  is  a  river  of  great  size,  coming  from  the 
northeast  and  emptying  into  the  Paraguay  a  short  distance 
above  Asuncion.  The  greater  part  of  its  course  is  in  the 


204  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Gran  Chaco,  a  wild,  uninviting  region  inhabited  by  savage 
Indian  tribes,  and  of  the  interior  of  which  practically  noth- 
ing is  known.  We  proceeded  up  the  river  but  a  compara- 
tively short  distance  to  the  little  settlement  of  Porto  Galli- 
leo,  the  headquarters  of  a  concern  engaged  in  extracting 
tannin  from  quebracho-logs.  A  comfortable  home  had 
been  erected  for  the  management,  and  their  attention  and 
courtesy  were  most  touching.  They  were  a  polyglot  com- 
munity, consisting  of  a  Frenchman,  a  Brazilian,  a  Swede, 
an  Argentinian,  a  Paraguayan,  and  a  German.  However, 
they  lived  on  the  friendliest  possible  terms,  and  all  co-op- 
erated for  the  general  good  of  the  company.  We  came  un- 
expectedly, so  no  preparations  had  been  made  for  our  ac- 
commodation; but  each  man  had  a  private  store  of  treasured 
articles  from  home  hidden  away  somewhere,  and  before  long 
one  brought  sheets,  another  blankets,  a  third  monogrammed 
towels,  etc.,  until  we  were  as  comfortably  provided  for  as 
any  one  could  wish.  The  men  were  very  fond  of  a  pet 
jaguar  which  they  had  taken  when  a  cub,  but  as  the  animal 
grew  older  its  temper  became  uncertain,  so  it  was  necessary 
to  confine  it  in  a  barred  cage.  Its  wild  brethren  came  from 
the  forest  at  night  to  pay  it  a  short  visit  occasionally,  as 
attested  by  the  footprints  left  in  the  soft  ground  near  the 
cage. 

The  factory  at  Porto  Gallileo  for  the  manufacture  of  tan- 
nin was  of  considerable  size.  Upon  arrival  from  the  forest 
the  trees  were  stripped  of  bark,  ground,  and  boiled  in  huge 
vats.  The  extract  was  boiled  down  to  a  concentrate  and 
pressed  into  small  cakes;  it  is  very  valuable  in  tanning  hides, 
and  its  use  shortens  the  time  usually  required  for  the  proc- 
ess. A  number  of  valuable  by-products  are  also  obtained, 
including  dyestuffs. 

A  narrow-gauge  railway  line  was  being  built  farther  and 
farther  into  the  interior  as  the  land  was  cleared;  this  had 
been  completed  a  distance  of  fifteen  kilometers,  and  the 
road-bed  was  in  course  of  construction  for  forty  additional 
kilometres,  The  morning  after  our  arrival  at  Porto  Galli- 


A  street  in  Buenos  Aires. 


Porto  Gallileo  on  the  Rio  Pilcomayo. 


THE  ROOSEVELT  EXPEDITION  205 

leo  we  proceeded  to  the  end. of  the  line  on  the  daily  work- 
train,  and  pitched  camp  on  the  bank  of  a  small  stream,  the 
Rio  Negro. 

Our  camp  was  merely  a  rough  shed  built  of  sheets  of 
corrugated  iron  supported  on  poles  driven  into  the  ground. 
The  river-water  was  salt  and  unfit  for  use,  so  each  morning 
several  large  jugs  of  fresh  drinking-water  were  sent  in  from 
Porto  Gallileo,  together  with  a  supply  of  provisions.  All 
about  lay  marshes,  swamps,  and  large  grass-covered  areas, 
the  latter  type  of  country  predominating. 

The  Rio  Negro  teemed  with  a  species  of  piranha.  They 
are  deep-bodied  and  blunt-nosed,  and  the  jaws  are  armed 
with  sharp,  triangular  teeth.  Although  they  grow  to  a 
length  of  eighteen  inches  in  the  Orinoco  and  some  of  the 
other  large  South  American  rivers,  those  we  found  in  the 
Rio  Negro  did  not  exceed  eight  inches  in  length;  but  they 
travelled  in  enormous  schools,  and  made  up  in  numbers 
what  they  lacked  in  size.  During  the  hours  of  late  after- 
noon, when  our  day's  work  was  over,  I  tried  many  experi- 
ments with  the  piranhas.  They  have  a  bad  reputation  and 
are  known  to  attack  animals  much  larger  than  themselves, 
and  even  human  beings  who  enter  the  water.  Usually  they 
are  slow  to  attack  unless  their  appetite  has  been  whetted 
by  a  taste  of  blood  from  a  wound;  then,  however,  their 
work  is  done  with  lightning-like  quickness,  and  unless  the 
luckless  victim  succeeds  in  reaching  the  shore  immediately 
nothing  but  the  skeleton  will  remain  within  a  very  short 
time.  If  I  fished  with  a  hook  and  line  baited  with  any 
kind  of  raw  meat  the  fish  would  scarcely  wait  for  the  bait 
to  sink  below  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  number  caught 
depended  entirely  upon  the  amount  of  time  spent  in  fish- 
ing. The  bodies  of  large  mammals,  such  as  monkeys,  after 
we  had  skinned  them,  were  thrown  into  the  stream;  in- 
stantly the  ravenous  hordes  charged  the  spot  and  tore 
greedily  at  the  bloody  flesh;  so  great  were  their  numbers 
that  they  threw  one  another  out  of  the  water  in  their  mad 
struggles  to  reach  the  gory  repast.  On  several  occasions 


206  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

I  threw  dead  or  stunned  individuals  of  their  species  into 
the  midst  of  the  frenzied  mob,  but,  strange  to  relate,  they 
floated  on  the  surface  of  the  water  untouched.  Unplucked 
birds  were  not  molested,  either.  A  struggle  in  the  water 
seems  to  attract  the  fish,  but  I  must  admit  that  their  be- 
havior is  very  erratic.  While  washing  my  hands  in  the 
edge  of  the  stream  one  day  a  piranha  snapped  a  piece  out 
of  a  finger;  a  few  days  later  a  man  in  passing  over  the  river 
on  a  bridge  dropped  his  purse  into  the  water  in  almost  the 
exact  spot  where  I  fished,  and  where  the  piranhas  were 
most  abundant;  he  stripped,  waded  out  very  slowly  and 
cautiously  so  as  not  to  create  a  disturbance,  and  felt  about 
with  his  toes  for  the  lost  article;  although  the  water  was 
over  four  feet  deep  and  he  remained  in  it  fully  fifteen  min- 
utes, he  remained  untouched. 

It  is  in  the  dark  swamps  dotting  the  chaco  like  low, 
glossy  islands  that  the  precious  quebracho-trees  grow.  It 
was  also  from  these  same  swamps  that  clouds  of  ravenous 
mosquitoes  issued  with  the  first  signs  of  failing  daylight, 
and  drove  us  to  the  refuge  of  our  net-covered  hammocks. 
There  we  sweltered  through  the  long  hours  of  the  night, 
listening  to  the  angry  buzzing  of  our  outwitted  assailants, 
which  was  not  unlike  the  sound  produced  by  a  swarm  of 
enraged  bees.  I  could  distinguish  a  number  of  different 
pitches  and  qualities  in  the  music,  blending  harmoniously 
in  one  general  chorus.  The  varying  size  of  the  insects, 
which  ranged  from  individuals  nearly  an  inch  long  to  the 
small  infection-bearing  Anopheles,  doubtless  accounts  for 
the  different  tones  produced  by  the  vibrations  of  the  wings. 
Brockets  were  seen  occasionally;  they  left  the  forest  morn- 
ing and  night  to  feed.  In  the  tall  pampas-grass  cavies 
abounded.  They  came  out  into  the  opening  beside  the 
railroad  just  before  sunrise  and  ran  about,  or  sat  motion- 
less, when  they  resembled  clods  of  earth  or  shadows.  Oce- 
lots had  worn  well-defined  paths  through  the  fields  in 
their  nightly  raids  on  the  cavy  community.  In  the  trees 
we  found  black  howlers,  night-monkeys,  and  giant  weasels 


•3 

£ 


THE  ROOSEVELT  EXPEDITION  207 

(Tayrd)}  opossums  and  various  species  of  small  rodents 
held  sway  on  the  ground. 

While  there  was  no  scarcity  of  birds,  they  were  largely 
species  already  known  to  us,  and  one  day  one  of  the  men 
brought  in  an  anaconda  ten  feet  long,  that  he  found  bask- 
ing on  the  river-bank. 

After  spending  a  week  on  the  Rio  Negro  we  returned  to 
Asuncion,  where  we  were  joined  by  the  commissaries  who 
had  just  arrived  with  the  equipment.  Two  days  later  we 
boarded  the  comfortable  little  steamer  Asuncion  and  started 
for  Corumba. 

The  four  and  a  half  days'  trip  up  the  Paraguay  was  most 
interesting,  although  the  heat  and  insects  at  times  were 
troublesome.  We  had  entered  the  great  pantanal  country, 
and  the  vast  marshes  teemed  with  bird-life.  As  the  Asun- 
cion fought  the  strong  current  and  moved  slowly  onward 
countless  thousands  of  cormorants  and  anhingas  took  wing; 
lining  the  pools  and  dotting  the  marshes  were  hordes  of 
wood  and  scarlet  ibises,  together  with  a  sprinkling  of  herons 
and  spoonbills;  egrets  covered  the  small  clumps  of  trees  as 
with  a  mantle  of  snowy  white,  and  long  rows  of  jabiru  storks 
patrolled  both  shores.  Scarcely  a  moment  passed  in  which 
we  did  not  see  hundreds  of  birds.  Some  of  the  passengers 
were  armed  with  rifles  and  revolvers,  with  which  they  kept 
up  more  or  less  of  a  fusillade  on  the  feathered  folk;  but  for- 
tunately their  aim  was  poor  so  that  little  injury  was  in- 
flicted. 

The  day  before  reaching  Corumbd,  we  passed  an  interest- 
ing old  landmark.  It  is  the  fort  of  Coimbra,  built  on  a 
rocky  hillside  with  a  cluster  of  thatch-roofed  huts  nestling 
against  the  base.  As  Coimbra  is  near  the  Bolivian  border, 
the  fort  figured  prominently  in  several  of  the  bloody  con- 
troversies of  bygone  years  between  the  neighboring  re- 
publics. 


CHAPTER  XIV 
HUNTING  EXCURSIONS  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY 

CORUMBA  is  a  very  hot,  dusty  town  built  on  a  high, 
rocky  elevation  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Paraguay.  The 
settlement  bears  the  unenviable  reputation  of  being  the 
rendezvous  for  fugitives  from  justice  from  many  climates, 
but  we  saw  nothing  of  the  lawlessness  and  disorder  said  to 
prevail,  and  the  treatment  we  received  was  all  that  could 
be  desired.  The  heat  at  midday  was  great,  but  frequently 
a  breeze  came  up  at  night.  Rows  of  low,  spreading  mimosa- 
trees  lined  some  of  the  streets  and  cast  a  welcome  shade; 
then-  branches  were  covered  with  clumps  of  gorgeous  scarlet 
flowers. 

A  railroad  in  course  of  construction  will  soon  connect 
Corumba  with  Rio  de  Janeiro.  There  is  also  a  cart  trail 
leading  through  the  heart  of  the  chaco  to  Santa  Cruz,  Bo- 
livia; to  travel  over  it  is  a  difficult  undertaking,  the  ox- 
drawn  carts  requiring  a  minimum  of  thirty  days  for  the 
trip.  During  the  rainy  season  a  large  part  of  the  country 
is  inundated,  when  the  caravans  must,  of  course,  suspend 
then*  activity.  I  met  two  men  who  had  made  this  journey 
but  a  short  time  before.  One  night  a  party  of  Indians  at- 
tacked and  killed  all  the  members  of  a  caravan,  stopping 
only  a  half-mile  distant  from  the  spot  where  one  of  these 
men  and  his  family  had  made  their  camp.  The  tribes  along 
this  route  are  the  Penoquies,  Guaranokas,  and  Potoreras, 
and  they  are  said  to  be  of  a  treacherous,  hostile  disposition. 

As  there  was  little  zoological  work  to  be  done  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Corumbd,  we  moved  to  a  place 
called  Urucum,  about  nine  miles  away.  The  road  lay 
through  scrub  growth  and  forest,  and  was  all  but  impassa- 
ble on  account  of  the  deep  mud  and  rocks.  Numbers  of 
native  cabins  are  scattered  along  the  wayside;  some  of  the 

208 


HUNTING  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY       209 

occupants  conduct  dairy-farms,  and  the  cows  carry  bells 
tied  to  the  tips  of  their  horns. 

Urucum  proved  to  be  a  garden  spot  of  clear,  cold  springs, 
shady  groves,  and  plantations  of  tropical  fruits  and  vege- 
tables. In  the  centre  of  all  stood  comfortable  cottages 
with  large,  well-ventilated  rooms  and  delightful  shower- 
baths.  Fields  and  forested  hillsides,  marshes,  and  lagoons 
were  easy  of  access;  in  them  dwelt  an  abundant  and  varied 
fauna.  A  grove  of  magnificent  mango-trees  grew  near  the 
house  that  had  been  assigned  for  our  use;  hundreds  of  bats 
came  to  the  trees  each  morning  just  as  dawn  was  breaking, 
to  seek  their  diurnal  sleeping-quarters  among  the  dense 
foliage.  They  arrived  in  unbroken  streams  and  spent  a 
great  deal  of  time  whirring  through  the  branches,  squeaking 
and  making  queer  little  noises  that  sounded  as  if  they  were 
grating  their  teeth.  Then  they  finally  settled  in  clusters 
of  from  six  to  a  dozen  individuals  in  some  particularly  thick 
clump  of  leaves  and,  suspended  by  the  claws  of  their  hind 
feet,  began  their  daytime  slumbers.  On  windy  or  rainy 
days  they  lost  little  time  in  becoming  settled,  and  did  not 
seek  the  swaying  branches,  but  clung  to  the  tree-trunks 
or  on  the  under-side  of  the  thick  limbs.  This  species  of  bat 
(Vampyrops  lineatus)  has  a  leaf -shaped  appendage  on  top 
of  the  nose  which  may  be  of  some  use  to  the  animal,  but  is 
probably  of  little  consequence.  This  "leaf,"  the  nose  and 
face,  including  the  tips  of  the  ears,  were  tinged  with  delicate 
green.  As  the  bats  hung  head  downward,  the  green-tinted 
extremity  naturally  pointed  toward  the  earth;  but  if  the 
color  was  intended  as  a  protection  it  was  of  little  or  no  avail, 
as  it  could  not  be  seen  unless  the  animal  was  examined  at 
close  range.  Other  individuals  of  the  same  species  were 
collected  in  a  dark  cave  in  the  near-by  mountains.  They, 
however,  showed  only  a  very  faint  or  no  trace  at  all  of  the 
green  coloring  on  the  face.  I  am  convinced  that  this  color 
is  not  a  vegetable  stain,  but  that  the  pigment  exists  in  the 
skin;  it  fades  soon  after  death. 

A  footpath  leading  through  the  forest  a  distance  of  sev- 


210  IN  THE  WILDS  OP  SOUTH  AMERICA 

eral  miles  ended  at  a  manganese-mine  which  penetrated 
into  the  mountainside  about  three  hundred  feet.  Although 
the  mine  had  been  by  no  means  exhausted,  it  was  no  longer 
worked,  owing  to  the  great  expense  of  transporting  the 
ore.  The  dark,  deserted  tunnel  was  an  ideal  resort  for 
bats  of  not  less  than  four  species;  one  of  them  (Mimon  ben- 
netti)  was  of  considerable  size.  We  entered  the  mine  with 
a  lighted  candle,  but  the  bats  invariably  soon  put  out  the 
light  with  their  wings.  Each  kind,  it  seemed,  occupied  a 
different  part  of  the  tunnel.  At  first  they  were  slow  to 
leave  their  places  of  concealment  in  the  crevices  between 
the  rocks,  but  after  a  few  days7  persecution  numbers  of 
them  rushed  from  the  mine  and  disappeared  over  the  top 
of  the  mountain  at  the  mere  appearance  of  the  lighted  can- 
dle in  the  entrance.  The  men  who  accompanied  me  on 
these  excursions  refused  to  enter  the  dark  opening  in  the 
mountainside,  as  they  said  it  was  infested  with  poisonous 
snakes;  but,  although  we  explored  it  thoroughly  on  several 
occasions,  not  a  single  reptile  was  ever  seen. 

In  walking  through  the  forest  we  always  saw  animals 
that  were  of  more  than  passing  interest.  One  day  I  sur- 
prised a  tiger-cat  in  the  trail;  it  ran  a  few  yards  and  then 
started  up  a  tree,  rapidly  climbing  about  twenty-five  feet, 
and  then  clung  to  the  rough  bark;  it  remained  perfectly 
motionless  and  permitted  me  to  walk  up  to  within  a  short 
distance  of  the  base  of  the  tree.  A  short  time  later  I  came 
upon  two  cebus  monkeys  feeding  in  the  branches  above  the 
trail.  I  shot  at  one  of  them,  wounding  it.  The  other  was 
fully  ten  yards  away,  but  rushed  to  the  rescue,  and  taking 
up  the  wounded  animal  started  off  with  it  at  a  rapid  pace. 
Most  South  American  monkeys  will  promptly  desert  a 
comrade  in  danger  or  trouble,  but  in  this  instance  it  was  a 
female  with  her  two-thirds-grown  offspring,  and  the  mother- 
love  was  so  much  stronger  than  her  fear  that  she  exposed 
herself  to  danger  without  hesitation,  in  saving  her  distressed 
young. 

One  of  the  most  surprising  animals  encountered  in  the 


HUNTING  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY       211 

forest  was  a  large,  red,  hairy  armadillo  (Euphractus) .  It 
sprang  up  suddenly,  almost  beneath  one's  feet,  and  bounded 
away  with  such  great  speed  that  it  always  reminded  me  of 
a  boulder  hurtling  down  a  hillside.  Within  a  few  moments 
it  was  lost  from  view  among  the  undergrowth,  but  the 
bumping  noise  as  it  struck  the  earth  at  each  jump  could  be 
heard  for  some  time  after  the  animal  had  disappeared.  At 
night  these  armadillos  came  out  into  the  clearings  and  did 
a  great  deal  of  damage  in  the  fields  newly  planted  in  corn. 
We  desired  to  trap  some  of  the  creatures,  so,  following  the 
advice  of  the  natives,  we  cleared  a  path  one  thousand  metres 
long  and  one  metre  wide  on  the  edge  of  the  field,  and  next 
to  the  forest.  Four  salt-barrels  were  sunk  in  this  cleared 
lane,  their  tops  flush  with  the  earth;  then  we  covered  the 
openings  with  a  thin  layer  of  dried  grass.  Grains  of  corn 
were  strewn  all  along  the  cleared  stretch,  and  a  liberal 
amount  was  sprinkled  on  the  grass  covering  the  pits.  The 
armadillos,  in  their  nocturnal  excursions  from  and  to  the 
forest,  were  attracted  by  the  line  of  corn  and  followed  it, 
eating  the  kernels  as  they  went;  when  they  arrived  at  one 
of  the  barrels  they  plunged  into  it  and  were  unable  to 
clamber  out.  We  caught  several  in  this  manner.  One  of 
them  was  despatched  to  the  Bronx  Zoological  Park,  but  it 
died  en  route.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  after  the  arma- 
dillos fell  into  the  barrels,  which  contained  no  wooden  bot- 
toms, they  made  no  attempt  to  burrow  out.  Their  long 
claws  and  strong  limbs  enable  them  to  dig  with  ease  and 
rapidity.  When  cornered  they  fight  viciously  with  the 
claws  and  teeth  and  are  capable  of  inflicting  dangerous 
wounds. 

One  of  the  owners  of  Uruciim  stated  that  at  one  time  he 
owned  a  pet  jaguar  that  subsisted  entirely  on  armadillos 
caught  in  the  manner  described  above.  The  flesh  is  es- 
teemed by  the  people,  also. 

On  several  occasions  we  saw  the  gaping  entrance  to  the 
tunnel  of  a  Tatu  canasto,  or  giant  armadillo,  but  at  no  time 
did  we  have  a  glimpse  of  its  occupant.  This  is  one  of  the 


212  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

curious,  archaic  creatures  persisting,  together  with  the 
giant  ant-bear,  sloth,  and  hoatzin,  long  after  the  star  of 
their  age  has  passed  its  zenith.  Apparently  they  were  not 
at  all  uncommon,  for  we  saw  scores  of  the  enormous  cara- 
paces, looking  like  casques  of  armor,  in  the  curio-shops  at 
Asuncion.  The  animal  is  fully  four  feet  long,  and  weighs 
upward  of  sixty  pounds.  A  single  claw  that  I  found  on 
the  Upper  Orinoco  was  seven  inches  long. 

Another  visitor  to  the  plantations  was  a  kind  of  small, 
red  forest-deer  or  brocket  (Mazama)  with  single-spike  horns. 
They  spent  the  days  in  the  heavy  timber  or  dense,  low 
thickets  and  wild  banana-brakes.  They  were  particularly 
fond  of  growing  beans  and  destroyed  quantities  of  the  leg- 
umes in  a  single  night.  The  natives'  way  of  ridding  them- 
selves of  the  plunderer  is  to  erect  a  high  platform  on  poles 
in  the  centre  of  the  field,  commanding  a  view  on  all  sides, 
and  then  shoot  the  animal  as  it  emerges  from  its  hiding- 
place. 

We  also  secured  a  good  specimen  of  one  of  the  rarest  ani- 
mals found  in  South  America.  It  is  the  red  wolf  (Chryso- 
cyon),  or  guaraguasu,  of  the  Brazilians.  However,  very 
little  is  known  of  the  animal's  habits  even  by  the  Indians 
and  natives  who  are  usually  so  prolific  with  stories  about  the 
wild  creatures  coming  under  their  observation.  My  own 
experience  is  limited  to  two  fleeting  glances  of  the  huge  red 
forms  dashing  away  at  breakneck  speed  several  hundred 
yards  distant,  and  to  hearing  the  weird,  strange  wail  at 
night.  It  equals  or  exceeds  in  size  the  gray  wolf  of  our 
north  woods.  It  is  said  to  live  singly,  frequenting  the 
chapadao  and  papyrus  marshes,  and  to  travel  great  dis- 
tances in  quest  of  rabbits,  cavies,  and  other  small  mammals 
that  form. its  principal  items  of  food. 

There  were  also  peccaries,  black  howler  monkeys  and 
marmosettes,  and  among  the  smaller  mammals  living  in 
the  deep  forest  was  a  curious  little  woolly  opossum  (Meta- 
chirus)  that  ventured  out  only  after  dark  in  search  of  fruits, 
insects,  birds,  or  almost  anything  of  an  edible  nature.  It 


HUNTING  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY       213 

is  essentially  an  animal  of  the  deep  shadows;  if  taken  out 
into  the  brilliant  sunshine  it  dies  within  a  very  short  time. 
Frequently  our  traps  were  sprung  by  black  lizards  three  or 
four  feet  long  (Draccena) ;  they  fought  fiercely  and  clung 
tenaciously  to  a  stick  or  other  object  within  their  reach. 
Their  teeth  are  so  strong  that  they  scratched  the  steel  bar- 
rel of  a  shotgun.  Rattlesnakes  were  not  rare  in  the  open 
country,  but  they  were  of  small  size;  I  saw  none  more  than 
three  feet  long. 

Among  the  hosts  of  birds  parrakeets  were  by  far  the  most 
abundant.  They  came  to  the  mango-trees  by  hundreds 
and  were  so  noisy  that  they  became  a  decided  nuisance. 
In  feeding  they  frequently  took  a  bite  or  two  out  of  a  fruit 
and  then,  letting  it  fall,  proceeded  to  another.  In  this  way 
a  great  amount  was  wasted,  but  the  people  were  good- 
natured  over  the  matter  and  doubtless  realized  that  there 
was  fruit  enough  for  all,  as  they  never  molested  the  parra- 
keets. Many  of  the  birds  were  nesting.  A  red-breasted 
thrush  (Planesticus) ,  not  unlike  the  robin,  had  its  mud  and 
grass  nest  in  the  low  crotch  of  a  tree  on  the  edge  of  the 
forest,  but  the  three  eggs  were  heavily  speckled  with  rusty 
brown  instead  of  being  of  a  plain-blue  color.  There  were 
cunning  little  pigmy  owls  in  the  brush-patches,  but  in  spite 
of  their  small  size  they  are  very  bold  and  ferocious  and  kill 
birds  nearly  as  large  as  themselves.  In  turn  they  are 
preyed  upon  by  members  of  their  own  family.  Some  of 
the  larger  owls  habitually  catch  small  owls  whenever  possi- 
ble. One  day  my  attention  was  attracted  by  a  commotion 
in  a  clump  of  dense  bushes  and,  as  I  neared  the  spot,  an 
owl  of  moderate  size  (Ciccabd)  made  a  number  of  attempts 
to  fly  up  from  the  ground,  but  apparently  it  was  carrying 
something  too  heavy  to  permit  it  to  fly.  Finally  it  deserted 
the  object  and  flew  to  a  branch  a  few  yards  away.  Going 
to  the  spot,  I  found  a  screech  owl  with  a  portion  of  its  head 
eaten  away.  Pigmy  owls  are  eagerly  sought  for  by  the 
natives.  They  become  very  tame  and  are  supposed  to 
bring  good  luck  to  their  owners.  We  had  brought  a  small 


214  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

owl  of  another  species  with  us  which  had  been  named 
"Moses."  When  we  found  him  in  the  market  at  Asuncion 
he  was  a  forlorn  and  hungry  little  creature,  but  showed 
such  a  friendly  disposition  that  he  was  promptly  pur- 
chased and  soon  became  the  very  popular  mascot  of  the 
expedition.  At  Urucum  Moses  was  given  his  liberty 
among  the  rafters  of  our  home;  he  walked  about  gravely 
overhead  and  came  down  only  when  hungry  or  when  the 
half-filled  wash-basin  lured  him  to  the  delights  of  a  cool 
bath.  Sometimes  I  put  him  out  in  a  tree  for  an  airing,  but 
carnivorous  ants  were  abundant  and  nearly  always  discov- 
ered him  before  very  long;  then  he  danced  about,  clattered 
with  his  bill,  and  made  queer  little  cooing  noises  until  I 
rescued  him. 

We  spent  nearly  three  weeks  at  Uructim.  They  passed 
very  quickly,  for  Urucum  is  one  of  those  delightful  places 
found  all  too  rarely  in  South  America.  Word  reached  us 
that  Colonel  Roosevelt  and  his  Brazilian  escort  had  reached 
Corumbd,  so  we  hastened  back  to  town;  there  we  met  the 
entire  party  and  made  the  acquaintance  of  Colonel  Rondon 
and  the  other  members  of  the  Brazilian  Commission. 

A  hunting-trip  on  the  Taquary  had  been  planned  to  secure 
some  of  the  large  game  that  is  found  in  the  region.  De- 
cember 16,  therefore,  found  the  hunting-party  aboard  the 
Nyoac.  This  boat,  which  was  a  river  steamer  of  consider- 
able size,  had  been  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  expedition 
by  the  government,  and  served  as  our  "home"  during  the 
weeks  that  followed,  until  we  reached  Porto  Campo.  Be- 
sides Colonel  Roosevelt,  there  were  on  board  Colonel  Can- 
dido  Mariano  da  Silva  Rondon,  Kermit  Roosevelt,  Captain 
Amilcar  de  Magalhaes,  a  photographer,  physician,  taxider- 
mist, and  myself.  Mr.  Cherrie  had  returned  to  Urucum 
to  finish  the  work  in  that  locality,  and  Mr.  Fiala  remained 
in  Corumbd  to  complete  the  examination  of  the  enormous 
amount  of  impedimenta  which  he  had  so  ably  brought  to- 
gether. 

The  Nyoac  steamed  up  the  Paraguay  a  few  hours,  and 


S.  S.  Nyoac  on  the  Paraguay  River. 


Corumbd. 


HUNTING  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY       215 

then  turned  into  the  mouth  of  the  Taquary.  The  water  of 
the  latter  river  being  pretty  low,  a  steam-launch  was  towed 
along  as  a  precaution;  should  the  steamer  become  stranded 
it  would  have  been  possible  to  proceed  on  the  launch.  We 
had  been  travelling  but  a  short  time,  when  cries  from  mem- 
bers of  the  crew  drew  our  attention  to  the  water;  and  there, 
where  the  launch  had  been  but  a  moment  before,  were  only 
a  few  sticks  of  fire-wood  floating  on  the  water.  A  man  had 
been  placed  aboard  the  smaller  craft  to  operate  the  steering- 
gear;  he  had  fallen  asleep  at  his  post,  and  in  rounding  a 
sharp  bend  the  launch  had  capsized  and  sunk.  We  spent 
several  hours  trying  to  drag  the  submerged  boat  to  the 
bank,  but  the  task  had  to  be  abandoned,  and  the  launch 
was  left — a  total  loss. 

There  were  scores  of  caimans  along  the  Taquary.  As 
these  reptiles  are  justly  classed  as  vermin  they  may  be 
destroyed  on  sight.  Frequently  rows  of  them  dotted  the 
edges  of  the  sand-banks,  lying  with  wide-open  mouths.  A 
shot  in  the  head  was  instantly  fatal,  and  the  only  move- 
ment perceptible  was  the  sudden  closing  of  the  mouth  as 
the  bullet  went  home.  Crocodiles  frequently  enter  the  for- 
est to  quite  some  distance  from  the  water;  I  know  of  no 
more  repulsive  sight  than  to  come  suddenly  upon  one  of  the 
huge  saurians  lying  quietly  in  wait  among  the  shadows; 
the  evil,  grinning  expression;  the  leering  green  eyes  and 
the  glistening,  scaly  body  of  the  creature  suggest  treachery 
and  cruelty  combined  with  agility  and  cunning.  One  of 
the  reptiles  that  we  saw  had  cornered  a  school  of  fish  in  a 
small  inlet,  blocking  the  entrance  with  its  body.  As  the 
frantic  fish  tried  to  escape  by  jumping  out  of  the  water 
and  over  the  obstruction,  the  crocodile  caught  them  in 
mid-air  and  swallowed  them. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  saw  a  giant  ant-eater  galloping 
across  a  grassy  field.  The  steamer  was  brought  to  the 
bank  instantly  and  a  hunting-party  with  dogs  landed. 
Soon  the  animal  was  brought  to  bay  and  shot.  When  it 
was  brought  aboard  darkness  had  set  in,  so  no  photograph 


216  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

could  be  made  of  it,  and  as  game  spoils  within  a  few  hours 
in  the  damp,  hot  climate,  the  animal  could  not  be  left  until 
morning.  We  took  the  necessary  measurements,  skinned 
the  creature,  and  then  spread  the  hide  out  on  the  upper 
deck.  Later  we  found  that  the  tamandua  bandado,  as  it 
is  called,  was  not  at  all  rare  in  the  pantanales.  This  oc- 
casioned some  surprise,  as  a  great  deal  of  this  country  is 
marshy  and  there  are  consequently  few  termites,  on  which 
it  was  thought  to  feed  exclusively.  Recent  observations  by 
Mr.  Cherrie,  however,  explain  why  this  animal  can  exist  in 
the  pantanal  type  of  country.  He  found  it  climbing  trees 
and  devouring  the  soft  part  of  nestling  birds,  both  of  which 
acts  are  about  the  last  things  one  would  expect  of  such  a 
highly  specialized  animal. 

The  tamandua  bandado  stands  about  two  feet  high  and 
is  six  feet  long.  The  body  is  covered  with  long,  coarse 
hair.  The  color  is  gray.  A  broad  black  band,  bordered 
with  white,  begins  on  the  chest  and  passes  obliquely  over 
the  shoulder,  ending  in  a  point  as  it  approaches  the  loins. 
This  marking  gives  the  animal  a  peculiar,  "cut-up"  ap- 
pearance. The  nose  is  greatly  elongated,  and  the  mouth 
is  a  mere  slit  through  which  the  pensile  tongue  is  thrust  in 
licking  up  ants.  As  it  gallops  clumsily  along,  for  the  enor- 
mous back-turned  claws  of  the  front  feet  impede  its  prog- 
ress, the  flattened  tail  is  thrown  up  and  seems  to  aid  in 
balancing  the  animal.  When  pursued  by  either  men  or 
dogs,  it  runs  until  closely  pressed,  and  then  rears  up  and 
makes  short  dashes  at  its  assailants.  It  is  easily  capable  of 
inflicting  fatal  wounds  with  its  claws.  P.  Lydekker  (Royal 
Natural  History)  states  that  its  habits  are  nocturnal  and 
that  it  has  "usually  a  regular  lair  .  .  .  generally  situated 
among  tall  grass,  where  it  spends  the  day  in  slumber.  .  .  ." 
In  the  same  paragraph  he  speaks  of  the  animal  tearing  open 
the  hillocks  of  termites  with  the  powerful  claws  of  the  fore- 
feet; and  "as  soon  as  the  light  of  day  is  let  into  their  domi- 
cile the  ants  or  termites  rush  to  the  surface.  .  .  ."  With- 
out commenting  on  this  inconsistency,  I  believe  that  the 


HUNTING  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY       217 

giant  ant-eater  is  at  least  partially  diurnal.  The  stomachs 
of  the  specimens  shot  by  Colonel  Roosevelt  and  his  son 
Kermit  contained  ants  and  termites,  a  quantity  of  earth, 
and  bits  of  dry  and  green  leaves.  The  colonel  expressed 
the  opinion  that  the  earth  and  leaves  had  been  picked  up 
with  the  ants.  The  walls  of  the  stomach  are  thick  and 
muscular,  like  the  gizzard  of  a  fowl.  In  captivity  they 
thrive  on  finely  chopped  meat. 

We  spent  the  night  aboard  the  Nyoac,  which  had  been 
made  fast  at  a  landing  where  there  was  only  a  dilapidated 
thatched-roof  shed.  Early  the  next  morning  horses  were 
brought  up  and  saddled  and  we  started  on  a  five  hours' 
ride  to  the  ranch-house  that  was  to  serve  as  camp. 

Before  us  stretched  vast  marshes,  dotted  here  and  there 
with  little  islands  of  pastureland  and  groves  of  trees  or 
thorny  bushes.  It  was  typical  pantanal  country.  Parrots, 
parrakee'ts,  and  macaws  flashed  by  with  raucous  shrieks, 
and  kis-ka-dee  flycatchers  calmly  surveyed  the  cavalcade 
from  the  uppermost  branches.  Sometimes  we  flushed  a 
small  flock  of  beautiful  Brazilian  teals,  and  in  the  distance 
we  saw  ibises  and  jabiru  storks  standing  in  the  long  grass, 
like  foam-flecks  on  a  sea  of  green.  For  the  greater  part  of 
the  distance  we  rode  through  water  knee-deep  to  the  horses, 
but  in  spots  the  marshes  were  drying.  In  the  little  pools 
that  were  all  that  remained  of  what  had  formerly,  perhaps, 
been  an  immense  lagoon,  myriads  of  imprisoned  fish  wrig- 
gled and  churned  the  water  into  thin  mud.  They  formed 
an  almost  solid  mass,  and  at  the  borders  numbers  were 
constantly  leaping  out;  the  ground  was  strewn  with  the 
dead  and  dying  by  thousands,  and  of  many  species.  The 
stench  from  the  decomposing  fish  was  almost  overpowering. 
Numerous  animals  coming  out  of  their  hiding-places  at 
night  to  gorge  on  the  bountiful  repast  left  their  foot-prints 
in  the  soft  mud.  Apparently  opossums,  coatis,  tiger-cats, 
and  even  jaguars  haunted  these  places.  In  the  daytime 
the  countless  numbers  of  water-birds  exacted  their  share  of 
the  spoil, 


218  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  fazenda,  or  ranch-house,  called  Palmiras',  was  reached 
at  noon.  It  was  an  interesting  place;  the  long,  low,  ram- 
bling buildings  formed  a  square  with  an  open  court  in  the 
centre,  in  which  trees  and  flowers  grew  and  pigs  and  chickens 
roamed  at  will.  All  about  lay  marshes,  papyrus  swamp, 
fields,  and  forests.  Herds  of  half-wild  cattle  grazed  on  the 
vast  range,  and  marsh-deer  stalked  among  them  or  along 
the  borders  of  the  thick  papyrus  growths.  The  main  ob- 
ject of  this  excursion  was  to  obtain  the  lordly  jaguar.  Men 
were  sent  out  to  locate  fresh  spoor  of  the  animals,  and  after 
a  several  days'  hunt  were  successful.  Then  a  motley  cav- 
alcade, headed  by  the  colonel,  set  out  to  find  the  big, 
spotted  cat.  Some  of  the  party  rode  horses  or  mules,  and 
a  number  of  natives  were  mounted  on  steers.  A  pack  of 
dogs,  used  to  tree  the  quarry,  trotted  excitedly  beside  the 
riders.  After  many  hours  the  faint  call  of  a  bugle  far  away 
announced  the  return  of  the  hunting-party.  Other  bugles 
took  up  the  signal,  and  by  the  time  camp  was  reached  all  of 
the  natives  were  lined  up  and  eager  to  inspect  the  trophies. 
Within  a  week  two  jaguars,  a  second  ant-eater,  and  a  few 
deer  had  been  secured.  There  was  not  sufficient  time  to 
undertake  a  systematic  study  of  the  bird  life,  but  the  spe- 
cies found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  house  were  of 
ample  interest  to  occupy  the  attention  of  a  naturalist  for 
many  months.  Foremost  among  them  was  the  hyacinthine 
macaw,  largest  of  the  entire  parrot  family.  The  dazzling 
blue  creature  is  more  than  a  yard  long,  and  the  beak  is  so 
powerful  that  it  can  gnaw  through  the  tough  hull  of  the 
castanha,  or  Brazil  nut,  a  feat  unequalled,  perhaps,  by 
any  other  bird.  It  is  a  powerful  flyer  and  usually  there 
were  only  two  or  four  together;  but  some  of  the  flocks  we 
saw  numbered  ten  or  twelve  birds.  But  as  a  whole,  the 
bird  is  rare,  and  as  it  inhabits  the  wildest  pantanales  and 
jungles,  its  graceful  flight  and  loud  screams  are  one  of  the 
rare  rewards  of  those  only  who  venture  far  beyond  the 
beaten  route  of  travel.  The  closet  naturalist  may  inspect 
the  stuffed  skin,  but  it  can  no  more  convey  to  him  an  im- 


HUNTING  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY       219 

pression  of  the  gorgeous,  living  bird,  than  the  dry,  shrunken 
bush  at  midwinter  suggests  the  flowering  rose. 

Small  colonies  of  blackbirds  dwelt  in  the  papyrus  swamp. 
Their  heads  were  of  a  fiery  red  color,  and  as  they  sat  on 
the  swaying  reeds  they,  from  a  distance,  resembled  brilliant 
blossoms.  However,  these  birds  were  not  abundant. 

The  preparation  of  the  skins  of  large  mammals  was  a 
difficult  undertaking.  No  provision  had  been  made  for 
this  branch  of  the  work,  as  the  object  of  the  expedition 
was  not  zoological  but  geographical.  However,  none  of  the 
large  game  was  thrown  away ;  it  was  skinned  and  preserved 
in  the  best  manner  possible  under  the  circumstances. 

Returning  to  Corumba  on  the  evening  of  December  21, 
we  were  joined  by  the  other  members  of  the  expedition  and 
immediately  proceeded  on  the  up-river  voyage  toward  Sao 
Luis  de  Caceres.  A  short  side-trip  was  made  up  the  Rio 
Sao  Lourengo,  with  brief  stops  at  various  points  where  there 
were  evidences  of  game,  but  very  little  was  added  to  the 
collections. 

On  January  1,  early  in  the  morning,  we  halted  at  a  place 
where  there  were  fresh  jaguar  tracks  on  the  river-bank. 
Colonels  Roosevelt  and  Rondon,  and  Kermit,  accompanied 
by  a  number  of  camaradas  and  the  dogs,  immediately  took 
up  the  trail  and  disappeared  among  the  trees.  We  spent  a 
part  of  the  day  on  board  the  steamer,  and  the  remainder 
collecting  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  One  of  the  men  ran 
into  a  nest  of  maribundi  wasps;  one  of  the  enraged  insects 
stung  him  on  the  head  and  for  several  hours  the  poor  fel- 
low was  in  great  agony.  His  head  was  swollen  to  an  enor- 
mous size,  and  his  companions  bathed  it  constantly  with 
water  to  relieve  the  pain;  they  feared  he  would  die.  I  have 
very  good  reasons  for  remembering  these  wasps.  While  on 
the  Chapare  River,  in  Bolivia,  one  of  them  crawled  under 
the  mosquito-net  covering  my  cot;  when  I  retired  at  night 
I  put  my  arm  on  the  insect  and  was  stung  four  times  before 
it  could  be  captured.  The  effect  of  the  poison  was  as  rapid 
as  it  was  remarkable.  It  produced  a  kind  of  paralysis 


220  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

within  about  five  minutes,  which  the  prompt  action  alone 
of  my  companion  prevented  from  ending  fatally;  but  more 
extraordinary  still,  the  same  symptoms  returned  regularly 
at  six  months'  intervals  during  the  following  two  years. 
Each  attack  lasted  from  a  week  to  ten  days. 

The  day  gradually  drew  to  a  close,  and  finally  darkness 
settled  over  the  landscape,  but  there  was  no  sign  of  the 
hunting-party.  The  captain,  therefore,  began  to  cruise  up 
and  down  the  river,  giving  frequent  blasts  of  the  ship's 
whistle,  for  it  was  feared  that  the  hunters  might  have 
become  lost.  After  an  hour  or  so  we  suddenly  rounded  a 
sharp  bend  and  heard  a  loud  voice  singing  cheerfully  some- 
where on  the  bank.  A  boat  was  sent  in  the  direction 
whence  the  sound  came,  and  after  a  short  time  it  returned 
with  Colonels  Roosevelt  and  Rondon.  They  had  been 
pursuing  the  jaguar  through  forest  and  swamp  for  twelve 
hours  on  foot,  and  without  food  or  drink.  Their  clothing 
was  torn  and  covered  with  mud;  it  had  been  necessary  to 
swim  frequently,  in  their  clothes,  holding  their  rifles  above 
their  heads;  the  lagoons  were  infested  with  piranhas  and 
crocodiles.  In  running  through  the  vegetation  fire-ants 
and  wasps  had  been  swept  from  the  leaves  and  branches, 
and  the  insects  had  been  quick  to  retaliate  with  bites  and 
stings.  But  Colonel  Roosevelt  had  enjoyed  the  experience 
thoroughly  and  at  once  sat  down  to  a  hearty  dinner,  during 
the  course  of  which  we  heard  the  story  of  the  hunt.  Ker- 
mit  returned  some  hours  later.  Most  of  the  camaradas 
were  so  tired  they  spent  the  night  in  the  forest  and  did  not 
come  in  until  late  the  next  morning. 

We  always  passed  the  nights  ashore;  the  temperature  in 
our  cabin  aboard  the  Nyoac  was  118°  F.,  so  we  much  pre- 
ferred to  sling  our  hammocks  among  the  trees,  where  it  was 
cooler.  One  morning  upon  awakening  I  was  surprised  to 
see  the  gently  waving  palm-leaves  overhead.  It  seemed 
queer  that  I  should  have  forgotten  to  adjust  the  mosquito 
net  the  night  before;  but  an  investigation  showed  that  the 
greater  part  of  the  netting  had  been  carried  away  during 


HUNTING  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PARAGUAY       221 

tne  night  by  the  carregadw  ants.  In  my  several  experi- 
ences with  these  insects  I  have  never  known  them  to  carry 
away  woollen  clothing,  but  all  articles  of  cotton  to  which 
they  had  access  were  destroyed. 

The  jabiru  storks  were  nesting  on  the  Sao  Lourengo;  we 
saw  several  of  their  great  platform  nests  of  sticks  perched 
in  the  crotches  of  giant  trees.  The  young  storks,  two  in 
number  and  fully  feathered,  were  continually  exercising 
their  limbs  by  running  back  and  forth  in  the  nest,  flapping 
their  wings  all  the  while,  preparatory  to  launching  forth 
into  the  big  world.  If  we  tossed  short  sticks  up  to  them 
they  caught  them  in  their  bills,  held  on  for  a  few  moments, 
then  dropped  them.  Caimans  were  particularly  plentiful 
on  the  upper  Paraguay.  Scores  of  the  evil-looking  reptiles 
lay  on  the  sand-banks,  with  wide-open  mouths  and  staring, 
glassy  eyes.  A  fringe  of  trees  flanked  the  water;  through 
them  we  could  see  the  boundless  wastes  of  pantanales  be- 
yond. Troops  of  black  howler  monkeys  ambled  leisurely 
away  as  the  boat  drew  near;  the  males  only  were  black,  the 
females  being  of  a  straw-color.  There  were  immense  flocks 
of  a  species  of  gray-throated,  green  parrakeets;  some  of 
them  were  building  enormous  nests  of  sticks  in  the  branches. 
When  a  single  tree  contained  three  or  four  of  the  huge 
structures,  its  strength  was  strained  to  the  breaking-point, 
for  some  of  the  nests  were  five  or  six  feet  across  and  con- 
tained hundreds  of  pounds  of  material;  but  not  all  of  them 
were  of  this  size;  some  were  composed  of  no  more  than  an 
armful  of  sticks  and  were  occupied  by  a  single  pair  of  birds. 
The  larger  ones  harbor  dozens  of  birds.  The  nesting  cavi- 
ties had  been  in  the  under-side  of  the  structures;  entrance 
to  them  was  gained  through  tubular  openings  underneath. 

The  number  of  water-birds  in  the  pantanales  border- 
ing the  upper  Paraguy  is  almost  unbelievably  large. 
There  were  such  countless  thousands  of  cormorants  and 
anhingas  that  they  confused  the  eye.  Colonel  Roosevelt 
never  permitted  useless  slaughter,  and  when  one  day,  one 
of  the  camaradas  forgot  himself  and  shot  a  bird,  he  was 


222  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

compelled  to  go  for  it  in  a  rowboat;  then  the  bird  was 
skinned  and  preserved.  After  that  no  one  ventured  to 
shoot  at  the  winged  hosts.  Egrets  were  present  in  such 
vast  numbers  that  the  trees  were  white  with  them;  and 
when  they  flew  the  twinkling  wings  filled  the  air  like  snow- 
flakes.  They  were  not  molested  in  this  locality  for  the 
reason  that  their  habitat  is  impenetrable.  I  later  learned 
in  another  region  that  thousands  of  these  birds  are  killed 
for  their  plumes,  in  a  most  atrocious  manner.  About  the 
time  the  egret's  feathers  are  at  their  best,  which  is  also  the 
time  when  the  nests  are  filled  with  young  birds,  the  annual 
floods  have  begun  to  recede,  leaving  small  lakes  and  marshes 
teeming  with  imprisoned  fish,  such  as  we  had  seen  en  route 
to  Rancho  Palmiras.  This  is  the  season  of  harvest  for  the 
water-birds,  and  they  repair  daily  to  some  favorite  resort 
to  gorge  on  the  luckless  fish.  The  plume-hunters,  taking 
advantage  of  this  combination  of  circumstances,  collect 
quantities  of  fish,  poison  them,  and  then  scatter  them  over 
the  birds'  feeding-grounds.  Occasionally  poisoned  shrimp 
are  used  if  the  inundations  extend  beyond  the  usual  time. 
This  method  is,  of  course,  cheaper  than  shooting;  the  birds 
are  not  frightened  away  as  they  are  by  the  loud  reports 
of  guns,  and  the  success  of  such  relentless  persecution  must 
be  obvious.  A  whole  colony  could  be  exterminated  in  its 
feeding-grounds  even  if  the  rookery  is  impregnable. 

Sao  Luis  de  Caceres  was  reached  January  5,  and  at  noon 
the  next  day  the  Nyoac  weighed  anchor  again  and  started 
up-stream.  A  short  stop  was  made  at  a  small  landing  called 
Porto  Campo,  where  a  few  days'  hunt  produced  tapirs, 
deer,  and  white-lipped  peccaries.  January  13  found  the 
expedition  aboard  a  launch,  struggling  against  the  swift 
current  of  the  Sepotuba.  A  heavy  house-boat  full  of  pro- 
visions and  luggage  was  towed  alongside,  and  we  made  not 
over  a  mile  an  hour.  The  end  of  the  river  journey  came 
on  January  16.  We  had  reached  Tapirapoan,  the  farthest 
outpost  on  the  frontier,  and  immediately  preparations  were 
begun  for  our  long  dash  across  the  chapadao  of  Matto  Grosso. 


CHAPTER  XV 

A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  THROUGH  WILDEST  MATTO 

GROSSO 

TAPIRAPOAN  presented  a  scene  of  festive  gayety  upon 
the  arrival  of  the  expedition.  The  large,  open  square  around 
which  clustered  the  low,  mud-walled  huts  was  decorated 
with  lines  of  pennants,  while  the  American  and  Brazilian 
flags  fluttered  from  tall  poles  in  the  centre.  Flag  raising 
and  lowering  were  always  impressive  ceremonies;  every- 
body lined  up  and  stood  at  attention  while  the  banners 
were  elevated  or  taken  down,  as  the  case  might  be,  to  the 
strains  of  martial  music.  However,  if  Tapirapoan  bore  a 
festive  outward  appearance,  it  acted  merely  as  a  mask  to 
cover  up  the  general  confusion  that  even  a  casual  inspection 
could  not  fail  to  disclose.  Numbers  of  horses,  mules,  and 
oxen  had  been  gathered  from  the  surrounding  country;  an 
array  of  natives  or  camaradas  who  were  to  have  charge  of 
the  animals  and  the  impedimenta,  had  assembled,  and 
several  warerooms  were  filled  with  provisions  and  equip- 
ment. To  organize  properly  a  cavalcade  of  such  vast  pro- 
portions required  some  little  time — in  fact  just  six  days. 
We  did  not  particularly  regret  the  delay,  for  it  gave  us  an 
opportunity  of  making  daily  excursions  into  the  near-by 
country.  This  was  mostly  of  an  open  character  and  yielded 
no  big  game,  but  it  teemed  with  interesting  little  creatures. 
Several  small  tracts  of  land  were  fenced  in  and  planted  in 
maize,  and  it  was  wonderful  to  note  how  these  restricted 
areas  had  been  discovered  by  small  rodents  which  apparently 
came  from  the  surrounding  wilds,  found  an  abundance  of 
food  and  favorable  conditions,  and  multiplied  so  rapidly  that 
within  a  short  time  they  were  so  abundant  as  to  be  decidedly 
harmful.  One  would  almost  expect  their  natural  enemies 

223 


224  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

to  increase  in  the  same  proportion,  but  such  was  obviously 
not  the  case.  Wherever  there  was  a  patch  of  ground  under 
cultivation,  rats  and  mice  teemed,  particularly  the  latter, 
belonging  to  the  genus  Oryzomys;  they  are  several  times 
the  size  of  a  house  mouse,  have  rather  short  tails,  and  are 
of  a  very  deep  brown  color.  The  small  burrows  in  which 
they  live  are  made  at  the  bases  of  weed-stalks,  bushes,  and 
under  fences  and  logs;  or,  lacking  these  protective  agents, 
they  dig  down  into  the  ground  almost  anywhere.  If  one 
sits  still  for  a  few  minutes,  preferably  at  dusk,  they  may  see 
the  beady-eyed  little  animals  steal  forth,  whiskers  twitching 
nervously,  and  ears  alert  to  catch  any  sound  which  might 
apprise  them  of  danger.  I  have  never  seen  them  go  very 
far  from  the  protection  of  their  underground  runways;  and 
even  while  nibbling  hurriedly  at  some  tempting  bit  of  food, 
they  frequently  dash  away  suddenly,  then  stop  short,  look 
around,  and  come  back — all  apparently  without  the  slightest 
provocation. 

Some  of  the  men  had  caught  a  huge  tortoise  known  in 
various  parts  of  South  America  as  the  morrocoy,  farther  down 
the  river.  This  became  a  sort  of  general  pet,  and  while  it 
was  at  first  intended  to  use  "  Lizzie' ' — for  that  was  the  name 
that  had  been  given  to  the  friendly,  inactive  creature — for 
food,  it  was  later  decided  that  the  animal  was  worthy  of 
better  treatment.  It  was  therefore  agreed  upon  that  Lizzie 
should  go  to  the  Bronx  Zoo.  A  comfortable  crate  was  con- 
structed, and  just  before  loading  it  on  the  launch  bound 
down-stream,  we  gathered  around  the  box  and  dropped 
an  abundant  supply  of  sliced  melon  and  other  succulent 
food  through  the  bars.  Then  we  learned  an  interesting 
bit  of  natural  history.  One  of  the  camaradas  had  stood 
by  until  he  thought  enough  perfectly  good  food  had  been 
wasted  on  the  tortoise.  "Don't  give  her  all  that,"  he  ad- 
vised, "a  turtle  is  just  like  the  camel  and  the  elephant;  it 
can  go  six  months  without  eating."  We  were  glad  to  learn 
later  that  Lizzie  survived  the  trip  to  New  York,  and  proved 
to  be  the  largest  of  her  species  in  the  Zoo  collection. 


A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  225 

Order  was  finally  restored  out  of  chaos,  and  each  member 
of  the  party  was  given  a  mule  and  a  complete  saddle  outfit. 
The  pack-animals  were  divided  into  squads,  each  in  charge 
of  a  chief  mule-man  and  his  assistants;  then  the  impedi- 
menta were  sorted  out  and  arranged  for  easy  and  quick 
packing  on  the  mules. 

At  noon,  January  21,  the  first  detachment  of  the  expedi- 
tion started.  This  included  all  of  the  Americans  and  several 
of  the  Brazilians  to  whose  number  Lieutenants  Joao  Lyra 
and  Joaquin  de  Melho  Filho  had  been  added.  Captain 
Amilcar  was  to  follow  the  next  day  with  the  remainder  of 
the  caravan.  This  division  of  the  party  was  absolutely 
necessary  as,  on  account  of  the  great  number  of  men  and 
animals  required,  the  expedition  would  have  been  unwieldy 
if  it  had  attempted  to  move  in  one  body. 

The  first  day's  ride  was  a  short  one.  Early  in  the  morn- 
ing the  men  started  to  load  the  pack-animals,  many  of  which 
were  apparently  fresh  from  the  ranges  and  had  never  been 
broken  to  work  of  any  kind;  as  a  result  of  this  there  was  a 
good  deal  of  confusion  at  first.  The  corrals  reminded  one 
of  a  wild-west  show.  Guachos,  wearing  fringed  leather 
aprons,  and  wicked,  keen-edged  knives  in  their  belts,  and 
who  swore  fluently  in  two  or  three  different  languages, 
lassoed  the  panicky  animals,  blindfolded  them,  and  ad- 
justed the  packs.  When  the  covering  was  removed  from 
the  animals'  eyes  they  frequently  gave  a  few  sharp  snorts, 
and  then  started  through  the  corral  in  a  series  of  rabbit- 
like  leaps,  eventually  sending  the  packs,  saddles,  and  all 
flying  in  every  direction.  After  freeing  themselves  of  their 
burden,  they  gave  a  few  extra  high  kicks  of  exultation,  and 
then  ran  into  the  huddled  mass  of  their  fellows  for  con- 
cealment. Gradually,  however,  the  men  became  more 
adept  at  their  work,  the  mules  and  oxen  quieted  down  and 
little  groups  left  the  corrals,  wound  up  the  trail,  and  dis- 
appeared in  a  cloud  of  dust. 

Our  mounts  were  good,  strong  animals.  We  cantered  up 
the  trail  at  a  brisk  gait  while  Mr.  Fiala,  who  had  gone  on  a 


226  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

few  miles  in  advance,  took  a  motion-picture  of  the  entire 
outfit,  beginning  the  long  journey  through  wildest  Brazil 
that  would  end — we  knew  not  where.  Unfortunately  Mr. 
Fiala  was  not  present  to  take  a  film  of  the  expedition  when 
it  emerged  at  Manaos;  the  two  pictures  side  by  side  would 
have  told  an  interesting  story. 

A  few  hours'  ride  through  forest  and  brush-covered  coun- 
try brought  us  to  the  Rio  Sepotuba  again,  but  quite  some 
distance  above  Tapirapoan,  and  we  crossed  the  stream  on 
a  pontoon  made  by  laying  a  platform  of  boards  across  three 
dugout  canoes.  There  were  a  number  of  new  palm-leaf 
houses  on  the  river-bank,  so  these  were  used  for  the  night's 
camp  instead  of  erecting  the  tents. 

Next  day  we  were  in  the  saddle  by  nine,  riding  through 
tall  virgin  forest  with  occasional  stretches  of  sandy  soil  in 
which  an  expanse  of  low  bushes  only  grew.  It  was  evident 
as  we  penetrated  farther  into  the  interior  that  the  forest 
zone  was  fast  disappearing,  to  be  replaced  by  the  vast  cha- 
padao;  this  latter  type  of  country  is  high,  nearly  level,  and 
covered  with  widely  scattered,  stunted  trees.  The  heat 
was  intense;  there  was  no  rain,  but  troublesome  insects 
were  lacking.  At  three  o'clock  we  entered  an  old  clearing. 
Formerly  rice,  plantains,  mandioca,  and  corn  had  been  culti- 
vated here,  but  now  the  place  was  deserted  and  overgrown 
with  weeds.  Kilometre  52,  as  the  place  was  called,  had 
been  an  important  camp  of  the  telegraph  commission  while 
work  was  being  prosecuted  in  that  region,  but  had  long 
since  been  abandoned. 

On  January  23  a  32-kilometre  ride  took  us  to  the  site  of 
an  old  Indian  village  known  as  Aldeia  Queimada,  meaning 
burnt  settlement.  A  single  hut  was  all  that  remained,  and 
in  this  lived  two  Indian  women,  each  of  whom  had  two 
husbands  and  a  number  of  small  children.  We  were  ad- 
hering closely  to  the  telegraph-line,  following  the  wide 
swath  that  had  been  cleared  to  protect  the  wires  from 
falling  trees  and  branches,  except  when  a  short  detour  was 
desirable  to  find  a  better  crossing  for  some  small  stream. 


Colonel  Roosevelt  in  the  Brazilian  chapadao. 


A  camp  in  the  chapadao. 


A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  227 

The  country  was  of  a  gently  undulatory  character,  covered 
with  wiry  grass  and  a  very  sparse  growth  of  scrubby, 
gnarled  trees.  This  vegetation  is  typical  of  a  great  part  of 
Matto  Grosso.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  small  deer  and 
a  limited  number  of  wood-hewers  and  jays,  there  were  no 
evidences  of  animal  life.  A  clear,  cold  spring  rippled  over 
a  pebbly  bottom  near  our  night's  camp.  It  was  the  last 
stream  we  should  see  that  discharged  its  water  (via  the 
Sepotuba)  into  the  Rio  de  la  Plata  system. 

Colonel  Rondon  had  employed  a  number  of  motor-trucks 
in  constructing  this  section  of  the  telegraph-line;  several  of 
them  were  still  in  serviceable  condition.  It  was  therefore 
thought  advisable  to  send  a  portion  of  the  baggage  ahead 
on  the  cars  as  far  as  the  trail  permitted,  and  as  it  would 
take  several  days  for  the  rest  of  the  expedition  to  catch  up, 
Mr.  Cherrie  and  I  went  along  to  devote  to  collecting  the 
time  thus  gained.  Father  Zahm  and  Mr.  Sigg  also  went  in 
this  party.  We  started  from  a  point  called  Rio  Mandioca, 
two  days  beyond  Aldeia  Queimada.  There  were  three 
trucks,  great,  well-built  machines  of  foreign  make,  laden 
to  their  fullest  capacity  with  the  heaviest  and  most  cum- 
bersome pieces  of  equipment.  It  was  a  strange  sight  to 
see  them  racing  across  the  uninhabited  chapadao  at  a  speed 
of  thirty  miles  an  hour.  It  rained  frequently,  but  the  pow- 
erful cars  charged  through  the  blinding  sheets  of  falling 
water,  and  sent  streams  of  mud  flying  from  the  inundated 
trail.  Each  car  was  provided  with  two  wide  belts  of  heavy 
slats;  one  of  them  was  fitted  over  the  wheels  on  each  side 
of  the  car,  so  they  formed  a  sort  of  endless  trail  and  gave 
greater  traction  in  the  uneven  roadway.  Surely  this  was 
exploring  de  luxe;  but  we  were  to  reach  the  other  extreme 
before  long. 

The  car  in  which  we  travelled  had  a  full-blooded  Indian 
mechanician,  who  seemed  to  be  fully  initiated  into  the 
mysteries  of  handling  an  automobile,  from  gathering  up 
branches  and  stones  with  which  to  fill  up  the  roadway 
when  the  cars  mired  deep  in  the  loose  sand,  to  repairing 


228  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

the  engine  on  the  rare  occasions  when  such  a  procedure 
was  necessary. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  we  reached  a  point 
called  Macacos.  A  few  decaying  huts  marked  the  spot, 
and  in  them  lived  a  number  of  Parcels  Indians,  the  first 
we  had  seen.  They  were  a  wild-looking  lot;  some  of  them 
wore  breech-cloths,  others  loose,  long,  shirt-like  garments, 
and  all  had  a  thick  mop  of  tousled  black  hair.  A  few  of 
the  children  were  nearly  covered  with  ropes  of  black  beads 
cut  from  sections  of  thin  rattan  or  bamboo.  They  rubbed 
their  stomachs  with  their  hands  and  said  "fome,"  meaning 
hungry;  so  we  gave  them  half  of  a  deer  that  had  been  killed 
a  short  time  before,  and  they  rushed  into  the  huts  to  feast. 
We  continued  on  a  distance  of  four  leagues.  This  brought 
us  to  the  Rio  Sacre — the  end  of  the  wide  road.  The  river 
is  here  broken  by  a  fall  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  As 
elsewhere  in  South  America,  we  were  impressed  with  the 
appalling  lack  of  animal  life.  So  far  we  had  seen  only  a 
few  rheas,  a  seriema  or  two,  and  several  small  deer. 

On  the  morning  of  the  29th  we  crossed  the  Sacre  on  a 
pontoon  boat  and,  using  a  number  of  mules  that  had  been 
previously  sent  there,  rode  the  two  leagues  to  the  Parcels 
Indian  village  of  Utiarity.  From  afar  we  could  hear  the 
deafening  roar  of  water,  and  the  Indians  eagerly  guided  us 
to  a  spot  just  below  the  settlement,  where  the  Papagayo 
rushes  over  the  edge  of  a  precipice  and  falls  into  the  gorge 
below  in  one  sheer  drop  of  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet. 
The  river  is  fully  five  hundred  feet  wide,  and  the  quantity 
of  clear,  cold  water  it  flows  is  enormous.  The  spectacle  of 
the  descending  wall  of  snowy  water  streaked  with  various 
shades  of  green  and  blue,  the  idly  floating  mist-clouds,  and 
the  thunderous  roar  is  awe-inspiring.  When  it  is  remem- 
bered that  these  falls  are  higher  than  Niagara,  one  can 
easily  picture  the  wonderful  sight  that  meets  the  eye  of 
the  traveller  in  this  virgin  country. 

The  Parcels  are  a  small  tribe  of  semicivilized  Indians 
who  live  in  substantial  huts  and  cultivate  fields  of  mandioca, 


A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  229 

corn,  and  sweet  potatoes.  Formerly  they  were  far  more 
numerous,  but  an  incessant  warfare  with  the  neighboring 
tribes  and  contact  with  the  outside  world  have  thinned 
their  ranks  until  they  are  well  on  the  road  to  extinc- 
tion. Some  of  them  wore  clothes,  while  many  wore  only  a 
breech-cloth  of  their  own  weaving.  They  also  make 
hammocks  and  various  articles  for  useful  or  ornamental 
purposes. 

In  stature  the  Parecis  is  rather  short,  but  he  is  well  built 
and  sturdy.  His  color  is  a  light  shade  of  brown.  The 
youths  of  the  tribe  engaged  in  a  curious  game  of  head-ball, 
using  for  the  purpose  a  hollow  rubber  sphere  a  foot  in  diam- 
eter, manufactured  by  themselves.  They  chose  sides  and 
batted  the  ball  back  and  forth  across  a  line  with  their 
heads.  At  no  time  were  the  hands  or  feet  used  to  strike 
or  kick  the  ball.  They  displayed  remarkable  dexterity  and 
tireless  energy  at  this  form  of  amusement;  if  the  ball  came 
bounding  along  the  ground  they  made  headlong  dives  for 
it  like  a  baseball-player  sliding  to  home  plate. 

One  evening  just  before  sundown  practically  all  of  the 
men  joined  in  a  sacred  dance.  On  this  occasion  they  were 
clothed  in  gaudy  red  head-bands,  bead  neck-chains  and 
belts,  also  anklets  made  of  bunches  of  curious  dry  seeds 
that  kept  up  a  continuous  rattling  sound  as  the  dancers 
stamped  in  rhythm  with  the  low,  sighing  music  of  reed 
flutes.  They  stopped  at  short  intervals  to  drink  chicha,  and 
during  certain  parts  of  the  dance  they  sang  the  names  of 
their  dead  warriors  and  mighty  hunters,  calling  upon  them 
for  guidance  and  assistance.  We  had  previously  seen  a 
blue-and-yellow  macaw  about  the  village;  it  had  the  run  of 
the  place  and  seemed  to  be  a  great  favorite  with  everybody. 
While  the  dance  was  in  progress  the  bird  sat  disconsolately 
on  top  of  one  of  the  huts.  Then  we  discovered  that  the 
Indians  had  pulled  out  its  tail-feathers  and  used  them  to 
decorate  their  head-dresses. 

The  women  were  not  permitted  to  witness  the  first  part 
of  the  performance,  but  later  the  dancers  visited  each  home 


230  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

and  exacted  tribute  from  the  squaws  in  the  form  of  several 
gallons  of  chicha. 

Utiarity  was  a  profitable  collecting-place.  Many  small 
rodents  and  a  few  larger  mammals,  including  a  soft-shelled 
armadillo  collected  by  Colonel  Roosevelt,  were  taken,  and 
a  number  of  birds  besides.  We  spent  five  days  in  the  vil- 
lage (Colonel  Roosevelt  arrived  three  days  after  we  did), 
at  the  end  of  which  time  Father  Zahm  and  Mr.  Sigg  started 
back  home.  A  short  time  later  Mr.  Fiala  left  the  expedi- 
tion for  his  trip  down  the  unexplored  Papagayo.  Mr.  Fiala 
undertook  this  work  voluntarily,  well  realizing  the  hazard- 
ous nature  of  the  venture  ahead  of  him.  He  carried  the 
undertaking  to  a  successful  close,  but  barely  escaped  with 
his  life. 

The  first  telegraph-station  along  the  line  was  located  at 
Utiarity.  It  was  conducted  by  a  young  Brazilian;  his  wife 
acted  as  schoolmistress  and  was  doing  a  really  noble  work 
in  educating  the  younger  gereration  of  Parecis  along  men- 
tal and  moral  lines.  The  second  telegraph-station  was  on 
the  banks  of  the  Rio  Juruena,  approximately  one  hundred 
kilometres  away;  it  required  five  days  to  reach  this  place. 

By  this  time  the  order  of  the  expedition  had  settled  down 
to  a  regular  routine.  We  arose  as  the  first  sharp  blasts  of 
a  bugle  smote  the  silence  of  early  morning.  A  short  time 
later  the  faithful  Juan,  a  colored  man  who  was  as  big-hearted 
and  obliging  as  he  was  tall  and  powerful,  appeared  with 
coffee.  At  about  eight  o'clock  a  bountiful  breakfast  was 
served.  Then  we  mounted  the  riding  animals  which  were 
brought  and  saddled  by  the  camaradas,  and  started  on  the 
day's  ride.  Each  person  was  advised  in  advance  of  the  dis- 
tance to  be  covered,  and  it  was  easy  to  locate  the  camping- 
site  by  watching  the  numbers  on  the  telegraph-poles;  there 
were  eleven  of  these  to  the  kilometre,  and  as  they  were  num- 
bered consecutively  it  was  of  course  simple  to  arrive  at  the 
numeral  that  marked  the  end  of  the  day's  ride.  Usually 
we  made  camp  at  about  4  p.  M.,  but  sometimes  it  was  much 
later.  The  cook  and  his  assistants  immediately  began  to 


A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  231 

prepare  supper,  and  always  had  it  ready  in  a  short  time, 
much  to  our  relief,  as  there  was  nothing  to  eat  between  meals. 
The  other  men  cleared  spaces,  erected  the  tents,  and  cared 
for  the  luggage  and  animals.  Cherrie  and  I  occupied  a 
fifteen  by  twenty-five  foot  balloon-silk  fly  that  I  had  used 
on  the  Orinoco,  and  this  was  one  of  the  few  shelters  that 
withstood  the  entire  trip;  it  was  used  later  on  the  Rio  da 
Duvida  by  Colonel  Roosevelt.  If  there  was  time  we  went 
on  a  short  hunting-trip  and  usually  secured  at  least  a  few 
interesting  and  little-known  mammals  and  birds.  Night 
in  camp  was  invariably  delightful;  when  the  weather  was 
favorable  the  peons  gathered  great  heaps  of  wood  and  made 
a  huge  bonfire.  Then  we  sat  around  it  and  listened  to 
Colonel  Roosevelt  telling  of  his  hunting  adventures  on  the 
Western  plains,  in  the  north  woods,  or  on  the  African 
veldt — all  told  in  such  a  way  that  we  were  enthralled  and 
could  visualize  pronghorn,  cougar,  bear,  and  lion,  as  well 
as  their  actions  in  their  native  wilderness.  Should  the 
weather  be  unfavorable,  Cherrie  and  I  repaired  to  the 
colonel's  tent  for  a  visit;  or  the  colonel  and  Kermit  came 
to  see  us.  We  discussed  history,  literature,  and  science, 
and  sometimes,  if  the  conditions  were  propitious,  we  were 
favored  with  tales  of  ghosts,  the  werewolf,  and  other  super- 
natural beings.  I  always  looked  forward  to  these  occasions; 
they  are  among  the  never-to-be-forgotten  events  incidental 
to  our  journey  through  the  wilds  with  Colonel  Roosevelt. 
It  required  four  days'  time  to  reach  the  Juruena.  We 
had  been  compelled  to  reduce  the  amount  of  baggage  very 
materially  shortly  after  leaving  the  Parecis  village,  as  many 
of  the  cargo-animals  had  given  out  on  the  trail,  and  the 
others  were  weakening  perceptibly.  It  was  of  course  im- 
possible to  carry  along  grain  for  the  animals;  each  night 
they  were  turned  loose  to  shift  for  themselves,  and  while 
there  was  an  abundance  of  grass,  the  long-continued  strain 
began  to  tell.  We  abandoned  most  of  the  tents,  and  all 
superfluous  clothing  was  left  behind.  The  equipment  for 
collecting  and  preserving  specimens  had  to  be  reduced  to 


232  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH   AMERICA 

a  minimum  also,  on  account  of  its  weight;  we  retained  only 
a  few  hundred  cartridges  and  about  a  dozen  traps  with 
which  to  prosecute  the  natural-history  work.  This  reduc- 
tion of  the  impedimenta  was  unavoidable  and  affected  every 
member  of  the  party,  either  directly  or  indirectly.  It  was 
one  of  the  several  instances  where  individual  interests  had 
to  be  sacrificed  for  the  good  of  the  whole  expedition. 

At  Juruena  we  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  primitive 
tribe  of  Indians  who  probably  represent  the  lowest  type 
of  savage  to  be  found  anywhere  on  the  South  American 
continent.  They  are  known  as  the  Nhambiquaras.  As 
we  drew  up  on  the  river-bank  they  gathered  about  and 
stared  in  curiosity  at  the  party,  but  betrayed  no  hostile  feel- 
ings. Colonel  Rondon  had  but  recently  succeeded  in  es- 
tablishing amicable  relations  with  them.  On  his  first  visits 
into  Matto  Grosso,  numbers  of  his  men  had  been  slain 
by  the  Nhambiquaras,  and  they  had  resented  his  every 
step  into  their  stronghold.  In  the  days  that  followed,  Colonel 
Rondon  related  some  of  his  experiences  with  these  Indians. 
As  accompanied  by  a  few  companions,  among  whom  Lieu- 
tenant Lyra  figured  prominently,  he  made  his  way  slowly 
and  painfully  through  the  chapadao,  parties  of  the  savages 
constantly  followed  his  movements.  On  account  of  the 
open  character  of  the  country  they  remained  in  conceal- 
ment during  the  daytime;  but  when  night  spread  a  protect- 
ing cloak  of  darkness  over  the  land,  the  Indians  became 
bolder  and  harassed  the  camp.  It  was  impossible  to  build 
a  fire,  for  that  would  have  enabled  the  lurking  fiends  to 
see  their  victims  and  make  easy  .targets  of  them.  After 
trying  many  schemes  for  making  friends  with  the  savages, 
Colonel  Rondon  took  a  phonograph  into  the  wilds  with 
him,  and  played  it  at  night.  The  Indians  were  unable  to 
understand  the  music,  and  finally  their  curiosity  prompted 
them  to  leave  the  sheltering  blackness  and  come  timidly 
into  the  Brazilians'  camp  in  search  of  the  sound. 

Colonel  Rondon  has  persistently  treated  the  wild  people 
with  kindness.  During  all  their  persecution  of  himself  and 


A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  233 

his  men,  he  permitted  no  one  to  retaliate  in  any  manner 
whatever.  They  have  therefore  learned  to  look  upon  him 
as  a  friend  and  some  even  appeared  to  be  heartily  glad  to 
see  him. 

In  stature  the  Nhambiquara  is  short,  but  well  built  and 
of  a  rather  dark-brown  color.  It  seems  possible  that  some 
of  them  have  a  slight  amount  of  negro  blood  in  their  veins, 
obtained  from  runaway  slaves  many  years  ago;  a  few  of 
this  class  had  a  light  growth  of  hair  on  the  face.  The  others 
were  beardless  and  their  bodies  also  were  entirely  devoid 
of  hair. 

Clothes  are  entirely  unknown  to  these  Indians,  and  prac- 
tically the  only  ornaments  in  their  possession  were  strings 
of  beads  given  to  them  by  Colonel  Rondon.  The  men  had 
the  septum  of  the  nose  and  upper  lip  pierced,  and  wore 
quills  or  slender  pieces  of  bamboo  in  these  perforations. 
They  had  the  unpleasant  habit  of  coming  close  up  to  one 
and  jabbering  at  a  furious  rate  of  speed;  this  caused  the 
labrets  to  move  uncomfortably  near  one's  eyes,  and  it  was 
necessary  at  times  to  retreat  a  short  distance  in  order  to 
get  out  of  range  of  the  menacing  ornaments.  This  tribe 
builds  curious  round  huts  or  maloca  of  grass  or  leaves,  and 
cultivates  small  areas  of  mandioca;  but  forest  fruits,  game, 
and  wild  honey  form  important  articles  of  diet.  Ants, 
snakes,  and  almost  any  creature  they  can  capture  are  eaten. 
One  day  I  saw  several  children  playing  with  a  calabash  of 
honey,  when  they  accidently  upset  it  on  the  ground;  this, 
however,  caused  them  not  the  slightest  concern ;  they 
gathered  around  the  spot,  and  scooped  up  handfuls  of  the 
saturated  sand,  which  they  ate.  When  they  had  finished,  a 
deep  hole  remained  to  mark  the  site  of  their  banquet ! 

The  weapons  of  the  Nhambiquaras  consist  of  bows  six 
feet  tall,  made  of  tough  black  or  red  palm-wood,  and  long 
bamboo  arrows.  The  points  of  the  latter  vary  according 
to  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  to  be  used,  and  some  of 
them  are  poisoned.  A  bamboo  cap  is  placed  over  the  points 
that  have  been  treated  with  curare,  to  prevent  the  owner's 


234  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

causing  injury  to  himself,  and  also  to  keep  the  rain  from 
washing  the  poison  off.  Hunting-parties  take  long  tramps 
at  frequent  intervals,  subsisting  on  the  fruits  of  their  prow- 
ess. At  night  a  rude  lean-to  is  built  of  branches;  a  fire, 
started  by  rubbing  two  sticks  together,  is  placed  in  front, 
and  the  game  is  roasted  and  eaten;  then  they  stretch  them- 
selves on  the  bare  ground  to  sleep,  like  so  many  sheep  or 
dogs. 

Colonel  Rondon  was  always  kind  to  the  Indians.  He 
gave  them  beads,  trinkets,  and  food.  A  herd  of  steers  was 
driven  along  with  the  expedition,  and  one  of  the  animals 
was  killed  whenever  meat  was  required.  The  Indians  al- 
ways received  an  entire  quarter  of  beef.  They  built  a  huge 
fire,  tore  off  pieces  of  the  meat  and  threw  them  into  the 
embers,  where  they  were  left  until  charred;  then  they  were 
raked  out  with  a  stick  and  eaten.  This  was  continued  far 
into  the  night,  until  not  a  morsel  remained.  Sometimes 
the  Indians  danced  for  us,  and  once  we  joined  them.  They 
clasped  hands  and  stamped  about  in  a  circle  singing  in  a 
loud,  shrill  voice,  words  that  sounded  like  "  Na-na-ha-ha- 
ha"  After  a  time  we  regretted  having  entered  into  their 
pastime,  for  they  kept  up  the  dancing  for  an  hour  or  more 
and  refused  to  permit  us  to  drop  out. 

We  remained  a  day  at  Juruena  to  rest  and  develop  films. 
The  pictures  taken  by  an  expedition  always  form  one  of 
its  important  records,  and  great  care  must  be  exercised  in 
developing  all  exposed  films  promptly  or  they  will  spoil  in 
the  hot,  damp  climate. 

When  we  were  ready  to  continue  our  journey  on  the 
second  morning,  we  discovered  that  the  Nhambiquaras  in 
departing  had  taken  two  of  the  dogs  with  them.  Colonel 
Rondon  spent  some  hours  hunting  for  the  Indians,  but 
their  start  was  too  long  and  he  could  not  come  up  with  them. 
I  regretted  heartily  that  they  had  not  taken  all  of  the  dogs, 
as  they  were  a  mongrel,  worthless  lot;  they  were  of  no  as- 
sistance in  hunting,  nor  did  they  watch  camp.  On  the  con- 
trary, they  brought  fleas  and  ticks  into  the  tents,  insisted 


A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  235 

on  eating  and  drinking  out  of  our  dishes,  and  consumed 
quantities  of  food  that  might  have  been  used  to  better  ad- 
vantage later. 

The  country  beyond  the  Juruena  is  somewhat  rolling, 
but  there  is  no  appreciable  change  in  the  vegetation.  We 
rode  twenty  kilometres  the  first  day,  camping  on  the  banks 
of  the  Rio  da  Fomiga  (February  10) .  Next  day  we  travelled 
but  twelve  kilometres,  reaching  the  Jurina,  a  shallow  though 
rapid  stream  six  hundred  feet  wide;  the  crossing  was  slow 
and  laborious,  as  there  was  only  one  very  small  balsa  or  ferry. 
Camp  was  pitched  on  the  banks  of  a  small  stream  a  league 
beyond.  Near  by  were  several  deserted  thatched  huts  and 
the  comparatively  new  graves  where  two  Brazilian  soldiers 
and  one  army  officer  had  been  buried.  The  Indians  had 
killed  them,  and  interred  them  in  an  upright  position  with 
the  head  and  shoulders  protruding  out  of  the  ground.  The 
following  night,  on  the  Rio  Primavera  we  saw  two  other 
graves;  the  men  who  were  buried  there  had  been  slain  while 
asleep  in  their  hammocks.  This  was  the  most  dangerous 
part  of  the  whole  Nhambiquara  country. 

When  we  reached  a  place  called  Mutum  Cavallo  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  15th,  the  mules  Kermit  and  I  had  ridden 
were  so  tired  that  we  decided  to  give  them  a  day's  rest;  that 
meant  walking  to  the  next  camping-site,  and  rather  than 
undertake  the  long  journey  during  the  hot  hours  of  the  next 
day  we  planned  to  start  immediately  after  supper.  There 
was  still  some  time  to  spend,  however,  so  we  went  about 
our  work  as  usual.  An  army  of  ants  was  foraging  near 
the  tents;  they  had  discovered  a  large,  hairy  caterpillar, 
but  the  half-inch  long  "bristles"  with  which  it  was  covered 
protected  its  body  from  the  onslaught  of  the  marauding 
host.  The  ants,  however,  were  not  to  be  deterred  from 
their  purpose;  they  made  repeated  rushes  at  the  caterpillar, 
clipping  off  a  bit  of  hair  each  time  they  struck.  After  con- 
tinuing these  tactics  for  twenty  minutes,  a  small  patch  of 
the  plump  insect's  body  had  been  cleared  of  hair,  and  one 
ant  got  a  good  hold  with  its  vise-like  mandible.  The  cater- 


236  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

pillar,  upon  feeling  the  pain,  promptly  began  to  wriggle, 
thus  exposing  its  unprotected  under-side,  and  the  ants 
immediately  rushed  at  that  vulnerable  part  and  soon  suc- 
ceeded in  overwhelming  their  victim. 

Near  by  lay  the  dry,  bleached  skull  of  a  steer.  A  fer-de- 
lance  three  feet  long  had  apparently  been  struck  with  the 
possibilities  as  a  safe  hiding-place  presented  by  the  interior 
of  the  skull,  and  proceeded  to  crawl  into  it  via  the  nasal 
openings.  Then  it  discovered  that  this  was  not  the  proper 
entrance  and  tried  to  back  out;  but  bits  of  sharp,  splintered 
bone  caught  under  the  plates  and  scales  of  the  reptile's 
body,  holding  it  as  securely  as  a  trap,  until  it  died,  perhaps 
of  starvation. 

At  8.30  P.  M.  we  started  on  our  long  walk.  It  was  very 
dark  at  first,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  see  the  trail.  We 
had  taken  one  of  the  dogs  with  us,  and  this  is  the  only  time, 
so  far  as  I  know,  that  he  was  of  the  slightest  use.  He  was 
of  a  light  color,  so  we  could  make  out  his  dimly  outlined 
form  in  the  darkness.  He  was  therefore  permitted  to  go 
in  advance,  and  we  followed  in  his  footsteps;  not  once  did 
he  lose  the  trail. 

Each  of  us  carried  a  hammock  and  blanket,  also  a  gun, 
as  Colonel  Rondon  had  warned  us  against  bands  of  prowl- 
ing Indians  and  jaguars.  But  to  our  disappointment  we 
saw  absolutely  nothing,  and  did  not  hear  so  much  as  even 
the  hoot  of  an  owl.  The  only  excitement  was  occasioned 
when  streams  blocked  our  way,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
start  across  without  knowing  just  exactly  what  was  ahead. 
At  midnight  we  saw  a  bright  light  in  the  distance,  and  soon 
after  passed  the  sleeping  sentinel  and  entered  Captain 
Amilcar's  quarters;  he  was  camped  on  a  grassy  knoll  called 
Campo  Novo. 

Formerly  the  third  telegraph-station  was  located  at  this 
point,  but  it  now  stands  on  the  Rio  Nhambiquara,  a  league 
away.  We  were  now  on  the  border  of  the  great  Cerro  do 
Norte,  a  vast  tract  of  country  composed  of  high,  broken 
plateaus  or  mesas  covered  luxuriantly  with  grass.  Many 


A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  237 

small  streams  flow  through  deep  gorges,  and  near  some  of 
the  watercourses  tall,  dense  forest  grows.  The  soil  is  fer- 
tile and  would  produce  abundant  crops  of  corn  and  vege- 
tables. Countless  herds  of  cattle  could  be  reared  on  the 
extensive  plains,  and  the  climate  is  cool  and  healthful. 
There  are  few  portions  of  South  America  so  well  suited  to 
colonization  by  Europeans,  but  on  account  of  the  remote 
location  and  the  lack  of  means  of  communication  it  will  be 
several  decades  before  this  vast  and  fruitful  region  will 
become  inhabited. 

It  required  about  a  week's  time  to  cross  the  extensive 
Cerro  do  Norte.  The  type  of  country  gradually  changes. 
The  vegetation  of  the  chapadao  gives  way  to  a  taller  growth, 
and  the  banks  of  the  numerous  streams  are  heavily  for- 
ested. Occasionally  all  other  vegetation  is  superseded  by 
extensive  areas  of  wild  pineapples.  Many  square  miles  are 
covered  with  dense  thickets  of  the  plants;  during  the  greater 
part  of  three  days'  ride  we  were  seldom  out  of  sight  of 
them.  The  fruit  was  just  ripening  by  countless  millions;  it 
was  small  but  of  delicious  flavor.  The  Indians  ate  quanti- 
ties and  also  made  wine  of  it. 

We  added  few  specimens  to  the  collection  after  leaving 
Utiarity.  Animal  life  was  not  abundant,  and  the  rapid 
pace  at  which  the  expedition  was  compelled  to  move  left 
no  time  for  collecting.  The  Nhambiquaras  came  to  our 
camp  almost  daily.  They  usually  approached  unarmed, 
having  concealed  their  bows  and  arrows  some  distance 
away;  that  was  a  sign  of  peaceful  intentions.  One  day  we 
passed  one  of  their  settlements;  it  contained  a  few  low, 
round  huts  made  of  poles  covered  with  grass;  one  small 
opening  served  as  the  doorway.  We  also  encountered  a 
number  of  them  on  the  march.  A  solitary  man  walked 
first,  carrying  his  bow  and  arrows  only;  about  fifty  yards 
behind  came  a  woman,  heavily  burdened  with  baskets, 
calabashes,  and  children.  Another  man  followed,  and  then 
a  second  woman,  and  so  on  until  the  whole  band  had  passed. 
The  reason  for  this  formation  is  apparent.  As  the  men  are 


238  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

first  and  are  the  fighters,  they  must  be  on  the  alert  and 
ready  to  face  danger  without  an  instant's  delay;  were  they 
encumbered  with  the  family  impedimenta  the  delay  oc- 
casioned in  ridding  themselves  of  it  before  being  able  to 
use  their  weapons  might  be  fatal  to  the  whole  family. 
.  We  found  an  interesting  little  animal  called  cururu 
(Ctenomys)  at  a  place  named  Jose  Bonifacio,  reached  Feb- 
ruary 23.  It  is  of  gopher-like  appearance  and  habits,  and 
is  said  never  to  come  out  of  the  ground.  It  throws  up 
mounds  of  earth  at  irregular  intervals  of  from  a  few  feet 
to  ten  yards  apart,  and  some  of  them  are  very  large — three 
feet  across  and  eighteen  inches  high.  We  were  very  de- 
sirous of  securing  one  of  these  animals,  but  as  there  were 
no  traps  available  for  the  purpose,  six  Nhambiquaras  were 
induced  to  dig  open  one  of  the  burrows.  At  first  the  In- 
dians, guided  by  the  mounds  and  aided  by  a  sharpened 
stick,  followed  the  galleries,  which  were  about  a  foot  be- 
neath the  surface,  and  at  intervals  of  ten  yards  blocked 
them  by  stamping  down  the  earth  into  the  hole.  We  re- 
turned a  half -hour  later  and  found  that  the  plug  between 
two  of  these  sections  had  been  opened,  so  knew  just  where 
the  creature  was  bottled  up. 

The  Indians  now  opened  the  entire  section  of  the  gallery 
and  found  a  hole  going  almost  straight  down,  which,  they 
explained,  led  to  the  nest.  A  soldier  was  now  called  with 
a  hoe,  and  the  work  of  excavation  was  begun.  In  order 
that  the  hole  might  not  be  filled  up,  a  long,  pliable  stick 
was  inserted,  and  this  served  as  a  guide.  The  Indians 
worked  with  pointed  sticks  and  threw  out  the  loose  earth 
with  their  hands.  Frequently  they  relieved  one  another. 
When  near  the  end  of  the  work  the  animal  could  be  felt  with 
a  stick;  they  became  greatly  excited  and  worked  in  feverish 
haste,  as  a  fox-terrier  might  after  a  rat,  and  kept  up  a  con- 
tinuous yelling.  They  were  covered  with  earth  from  head 
to  foot;  ears,  eyes,  nose,  and  hair  were  caked  with  sand 
and  clay,  and  the  naked  bodies  looked  as  if  they  had  just 
emerged  from  a  mud-wallow.  Finally  one  threw  away 


A  FORTY  DAYS'  RIDE  239 

his  stick,  inserted  his  arm  into  the  hole,  and  with  a  yell 
of  triumph  jumped  up,  holding  aloft  the  kicking  little  crea- 
ture by  the  tail.  Then  he  flung  it  from  him  into  the  grass. 
The  animal  seemed  bewildered  above  ground  and  could 
not  run  fast. 

The  hole,  after  leaving  the  upper  gallery,  descended  eight 
feet,  and  then  ran  in  a  horizontal  direction  fifteen  feet.  At 
the  end  was  a  small  cavity,  but  no  nest.  Small  bunches  of 
grass  were  found  in  the  gallery  which  had  been  pulled 
down  by  the  roots. 

The  excavation  measured  fifteen  feet  long,  eight  feet 
deep  and  three  feet  wide,  and  it  required  half  a  day  for  the 
Indians  to  complete  the  work. 

The  Indians  are  fond  of  the  animal's  flesh,  and  often  dig 
them  out  to  eat. 

At  a  camp  named  Sete  de  Setembro  the  two  divisions  of 
the  expedition  were  reunited.  Captain  Amilcar  and  his 
party  had  arrived  a  day  or  two  before,  and  a  halt  was 
made  to  divide  the  equipment  and  provisions  between 
what  were  to  be  the  Duvida  and  Gy-Parana  parties.  The 
Rio  da  Duvida  was  only  ten  kilometres  away,  and  on  Feb- 
ruary 27  we  reached  its  banks.  It  is  a  silent,  swift  stream 
about  sixty-five  feet  wide  at  this  point,  spanned  by  a  sub- 
stantial wooden  bridge.  A  number  of  canoes,  some  of 
them  old  and  water-logged  from  use,  were  tied  at  the  land- 
ing. No  time  was  lost  in  loading  them  and  making  ready 
for  the  start  into  the  unknown. 


CHAPTER  XVI 
THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA 

WHILE  we  were  on  the  Paraguay  River  it  was  decided 
that  upon  reaching  the  Rio  da  Duvida  the  expedition  should 
be  divided  into  two  sections,  as  a  large  party  always  de- 
creases the  chances  of  success  in  an  unexplored  region. 
Colonel  Roosevelt  suggested  that  Cherrie  and  I  draw  lots, 
or  to  settle  the  matter  in  any  way  we  chose  as  to  which 
one  should  accompany  him.  After  due  consideration  it 
seemed  to  me  that,  as  Cherrie*  was  the  older  and  more  ex- 
perienced man,  he  was  justly  entitled  to  accompany  the 
colonel  on  the  journey  down  the  new  river;  so  I  volunteered 
to  join  the  party  which  planned  to  descend  the  Gy-Parana. 

The  eventful  day  arrived  at  last,  when  the  expedition 
must  separate;  we  had  looked  forward  in  eager  anticipa- 
tion to  the  end  of  the  long  ride  across  the  Brazilian  chapa- 
dao  and  the  beginning  of  river  work,  but  now  that  the  goal 
had  been  attained  without  serious  mishap,  thirty-seven  days 
after  leaving  the  Upper  Paraguay,  the  division  of  the  expe- 
dition seemed  to  have  come  all  too  soon. 

To  better  organize  the  two  different  forces,  our  party 
had  halted  at  a  point  called  Sete  de  Setembro,  ten  kilo- 
metres this  side  of  the  Rio  da  Duvida,  while  the  other 
division  had  pushed  on  to  the  point  of  embarkation.  We 
reached  their  camp  early  February  27,  1914,  just  as  the 
tents  were  being  taken  down  and  the  canoes  loaded,  pre- 
paratory to  the  plunge  into  the  unknown.  A  short  time 
later  everything  was  in  readiness,  and  farewells  were  ex- 
changed with  Colonel  Roosevelt  and  with  the  Brazilian 
officers.  Then,  with  a  parting  "Good  luck !"  their  dugouts 
swung  into  the  current  and  were  whisked  away.  For  sev- 
eral minutes  we  stood  upon  the  fragile  structure  that 
bridged  the  unexplored  river  and  stared  at  the  dark  forest 

240 


-4JS^ telegraph  line 

automobile  road 

=- railroad 

.1 


Sketch  map  of  the  south-central  part  of  the  Amazon  drainage  system 
Scale,°l:  12,000,000. 

The  party  of  which  the  writer  was  a  member  descended  the  Rio  Commemo- 
racao  and  the  Gy-Parand  to  the  Madeira.  From  here  Manaos  on  the  Amazon 
was  reached  by  the  regular  steamer  route  down  the  Madeira. 

The  drainage  between  the  Upper  Paraguay  and  the  Madeira  is  based  on 
the  surveys  of  the  Brazilian  Telegraph  Commission,  so  far  as  available.  Note 
the  recently  explored  course  of  the  Rio  Ananas  (The  Geographical  Review,  Janu- 
ary, 1916,  p.  50,  and  February,  pp.  143-144),  and  the  completed  telegraph-line 
from  Cuyabd  to  Santo  Antonio  (Bulletin  American  Geographical  Society,  Sep- 
tember, 1915,  p.  693).  The  latter  is  taken  from  a  map  in  the  Rio  de  Janeiro 
newspaper  A  Noite  for  October  25,  1915. 

241 


242  IN  THE  WILDS  OP  SOUTH  AMERICA 

that  shut  our  erstwhile  leader  and  his  Brazilian  companions 
from  view;  and  then,  filled  with  misgivings  as  to  whether  or 
not  we  should  ever  see  them  again,  we  turned  our  thoughts 
to  the  task  before  us. 

Our  party  consisted  of  Captain  Amilcar  de  Magalhaes,  a 
remarkably  skilful  and  wholly  tireless  leader,  and  Lieutenant 
Joaquim  de  Memo,  of  the  Brazilian  Army,  Doctor  Euzebio 
Paulo  de  Oliveira,  a  geologist,  and  Sefior  Henrique  Heinisch, 
a  taxidermist,  all  of  the  Brazilian  Telegraph  Commission, 
besides  myself;  then  there  were  some  thirty-odd  camaradas, 
or  native  assistants.  We  had  a  very  large  pack-train  of 
mules  and  oxen,  as  that  wing  of  the  expedition,  in  charge 
of  Captain  Amilcar,  which  had  hitherto  travelled  ahead  of 
the  main  party,  was  to  proceed  with  us  from  this  point. 
Our  plan  was  to  continue  overland  to  the  headwaters  of  the 
Gy-Parana  and  to  descend  that  stream  to  the  Madeira, 
taking  observations  as  we  went,  for,  in  common  with  many 
of  the  rivers  of  the  South  American  continent,  the  course 
of  this  stream  has  not  been  accurately  mapped.1  Zoologi- 
cally speaking,  we  were  in  a  most  interesting  and  almost 
unknown  country,  and  no  opportunity  could  be  lost  to  add 
to  our  already  large  and  constantly  growing  collection  of 
both  mammals  and  birds. 

We  left  the  Duvida  (now  Rio  Theodore)  shortly  before 
noon;  but  it  had  rained  nearly  the  entire  day  and  the  trail 
was  indescribably  bad;  besides,  the  animals  had  completed 
their  thirty-eighth  day  of  travel  without  proper  food  or 
rest.  That  night  we  camped  beside  the  trail  on  a  site 
cleared  for  the  purpose  by  the  camaradas;  we  had  taken 

1  The  Gy-Parana  had  been  descended  by  two  parties  which  Colonel  Rondon 
detached  for  this  purpose  from  his  main  expedition  of  1909.  The  first,  under 
the  zoologist  Alipio  de  Mirando  Ribeiro,  went  down  the  Pimenta  Bueno  and 
the  Gy-Parand  to  the  Madeira;  the  second,  under  Lieutenant  Antonio  Pyri- 
neus  de  Souza,  descended  the  Jarii  and  the  Gy-Parana  (see  map).  It  was  the 
reconnoissance  survey  made  by  the  first  party  that  established  the  fact  that 
the  Gy-Parana,  instead  of  flowing  northwest  throughout  its  course,  as  until 
then  supposed,  turns  abruptly  north  in  1\1A°  south  latitude,  and  flows  in  this 
direction  for  nearly  three  degrees,  until,  at  another  abrupt  bend  in  9°  south, 
it  turns  west  and  empties  into  the  Madeira. 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        243 

only  the  canvas  flies,  as  it  had  been  found  necessary  to 
abandon  the  wall-tents  some  little  distance  back  on  ac- 
count of  their  great  weight.  There  was  no  feed  for  the 
animals,  but  the  men  had  cut  a  quantity  of  palm-leaves 
growing  abundantly  in  the  forest,  which  the  oxen  refused 
to  eat,  however. 

The  trail  had  now  left  the  open  chapadao  and  wound  be- 
tween high  walls  of  dark,  forest;  instead  of  the  monotonous 
level  of  the  plain,  the  country  was  broken  and  hilly,  with 
numerous  small  streams  trickling  through  the  dividing  ra- 
vines, and  it  rained  almost  continuously;  if  we  had  suc- 
ceeded in  evading  the  rainy  season  heretofore,  it  descended 
on  us  now  with  doubled  vigor. 

A  very  wide  swath  had  been  cut  through  the  forest  for 
the  telegraph-line  to  protect  the  wires  from  falling  trunks 
and  branches;  so  recent  had  been  the  work  that  the  shriv- 
elled leaves  still  clung  to  the  prostrate  trees,  and  the  thick 
second  growth,  which  springs  up  immediately  where  the 
sunlight  is  permitted  to  reach  the  ground,  was  just  sprout- 
ing. The  ground  was  covered  with  fruits  of  many  kinds, 
most  of  them  insipid  or  of  acrid  flavor,  but  the  herds  of 
peccaries  seemed  to  relish  them;  and  the  flocks  of  parrots 
and  macaws  quarrelled  noisily  overhead  in  their  struggles 
to  reach  some  particularly  appetizing  morsel.  One  of  the 
things  that  especially  attracted  our  attention  was  the  great 
number  of  hard,  cannon-ball-like  shells  that  littered  the 
trail;  they  were  the  empty  casques  of  the  castanha,  or  Brazil 
nut,  which  grew  abundantly  through-out  the  forest.  The 
Indians  had  opened  most  of  them,  in  what  manner  I  am 
unable  to  say,  as  they  are  so  hard  the  blows  of  a  hammer 
fail  to  make  any  impression,  and  extracted  the  dozen  or 
more  triangular  nuts  from  each.  The  trees  upon  which 
they  grow  are  remarkable  for  their  height  and  great  thick- 
ness; not  infrequently  we  saw  one  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high  and  four  feet  in  diameter  without  a  single  branch  lower 
than  sixty  or  seventy  feet.  Graves  were  numerous  by  the 
wayside;  I  counted  fifteen,  near  one  another,  each  newly 


244  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

made  mound  being  marked  by  a  rude  cross  without  name 
or  inscription;  they  indicated  the  burial  sites  of  camaradas, 
victims  to  the  dread  beri-beri  and  malaria. 

During  our  second  night's  camp  we  heard  the  gruff, 
cough-like  roar  of  a  jaguar  not  far  away,  and  next  morning 
the  men  reported  that  the  creature  had  killed  one  of  the 
oxen.  I  went  to  see  the  slain  animal  and  found  that  it  was 
badly  bitten  about  the  neck  and  that  one  of  the  thighs  had 
been  partly  eaten;  hi  its  enfeebled  state  the  ox  had  been  an 
easy  kill  for  the  big  spotted  cat.  We  made  no  attempt  to 
follow  the  jaguar,  but  shouldered  our  guns  and  started  on 
the  home-stretch  of  the  long  journey.  Again  it  rained 
heavily,  though  intermittently,  and  frequently  the  mud 
was  knee-deep:  but  the  knowledge  that  the  river  and  rest 
lay  but  thirteen  kilometres  away  acted  as  a  stimulus  to 
the  men,  and  even  the  weary  animals  responded  to  the 
ceaseless  urging  of  their  drivers  and  panted  along  as  if  they, 
too,  understood  that  the  end  of  their  toil  was  at  hand. 

At  about  four  o'clock  that  afternoon  our  destination  was 
reached.  From  the  top  of  a  rather  high  hill  we  had  an  un- 
obstructed view  down  the  wide,  newly  cleared  lane  through 
the  forest;  a  small  cluster  of  mud-walled,  palm-thatched 
huts  nestled  in  the  depression  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  with 
a  patch  of  corn  and  rice  growing  to  one  side;  a  hundred 
yards  beyond  sparkled  the  river,  and  on  all  sides  of  the 
little  clearing  rose  the  Amazonian  forest.  The  little  build- 
ing housing  the  telegraphic  equipment  was  placed  at  our 
disposal,  and  tents  were  erected  for  the  camaradas,  who 
straggled  in  with  the  footsore  pack-train  until  a  late  hour. 
The  animals  were  given  their  liberty  and  bountiful  feeds  of 
corn  and  fodder,  so  that  within  a  week  many  of  them  were 
in  condition  to  start  on  the  back  trail,  a  comparatively 
easy  trip,  as  there  were  no  heavy  loads  to  carry.  Many  of 
the  natives  were  also  sent  back,  while  others  were  retained 
in  the  service  of  the  expedition;  one  detachment  was  sent 
to  the  camp  of  the  laborers  who  were  working  on  the  tele- 
graph-line, which  extended  two  kilometres  beyond.  This 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        245 

was  the  end  of  the  survey,  Barao  de  Melgago  being  the 
name  of  the  last  station,  and  a  force  of  about  fifty  men 
were  engaged  cutting  an  opening  for  the  continuation  of 
the  line.  At  the  rate  they  were  working  it  was  estimated 
that  the  line  to  Manaos  would  be  completed  in  about  two 
years. 

We  had  expected  to  find  a  craft  of  some  kind  awaiting  us 
so  that  we  might  immediately  pursue  our  journey  down  the 
river,  but  in  this  we  were  disappointed,  although,  as  it  later 
developed,  a  boat  was  then  on  its  way  to  us,  sent  by  order 
of  Colonel  Rondon.  There  were  only  two  small  dugouts 
available,  which  were  entirely  inadequate  for  our  purpose, 
so  the  men  were  put  to  work  cutting  down  a  tree  of  large 
size  and  hollowing  out  a  canoe  which  would  hold  the  party 
and  the  necessary  luggage.  This  work  we  estimated  would 
take  some  weeks,  so  in  the  meantime  we  busied  ourselves 
exploring  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Barao  de  Melga^o. 

A  short  reconnoissance  through  the  forest  revealed  a 
veritable  zoological  wonderland.  I  was  consequently  very 
glad  that  we  were  delayed,  as  this  gave  me  an  opportunity 
to  study  the  fauna  of  a  zoologically  unknown  region,  and 
to  work  on  some  of  the  problems  of  nature  with  which  we 
are  constantly  confronted,  but  of  which  so  little  is  known. 
One  of  the  facts  that  no  field-naturalist  can  fail  to  have 
thrust  upon  his  notice  is  the  exact  precision  and  nicety 
with  which  the  balance  in  nature  is  preserved.  Take  the 
familiar  example  of  the  oyster.  In  its  early  stages  of  de- 
velopment it  is  subject  to  the  raids  of  such  a  host  of  ene- 
mies and  adverse  conditions  that  out  of  a  million  eggs  only 
a  few  bivalves  reach  maturity;  to  offset  this  wholesale  de- 
struction nature  has  provided  that  a  single  oyster  may 
lay  several  millions  of  eggs,  and  thus  the  race  is  preserved. 
Birds,  to  a  less  extent,  are  subject  to  this  same  thoughtful 
provision;  therefore  we  find  that  the  species  which  are  sub- 
ject to  many  dangers  during  the  nesting-period  or  which 
undertake  long,  perilous  seasonal  migrations,  lay  compara- 
tively large  sets  of  eggs;  this  is  best  evidenced  by  ducks 


246  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

and  quail.  Species  which  are  subject  to  the  natural  dan- 
gers of  migration  only  and  are  protected  during  the  nest- 
ing-season, comparatively  speaking,  rear  small  broods  of 
young;  warblers,  thrushes,  and  a  number  of  our  own  native 
birds  would  come  in  this  category;  to  further  offset  the 
loss,  some  of  these  latter  may  even  rear  two  broods  in  a 
season.  When  we  reach  the  tropics  a  marked  change  is 
noticeable;  the  extremes  in  climatic  conditions  are  usually 
represented  by  the  wet  and  dry  seasons;  there  are  few  ene- 
mies and  food  is  abundant,  consequently  the  loss  of  life  is 
comparatively  small.  If  reproduction  proceeded  there  at 
the  same  rate  as  in  the  northern  lands,  it  must  be  obvious 
that  the  country  would  soon  be  overstocked;  but  again  it 
has  been  decreed  that  the  equity  should  be  preserved,  and 
the  great  majority  of  tropical  birds  nest  but  once  a  year, 
and  then  the  full  complement  of  eggs  is  but  two.  Of  course 
there  are  a  number  of  exceptions  on  each  side,  and  on  such 
matters  it  is  difficult  to  generalize,  but  in  the  majority  of 
cases  this  will  be  found  to  be  true. 

On  one  of  my  walks  in  the  forest  I  came  upon  a  troop  of 
peculiar  little  monkeys  of  the  saki  family  (cacajao)  feeding 
in  the  top  of  a  tall  wild  fig-tree.  They  differed  from  all 
other  known  members  of  the  genus  by  being  entirely  black, 
with  snow-white  noses.  While  feeding  they  were  quiet, 
and  the  only  thing  that  betrayed  their  presence  was  the 
constant  pattering  of  small  particles  of  fruit  upon  the  dry 
leaves  carpeting  the  ground.  Presently  they  took  fright, 
and  away  they  went  in  a  series  of  leaps  and  bounds,  so 
that  the  tree-tops  were  agitated  as  by  a  violent  gust  of 
wind;  they  uttered  queer  little  whining  squeaks  as  they 
ran  and  soon  disappeared  from  view.  A  small  one  of  the 
same  species  which  I  owned  was  a  most  amusing  little  pet 
and  never  failed  to  gain  a  place  in  the  affections  of  any  one 
who  beheld  it — even  the  most  calloused  camarada;  it  was 
of  a  most  playful  and  friendly  disposition  and,  if  petted, 
made  the  most  ridiculous  faces  and  bubbled  with  laughter. 
Another  monkey  that  was  common  in  the  forest  was  a 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        247 

species  of  Ateles,  or  spider-monkey,  which  is  very  appro- 
priately named  on  account  of  its  slender  build  and  long, 
wiry  arms  and  legs;  it  also  is  of  a  black  color,  and  swings 
its  way  through  the  branches  much  after  the  order  of  a 
gibbon,  although  it  lacks  the  latter's  agility.  The  Indians 
are  very  fond  of  this  species,  both  for  food  and  as  pets;  but 
whatever  epicurean  merits  may  attach  to  the  flesh,  in  ap- 
pearance the  creatures  are  most  repulsive.  The  face  is 
pinched  and  drawn,  with  a  long-suffering  expression  about 
the  eyes,  while  a  tuft  of  long,  stiff  hair  extending  over  the 
forehead  like  a  ragged  cap  gives  it  a  greater  look  of  misery 
and  grotesqueness.  One  specimen  which  I  collected  mea- 
sured six  feet  two  inches  from  the  tips  of  the  fingers  to  the 
tip  of  the  tail. 

Birds  were  not  uncommon,  but  rather  hard  to  observe  on 
account  of  the  density  of  the  vegetation.  Near  the  river 
stretched  a  wide  band  of  bamboo,  beautiful  to  look  upon 
but  impossible  to  penetrate  without  the  aid  of  a  machete. 
Just  beyond,  the  trees  grew  tall  and  in  close  proximity, 
giant  castanhas,  heveas,  and  ironwoods  intermingling  their 
branches  to  form  a  canopy  of  deepest  green,  impervious  to 
sunlight  and  through  which  rain  filtered  slowly;  palms, 
ferns,  and  thorny  shrubbery  formed  a  dense  undergrowth 
near  the  streams,  so  that  progress  at  best  was  slow.  From 
all  sides  came  the  clear,  ringing  "  hoo-whee-whee-hoo "  of 
the  gold-bird,  or  whistling  cotinga,  often  misnamed  the 
bell-bird,  and  although  the  sound  came  from  but  a  few  feet 
overhead,  it  was  usually  impossible  to  locate  the  dull,  slate- 
colored  songster  perched  motionless  on  a  well-screened 
branch.  The  smaller  species  of  birds  travelled  in  large  flocks, 
doubtless  deriving  some  mutual  benefit  from  this  mode  of 
living;  usually  the  band  was  preceded  by  a  few  scouting 
brown  wood-hewers,  some  with  slender  bills  four  inches 
long  bent  in  a  half-circle,  flitting  silently  from  trunk  to 
trunk,  lighting  low  down  and  running  up  rapidly,  while 
they  searched  the  crevices  in  the  bark  for  insects;  then 
came  the  vast  host  of  vireos,  warblers,  flycatchers,  tana- 


248  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

gers,  and  woodpeckers,  completely  investing  the  trees  in 
their  all-absorbing  quest  of  a  livelihood.  Twigs  snapped, 
seeds  dropped,  the  woods  seemed  full  of  fluttering  wings 
and  chirping  voices;  but  in  a  few  moments  the  noise  grew 
faint  and  stopped;  the  tireless  army  had  gone  its  way,  and 
the  vanguard  of  trogons  suddenly  appeared,  hovered  in 
mid-air  to  snap  off  an  enticing  fruit,  and  then  hurried  away. 
Occasionally  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  shoot  a  curas- 
sow,  a  large  turkey-like  bird,  and  then  our  Brazilian  chef 
prepared  the  national  dish  called  canja;  it  consists  of  a 
fowl  and  rice  boiled  together  and  is  delicious. 

On  account  of  its  large  size,  work  on  the  dugout  pro- 
gressed slowly;  a  section  of  the  trunk,  some  thirty  feet 
long,  had  been  cut  off  where  the  tree  had  fallen,  and  this 
was  being  hollowed  out  with  adzes,  while  short-handled 
axes  were  used  in  dressing  down  the  exterior.  After  twelve 
days  of  continuous  hewing  the  dugout  began  to  assume  the 
appearance  of  a  seaworthy  craft,  and  we  figured  that  she 
would  be  ready  to  launch  at  the  end  of  another  two  weeks; 
but  the  next  day  a  bateldo  arrived.  Her  captain  had  been 
fighting  his  way  up  the  Gy-Parand  over  three  months  in 
his  efforts  to  reach  Barao  de  Melgago,  having  been  sent 
from  the  Madeira  by  order  of  Colonel  Rondon. 

We  loaded  our  meagre  outfit  into  the  batelao,  which  was 
a  good-sized  craft  built  of  boards  nailed  over  heavy  wooden 
ribs,  and  with  a  squared  tree-trunk  for  a  keel;  an  arched 
palm-leaf  roof  covered  a  section  in  the  centre,  under  which 
we  sat  to  avoid  the  rain  or  sun.  This  style  of  boat  is  in 
general  use  on  the  larger  tropical  rivers  and  corresponds 
with  the  falca  of  the  Orinoco  and  the  champan  of  the  Mag- 
dalena.  A  crew  of  eighteen  men  was  mustered,  all  of  whom 
were  more  than  willing  to  leave  their  pestilential  environs, 
and  we  were  soon  shooting  down-stream  with  the  rapid 
current.  Captain  Amilcar  had  gone  on  ahead  with  the 
small  canoes  in  order  to  survey  the  river.  They  carried 
a  sighting-rod  with  red  disks  and  a  telemeter  for  measur- 
ing distances;  a  compass  gave  them  the  direction. 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        249 

A  quarter  of  an  hour  after  starting  we  reached  the 
camp  of  the  telegraphic  commission  and  made  a  short  stop 
to  take  aboard  a  number  of  men  who  were  suffering  with 
fever  and  beri-beri;  shattered  wrecks  of  humanity  whose 
only  hope  of  life  lay  in  flight.  I  saw  a  number  of  the  ca- 
maradas  who  had  come  across  Matto  Grosso  with  us,  and 
it  was  surprising  to  note  the  great  change  which  only  two 
weeks  in  the  steaming,  insect-infested  forest  had  wrought; 
several  of  them  were  already  suffering  from  violent  attacks 
of  malaria,  and  their  faces  were  colorless  and  sallow;  others 
who  had  been  in  the  region  longer  stared  at  the  batelao 
with  sunken,  lustreless  eyes  in  which  not  even  a  vestige  of 
interest  in  our  visit  or  of  hope  was  evident;  a  few  had  ap- 
parently reached  the  stage  where  the  sight  of  the  twelve 
newly  made  mounds  on  the  hilltop  no  longer  aroused  feel- 
ings of  dread  or  apprehension,  but  rather  of  indifference 
tempered  with  longing  for  a  welcome  release. 

The  Commemoragao,  the  headwater  branch  of  the  Gy- 
Parand,  on  which  we  were,  is  a  deep  river  from  three  hun- 
dred to  a  thousand  feet  wide,  with  reddish  water  and  a 
swift  current.  It  was  not  necessary  for  the  men  to  ply  the 
oars  except  when  rounding  some  sharp  bend  where  steerage- 
way  was  required,  and  this  was  fortunate,  as  it  rained  so 
much  of  the  time  that  the  men  were  glad  to  seek  the  pro- 
tection offered  by  the  covered  portion  of  the  boat.  In  the 
intervals  between  the  deluging  showers  the  sun  blazed  down 
mercilessly;  trees  on  both  sides  of  the  narrow  lane  of  water 
sparkled  as  if  bedecked  with  jewels.  In  places  the  forest 
rose  from  the  river's  edge  in  sheer  walls  of  variegated  green; 
tree-trunks,  brush,  and  palms  united  into  one  solid  battle- 
ment by  mosses,  climbing  lilies,  and  ensnaring  creepers. 
Again,  clumps  of  graceful  ita-palms  leaned  far  out  over  the 
water  and  then  rose  in  a  series  of  stately,  feather-crowned 
columns.  At  frequent  intervals  we  had  glimpses  of  the 
animal  life  that  lurked  within  the  impenetrable  barrier  of 
the  forest  fastness.  Monkeys  were  especially  plentiful,  and 
within  an  hour  after  starting  we  had  seen  four  distinct  spe- 


250  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

cies,  representing  as  many  families;  there  were  files  of 
black  howlers,  the  males  jet-black,  while  the  females  are 
of  a  straw-color,  moving  leisurely  through  the  branches; 
troops  of  dainty  squirrel-monkeys,  with  deep-chestnut 
backs,  grayish  heads,  and  white  faces,  scampered  over  the 
tops  of  the  lower  trees.  Black  spider-monkeys  sat  in  the 
highest  crotches  and  gazed  down  at  us  in  stupid  perplexity, 
and  once  we  startled  a  family  of  woolly  little  night-monkeys 
of  a  grayish  color,  which  had  selected  a  thick  clump  of  over- 
hanging vegetation  as  their  diurnal  sleeping-place.  Large 
flocks  of  blue-and-yellow  macaws,  flying  two  by  two,  crossed 
the  river  high  overhead,  doubtless  on  their  way  to  some 
choice  feeding-ground.  Kingfishers  sped  away  in  front  of 
the  hurrying  batelao,  and  from  the  depths  of  the  woods 
came  the  muffled  sound  of  an  ivory-bnTs  tapping  on  a  hol- 
low trunk. 

That  night  we  reached  the  junction  of  the  rivers  Com- 
memoragao  and  Pimento,  Bueno,  the  latter  a  stream  not 
less  than  a  thousand  yards  wide,  with  a  great  volume  of 
water.  The  river  formed  by  the  confluence  of  these  two 
streams  is  known  as  the  Gy-Parana\  We  had  covered  a 
distance  of  eighty  kilometres.  In  ascending,  it  had  taken 
the  batelao  nineteen  days  to  cover  the  same  stretch  of  river 
that  we  had  just  descended  in  one  day. 

Of  course,  the  surveying  canoes  could  not  travel  at  this 
rapid  pace,  so  the  two  parties  became  separated.  In  the 
very  beginning  Captain  Amilcar's  party  had  suffered  an 
accident  which  came  near  ending  fatally  for  several  of  the 
men  in  his  canoe.  Their  work  necessitated  frequent  halts, 
and  to  bring  the  dugouts  to  a  stop  while  racing  down-stream 
was  no  easy  task;  so  they  had  adopted  the  method  of  driv- 
ing them  into  the  vegetation  and  then  holding  on  to  the 
branches  while  a  sight  was  taken  with  the  telemeter.  On 
one  of  these  occasions  a  bushmaster  fully  seven  feet  long 
was  shaken  from  the  overhanging  brush  and  fell  into  the 
canoe ;  the  panic-stricken  crew  leaped  into  the  water.  Cap- 
tain Amilcar  retained  his  presence  of  mind  and  shot  the 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA         251 

snake,  but  in  the  meantime  several  of  the  men  had  been 
swept  down-stream  and  were  on  the  verge  of  drowning  be- 
fore he  could  reach  them;  the  geologist  had  gone  to  the 
bottom,  but  was  rescued  and  revived  with  some  difficulty; 
thereafter  he  travelled  with  us  in  the  batelao. 

There  were  numbers  of  small  alligators  in  the  river,  not 
over  four  feet  long,  called  jacaretinga;  later  on  we  had  the 
cook  prepare  one,  as  they  were  said  to  be  good  to  eat. 
The  flesh  was  of  a  white  color  when  cooked,  and  tender, 
but  it  possessed  an  objectionable  muddy  flavor,  so  that  we 
could  eat  but  little  of  it;  however,  the  natives  liked  it. 

The  next  day  we  covered  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
eight  kilometres.  The  current  in  the  Gy-Parana  is  not  so 
strong  as  in  the  Commemoragao,  but,  the  weather  being 
fair,  the  men  pulled  at  the  oars  steadily  during  the  twelve 
hours'  travel,  with  only  short  periods  for  rest  and  refresh- 
ment. All  meals  were  cooked  aboard,  on  a  fire  built  on  a 
box  of  sand  in  the  prow.  Insects  were  not  particularly 
troublesome,  as  we  kept  to  the  middle  of  the  stream,  which, 
receiving  the  water  of  numerous  good-sized  tributaries,  was 
constantly  growing  wider.  There  were  abundant  signs  of 
the  close  proximity  of  Indians  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 
We  saw  some  palm-leaf  lean-tos  used  for  overnight  stops, 
with  the  charred  sticks  of  a  camp-fire  in  front;  where  the 
water  eddied  slowly  against  a  crumbling  bank,  bamboo 
stakes  protruded  above  the  muddy  stream — remnants  of 
an  ancient  fish-trap — and  occasionally  we  passed  a  small 
cleared  spot,  now  overgrown  with  rank  weeds  and  second- 
growth  sprouts,  which  marked  the  site  of  an  old  plantation. 

Realizing  the  importance  of  obtaining  the  good-will  of 
the  wild  folk  of  whose  existence  in  the  surrounding  forest 
there  was  such  abundant  evidence,  the  Brazilian  Govern- 
ment had  erected  a  number  of  small  bamboo  and  palm-leaf 
sheds  various  distances  apart,  near  some  of  the  more  re- 
cently used  trails  that  led  from  the  water  into  the  dark 
jungle.  Under  each  rough  shelter  a  bench,  made  of  long 
poles  laid  across  sticks  driven  into  the  ground,  had  been 


252  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

built.  It  was  the  custom  of  the  officials  in  going  up  or 
down  the  river  to  stop  at  each  of  these  stations  and  place 
beads,  knives,  and  trinkets  on  the  benches  as  a  peace- 
offering  to  the  Indians;  but  so  reticent  had  been  the  latter 
that  not  one  of  the  articles  had  hitherto  been  touched. 
Great  was  our  surprise  and  joy  to  find  that  all  the  precious 
offerings  had  been  removed,  and  that  the  Indians  them- 
selves had  left  a  number  of  tokens  of  friendship  in  return. 
They  were  arrows  six  feet  long,  beautifully  adorned  with 
the  bright-colored  feathers  of  trogons,  toucans,  and  other 
birds;  parcels  of  Brazil  nuts  neatly  done  up  in  leaves;  a 
few  ears  of  maize,  a  feather  head-dress,  and  a  small  pottery 
bowl.  We  collected  all  these  treasures  and  left  many  more 
presents  in  exchange. 

As  we  neared  one  of  the  last  stations  the  sound  of  loud 
hallooing  came  from  the  forest  on  our  right.  We  swung 
the  great  batelao  toward  the  shore.  We  landed,  but  no 
sooner  had  we  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  steep  bank  than  we 
realized  how  cleverly  had  been  arranged  the  plan  by  the 
Indians  to  effect  a  meeting  with  the  mysterious  strangers 
who  were  passing  through  their  country.  Following  a  wide 
path  that  led  into  the  dense  forest  for  a  distance  of  twenty 
yards,  we  suddenly  came  upon  a  small,  swift  stream  that 
sped  through  a  dark  tunnel-like  opening  under  the  dense 
canopy  of  leaves  and  branches.  As  we  stared  in  blank 
amazement  into  the  impenetrable  tangle  of  vegetation  on 
the  other  side  of  the  stream,  there  emerged  from  the  forest 
four  nude,  bronze  figures,  gesticulating  wildly  and  chatter- 
ing in  a  strange  jargon  which,  of  course,  we  could  not  under- 
stand; they  were  of  good  build,  though  inferior  in  physique 
to  the  Nhambiquaras  we  had  seen  on  the  chapadao,  and  not 
over  five  feet  tall,  with  long,  straight  hair,  and,  remarkable 
though  it  is,  the  tangled  hair  of  two  of  them  was  of  a  de- 
cided auburn  color.  Their  bodies  were  plentifully  be- 
smeared with  dark-bluish  paint,  applied  in  queer  zigzag  de- 
signs and  giving  a  grotesque  effect.  No  wilder  scene  can 
be  imagined  than  the  quartet  of  naked,  trembling  savages 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        253 

faintly  outlined  against  the  dim  background  of  merging 
shadows  and  sombre  green;  somehow  they  seemed  to  fit 
into  the  picture  and  to  complete  the  impression  of  primality 
conveyed  by  the  vast  wilderness  of  the  Brazilian  hinter- 
land. Our  captain  held  up  bunches  of  bright-red  beads 
and  started  to  wade  into  the  stream  toward  them,  but  they 
immediately  withdrew  into  the  thick  cover,  so  he  came 
back.  A  moment  later  they  reappeared  and  again  began 
talking  and  waving  their  arms;  by  signs  we  tried  to  induce 
them  to  come  nearer  and  to  assure  them  of  our  peaceful 
intentions.  Finally,  after  a  powwow  with  his  companions, 
one  of  their  number  approached  to  the  margin  of  the  stream 
and  held  out  his  hands.  He  then  pointed  to  one  of  our  men 
and  motioned  for  him  to  take  off  his  clothes  and  come  over 
with  the  presents,  which  was  done;  the  Indian  grabbed 
the  trinkets  from  the  native's  outstretched  hands,  gave 
him  a  violent  push  back,  and  fled  to  his  companions.  This 
was  repeated  a  number  of  times.  Then  we  refused  to  per- 
mit our  man  to  go  farther  than  the  centre  of  the  stream — 
the  water  was  nearly  up  to  his  chin — and  after  lengthy  en- 
treaties the  Indian  waded  out  and  met  him  half-way.  We 
laid  out  an  attractive  assortment  of  beads,  knives,  hatchets, 
and  bright-colored  trinkets  on  our  side  of  the  river  and,  re- 
treating ten  or  fifteen  feet  with  extended  arms,  invited  the 
Indians  to  come  over.  Slowly  they  came,  apparently  with 
many  misgivings.  We  approached  them  in  a  friendly 
manner;  they  made  no  attempt  to  flee,  but  cast  meaning 
glances  behind  them  where,  obviously,  an  armed  force  was 
concealed  near  by  to  protect  them  in  the  event  that  our 
actions  aroused  suspicion.  The  chief  was  an  intelligent 
fellow;  his  first  deed  was  to  enact  before  our  eyes  a  drama 
that  we  shall  never  forget.  Assuming  a  rigid  pose,  he 
pointed  straight  in  front  of  him  with  one  hand,  as  if  tak- 
ing aim;  then  with  a  sudden  "pong"  he  clutched  at  his 
breast  and  fell  upon  his  knees,  gradually  sinking  to  the 
ground,  where  he  lay  moaning.  We  understood  the  ac- 
cusation; one  of  his  tribe  had  been  shot  to  death  by  our 


254  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

people,  probably  a  rubber-collector  farther  down  the  river; 
that  was  the  reason  why  they  had  mistrusted  us.  We 
showed  them  how  to  use  the  machetes  and  hatchets,  and 
they  seemed  delighted;  but  when  we  demonstrated  the 
use  of  matches  their  joy  knew  no  bounds;  they  yelped  and 
danced,  made  weird  grimaces,  and  tried  to  set  the  trees 
and  bushes  afire,  like  so  many  monkeys.  Finally,  upon 
our  urgent  invitation,  the  chief  shouted  a  guttural  com- 
mand, and  three  more  savages  appeared  instantly  and 
joined  the  group,  making  seven  in  all;  the  late  arrivals 
were  also  treated  in  a  generous  manner,  and  then  we  with- 
drew to  our  boat.  Before  leaving,  however,  we  promised 
to  return  and  bring  more  machetes  and  matches,  which 
they  seemed  particularly  to  appreciate,  and  they  in  turn 
promised  to  have  the  bench  in  the  palm-leaf  shed  heaped 
with  bows  and  arrows  and  other  things  of  their  making, 
promises  which  were  religiously  kept  on  both  sides. 

Our  next  halt  was  forty  kilometres  farther  down-stream 
at  a  rubber-camp  known  as  Urupa\  There  were  several 
palm-leaf  huts  standing  on  a  slight  elevation,  so  we  took 
our  hammocks  and  mosquito-nets  and  spent  the  night 
ashore.  Travelling  eighty  kilometres  the  next  day,  we 
reached  another  rubber-camp  called  La  Pena.  The  sur- 
rounding forest  appeared  most  attractive,  and  it  was  said 
that  a  footpath  led  far  into  the  interior  to  the  side  of  an 
old  Indian  village,  so  I  decided  to  remain  at  this  point  a 
few  days  to  collect.  However,  a  short  walk  down  the  trail 
soon  showed  that  this  plan  was  not  feasible;  the  whole 
country  was  inundated  to  a  depth  of  several  feet,  and  there 
were  so  many  fallen  trees  and  clumps  of  thorny  undergrowth 
that  hunting  was  out  of  the  question. 

The  next  day  we  reached  Monte  Christo,  the  depot  of  a 
large  rubber  concern  which  has  its  headquarters  on  the 
Madeira;  about  one  hundred  men  had  congregated  here  to 
await  the  coming  of  the  dry  season,  when  they  would  begin 
collecting  rubber-latex  from  the  hevea-trees  which  abound 
in  the  forest.  Several  long,  thatched  sheds  housed  the 


A  rubber-camp  on  the  Rio  Gy-Parana. 


A  rubber-camp  on  the  Lower  Gy-Parana, 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        255 

waiting  crowd;  hammocks  were  strung  from  every  avail- 
able post  and  rafter,  giving  the  interior  a  cobwebby  ap- 
pearance, and  around  the  edges  of  the  huts,  protected  from 
the  rain  by  the  low,  ragged  roof  of  grass  and  leaves,  numer- 
ous small  fires  smouldered,  over  which  the  men  boiled  their 
rations  of  beans  or  farinha.  There  were  pure  blacks,  de- 
scendants of  slaves  who  had  been  imported  into  Brazil 
from  Africa  many  years  before;  also  Indians,  Portuguese, 
and  men  in  whose  veins  flowed  the  blood  of  all  three  of 
these  races.  Many  of  them  were  ill  with  fever,  and  had 
large,  vile-looking  ulcers  or  "jungle"  sores,  which  were  said 
to  result  from  the  bite  of  a  small  fly.  This  was  not  surpris- 
ing, as  the  place  was  entirely  surrounded  by  pools  of  black, 
stagnant  water  in  which  clouds  of  mosquitoes  hatched,  and 
no  sanitary  precautions  whatever  were  taken  against  in- 
fection. 

The  natives  are  very  fond  of  pets,  and  numbers  of  ani- 
mals taken  from  the  forest  while  young  were  enjoying  their 
full  liberty,  but  never  ventured  far  from  the  houses.  There 
was  a  collared  peccary,  full  grown  and  very  amiable,  which 
liked  to  be  petted,  and  emitted  short,  low  moans  and  grunts 
when  any  one  was  near  it;  three  curassows,  dignified  but 
restless,  spent  much  of  their  time  preening  their  feathers 
on  a  half-submerged  log.  They  were  beautiful  creatures 
of  a  deep  blue-black  color,  with  white  under  parts  and  a 
wonderful  curled  crest.  A  pair  of  trumpeters  strutted 
about  the  camp;  monkeys  of  the  Cebus  family  and  parrots 
of  several  species  climbed  about  in  the  network  of  ham- 
mocks and  added  their  chorus  of  screams  and  squawks  to 
the  general  confusion. 

We  had  to  leave  the  batelao  at  Monte  Christo  on  account 
of  the  cataract  which  obstructs  the  river  at  this  point,  and 
carry  our  luggage  around  for  a  distance  of  half  a  mile. 
Below  the  rapid  we  found  another  craft  similar  to  the  one 
we  had  just  left — perhaps  a  trifle  larger — and  towed  by  a 
small  wood-burning  launch.  On  the  18th  of  March  all  our 
things,  and  the  sick  men,  several  of  whom  were  in  a  serious 


256  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

condition,  were  carried  aboard  the  waiting  batelaa,  and  the 
next  morning  again  found  us  on  our  way.  The  Gy-Parana 
was  rapidly  becoming  a  vast,  muddy  sea,  comparing  favor- 
ably in  size  to  some  of  the  larger  affluents  of  the  Orinoco, 
such  as  the  Caura  and  the  Ventuari.  The  character  of  the 
vegetation  remained  essentially  the  same,  but  some  of  the 
creepers  that  drooped  from  the  tall  trees  and  trailed  in  the 
water  were  covered  with  clusters  of  yeDow,  pink,  and  pale- 
blue  flowers.  We  saw  and  heard  little  of  the  animal  life, 
as  we  travelled  too  far  from  the  banks.  In  the  afternoon  a 
violent  wind-storm  blew  up  the  river,  accompanied  by  a 
terrific  downpour. 

Soon  after  the  storm  cleared  we  reached  Sao  Joao,  an- 
other rubber-camp,  not  unlike  Monte  Christo.  The  water 
was  so  high  at  this  station  that  we  had  to  use  a  canoe  in 
going  from  one  hut  to  another,  and  the  whole  place  reeked 
with  pestilence.  It  is  infinitely  more  dangerous  to  traverse 
country  of  this  kind  than  to  pass  through  an  entirely  un- 
inhabited region;  the  huts  are  fertile  propagators  and  har- 
borers  of  contagion  of  all  kinds,  to  say  nothing  of  the  dan- 
ger to  which  one  is  exposed  on  account  of  the  more  or  less 
constant  mingling  with  the  natives.  Just  below  Sao  Joao 
the  river  is  again  broken  by  rapids;  we  rowed  down  to  the 
beginning  of  the  turbulent  water  hi  a  canoe  and  then  car- 
ried around  to  the  foot  of  the  falls.  The  distance  is  not 
great,  but  we  had  to  cross  a  high,  rocky  hill,  so  that  we 
were  delayed  a  day  in  making  this  portage.  The  rapids 
are  called  Sao  Feliz  and  are  of  a  formidable  character,  as 
the  bed  of  the  river  is  dotted  with  huge  granite  boulders 
over  and  among  which  the  water  rushes  with  a  roar  that 
can  be  heard  half  a  mile  away.  During  the  dry  season 
these  rocks  are  exposed  by  the  receding  water  and  left  cov- 
ered with  a  thin  scum  of  mud  impregnated  with  salt;  it  is 
said  that  parrots,  parrakeets,  and  macaws  then  come  in 
thousands  to  eat  of  the  saline  deposit,  and  that  they  be- 
come so  tame  great  numbers  of  them  are  killed  with  sticks 
and  eaten  by  the  rubber-collectors.  I  saw  two  macaws 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        257 

nearly  three  feet  in  length,  and  of  a  blood-red  color  with 
blue-and-golden  wings,  that  had  been  caught  the  previous 
year;  they  were  beautiful  creatures,  but  had  the  curious 
habit  of  spending  the  entire  day  squatting  in  a  dark  hole 
under  the  floor  of  their  owner's  hut,  coming  out  only  when 
hungry  and  at  night,  when  they  climbed  to  a  perch  above 
the  door  to  sleep. 

After  dark  our  men  indulged  in  a  curious  native  dance 
which  I  had  never  seen  before  in  South  America;  they  col- 
lected a  great  heap  of  wood  and  soon  after  supper  had  a 
roaring  bonfire  going;  then  they  formed  a  circle,  with  one 
man  in  the  centre  who  began  to  sing  in  a  high,  strained 
voice,  and  after  each  line  the  whole  chorus  answered  with  a 
wail  that  sounded  something  like  "  oh-tee-oh-tee-ah."  The 
centre  man  bowed  and  hopped  about  on  one  foot  in  a  most 
ridiculous  manner  and  made  frequent  sudden  charges  into 
the  surrounding  company,  and  if  he  succeeded  in  knocking 
one  of  them  down  that  man  took  his  place  in  the  middle  of 
the  ring.  The  whole  performance  looked  very  much  like 
an  imitation  of  a  cock-fight.  Some  of  the  onlookers  had 
rattles  made  of  small  calabashes  full  of  pebbles  stuck  on  a 
short  piece  of  bamboo,  which  they  shook  in  rhythm  with 
the  singing;  they  seemed  perfectly  insatiable  of  this  form 
of  amusement,  and  the  dancing  and  howling  lasted  far  into 
the  night. 

Below  Sao  Feliz  we  found  another  small  launch  towing  a 
batelao,  which  in  the  course  of  a  day  took  us  to  a  camp 
called  Tabajara.  We  had  not  gone  more  than  a  few  miles 
the  next  morning  when  further  progress  was  again  barred 
by  rapids.  After  a  short  walk  we  crossed  a  branch  of  the 
river  in  small  dugouts  and  then  started  on  a  two-mile  por- 
tage through  the  flooded  forest.  Another  launch  was  wait- 
ing below  the  rapids,  but  within  twenty  minutes  after 
weighing  anchor  we  again  heard  the  roar  of  troubled  waters 
ahead  of  us;  the  river  raced  between  high,  rock-strewn 
banks.  In  the  distance  we  could  see  flecks  of  foam  dotting 
the  surface,  while  a  cloud  of  mist  hung  over  the  river;  but 


258  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

from  beyond  the  veil  that  obstructed  our  further  view  came 
the  ominous  roar  of  a  great  cataract,  growing  in  intensity 
as  we  drew  near.  The  landing  was  about  a  hundred  yards 
above  the  brink  of  the  first  fall,  but  the  current  proved  to 
be  too  strong  for  the  launch's  little  engine,  and  we  were  in 
danger  of  being  swept  past;  the  moments  that  followed 
were  exciting,  but  fortunately  we  managed  to  reach  the 
bank.  This  same  thing  had  occurred  but  a  short  time 
before,  but  the  result  had  been  disastrous;  the  boat  was 
swept  over  the  falls,  and,  of  the  thirty-one  men  aboard, 
twenty-seven  were  never  seen  again.  The  portage  around 
these  rapids,  called  Sao  Vicente,  was  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  length  and  led  over  gently  undulating  country, 
all  heavily  forested.  In  many  places  the  bed-rock  had  been 
uncovered  by  the  torrential  rains.  This  consisted  of  fine- 
grained, dark  granite;  usually  there  was  a  shallow  layer 
of  sand  on  the  rock,  with  a  thick  covering  of  rich  black 
mould.  From  the  top  of  a  high  knoll  we  had  a  fairly  good 
view  of  the  falls  and  of  the  rapids  below;  after  leaping  over 
a  twenty-foot  ledge  the  river  rushes  through  a  narrow  rock- 
filled  gorge;  enormous  boulders  tower  out  of  the  channel 
like  so  many  black,  unvanquished  monarchs.  Tongues  of 
spray  leap  to  a  height  of  forty  feet,  and  clouds  of  vapor 
rise  in  a  constant  stream.  With  the  exception  of  the  Salto 
Bello  of  the  Rio  Sacre  and  "tltiarity  Falls  of  the  Papagaio, 
we  had  seen  nothing  to  compare  with  Sao  Vicente  during 
our  entire  journey  across  Brazil. 

That  night  we  reached  the  first  settlement,  a  small  vil- 
lage named  Doze  de  Novembro.  We  arrived  tired  and 
wet,  for  it  had  rained  the  greater  part  of  the  afternoon, 
but  we  congratulated  ourselves  upon  having  performed  a 
remarkable  day's  work. 

The  place  was  overrun  with  ants,  not  the  comparatively 
harmless  carregador  ants,  which  are  content  to  carry  away 
your  clothing  piecemeal  while  you  sleep,  but  with  endless 
armies  of  the  fierce  black  carnivorous  species  that  prey 
upon  every  living  being.  These  ants  are  one  of  the  scourges 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        259 

of  the  tropics;  whether  in  the  fever-stricken  Choco  on  the 
west  coast  of  Colombia,  at  the  base  of  Duida  on  the 
Orinoco,  or  in  the  wilds  of  Matto  Grosso,  the  ravaging 
hordes  seemed  always  the  same.  One  moment  they  hurry 
along  in  solid  formations,  the  next  side-lines  have  been 
thrown  out  in  all  directions,  covering  many  square  yards 
of  ground.  Not  one  leaf  or  crevice  escapes  the  alert  scout- 
ing-parties,  which  ascend  even  to  the  top  of  the  tallest 
tree.  When  a  victim  is  discovered  the  news  in  some  mys- 
terious way  is  flashed  to  the  main  column,  and  battalions 
of  reinforcements  immediately  rush  to  the  encounter,  charg- 
ing the  prey  and  clinging  with  vise-like  mandibles  to  any 
part  of  its  body  that  offers  a  hold.  Usually  the  approach 
of  the  devastating  host  is  preceded  by  a  swarm  of  panic- 
stricken  insects,  crawling,  hopping,  and  flying  in  their  en- 
deavors to  escape  destruction;  large,  hairy  tarantulas  crawl 
to  the  tops  of  bushes  and  leap  from  leaf  to  leaf,  only  to  be 
discovered  and  routed,  until  in  despair  they  spring  to  the 
ground,  which  by  this  time  is  one  surging  mass  of  ants, 
where  they  are  despatched  in  short  order.  I  have  seen 
scorpions  and  centipedes  eight  inches  long  suffer  a  similar 
fate;  no  living  thing  seems  to  escape  the  avalanche  of  de- 
struction. Flocks  of  ant-birds  usually  follow  in  the  wake 
of  the  army,  feeding  upon  the  ants  and  upon  the  insects 
that  have  been  driven  from  their  hiding-places.  One  of  the 
questions  that  naturally  arises  in  this  connection  is  how 
the  callow  young  of  birds  escape  from  the  ants,  as  caged 
birds  are  not  immune  from  their  attacks,  and  dead  or 
wounded  birds  placed  near  the  army's  line  of  march  are 
quickly  discovered,  torn  to  shreds,  and  carried  away. 
While  in  British  Guiana  I  had  been  watching  the  nest  of 
an  ant-wren  containing  two  helpless  young,  placed  in  the 
crotch  of  a  tree  a  few  feet  above  the  ground,  for  several 
days;  one  morning  the  whole  region  was  swarming  with 
ants  and  the  nest  was  empty;  however,  not  long  after,  and 
also  on  subsequent  days,  both  parent  birds  were  seen  con- 
tentedly carrying  food  into  a  thicket  fifty  yards  away.  A 


260  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

casual  search  failed  to  reveal  the  new  nest,  but  to  my  mind 
there  was  no  doubt  that  the  young  birds  had  been  removed 
upon  the  approach  of  danger;  one  of  the  adults  was  marked 
in  a  peculiar  manner,  so  that  there  was  no  mistake  in  the 
identity  of  the  pair.  Doubtless  this  was  an  exceptional 
case,  and  in  the  vast  majority  of  instances  young  birds 
perish  in  common  with  the  other  creatures  which  are  over- 
whelmed by  the  ants. 

On  the  day  following  our  arrival  at  the  little  village  we 
boarded  a  waiting  launch  sent  from  the  Madeira  to  meet 
us — the  Jayme,  she  was  called — and  started  on  the  final 
stretch  down  the  stream;  within  an  hour  we  reached  the 
boundary-line  of  Matto  Grosso  and  entered  the  great  state 
of  Amazonas.  The  Gy-Parana  had  assumed  the  propor- 
tions of  a  mighty  river;  it  is  doubtless  one  of  the  largest,  if 
not  the  longest  affluent  of  the  Madeira,  and  frequently  the 
distance  between  banks  was  not  less  than  half  a  league. 
The  water  was  yellow  and  there  was  little  current;  frequently 
we  ran  into  drifts  of  floating  trees,  branches,  and  patches  of 
grass  that  had  been  washed  out  of  the  flooded  areas.  There 
was  no  opening  in  the  tall,  tropical  forest  which  stretched 
into  the  distance  and  disappeared  in  one  long,  unbroken 
vista  of  deepest  green.  Toward  evening  we  reached  the 
mouth  of  the  Gy-Parana",  and  entered  the  vast,  muddy 
expanse  of  the  Madeira;  we  crossed  to  the  other  side  and 
landed  at  a  small  port  called  Calama,  the  home  of  Senhor 
Asensi,  owner  of  the  rubber-camps  we  .had  passed  on  the 
last  days  of  our  journey  down  the  river.  Senhor  Asensi 
very  courteously  placed  his  comfortable  home  at  our  dis- 
posal and  suggested  that  we  remain  as  his  guests  until  we 
had  in  some  measure  recuperated  from  our  rather  trying 
experiences,  and  we  were  glad  to  accept  his  hospitality. 
Practically  every  member  of  the  party  had  suffered  from 
frequent  and  severe  attacks  of  fever,  although  half  a  gram 
of  quinine  had  been  taken  by  each  one  daily,  and  some  of 
the  camaradas  were  so  ill  that  they  had  to  be  carried  ashore ; 
the  latter  were  sent  to  Manaos  on  the  first  available  steamer 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        261 

for  medical  treatment.  I  was  particularly  eager  to  spend 
some  time  at  Calama,  as  the  locality  appeared  to  offer  un- 
usual opportunities  for  zoological  work.  After  a  few  days 
of  thorough  rest  the  Brazilian  members  of  the  party  started 
up-river  to  Santo  Antonio,  for  a  tour  of  the  Madeira-Ma- 
more  railroad,  while  I  remained  to  investigate  the  fauna 
of  the  region. 

The  country  back  of  Calama  is  high  and  undulating,  so 
that  it  remains  untouched  by  the  water  that  covers  the 
lowlands  during  the  wet  season.  A  small  space  which  had 
been  cleared  around  the  building  was  covered  with  a  fine 
growth  of  grass  and  low  bushes,  and  served  as  pasture  for 
a  few  head  of  cattle;  small  birds,  such  as  flycatchers,  grass- 
finches,  and  tanagers  teemed  in  the  opening,  and  many 
thick-billed  green  parrots  squawked  in  the  tree-tops  at  the 
edge  of  the  forest.  A  short  distance  below  the  landing  there 
was  an  extensive  swamp  and  many  small  brush-covered 
islands;  masses  of  aquatic  plants  floated  in  the  quiet,  open 
pools,  conspicuous  among  which  was  the  beautiful  Victoria 
regia,  with  leaves  four  feet  in  diameter.  In  the  dense,  tan- 
gled vegetation  that  grew  out  of  the  black  depths  of  the 
murky  swamp-water  we  found  flocks  of  hoatzins,  or  lizard- 
birds,  curious  archaic  creatures  which  retain  some  of  the 
characteristics  of  their  reptilian  ancestors;  they  are  about 
the  size  of  a  pheasant,  of  an  olive  color  above  and  yellow- 
ish below;  a  high  crest  crowns  the  head,  and  they  possess 
only  a  limited  power  of  flight.  It  was  the  height  of  the 
nesting-season,  and  many  of  the  fragile  platforms  of  sticks 
contained  two  or  three  yellowish  eggs>  heavily  spotted 
with  reddish-brown;  the  wings  of  the  young  are  provided 
with  long,  sharp  claws  which  enable  them  to  climb  about 
over  the  branches  like  lizards;  hence  their  name. 

All  travelling  through  the  swamp  had  to  be  done  in  a 
canoe;  and  pushing  the  dugout  through  the  almost  solid 
mass  of  branches  and  creepers  was  a  difficult  task.  Every 
twig  seemed  to  swarm  with  small  red  ants,  called  fire-ants, 
on  account  of  the  intense  burning  sensation  produced  by 


262  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

their  bites,  and  they  were  constantly  dropping  upon  us  in 
scores.  Several  times  we  blundered  into  maribundi  nests, 
and  in  each  instance  the  outraged  wasps  promptly  retali- 
ated. Large  iguanas  jumped  out  of  the  trees  into  the  water 
with  a  loud  splash  as  we  passed  underneath,  and  troops  of 
woolly  monkeys  deserted  the  wild  cashew-trees  in  which 
they  fed  and  beat  a  hasty  retreat.  The  swamp  was  full 
of  life,  but  we  rarely  recovered  anything  we  shot;  the  cay- 
mans and  piranhas  with  which  the  water  was  infested  usu- 
ally snapped  up  our  specimens  before  we  could  reach  them. 
At  night  we  set  throw-lines  and  caught  the  great  pacu,  a 
fish  of  the  piranha  family;  but  unlike  its  bloodthirsty  rela- 
tive it  prefers  a  vegetable  diet.  A  pirarucu,  six  feet  long 
and  weighing  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  was  also  taken ; 
this  is  the  largest  fish  that  inhabits  Amazonian  waters;  the 
scales  are  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter  and  of  a  silvery 
color,  those  of  the  latter  half  of  the  body  being  margined 
with  deep  scarlet.  It  is  delicious,  either  fresh  or  salted. 

The  forest  back  of  Calama  contained  about  as  much 
game  as  is  ever  found  in  one  spot  in  South  America.  There 
were  deer,  agoutis,  and  peccaries,  but  it  was  impossible  to 
penetrate  far  into  the  interior  on  account  of  the  Parintintin 
Indians,  who  make  this  region  their  stronghold.  These 
Indians  have  always  maintained  a  hostile  attitude  toward 
the  settlers.  An  attack  was  made  on  Calama  one  day  at 
noon  just  as  luncheon  was  being  served;  from  out  of  the 
dead  silence  of  midday  there  suddenly  came  a  shower  of 
arrows;  this  was  promptly  answered  by  rifle-shots  from 
the  house,  and  the  Indians  immediately  fled.  Thirty  bam- 
boo arrows  were  gathered  up,  many  of  them  five  feet  tall, 
with  barbs  on  each  side  of  the  head;  some  of  the  shafts 
were  wrapped  with  hair  and  skin  taken  from  the  victims 
of  previous  raids. 

The  Parintintins  are  of  medium  stature  and  well  built; 
they  are  frequently  at  war  with  their  near  neighbors,  the 
Mundrucus;  when  hostilities  are  in  progress,  which  is  nearly 
always,  the  front  of  the  head  is  shaven,  leaving  only  a  round 


THE  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIO  GY-PARANA        263 

spot  of  short  hair  no  larger  than  a  silver  half-dollar  in  the 
centre;  the  hair  on  the  back  of  the  head  remains  long. 

The  Mundrucus  have  the  curious  custom  of  preserving 
the  heads  of  the  Parintintins  slain  in  battle;  one  of  these  I 
subsequently  saw,  prepared  somewhat  in  the  same  manner 
as  those  formerly  so  highly  prized  by  the  head-hunters  of 
Ecuador.  Apparently  the  head  had  been  smoked,  and  the 
eyes  had  been  replaced  with  balls  of  pitch;  it  was  a  weird 
trophy,  suggestive  of  wild  orgies  and  cannibalistic  rites 
performed  in  the  depths  of  the  jungle  by  the  light  of  flick- 
ering pitch-torches,  and  to  the  music  of  wailing  reeds  and 
deep-voiced  tom-toms. 

Captain  Amilcar  reached  Calama  about  a  week  after  our 
arrival.  He  had  suffered  a  second  accident,  in  which  his 
canoe,  all  his  personal  effects,  the  instruments,  and  practi- 
cally all  of  his  scientific  data  had  been  lost.  These  inci- 
dents emphasize  the  uncertainty  of  travel  and  exploration 
on  the  great  South  American  waterways,  and  the  dangers 
to  which  every  one  is  constantly  subjected  who  ventures 
beyond  the  beaten  paths  of  steamships  and  tourists' 
routes. 

On  April  7  the  Fortaleza,  a  good-sized  steamer  plying  be- 
tween Manaos  and  Santo  Antonio,  called  at  Calama  on  her 
down-stream  journey,  and  we  embarked  for  the  last  stage 
of  our  journey.  We  made  excellent  time,  stopping  only  at 
long  intervals  for  the  purpose  of  taking  aboard  Brazil  nuts. 
On  the  9th  of  April  we  entered  the  Amazon,  and  the  next 
morning  found  us  steaming  up  the  Rio  Negro,  with  Manaos 
visible  in  the  distance.  It  had  been  fifty-two  days  since 
the  division  of  the  expedition  at  the  River  of  Doubt. 

Upon  reaching  Manaos  we  found  that  as  yet  no  word 
had  been  received  from  Colonel  Roosevelt  and  his  party, 
who  were  supposedly  still  on  the  Rio  da  Duvida.  A  steamer, 
provided  with  comforts  which  would  indeed  be  welcome  to 
the  explorers  after  their  long,  arduous  voyage  in  canoes, 
had  been  sent  up  the  river;  with  each  passing  day  the  ex- 
citement grew  more  intense  in  Manaos,  and  many  conjee- 


264  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

tures  were  made  as  to  the  probable  date  of  the  return  of 
that  expedition. 

Before  embarking  on  the  unknown  river  Colonel  Roose- 
velt had  requested  me  to  wait  for  him  should  I  reach  Ma- 
naos  first,  and  in  the  event  of  his  arriving  in  advance  of 
our  party  he  would  await  our  return.  I  therefore  spent  a 
pleasant  week  in  the  city,  and  was  treated  with  the  utmost 
courtesy  by  the  governor  and  the  inhabitants. 

I  had  become  acquainted  with  a  Senhor  Ramos,  who  in- 
vited me  to  visit  a  ranch  he  was  opening  some  distance  up 
the  Solimoes,  so  I  accompanied  him,  hoping  to  add  new 
treasures  to  the  large  collections  we  had  brought  from  the 
Gy-Parand  and  the  Madeira.  After  spending  a  profitable 
week  at  this  fazenda  we  repaired  to  another  locality  on  a 
different  branch  of  the  river. 

The  latter  region  proved  fully  as  interesting  as  the  first, 
but  scarcely  had  we  become  well  established  in  our  new 
surroundings  than  we  were  awakened  one  morning  about 
one  o'clock  by  the  sharp  blasts  of  a  siren  from  the  river 
below.  We  reached  the  water's  edge  in  a  few  moments, 
and  there  found  a  large  steam-launch  resting  at  anchor, 
the  captain  of  which  brought  the  good  news  that  the  long- 
absent  expedition  had  arrived  at  Manaos.  Half  an  hour 
later  we  were  aboard,  steaming  at  full  speed  down  the 
river,  arriving  about  seven  o'clock  in  the  city. 

The  story  of  Colonel  Roosevelt's  experiences  on  the  un- 
explored river  is  well  known.  Owing  to  illness  during  the 
many  weeks'  struggle  against  all  but  insurmountable  diffi- 
culties, he  had  wasted  to  a  mere  shadow  of  his  former  self; 
but  his  unbounded  enthusiasm  remained  undiminished. 

Shortly  after  noon  on  May  1  we  boarded  the  S.  S.  Dun- 
stan,  on  which  we  proceeded  down  the  Amazon  to  Para", 
and  at  that  city  transferred  to  the  Aiden  for  the  long,  un- 
eventful voyage  home. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

DOWN  THE  COAST  OF  PERU  — LAKE  TITICACA  AND 

LA  PAZ  — THROUGH  THE  ANCIENT  INC  AN 

EMPIRE  TO  COCHABAMBA 

THE  coast  of  Peru  looked  decidedly  uninviting  as  day 
after  day  the  S.  S.  Palena  of  the  Chilean  Line  nosed  her 
way  southward  through  the  placid  water  of  the  Pacific. 
The  high,  rocky  shore  stretched  on  interminably,  it  seemed; 
no  graceful  palm  or  speck  of  green  of  any  kind  gladdened 
the  eye;  there  were  only  the  barren  cliffs,  against  which  the 
swell  dashed  itself  into  snowy  spray  and,  above  them, 
slopes  of  hot  brown  sand. 

This  was  in  sharp  contrast  with  the  low  Ecuadorian 
shore-line;  that  was  bad  enough,  with  its  dense,  dark  jungles 
growing  to  the  water's  very  edge,  its  overhanging  masses 
of  black  clouds,  and  its  breathless  heat  and  silence  that 
seemed  to  exude  all  the  fatal  maladies  of  a  tropical  clime. 
Nevertheless,  there  was  a  suggestion  of  life  of  some  sort — 
inhospitable  though  it  might  be.  It  was  not  as  if  an  out- 
raged divinity  had  seared  the  land  with  withering  breaths 
of  hate,  aiinihilating  everything  that  possessed  or  gave 
promise  of  life,  and  leaving  only  the  scorched  desert  as  a 
fearsome  reminder  of  celestial  vengeance.  But  if  the  land 
appeared  forsaken,  the  ocean  teemed  with  life.  Flocks  of 
gulls  always  remained  in  the  vicinity  of  the  ship,  and  oc- 
casionally we  saw  petrels,  shearwaters,  and  albatrosses; 
whales  were  not  particularly  plentiful,  but  porpoises  ap- 
peared practically  every  day.  Toward  the  end  of  the 
voyage  seals  also  grew  abundant. 

There  are  numbers  of  ports  along  the  Peruvian  coast  and 
the  Palena  stopped  at  many  of  them.  The  enormous  swell 
coming  from  the  south  and  scarcely  felt  at  sea  spends  its 
violence  along  the  shore,  making  landing  very  difficult,  and 

265 


266  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

often  impossible.  Steamships  dare  not  approach  close  to 
the  jutting  rocks.  All  freight  is  unloaded  into  lighters; 
passengers  are  lowered  in  a  chair  operated  by  a  steam-winch 
and  dumped  into  the  huge,  flat-bottomed  freight-carriers, 
together  with  their  belongings.  This  always  causes  a  good 
deal  of  excitement  and  not  infrequently  slight  injuries  are 
inflicted,  as  the  boats  are  low  one  instant  and  come  racing 
up  the  next  on  the  top  of  a  mountainous  swell. 

At  noon  on  the  eighth  day  out  from  Panama  we  reached 
Paita.  The  town  lies  on  the  beach  and  just  below  the  edge 
of  a  high  sandy  plateau.  This  is  the  centre  of  Peru's  oil- 
fields. Tanks  were  visible  in  the  country  near  the  town, 
and  a  thin  film  covered  the  water  for  several  miles  off-shore. 

Salavery  is  a  small  town  with  flat,  square  board  houses. 
In  back  of  it  rise  high  escarpments  of  rock  and  sand.  It 
never  rains,  so  water  is  brought  from  a  little  valley  far  dis- 
tant in  the  foot-hills.  A  narrow-gauge  railroad  connects 
the  valley  with  the  port,  and  sugar  is  brought  out  for 
export. 

It  seems  as  if  most  of  the  coastal  towns  are  merely  ports 
or  outlets  for  products  from  the  interior.  There  are  many 
fertile  little  spots  between  the  ridges  branching  off  from 
the  main  range;  they  are  well  watered  by  melting  snow  on 
the  lofty  summits,  and  a  great  variety  of  fruit,  vegetables, 
cotton,  and  cane  are  grown. 

After  ten  days  the  ship  anchored  off  Callao;  it  is  but  a 
thirty  minutes'  train  ride  from  this  port  to  Lima.  The 
route  is  flat  and  runs  through  corn,  banana,  and  yucca 
fields  and  truck-gardens.  We  visited  the  creditable  zoo 
and  then  accepted  an  invitation  to  inspect  the  medical  col- 
lege. The  latter  is  surprisingly  well  equipped  and  had  an 
attendance  of  over  eight  hundred  students.  The  great 
cathedral  next  occupied  our  attention;  the  massive  temple 
was  in  itself  most  interesting,  but  curiosity  led  me  to  spend 
the  most  of  our  limited  time  viewing  the  remains  of  Pizarro, 
which  are  exhibited  in  a  glass-panelled  marble  casket. 
An  inscription  informs  the  viewers  that  the  conquistador 


DOWN  THE  COAST  OF  PERU  267 

founded  Lima  in  1535;  he  died  June  26,  1541,  and  was 
buried  under  the  cathedral;  in  1891  the  bones  were  ex- 
humed and  placed  in  their  present  resting-place.  If  one 
may  believe  the  statements  of  historians,  a  monument  built 
of  the  skeletons  of  his  helpless  victims  would  be  a  far  more 
suitable  memorial  to  the  bloodthirsty  outlaw  than  the 
place  of  worship  which  his  remains  of  necessity  must  defile. 

We  had  heard  a  great  deal  about  the  difficulty  of  land- 
ing at  Mollendo.  At  times  the  rollers  from  the  south  are 
so  immense  that  ships  do  not  attempt  an  anchorage,  but 
continue  the  voyage  down  to  Arica.  We  were  relieved  to 
find  the  sea  perfectly  smooth  upon  our  arrival.  The  town 
differed  from  Paita  and  Salavery  only  in  that  it  was  some- 
what larger.  We  found  it  possible  to  purchase  through 
tickets  to  La  Paz,  and  noon  saw  us  on  our  way.  The  rail- 
road started  up  the  barren  slope  almost  immediately;  occa- 
sionally the  incline  was  very  gentle — so  gentle,  hi  fact, 
that  the  country  lay  like  a  great  brown  desert  on  each  side 
of  the  track.  These  stretches  were  covered  with  crescent- 
shaped  sand-dunes,  some  of  them  fifty  feet  high  and  several 
hundred  feet  from  tip  to  tip.  They  creep  slowly  forward 
as  the  wind  blows  the  sand  up  their  rear  slope  to  the  crest, 
when  it  topples  over  into  the  centre  of  the  half-moon. 

At  times  the  grade  was  very  steep.  The  deep  blue  Pa- 
cific was  visible  several  hours,  sometimes  on  our  right  and 
then  on  our  left,  as  the  train  wound  up  the  mountainside, 
but  always  receding  until  it  resembled  a  vast  mist-en- 
shrouded amethyst  losing  itself  in  the  distance. 

Alkali-dust  entered  the  .coaches  in  clouds  and  threatened 
to  suffocate  the  passengers,  but  the  impressiveness  of  the 
scenery  more  than  compensated  them  for  this  annoyance. 

Not  far  from  Arequipa  a  deep  gorge  appeared  with  a 
stream  threading  its  way  through  the  bottom.  Its  banks 
were  covered  with  trees  and  green  vegetation — a  veritable 
oasis  amid  the  desert  that  hemmed  it  in  on  both  sides. 
The  Indians  who  now  came  to  the  car-windows  when  the 
train  stopped  to  get  up  steam  brought  grapes,  figs,  oranges, 


268  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

guavas,  and  empanadas,  or  meat  pies  smelling  strongly  of 
onions.  They  were  an  unkempt,  wild-looking  lot  and  had 
apparently  come  from  the  green  vale  below.  At  seven 
o'clock  we  were  up  seven  thousand  feet,  having  ascended 
to  that  height  from  sea-level  in  six  hours,  and  drew  in  at 
the  station  of  Arequipa. 

There  was  no  train  for  Puno  the  following  day,  so  ample 
time  was  at  our  disposal  in  which  to  see  the  city  and  its 
immediate  environs. 

We  found  Arequipa  to  be  a  most  delightful  place.  It 
was  cool  enough  to  permit  the  wearing  of  top-coats  with 
comfort.  The  people  were  well  dressed  and  healthy  ap- 
pearing. Electric  trains  provided  adequate  means  of  jour- 
neying from  one  part  of  the  city  to  another,  and  if  one  pre- 
ferred a  carriage  it  also  was  obtainable.  Beautiful  plazas, 
ancient  churches,  and  wooden  buildings  are  distributed  pro- 
miscuously among  the  rabble  of  low  adobe  or  stone  huts 
which  predominate,  and  herds  of  llamas  thread  their  way 
through  the  stone-paved  streets.  The  atmosphere  is  so 
clear  the  year  around  that  a  spot  near  the  city  has  been 
chosen  for  the  site  of  the  Harvard  Observatory.  One  has  a 
good  view  of  the  great  snow-capped  Mount  Misti  from 
every  part  of  the  city;  the  peak  is  conical  in  shape  and 
nineteen  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height. 

Continuing  the  trip  from  Arequipa,  the  first  stage  of  the 
route  passes  over  barren,  gently  rolling  country.  Small 
irrigated  plots  are  not  uncommon  where  some  rivulet 
trickles  down  from  the  upper  world  of  snow  and  ice;  they 
support  a  limited  population  of  Indians,  which  must  lead  a 
forlorn  and  miserable  life  among  their  desolate  surround- 
ings. Farther  on,  the  slopes  assumed  a  friendlier  appear- 
ance; sparse  vegetation  in  patches  appeared  and  grew 
denser  toward  the  snow-line,  where  there  was  naturally 
more  moisture.  Life  followed  closely  in  the  wake  of  the 
grass  and  bush  covered  areas.  Native  hovels  became  more 
numerous,  and  flocks  of  llamas,  sheep,  and  goats,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  horses  and  cattle;  fed  on  the  herbage. 


Country  around  Arequipa,  showing  Mount  Misti. 


The  expedition  en  route  via  hand-car,  Changollo  to  Arce. 


DOWN  THE  COAST  OF  PERU  269 

The  top  of  the  divide  is  fourteen  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  above  sea-level.  As  we  approached  it  numbers  of 
passengers  became  violently  ill  of  soroche,  or  mountain- 
sickness.  They  acted  very  much  like  people  aboard  a 
steamship  on  a  stormy  voyage,  although  this  illness  seemed 
far  worse  than  any  seasickness  I  had  ever  seen.  Several  of 
the  stricken  ones  rolled  about  on  the  floor  and  tried  to  tear 
off  their  clothing;  a  feeling  of  suffocation  accompanies  the 
nausea,  and  occasionally  some  one  dies. 

Beyond  the  ridge  the  country  is  level  or  gently  rolling 
and  there  are  numerous  clear  blue  lakes — some  of  consid- 
erable size.  Immense  flocks  of  doves  make  this  upland 
region  their  home,  and  ducks,  gulls,  and  herons  teemed 
about  the  water. 

Just  after  dark  we  reached  Puno,  and  a  few  minutes  later 
embarked  on  the  Coya  for  the  trip  across  Lake  Titicaca. 
The  night  was  so  cold  and  stormy  that  it  was  impossible  to 
spend  much  time  on  the  upper  deck,  and  the  cabins  were 
so  crowded  that  sleeping  in  comfort  was  impossible.  The 
ship  was  small  and  overcrowded  with  people  of  many  colors 
and  nationalities;  most  of  them  spent  the  night  in  the  din- 
ing-saloon  drinking  and  gaming. 

Dawn  came  at  last,  and  shortly  afterward  the  Coya 
slowly  wended  her  way  through  the  reed-grown  marshes 
bordering  the  lake  and  tied  up  at  the  pier  at  Guaqui,  on 
the  Bolivian  side.  Indians  in  reed  rafts  with  sails  made 
of  rushes  dashed  past  and  disappeared  among  the  cattails, 
and  water-fowl  of  several  species — mostly  ducks,  coots,  and 
grebes — paddled  out  into  the  ruffled  water  left  in  the  wake 
of  the  boat. 

It  is  unfortunate  that  this  passage  of  the  lake  is  made 
at  night.  Nearly  every  one  visiting  the  vast  body  of 
water  for  the  first  time  is  eager  to  see  as  much  of  it  as  pos- 
sible, both  on  account  of  its  being  the  highest  great  lake  in 
the  world  (twelve  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  sea- 
level)  and  by  reason  of  its  associations  with  the  nation  of 
the  Incas. 


270  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Guaqui  is  a  garrison  town.  There  were  numerous  sol- 
diers in  evidence  on  the  streets,  and  a  troop  of  lancers, 
under  the  command  of  a  German  officer,  were  giving  a 
skilful  display  of  their  prowess  on  the  lake  front.  Their 
mounts  were  not  much  to  look  at  and  the  uniforms  of  the 
men  were  rather  shabby,  but  both  were  well  drilled. 

The  train  for  La  Paz  left  at  noon.  It  moved  at  a  good 
rate  of  speed  across  the  high,  level  upland.  The  scenery  is 
impressive.  We  were  always  in  sight  of  snow-covered 
peaks,  although  there  was  little  snow  on  the  plateau  itself. 
Indian  huts  built  of  stone,  some  very  ancient,  are  scattered 
about  abundantly,  but  it  requires  some  experience  in  locat- 
ing them  before  they  can  be  readily  distinguished  from 
then-  immediate  surroundings.  There  were  numerous  fields 
of  wheat  and  oats,  and  llamas  without  number  nibbled 
the  scant  vegetation  on  the  slope.  In  a  few  isolated  spots 
small  herds  of  cattle,  horses,  and  pigs  were  visible.  Indians 
came  to  the  coach-windows  to  sell  fruits  when  the  train 
stopped;  they  were  doubtless  brought  from  the  deep,  shel- 
tered fissures  that  have  been  cut  into  the  range  by  snow- 
water from  high  peaks. 

Within  a  short  time  we  had  reached  the  ruins  of  an  enor- 
mous city  called  Tiahuanaco,  which  is  said  to  date  back 
many  centuries  before  the  Incan  era.  When  discovered  it 
was  buried  in  the  sand  level  with  the  surface  of  the  pla- 
teau, but  archaeologists  have  excavated  many  of  the  larger 
buildings  and  brought  to  light  ancient  treasures  of  rare 
beauty.  Later,  in  La  Paz,  we  met  a  man  named  Poznaski 
who  had  done  a  great  deal  of  work  in  this  region.  He  had 
a  remarkable  collection  of  hundreds  of  skulls,  pieces  of  pot- 
tery, gold  ornaments,  and  well-preserved  cloth.  Among 
the  ceramics  was  a  "death's  head"  of  exquisite  work- 
manship, life  size,  and  painted  in  gorgeous  colors.  He 
considered  it  the  finest  bit  of  pottery  ever  discovered  in 
Bolivia  and  stated  that  a  North  American  museum  was 
negotiating  for  its  purchase  at  a  price  that  ran  into  five 
figures.  This,  however,  did  not  seem  probable.  As  we 


DOWN  THE  COAST  OF  PERU  271 

neared  La  Paz,  the  great  mountains  of  Illimani,  Murarata, 
and  Huana  Potosi  loomed  constantly  more  lofty  and  for- 
bidding before  us.  They  are  the  patriarchs  of  the  Bolivian 
Andes,  and  are  twenty-two  thousand  five  hundred  and 
eighty-one,  twenty-one  thousand,  and  twenty  thousand 
two  hundred  and  eighty-nine  feet  high  respectively.  The 
summits  of  all  three  have  been  reached  by  venturesome 
exploration-parties,  but  the  task  of  climbing  the  steep, 
slippery  slopes  perpetually  covered  with  deep  snow  and 
swept  by  frigid  gales  is  a  trying  one  that  is  not  often  at- 
tempted. Huana  Potosi,  the  more  distant  of  the  group 
has  a  flat  top,  contrasting  conspicuously  with  the  sharp, 
pointed  summits  of  the  other  two.  The  Indians  tell  a  legend 
that  explains  this  peculiar  formation.  In  the  days  of  long 
ago,  when  the  world  was  young,  vapors  enveloped  all  the 
earth;  suddenly  the  sun-god  appeared  and,  beaming  down 
from  heaven,  caused  the  mists  to  become  dissipated  and 
vanish.  Illimani  awoke  to  life  and  from  his  dizzy  height 
beheld  the  queenly  Huana  Potosi  smiling  up  at  him.  At 
the  same  time,  however,  Murarata  emerged  from  the  clouds 
and  beholding  the  beautiful  Huana  Potosi  fell  violently 
in  love  with  her.  Illimani  became  insanely  jealous  and 
in  a  blind  fury  hurled  forth  fire,  smoke,  and  stones  of  great 
size  at  his  rival's  head;  the  latter  promptly  replied  in 
kind  and  fought  valiantly.  For  days  the  earth  quaked  and 
trembled  with  the  thunderous  roar  of  the  death-struggle, 
while  heavy  clouds  covered  the  terrifying  spectacle  with 
a  mantle  of  darkness.  After  a  seemingly  endless  time  the 
combat  stopped;  daylight  returned,  revealing  an  appalling 
state  of  affairs.  Finding  it  impossible  to  vanquish  the  rival 
suitor,  Illimani  had  beheaded  his  fair  lady-love  to  prevent 
her  from  falling  into  the  other's  hands.  The  many  streams 
of  water  rushing  down  the  steep  sides  of  Illimani  are  but 
the  tears  of  grief  and  remorse  over  his  hasty  action;  thus  he 
is  doomed  to  mourn  and  weep  until  the  end  of  time.  The 
legend  has  doubtless  been  handed  down  through  many  gen- 
erations and  obviously  refers  to  one  of  the  many  volcanic 


272  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

disturbances  that  must  have  occurred  when  the  Andes  were 
young. 

Shortly  before  sundown  we  came  suddenly  to  the  brink 
of  a  crater-like  rent  in  the  plateau  and,  on  the  bottom  of 
the  huge  gash,  thirteen  hundred  feet  below,  we  could  see 
the  compactly  built  mass  of  edifices  and  green  gardens  of 
La  Paz.  The  situation  of  the  city  is  unique.  One  has  no 
intimation  of  its  nearness  while  speeding  over  the  high,  cold 
piano  alto  (which  has  an  elevation  of  thirteen  thousand 
three  hundred  feet)  until  the  very  edge  of  the  fissure  is 
reached.  The  sides  are  precipitous,  but  numerous  foot- 
paths make  their  way  up  or  down  the  steep  declivity.  The 
far  slopes  of  the  Andes  are  checkered  with  cultivated  fields; 
a  roaring  stream,  the  Choqueyapu,  tears  its  way  through 
the  floor  of  the  amphitheatre,  and  the  series  of  snow-cov- 
ered summits  form  a  magnificent  background  for  the  un- 
usual spectacle. 

The  steam-locomotive  was  taken  off  and  an  electric  one 
substituted,  and  then  the  train  slowly  backed  down  along 
the  face  of  the  incline  to  the  station  below. 

The  impression  of  La  Paz,  gained  from  the  first  brief 
view  above,  is  soon  dispersed  upon  nearer  and  more  inti- 
mate acquaintance.  The  streets  are  narrow,  crooked, 
paved  with  small  stones  from  the  river-bed,  and  very  steep. 
Walking  any  length  of  time  entails  a  great  amount  of  ex- 
ertion on  account  of  the  high  altitude;  fortunately,  carriages 
are  not  lacking,  and  a  tramway  also  provides  a  ready  means 
of  locomotion,  or  I  am  afraid  few  travellers  would  ever  see 
very  much  of  the  inner  life  of  the  city.  With  the  exception 
of  a  few  churches  and  government  buildings  that  are  worthy 
of  note  on  account  of  their  size  and  architecture,  the  build- 
ings are  low  and  of  a  primitive  type,  whitewashed  and  cov- 
ered with  tiles  or  thatched. 

Ordinarily  the  streets  are  all  but  deserted,  but  on  Sun- 
days and  fete-days  a  motley  crowd  throngs  the  winding 
thoroughfares.  There  are  full-blooded  Indians  of  the  Ay- 
mard,  race,  clothed  in  picturesque  though  not  beautiful  gar- 


DOWN  THE  COAST  OF  PERU  273 

ments;  half-breeds  or  Cholos  are  far  more  gayly  clad  in 
very  full  skirts  and  shawls  of  bright  colors,  round,  flat- 
brimmed  straw  or  felt  hats,  and  imported  shoes  with  high 
heels  and  tops  that  reach  almost  to  the  knees;  the  number 
of  townspeople,  Creoles  and  foreigners,  seems  negligible 
compared  to  the  throngs  of  Indians  and  Cholos;  in  fact, 
some  authorities  state  that  there  are  one  hundred  of  the 
latter  to  one  of  the  former.  On  market-days  long  lines  of 
llamas,  burros,  and  mules  thread  their  way  through  the 
crowded  streets,  bearing  fire-wood,  charcoal,  meat,  and  vege- 
tables for  the  sustenance  of  the  city. 

About  the  most  interesting  place  in  La  Paz  to  us,  and 
at  the  same  time  the  most  repellent,  was  the  Museo  Na- 
cional.  It  contained  several  dark,  cavernous  rooms  crowded 
with  a  wealth  of  specimens,  mostly  in  the  form  of  ceramics, 
minerals,  and  mummies.  They  were  piled  promiscuously 
everywhere  in  the  most  slovenly  and  disgusting  manner. 
Naturally,  this  treatment  did  not  tend  toward  their  pres- 
ervation; rats  had  undermined  the  mounds  of  human  re- 
mains, gnawed  holes  into  the  bodies,  and  made  their  nests 
in  the  interior;  pottery  had  crashed  from  unstable  shelves, 
and  bird  and  mammal  skins  were  badly  moth-eaten.  I 
trust  that  a  more  efficient  management  may  rescue  these 
treasures. 

The  plazas,  of  which  there  are  four  or  five,  are  small  and 
not  particularly  attractive.  The  cold  climate  prevents 
the  growing  of  tropical  decorative  plants  that  are  always 
so  conspicuous  in  cities  and  towns  of  the  lower  country. 
The  gente  decente,  or  upper  class,  meet  in  the  Plaza  de 
Armas  on  Sundays  for  a  chat  with  friends,  a  stroll  to  ex- 
hibit their  finery,  and  to  listen  to  the  music. 

The  Aymara's  who  inhabit  the  entire  highlands  are  of  a 
treacherous  disposition  and  have  several  times  organized 
their  forces  preparatory  to  making  war  on  the  Bolivians. 
As  their  number  is  very  great  they  are  a  menace  that  is 
very  real  and  serious.  When  an  uprising  is  threatened, 
the  chiefs  are  arrested  and  punished,  and  then  the  rebellion 


274  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

dies  down  for  want  of  leaders.  These  Indians  still  retain 
the  despenadora,  or  death-doctor,  in  the  more  remote  and 
inaccessible  regions.  This  person  is  a  woman  who  pos- 
sesses the  knack  of  doing  away  with  the  aged  and  infirm  of 
her  district,  and  the  office  is  handed  down  from  mother 
to  daughter.  When  any  one  within  her  jurisdiction  be- 
comes too  old  to  work,  or  is  ill  with  a  malady  thought  to  be 
incurable,  the  despenadora  is  called  in;  she  straddles  the 
poor  unfortunate  and  ends  his  existence  by  deftly  dislocat- 
ing the  vertebrae  of  the  neck.  Whenever  government  offi- 
cials learn  of  the  operation  of  one  of  these  women,  they  are 
taken  into  custody  and  punished. 

One  of  the  favorite  sports  of  the  Pacenos  is  to  hunt  wild 
cattle  in  the  high  valleys  between  the  peaks.  Numerous 
herds  are  still  in  existence  and  it  is  said  that  they  are  of 
a  savage  disposition  and  furnish  good  sport.  I  met  an 
American  who  had  been  thrown  from  his  horse  and  gored 
by  a  wild  bull  that  charged  him  from  a  distance  of  several 
hundred  yards. 

The  country  between  La  Paz  and  Oruro  is  very  similar 
to  that  we  had  crossed  coming  from  Guaqui.  There  are 
the  same  vistas  of  barren  plains,  green  fields,  llamas,  and 
asses  on  the  slopes,  and  dazzling  snow-fields  in  the  back- 
ground. The  plateau  is  strewn  with  marine  fossils,  mostly 
trilobites,  reminders  of  the  days  when  Lake  Titicaca  was 
many  times  its  present  size.  We  covered  the  one  hundred 
and  twenty-seven  miles  to  Oruro  in  six  hours,  and  spent 
the  night  there.  This  city  owes  its  existence  to  the  many 
mines  located  near  by — some  within  the  city's  limits — and 
to  the  wealth  they  yield  in  tin,  silver,  and  other  metals. 
Next  morning  the  journey  was  continued  toward  Cocha- 
bamba.  Shortly  before  noon  the  level  country  was  left 
behind  and  we  started  down  the  eastern  slope  of  a  ridge 
that  leads  into  the  lower  country.  This  part  of  the  road- 
bed is  new;  the  greater  part  of  it  is  laid  on  a  narrow  shelf 
of  rock  carved  and  blasted  out  of  the  mountainside.  Per- 
pendicular walls  of  granite  tower  above  to  a  height  of  hun- 


DOWN  THE  COAST  OF  PERU  275 

dreds  of  feet  on  one  side;  in  places  the  top  of  the  huge 
masses  seems  to  hang  over  the  track  in  a  tottering  position 
and  one  expects  the  rumble  of  the  train  to  set  it  in  motion 
and  bring  an  avalanche  of  destruction  down  upon  one's 
head. 

A  small  stream  flows  through  the  bottom  of  the  gorge. 
During  the  greater  part  of  the  year  it  is  a  mere  rivulet  that 
trickles  harmlessly  over  the  shallow,  pebbly  bottom  of  its 
course;  but  when  the  torrential  rains  of  winter  fall  it  rises 
rapidly  to  the  proportions  of  a  mighty  river  and  sweeps 
away  sections  of  the  railroad.  Long  rows  of  breakwater 
have  been  placed  alongside  the  base  of  the  road-bed  to  pro- 
tect it  from  the  ravages  of  the  flood;  they  consist  of  loaf- 
shaped  piles  of  stone  bound  together  with  wire  netting; 
these  would  be  effective  against  the  water  alone,  but  they 
cannot  resist  the  demolishing  force  of  the  huge  boulders 
that  are  rolled  down  from  the  mountains  by  the  strong 
current. 

A  number  of  breaks  in  the  line  had  been  made  by  land- 
slides just  before  our  visit,  so  the  train  could  not  proceed 
beyond  Changollo,  a  settlement  of  half  a  dozen  Quechua 
Indian  huts  and  a  good-sized  station,  the  elevation  of  which 
is  ten  thousand  feet.  We  were  met  by  a  representative  of 
the  railway  company  and  given  quarters  in  the  station 
buildings;  the  other  passengers  immediately  engaged  mules 
and  llamas  and  started  for  Cochabamba.  The  reason  for 
our  delay  was  that  we  had  just  received  a  shipment  of  am- 
munition and  supplies  from  New  York,  and  some  time 
would  be  required  to  repack  them  in  parcels  of  equal  weight 
suitable  for  transportation  by  pack-train. 

Changollo  was  headquarters  for  the  construction-gangs 
working  on  the  line.  About  half  a  dozen  Englishmen  and 
Scotchmen  were  in  charge  of  the  work,  and  they  showed 
us  every  possible  courtesy  and  attention  during  our  brief 
stay  there.  I  regret  constantly  that  it  is  not  possible  to 
give  detailed  credit  to  all  the  people,  South  Americans  and 
foreigners  alike,  who  treated  us  with  such  unfailing  cour- 


276  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

tesy  throughout  our  years  of  travel  in  the  southern  conti- 
nent, and  to  whose  assistance  we  are  so  heavily  indebted 
for  the  success  that  attended  our  efforts;  but  to  do  so 
would  fill  the  pages  of  a  volume  several  times  the  size  of 
this  one  without  leaving  space  for  my  narrative. 

All  of  the  railroad  men  boarded  with  an  Englishman  named 
Cole  and  his  wife.  The  Coles  were  a  middle-aged  couple 
who  had  spent  the  greater  part  of  their  lives  together  trav- 
elling around  the  world.  Among  other  places,  they  had 
lived  in  India  and  in  Africa.  They  had  a  score  of  parrots, 
cockatoos,  and  dogs  that  accompanied  them  in  all  their 
wanderings;  caring  for  this  miniature  menagerie  must  have 
been  a  troublesome  job  while  moving  from  place  to  place, 
but  they  took  the  place  of  children  and  were  looked  after 
just  as  tenderly.  Cole  claimed  that  he  was  the  only  man 
on  earth  who  had  been  bitten  by  a  black  mamba — a  species 
of  giant  cobra — and  lived  to  tell  the  tale.  He  was  follow- 
ing a  path  through  the  silent  jungle  one  day  at  dusk  when 
a  black  form  lunged  down  upon  him  from  some  branches 
that  overhung  the  trail;  at  the  same  time  he  felt  a  dull, 
throbbing  pain  in  his  left  arm,  and  realized  what  had  oc- 
curred. His  first  impulse  was  to  flee  in  terror;  however, 
better  judgment  prevailed  and  he  opened  and  sucked  the 
wound  and  applied  a  tourniquet  above  it.  Then  he  hurried 
home  and  drank  large  quantities  of  ammonia  and  also  ap- 
plied some  to  his  arm.  He  stated  that  he  was  very  ill  for 
several  weeks  but  that  persistent  use  of  the  ammonia  over- 
came the  effects  of  the  poison  and  he  gradually  recovered. 

Through  the  kindness  of  our  new  friends  we  secured 
hand-cars  on  which  to  resume  the  journey  to  the  end  of 
the  line — about  ten  miles  distant.  The  baggage  was  placed 
on  some  of  them  while  we  occupied  another.  The  way  lay 
down-hill  and  we  dashed  along  at  a  great  pace,  taking 
curves  without  diminished  speed.  There  were  several 
short  tunnels,  the  entrances  of  which  loomed  up  like  the 
black  openings  in  a  grotto;  in  a  flash  we  were  plunged  into 
absolute  darkness;  a  moment  later  we  raced  back  into 


DOWN  THE  COAST  OF  PERU  277 

bright  sunshine.  Whenever  an  obstruction  in  the  track 
ahead  was  sighted  the  brakes  were  applied  and  then  every- 
thing was  carried  around  and  the  trip  continued.  We 
met  a  good  many  Indians  on  the  road-bed;  they  preferred 
its  use  to  the  rocky  trail  along  the  river,  and  even  drove 
their  burros  and  llamas  »on  it.  All  employees  of  the  com- 
pany had  orders  to  punish  any  one  found  on  the  track,  in 
order  that  they  might  learn  to  keep  off  it,  as  there  would 
otherwise  be  a  great  loss  of  life  when  trains  begin  their 
runs  over  the  line.  The  favorite  form  of  chastisement  con- 
sisted of  pouncing  on  the  Indians  and  taking  their  hats 
away  from  them.  The  head-gear  was  taken  several  miles 
down  the  track  and  thrown  into  the  top  of  a  cactus  or 
thorny  tree.  If  the  offender  resisted  the  seizure  of  his 
hat  he  was  told  that  he  might  have  it  by  calling  on  the 
foreman  of  the  nearest  construction-camp;  when  he  arrived 
a  good  lecture  was  given  him  and  in  some  instances  a  fine 
was  imposed. 

It  took  several  hours  to  reach  the  end  of  the  line,  as 
landslides  and  the  attendant  portages  around  them  had 
been  numerous.  We  spent  the  remainder  of  the  day  and 
the  night  at  Arce,  an  Indian  village.  Several  hundred 
Quechuas  had  gathered,  as  it  was  market-day;  they  brought 
a  good  deal  of  cloth  and  beautiful  blankets  to  sell,  but  their 
prices  were  several  times  those  asked  in  more  remote  re- 
gions. At  night  the  assembly  played  on  reed  flutes  and 
native  guitars,  sang,  danced,  and  drank  chicha;  the  revelry 
lasted  until  the  first  gray  streaks  of  dawn  appeared  over 
the  mountain-top,  and  then  the  mob  dispersed  to  their  dis- 
tant homes  in  the  high  valleys. 

Our  journey  was  continued  the  morning  after  reaching 
Arce.  We  had  secured  a  train  of  good,  strong  mules  and 
expert  Indian  arrieros.  The  trail  lay  along  the  river-bed, 
which  was  very  wide  and  paved  with  small  pebbles.  At 
numerous  points  Quechua  women  had  put  up  small  shacks  of 
stones  and  reeds;  they  squatted  within  the  makeshift  shel- 
ters all  day  long.  A  white  rag  floating  above  from  a  tall 


278  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

bamboo  announced  to  the  weary  wayfarer  that  chicha  was 
for  sale  within,  and  all  the  travellers  we  saw  religiously 
stopped  at  each  of  these  road-houses  to  slake  their  thirst. 
At  one  point  a  wall  of  rock  rises  from  the  stream  to  a  height 
of  three  thousand  feet;  two  condors  were  perched  upon  the 
very  tip,  their  black  forms  clearly -outlined  against  the  sky, 
while  two  others  circled  swiftly  above.  We  passed  through 
the  towns  of  Yberta  and  Sacamolla  without  stopping  to 
rest,  and  after  fifteen  and  a  half  hours'  continuous  riding 
reached  the  home  of  the  manager  of  the  railroad,  a  Mr. 
Taylor,  with  whom  we  spent  the  night.  The  place  is 
called  Parotani,  and  we  subsequently  spent  some  time  there 
investigating  its  interesting  fauna.  At  noon  on  the  follow- 
ing day  we  reached  Vinto,  which  marks  the  beginning  of  an 
electric  tram-line  to  Cochabamba.  We  did  not  take  ad- 
vantage of  this  easy  means  of  transportation,  but  contin- 
ued the  journey  on  mule-back,  and  two  hours  later  found 
ourselves  at  our  destination. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS  FROM 
COCHABAMBA  TO  THE  CHAPARE 

COCHABAMBA  is  one  of  the  more  important  cities  of 
Bolivia.  In  size  it  ranks  next  to  La  Paz,  although  it  is 
not  nearly  so  modern,  and  in  point  of  activity  it  is  far  in 
advance  of  Sucre.  The  population  is  about  thirty-five 
thousand. 

The  plain  upon  which  the  city  is  built  was  at  one  time 
the  bottom  of  a  lake,  which  fact  is  indicated  by  its  ancient 
name  of  Oropeza,  a  Quechua  word  meaning  "plain  of  the 
lake."  On  account  of  its  high  elevation,  which  is  approxi- 
mately eight  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  sea-level, 
the  region  enjoys  a  mild  climate;  the  average  annual  tem- 
perature is  66°  F.  Rain  falls  in  abundance  during  the 
months  from  November  to  April;  and  during  the  dry 
months  irrigation  is  resorted  to  for  providing  water  to  the 
fields  of  alfalfa  and  grain.  The  country  is  naturally  of  a 
decidedly  semiarid  character. 

The  city  boasts  a  number  of  fairly  modern  buildings,  al- 
though by  far  the  greater  number  are  of  the  low  adobe 
type  with  thatched  or  tile  roofs;  delightful  little  plazas 
filled  with  tropical  trees  and  shrubbery  relieve  the  monot- 
ony of  the  rows  of  white  edifices. 

The  shops  are  filled  with  provisions  and  dry-goods  at 
remarkably  low  prices;  the  city  market  is  supplied  with  a 
superabundance  of  produce,  flowers,  and  articles  of  native 
manufacture;  the  people  are  courteous  and  obliging,  and 
the  great  numbers  of  Indians  and  Cholos  give  a  touch  of 
gayety  and  color  to  the  throngs  which  fill  the  streets. 

Among  the  city's  institutions  deserving  of  special  men- 
tion is  the  Cochabamba  Institute,  founded  in  1911.  The 
instructors  are  nearly  all  Americans  of  the  type  one  meets 

279 


280  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

all  too  rarely  in  South  America,  and  who  are  really  doing 
a  great  and  noble  work  in  furthering  the  educational  and 
moral  progress  of  the  country.  Several  hundred  students 
of  both  sexes,  from  many  and  remote  parts  of  Bolivia, 
attend  the  literary  and  business  classes  of  the  college,  live 
under  the  care  and  refining  influence  of  its  instructors, 
and,  as  I  subsequently  discovered,  introduce  into  their 
homes  the  desirable  and  elevating  qualities  which  they 
have  acquired. 

To  the  northwest  towers  the  Cerro  Tunari,  a  mountain 
over  fifteen  thousand  feet  high  and  of  imposing  appear- 
ance. It  rises  in  majestic  proportions  above  the  uneven 
summits  of  the  cordillera,  in  a  manner  befitting  a  snow- 
crowned  monarch  of  the  range. 

We  spent  several  days  in  the  city,  adding  to  our  outfit 
and  purchasing  mules,  and  then  started  eastward  en  route 
to  the  Beni  district;  it  was  our  intention  to  go  slowly  and 
stop  at  places  which  offered  a  suitable  field  for  our  opera- 
tions. 

Leaving  Cochabamba  on  the  afternoon  of  May  9,  1915, 
we  rode  the  fifteen  miles  to  the  town  of  Sacaba,  arriving 
there  at  dusk.  The  intervening  country  is  thickly  settled, 
and  large  areas  are  irrigated  and  planted  in  alfalfa,  maize, 
wheat,  grapes,  and  vegetables.  Nearly  all  the  inhabitants 
are  Indians  of  the  Quechua  race. 

Beyond  Sacaba  the  trail  adheres  closely  to  the  bed  of  a 
small  stream,  and  ascends  at  a  steep  angle.  Numerous  lit- 
tle canals  carry  the  water  along  the  mountainside,  and  the 
country  is  dotted  with  small  stone  huts  surrounded  by 
carefully  cultivated  fields;  this  is  made  possible  by  the  fact 
that  the  rivulet  never  dries,  but,  on  the  contrary,  supplies 
a  constant  stream  of  water  of  sufficient  volume  to  irrigate 
a  large  area.  The  canals  have  been  dug  with  great  pre- 
cision; each  family  uses  only  as  much  as  required,  and  at 
stated  intervals,  so  there  is  enough  for  all. 

The  trail  goes  up  steadily  until  an  elevation  of  twelve 
thousand  feet  is  reached.  As  we  neared  the  top  a  strong 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS  281 

wind  sprang  up,  so  that  it  was  difficult  to  keep  one's  place 
in  the  saddle.  The  mountainside  is  covered  with  small, 
round  rocks  of  uniform  size,  such  as  one  would  usually 
expect  to  find  in  a  dry  river-bed. 

Beyond  the  high  summit  of  the  first  ridge  lies  the  high 
mountain  valley  in  which  is  located  the  Quechua  village 
of  Cuchicancha  (meaning  "pig-pen")-  There  are  several 
score  of  huts  scattered  about  in  little  groups,  and  built  of 
rocks,  with  thatched  roofs.  The  Indians  speak  practically 
no  Spanish,  and  live  in  much  the  same  way  as  they  did  in 
the  days  of  Atahualpa.  In  order  to  cultivate  the  land 
they  have  gathered  the  rocks  which  everywhere  carpet  the 
ground  into  huge  piles,  and  also  built  fences  of  them;  large 
quantities  of  potatoes,  ocas,  and  avas  are  grown. 

Each  family  owns  a  flock  of  sheep,  which  apparently 
replace  the  llamas  of  olden  days,  although  flocks  of  the  lat- 
ter animals  are  still  to  be  seen  frequently;  also  a  few  pigs 
and  burros.  They  have  likewise  taken  to  cultivating 
wheat,  oats,  and  rye. 

We  decided  to  spend  a  week  at  Cuchicancha  and  suc- 
ceeded in  persuading  an  old  Quechua  man  to  rent  us  his 
hut  for  that  length  of  time.  He  spoke  not  a  word  of  Span- 
ish, or  at  least  pretended  that  he  knew  nothing  whatever 
of  that  language,  so  all  conversation  had  to  be  carried  on 
through  an  interpreter.  As  our  coming  was  a  complete 
surprise  to  him,  he  asked  if  he  could  occupy  the  habitation 
with  us  for  a  few  nights  until  he  had  time  to  find  sleeping- 
quarters  elsewhere;  to  this  we,  of  course,  consented.  One 
night  I  was  awakened  by  loud  talking,  and  much  to  my 
astonishment  found  that  the  aged  Indian,  who  had  evi- 
dently taken  too  much  chicha  during  the  day,  was  restlessly 
tossing  on  his  pile  of  sheepskins  and  blankets,  and  talking 
in  his  sleep — in  excellent  Spanish.  After  that  we  conversed 
with  him  without  the  aid  of  an  interpreter,  and  he  under- 
stood every  word  of  it,  too. 

The  weather  at  Cuchicancha  was  splendid;  it  was  autumn, 
and  while  the  nights  were  cold,  the  days  were  always  com- 


282  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

fortably  warm.  The  Indians  were  friendly  and  brought 
us  eggs,  goats'  milk,  chickens,  and  bread.  Each  morning 
the  children  took  the  flocks  to  the  narrow  river-bed  to  feed 
on  the  sparse  vegetation,  and  at  night  they  brought  them 
back  to  the  stone  corrals;  they  took  a  few  boiled  potatoes- 
with  them  for  lunch,  and  also  their  spinning  for  pastime. 
All  spin  except  the  men;  and  every  one  had  an  abundance 
of  blankets  and  ponchos;  even  the  bags  for  grain  and  pota- 
toes are  made  of  homespun  wool. 

The  harvest  had  been  gathered  and  every  one  seemed 
contented.  One  day  a  party  of  Indians  collected  to  thresh 
wheat;  from  a  distance  I  could  hear  the  boom  of  a  drum 
and  the  shrill  wail  of  reed  flutes;  as  I  approached,  a  strange 
sight  met  my  eyes.  Bundles  of  grain  had  been  piled  in  a 
high  mound,  on  the  top  of  which  sat  the  musicians;  a  dozen 
mounted  Indians  were  driving  a  herd  of  mules  and  burros 
around  the  base.  Around  and  around  they  went  at  a 
frantic  pace,  keeping  perfect  time  with  the  music;  as  the 
animals  circled  the  stack  a  man  on  top  cast  armfuls  of 
wheat  down  in  their  path,  so  that  in  running  over  it  re- 
peatedly they  naturally  trampled  out  the  grain.  About  a 
hundred  men,  each  holding  to  a  long  rope,  formed  a  circular 
fence  around  the  racing  mob  and  prevented  any  of  the 
animals  from  escaping. 

We  were  surprised  at  the  abundance  of  life  in  this  natu- 
rally barren  region.  There  were  practically  no  indigenous 
trees,  but  a  long  line  of  willows  had  been  planted  near  one 
of  the  houses,  and  to  these  thousands  of  cowbirds,  doves, 
and  finches  came  each  night  to  sleep.  A  short  walk  across 
the  stubble-fields  always  revealed  something  new.  There 
were  tinamou  which  rose  with  a  loud  whir,  reminding  one 
of  partridges;  many  species  of  brownish  birds  belonging  to 
the  wood-hewer  family,  one  of  them  with  a  long,  curved  bill, 
but  they  ran  about  on  the  ground  or  perched  on  the  stone 
fences;  large  flickers  lived  among  the  rocks,  and  condors 
soared  above;  and  there  were  even  flocks  of  gulls  and  plov- 
ers. The  most  unusual  birds  were  two  species  of  very 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS          283 

small  parrakeets  which  clambered  about  over  the  rocks 
and  slept  in  holes  in  the  high  banks.  Vast  numbers  of 
cavies  lived  in  the  rock-piles,  from  which  they  sallied  at  all 
hours  of  the  day  in  quest  of  food,  and  many  small  rodents 
inhabited  the  grain-fields. 

A  good  trail  leads  eastward  from  Cochicancha;  the  sum- 
mit of  the  range  rises  about  two  leagues  from  the  settle- 
ment. At  the  time  of  our  visit  the  black,  rocky  peaks  were 
covered  with  a  mantle  of  snow  and  an  icy  wind  swept 
through  the  cleft  which  serves  as  a  pass.  The  elevation  of 
the  trail  is  thirteen  thousand  four  hundred  feet.  At  the 
base  of  the  towering  masses  which  rise  several  hundred 
feet  above  the  passage,  lies  a  placid  little  lake,  and  ducks, 
and  gulls  were  swimming  on  its  peaceful  surface.  Condors 
swept  down  from  above  to  inspect  us,  and  then  soared  back 
to  their  dizzy  perches  among  the  unscalable  crags. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  divide  the  trail  leads  down- 
ward abruptly,  and  the  character  of  the  country  changes; 
at  eleven  thousand  feet  a  sparse  growth  of  bushes  appears, 
growing  denser  with  each  passing  mile.  Suddenly  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  rim  of  a  gorge  through  which  the 
Incachaca  River  rushes — a  raging  mountain  torrent  fed  by 
snows  melting  in  the  high  altitudes.  The  path  is  a  mere 
shelf  cut  in  the  face  of  the  cliff;  to  the  left  rise  the  smooth 
walls  of  frowning,  black  rock;  to  the  right  is  a  sheer  drop 
to  the  river.  We  could  peer  over  the  edge  of  the  precipice 
and  see  drifting  clouds  two  thousand  feet  below,  filling  the 
chasm  and  shutting  from  view  the  bottom  hundreds  of  feet 
lower  down. 

At  seven  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  the  forest  "begins; 
a  collection  of  half  a  dozen  huts  called  Incachaca  nestles  in 
it's  inner  border,  and  there  we  decided  to  remain  for  a  few 
weeks.  We  secured  space  in  a  large  house  belonging  to 
an  organization  which  is  engaged  in  digging  a  canal  along 
the  opposite  side  of  the  gorge;  when  this  work  is  completed 
the  water  of  the  river  will  be  turned  into  the  artificial 
course  and  utilized  for  running  dynamos  to  furnish  elec- 


284  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

tricity  for  the  light  and  street-car  service  of  Cochabamba. 
A  power-house  had  been  constructed  at  the  bottom  of  the 
ravine,  and  the  lines  for  transmitting  the  current  had  been 
strung  across  the  mountains. 

At  Incachaca  the  river  flows  through  an  underground 
channel;  while  exploring  the  forest  one  day  we  came  sud- 
denly upon  the  narrow  cleft  in  the  mountainside,  scarcely 
a  dozen  feet  across,  and  with  a  great  deal  of  effort  were 
finally  able  to  distinguish  the  roaring  white  torrent  a  hun- 
dred feet  below.  The  edges  of  the  cleft  are  so  overgrown 
with  ferns  that  one  has  no  idea  of  its  existence  until  the 
very  brink  is  reached.  A  short  distance  below,  the  river 
emerges  from  the  darkened  cavern,  and  plunging  over  the 
face  of  a  precipice,  thunders  into  a  pool  in  a  sheer  drop  of 
fifty  or  sixty  feet. 

We  found  the  upper  limit  of  a  subtropical  fauna  at  Inca- 
chaca. Bird-flocks  travelled  hurriedly  through  the  trees; 
they  were  composed  of  bright-colored  tanagers,  finches, 
and  cotingas.  Honey-creepers  and  hummers  were  plenti- 
ful in  the  flowering  shrubs.  Queer  little  ducks  called  mer- 
ganettas  disported  in  the  pool  below  the  falls,  and  dippers 
ran  nimbly  along  the  edge  of  the  water.  In  one  of  the  tall 
trees  near  the  river  we  discovered  the  nest  of  an  eagle.  We 
found  it  impossible  to  climb  the  tree,  but  a  German  named 
Ricardo  Marquardt,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  workmen 
along  the  river,  succeeded  in  reaching  the  huge  mass  of 
sticks  seventy  feet  above  the  ground,  and  brought  down  a 
beautifully  spotted  egg.  To  my  companion,  Mr.  Howarth 
S.  Boyle,  who  accompanied  me  on  the  entire  trip,  belongs 
the  credit  of  taking  the  rarest  birds  from  this  locality; 
they  were  a  pair  of  white-eared  thrushes  (Entomodestes) , 
which,  so  far  as  I  can  learn,  exist  in  only  two  other  mu- 
seums. Among  the  lower  growth  lived  many  ant-thrushes 
(Grallaria),  whose  clear  call  could  be  heard  at  all  hours  of 
the  day.  This  is  one  of  the  hardest  of  all  birds  to  collect. 
The  long-legged,  tailless  songsters  never  leave  the  thick 
growth  of  ferns  and  brush,  and  the  only  way  to  secure  them 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS          285 

is  to  enter  the  dense  cover,  sit  quietly,  and  imitate  the 
clear,  ringing  call  in  the  hope  of  attracting  the  birds;  some- 
times this  requires  hours  of  patient  work,  and  more  often 
than  not  the  effort  is  futile. 

Coatimondis,  or  raccoons,  roamed  in  the  woods  in  small 
bands,  sniffing  in  the  damp  mould  and  searching  for  in- 
sects; while  feeding  they  uttered  deep  grunts,  but  when 
frightened  they  gave  a  succession  of  rapid  bird-like  chirps. 
These  animals  spend  a  good  deal  of  their  time  in  the  trees, 
but  are  almost  invariably  found  on  the  ground  in  the  day- 
time; when  pursued  they  are  very  pugnacious  and  it  takes 
an  exceptionally  agile  dog  indeed  to  avoid  being  severely 
torn  by  the  sharp  teeth  and  claws.  In  captivity  they  be- 
come very  tame,  and  make  nice  little  pets,  although  their 
mischievous  disposition  often  gets  them  into  trouble. 

From  Incachaca  to  Locota"!  is  a  distance  of  only  eight 
miles,  but  the  scenery  along  a  part  of  the  route  is  as  im- 
pressive as  any  to  be  found  in  the  entire  Andean  chain; 
perhaps  the  gorge  of  the  Urubamba,  in  Peru,  alone  equals 
it  in  grandeur  and  awe-inspiring  magnificence.  The  bare, 
shattered,  and  split  crags  reach  many  hundred  feet  above 
the  trail,  and  stand  in  a  leaning  position  so  that  the  tops 
actually  hang  over  the  narrow  passageway  as  if  threaten- 
ing to  topple  over  at  any  moment;  below,  the  steep  slope  is 
covered  with  huge  boulders  which  have  fallen  from  the 
towering  masses  above. 

At  Locotdl  there  are  but  half  a  dozen  houses,  occupied 
by  Quechua  families  who  subsist  mainly  on  the  profits  de- 
rived from  the  sale  of  chicha.  We  stopped  a  few  days  in  a 
hut  owned  by  a  kind-hearted  old  woman  who  gave  us  per- 
mission to  use  it;  next  day  we  found  that  we  were  occupy- 
ing the  schoolroom,  and  the  teacher  followed  by  his  half- 
dozen  ragged  scholars  came  to  take  possession.  He  tried 
to  show  us  how  important  it  was  to  have  the  place  at  once, 
but  we  saw  no  reason  why  he  could  not  conduct  his  class 
out  under  the  trees  just  as  well  as  under  the  shelter;  this 
suggestion  offended  him  very  much,  so  greatly  to  the  delight 


286  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

of  the  pupils  he  declared  a  vacation  until  the  gringos  should 
move  on. 

Chicha,  the  native  drink  of  Quechuas  and  Bolivians  alike, 
is  a  kind  of  corn-beer;  it  is  made  by  grinding  maize  into  a 
fine  meal,  after  which  the  women  and  children  thoroughly 
masticate  a  part  of  it;  water  is  added  to  the  mass  and  the 
thick  liquid  is  boiled  several  hours,  after  which  it  is  poured 
into  jars  to  ferment;  it  is  of  a  yellow  color,  has  a  tart,  agree- 
able taste,  and  is  intoxicating. 

The  forest  at  Locota"!  is  somewhat  taller  than  at  Inca- 
chaca,  but  the  birds  are  of  a  similar  character.  Very  abun- 
dant and  beautiful  were  the  brilliant  cocks-of-the-rock;  the 
bright,  orange-red  creatures  flashed  through  the  deep  green 
of  the  forest  like  fiery  comets  and,  perching  on  the  low 
branch  of  a  tree,  quietly  surveyed  their  surrounding,  or 
uttered  hoarse,  croaking  calls.  This  bird  is  most  conspicu- 
ous in  its  natural  environment.  Among  the  other  large 
birds  were  green  toucans  (Aulacorhynchus) ;  the  natives 
hunted  them  on  every  possible  occasion  for  the  sake  of 
obtaining  the  bill,  which  they  use  as  remedio,  the  rasping 
sound  made  by  rubbing  the  mandibles  together  being  sup- 
posed to  be  an  unfailing  cure  for  epilepsy. 

While  pursuing  our  work  at  Locotal,  a  man  named 
Quiroga  chanced  to  pass,  and  begged  that  we  pay  him  the 
honor  of  stopping  at  his  house  some  distance  below;  it  was 
a  charming  place,  he  said,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  wonder- 
ful Yungas.  We  gladly  accepted  his  invitation,  and  one 
morning  loaded  our  outfit  on  mules  and  started  down  the 
trail.  For  a  mile  there  is  only  a  narrow  ledge  in  the  face 
of  a  rounded  mountain  of  dark  sandstone;  a  few  stunted 
sprouts,  and  myriads  of  orchids  covered  with  purple  blooms, 
have  secured  a  precarious  foothold  in  crevices  in  the  glazed 
surface;  hundreds  of  feet  below,  but  invisible,  the  river 
tears  through  a  narrow  gorge.  At  one  point  a  strip  of  the 
shelf  upon  which  we  travelled  had  entirely  disappeared; 
we  could  not  see  the  bottom  of  the  canyon — its  depth  was 
too  great — but  there  were  evidences  we  could  not  mistake, 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS          287 

telling  us  the  history  of  the  gap  in  the  trail.  Vultures 
hovered  over  the  spot  and  perched  on  the  scant  vegetation, 
and  from  below  came  an  overpowering  stench.  What  more 
was  needed  to  reveal  the  fact  that  the  missing  section  of 
trail,  in  its  mad  dash  through  space,  had  taken  with  it  the 
pack-train  of  mules,  and  probably  the  men  attending  them, 
which  chanced  to  be  passing  at  the  time. 

Miguelito  is  only  three  miles  below  Locotdl,  and  consists 
of  three  or  four  huts  in  the  centre  of  a  grassy  clearing. 
The  Quechuas  who  live  there  are  friendly,  and  one  may  be 
sure  of  a  welcome  for  a  night's  stop. 

At  five  thousand  five  hundred  feet  the  forest  becomes 
taller  and  the  trees  attain  a  greater  diameter.  The  vegeta- 
tion of  the  subtropic  zone  reaches  its  highest  development 
at  this  altitude.  After  crossing  a  ridge  six  thousand  seven 
hundred  feet  high,  the  trail  descends  a  long  slope  into  the 
Yungas,  properly  known  as  the  Yungas  of  Cochabamba. 
At  the  base  of  the  ridge,  and  shortly  before  entering  the 
cultivated  area,  we  crossed  the  dry,  narrow  bed  of  a  stream 
which  was  filled  with  rocks  bearing  the  imprints  of  leaves, 
and  also  fossil  shells. 

Yungas  is  the  name  given  to  the  fertile  mountain  slopes 
which  have  been  cleared  of  forest  and  cultivated;  it  stretches 
along  the  sides  of  the  Rio  Yungas  for  a  number  of  miles, 
and  huts  dot  the  roadside  at  frequent  intervals.  When 
we  visited  the  region  in  June  only  the  Indian  caretakers 
lived  in  the  habitations,  the  coca,  which  is  the  principal 
product,  having  been  collected  a  short  time  before,  and 
the  propietarios  having  gone  back  to  Cochabamba.  The 
owners  visit  their  plantations  three  times  a  year,  supervise 
the  picking  and  packing  of  the  leaves  and,  after  a  month, 
return  to  Cochabamba  to  sell  the  drug  and  live  on  the 
proceeds  until  the  next  harvest. 

After  spending  an  hour  in  questioning  the  occupants  of 
the  various  houses  which  we  passed,  we  succeeded  in  locat- 
ing the  house  to  which  we  had  been  invited.  It  was  a  low, 
one-room  board  structure,  open  at  both  ends,  and  with 


288  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

wide  entrances  on  each  side,  situated  in  the  centre  of  a 
large  banana-field.  An  Indian,  so  old  that  he  could  hardly 
walk,  lived  in  the  hovel  and  refused  to  admit  us;  however, 
we  flourished  our  letter  of  introduction  from  the  owner  of 
the  premises,  took  possession,  and  remained  a  week.  When 
we  left,  the  aged  tenant  implored  us  to  remain  >  as  we  had 
daily  provided  him  with  all  the  game  he  could  eat,  and 
had  provided  him  with  some  medicines  that  he  greatly 
needed. 

The  climate  at  this  season,  June,  was  most  trying.  Al- 
though the  elevation  is  only  three  thousand  five  hundred 
feet,  the  whole  region  was  covered  with  fog  each  night, 
and  the  cold  and  damp  penetrated  everything;  during  a 
part  of  the  year  the  weather  is  good,  and  then  life  in  the 
Yungas  is  more  bearable.  We  had  a  trying  time  at  Sefior 
Quiroga's  hut,  and  while  the  pleasure  of  investigating  a 
new  region  is  always  intense,  our  joy  at  leaving  was  in  this 
particular  instance  vastly  greater. 

There  is  no  flat  valley  along  the  river,  which  is  of  consid- 
erable size,  and  all  cultivation  is  done  on  the  steep  moun- 
tainsides. Coca  is  planted  in  terraces  and  occupies  the 
greatest  acreage;  then  there  are  red  bananas,  plantains, 
guavas,  and  sugar-cane. 

The  fauna  of  the  country  seems  to  represent  a  transition 
zone.  There  are  birds  typical  of  the  higher  country,  and 
others  which  are  common  lower  down;  also,  a  number  found 
at  approximately  this  altitude  only.  Near  the  house,  and 
on  the  edge  of  the  banana-plantation,  was  a  tall,  isolated 
tree.  Flocks  of  birds,  in  their  flight  from  one  side  of  the 
canyon  to  the  other,  would  invariably  alight  in  its  branches 
for  a  few  minutes'  rest.  There  were  many  brilliantly  col- 
ored little  tanagers  (Tanagrd)  which  came  to  the  tree  in 
considerable  numbers  and  chirped  and  quarrelled  as  they 
flitted  about  examining  the  leaves  for  insects,  or  reached 
out  to  pick  the  small  fruits  with  which  the  tree  was  cov- 
ered; one  day  not  less  than  seven  species  of  these  birds 
visited  this  resort  within  a  short  time. 


An  Indian  hut  in  the  Yungas  of  Cochabamba. 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS          289 

Giant  orioles  (Ostinops)  were  also  very  plentiful,  and 
travelled  in  large,  noisy  flocks.  One  of  the  more  interesting 
birds  was  a  species  of  small,  red-tailed  parrakeet  (Pyrrhurd) 
which  clung  to  and  crawled  up  the  sides  of  trees  like  squir- 
rels; it  was  almost  impossible  to  see  them  unless  they 
moved,  so  well  did  their  coloration,  and  more  particularly 
their  actions,  conceal  them. 

We  had  travelled  to  the  Yungas  on  mules  owned  by  the 
expedition,  and  upon  our  arrival  turned  them  loose  to  feed 
as  usual.  Next  morning  the  animals  were  in  a  sorry  plight; 
they  had  been  visited  by  vampire-bats  during  the  night, 
and  bled  so  badly  that  we  had  to  send  them  back  to  Lo- 
cotal  without  delay.  Severe  as  this  attack  seemed  to  be, 
it  was  mild  compared  to  what  we  were  to  see  later  on.  We 
discovered  clumps  of  the  small  bats  guilty  of  the  execution 
spending  the  days  under  the  roof  of  our  hut,  and  despatched 
many  of  them,  but  this  made  no  impression  whatever  upon 
their  vast  number.  People,  also,  are  bitten  on  any  part 
of  the  body  which  is  left  exposed  at  night,  and  I  have  fre- 
quently seen  Indians  which  had  been  attacked  on  nose, 
forehead,  and  arms. 

After  completing  our  work  in  the  Yungas  we  returned 
to  Cochabamba  in  order  to  await  more  favorable  weather 
for  the  trip  into  the  lowlands  of  eastern  Bolivia,  and  to 
restock  our  outfit  with  articles  which  had  been  used,  and 
others  which  it  seemed  necessary  to  acquire  for  the  difficult 
undertaking  ahead. 

After  spending  several  weeks  in  the  vicinity  of  Cocha- 
bamba, we  made  arrangements  with  the  mail-carrier  which 
enabled  us  to  travel  jointly  to  the  Chapare.  He  usually 
made  the  trip  at  six  weeks'  intervals  during  the  dry  sea- 
son, and,  consequently,  he  knew  the  trail  better  than  any 
one  else.  His  peons  were  also  accustomed  to  the  country 
and  knew  how  to  adjust  packs  so  they  would  meet  the 
varying  conditions  of  the  road,  which  is  an  "art"  that 
can  be  learned  through  long  experience  only. 

On  July  12  we  left  Cochabamba.    Besides  my  companion 


290  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

and  our  personal  attendant  there  were  the  mail-carrier  and 
his  three  peons;  twelve  good,  strong  mules  carried  the  lug- 
gage, and  there  were  half  a  dozen  riding  and  spare  animals 
— quite  a  cavalcade  for  the  kind  of  undertaking  in  hand. 

Three  days  after  starting  we  reached  our  old  camping- 
spot  in  the  Yungas,  and,  after  stopping  for  a  short  chat 
with  the  old  caretaker  of  Senor  Quiroga's  hut  we  proceeded 
into  what  was  for  us  terra  incognita. 

Numerous  huts  of  flimsy  construction  are  scattered  along 
the  entire  twenty  miles  or  more  of  cultivated  slopes;  each 
has  a  fenced-in  area  paved  with  flat  stones  upon  which 
coca  leaves  are  dried.  We  stopped  at  a  number  of  these 
dwellings  in  an  attempt  to  buy  fruit  or  vegetables,  but  un- 
fortunately the  men  were  all  away  working  in  the  fields, 
and  any  one  who  has  attempted  to  purchase  anything  from 
the  average  Quechua  squaw  knows  how  hopeless  a  task  it 
is.  Although  they  may  have  a  superabundance  of  the 
article  desired,  they  seem  to  take  great  delight  in  refusing 
to  sell  anything  to  a  stranger;  then  the  only  method  to 
follow  is  to  take  what  is  needed,  offer  a  fair  price  for  it 
and  pass  on,  leaving  them  in  the  midst  of  their  wild  rant- 
ings;  the  men  are  easier  to  deal  with. 

The  peons,  and  the  patrdn  as  well,  stopped  at  each  hut 
where  the  white  flag  announced  that  chicha  was  for  sale, 
and  attempted  to  drink  enough  to  last  them  until  their 
return;  after  their  money  gave  out  they  left  articles  of 
clothing  in  payment  for  the  drinks.  It  was  therefore  a 
great  relief  when  the  last  abode  of  the  intoxicating  bever- 
age had  been  left  behind,  and  we  plunged  into  the  wilder- 
ness. Immediately  after  leaving  the  Yungas  we  ascended 
a  precipitous  slope,  the  top  of  which  was  seven  hundred 
feet  above  the  surrounding  country,  and  then  descended 
on  the  other  side  until  the  elevation  was  only  two  thou- 
sand feet;  here  the  forest  was  more  tropical  in  character, 
and  some  of  the  trees,  especially  the  cottonwoods,  reached  a 
height  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  measured  twenty- 
five  feet  through  the  buttressed  roots  at  the  base. 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS          291 

The  day  after  leaving  the  Yungas  we  reached  the  most 
dangerous  part  of  the  whole  trail.  After  crossing  a  num- 
ber of  steep,  high  ridges,  we  came  to  an  abrupt  slope,  the 
side  of  which  is  seared  by  a  huge  gash  where  the  treacher- 
ous white  clay  keeps  sliding  constantly  into  the  river,  many 
hundreds  of  feet  below.  Each  caravan  desiring  to  pass 
must  first  cut  a  ledge  in  the  moving  mass  of  soft,  muddy 
earth,  and  then  hurriedly  lead  the  mules  across,  one  at  a 
time,  before  the  newly  made  trail  is  obliterated.  The  spot 
is  very  appropriately  named  Sal-si-Puedes  (pass  if  you  can), 
for  any  one  succeeding  in  crossing  this  slide  is  very  apt  to 
possess  the  ingenuity  required  to  negotiate  the  remainder 
of  the  trail. 

That  night  we  made  camp  early  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio 
San  Antonio,  called  Chuspipascana  by  the  Indians,  which 
means  Mosquito  River.  The  altitude  of  the  site  is  only 
one  thousand  eight  hundred  feet  above  sea-level.  The 
river  was  a  clear,  rapid  stream  one  hundred  feet  wide, 
flowing  through  a  rock-strewn  bed  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
across.  Swarms  of  black  flies,  sand-flies,  and  other  sting- 
ing or  biting  insects  immediately  came  out  to  greet  us. 
Birds  were  very  abundant.  In  addition  to  the  jays,  ant- 
wrens  and  manakins,  which  remained  in  the  forest,  flocks 
of  parrots  and  toucans  flew  across  the  open  spaces.  One  of 
the  most  unusual  occurrences  was  the  great  flocks  of  a 
new  species  of  giant  oriole;  there  were  not  less  than  one 
thousand  of  these  birds  in  a  single  flock,  and  they  roamed 
almost  everywhere,  coming  close  to  camp  to  inspect  the 
tents,  and  to  discuss  them  in  hoarse  cries  of  curiosity  or 
resentment.  They  were  beautiful  creatures,  of  a  deep 
chestnut  color  with  light  olive-green  head  and  neck;  the 
face  is  devoid  of  plumage  and  of  a  flesh-color,  while  the  tip 
of  the  bill  is  deep  orange.  The  flesh  is  highly  esteemed 
by  the  natives  and  we  found  it  quite  palatable. 

As  soon  as  the  cargoes  had  been  neatly  placed  in  a  pile 
and  covered  with  a  tarpaulin  to  keep  them  dry  the  peons 
cooked  their  supper;  this  consisted  of  a  thick  soup  made 


292  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

of  corn-meal  and  chargue  (dried  beef).  They  had  a  meal 
in  the  morning  and  another  at  night;  during  the  long  walk 
throughout  the  day  they  chewed  coca  leaves.  The  mules 
were  turned  loose  to  shift  for  themselves,  but  as  plenty  of 
wild  cane  grows  near  the  rivers,  they  had  an  abundance  of 
food.  One  of  the  animals  carried  a  bell  tied  to  its  neck, 
and  the  others  would  seldom  stray  out  of  hearing  of  the  con- 
stant clanging.  In  the  morning  the  men  easily  located 
the  bell-mule  and  led  it  back  to  camp,  the  others  following 
in  single  file.  Should  one  be  missing,  which  was  a  rare 
occurrence,  it  was  only  necessary  to  take  the  bell  and 
shake  it  vigorously;  this  soon  brought  the  stray  member 
to  the  spot. 

The  remainder  of  the  journey  was  through  the  heavily 
forested  lowland;  the  last  of  the  mountain  ridges  had  been 
left  behind. 

During  the  dry  season  the  caravans  follow  the  courses 
of  streams  as  much  as  possible.  The  water  is  low,  and  the 
wide,  rocky  margins  serve  as  roads.  This  is  far  from  being 
easy  on  the  mules;  the  animals  go  stumbling  and  slipping 
along,  but  a  good  many  miles  are  cut  from  the  total  length 
of  the  journey.  Streams  are  encountered  with  frequency, 
and  as  one  penetrates  farther  into  the  interior  they  become 
wider  and  deeper.  We  crossed  not  less  than  six  fords  in  a 
single  day,  all  between  two  hundred  and  three  hundred 
feet  wide,  the  water  averaging  from  three  to  four  feet  deep. 
Although  the  current  is  strong,  the  mules  are  accustomed 
to  this  kind  of  work  and  usually  manage  to  cross  safely, 
often  stopping  in  the  deepest,  swiftest  spot  to  unconcern- 
edly take  a  drink.  Occasionally,  however,  one  of  the  ani- 
mals slips  on  a  moss-covered  boulder  and  falls:  then  it  is  a 
difficult  matter  to  assist  the  drowning  creature  to  his  feet, 
as  the  swift  water  may  roll  him  over,  and  the  weight  of  the 
pack  keeps  him  down.  In  any  event,  the  least  result  of 
such  an  accident  is  the  thorough  saturation  of  everything 
in  the  pack,  and  this  means  a  day's  loss  of  time  while  the 
soaked  effects  are  spread  out  to  dry.  During  the  rainy 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS  293 

season  streams  rise  with  startling  rapidity,  and  parties 
have  often  been  forced  to  camp  on  the  river-bank  many 
days  until  the  water  went  down.  To  turn  back  is  hope- 
less, as  the  last  stream  crossed  is  just  as  high  as  the  one 
ahead;  there  is  nothing  to  be  done  but  wait. 

Wild  animals  are  particularly  abundant  in  this  section 
of  the  country.  All  day  long  we  could  hear  the  raucous 
scream  of  long-tailed,  multicolored  macaws  (Ara)  as  they 
flew  two  by  two  overhead.  Many  hawks  sat  alertly  on 
dead  snags  near  the  water,  and  black-and-white  gulls  flapped 
hurriedly  up  and  down  along  the  river.  Occasionally  we 
caught  a  glimpse  of  a  small  flock  of  muscovies,  the  largest 
of  South  American  ducks,  as  the  great,  black  birds  flew 
heavily  up-stream.  There  were  also  black  guans,  resem- 
bling small  turkeys,  which  sat  quietly  in  the  tops  of  tall 
trees  until  we  approached  quite  near  to  them;  then,  emit- 
ting a  loud,  mule-like  bray,  they  set  their  wings  and  soared 
across  the  river  or  down  into  the  underbrush.  At  night  the 
forest  was  usually  quiet,  reminding  one  of  "Pools  of  Si- 
lence." Occasionally,  however,  the  still  air  was  suddenly 
rent  by  the  most  unearthly  noise  that  mortal  man  ever 
heard,  and  the  woods  rang  with  the  wild,  insane  cackle  of 
forest-rails  (Aramides).  Beginning  with  a  shrill  oohoo-hee- 
cra,  the  demoniacal  chorus  continued  several  minutes  with- 
out interruption,  swelling  constantly  and  finally  ending 
with  a  few  low,  explosive  cow-cow-cows.  A  number  of 
birds  always  sang  together,  and  the  first  time  one  hears  the 
performance  it  is  enough  to  make  the  flesh  creep  and  the 
hair  to  stand  on  end;  but  even  after  becoming  somewhat 
accustomed  to  the  noise,  it  falls  short  of  conducing  to  peace- 
ful slumber,  suggesting  as  it  does  the  agonized  shrieks  of 
some  tortured  spirit  of  the  jungle. 

Night-monkeys  (Douroucouli)  were  apparently  plentiful, 
but  we  never  saw  them  in  the  daytime.  After  darkness 
had  fallen  they  began  to  move  about  in  the  tree-tops;  one 
night  a  troop  selected  the  tree  under  which  we  camped  for 
the  scene  of  their  .frolic,  and  kept  us  awake  the  greater 


294  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

part  of  the  night.  They  jumped  about  in  the  branches, 
and  from  the  swishing  noises  which  reached  us  it  was  easy 
to  imagine  them  enjoying  a  good  swing  up  and  down  upon 
some  particularly  springy  limb.  They  dropped  leaves  and 
twigs  down  upon  the  tent-fly,  probably  through  accident, 
but  perhaps  prompted  by  the  desire  to  find  out  if  anything 
would  happen.  At  frequent  intervals  they  drew  together 
in  a  close  group  to  chatter  in  low,  grunting  tones,  and  then, 
coming  to  the  conclusion  that  the  queer-looking  objects 
below  them  must  be  capable  of  performing  some  interesting 
action,  again  began  to  tempt  fate  by  showering  down  more 
twigs  and  leaves. 

In  many  places  the  receding  water  of  the  river  had  left 
isolated  pools;  these  were  teeming  with  fish  of  many  spe- 
cies; some  of  them  were  of  large  size.  A  number  which 
we  caught  had  practically  the  entire  tail  and  fins  eaten  off  ; 
their  cannibalistic  brethren  had  no  doubt  taken  advantage 
of  the  circumstances  in  which  they  were  all  placed,  and 
begun  to  devour  them  piecemeal,  at  their  leisure. 

The  trees  were  tall  and  straight,  and  there  was  dense 
undergrowth  near  the  rivers  only.  Mosses  and  epiphytes, 
so  typical  of  the  subtropical  zone,  were  almost  lacking,  but 
frequently  the  wind  brought  the  delightful  fragrance  of 
ripening  vanilla-beans  and  the  perfume  of  flowers.  Great 
clusters  of  scarlet  trumpetflowers  dangled  from  the  tips 
of  slender  vines,  and  from  the  tops  of  many  of  the  trees 
drooped  long  garlands  of  huge  white-and-blue  flowers  that 
resembled  sweet  peas;  some  of  these  blooms  were  two  inches 
hi  diameter.  There  were  also  clumps  of  terrestrial  orchids 
on  some  of  the  rocks,  with  slender  spikes  of  deep  purple 
flowers  waving  daintily  under  the  impulse  of  each  passing 
breeze. 

Seven  days  after  leaving  Cochabamba  we  came  sud- 
denly upon  the  little  cluster  of  grass  and  bamboo  houses 
known  as  Todos  Santos;  there  were  exactly  seven  of  them, 
two  of  which  were  of  large  size,  partially  enclosing  a  wide 
plot  of  ground  carpeted  with  soft  green  grass.  Tall  forest 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS          295 

hemmed  in  the  settlement  on  three  sides,  and  the  Rio 
Chapare*,  flowing  through  deep  banks,  formed  the  boundary 
on  the  fourth  side. 

The  largest  building  was  occupied  by  the  corregidor,  or 
federal  agent,  who  generously  provided  us  with  accommo- 
dations; in  addition  to  the  several  living-rooms  there  was 
an  immense  wareroom  stored  with  hides,  salt,  and  other 
articles  of  commerce.  The  remainder  of  the  houses  were 
occupied  by  families  of  Bolivians  who  possessed  land  or 
concessions  in  the  neighborhood,  and  owned  numbers  of 
Indians  of  the  Yuracare  tribe;  these  latter  lived  in  long 
sheds  built  in  the  rear  of  the  dwellings  of  the  people  they 
served.  There  was  also  a  small  church,  but  no  shops  of 
any  description.  In  spite  of  its  inconsiderable  size,  Todos 
Santos  is  a  place  of  importance  because  it  serves  as  an 
outlet  for  commerce  from  Cochabamba  and  Bolivia  in  gen- 
eral, and  is  the  port  of  entrance  for  hides  from  Trinidad, 
and  merchandise  entering  by  way  of  the  Amazon  and 
Madeira-Mamore  Railroad.  A  small  steamer,  the  Ana 
Catarina,  was  tied  up  against  the  bank,  waiting  for  the 
water  to  rise  sufficiently  for  her  to  proceed  down  the  river; 
this  boat  plies  more  or  less  regularly  between  Todos  Santos 
and  Trinidad,  and  requires  three  days  for  the  downward 
trip,  and  five  days  coming  up.  From  Cochabamba  to 
Trinidad  is  a  distance  of  approximately  two  hundred  and 
sixty-five  miles,  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  overland  and 
one  hundred  on  the  river. 

During  the  dry  season  steam-navigation  on  the  Chapare 
is  very  irregular,  but  canoes  of  large  size  and  native  pad- 
dlers  may  always  be  had.  During  the  rainy  season  there  is 
a  small  steamer  or  launch  each  fortnight. 

Several  years  before,  the  government  had  by  law  abol- 
ished the  practice  of  keeping  Indians  in  the  condition  of 
semislavery,  and  had  ordered  all  owners  to  turn  them  over 
to  the  missions;  this,  however,  had  not  been  done,  and  each 
Bolivian  family  living  at  Todos  Santos  had  a  number  of 
Yuracares  in  its  service.  Not  far  from  the  settlement  were 


296  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

a  number  of  clearings,  some  of  considerable  size,  where 
fruits  and  vegetables  were  cultivated  for  the  benefit  of  the 
amos,  as  the  owners  of  Indians  are  called;  the  Indians 
cleared  the  ground,  cultivated  it,  and  then  brought  in  the 
results  of  their  labor,  receiving  nothing  in  return.  They 
seemed  fairly  contented,  however,  and  did  not  appear  to  be 
suffering  from  ill  treatment.  They  frequently  spent  days 
at  a  time  in  their  shelters  on  the  edges  of  the  fields,  or  in 
hunting  and  fishing  trips  far  from  their  homes. 

Each  Yuracare  woman  kept  a  number  of  Amazon  parrots 
which  she  looked  after  carefully  and  refused  to  sell,  even  at 
a  good  price.  Upon  asking  the  reason  for  this  I  was  told 
that  they  reared  them  for  the  sake  of  the  tail-feathers, 
which  are  in  great  demand  by  the  Aymards.  Each  parrot 
will  grow  three  "crops"  of  feathers  a  year,  each  of  which 
is  worth  fifty  centavos.  The  Aymaras  from  the  vicinity  of 
La  Paz  send  down  agents  at  regular  intervals  to  purchase 
these  feathers,  as  they  use  them  in  making  ornaments  worn 
during  their  annual  festivals. 

In  the  branches  of  one  of  the  tall  trees  near  the  village 
a  neat  little  hut  had  been  built  of  bamboo  and  leaves,  re- 
minding one  a  great  deal  of  a  Philippine  tree-dwelling. 
Indians  armed  with  bows  and  arrows  would  conceal  them- 
selves in  this  house,  forty  feet  above  the  ground,  and  shoot 
many  of  the  birds  which  came  to  feed  on  the  fruit  covering 
the  tree;  other  Indians,  hidden  about  the  base  of  the 
tree,  watched  where  the  birds  fell,  gathered  them  up  and 
skinned  or  plucked  them.  In  this  way  quite  a  number 
could  be  shot  without  alarming  a  feeding  flock. 

The  forest  around  Todos  Santos  abounds  in  wild  life. 
Squirrel-monkeys  (Saimiri)  are  very  numerous  and  travel 
in  troops  of  from  twenty  to  fifty  individuals;  we  saw  them 
daily,  playing  about  in  the  trees,  and  feeding  on  fruits, 
buds,  and  insects.  They  are  delightful  little  pets,  and 
one  that  we  owned  spent  the  greater  part  of  the  day  catch- 
ing the  mosquitoes  which  infested  our  habitation.  It 
searched  every  nook  and  crevice  for  insects,  and  one  of  its 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS          297 

chief  pastimes  was  to  look  through  a  pack  of  cards  in  the 
hopes  of  finding  mosquitoes  between  them.  Harpy  eagles 
also  are  very  plentiful,  and  feed  on  the  squirrel-monkeys 
to  a  great  extent,  as  they  are  easy  to  catch.  However, 
monkeys  are  not  the  only  animals  which  suffer;  we  one  day 
found  the  remains  of  a  sloth  which  had  been  dropped  by 
an  eagle,  the  entire  fore  part  of  which  had  been  eaten 
away. 

There  were  numerous  trees  covered  with  vivid-scarlet 
blossoms,  scattered  throughout  the  forest,  and  forming 
gaudy  little  islands  of  color,  which  stood  out  very  conspicu- 
ously amid  the  green  tree-tops.  These  trees  are  known  as 
madres  de  cacao,  because  they  are  frequently  planted  in 
cacao-groves  to  shield  the  young  plants  from  the  sun.  The 
flowers  contain  so  much  nectar  that  numbers  of  birds  feed 
upon  them,  including  parrots,  macaws,  and  orioles;  when 
the  brilliant  blooms  fall  into  the  river  they  are  greedily 
snapped  up  by  fish. 

Of  small  birds  there  was  such  a  variety  that  it  would  be 
impossible  to  mention  all  of  them,  but  one  in  particular  de- 
serves attention.  It  is  a  species  of  manakin  called  the 
"child  of  the  sun"  by  the  Yuracares,  who  look  upon  the 
tiny  creature  with  reverence  and  would  not  harm  it  under 
any  circumstances.  The  bird  is  not  as  large  as  a  sparrow, 
but  is  of  stocky  build,  with  a  bright  orange-red  head  and 
neck,  the  remainder  of  the  body  being  black.  As  it  whirs 
from  branch  to  branch  it  makes  a  loud  sputtering,  crackling 
noise  which  reminds  one  of  a  bunch  of  small,  exploding  fire- 
crackers. The  female  of  the  species  is  of  a  dull-green  color. 

At  Todos  Santos,  as  elsewhere,  local  migrations  of  birds 
in  the  heart  of  the  tropics  were  several  times  forcibly  brought 
to  our  attention.  We  had  been  hunting  in  the  forest  a 
number  of  weeks  and  were  pretty  well  acquainted  with  its 
inhabitants;  suddenly  a  species  entirely  new  to  us  appeared 
in  great  abundance  in  all  parts  of  the  region;  each  member 
of  the  expedition,  including  the  native  assistants,  brought 
in  specimens  of  it  the  same  day.  This  can  be  explained 


298  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

only  by  the  fact  that  flocks  of  these  particular  birds  had 
arrived  suddenly  from  some  distant  part,  probably  at- 
tracted by  a  fruit  or  insect  which  chanced  to  be  plentiful  at 
the  time,  and  upon  which  they  fed. 

Several  miles  from  port,  and  entirely  concealed  by  the 
forest,  stretches  a  lagoon  of  considerable  size;  it  is  con- 
nected with  the  Chapare  by  a  small,  brush-clogged  creek, 
but  the  water  is  stagnant  and  filled  with  decaying  vegeta- 
tion and  detritus.  Masses  of  bushes  and  swamp-grass 
grow  all  along  the  borders,  and  in  some  sections  the  sur- 
face of  the  water  is  covered  with  floating,  aquatic  plants. 
As  may  be  supposed,  many  species  of  birds  live  both  about 
the  water  and  in  the  dense  thickets  that  line  the  banks. 
Among  the  former  was  the  rare  little  sun-grebe,  but  it  was 
by  no  means  abundant;  the  few  solitary  individuals  we  saw 
were  always  surprised  out  in  the  open  water  and,  after  giv- 
ing a  series  of  hoarse,  loud  cries,  either  flew  or  swam  as 
rapidly  as  possible  to  the  nearest  clump  of  vegetation, 
which  offered  a  secure  retreat.  Graceful  jacanas  stepped 
about  daintily  on  the  lily-pads;  their  toes  are  very  long  and 
give  the  feet  a  wide  spread,  thus  enabling  the  birds  to  walk 
on  the  floating  little  islands  of  water-hyacinths  and  wild 
lettuce;  for  this  reason  the  natives  call  them  pdjaro  de  Jesu- 
cristo,  because  they  can  "walk  on  the  water." 

Several  species  of  flycatchers  and  large,  noisy  wrens 
(Donacobia)  lived  in  the  partly  submerged  bushes;  we  found 
several  of  the  bulky,  domed  grass  nests  of  the  former,  but 
it  was  almost  invariably  impossible  to  reach  them  as  they 
always  harbored  colonies  of  biting  ants,  which  rushed  out 
in  maddened  frenzy  when  the  nest  was  touched;  however, 
the  birds  and  ants  seemed  to  live  in  perfect  harmony. 

In  the  tangles  of  tall  bamboo  growing  on  the  bank  and 
drooping  out  over  the  water  lived  flocks  of  hoatzins  and 
numbers  of  several  species  of  dendrocolaptine  birds  or  wood- 
hewers;  also  an  occasional  water-turkey  and  cormorant. 
Many  black-and-white  ibises  soared  above  in  circles  and 
at  a  great  height;  they  acted  not  unlike  vultures,  but  the 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS  299 

long,  outstretched  neck  and  legs  immediately  gave  a  clew 
to  their  identity. 

The  forest  was  full  of  surprises.  One  morning  my  com- 
panion encountered  a  tamandua"  ant-eater  which  was  on 
the  ground,  and  refused  to  realize  that  the  close  proximity 
of  man  meant  danger;  he  was  but  lightly  armed,  and  shot 
the  tough,  thick-skinned  animal  with  the  32-bore  auxiliary 
tube  of  his  shotgun,  and  number  12  shot — an  unheard-of 
feat. 

It  was,  however,  not  always  necessary  to  go  into  the 
forest  to  hunt;  the  open  plot  in  which  the  settlement  lay 
attracted  many  birds,  such  as  scarlet  tanagers,  vermilion  fly- 
catchers, swallows,  and  others,  which  were  never  found  in 
the  forest,  and  small  mammals  in  abundance  lived  in  the 
houses.  We  frequently  caught  five  species  of  rats  in  a 
single  house  in  one  night,  and  at  least  two  species  of  bats 
lived  in  the  palm-leaf  thatch  of  the  roof.  Some  of  the  ro- 
dents, particularly  a  large,  spiny  rat,  lived  under  the  floor, 
while  others  made  the  walls  and  ceiling  their  homes;  each 
species  seemed  to  adhere  more  or  less  to  its  own  part  of  the 
dwelling,  thus  dividing  the  houses  into  well-defined  "  life- 


zones." 


The  natives  are  very  fond  of  the  flesh  of  the  spiny  rat 
and  often  begged  for  any  which  chanced  to  come  to  our 
traps. 

Ocelots  were  not  wanting  in  the  neighborhood;  they  vis- 
ited the  hen-houses  occasionally  at  night,  but  never  entered 
by  the  doors,  preferring  to  tear  holes  in  the  side  of  the 
structures;  they  killed  a  large  number  of  fowls,  on  one 
occasion  nearly  twenty  on  a  single  visit,  and  prompted 
apparently  by  the  mere  lust  for  killing. 

At  night  vampire-bats  came  out  in  hordes;  they  attacked 
everything  from  human  beings  on  down;  even  the  few 
miserable  pigs  kept  by  the  Indians  were  severely  bitten 
and  kept  up  a  continuous  squealing  as  the  bloodthirsty 
creatures  settled  on  them,  usually  at  the  base  of  the  ears, 
and  began  their  painful  operations.  The  worst  sufferers 


300  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

by  far,  however,  were  our  mules.  As  soon  as  the  sun  set 
our  peons  brought  the  animals  to  the  corral  and  strapped 
canvas  covers  over  them;  this  precaution  was  of  little  avail, 
for  the  bats  attacked  all  exposed  parts,  causing  the  mules 
to  kick  and  roll,  with  the  result  that  their  covers  were  soon 
torn  off.  We  went  out  frequently  to  watch  these  obnoxious 
creatures  at  work;  after  circling  above  their  prospective 
victim  a  few  times,  they  dropped  suddenly,  usually  upon 
the  neck  or  flanks,  and  at  once  began  to  bite  and  suck, 
making  a  grating  sound  with  the  teeth  all  the  while.  They 
paid  no  attention  to  us,  although  we  stood  but  a  few  feet 
away,  but  clung  with  folded  wings  to  their  prey,  perfectly 
motionless  and  in  an  upright  position;  if  we  moved  they 
uttered  a  few  squeaks,  but  made  no  attempt  to  fly  until  we 
reached  for  them  and  came  to  within  a  few  inches,  when 
they  reluctantly  fluttered  up,  but  almost  immediately  set- 
tled on  the  other  side  of  the  animal.  Desiring  specimens 
of  them  for  our  collection,  we  went  one  night  to  the  corral 
armed  with  a  butterfly-net  and,  approaching  one  of  the 
mules  on  whose  back  were  a  dozen  or  more  bats,  made  a 
hurried  sweep  with  the  net;  as  the  large,  white  bag  of  net- 
ting scraped  the  back  of  the  nervous  animal  he  sank  to  his 
knees  with  a  groan  of  despair,  wondering,  no  doubt,  what 
new  monster  had  swooped  down  upon  him  to  add  fresh 
suffering  to  his  already  unbearable  existence. 

In  the  morning  the  mules  were  in  a  pathetic  condition; 
blood  continued  to  flow  from  the  wounds  made  by  the 
bats'  sharp  teeth,  so  that  the  ground  was  red  and  the  ani- 
mals were  covered  from  head  to  foot.  It  was  always  nec- 
essary to  take  them  to  the  river  and  wash  them,  then  dis- 
infect the  numerous  punctures;  if  this  is  not  done  flies 
attack  the  sore  spots,  infesting  them  with  their  larvae,  and 
the  animals  die  of  blood-poison.  After  three  nights  we 
were  compelled  to  start  the  mules  back  to  Cochabamba,  as 
they  were  on  the  verge  of  exhaustion. 

While  at  Todos  Santos  we  learned  of  a  mission  among 
the  Yuracare  Indians  about  twelve  miles  distant,  and  near 


Vampire-bat  from  Todos  Santos. 


Tamandua  ant-eater. 


CROSSING  THE  BOLIVIAN  HIGHLANDS  301 

the  Rio  Chimore*.  We  expressed  a  desire  to  visit  it,  but 
the  intendente  told  us  that  such  a  move  was  impossible. 
He  said  that  the  priest  in  charge  of  the  mission  was  abso- 
lute monarch  of  the  territory  under  his  control;  that  he 
would  permit  no  one  to  come  near  his  retreat,  and  that  this 
mandate  had  never  been  disobeyed.  Such  statements 
made  the  place  seem  of  especial  interest  to  us,  and  we  were 
eager  to  go  there  at  almost  any  cost;  we  devised  many 
plans  which  we  hoped  would  lead  to  an  interview  with  the 
priest,  but  all  of  them  failed  miserably;  finally,  however, 
the  opportunity  came  to  us  in  an  unlooked-for  manner.  A 
misfortune  to  one  person  frequently  comes  in  the  guise  of  a 
blessing  to  another,  and  so  it  happened  in  this  instance. 
As  we  were  pursuing  our  work  one  afternoon  in  the  open 
corridor  in  front  of  our  room,  a  long  canoe  drew  up  at  the 
river-bank,  and  the  priest,  followed  by  a  dozen  Indians, 
stepped  ashore  and  marched  across  the  clearing  to  the  in- 
tendente's  quarters.  We  immediately  recognized  him  as 
Padre  Fulgencio,  the  missionary  of  whose  despotic  rule  we 
had  heard  so  much;  but  he  did  not  even  glance  at  us  as  he 
passed.  While  debating  upon  some  diplomatic  move  which 
might  serve  as  an  excuse  for  an  interview,  for  now  or  never 
was  the  time  to  obtain  the  coveted  permission,  he  suddenly 
emerged  from  the  house  and  came  straight  to  us.  A  few 
curt  remarks  were  exchanged,  and  then  he  began  to  relate 
his  trouble.  To  make  a  long  story  short,  he  was  suffering 
from  a  severe  toothache;  it  had  kept  him  awake  many 
nights,  and  at  last  he  was  forced  to  come  out  of  his  retreat 
in  search  of  a  remedy.  The  intendente  could  do  nothing 
for  him;  could  we? 

How  I  thanked  my  lucky  star  for  a  limited  knowledge  of 
medicine!  After  an  examination,  conducted  with  much 
formality,  the  trouble  was  pronounced  curable.  He  sub- 
mitted bravely  to  the  injection  of  cocaine,  and  soon  after 
was  relieved  of  the  aching  member.  Tears  rolled  down  his 
cheeks  as  he  expressed  his  gratitude,  and  then,  taking  note 
of  the  work  upon  which  we  were  engaged,  he  suddenly 


302  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

asked:  "Why  don't  you  come  to  the  mission;  I  have  four 
hundred  Indians  who  spend  several  days  each  week  in 
hunting,  and  they  can  take  you  anywhere,  and  also  bring 
you  all  kinds  of  animals." 

We  needed  no  urging,  and  within  five  minutes  the  day 
was  set  when  porters  in  abundance  should  come  to  convey 
our  equipment,  and  we  should  start  on  our  journey  to  the 
mysterious  stronghold  of  Padre  Fulgencio,  and  the  bound- 
less jungles  bordering  the  Rio  Chimore. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

AMONG   THE   YURACARE   INDIANS   OF   THE   RIO 
CHIMORE 

TRUE  to  his  promise,  Padre  Fulgencio  sent  the  Indians  to 
Todos  Santos,  and  on  the  morning  of  August  2  we  packed 
into  canoes  such  of  our  equipment  as  was  necessary  for  the 
trip  and  started  across  the  brown  water  of  the  Chapare. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  river  there  was  no  clearing;  the 
trees  grew  down  to  the  water's  edge,  and  the  moment  the 
canoes  were  left  behind  we  plunged  into  the  perpetual  gloom 
of  the  forest. 

An  indistinct  trail  led  into  the  heart  of  the  jungle.  The 
Indians  adjusted  our  belongings  on  their  backs,  securing 
them  with  broad  strips  of  bark  placed  across  the  forehead; 
then  they  set  out  at  a  good  pace,  a  number  of  women  and 
children  carrying  boiled  yuccas  and  plantains,  trudging  at 
the  rear  of  the  procession. 

There  was  not  much  undergrowth,  but  the  ground,  from 
which  there  is  little  evaporation  on  account  of  the  dense 
canopy  overhead,  was  very  muddy.  Every  few  rods  we 
came  to  a  deep  streamlet  which  had  to  be  crossed  on  the 
trunks  of  fallen  trees;  some  of  these  slimy  bridges  were 
sixty  feet  long  and  almost  impassable  to  us,  but  the  Indians 
strode  across  as  unconcernedly  as  geckos.  Half-way  to  the 
mission  the  Indians  stopped  for  lunch  and  a  short  rest,  and 
by  noon  we  reached  the  edge  of  the  clearing,  having  covered 
a  distance  of  twelve  miles. 

After  a  tramp  of  half  a  mile  through  weedy  fields  of 
maize  and  yuccas,  we  reached  the  mission-buildings — a  few 
dozen  low  grass  huts  clustering  around  an  open  square. 
At  one  end  rose  two  structures  of  large  size  which  served 
as  the  church  and  general  meeting-place.  Near  the  centre 

303 


304  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

of  the  clearing  a  stately  cross  had  been  erected,  hewn  from 
the  heart  of  a  giant  ceiba. 

The  priest  was  delighted  to  see  us  and  spared  no  effort 
to  make  us  comfortable.  We  were  soon  installed  in  a  room 
of  one  of  the  buildings  which  served  as  a  boys'  dormitory, 
and  a  short  time  later  started  out  to  inspect  our  surround- 
ings. 

At  first  the  Indians  were  reticent  and  would  peer  at  us 
from  a  distance.  This  was  true  particularly  of  the  chil- 
dren, but  as  the  days  wore  on  we  made  friends  with  them, 
and  from  both  the  people  themselves  and  the  priest  we 
learned  a  great  deal  about  their  history  and  habits. 

The  name  Yuracare,  according  to  D'Orbigny,  was  given 
to  them  by  the  Quechuas,  and  means  "white  man";  this  is 
most  inappropriate,  as  they  are  of  a  decided  brown  color, 
although  perhaps  averaging  lighter  than  the  Quechuas. 
They  were  first  discovered  by  Viedma  in  1768. 

At  the  present  time,  at  least,  the  Yuracare*s  are  a  people 
of  the  hot,  humid  lowlands.  Those  who  have  not  been 
captured  and  brought  to  the  missions,  or  who  escaped  the 
unenviable  fate  of  having  been  taken  from  their  forest  home 
by  private  "slaving  expeditions,"  live  along  the  smaller 
branches  of  the  streams,  which  eventually  find  their  way 
into  the  Mamore;  this  includes  particularly  the  Chapare, 
Chimore,  the  Ichilo,  and  the  Isiboro. 

There  were  about  four  hundred  Indians  residing  at  the 
mission.  Although  attempts  have  been  made  intermittently 
to  civilize  these  people  for  more  than  a  hundred  years, 
there  were  long  intervals  when  the  work  had  to  be  aban- 
doned, and  the  families  naturally  returned  to  their  homes 
in  the  wilderness.  Nearly  all  of  the  present  aggregation 
had  been  brought  together  during  the  last  few  years.  New- 
comers are  added  to  their  number  frequently.  The  priest, 
learning  of  other  families  far  up  some  unmapped  quebrada 
or  streamlet,  takes  a  few  of  the  men  who  have  learned  to 
place  confidence  in  him  and  whom  he  trusts,  and  starts 
forth  on  long  canoe  voyages  in  search  of  them.  They  ap- 


AMONG  THE  YURACARfi  INDIANS  305 

proach  the  hidden  dwelling  suddenly,  surround  it,  and 
persuade  the  occupants  to  accompany  them  immediately, 
giving  them  only  an  hour  or  two  in  which  to  collect  their 
few  belongings.  Occasionally  the  Indians  whom  they  seek 
learn  of  the  approach  of  the  emissaries  and  hide  before  their 
arrival;  then  the  priest  returns  to  the  mission,  his  long  trip 
having  been  made  to  no  purpose.  When,  should  the  expe- 
dition prove  to  be  successful,  the  families  have  departed 
to  the  waiting  canoes,  their  huts  are  burned  and  the  plan- 
tations destroyed.  Knowing  that  neither  home  nor  food 
have  been  left  behind,  they  are  not  so  apt  to  run  away 
from  their  new  quarters  and  go  back  to  their  old  dwelling- 
places.  I  heard  of  no  instance  where  they  resisted  this 
deportation. 

The  Yuracares  are  a  tall,  well-built  people  of  a  rather 
docile  disposition;  however,  the  older  generation  never 
wholly  becomes  reconciled  to  the  new  mode  of  life,  and  re- 
mains at  the  mission  only  for  reasons  which  I  will  explain 
later. 

In  their  wild  state  they  live  in  small  family  parties,  ob- 
taining their  subsistence  from  the  forest,  which  abounds  in 
game,  and  from  their  fields  of  yuccas.  Their  native  costume, 
a  long,  shirt-like  garment  called  tipoy,  is  made  from  the 
fibrous  bark  of  a  tree;  at  the  mission  this  has  largely 
been  replaced  by  cotton  clothes.  Each  family  has  been 
provided  with  a  separate  hut  of  adequate  size,  where  the 
parents  and  very  small  children  live.  The  boys  and  girls 
over  five  or  six  years  of  age  are  under  the  constant  super- 
vision of  the  priest,  and  attend  his  classes;  at  night  they 
sleep  in  separate  locked  dormitories,  which  prevents  their 
returning  to  their  homes,  and  also  keeps  the  parents  from 
running  away,  as  they  will  not  leave  without  their  children. 

Padre  Fulgencio  also  explained  that  this  kept  them  from 
observing  and  copying  the  customs  of  their  elders.  He 
recognizes  the  impossibility  of  reclaiming  the  forest-reared 
savage,  and  devotes  practically  all  his  efforts  to  the  younger 
generation. 


306  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  Indians  marry  at  an  early  age,  the  boys  at  sixteen 
and  the  girls  at  fourteen.  In  their  wild  state  each  family 
rears  four  or  five  children;  at  the  mission  never  more  than 
two,  and  frequently  none  at  all.  Should  the  first-born  be 
a  girl,  she  is  permitted  slowly  to  starve  to  death.  The 
priest  has  inflicted  severe  punishment  upon  them  in  his 
efforts  to  break  this  custom,  but  so  far  all  his  work  has 
been  in  vain. 

As  far  as  possible  they  are  discouraged  in  the  celebration 
of  their  native  festivals,  but  it  frequently  occurs  that  the 
entire  populace  appear  with  faces  gayly  decorated  with 
black  and  blue  dots,  and  all  join  in  weird  songs  and  dances, 
the  purpose  of  which  remains  a  secret,  as  they  cannot  be 
induced  to  tell.  They  worship  no  divinity,  being  in  this 
respect  in  a  class  almost  by  themselves. 

Food  at  the  mission  is  abundant.  The  clearing  comprises 
several  hundred  acres  and  is  planted  in  maize,  rice,  yuccas, 
plantains,  and  sweet  potatoes.  Like  most  savages,  they 
have  an  intoxicating  drink,  made  of  the  boiled  root  of  the 
yucca.  The  women  dig  great  quantities  of  it,  peel  and  thor- 
oughly cook  it,  after  which  a  certain  per  cent  is  chewed 
and  expectorated  into  a  huge  earthenware  jar;  the  remain- 
der is  mashed  and  thrown  in  also,  and  water  added.  The 
following  day  fermentation  has  started  and  the  greenish 
yellow  liquid  is  ready  for  use. 

At  the  mission  the  Indians  have  learned  the  use  of  salt, 
and  this  fact  perhaps  as  much  as  any  induces  them  to  re- 
main, for  deprived  of  it  they  cannot  long  exist.  A  small 
amount  is  given  to  each  individual  at  stated  periods — only 
just  enough  to  supply  his  wants  until  time  for  the  next 
distribution.  There  are  instances  on  record  where  families 
have  escaped  and  gone  back  to  their  nomadic  life  for  eight- 
een months,  then  returned  voluntarily  to  promise  future 
obedience,  so  great  was  their  craving  for  salt. 

The  rites  attending  the  death  and  burial  of  a  man  are 
among  the  curious  and  persisting  ceremonies  of  the  Yura- 
cares.  When  the  husband  dies  the  wife  removes  all  her 


Yuracares  chewing  yucca-roots  for  making  casire. 


Yuracare  women  and  children. 


AMONG  THE  YURACARE  INDIANS  307 

wearing  apparel  and  casts  herself  upon  his  body,  where  she 
remains  weeping  and  lamenting  until  the  time  of  the  funeral, 
which  is  a  day  or  two  later.  All  the  women  squat  in  a 
circle  around  the  deceased,  raise  their  voices  in  sorrowful 
wails,  and  recount  the  heroic  deeds  and  good  characteris- 
tics of  the  dead.  The  men  drink  casire  and  dig  a  deep  hole 
in  the  ground;  when  the  time  for  the  burial  arrives  the 
body  is  carefully  deposited  therein,  together  with  all  his 
possessions,  and  the  wife's  clothing  is  placed  on  top,  after 
which  the  earth  is  thrown  in. 

The  weapons  of  this  tribe  consist  entirely  of  bows  made 
of  c/icwto-palm  wood,  five  or  six  feet  high,  and  various 
kinds  of  arrows.  The  shaft  of  the  latter  is  always  com- 
posed of  slender  bamboo,  but  the  points  vary  greatly;  thus 
for  large  game  there  is  a  long  double-edged  blade  of  another 
variety  of  bamboo;  slender,  barbed  points  of  chonta  are 
used  for  birds,  and  a  long,  sharp  spike  of  palm-wood  for 
fish.  They  are  wholly  ignorant  of  the  use  of  the  deadly 
curare  poison. 

We  were  fortunate  in  timing  our  visit  to  the  Chimore 
for  the  dry  season.  Additions  were  being  made  to  the 
already  large  areas  under  cultivation,  and  for  this  purpose 
the  Indians  were  cutting  down  forest.  They  were  required 
to  work  four  days  each  week,  the  remaining  three  being 
devoted  to  fishing  and  hunting.  All  the  men  and  boys 
participated  in  this  work  and  seemed  to  enjoy  it  thoroughly. 
At  first  the  undergrowth  was  removed;  this  naturally  led 
to  the  discovery  of  many  strange  animals,  all  of  which 
were  promptly  brought  to  us  for  examination.  The  num- 
ber and  variety  of  snakes  was  astonishing;  even  after  hav- 
ing spent  years  in  a  similar  type  of  country,  I  had  never 
suspected  that  so  many  existed,  which  shows  how  incon- 
spicuous they  are  until  one  actually  goes  over  the  ground 
with  a  comb,  as  it  were.  They  captured  green  boas,  several 
species  of  the  fer-de-lance,  and  many  others  which  we  did 
not  recognize.  Some  of  them  were  poisonous,  and  others 
were  innocuous.  Among  the  former  was  one  which  in  ap- 


308  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

pearance  closely  resembled  the  green  boa,  but  its  attitude 
was  defiant  and  even  aggressive;  examination  showed  that 
it  possessed  long  fangs.  One  day  several  of  the  men  came 
running  into  our  room  and  shouted  "Pisisi."  We  followed 
them  to  the  clearing,  and  found  that  they  had  discovered  a 
huge  bushmaster  coiled  under  a  log.  They  tried  to  drive 
the  reptile  out  with  long  poles,  but  it  refused  to  move; 
finally  the  priest  pulled  the  enormous  creature  bodily  from 
its  hiding-place  with  the  aid  of  a  hooked  stick;  it  was  very 
sluggish  and  made  no  attempt  to  strike.  After  shooting 
it  we  found  that  it  measured  nearly  seven  feet  in  length, 
with  a  diameter  of  five  inches.  The  fangs,  over  an  inch 
long,  emitted  about  a  tablespoonful  of  yellowish  poison. 

The  bushmaster,  called  surucucu  in  Brazil,  is  truly  a  ter- 
rible creature.  It  grows  to  a  length  of  ten  feet  or  more, 
and  attains  a  great  thickness.  A  snake  of  that  size  has  fangs 
an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  injects  nearly  a  tablespoonful 
of  poison  at  a  single  thrust.  The  ground-color  is  reddish 
yellow  crossed  by  black  bands,  sometimes  forming  a  series 
of  X's  along  the  back.  It  does  not  take  kindly  to  captivity 
and  dies  of  starvation  after  a  few  months  of  confinement. 
It  is  one  of  the  few  snakes  which  are  supposed  to  incubate 
their  eggs.  After  selecting  a  hole  in  the  ground  or  in  a 
stump  the  reptile  lays  a  dozen  or  more  eggs;  then  it  coils 
up  on  top  of  them  and  does  not  leave  the  vicinity  until 
they  hatch;  at  such  times  it  is  very  irritable,  and  will  strike 
with  deadly  results  any  creature  which  disturbs  it.  The 
poison  acts  rapidly,  and  I  heard  of  a  case  where  an  Indian 
died  in  less  than  half  an  hour  after  having  been  bitten. 

There  were  also  small  brown  salamanders  and  lizards 
with  spiny  backs  that  resembled  horned  toads.  Perhaps 
the  rarest  catch  of  all  was  a  splendid  example  of  the  curious 
cane-rat  (Dactylomys) ,  an  animal  seldom  encountered  on 
account  of  its  rarity  and  secretive  habits.  It  resembles  a 
large  rat,  being  twenty-five  inches  long,  and  of  a  dark-gray 
color;  the  toes  are  divided  into  pairs  in  order  to  enable  it 
to  easily  climb  slender  stalks,  and  instead  of  claws  it  has 


AMONG  THE  YURACARE  INDIANS  309 

nails.  The  pupils  of  the  eyes  are  elliptical,  like  a  cat's; 
when  annoyed  it  uttered  a  hoarse  scream,  a  sound  occasion- 
ally heard  at  night,  but  which  we  did  not  heretofore  recog- 
nize. 

After  the  brush  had  been  removed  for  the  distance  of  a 
hundred  yards  or  more  from  the  edge  of  the  clearing,  the 
Indians  began  to  cut  down  the  trees;  some  of  these  were 
of  enormous  size,  especially  the  ceibas;  one  that  I  measured 
was  twenty-five  feet  through  the  base,  counting  the  sup- 
porting, bracket-like  roots,  and  fifteen  men  hacked  at  it 
at  the  same  time.  When  the  tree  fell  they  set  up  a  wild 
cheering  and  took  great  delight  in  watching  this  monarch 
of  the  forest  tumble  to  the  ground. 

Three  days  of  each  week  were  devoted  to  hunting  and 
fishing.  Usually  the  Indians  went  many  miles  away,  in 
small  parties,  returning  promptly  at  the  expiration  of  their 
time.  The  children  rarely  accompanied  them,  and  then 
only  after  having  obtained  special  permission  from  the 
priest.  Upon  their  return  they  brought  baskets  of  fish 
and  meat — enough  to  last  them  until  their  next  journey 
into  the  wilds.  Nearly  all  fish  and  game  were  taken  with 
bow  and  arrow.  To  secure  the  former  they  selected  a 
small  creek  up  the  shallow  water  of  which  huge  shoals  of 
fish  went  to  feed,  and  then  shot  them.  After  a  sufficient 
supply  had  been  obtained  they  erected  a  framework  of 
sticks,  built  a  fire  under  it  and  slowly  roasted  and  smoked 
them;  later  they  were  packed  in  baskets  between  layers  of 
green  leaves  and  taken  home.  They  also  brought  numbers 
of  freshly  killed  animals  for  our  examination,  for  in  keeping 
with  his  promise  Padre  Fulgencio  had  announced  from  the 
pulpit  that  all  creatures  taken  by  them  were  to  be  shown 
to  us  first,  and  we  were  permitted  to  select  any  that  were 
of  scientific  value.  In  this  manner  a  number  of  animals 
new  to  us  were  added  to  the  collection. 

The  curl-breasted  toucan  (Beauharnaisia)  is  one  of  those 
birds  of  the  Amazonian  basin  which  is  seldom  seen  by  trav- 
ellers; or  even  naturalists,  who  make  every  effort  to  learn 


310  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

something  of  its  habits.  Bates  records  having  seen  a  number 
during  his  eleven  years  of  exploration,  and  on  one  occa- 
sion he  was  attacked  by  a  flock  after  he  had  wounded  one 
of  them.  We  therefore  considered  it  an  unusually  good 
streak  of  fortune  to  find  a  large  flock  inhabiting  a  section 
of  the  forest  several  miles  from  the  mission.  They  were 
wary,  nervous  creatures,  and  spent  their  time  in  the  top 
of  tall  trees  from  which  one  of  our  men  succeeded  in  shoot- 
ing several  with  arrows  before  the  remainder  took  alarm 
and  flew  away;  they  never  returned  to  the  locality.  The 
bird  is  black  above,  with  yellow  underparts  barred  with 
black;  the  feathers  on  the  top  of  the  head  are  flattened  and 
curled,  resembling  shining  scales,  and  are  drawn  together 
to  form  a  ridge.  On  the  throat  and  breast  the  brilliant 
yellow  feathers  are  tipped  with  glossy  black  dots,  resem- 
bling beads  of  jet.  Unfortunately  they  were  not  nesting, 
but  the  Indians  reported  having  found  the  two  white  eggs 
in  cavities  in  the  taller  trees.  Another  bird  not  frequently 
encountered  is  the  giant  frogmouth  (Nyctibius),  which, 
while  not  so  rare,  perhaps,  is  seldom  seen,  as  it  is  nocturnal 
in  habits  and  spends  the  days  squatting  horizontally  upon 
some  thick  branch,  where  it  resembles  a  gray  lichen,  or  is 
altogether  invisible.  When  the  time  for  domestic  cares 
arrives  the  bird  lays  a  single  white  egg  on  the  branch  which 
has  served  as  its  perch,  or  at  the  junction  of  a  limb  and  the 
tree-trunk,  without  making  any  sort  of  a  nest.  Doubtless 
many  eggs  roll  off  this  precarious  location  and  are  broken. 
It  feeds  upon  beetles  and  insects  which  are  caught  on  the 
wing,  and  some  observers  say  that  it  also  catches  small 
birds;  this  latter  I  am  inclined  to  question.  One  individual 
that  we  collected  was  twenty-two  inches  long,  with  an  ex- 
panse of  wings  of  thirty  inches.  The  mouth  when  opened 
measured  five  inches  from  tip  to  tip  of  the  bill,  and  was 
three  inches  wide;  but  the  oesophagus  was  less  than  half 
an  inch  in  diameter,  which  would  prevent  it  from  swallow- 
ing anything  larger  than  a  humming-bird. 
The  nights  at  the  mission  were  always  pleasant.  The 


AMONG  THE  YURACARfi  INDIANS  311 

priest  usually  conducted  a  short  service  in  the  chapel,  and 
then  we  sat  in  front  of  his  hut  for  an  hour's  chat,  while 
the  children  romped  and  played  before  being  sent  to  bed. 
Sometimes  one  of  the  boys  brought  out  a  queer  drum;  the 
ends  were  made  of  skin  taken  from  the  neck  of  a  jabiru 
stork.  He  beat  it  in  slow  rhythm,  swaying  his  head  from 
side  to  side  with  each  low  thud.  The  girls  placed  their 
arms  around  one  another's  waists,  forming  lines  of  threes, 
and  shuffled  forward  three  steps  and  back,  swinging  their 
bodies  all  the  while;  suddenly  they  would  whirl  around 
once,  take  hold  of  one  another's  hands,  and  then  the  long 
line  swept  around  at  such  a  rapid  pace  that  the  individuals 
at  the  ends  invariably  went  sprawling  some  distance  away. 
After  tiring  of  this  or  any  other  pastime  upon  which  they  were 
engaged,  they  lined  up  and  said  a  "Buenas  noches,  Padre," 
in  chorus.  Then  they  ran  away  to  the  sleeping  quarters. 

After  spending  nearly  two  weeks  at  the  mission  we.  ac- 
cepted the  priest's  invitation  to  accompany  him  on  a  short 
trip  down  the  Chimore.  Twenty  young  men  and  boys 
were  selected  as  paddlers;  they  started  early  one  morn- 
ing, taking  all  of  our  personal  luggage  with  them;  a  large 
number  of  girls  and  women  followed  soon  after,  carrying 
baskets  of  plantains,  yuccas,  and  other  provisions.  The 
missionary,  Boyle,  and  I  brought  up  the  rear,  and  en- 
couraged the  few  stragglers  we  met  on  the  way,  for  the 
distance  from  the  mission  to  the  river  is  three  miles,  through 
the  virgin  forest. 

The  Chimore  is  of  about  the  same  width  as  the  Chapare, 
although  the  water  is  in  normal  times  somewhat  clearer. 
It  rises  far  to  the  south  and  is  formed  by  the  junction  of 
the  Blanco  and  Icona.  Some  distance  below  it  unites  with 
the  waters  of  the  Ichilo,  a  mighty  river  flowing  from  the 
south,  through  a  solitary  and  unknown  wilderness,  and  up 
which  Padre  Fulgencio  had  ascended  a  number  of  miles  on 
a  previous  trip.  In  latitude  15°  30'  South,  the  Ichilo  and 
Chapare  join,  and  form  the  Rio  Mamorecillo,  which  lower 
in  its  course  is  known  as  the  Mamore. 


312  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  meaning  of  Mamore*,  which  is  a  Yuracare  word,  is 
"mother  of  the  human  race."  They  have  a  legend  to  the 
effect  that  far  away,  at  the  source  of  the  Sajta,  which  is  the 
beginning  of  the  furthermost  tributary  of  the  mighty  river, 
there  are  three  rocks  of  pyramidal  shape  that  rise  in  ter- 
races, one  above  the  other,  and  in  the  heart  of  which  the 
stream  rises.  In  the  very  beginning  of  things  this  rock 
gave  birth  to  the  first  people,  for  which  reason  it  is  called 
"Mamore."  Later  the  name  was  also  given  to  the  river 
because  its  water,  teeming  with  fish,  supplied  them  with 
food  and  offered  an  easy  highway  for  the  dissemination  of 
the  race. 

Arrived  at  the  point  of  embarkation,  the  men  began  to 
load  the  five  canoes  which  were  waiting,  and  the  women 
built  a  fire  and  cooked  lunch.  In  a  short  time  everything 
was  ready  and  the  canoes  moved  easily  down-stream.  The 
paddlers  were  adepts  at  their  work,  and  as  a  good  deal  of 
rivalry  existed  between  the  different  crews,  they  kept  up 
an  almost  continuous  race,  with  the  natural  consequence 
that  we  made  good  time.  The  scenery  along  the  Chimore 
is  exactly  like  that  on  the  upper  courses  of  the  many  rivers 
of  tropical  South  America;  there  is  the  same  monotony  of 
the  yellow  water  highway,  flanked  by  walls  of  deepest 
green.  One  thing  that  impresses  the  traveller  as  much  as 
any  other  is  the  immensity  of  the  silent,  uninhabited  areas; 
and  also  their  comparative  worthlessness.  For  days  and 
even  weeks  one  may  enter  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  heart 
of  the  undefiled  wilderness,  and  see  always  the  same  dark 
forest,  the  hurrying,  mysterious  streams,  and  the  rafts  of 
low,  threatening  clouds;  hear  the  annoying  buzz  and  feel 
the  poisonous  sting  of  the  insect  swarms,  and  swelter  in  the 
humid,  enervating  climate.  The  greater  part  of  this  coun- 
try can  never  be  cultivated  to  any  extent,  as  the  annual 
floods  cover  it  to  a  depth  of  many  feet;  there  are  very  few 
eminences  safe  from  the  inundations,  and  these  are  of 
inconsiderable  size.  The  person  who  pictures  the  un- 
trodden tropics  as  a  paradise  of  fruits  and  flowers,  teeming 


AMONG  THE  YURACARE  INDIANS  313 

with  gorgeous-colored  creatures  and  inhabited  by  tribes  of 
gracious  Indians  whose  one  desire  in  life  is  to  serve  the 
traveller  or  explorer,  has  yet  to  cut  his  eye-teeth  in  the  field 
of  exploration. 

Our  Indians  were  all  well  armed  and  frequently  took 
long  shots  at  some  of  the  creatures  that  ventured  to  show 
themselves  in  the  early  mornings  or  just  before  dark. 
They  were  expert  archers  and  even  shot  large  birds  on  the 
wing  as  the  flocks  passed  overhead.  Occasionally  an  otter 
appeared,  always  a  hundred  yards  or  more  away,  swim- 
ming rapidly  with  only  the  head  showing  above  the  water. 
These  animals  were  favorite  targets,  and  from  my  seat  in 
the  middle  of  the  canoe  I  had  an  unobstructed  view  of  the 
arrows  in  flight  as  they  left  the  bow  of  the  man  in  front;  he 
did  not  aim  at  his  prey,  but  quite  some  distance  above  it. 
At  the  twang  of  the  bow  the  arrow  sped  into  the  air,  ascend- 
ing slightly  at  first,  and  then  dropping  as  it  approached 
the  mark;  it  described  a  curve  exactly  like  a  bullet  fired 
from  a  rifle,  and  remained  in  a  perfectly  horizontal  posi- 
tion during  the  entire  flight. 

When  making  camp  on  a  sand-bank  the  Indians  stuck 
their  bows  and  arrows  in  the  ground,  near  the  shelters;  this 
prevented  their  being  stepped  on  and  broken.  In  damp  or 
rainy  weather  the  arrows  warped  badly,  but  it  was  only  a 
few  minutes'  work  to  heat  them  near  a  fire  and  bend  them 
back  into  alignment. 

Tropical  rivers  are  noted  for  their  treachery.  One  can 
never  be  certain  of  their  actions  or  character,  even  a  few 
hours  hence.  We  had  a  striking  example  of  this  on  the 
Chimore*.  Camp  had  been  made  on  an  extensive  sand- 
bank one  day  at  noon,  as  we  planned  to  spend  a  few  hours 
hunting  and  fishing  in  the  neighborhood.  The  sun  shone 
brightly  and  there  was  nothing  to  indicate  a  change  of  con- 
ditions in  any  manner  whatever;  but  scarcely  had  the 
canoes  been  unloaded  and  a  fire  built  over  which  we  in- 
tended to  do  the  cooking  when  we  were  startled  by  a  dull 
roar  that  grew  louder  with  each  passing  second;  before  we 


314  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

had  time  to  hurriedly  gather  our  belongings  and  throw 
them  into  the  canoes  a  foam-capped,  seething  wall  of 
water  was  upon  us,  sweeping  down  the  river  and  carrying 
away  everything  in  its  path.  As  the  tidal  wave,  several 
feet  high,  dashed  over  the  sand-bank,  the  imprisoned  air 
shot  up  from  the  great  cracks  and  rents  in  the  sun-baked 
earth,  and  set  the  raging  mass  of  muddy  water  to  hissing 
and  boiling.  In  a  few  minutes  only  the  higher  mounds  of 
sand  projected  above  the  roaring  inferno,  and  against  these 
hungry  tongues  of  water  lapped  greedily  until  their  bases 
were  undermined.  Then  the  whole  mass  crumbled  and 
disappeared  in  the  seething  flood.  Where  our  peaceful 
camp  had  stood  but  a  few  minutes  before  there  was  now  a 
sea  of  agitated  water.  The  explanation  of  this  phenome- 
non is  simple:  A  heavy  rain  had  fallen  in  the  mountains 
where  the  tributaries  of  the  river  rise,  and  the  torrent  of 
water  dashing  down  the  precipitous  slopes  had  rushed 
into  the  lowlands.  After  this  the  water  was  so  muddy 
that  it  was  unfit  for  use  without  special  preparation.  In 
order  to  secure  a  supply  for  drinking  and  cooking  we  boiled 
a  quantity  of  it;  the  sand  was  quickly  precipitated  to  the 
bottom  as  the  temperature  rose,  after  which  the  clear 
water  could  be  poured  off  the  top.  In  some  instances  the 
amount  of  solid  matter  carried  by  the  water  was  fully  50 
per  cent  of  the  total  volume. 

Animals  were  not  abundant  on  the  river-banks,  although 
we  saw  a  deer  or  a  small  flock  of  curassows  at  infrequent  in- 
tervals. If  we  went  into  the  forest  a  short  distance,  how- 
ever, we  were  sure  to  find  game  in  abundance.  On  one 
occasion  the  Indians  demonstrated  their  skill  at  calling  up 
monkeys.  A  large  troop  of  cebus  and  squirrel-monkeys 
were  feeding  in  the  tree-tops,  but  for  some  reason  the  men 
did  not  give  chase  as  they  usually  do;  they  concealed  them- 
selves in  the  thick  lower  growth  and  whistled  a  few  plain- 
tive kee-oows.  In  a  short  time  the  animals  began  to  evince 
a  great  deal  of  interest  or  curiosity,  and  many  of  them  de- 
scended to  the  lower  branches.  Then  the  hunters  shot  a 


AMONG  THE  YURACARE  INDIANS  315 

number  with  their  arrows  before  the  band  realized  what 
had  occurred  and  took  flight. 

Large  areas  covered  with  an  impenetrable  cane-jungle 
are  scattered  all  along  the  borders  of  the  Chimore.  The 
tall  stalks  rise  to  a  height  of  fifty  feet  or  more,  and  are 
beautiful  to  look  at,  but  impossible  to  penetrate  until  a 
trail  has  been  cleared  with  hatchet  or  machete.  The  plant 
resembles  the  well-known  sugar-cane  of  our  Southern  States, 
but  grows  much  taller,  and  the  stems  are  thin  and  hard.  A 
large,  white,  feathery  plume  crowns  each  stalk.  This  plant 
is  of  inestimable  value  to  the  natives.  The  long  poles  are 
used  almost  exclusively  in  constructing  their  dwellings, 
and  the  leaves  make  an  impervious  thatch.  Practically 
every  stalk  is  infested  with  thick  white  grubs  which  live 
in  the  pith.  These  are  extracted  by  the  Yuracares,  who 
call  them  chata,  and  used  for  bait  when  fishing.  Many 
runways  perforate  the  matted  growth;  these  have  been 
made  by  capybaras,  agoutis,  and  numerous  other  animals. 
Even  tapirs  seem  to  appreciate  the  protection  afforded  by 
the  thick  cover  and  resort  to  it  in  the  daytime,  while  jag- 
uars noiselessly  steal  along  the  paths  in  the  course  of  their 
nightly  prowls.  One  night  we  had  an  excellent  illustra- 
tion of  how  useful  the  cane-plant,  or  chuchilla,  as  the  In- 
dians call  it,  can  be  in  an  emergency.  We  had  landed  on  a 
sand-bank  rather  early  in  the  evening,  spurred  to  this  action 
by  rapidly  approaching  black  clouds,  flashes  of  lightning, 
and  the  rumbling  of  distant  thunder  which  bespoke  the 
arrival  of  a  tropical  rain-storm.  At  first  it  looked  as  if  we 
should  be  compelled  to  endure  a  thorough  drenching,  but 
Padre  Fulgencio  issued  a  few  orders  to  the  canoemen, 
and  they  hurried  away  to  neighboring  cane-brakes,  with 
machete  in  hand;  soon  they  returned,  dragging  an  immense 
quantity  of  the  plant;  four  of  the  strongest  poles  were  firmly 
planted  in  the  sand  to  form  a  square,  about  fifteen  feet 
apart,  and  the  tops  bent  over  and  tied  together  with  strips 
of  their  leaves.  These  served  as  the  corner  posts  of  a 
shelter.  Other  stalks  were  laid  across  the  top  to  form 


316  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

rafters,  and  firmly  tied.  The  men  then  piled  many  more 
on  top,  binding  each  one  to  the  rafter,  until  a  complete  hut 
had  been  built;  although  the  height  of  the  roof  was  fully 
eight  feet,  the  ragged  edges  came  down  to  the  ground, 
entirely  enclosing  the  sides  and  forming  a  snug  retreat 
against  which  the  elements  raged  without  avail.  After 
the  first  deluge  had  subsided  other  and  smaller  shelters 
were  built.  The  Indians  enjoyed  the  experience  thor- 
oughly; they  threw  aside  all  clothing,  built  fires  over  which 
fish  and  game  were  placed  to  roast,  and  squatted  around 
the  embers  in  a  circle,  doubtless  indulging  in  pleasant 
reminiscences  of  the  days  before  civilization  with  its  re- 
stricting influences,  and  had  come  into  their  care-free 
existence. 

Early  next  morning  we  were  awakened  by  the  reverberat- 
ing howls  of  monkeys.  The  Indians  rushed  in  a  body 
from  their  shelters  and,  snatching  up  bows  and  arrows, 
ran  in  pursuit.  A  troop  of  red  howlers  had  come  to  the 
chuchilla  near  our  shelters;  we  could  see  none  of  the  ani- 
mals, but  the  tops  of  the  canes  waving  as  if  agitated  by  a 
violent  gust  of  wind  told  us  of  their  whereabouts.  Soon  we 
heard  shouts  followed  by  the  twang  of  bows  and  the  snarl 
of  arrows  as  they  ripped  through  the  flesh  of  the  luckless 
victims.  This  continued  until  the  creatures  disappeared 
in  the  interior  of  the  dense  jungle,  and  then  the  hunters 
returned,  dragging  their  quarry  after  them.  We  were 
eager  to  continue  on  our  way,  but  in  view  of  the  efficient 
and  willing  service  rendered  by  the  men  the  night  before 
it  was  decided  to  wait  a  few  hours  and  permit  them  to 
have  a  feast.  A  huge  fire  was  built,  and  the  monkeys, 
after  having  been  skinned  and  washed,  were  set  on  spits 
to  roast.  The  Indians  crowded  around,  sang  and  shouted, 
and  tore  off  and  ate  chunks  of  the  half-roasted  flesh.  In  a 
short  time  our  orderly  Yuracares  had  returned  to  the  realms 
of  savagery,  and  were  indulging  in  a  performance  such  as  I 
had  repeatedly  seen  among  the  wild  Nhambiquaras  of 
Matto  Grosso. 


AMONG  THE  YURACARfi  INDIANS  317 

Lower  down  we  saw  numerous  islands,  some  of  large  size 
and  of  a  peculiar  formation.  The  river,  which  had  risen 
so  rapidly  a  few  days  before,  had  gone  down  to  its  normal 
level  and  left  these  obstructions  in  the  channel  exposed 
high  above  the  surface.  A  matted  mass  of  logs  and  branches 
of  which  a  layer  fifteen  feet  thick  protruded  above  the 
water,  formed  the  base  of  the  islands;  on  this  soil  had 
gathered  to  a  depth  of  five  or  six  feet,  and  supported  a 
luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation.  These  islands  are  com- 
posed of  deposits  of  driftwood  which  were  left  stranded  on 
sand-banks  during  the  season  of  high  water,  and  while  the 
edges  are  torn  and  jagged  the  force  of  succeeding  floods 
seems  to  be  of  insufficient  strength  to  wash  them  away. 
As  we  paddled  along  quietly  near  the  banks  the  priest  or 
the  Indians  pointed  out  many  interesting  and  curious 
plants.  One  of  these  is  the  palo  santo,  or  holy  tree;  it 
grows  to  be  a  great  height,  but  the  trunk  is  comparatively 
slender.  The  peculiar  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that 
it  is  as  carefully  guarded  as  any  sacred  object  should  be, 
but  in  this  instance  by  myriads  of  fire-ants,  which  live  in 
the  hollow  interior  of  the  trunk.  If  the  tree  is  struck 
sharply  with  a  stick  the  ants  pour  out  in  endless  files  through 
minute  openings.  They  are  vicious  insects,  and  the  bite 
smarts  and  burns  many  hours  after  it  is  inflicted.  The 
tacuara,  a  species  of  tall,  feathery  bamboo,  is  another  inter- 
esting plant  of  this  region.  When  the  stalk  is  cut  down  the 
leaves  shrivel  and  dry  within  a  few  minutes.  Large  num- 
bers of  cabbage-palms  grew  throughout  the  forest.  The 
beautiful,  plume-shaped  leaves  droop  in  a  great  umbrella- 
like  mass  from  the  top  of  a  column  sixty  or  seventy  feet  high; 
thick  clumps  of  straight,  tough  roots  branch  out  eight  or 
ten  feet  above  the  ground  and  form  a  solid  support  to  the 
stem.  A  delicious  salad  is  made  from  the  tender  leaves, 
folded  up  in  the  bud;  or  if  boiled  the  flavor  is  similar  to 
that  of  asparagus.  To  secure  the  bud  it  is,  of  course,  nec- 
essary to  cut  down  a  tree  which  has  taken  the  greater  part 
of  a  century  to  mature,  but  in  a  region  where  many  mil- 


318  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

lions  are  growing  one  is  not  inclined  to  be  sentimental, 
and  will  only  bemoan  the  fact  that  it  requires  an  hour's 
hard  work  to  chop  through  the  steel-like  trunk  before  the 
coveted  morsel  is  brought  down. 

The  country  between  the  Guapay  and  Ichilo  is  probably 
as  little  known  as  any  part  of  South  America.  This  strip 
of  land,  covering  approximately  five  thousand  square  miles, 
is  heavily  forested,  and  is  the  home  of  a  tribe  of  savages 
known  as  the  Sirionos.  Judging  from  the  accounts  given 
to  us  by  our  canoemen  and  the  priest,  they  must  be  a  ter- 
rible and  indomitable  race.  The  Yuracares  fear  them 
greatly,  and  as  we  neared  the  Ichilo  they  preferred  to  keep 
the  canoes  in  the  centre  of  the  river  and  seemed  reluctant 
to  land;  if  they  shot  at  an  animal  and  the  arrow  missed  its 
mark  and  dropped  in  the  forest  they  did  not  go  in  search 
of  it;  a  half -day  of  careful  work  is  needed  to  make  an  arrow, 
and  as  a  general  rule  Indians  are  very  particular  to  hunt 
for  any  they  may  lose;  but  in  this  instance  they  preferred 
the  loss  of  the  arrows  to  risking  their  skins  in  the  dense 
cover. 

There  were  four  Yuracares  at  the  mission,  one,  a  girl 
of  twelve  years,  who  bore  unsightly  scars — the  result  of 
having  been  ambushed  by  parties  of  the  Sirionos  tribe;  I 
was  also  told  that  occasionally  some  of  them  are  killed. 

The  Sirionos  seem  to  have  no  permanent  homes  and  cul- 
tivate the  ground  to  a  very  limited  extent,  if  at  all.  They 
are  a  tribe  of  wanderers,  and  roam  the  forest  in  small  par- 
ties, killing  game  for  food.  In  appearance  and  stature 
they  are  not  unlike  the  Guarayos,  but  in  temperament 
they  are  totally  different  and  have  successfully  resisted 
every  attempt  made  to  subdue  them.  Their  weapons  are 
bows  and  arrows,  the  former  of  great  height  and  so  power- 
ful that  they  cannot  be  drawn  with  the  arms  alone.  In 
order  to  shoot  the  Indian  throws  himself  on  his  back,  grasps 
the  bow  with  the  feet  and  draws  the  cord  with  both  hands; 
the  arrows,  of  which  the  priest  had  collected  a  number, 
are  seven  or  eight  feet  long  and  made  of  wild  cane  or  chu- 


AMONG  THE  YURACARfi  INDIANS  319 

chilla.  Apparently  they  are  unacquainted  with  the  use  of 
poison. 

Probably  the  Guarayos  suffer  more  at  the  hands  of  the 
Sirionos  than  the  Yuracares,  because  the  former  two  tribes 
come  in  contact  more  frequently.  Padre  Wolfgang,  in 
charge  of  one  of  the  missions  of  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra, 
was  on  one  occasion  attacked  and  several  of  his  men  were 
captured.  A  few  days  later  he  found  them  nailed  to  trees 
with  numerous  long  thorns.  On  another  occasion  he  sur- 
prised a  party  of  Sirionos  and  succeeded  in  capturing  seven; 
these  he  took  back  to  the  mission,  but  they  proved  to  be 
intractable.  He  found  it  necessary  to  tie  them  to  posts 
in  order  to  prevent  them  from  escaping.  They  steadily  re- 
fused food  and  water,  and  after  a  few  days  four  died  of 
starvation  and  sullenness.  The  priest  took  pity  on  the 
remaining  three  and  released  them. 

After  five  pleasant  days  crowded  with  interesting  and 
unusual  experiences  on  the  Chimore  we  returned  to  the 
mission  and  spent  a  few  days  there  packing  the  valuable 
zoological  collections.  We  then  went  back  to  our  base  on 
the  Chapare;  for  this  journey  we  decided  to  go  by  way  of 
the  Coni,  a  small  stream  emptying  into  the  Chapare,  a  few 
miles  above  Todos  Santos.  We  followed  a  path  through 
the  forest  for  a  distance  of  three  miles,  arriving  at  a  large 
clearing  which  was  planted  in  sugar-cane;  but  what  sur- 
prised us  greatly  was  the  fact  that  the  owner  was  a  Quechua, 
who  had  deserted  his  home  in  one  of  the  high  valleys  near 
Cochicancha,  and  had  come  to  live  in  the  hot  tropics.  He 
had  constructed  a  crude  wooden  mill  for  expressing  the 
juice  from  the  cane-stalks,  erected  a  still,  and  was  making 
alcohol.  We  had  gone  to  the  mission  with  the  intention 
of  remaining  a  week,  and  filled  with  many  misgivings  as  to 
the  outcome  of  our  visit;  but  the  good  missionary  had 
proved  to  be  one  of  the  most  kind-hearted  and  generous  of 
men  imaginable,  and  more  than  three  weeks  had  flown 
before  the  many  and  imperative  duties  ahead  forced  us  to 
return  reluctantly  to  the  port. 


320  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Padre  Fulgencio  walked  to  the  Coni  with  us,  and  sup- 
plied men  and  canoes  for  the  six  hours'  journey  to  Todos 
Santos.  His  regret  at  our  departure  was  as  genuine  as 
our  own,  and  I  look  forward  with  the  utmost  pleasure  to 
another  and  longer  visit  to  the  mission  and  the  boundless 
country  of  the  upper  Chimore  in  the  not  far-distant  future. 


CHAPTER  XX 

THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA— 
COCHABAMBA  TO  SAMAIPATA 

THE  journey  from  Cochabamba  to  Sucre  presents  diffi- 
culties, no  matter  which  of  the  two  available  routes  is 
selected.  It  is  possible  to  take  a  pack-train  to  the  begin- 
ning of  the  railroad  at  Gala  Gala  and  proceed  by  train  to 
Potosi,  thence  by  cart  or  pack-train  (or  by  motor-car  in 
the  dry  season)  to  Sucre;  but  we  preferred  to  go  the  whole 
way  by  pack-train,  following  the  roundabout  Santa  Cruz 
trail,  as  this  would  enable  us  to  see  the  country  and  also  to 
stop  at  any  time  we  chose  to  investigate  the  fauna  of  a 
promising  region. 

It  is  an  easy  matter  to  rent  mules  and  arrieros  in  Cocha- 
bamba, either  by  the  trip  or  month,  and  the  latter  way  is 
the  more  satisfactory  if  one  does  not  expect  to  spend  too 
much  time  en  route.  We  had  been  told,  however,  that  it 
was  better  to  secure  the  animals  at  Tarata,  a  small  town 
southeast  of  Cochabamba,  so  we  decided  to  make  that  the 
expedition's  starting-point. 

A  narrow-gauge  railroad  connects  Cochabamba  with 
Arani,  almost  due  east;  Tarata  is  about  half-way  between 
the  two.  We  took  the  train  and  sent  our  own  mules  over- 
land, in  charge  of  one  of  the  men.  It  required  but  two 
hours  to  make  the  trip.  The  entire  region  is  naturally  of 
a  barren,  desolate  nature;  nevertheless  it  is  densely  popu- 
lated with  Quechua  Indians.  The  low,  earthen  huts  cover 
the  desert-like  plain  and  are  so  like  it  in  color  that  it  is  at 
first  impossible  to  distinguish  them.  During  the  short 
rainy  season  crops  of  wheat  and  other  grain  are  sown,  and 
their  growth  is  later  promoted  by  means  of  irrigation. 
They  also  cultivate  grape-vines,  and  their  small  clumps  of 
peach  and  apricot  trees  were  in  full  bloom. 

321 


322  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

The  train  stopped  at  numerous  little  stations,  and  at 
each  of  them  gayly  dressed  Quechua  squaws  sold  fried  eggs, 
boiled  corn,  and  bread.  Occasionally  they  also  had  stew 
or  meat  pies,  but  these  were  always  to  be  regarded  with  sus- 
picion. Our  boy  told  us  that  cavies  are  ordinarily  used  in 
preparing  the  meat  foods;  but  a  woman  tried  substituting 
toads  on  one  occasion,  with  the  result  that  those  who  par- 
took of  the  delicacy  became  violently  ill. 

Crowds  of  Indians  boarded  and  left  the  train  at  each 
station.  The  accommodations  at  their  disposal  resemble 
cattle-cars  from  the  outside,  but  have  two  long  benches 
running  through  the  centre.  The  fare  is  very  low,  and  the 
Indians  are  fond  of  travelling,  so  the  cars  were  invariably 
crowded  to  suffocation.  In  addition  to  the  mass  of  human- 
ity each  person  carried  a  huge  parcel,  pail,  or  basket,  that 
filled  the  few  interstices.  The  Quechuas  and  Cholos  are 
a  good-natured  lot  among  themselves,  and  do  not  in  the 
least  mind  being  placed  in  such  close  proximity  with  one 
another. 

We  reached  Tarata  in  two  hours.  It  is  a  town  of  con- 
siderable size;  the  elevation  is  nine  thousand  eight  hundred 
feet,  and  it  is  desolate  beyond  description.  The  inhabi- 
tants are  largely  Indians  of  an  independent  temperament, 
though  living  in  abject  poverty.  We  found  it  almost  im- 
possible to  secure  lodging,  or  to  find  help  to  carry  our  lug- 
gage up  from  the  station,  so  appealed  to  the  chief  of  police, 
who  rounded  up  a  number  of  men  and  placed  them  at  our 
disposal.  Perhaps  our  difficulty  was  due  partly  to  the  fact 
that  the  Indians  were  celebrating  a  religious  holiday. 
They  had  taken  an  image  of  a  saint  from  the  church  and 
were  carrying  it  back  and  forth  through  the  streets.  A 
group  of  them  preceded  the  procession  and  set  off  pin- 
wheels  and  cannon  crackers,  while  those  following  also  em- 
ployed explosives  of  various  kinds  with  which  to  add  to  the 
din.  The  people  are  so  fond  of  this  sort  of  pastime  that  it 
is  difficult  to  persuade  them  to  desist  long  enough  to  per- 
form any  service,  no  matter  how  slight;  and  the  guise  of 


THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA     323 

religious  fervor  gives  them  license  to  indulge  in  acts  that 
would  not  be  tolerated  at  other  times. 

Padre  Fulgencio,  with  whom  we  had  become  acquainted 
at  the  mission  on  the  Chimore,  had  told  me  a  great  deal 
about  the  monastery  of  San  Jose,  located  at  Tarata,  and 
had  given  us  a  letter  of  introduction  to  the  abbot.  We 
therefore  called  upon  that  personage  at  the  first  available 
moment. 

The  huge  building  stands  on  an  eminence  overlooking 
the  town  and  surrounding  country,  and  is  said  to  be  the 
largest  of  its  kind  in  Bolivia.  We  were  ushered  through 
long,  gloomy  corridors,  past  rows  of  small,  cell-like  rooms, 
and  finally  into  the  quarters  of  the  abbot.  This  good  man 
received  us  in  his  cell,  and  cordially  offered  to  assist  us  in 
any  way  possible.  He  also  invited  us  to  make  the  monas- 
tery our  home  during  our  stay  in  Tarata.  A  group  of 
monks  added  their  invitation  to  their  superior's,  but  the 
edifice,  with  walls  eight  or  ten  feet  thick,  small,  narrow 
windows,  bare,  gloomy  rooms,  and  the  chill  damp  as  of  a 
dungeon  was  not  very  inviting,  and  we  preferred  to  return 
to  the  Quechua  hut  that  seemed  to  belong  more  to  the 
every-day  world.  One  of  the  priests,  however,  secured  an 
arriero  and  mules  to  take  us  the  first  stage  of  the  journey. 

Our  man  arrived  about  noon  on  Sunday,  September  18. 
Much  to  our  surprise  we  saw  that  he  had  but  one  arm, 
but  this  did  not  prevent  him  from  being  one  of  the  best 
mule-men  we  ever  employed.  He  had  evolved  a  clever 
system  of  loading  the  packs  that  was  admirably  suited  to 
his  needs.  Instead  of  the  long  ropes  or  thongs  ordinarily 
used  to  tie  on  the  cargoes  he  had  strong  nets  that  fitted 
over  the  packs,  with  loops  that  could  be  hooked  over  pegs 
in  the  pack-saddle.  He  lifted  the  trunks,  each  weighing 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  pounds  with  his  one  arm, 
slipped  them  into  place,  and  then  tied  them  securely  to 
prevent  them  from  bouncing  up  and  down  as  the  animals 
trotted  along. 

The  first  afternoon's  ride  was  short  and  ended  at  the 


324  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

amertfs  house  in  a  village  called  Uaiculi.  There,  as  at 
Tarata,  scores  of  yellow  finches  lived  about  the  houses; 
they  were  fully  as  plentiful  as  English  sparrows  are  in  the 
United  States,  and  acted  not  unlike  them.  The  soil  in  this 
entire  region  is  so  arid  and  rocky  that  even  cacti  grow  in 
limited  numbers  only.  There  are  no  streams,  so  water  of 
a  poor  quality  is  obtained  from  deep  wells.  Nevertheless 
the  whole  country  is  thickly  settled.  The  Indians  are 
adepts  at  conserving  the  scanty  water-supply,  and  at  irri- 
gating. They  grow  fruit  and  also  cultivate  small,  isolated 
fields  of  grain,  but  the  greater  part  of  their  subsistence  is 
derived  from  the  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  that  seem  to 
thrive  in  the  desert-like  country. 

The  climate  is  very  cold  and  during  the  winter  months 
there  is  a  high  wind.  We  could  see  funnel-shaped  masses 
of  dust  moving  across  the  plain  all  day  long;  occasionally  a 
dozen  or  more,  resembling  small  cyclones,  were  visible  at 
the  same  time. 

After  leaving  Uaiculi  the  way  lay  along  the  edge  of  the 
barren  plain  for  some  miles.  A  ridge  of  high  peaks,  some 
of  them  covered  with  snow,  rises  on  each  side.  Then  the 
trail  ascended  the  slope  to  the  east,  rising  gradually  in  a 
series  of  terraces,  four  to  six  hundred  feet  high.  Sometimes 
low  hills  flanked  the  trail,  and  often  we  passed  along  the 
top  of  flat  plateaus. 

The  slopes  of  the  highest  peaks  were  littered  with  fields 
of  broken  sandstone  that  resembled  a  quarry-dump  for 
shattered  rocks  of  large  size;  groves  of  gnarled  trees,  not 
over  twenty-five  feet  high,  grew  in  these  rock-strewn  areas, 
and  we  found  them  nowhere  else.  Where  there  were  no 
rocks  thick  clumps  of  tall  grass  stood.  When  we  reached 
the  elevation  of  thirteen  thousand  four  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  we  found  a  very  peculiar  plant  belonging  to  the  bro- 
melias  (Puyd) ;  the  smooth,  trunk-like  stem  was  about  eigh- 
teen inches  through;  this  served  as  a  pedestal  for  the  dense 
clump  of  slender,  bayonet-like  leaves;  a  tall  spike  of  small 
yellow  flowers  rose  from  the  centre  of  the  plant.  Numbers 


The  great 


a  species  of  pine  growing  in  the  Bolivian  Andes  at  an 
elevation  of  13,000  feet. 


THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA     325 

of  giant  humming-birds  (Patagona  gigas)  came  to  sip  nectar 
from  these  flowers. 

The  mountains  seem  formed  of  solid  sandstone.  Here 
and  there  a  ledge,  worn  and  rounded  by  the  elements,  pro- 
jects conspicuously  and  resembles  an  impregnable  fort  or 
castle  of  majestic  though  fantastic  design.  We  reached  a 
lone  Indian  hut  late  at  night,  and,  while  the  arriero  was 
loath  to  halt,  the  mules  were  too  tired  to  go  much  farther. 
The  neighborhood  was  in  bad  repute  on  account  of  a  num- 
ber of  robberies  and  murders  that  had  recently  taken  place 
there,  and  not  long  after  our  arrival  we  saw  mysterious 
signal-fires  spring  up  on  the  surrounding  slopes.  We  there- 
fore camped  in  a  corral,  the  enclosing  stone  walls  serving 
as  a  barricade,  and  alternately  did  sentry  duty  throughout 
the  night.  I  believe  one  of  the  reasons  for  our  being  left 
severely  alone  was  that  each  member  of  the  expedition 
was  advised  to  display  casually  his  pistol  to  the  inhabitants 
of  the  hut,  and  to  acquaint  them  with  its  possibilities. 
This  same  ruse  has  prevented  serious  trouble  in  a  number 
of  instances.  I  have  found  that  by  far  in  the  greater  part 
of  South  America  there  is  not  the  slightest  necessity  of 
carrying  a  weapon  of  any  kind;  but  there  are  isolated  re- 
gions where  the  moral  effect  on  the  natives  produced  by 
wearing  a  revolver  of  generous  size  in  a  conspicuous  place  is 
so  great  that  one  may  tread  with  impunity  what  would 
otherwise  be  dangerous  ground. 

The  next  night  was  spent  on  the  banks  of  a  narrow  creek 
called  Usiamayo,  the  elevation  being  only  seven  thousand 
nine  hundred  feet.  Many  Indians  live  on  both  sides  of 
the  stream.  They  own  numerous  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats 
and  cultivate  extensive  areas  of  maize  and  wheat.  Their 
huts  are  low,  primitive  affairs,  and  of  such  small  size  that 
they  resemble  overcrowded  rabbit-hutches.  Freshly  cut 
grain  was  piled  in  neat  heaps  that  were  surrounded  by 
fences  of  thorny  brush  to  keep  the  sheep  and  cattle  away. 
Corn  fodder  was  stored  in  the  tops  of  low  trees.  From  a 
distance  these  aerial  storage-places  looked  as  if  they  might 


326  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

be  the  nests  of  some  giant  bird.  Invariably  a  little  shelter 
or  wigwam  stood  in  the  centre  of  each  field,  or  in  several 
instances  it  had  been  built  in  the  branches  of  a  stunted 
tree.  These  are  the  Quechuas'  guard-houses;  they  are 
occupied  by  a  watchman  day  and  night  so  long  as  crops  are 
in  the  field,  and  thieves  have  but  slight  chance,  indeed,  of 
escaping  his  vigilant  eyes. 

It  was  less  than  half  a  day's  ride  from  the  Usiamayo  to 
Mizque,  a  town  of  small  size,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of 
Mizque.  The  cactus-forest  belt  of  central  Bolivia  has  its 
beginning  in  this  region,  although  it  does  not  reach  its  maxi- 
mum development  until  some  distance  farther  south.  A 
part  of  the  surrounding  country,  however,  is  fertile  and 
provides  pasturage  for  horses  and  cattle,  and  areas  of  some 
extent  are  also  cultivated;  this  is  particularly  true  of  the 
land  near  the  small  stream  bearing  the  same  name  as  the 
town  and  province.  A  great  deal  of  the  acreage  is  planted 
in  peppers,  for  which  there  is  a  good  demand  throughout 
the  country,  and  which  fetch  a  high  price.  The  seeds  are 
sown  in  small,  sunken  squares  or  "pans,"  where  the  plants 
remain  until  several  inches  high.  They  are  then  trans- 
planted to  the  fields.  I  saw  numbers  of  Indians  weeding 
in  the  plantations,  and  when  they  neglected  their  work  or 
accidentally  pulled  up  a  few  of  the  precious  plants  together 
with  the  grass,  their  employers  did  not  hesitate  to  cuff  or 
kick  them.  When  the  peppers  are  ripe  they  are  dried  and 
done  up  into  bales  of  about  fifty  pounds  each;  the  natives 
are  very  fond  of  them  and  eat  quantities  just  as  we  eat  an 
apple  or  other  fruit. 

The  fauna  of  the  Mizque  region  is  typical  of  the  arid 
highlands;  but  many  species  of  birds  belonging  to  a  differ- 
ent zone  were  met  with  for  the  first  time  in  Bolivia.  I 
immediately  recognized  the  white  anis  (guiras)  that  were 
so  common  near  Asuncion,  and  there  was  also  a  species  of 
puff-bird,  or  bucco,  and  a  little  finch  of  a  deep-red  color 
(Coryphospingus) .  The  number  of  doves  in  the  open  fields 
was  astonishing;  they  fed  on  weed-seeds,  and  wheo  dis* 


THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA     327 

turbed  flew  to  the  nearest  bush  or  low  tree  which  they  cov- 
ered much  in  the  same  manner  that  passenger  pigeons  are 
said  to  have  done  in  this  country  not  so  many  years  ago. 
One  could  easily  have  secured  thirty  or  forty  with  a  single 
charge  of  number  ten  shot. 

Near  Mizque  lies  a  narrow  valley  enclosed  on  both  sides 
by  ridges  of  low  mountains.  We  repaired  to  this  space  and 
camped  in  a  decaying  structure  that  formerly  served  as  a 
sawmill;  for,  strange  to  relate,  this  little  valley  was  orig- 
inally wooded.  Most  of  the  trees  had  been  cut  down  and 
converted  into  lumber,  and  while  a  large  part  of  the  land 
was  under  cultivation,  there  were  also  extensive  patches  of 
brush  and  second  growth.  Tujma,  as  the  place  is  called, 
deserved  more  time  than  we  could  give  it.  In  addition  to 
the  birds  found  at  Mizque  were  many  species  unknown  to 
us;  among  them  a  blue-fronted  and  a  red-fronted  parra- 
keet,  and  a  gorgeous  Amazon  parrot.  There  was  also  a 
kind  of  macaw  (Am)  that  we  saw  in  that  region  only,  and 
even  there  it  was  rare;  the  forehead  and  shoulders  are  of  a 
blazing  crimson,  and  the  underparts  of  a  pale-yellow  color, 
the  rest  of  the  bird  being  green.  Most  members  of  the 
parrot  family  were  feeding  on  cactus  fruits  that  were  ripen- 
ing in  great  abundance. 

A  hummer  of  rather  modest  attire,  being  of  a  grayish 
color,  but  larger  than  our  own  ruby-throat,  had  a  dainty 
little  nest,  containing  two  white,  bean-like  eggs,  suspended 
from  the  ceiling  of  our  hut.  At  first  the  bird  was  greatly 
distressed  at  our  appearance  and  darted  out  each  time  we 
came  in;  but  finally  it  became  more  confident  and  returned, 
frequently  hovering  overhead  to  inspect  us  several  minutes 
at  a  time,  and  then  slipping  quietly  into  the  nest  where  it 
sat  unconcernedly,  its  long  tongue  playing  in  and  out  of  the 
bill,  like  a  snake's. 

Our  next  station  was  the  large  Indian  town  of  Totora. 
We  covered  the  entire  distance  of  more  than  thirty  miles 
in  a  day.  The  country  is  rough  and  the  trail  runs  up  and 
down  over  numerous  mountain-tops,  varying  between 


328  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

seven  thousand  one  hundred  and  ten  thousand  feet  in 
height.  There  are  a  number  of  deep  ravines  filled  with 
low,  dry  woods;  they  form  the  connecting-links  with  the 
lowland  forest,  and  it  is  up  these  avenues  that  the  new 
fauna  we  were  constantly  observing  finds  an  easy  means 
of  invading  the  uplands.  Before  reaching  Totora  we  had 
seen  guans,  and  jays  of  a  dark-blue  color. 

There  were  many  Indians  on  the  trail;  most  of  them 
were  driving  burros  laden  with  fire-wood,  peppers,  or  sundry 
articles.  When  the  tired  animals  stopped  for  a  moment's 
breathing-spell,  their  owners  beat  them  unmercifully  with 
stones  and  clubs  so  that  some  of  them  dropped  senseless  in 
their  tracks.  The  drivers  also  used  sticks  with  sections  of 
cactus  stuck  on  the  end  as  prods  to  urge  on  the  worn-out 
creatures. 

Totora  is  to  me  the  most  desolate  and  unattractive  place 
in  all  Bolivia,  and  the  inhabitants  are  quite  in  keeping  with 
their  town.  It  is  frequently  spoken  of  as  the  miniature 
La  Paz  because,  like  that  city,  it  is  built  in  a  crevice  in  the 
mountains,  and  one  does  not  see  it  until  on  the  very  brink 
of  the  precipice  above.  .  The  inhabitants  are  practically 
all  Quechuas,  or  Cholos  of  a  low  type  who  spend  most  of 
their  time  drinking,  swearing,  and  fighting;  then  they  un- 
burden their  souls  of  guilt  by  celebrating  a  religious  fiesta. 
We  witnessed  one  such  performance  the  day  after  our 
arrival.  Indians  and  Cholos  formed  the  inevitable  proces- 
sion, headed  by  members  of  the  clergy;  they  halted  at  each 
corner  and  sang  a  hymn  to  the  tune  of  a  few  blaring  brass 
horns.  The  gente  decente  stood  on  the  upper  balconies  of 
their  mud  huts  and  showered  home-made  confetti  and 
firecrackers  on  the  heads  of  the  sacred  statue  and  the 
marchers. 

The  Indians  of  Totora  make  some  of  the  loveliest  blankets 
found  in  all  Bolivia  and — since  the  introduction  of  cheap 
German  dyes — some  of  the  most  atrocious.  They  are 
woven  of  coarse  yarn,  are  thick  and  heavy  and  of  large  size, 
being  about  seven  or  eight  feet  square.  Usually  there  are 


THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA     329 

wide  stripes  of  two  colors  merging  gradually  into  one  an- 
other, and  when  some  harmonious  combination  is  used, 
such  as  dark  green  and  yellow,  the  effect  is  very  pleasing. 
The  price  of  a  blanket,  requiring  months  to  make  and  con- 
taining six  or  eight  pounds  of  wool,  was  about  three  dollars. 

Continuing  our  journey  by  way  of  Duraznillos  and  Lajma, 
we  reached  Chilon  at  the  end  of  three  days.  A  more  tire- 
some trip  is  hard  to  imagine;  the  country  is  so  uneven  that 
one  is  constantly  going  either  up  hill  or  down,  and  the  alti- 
tude varies  from  that  of  Totora,  nine  thousand  eight  hun- 
dred feet  to  ten  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  The  broken, 
arid  landscape  becomes  monotonous,  and  the  climate  is 
trying  owing  to  the  heat  at  midday  and  the  freezing  tem- 
perature at  night.  The  Indians  scattered  along  the  way 
are  not  of  a  particularly  friendly  nature,  and  are  only  in- 
different at  best. 

At  Chilon  we  entered  the  heart  of  the  giant-cactus  forest 
— and  it  can  be  properly  known  by  no  other  name.  The 
country,  far  as  the  eye  can  see,  is  covered  with  the  thorny 
plants;  some  of  the  giant  club-cacti  rear  their  fluted  columns 
to  a  height  of  sixty  to  seventy-five  feet,  and  are  of  majestic 
appearance.  There  are  also  immense  clumps  of  prickly- 
pear  and  several  other  varieties,  while  low,  trailing  kinds 
hug  the  rocky  earth;  the  latter  are  rather  unpleasant  as 
one  frequently  strikes  against  them  in  walking,  and  the 
sharp  spines  penetrate  shoe-leather  and  are  extracted  from 
the  foot  with  difficulty;  mules  frequently  get  them  into 
their  noses  while  nibbling  on  leaves  or  the  few  blades  of 
coarse  grass,  and  are  driven  almost  frantic  with  the  pain. 
Many  of  the  club-cactus  plants  bore  an  abundance  of  round 
fruit  about  two  inches  in  diameter  and  covered  with  long, 
velvety  down;  when  the  outer  covering  was  brushed  off  a 
smooth,  red  berry  was  revealed;  it  is  very  sweet  and  the 
flavor  reminds  one  of  strawberries. 

Chilon  is  a  settlement  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  huts;  its 
elevation  above  sea-level  is  five  thousand  six  hundred  feet, 
Ibut  the  climate  is  very  hot.  We  put  up  in  one  of  th§ 


330  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

hovels  where  there  was  also  a  corral  for  the  mules,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  work  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Chilon,  which  is 
a  small  tributary  of  the  Rio  Mizque.  The  stream  is  rapid 
and  shallow,  and  flows  over  a  rock-strewn  bed.  Numbers 
of  fish,  including  rays,  were  plainly  visible  through  the  clear 
water.  The  majority  of  the  birds  inhabiting  the  thorny 
jungle  that  grows  on  both  sides  of  the  watercourse,  were 
still  of  the  arid  upland  type;  but  there  was  a  further  en- 
croachment of  a  foreign  fauna,  and  the  brown-shouldered 
orioles,  coral-billed  tinamou,  and  red-tailed  parrakeets  left 
no  doubts  in  our  minds  of  the  origin  of  their  distribution. 
They  were  the  advance  ranks  of  a  stream  of  bird-life  flow- 
ing up  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  its  tributaries, 
where  conditions  are  at  least  somewhat  similar  to  those 
obtaining  in  the  chaco  country  to  the  east,  which  is  their 
normal  habitat. 

Apparently  the  red-tailed  parrakeets  were  mating.  Large 
groups  sat  on  the  branches  of  some  stunted  tree,  preening 
one  another's  plumage,  and  emitting  queer  ani-like  wails. 
If  one  observed  closely,  however,  it  could  be  seen  that  the 
flocks  were  always  broken  up  into  pairs  that  were  snuggled 
up  as  closely  together  as  possible. 

Comarapa,  the  next  station,  is  very  similar  to  Chilon, 
but  somewhat  larger.  The  town  is  built  near  the  base  of 
a  high  range  that  towers  to  the  east.  A  stream  of  small 
size  flows  past  the  settlement;  it  is  known  as  the  Rio  Coma- 
rapa, and  is  thought  to  be  the  headwater  of  the  Ichilo  and 
Mamore.  The  Indians  said  that  the  river  flows  through 
a  deep  cleft  in  the  mountains,  impossible  to  follow  or  navi- 
gate; also  that  an  exploration-party  of  Germans  once 
crossed  the  range  with  the  object  of  locating  the  Ichilo  on 
the  other  side,  but  after  spending  several  months  in  the 
wilderness  they  returned  without  having  found  the  river. 
There  was  at  one  time  a  well-known  trail  across  the  moun- 
tains, over  which  war-parties  of  YuracarS  Indians  crossed 
to  attack  the  settlers,  and  later  they  came  to  work  in  the 
pepper-fields;  but  the  location  of  this  passageway  doubt- 


THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA     331 

less  leading  to  the  Ichilo  or  some  other  navigable  stream, 
has  been  forgotten. 

A  few  of  the  older  families  of  Comarapa  possess  wonder- 
ful collections  of  ancient  silverware  made  by  the  Spaniards 
centuries  ago.  One  finds  it  difficult  to  refrain  from  openly 
admiring  the  massive  ladles,  bowls,  plates,  and  cups  that 
are  unostentatiously  placed  on  the  table  before  the  guest, 
but  such  a  procedure  would  be  considered  unpardonable,  as 
any  comment  on  such  possessions  is  looked  upon  with  sus- 
picion. To  attempt  to  purchase  an  article  of  this  kind  is 
regarded  as  a  very  grave  breach  of  etiquette;  but  not  in- 
frequently the  owners  of  these  treasures  experience  the 
need  of  ready  money  and  will  offer  them  for  a  fraction  of 
their  value. 

The  elevation  of  Comarapa  is  six  thousand  six  hundred 
feet.  But  a  short  distance  away  rises  the  first  outlier  of 
the  Andean  Range,  eight  thousand  three  hundred  feet  high; 
from  its  summit  we  could  see  two  other  ridges,  both  of 
greater  height,  that  must  be  crossed  before  reaching  the 
forested  slopes  on  the  eastern  side;  and  there  may  be  more. 
We  descended  one  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  into  a  small 
valley  called  California,  settled  by  a  few  Quechua  families. 
These  people  were  squalid  beyond  description.  Their  dilapi- 
dated huts  swarmed  with  fleas,  and  vermin  of  many  kinds  was 
so  numerous  that  during  the  three  days  and  nights  we  spent 
in  the  valley,  no  member  of  the  party  found  it  possible  to 
get  an  hour's  sleep  altogether.  We  left  sooner  than  we 
had  expected,  as  the  insect  plague  drove  us  to  the  verge  of 
exhaustion.  Practically  all  the  Indians  we  saw  were  suf- 
fering from  consumption.  Many  of  them  had  lost  the  sight 
of  one  eye,  and  I  was  told  that  in  fighting  among  them- 
selves they  invariably  try  to  gouge  out  one  another's  eyes 
with  their  thumbs. 

From  a  short  distance  the  valley  and  the  slopes  above 
California  appear  to  be  heavily  forested,  but  a  close  in- 
spection showed  that  there  was  but  a  dense  growth  of  low, 
dry  woods,  the  trees  not  exceeding  forty  feet  in  height; 


332  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

the  interlocking  branches  were  draped  with  long  streamers 
of  grayish  moss.  The  ground  was  perfectly  clean  and  one 
could  see  a  long  distance  ahead  in  the  greenish-gray  light. 
The  surroundings  were  almost  weird;  subconsciously  one  ex- 
pected to  find  strange  sacrificial  altars,  and  bearded  Druids 
officiating  at  some  gruesome  rite  of  a  mythical  religion. 
Beautiful  little  deer  walked  timidly  among  the  column-like 
trunks  of  the  garlanded  sanctuary,  sniffing  the  air,  and  nib- 
bling daintily  at  a  leaf  or  twig,  and  made  the  hunter  feel 
like  an  intruder  in  a  consecrated  place. 

Upon  our  return  to  Comarapa  we  met  a  gentleman  rep- 
resenting a  mercantile  establishment  in  Cochabamba.  He 
was  making  his  semiannual  tour  of  the  region,  taking  or- 
ders for  merchandise,  and  collecting  for  goods  sold  on  the 
previous  trip.  Most  of  his  customers  paid  with  silver  and 
nickel  coins,  so  that  he  had  several  mule-loads  of  money  in 
his  possession.  One  night  our  Indian  boy  came  to  us  in  a 
state  of  great  excitement.  He  had  been  drinking  chicha  in  an 
Indian  liquor-store  together  with  the  peons  belonging  to  the 
merchant,  and  one  of  them,  while  under  the  influence  of 
drink,  boasted  that  he  expected  to  murder  and  rob  his 
patrdn.  A  plan  had  been  carefully  formed  to  suddenly 
attack  the  man  from  behind,  while  riding  along  a  lonely 
and  precipitous  part  of  the  trail.  The  body  was  then  to  be 
thrown  over  the  precipice  into  the  river  below,  where  no 
one  would  ever  discover  it,  and  the  money  taken  by  the 
highwayman  and  his  accomplice.  Naturally,  we  lost  no  time 
in  imparting  this  information  to  the  traveller,  and  he  at  once 
interviewed  the  would-be  assassin.  He  first  of  all  questioned 
the  man  carefully,  and  when  he  had  succeeded  in  obtaining 
a  partial  confession,  he  mauled  him  back  and  forth  across 
the  room  until  he  was  tired  out.  Thereafter  we  all  trav- 
elled together,  and  the  plotter,  as  further  punishment,  was 
deprived  of  his  horse  and  compelled  to  walk  in  advance  of 
the  party  day  after  day.  He  had  been  in  the  merchant's 
employ  six  years,  and  the  latter  did  not  care  to  turn  him 
over  to  the  police,  but  was  certain  that  the  punishment 


THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA     333 

inflicted  was  sufficient  to  inspire  proper  respect  in  the 
future. 

A  brisk  canter  of  eighteen  miles  took  us  from  Comarapa 
to  Pulcina,  also  known  as  San  Isidro.  A  tame  condor  was 
standing  dolefully  in  the  centre  of  the  open  square  about 
which  the  houses  were  built;  it  was  a  friendly  bird  and  liked 
to  be  petted  and  to  romp,  but  was  pretty  rough  at  times, 
and  picked  off  pieces  of  skin  during  the  course  of  its  rather 
too  affectionate  caresses. 

As  we  unloaded  the  mules  the  bells  in  the  tiny  box-like 
church  began  to  tinkle,  and  all  the  people  rushed  out  of 
their  houses,  bearing  lighted  candles  in  their  hands.  They 
hurried  to  one  of  the  huts  where  a  youth  lay  dying,  and 
crowded  into  the  one  dingy  room,  filling  it  to  overflowing, 
and  raising  their  voices  in  wails  and  lamentations;  this 
continued  for  half  an  hour.  No  priest  or  physician  was 
present;  only  the  noisy  mob  of  half -wild  people,  to  whom 
death  comes  as  a  divertisement  from  the  daily  humdrum  of 
half -lived  lives,  to  speed  the  parting  soul  to  the  great  beyond. 

Pulcina  was  swarming  with  dogs.  It  seemed  as  if  each 
family  owned  at  least  half  a  dozen.  They  were  a  hungry 
mongrel  lot,  that  roamed  at  large,  snarling  at  passers-by  and 
rending  the  night  with  howls  and  fighting.  It  was  impos- 
sible to  keep  them  out  of  the  houses,  and  no  matter  how 
often  they  were  driven  away  they  always  returned  to  rum- 
mage among  the  luggage  and  attempt  to  tear  open  the  pro- 
vision-sacks. Toward  morning,  when  the  dogs  had  de- 
parted, pigs  came  to  take  their  place.  Each  of  them  wore 
a  long,  forked  stick  over  the  neck,  like  an  inverted  Y;  an- 
other stick  was  lashed  across  the  bottom  so  that  the  pig's 
neck  was  enclosed  in  a  complete  wooden  triangle.  This 
arrangement  would  have  kept  the  pigs  from  crawling 
through  fences,  had  there  been  any.  Some  of  the  con- 
trivances were  so  large  that  they  had  apparently  been  made 
in  the  hope  that  the  animals  would  eventually  grow  to  fit 
them;  but  as  it  was,  they  touched  the  ground  and  made 
the  wearers  think  they  were  constantly  about  to  step  over 


334  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

something,  so  they  walked  along  raising  their  front  feet 
like  well-trained  circus  horses. 

A  ride  of  thirty  miles  next  day  brought  us  to  Pampa 
Grande.  The  town  was  anything  but  what  the  name  led 
us  to  expect.  Instead  of  a  vast,  grass-covered  pampa, 
there  was  but  a  semiarid  plain;  near  by  extended  the  wide, 
rocky  bed  of  a  river  that  contained  not  a  drop  of  water. 
The  inhabitants  had  dug  deep  down  into  the  gravel  and 
scooped  up  the  small  quantity  of  thin  mud  that  had  collected; 
it  is  a  place  about  the  size  of  Mizque  but  wretched-looking 
and  forsaken.  Formerly  it  had  a  population  of  sixty  thou- 
sand and  was  noted  for  the  brilliancy  and  gayety  of  its 
annual  fairs,  that  drew  crowds  even  from  the  Argentine. 
Epidemics  of  fever,  it  is  said,  killed  off  many  of  the  people, 
and  others  fled  from  the  threatening  shadow  of  the  pesti- 
lence, until  to-day  the  once  thriving  city  has  all  but  ceased 
to  exist. 

At  Pampa  Grande  we  had  a  very  good  illustration  of 
two  extreme  types  of  Bolivian  character.  When  we  en- 
tered the  town,  our  travelling  companion  met  an  ac- 
quaintance who  owned  practically  the  only  house  of  any 
size.  The  Bolivian  greeted  him  in  the  friendliest  and 
most  polite  manner  possible,  and  insisted  that  all  of  us 
spend  the  night  at  his  home;  he  directed  us  to  the  house 
and  then  excused  himself,  saying  that  he  would  return  pres- 
ently. We  found  the  place  without  difficulty,  but  the  wife 
refused  to  admit  us  and  told  us  we  might  wait — in  the 
street — until  the  return  of  her  husband.  The  school-teacher, 
seeing  our  predicament,  ventured  to  offer  us  the  use  of  the 
classroom;  he  apologized  because  it  was  so  small  and  the 
roof  leaked;  and  the  next  day  he  refused  to  accept  a  single 
centavo  for  the  accommodation.  The  first  man  had  not 
returned  home  when  we  were  leaving  the  following  morn- 
ing; from  my  experience  with  the  same  type  of  person,  I 
am  certain  that  had  he  returned  and  admitted  us  to  his 
home,  he  would  have  made  an  exorbitant  charge  that  cour- 
tesy demanded  our  paying. 


THE  CACTUS  FORESTS  OF  CENTRAL  BOLIVIA     335 

There  now  remained  but  one  day's  ride  to  Samaipata, 
where  the  trail  divides — one  branch  leading  toward  Sucre, 
and  the  other  to  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra.  The  farther  east- 
ward one  goes  the  greener  the  country  becomes.  Between 
the  five-thousand-foot  elevation  of  Pampa  Grande  and 
Samaipata,  which  is  six  thousand  feet  above  sea-level,  there 
are  two  peaks  to  be  crossed,  one  seven  thousand  three  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  feet,  and  the  other  six  thousand  seven 
hundred  feet  high.  The  top  of  the  former  is  known  as  the 
Alto  de  Mairana;  it  is  a  cold,  dreary  little  plateau  where 
half  a  dozen  wretched  Indians  live.  The  town  of  Mairana 
is  on  the  lower  plain  between  the  two  peaks.  Patches  of 
low  brush  replace  the  cacti  and  thorny,  arid-region  type  of 
vegetation;  there  is  a  sufficient  water-supply;  and  the 
whole  country  seems  to  present  a  transition  zone  of  reviving 
life  between  the  alternately  hot  and  frigid  upland  deserts 
and  the  green  slopes  stretching  toward  Santa  Cruz. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

A  MULE-BACK  JOURNEY  ON  THE  SANTA  CRUZ  TRAIL 

TO  SUCRE 

SAMAIPATA  is  in  no  particular  different  from  the  towns 
through  which  we  had  passed  during  the  previous  two 
weeks.  Perhaps  provisions  were  somewhat  more  abundant, 
and  a  small  number  of  mules  and  sheep  grazed  in  the  near- 
by pastures;  but  the  general  distress  and  dejection  were 
very  much  the  same,  and  never  failed  to  give  one  the  im- 
pression that  the  settlements  were  tottering  on  the  brink 
of  obliteration.  Everywhere  we  heard  tales  of  woe  about 
the  prevalence  of  malarial  fever  during  a  part  of  the  year, 
and  that  this  disease  was  the  cause  of  the  desolation  and 
extermination  of  the  people;  but  as  none  of  the  places  was 
lower  than  five  thousand  feet  above  sea-level,  and  the  coun- 
try is  of  a  semiarid  type,  I  am  unable  to  understand  how 
malaria  could  work  such  havoc,  and  am  inclined  to  attrib- 
ute the  dreadful  inroads  to  some  other  little-known  under- 
lying cause. 

Since  leaving  Cochabamba  we  had  made  very  good  time; 
although  there  had  been  several  halts  en  route,  the  distance 
covered  each  day  was  comparatively  great,  ranging  some- 
times up  to  forty  miles,  considering  that  we  always  travelled 
with  our  pack-train.  Such  long  rides  were  made  possible 
by  the  fact  that  all  arrieros  were  mounted;  if  they  travelled 
on  foot,  as  in  Colombia,  the  distance  traversed  each  day 
would  be  about  half.  Fast  travelling,  however,  was  hard  on 
the  mules.  When  we  reached  Samaipata  our  animals  were 
in  poor  condition,  so  we  left  them  in  charge  of  an  attendant 
and  engaged  a  complete  new  outfit  for  a  short  side-trip 
toward  Santa  Cruz. 

One  of  our  main  objects  in  undertaking  this  entire  long, 
arduous  journey  was  to  attempt  to  determine  the  southern 

336 


A  MULE-BACK  JOURNEY  337 

limit  of  the  subtropical  forest  zone.  This  type  of  forest 
grows  on  the  eastern  slopes  only  of  the  Bolivian  Andes; 
a  section  directly  eastward  would,  therefore,  take  us  through 
this  zone  and  possibly  enable  us  to  find  the  solution  to  the 
problem.  It  was  not  intended  to  cover  the  entire  one  hun- 
dred and  ten  miles  from  Samaipata  to  Santa  Cruz,  but  only 
to  go  far  enough  to  secure  the  desired  information. 

The  mountain  range  breaks  down  rapidly  east  of  Samai- 
pata, but  the  road  to  Santa  Cruz  is,  nevertheless,  neither 
an  easy  nor  a  level  one.  There  are  still  four  steep  ridges 
to  cross,  called  Cuevas,  Negra,  Herradura,  and  Guitara; 
between  them  lie  small,  well-watered  valleys,  planted  in 
cane  and  fruits,  and  settled  by  Bolivians  of  Spanish  ex- 
traction. There  are  no  more  Quechuas,  nor  is  their  lan- 
guage spoken;  after  many  months  we  were  once  again  in  a 
Spanish-speaking  world. 

The  trail,  at  least  during  the  second  day's  travel,  lies 
near  the  course  of  the  Rio  Piray,  and  the  scenery  flanking 
this  watercourse  is  among  the  most  picturesque  found  in 
the  Bolivian  Andes.  There  is  a  bewildering  succession  of 
dome-shaped  peaks,  unscalable  cliffs  and  overhanging 
precipices,  all  of  red  sandstone.  Many  of  the  formations 
are  spotlessly  clean  and  smooth,  as  if  scoured,  or  cut  with 
a  knife.  The  river  laves  the  base  of  the  rugged  chain,  and 
dark  caverns  worn  into  the  frowning  battlement  open  al- 
luringly to  tempt  the  adventurous  spirit  to  explore  their 
unknown  depths. 

Vermejo  is  the  name  given  to  a  fertile  region  that  may 
be  called  yungas,  between  the  Negra  and  Herradura  ridges. 
Several  houses  are  scattered  along  the  trail;  the  inhabitants 
grow  maize,  potatoes,  and  large  quantities  of  cane  that  is 
used  in  making  chancaca  (brown  sugar)  and  molasses.  The 
people  also  make  bread  and  a  peculiar  " food-drink"  called 
somo  to  sell  to  passers-by.  Somo  is  made  of  boiled  maize 
that  has  been  left  standing  until  fermentation  sets  in,  and 
is  taken  with  molasses.  To  us,  the  taste  was  very  disagree- 
able, but  the  natives  were  fond  of  it  and  purchased  a  bowl- 


338  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

ful  at  frequent  intervals.  Chicha,  made  from  peanuts, 
was  also  to  be  had  at  some  of  the  dwellings. 

With  the  exception  of  the  tracts  cleared  for  cultivation, 
and  the  bare  sandstone  summits,  the  country  is  covered 
with  light  forest.  There  is  practically  no  moss,  but  a  dense 
undergrowth  of  climbing  bamboo  and  a  few  palms  and  ferns. 
As  a  whole,  the  vegetation  does  not  greatly  resemble  that 
of  the  true  subtropic  or  cloud-forest  zone,  and  as  this  was 
its  upper  limit  and  three  thousand  and  five  hundred  feet 
above  sea-level,  it  should  have  been  of  the  subtropic  type, 
if  any  exists  in  the  region.  We  may,  therefore,  safely  con- 
clude that  this  marks  the  ending  of  the  zone  of  cloud  forest 
existing  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes  during  practically 
their  entire  course  north  of  this  point. 

Birds  were  not  very  common,  and  of  comparatively  few 
species;  but  the  fauna  is  entirely  different  from  that  of  the 
uplands.  The  brilliant  little  tanagers  (Calliste),  so  typical 
of  the  mountain  forest,  are  conspicuously  absent.  There 
were,  however,  several  kinds  of  warblers,  and  wrens,  parrots, 
and  other  birds  properly  belonging  to  such  a  region.  A 
black-and-white  guan  (Pipile)  was  really  plentiful,  and  while 
the  distribution  of  the  species  is  very  great,  I  had  always 
considered  it  a  rare  bird.  It  is  about  twenty-eight  inches 
long,  and  of  a  bronzy-black  color.  The  top  of  the  head 
and  a  large  blotch  on  the  wings  are  white;  the  naked  cheeks 
and  a  long  throat-caruncle  are  of  a  delicate  shade  of  grayish 
blue.  The  bird's  rasping  cry  may  be  heard  morning  and 
evening,  as  it  takes  wing  and  alternately  soars  and  flaps 
from  one  tree  to  another,  or  skims  over  the  top  of  the 
forest.  Adult  birds  weigh  up  to  four  pounds  and  are  killed 
for  food  on  every  possible  occasion,  as  the  flesh  is  very 
good.  The  individuals  I  examined  had  been  feeding  on 
green  leaves  swallowed  whole. 

Jays  hi  flocks  followed  us  about  in  the  forest  and  kept 
up  a  constant  screaming  and  scolding.  It  was  impossible 
to  escape  them  without  using  drastic  measures.  They  were 
a  great  nuisance,  as  their  cries  frightened  other  forms  of 


A  MULE-BACK  JOURNEY  339 

wild  life  away;  both  the  black-fronted  blue  and  the  green- 
and-yellow  species  mingled  in  the  same  flocks. 

One  day  we  rode  to  the  top  of  the  next  ridge,  the  Herra- 
dura,  which  is  six  thousand  feet  high.  The  trail  winds  up 
along  the  face  of  the  slope  and  is  very  poor  in  places;  a 
row  of  wonderful  crags  and  cathedral-shaped  mountains 
stands  like  the  ruins  of  a  city  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
ravine.  On  the  face  of  one  of  the  cliffs  we  saw  what  seems 
to  be  a  gigantic  serpent  carved  in  the  red  sandstone  directly 
above  two  massive  stones  that  stand  as  if  forming  a  gate- 
way. The  people  say  this  is  the  entrance  to  a  secret 
hiding-place  used  by  the  Indians  many  years  ago;  or  per- 
haps it  might  have  been  a  prehistoric  shrine.  ^The  outline 
of  the  supposed  snake  can  be  discerned  with  ease,  and  the 
body  is  marked  with  transverse  black  bands.  It  seems  that 
the  natives  have  never  taken  the  trouble  to  visit  the  spot, 
owing  to  the  difficulty  of  crossing  the  wild  gorge. 

We  continued  to  the  crest  of  the  ridge;  from  this  point 
of  vantage  it  was  possible  to  secure  a  good  view  of  the  coun- 
try to  the  east,  but  as  it  did  not  differ  from  that  we  had 
just  left,  there  was  no  reason  for  going  farther. 

The  vicinity  of  Vermejo  had  been  headquarters  of  a  band 
of  brigands  that  preyed  upon  travellers  and  caravans  going 
to  and  from  Santa  Cruz.  They  had  had  their  rendezvous  in 
one  of  the  numerous  caves,  and  for  a  long  time  conducted 
their  nefarious  occupation  with  impunity.  Eventually, 
however,  their  depredations  became  so  bold  and  wide-spread, 
that  a  body  of  soldiers  was  sent  against  them.  The  bandits, 
brought  to  bay  among  the  hills,  found  it  impossible  to  with- 
stand the  onslaught  of  their  assailants,  and  surrendered. 
It  was  said  that  a  great  many  horses  and  other  property 
were  recovered,  and  of  the  men  captured  a  number  were 
taken  to  Santa  Cruz,  and  others  to  Cochabamba  and  exe- 
cuted. After  that,  thieving  stopped  for  a  while,  but  a  new 
band  was  beginning  operations  at  the  time  of  our  visit. 

The  amount  of  traffic  along  the  trail  was  surprising. 
Most  of  the  caravans  were  from  Cochabamba;  they  took 


340  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

merchandise  to  Santa  Cruz  and  brought  back  cigars  and 
low-country  products. 

The  language  spoken  by  the  Cruzenos  is  very  peculiar; 
the  diminutive  ito  is  changed  to  ingo,  so  instead  of  saying 
potito,  horita,  or  chiquito,  they  say  pocingo,  horinga,  and  chi- 
quingo,  for  instance.  There  are  also  other  changes  that 
sound  either  confusing  or  amusing  at  first.  At  any  rate, 
they  speak  the  language  of  the  country,  and  do  not  copy 
that  of  the  Indians.  I  have  frequently  wondered  how  any 
country,  such  as  Paraguay  or  Bolivia,  for  example,  could 
hope  to  advance  when  its  inhabitants  adopt  the  language 
and  customs  of  its  Indian  population,  instead  of  introduc- 
ing then*  own  mode  of  living  and  institutions  which  should, 
at  least,  be  on  a  higher  plane.  The  former  procedure  might 
be  excusable  to  a  limited  degree  in  isolated  cases  when,  for 
instance,  a  missionary  goes  among  savages  who  have  no 
reason  for  being  interested  in  the  white  man,  and  who  do 
not  recognize  his  authority  unless  he  can  propound  his  doc- 
trine in  a  way  they  can  readily  understand.  It  may  be 
argued  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  of  Para- 
guay or  Bolivia  are  half-breeds  and  therefore  naturally 
adhere  to  the  ways  of  their  Indian  ancestry;  but  that  only 
shows  more  conclusively  than  ever  the  weak,  moral  fibre 
of  the  Spanish  half,  that  so  readily  succumbs  to  the  Indian 
half.  It  is  very  safe  to  wager  that  if  such  a  country  were 
completely  isolated  from  the  remainder  of  the  world  for 
a  few  generations,  savagery  would  again  come  into  its  own 
and  obliterate  the  traces  of  to-day's  civilization. 

In  the  course  of  years  of  almost  constant  hunting  one  is 
compelled  to  have  some  very  peculiar  and  unusual  experi- 
ences. One  of  these  occurred  at  Malena,  Colombia,  when 
the  wounded  macaw  entered  our  room.  Another  took  place 
at  and  near  Vermejo.  The  evening  before  starting  back 
to  Samaipata,  we  noticed  a  flock  of  swifts  soaring  high  above 
the  hut.  Boyle  and  I  grabbed  our  shotguns  and  each  took 
a  quick  shot  before  the  birds  disappeared;  my  companion 
scored  a  clean  hit;  apparently  I  had  missed;  but  the  next 


A  MULE-BACK  JOURNEY  341 

morning  we  were  astonished  to  find  a  dead  bird  of  the  same 
species  lying  on  a  rock  beside  the  trail,  about  two  miles 
distant,  and  more  than  one  thousand  feet  above  the  place 
we  had  left.  I  am  convinced  that  it  was  the  identical  bird 
I  had  aimed  at,  and  that  it  had  continued  flying  until  it 
died  and  fell  in  the  spot  where  we  chanced  to  find  it.  The 
natives  do  not  shoot  birds  on  the  wing,  because  ammuni- 
tion is  too  costly  to  take  any  chances  with;  under  no  cir- 
cumstances would  a  charge  be  wasted  on  a  small  swift-winged 
bird;  and  also,  when  I  prepared  the  bird  I  found  a  number- 
ten  shot  in  its  head,  which  is  what  we  used;  such  small 
shot  is  not  to  be  had  by  natives,  as  none  is  used  in  the 
country.  The  coincidence  of  finding  the  bird  is  one  that  is 
not  likely  ever  to  be  repeated. 

From  Samaipata  we  turned  southward  toward  Valle- 
grande.  It  required  two  days'  travel  to  reach  that  town, 
over  the  same  monotonous,  broken,  barren  country  ranging 
in  elevation  from  five  thousand  three  hundred  feet  to  eight 
thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  There  are  a  few  trees 
near  some  of  the  small  watercourses,  but  as  a  whole  the 
country  is  unproductive.  At  Vallegrande,  however,  the 
ground  is  not  so  sterile.  The  town  also  is  more  attractive, 
and  the  more  cheerful  environment  is  reflected  in  the  dis- 
positions of  the  people.  I  was  particularly  glad  to  find  that 
some  of  the  inhabitants  showed  traits  of  character  unmis- 
takably alien  to  the  average  Bolivian,  and  it  did  not  require 
a  great  effort  to  trace  them  directly  to  the  wholesome  in- 
fluence exerted  by  the  American  College  at  Cochabamba. 
It  was  forcibly  demonstrated  that  at  least  some  of  the  stu- 
dents of  the  Cochabamba  Institute  introduce  into  their 
houses  and  home  towns  the  admirable  precepts  of  tem- 
perance, morality,  and  sincerity  with  which  they  have  be- 
come imbued. 

Travel  in  the  highlands  of  Bolivia  presents  a  succession 
of  difficulties,  chief  of  which  is  the  scarcity  of  mules  and 
also  the  lack  of  forage. 

There  is  no  natural  pasturage,  so  the  animals  must  sub- 


342  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

sist  entirely  on  oats  grown  by  the  Indians  in  irrigated  areas. 
The  cost  of  keeping  animals  is  prohibitive;  instead  of  the 
one  or  two  cents  a  day  charged  in  the  settled  parts  of  Co- 
lombia, one  is  compelled  to  pay  fifty  cents  or  more.  We 
should  probably  have  been  forced  to  remain  in  Vallegrande 
a  long  time,  had  it  not  been  for  one  Senor  Villazon  who  pro- 
vided the  pack-mules  for  the  rest  of  the  journey  to  Sucre. 

The  first  day's  ride  took  us  to  the  village  of  Pucara.  A 
part  of  the  distance  had  been  over  a  grass-covered  plateau 
ten  thousand  feet  high,  cut  in  places  by  deep  ravines  filled 
with  light  woods.  The  second  day  we  faced  the  unpleasant 
prospect  of  having  to  cross  the  Rio  Grande.  The  few  na- 
tives we  met  said  that  the  river  was  probably  very  high 
and  were  inclined  to  be  pessimistic  concerning  our  ability 
to  get  across;  they  also  advised  us  to  return  to  Aiquile, 
near  Mizque,  as  the  stream  is  narrow  and  spanned  by  a 
bridge  at  that  point;  but  as  this  meant  retracing  our  steps 
the  greater  part  of  the  way,  we  could  not  consider  the  sug- 
gestion. 

One  has  the  first  view  of  the  Rio  Grande  from  the  top  of 
a  rocky  mountain  nine  thousand  five  hundred  feet  high,  of 
which  we  reached  the  summit  a  few  hours  after  leaving 
Pucard.  Far  below  lay  the  dull,  brown  ribbon  of  water, 
looking  like  a  painted  streak  across  a  grayish  background. 
The  descent  to  the  watercourse  is  so  abrupt  that  in  many 
instances  the  trail  consisted  of  a  succession  of  steps  hewn 
into  the  rock;  toiling  down  the  tortuous  trail  was  life-sap- 
ping work  for  the  pack-animals;  we  relieved  the  riding  ani- 
mals by  walking.  Downward,  always  downward,  led  the 
indistinct  way,  seemingly  into  a  bottomless  abyss.  The 
mountainside  is  dry  and  cheerless;  no  dainty  flower  or 
blade  of  grass  relieves  the  grim  desolation  of  desert  dust 
and  shattered  rock,  and  even  the  few  grayish,  stunted  cacti 
seem  to  shrivel  and  die  in  the  burning  glare  of  a  hostile  sun. 
After  hours  that  seemed  more  like  days  we  arrived  at  the 
dry  bed  of  a  narrow  stream  and  followed  down  its  angular 
course,  The  aneroid  showed  that  we  were  exactly  one  mile 


A  MULE-BACK  JOURNEY  343 

lower  than  our  starting-point,  but  still  the  river  seemed 
like  a  mirage,  near,  yet  unattainable. 

Although  the  declivity  was  now  gentler,  the  lofty  walls 
of  gray  sandstone  flanking  the  dismal  canyon  through  which 
we  rode  shut  off  any  ventilating  breeze  that  chanced  to 
pass  above,  and  made  a  stifling  oven  of  the  narrow  fissure. 
For  two  hours  we  travelled  over  the  rock-strewn  stream- 
bed,  and  then  suddenly  entered  a  narrow  belt  of  mimosas 
and  cacti;  the  Rio  Grande  flows  through  the  centre  of  the 
green  little  valley. 

Although  the  river  had  appeared  peaceful  enough  from 
the  summit  five  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  above,  we 
found  it  to  be  a  wide,  brown  sheet  of  ruffled  water  racing 
over  a  boulder-encumbered  bed.  Our  mule-drivers  were 
filled  with  alarm  and  dared  not  venture  into  the  treacherous 
flood.  It  was  as  we  had  feared;  the  spring  rains  had  begun 
in  the  mountains,  and  the  surplus  water  was  rapidly  swelling 
the  lowland  streams.  While  we  were  debating  on  the  proper 
course  to  pursue,  an  Indian  youth  chanced  along  and  con- 
sented to  guide  us  to  a  ford  about  half  a  mile  up-stream. 
Arrived  at  the  spot,  he  stripped  and  waded  cautiously  into 
the  river,  which  here  spread  over  a  wide  bar.  Fortunately 
the  water  was  not  over  four  feet  deep;  the  youth  returned 
to  the  bank  and  led  the  mules  across  one  by  one.  When 
the  river  is  too  high  to  ford,  the  natives  use  tub-shaped 
boats  made  of  ox-hide  in  which  to  cross;  there  is  no  way 
of  controlling  the  craft,  so  the  current  may  carry  them  a 
mile  or  so  below  the  starting-point  before  it  reaches  the 
other  side. 

The  water  of  the  river  was  unfit  for  drinking.  It  con- 
tains about  thirty  per  cent  solid  matter,  although  the  reason 
for  this  was  that  it  was  rising  rapidly  and  bringing  down 
a  great  quantity  of  sand  from  the  mountain. 

Numbers  of  small  ravines  emerge  from  the  barren  slopes 
flanking  the  Rio  Grande,  and  streams  of  inconsiderable 
size  pour  their  water  into  the  larger  artery.  All  these  open- 
ings are  filled  with  brush  and  low  trees;  we  followed  up 


344  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

one  of  them  and,  within  a  few  hours,  reached  a  habitation 
called  Bella  Vista.  The  shambling  structure  stood  on  the 
edge  of  a  clearing  planted  in  sugar-cane.  Dense  jungles 
of  wild  cane  and  brush  bounded  the  plantation.  As  I  was 
already  convinced  that  the  Rio  Grande  is  the  avenue  up 
which  the  chaco  bird-life  was  penetrating  into  the  higher 
regions,  we  determined  to  remain  at  Bella  Vista  sufficiently 
long  to  substantiate  my  views;  it  required  only  one  day  for 
this  purpose.  The  species  that  had  been  found  in  limited 
numbers  farther  up,  and  that  seemed  to  belong  to  a  strange 
fauna,  exist  in  abundance  at  Bella  Vista;  among  them  are 
brown-shouldered  orioles,  white  anis  (Guira),  fork-tailed 
goatsuckers,  white-throated  toucans  (Ramphastos)  and 
many  others. 

Pigeons  (Leptoptild)  were  so  numerous  that  they  suffered 
for  lack  of  food.  I  am  unable  to  say  whether  there  had 
been  an  abnormal  increase  in  the  number  of  the  species, 
or  if  the  food-supply  was  unusually  low;  but  one  thing  is 
certain — they  were  in  a  very  emaciated  condition  and  some 
of  them  had  become  so  weakened  that  flight  was  impossible, 
and  they  fell  an  easy  prey  to  the  natives  or  predatory  ani- 
mals. I  also  noticed  that  all  the  pigeons  were  infested  with 
parasites,  but  the  weaker  individuals  were  covered  with 
them,  including  many  winged,  fly-like  bird-ticks  (Hippo- 
boscidce)  that  skipped  among  the  feathers  at  bewildering 
speed,  and  finally  flew  away  with  a  loud  buzz;  sometimes 
the  repulsive  insects  settled  on  our  hands  or  faces,  when 
it  was  almost  impossible  to  displace  them,  owing  to  their 
agile  movements  and  to  their  clinging  ability  caused  by 
the  hooks  on  their  feet. 

This  furnished  a  very  good  illustration  of  the  survival 
of  the  fittest,  and  one  that  I  believe  is  typical  of  what 
happens  in  many  instances.  Owing,  perhaps,  to  unusual 
or  long-continued  favorable  conditions,  the  species  had 
become  exceedingly  numerous.  So  long  as  there  was  no 
shortage  in  the  food-supply,  the  birds  were  able  to  hold 
their  own  and  keep  increasing;  but,  as  the  season  of  famine 


A  MULE-BACK  JOURNEY  345 

approached,  as  I  believe  it  must  occasionally  do,  though 
not  necessarily  at  regular  intervals,  the  weaker  individuals 
were  the  first  to  feel  the  pinch  of  a  reduced  subsistence  which 
automatically  rendered  them  still  less  suited  to  obtain  a 
livelihood.  Their  rapidly  failing  vigor  also  prevented  them 
from  coping  with  their  natural  enemies — whether  parasitic 
or  predaceous,  so  that  they  were  soon  eliminated  and  only 
those  that  entered  the  struggle  in  the  strongest,  healthiest 
condition  stood  a  reasonable  show  of  surviving. 

While  tramping  through  the  cane-thickets,  we  found 
the  nest  of  a  pair  of  red-breasted  thrushes.  Both  parent 
birds  fluttered  over  our  heads  and  with  loud,  angry  cries 
expressed  their  resentment  and  anxiety.  The  nest  was 
betrayed  by  the  birds7  very  actions.  It  was  cunningly  con- 
cealed in  a  dense  tangle  of  leaves  and  creepers,  and  was 
not  unlike  that  made  by  our  own  robin;  but  the  three  eggs 
were  heavily  spotted  with  brown  instead  of  being  of  a  plain 
blue  color. 

When  dusk  overtook  us  on  the  first  day  out  of  Pescado, 
thirty-six  miles  southeast  of  Bella  Vista,  we  were  riding 
over  a  grass-covered  plateau -with  a  stream  flowing  along 
one  side  of  it.  It  was  therefore  unnecessary  to  seek  an 
Indian  dwelling  for  the  purpose  of  securing  forage.  We 
picketed  the  mules,  and  slept  out  in  the  open.  The  next 
morning  a  Quichua  woman  with  a  fowl  under  her  arm  passed 
along  the  trail;  we  asked  her  the  price  of  the  bird,  as  we 
suspected  that  she  was  taking  it  to  some  village  to  sell. 
"Four  bolivianos,"  she  replied  promptly.  The  mule-driver 
remarked,  very  emphatically,  that  the  price  was  exorbitant. 
"But,"  she  protested,  "this  is  a  game-cock.  It  is  a  good 
fighter  and  can  whip  any  rooster  in  the  country."  The 
arriero  then  informed  her  that  we  wanted  the  rooster  to 
eat,  and  not  to  fight.  "Oh,"  said  the  woman,  "that  is  an- 
other matter;  sixty  centavos"  and  the  sale  was  concluded 
without  further  argument. 

Apparently  the  birds  of  the  highlands  were  nesting.  We 
saw  numbers  of  newly  constructed  nests  in  the  cacti  and 


346  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

small-leaved  vegetation;  they  belonged  to  mocking-birds, 
pigeons,  and  finches;  but  only  a  few  of  them  contained 
eggs.  The  Indians  had  filled  many  of  the  little  domiciles 
with  stones  before  they  were  completed  in  an  attempt  to 
prevent  an  increase  in  the  numbers  of  birds.  Large  flocks 
of  several  species  gather  in  the  grain-fields  during  the  fall 
months  and  exact  rather  a  heavy  tribute,  and  it  is  for  this 
reason  that  the  Indians  try  to  prevent  their  increase. 

While  riding  along  one  morning  we  flushed  a  red-crested 
woodpecker  (Chrysoptilus  cristatus)  from  a  hole  in  a  stub 
near  the  road.  The  entrance  to  the  cavity  was  about  eight 
feet  up,  but  the  nest  was  down  low  in  the  hollow  trunk. 
An  investigation  brought  to  view  four  pear-shaped,  glossy, 
white  eggs  lying  on  a  pad  of  chips. 

This  species  is  one  of  the  commonest,  and  therefore  one 
of  the  best-known  woodpeckers.  We  found  it  very  abun- 
dant throughout  the  uplands  near,  and  south  of  Cocha- 
bamba,  where  there  was  a  growth  of  cacti  and  low  trees. 
Invariably  there  were  two  birds  together,  and  not  infre- 
quently we  saw  flocks  of  four  or  five.  It  has  a  clear,  power- 
ful note,  and  a  swift,  undulating  flight.  I  have  frequently 
seen  it  on  the  ground  in  company  with  long-billed  wood- 
hewers  (Drymornis)  and  brown  cachalotes  (Homorus)  search- 
ing for  insects  and  larvae  among  the  debris  always  littering 
the  ground  beneath  the  giant  club-cacti. 

As  we  neared  Sucre,  a  marked  change  was  noticeable 
in  the  appearance  of  the  Indians.  Instead  of  the  unattrac- 
tive lot  that  we  had  encountered  daily,  they  were  a  uni- 
formly garbed,  more  primitive  and  more  picturesque  people. 
The  greatest  change  was  evident  at  Pulque,  which  we 
reached  a  few  weeks  later. 

Tarabuco  is  the  name  given  to  a  town  of  large  size, 
located  on  a  frigid  mesa  over  ten  thousand  feet  up.  When 
we  arrived  there  snow  was  falling  and  an  icy  wind  blew  at 
terrific  velocity;  but  the  natives  seemed  not  at  all  dis- 
comfited by  the  blizzard,  and  were  conducting  the  weekly 
market  with  the  usual  hilarity.  Provisions  of  many  kinds 


A  MULE-BACK  JOURNEY  347 

were  to  be  had  in  abundance;  mutton,  bread,  peaches, 
and  eggs  were  particularly  plentiful;  but  the  lack  of  fruits 
and  vegetables  requiring  a  warm  climate  and  rich  soil  was 
very  noticeable.  One  could  purchase  all  the  necessaries 
of  life  in  any  of  the  numerous  stores;  most  of  them  were 
imported  from  the  United  States  and  Europe. 

We  spent  the  night  before  reaching  Sucre  in  a  cluster 
of  Indian  dwellings  called  Cghilka.  The  pronunciation  of 
the  name  is  difficult  to  a  foreigner,  because  two  of  the  three 
"cliks"  employed  in  the  Quechua  language  are  used  in  say- 
ing the  word.  Cghilka  consisted  of  half  a  dozen  low  hovels, 
built  of  irregular  stones  and  roofed  over  with  grass.  Flocks 
of  sheep  and  a  few  burros  nibbled  the  short  grass,  and  goats 
clambered  along  the  face  of  precipices  unscalable  to  human 
beings;  some  of  the  latter  also  stood  on  the  top  of  stone 
fences,  or  roofs,  and  several  times  we  saw  individuals  that 
had  climbed  into  the  branches  of  a  leaning  mimosa  and 
were  unconcernedly  browsing  on  the  leaves. 

The  Indian  women,  it  seemed  to  us,  were  everlastingly 
spinning  in  order  to  keep  up  the  necessary  supply  of  cloth- 
ing. Those  at  Cghilka  were  no  exceptions;  but  they  also 
made  unusually  pretty  blankets.  In  spite  of  the  fact  that 
many  colors,  such  as  red,  blue,  green,  yellow,  and  white 
were  used  in  the  same  blanket,  the  combination  was  so 
harmonious  that  the  result  was  most  pleasing.  As  a  whole, 
the  work  somewhat  resembles  that  of  the  Navajos,  but  the 
texture  is  not  quite  as  fine.  They  also  work  attractive 
geometric  designs  into  the  pattern  that  immediately  dis- 
tinguishes the  product  of  this  region  from  that  of  any  other. 
This  is,  perhaps,  a  retention  of  an  ancient  custom,  for,  it 
seems  as  if  in  olden  times  the  inhabitants  of  each  locality 
wore  ponchos  or  blankets  of  a  distinctive  design;  then, 
when  the  nation  gathered  in  the  holy  city  of  Cuzco  to  cele- 
brate some  religious  festival,  it  was  possible  to  tell  by  these 
insignia  from  which  part  of  the  empire  they  came. 

From  Cghilka  to  Sucre  is  a  distance  of  only  eighteen 
miles,  over  a  practically  level  plain,  the  elevation  of  which 


348  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

is  in  the  neighborhood  of  ten  thousand  feet.  There  are 
few  habitations  until  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city  is 
reached. 

The  approach  to  Sucre  is  quite  attractive.  We  could 
see  the  assemblage  of  dazzling  white  edifices  from  a  dis- 
tance; and  not  long  after  we  were  galloping  over  the  cobble- 
stones between  rows  of  neat,  clean  buildings  on  our  way 
to  the  Hotel  Espanol.  In  our  journey  from  Cochabamba 
we  had  travelled  nearly  a  thousand  miles,  and  counting 
the  several  delays,  had  spent  fifty-six  days  en  route. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

SUCRE,  THE   RIO   PILCOMAYO,  AND   THE    UPLAND 
DESERT  TO  THE   ARGENTINE   FRONTIER 

THE  inhabitants  of  Sucre  insist  that  their  city  is  still 
the  capital  of  the  country,  and  that  the  removal  of  the 
government  to  La  Paz  is  temporary  only,  owing  to  the 
greater  accessibility  of  the  latter  place.  They  are  confident 
that  with  the  completion  of  the  railroad  from  Potosi  the 
old  regime  will  return,  and  with  it  the  gayety  and  activi- 
ties that  such  an  event  occasions.  This,  however,  does 
not  seem  probable. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  plateau  over  nine  thousand  feet 
up,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  Indian  village  known  as  Cho- 
quesaka.  Its  climate  is  that  of  perpetual  spring.  The 
streets  are  very  wide,  paved  with  cobblestones,  and  are 
kept  exceedingly  clean.  The  buildings  are,  for  the  greater 
part,  low,  although  edifices  of  pretentious  dimensions  and 
imposing  appearance  are  not  lacking,  and  numbers  of  most 
attractive  summer  homes  dot  the  surrounding  country. 
The  Medical  Institute  is  well-known  throughout  the  neigh- 
boring republics,  and  annually  supplies  them  with  thou- 
sands of  tubes  of  vaccine.  The  markets  are  abundantly 
supplied  with  provisions  of  all  kinds,  at  reasonable  prices, 
including  many  fruits  and  vegetables  of  a  temperate  cli- 
mate— brought  from  the  eastern  lowlands. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  upper  class  are  well  educated, 
refined,  and  charming.  There  is  a  total  population  of  about 
twenty-five  thousand,  but  by  far  the  greater  part  of  it  con- 
sists of  Quechuas  and  Cholos.  As  a  whole,  Sucre  is  one  of 
the  most  delightful  spots  in  all*Bolivia  and,  when  the  vast 
country  to  the  east  with  its  unlimited  resources  is  made 
accessible,  the  city  will  unquestionably  enjoy  the  growth 
and  prosperity  to  which  it  is  so  well  entitled. 

349 


350  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

However,  South  American  cities,  with  few  exceptions, 
possess  little  attraction  for  me.  I  touch  upon  them  almost 
reluctantly,  and  am  impatient  to  return  to  the  wild,  free 
life  of  the  boundless  jungle,  desert,  or  plain. 

Within  a  few  days  after  reaching  Sucre,  our  necessary 
business  affairs  had  been  looked  after  and  we  had  decided 
upon  the  upper  Rio  Pilcomayo  as  our  next  field  of  opera- 
tions. Pack-mules  were  not  to  be  had;  the  few  patrones 
who  owned  herds  of  these  very  necessary  beasts  were  all 
en  route  to  or  from  Cochabamba.  A  weekly  motor-bus 
service  is  maintained  between  Sucre  and  Potosi,  and  the 
powerful  cars  passed  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  spot  we 
decided  to  visit;  but  the  list  of  waiting  passengers  was  long, 
and  even  though  a  little  monetary  persuasion  might  have 
been  helpful  in  securing  an  early  passage  for  ourselves,  the 
transportation  of  our  luggage  by  that  means  was  out  of 
the  question.  We  therefore  secured  the  services  of  a  coche. 
Six  mules  hitched  to  a  lumbering  vehicle  that  had  seats 
inside  for  ourselves,  with  the  luggage  festooned  about  the 
exterior,  took  us  thundering  over  the  rocky,  uneven  road 
at  a  fast  pace.  The  driver  sat  in  front  and  diligently  plied 
a  long,  thin  whip  that  cracked  with  reports  like  those  of  a 
pistol,  but  inflicted  little  punishment  on  the  mules,  while 
a  Quechua  boy  ran  alongside  and  encouraged  onward  the 
panting  animals  with  ear-splitting  whistling  and  volleys  of 
stones.  I  was  never  able  to  understand  how  these  urchins 
could  keep  up  the  fast  gait  maintained  by  the  mules,  and 
at  the  same  time  have  sufficient  wind  left  with  which  to 
do  the  whistling. 

Within  an  hour  after  leaving  Sucre  we  had  reached  a 
point  where  the  road  ran  along  the  rim  of  an  attractive 
valley  filled  with  trees,  shrubbery,  flowers,  and  pools;  a 
number  of  queer  structures  combining  Chinese,  Arabian, 
Greek,  and  several  other  styles  of  architecture,  were  scat- 
tered about  promiscuously  and  detracted  greatly  from  the 
natural  beauty  of  the  spot.  This  place,  known  as  El  Recreo 
is  the  property  of  a  Bolivian  woman  who  calls  herself  a 


THE  ARGENTINE  FRONTIER  351 

princess,  and  who  for  reasons  unknown  to  me  makes  her 
home  in  far  away  Paris. 

Soon  after  leaving  El  Recreo  with  its  lovely  vegetation 
and  disfiguring  minarets,  stained  glass,  and  other  hall-marks 
of  poor  taste,  the  large  town  of  Yotala  was  reached.  Yotala 
is  well-known  throughout  Bolivia  for  the  excellent  quality 
of  the  peaches  and  apricots  that  are  grown  and  preserved 
there;  and  locally  it  enjoys  the  reputation  of  producing 
the  best  bread  of  the  vicinity,  although  I  could  never  agree 
with  the  latter  assertion.  The  finest  bread  we  had  in  all 
Bolivia  was  prepared  by  the  hospitable  senora  living  on 
the  banks  of  the  Pilcomayo,  and  in  one  of  whose  huts  we 
resided  the  following  eight  days. 

After  an  hour's  halt  at  a  house  called  Pulque,  where  the 
mules  were  fed  and  watered,  and  where  we  refreshed  our- 
selves with  weak  coffee  at  thirty  centavos  the  cup,  we  re- 
sumed the  journey,  and  3  o'clock  P.  M.,  found  us  on  the 
bank  of  the  great  river  we  had  sought — having  come  a  dis- 
tance of  nine  leagues  since  7.30  o'clock  that  morning. 

The  Pilcomayo  at  this  point  varies  in  width  from  a  few 
hundred  feet  to  half  a  mile,  is  crossed  by  a  suspension  bridge, 
and  flows  between  high,  barren,  rocky  hills.  There  was 
comparatively  little  water,  but  the  current  was  strong. 
For  me  the  Pilcomayo  possesses  an  unusual  fascination. 
While  looking  at  the  hurrying,  muddy  torrent  underneath, 
I  could  not  help  picturing  the  awe-inspiring  stretches  of 
wilderness  through  which  those  same  waters  must  flow 
before  mingling  with  the  less  fearsome  Paraguay  hundreds 
of  miles  farther  down:  little-known  savages  indulging  in 
wild  orgies  and  cannibalistic  dances  on  its  banks,  or  pad- 
dling silently  and  mysteriously  on  its  glassy  bosom  to  some 
jungle  rendezvous  unknown  to  white  men;  jaguars  eagerly 
lapping  up  a  refreshing  draft  after  a  gory  meal  of  deer  or 
peccary;  myriads  of  piranas  lashing  its  surface  into  spray 
in  their  mad  struggles  to  tear  the  flesh  off  some  struggling, 
despairing  victim;  lines  of  crocodiles  sunning  themselves 
on  mud-banks  or  slowly  patrolling  the  water's  edge,  like 


352  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

drifting  logs,  with  only  the  ever-vigilant  eyes  showing  the 
faintest  animation;  boundless  wastes  of  pestilential  swamps 
and  lagoons,  where  mosquitoes  and  other  obnoxious  insects 
in  clouds  forestall  the  advent  of  man,  but  where  millions 
of  egrets,  storks,  cormorants,  and  other  water-loving  birds 
find  a  safe  haven  and  lead  their  wild,  joyous  lives  in  blissful 
ignorance  of  despoiling  plume-hunters;  but,  a  shout  of 
"  Ya  estd,  senvr"  from  the  mule-driver  reminded  me  of  the 
fact  that  day-dreams  must  soon  end.  The  man  had  un- 
loaded the  luggage  at  a  little  hut  surrounded  by  shade-trees 
and  fields  of  alfalfa.  He  had  been  unable  to  find  the  owner, 
but  thought  we  could  arrange  to  stay  there  should  that 
personage  appear.  Most  important  of  all,  he  wanted  his 
money — and  then  he  was  off  with  twenty-seven  miles  of 
up-hill  road  ahead  of  him,  before  reaching  Sucre  that 
night. 

While  taking  stock  of  our  outfit  and  arranging  it  conve- 
niently in  the  little  adobe  hovel  that  was  to  serve  as  our 
home,  an  elderly  Bolivian  woman  came  from  one  of  the 
alfalfa-fields  near  by,  and  I  rightly  guessed  that  she  was 
the  owner  of  the  property.  To  my  request  that  we  be  per- 
mitted to  remain,  she  promptly  replied  that  she  would 
consider  it  an  honor  to  have  us  do  so.  I  wondered  if  there 
are  many  places  in  our  own  country  where  courtesy  to 
utter  strangers  is  so  universal  as  in  Spanish  America.  Fre- 
quently, after  long  and  trying  journeys  afoot  or  on  mule- 
back  (sometimes  of  hundreds  of  miles)  our  appearance 
was  disreputable;  but  with  one  or  two  exceptions  only  during 
the  entire  course  of  my  travels  in  South  America,  the 
kindness  and  politeness  of  the  inhabitants  was  unfailing. 
When  we  left  the  Pilcomayo,  the  senora  accepted  not  a 
cent  of  payment. 

The  country  for  many  miles  about  was  arid,  excepting 
only  the  few  irrigated  flats  near  the  river  where  fodder, 
grain,  and  vegetables  grew  luxuriantly.  Cacti  and  thorny 
shrubbery  dotted  the  slopes,  but  even  these  plants  of  the 
dry  lands  were  not  abundant.  Numerous  small  streams 


Rio  Cachimayo  at  Peras  Pampa,  Sucre. 


Bridge  across  the  Rio  Pilcomayo. 


THE  ARGENTINE  FRONTIER  353 

empty  into  the  river  during  the  wet  months;  but  now  (No- 
vember) their  courses  were  dry  and  parched. 

Birds  were  plentiful,  but  the  species  varied  little  from 
those  typical  of  the  uplands.  However,  they  were  nesting 
and  this  circumstance  furnished  a  new  and  interesting  field 
for  study. 

One  of  our  first  walks  took  us  to  an  old  mill,  fallen  into 
decay  through  neglect.  There  were  hundreds  of  dollars' 
worth  of  machinery  ruined  through  lack  of  care  and  the 
use  of  improper  lubricants.  I  have  frequently  seen  ma- 
chinery of  various  kinds,  ranging  from  typewriters  and 
sewing-machines  to  Pelton  wheels,  seriously  damaged  be- 
cause lard  or  tallow  had  been  used  instead  of  oil,  and  the 
wearing  surfaces  never  cleaned.  In  one  of  the  dust  chutes 
a  pair  of  chestnut  flycatchers  (Hirundined)  had  built  a 
flimsy  nest  of  twigs  and  feathers.  It  contained  two  cream- 
colored  eggs  speckled  with  red.  The  birds  remained  in 
the  vicinity  all  day  long  and  paid  no  attention  to  the  In- 
dians working  near  by,  but  when  a  dog  chanced  to  pass 
they  darted  at  it  furiously,  making  quick  dashes  at  its  head 
and  snapping  their  bills  with  a  loud,  popping  noise.  An- 
other pair  of  birds  of  the  same  species  had  a  nest  above 
the  door  of  a  near-by  house. 

Leaf-cutting  finches  also  called  tooth-billed  finches 
(Phytotoma),  were  very  abundant.  The  inhabitants  de- 
stroyed them  whenever  possible,  as  the  birds  cut  the  blos- 
soms off  the  fruit-trees  and  grape-vines.  The  bright, 
saffron-breasted  male  sat  in  the  top  of  some  thorny  bush 
and  uttered  queer,  unmusical  wails  that  reminded  us  of  the 
mewing  of  a  forlorn  alley  cat,  while  his  gray-and-black- 
striped  mate  incubated  the  eggs  in  a  small  but  compact 
nest  hidden  farther  down  among  the  spine-armed  branches. 
We  examined  numbers  of  the  nests;  each  one  contained 
three  eggs  of  a  deep-green  color,  marked  with  a  few  black 
lines  about  the  large  end. 

Oven-birds  built  their  dome-shaped  mud  nests  on  fence- 
posts  or  the  larger  branches  of  the  few  poplar-trees  that 


354  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

had  been  planted  about  the  huts  for  shade,  and  sang  in 
unison  from  dawn  to  dusk  as  if  their  hearts  were  overflow- 
ing with  happiness. 

Parrakeets  had  excavated  holes  in  the  face  of  steep  banks, 
and  chattered  and  quarrelled  noisily  over  their  domestic 
affairs.  I  suspect  that  they  also  appropriated  the  cavities 
prepared  by  swallows,  as  there  seemed  to  be  frequent  dis- 
putes between  these  neighbors. 

Of  humming-birds  there  were  a  number  of  species,  in- 
cluding the  giant  hummer,  which  was  truly  monarch  of  all 
he  surveyed,  for  when  one  appeared  the  smaller  members 
of  the  group  found  it  advantageous  to  depart  to  other 
regions.  Doctor  Frank  M.  Chapman,  in  Chile,  saw  an  in- 
dividual of  this  species  pursue  and  catch  in  its  claws  a  small 
humming-bird  and  fly  away  with  it;  for  what  purpose  he 
did  not  know,  unless  from  "sheer  cussedness."  It  is  a  well- 
known  fact  that  hummers  possess  a  pugnacious  disposi- 
tion, are  almost  constantly  fighting  among  themselves,  and 
frequently  pursue  and  strike  at  large  birds  such,  as  fly- 
catchers and  even  hawks,  apparently  for  no  reason  other 
than  the  pleasure  it  affords  them  to  torment  their  victims. 

One  afternoon  we  had  the  first  indication  of  the  coming 
rainy  season  in  the  form  of  a  severe  rain  and  thunder-storm. 
Before  long  the  river  was  a  seething,  muddy  torrent  that 
continued  to  rise  rapidly  until  well  into  the  night.  The 
next  morning  the  water  had  subsided  to  its  low  level,  leav- 
ing numbers  of  fish  of  several  kinds  stranded  in  depressions 
in  the  playas.  A  flock  of  caracaras  appeared  with  daylight 
and,  wading  daintily  into  the  shallow  pools,  extracted  and 
devoured  the  stranded  and  helpless  fish  at  their  leisure. 

Not  long  after  we  were  fortunate  in  meeting  an  American 
by  the  name  of  Kolle,  who  was  in  the  employ  of  a  wealthy 
Bolivian  owning  estates  in  various  parts  of  the  country. 
To  one  of  these  we  were  subsequently  invited,  but  before 
accepting  the  invitation  of  the  affluent  senor  we  decided 
to  spend  a  few  days  at  Pulque  where  some  variation  in  the 
avifauna  from  the  upland  type  had  been  noticed.  We  had 


THE  ARGENTINE  FRONTIER  355 

also  seen  numbers  of  Quechuas  apparently  living  in  much 
the  same  manner  as  their  predecessors  during  the  .height 
of  the  Inca's  glory. 

As  frequently  occurs  in  semiarid  country,  and  as  I  have 
stated  before,  birds  were  very  abundant;  but  there  was 
little  else  to  indicate  the  close  proximity  of  other  forms  of 
life  unless  one  took  into  account  the  herds  of  goats  clamber- 
ing about  on  the  steep  ledges  and  seeming  to  delight  in 
bombarding  with  showers  o£  small  stones  every  one  who 
passed  below;  or  the  caravans  of  burros  and  llamas  passing 
on  the  main  highway.  A  visit  to  the  nebulous  peaks  of 
the  adjacent  mountains,  however,  revealed  a  different  story. 
Patches  of  green  dotted  the  isolated  little  depressions  to 
which  the  name  "valleys"  can  hardly  be  given,  and  thin 
pillars  of  smoke  ascended  from  them  straight  into  a  cloud- 
less sky.  After  long  and  patient  looking  a  small,  stone 
hut  set  among  rocks  would  invariably  be  discovered,  and 
sometimes  we  could  even  distinguish  minute,  moving  forms 
which  we  knew  were  Indians.  There,  tucked  away  among 
the  towering  peaks  they  love  so  well,  they  were  living  a 
life  of  peace  and  plenty,  apparently  safe  from  the  gaze  of 
vulgar  interlopers,  and  knowing  or  caring  little  about  the 
outer  world.  It  was  as  if  one  tore  a  page  from  the  history 
of  bygone  centuries,  or  found  himself  suddenly  transferred 
into  the  midst  of  a  contented,  pastoral  community  as  must 
have  existed  in  places  unnumbered  throughout  the  vast 
Incan  Empire  before  its  despoliation  by  the  gold-crazed 
invaders.  In  this  connection  it  might  be  well  to  go  back 
briefly  into  the  history  of  the  events  that  brought  about 
the  present  state  of  affairs. 

The  boundaries  of  the  Incan  Empire  had  been  gradually 
extended  until  within  five  hundred  years  after  the  arrival 
of  Mamo  Capac  and  Mama  Occlo,  supposed  Children  of 
the  Sun,  it  covered  nearly  one-third  of  the  South  American 
continent.  Near  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  when 
Pizarro  and  his  insatiable  band  invaded  the  sacred  pre- 
cincts of  Atahualpa's  dominion,  the  star  of  the  Inca  seemed 


356  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

to  have  reached  the  apex  of  its  ascendancy.  Under  the 
beneficent  rule  of  their  venerated  sovereign  the  several  tribes 
lived  contentedly,  if  not  always  peaceably;  agriculture 
thrived,  arts  and  crafts  were  encouraged  and,  responsive 
to  the  efforts  of  many  thousands  of  laborers,  numerous 
mines  poured  a  constant  stream  of  precious  metals  into 
the  kingdom,  adding  to  its  wealth  and  splendor. 

We  are  all  familiar  with  accounts  of  the  advanced  state 
of  civilization,  governmental  organization,  and  fabulous 
riches  of  the  ancient  nation.  Temples,  palaces  and  forts — 
stately  edifices  of  hewn  stone — dotted  the  mountainsides 
and  crowned  the  eminences;  beautifully  constructed  high- 
ways connected  many  of  the  remote  districts  with  the  cap- 
ital; countless  herds  of  llamas  fed  on  the  slopes,  and  streams 
of  water  flowing  through  a  system  of  aqueducts  poured  into 
the  heretofore  arid  wastes  and  transferred  them  into  fruit- 
ful fields  capable  of  supporting  a  numerous  population. 
The  present-day  republics  of  Ecuador,  Peru,  Bolivia,  as 
well  as  a  part  of  Colombia  and  Chile,  were  included  within 
the  limits  of  the  vast  kingdom. 

Suddenly  a  dark  cloud  appeared  on  the  horizon,  and 
omens  of  evil  import  presaged  the  downfall  of  all  this  great- 
ness and  splendor.  The  fatal  apparition  quickly  assumed 
the  form  of  bearded  strangers,  some  of  whom  were  mounted 
on  terrible  beasts  which  filled  the  ranks  of  Indian  warriors 
with  panic,  and  who  seemed  to  have  succeeded  in  harnessing 
the  thunder  and  lightning  for  the  furtherance  of  their  wicked 
designs.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  before  the  avarice  of  the 
Spaniards  had  been  abated,  eight  million  subjects  of  the 
Inca  perished  and  the  organization  of  the  nation  was  de- 
stroyed. With  the  single  exception  of  the  Aztecs  of  Mexico, 
who  were  practically  exterminated  by  the  same  people, 
there  has  never  been  another  example  of  such  rapid  and 
complete  devastation  in  the  history  of  the  world. 

'  The  Quechua  of  to-day  is  a  cowed,  almost  pathetic,  in- 
dividual; he  has  been  kicked  about  by  the  descendants  of 
the  conquistadores  until  he  has  learned  to  become  reconciled 


THE  ARGENTINE  FRONTIER  357 

to  his  lot;  but  while  it  seems  as  if  this  recognition  might, 
in  many  instances  at  least,  give  way  to  despair,  such  is  not 
the  case. 

The  partiality  of  the  Quechuas  for  the  high  puna  is 
well  known — some  of  the  ancient  dwellings  having  been 
discovered  at  an  elevation  of  more  than  seventeen  thou- 
sand feet. 

Those  living  near  Pulque  seldom  come  down  into  the 
lower  country;  doubtless  they  are  happier  in  their  almost 
inaccessible  fastness  than  if  they  lived  nearer  to  their  Bo- 
livian neighbors.  In  appearance  and  dress  these  Indians 
differ  greatly  from  the  other  members  of  the  tribe  living 
in  the  more  populous  sections  of  the  country.  Instead  of 
the  more  or  less  conventional  attire  adopted  by  the  latter, 
they  still  adhere  to  a  form  of  dress  at  least  a  part  of  which 
may  date  back  to  the  time  of  Atahualpa.  The  women  wear 
a  quantity  of  clothing — short,  full  skirts  of  dark  blue,  and 
shawls  of  varied  colors.  The  men  are  garbed  in  loose,  white 
knee-breeches,  a  gray  or  blue  shirt,  and  belts  which  are 
neatly  embroidered  in  gay  colors  and  are  very  wide  at  the 
back  so  that  they  form  a  kind  of  sash;  also,  they  wear  the 
inevitable  poncho.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  small 
children  always  wear  very  long  clothing,  and  the  little 
girls  waddling  along  in  their  full,  almost  trailing  skirts, 
resemble  dwarfed  aged  women.  All  the  apparel  is  made 
of  woollen  cloth  of  home  manufacture.  The  men  permit 
their  hair  to  grow  long  and  braid  it  in  a  queue  which 
hangs  down  the  back.  Both  sexes  use  peculiar  little  hats 
made  of  some  kind  of  skin  prepared  by  a  process  which 
renders  it  very  hard;  this  head-gear  reminded  me  of  steel 
helmets.  With  the  exception  of  huge  spoon-shaped  pins 
of  copper,  which  the  women  used  to  fasten  their  shawls, 
we  saw  no  metal  ornaments  or  jewelry  of  any  kind. 

The  home  life  of  these  Quechuas  is  tranquil  and  unevent- 
ful. Usually  the  little  stone  huts  contain  two  or  three  rooms ; 
potatoes,  avas,  and  other  produce  are  stored  in  one  of  them, 
and  the  rest  are  used  for  cooking  and  sleeping-quarters. 


358  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

In  very  cold  weather  a  fire  is  kept  burning  day  and  night, 
and  all  the  occupants  of  a  house  burrow  deep  into  a  pile 
of  sheepskins  and  blankets  close  to  the  smouldering  embers. 
We  persuaded  one  of  the  women  to  bring  goat's  milk  to 
camp  each  morning,  but  in  this  we  had  the  greatest  dif- 
ficulty. Only  by  payment  for  a  week's  supply  in  advance 
could  she  be  induced  to  perform  this  service.  With  past 
experiences  with  their  fellow  countrymen  these  Indians 
have  learned  to  regard  all  strangers  with  apprehension. 
On  several  occasions  we  had  ample  opportunity  to  observe 
how  the  average  paisano  treats  the  Quechua.  Should  night 
overtake  him  on  the  trail,  he  stops  at  the  nearest  hut  and 
demands  food  for  himself  and  his  horses.  In  the  event  that 
the  owner  has  nothing  to  offer,  he  draws  revolver  or  rifle 
and  shoots  any  fowls  that  may  be  running  about  or,  lacking 
these,  a  sheep  or  goat,  and  seizes  whatever  else  he  can  find. 
Should  he  see  an  attractive  blanket,  it  also  is  taken.  In 
the  morning  a  few  centavos  are  thrown  on  the  ground  and 
he  continues  on  his  journey. 

As  a  general  rule,  we  found  that  if  these  Indians  were 
treated  in  a  frank,  honest  manner  they  were  quite  amiable. 
The  little  woman  we  had  engaged  to  bring  us  milk  trudged 
down  from  the  mountain-top  daily  in  faithful  compliance 
with  her  obligations.  She  brought  cheese  also,  and  oc- 
casionally a  few  eggs.  As  it  gradually  dawned  upon  her 
that  we  really  could  be  trusted,  she  became  talkative  and 
seemed  to  take  an  interest  in  our  occupation.  She  spoke 
Quechua  only  in  common  with  practically  that  entire  tribe, 
which  makes  no  attempt  to  learn  Spanish;  or,  if  they  are 
able  to  understand  it,  will  make  no  effort  to  speak  the 
language. 

Upon  seeing  a  woodpecker  we  had  collected,  she  gave 
a  sigh  of  satisfaction;  for,  according  to  the  Indian's  belief, 
they  are  birds  of  ill  omen.  If  a  pair  of  them  make  a  nest 
near  one  of  the  huts,  they  are  said  to  be  excavating  a  tomb 
for  a  member  of  the  family  who  will  soon  die.  Oven-birds 
are  looked  upon  with  favor  and  are  encouraged  to  remain 


bC 

' 


THE  ARGENTINE  FRONTIER  359 

in  the  vicinity  of  the  dwellings.  Should  a  pair  of  the  cheery 
singers  place  their  large,  domed  nest  of  mud  near  by,  good 
fortune  will  follow  in  their  wake.  Any  one  guilty  of  rob- 
bing a  bird's  nest  will  become  violently  ill;  but  as  birds 
flock  to  the  planted  areas  in  such  great  bands  that  an  ap- 
preciable amount  of  damage  is  done  to  the  fruit  and  ripen- 
ing grain,  their  increase  in  numbers  is  discouraged  by  filling 
many  nests  with  small  stones.  After  the  seeds  have  been 
planted,  a  network  of  strings  is  stretched  across  the  fields, 
and  sometimes  a  dead  hawk  suspended  from  a  post  in  the 
centre  serves  as  a  scarecrow  to  frighten  away  the  maraud- 
ing visitors.  When  the  crops  ripen,  a  small  boy  called  the 
" piscomanchachi"  is  stationed  in  each  sector.  He  is  armed 
with  a  sling  and  keeps  up  an  incessant  fusillade  of  stones; 
fortunately  his  aim  is  poor,  but  he  succeeds  in  killing  a  few 
birds  each  day. 

These  Quechuas  lead  a  sedentary  life.  There  are  no  more 
long,  arduous  journeys  to  far-away  Lake  Titicaca  and  Cuzco 
to  participate  in  solemn  festivals  and  gorgeous  pageants. 
Their  fields  supply  potatoes  as  of  yore,  and  they  still  con- 
vert the  tubers  into  then-  beloved  chuno  by  simply  allowing 
them  to  freeze  and  dry.  From  the  wheat  they  have  learned 
to  cultivate,  a  splendid  quality  of  bread  is  made.  Their 
flocks  provide  flesh  and  milk,  and  the  wool  so  essential  to 
the  preservation  of  human  life  and  well-being  in  the  high 
altitudes.  Tola  bushes  and  a  peaty  growth  known  as  yareta 
furnish  an  adequate  supply  of  fuel;  but  should  these  be 
lacking,  dung  is  used.  The  demands  of  civilization,  how- 
ever, will  alter  this  mode  of  existence  until  little  reniains 
to  remind  us  of  the  contented  nation  which  at  one  time 
willingly  bowed  to  the  rule  of  the  Children  of  the  Sun. 

Birds  were  not  quite  so  numerous  as  at  the  Pilcomayo, 
but  we  found  several  forms  new  to  us.  Among  them  was 
a  large,  white-fronted  parrakeet  (Myiopsitta  luchsf)  that 
we  saw  in  no  other  place.  It  banded  in  flocks  of  ten  to  fifty 
and  seemed  to  prefer  the  fruit-trees  near  the  house.  A 
species  of  humming-bird  built  nests  in  doorways  and  sus- 


360  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

pended  under  the  thatched  roofs  of  houses,  often  in  the 
midst  of  a  colony  of  swallows  (Atticord).  Tinamou  were 
not  uncommon  in  the  dry  ravines  and  provided  a  welcome 
change  from  the  goat-flesh  which  is  the  staple  meat  of  the 
people  and  the  only  kind  we  could  purchase;  the  latter 
animals  were  killed  when  very  young  (about  the  size  of  a 
cat),  and  we  could  never  become  enthusiastic  over  this, 
locally  considered,  great  delicacy. 

In  a  region  such  as  the  country  around  Pulque,  there  are 
few  available  nesting-sites,  and  nests  are  very  conspicuous 
objects  when  placed  in  a  cactus  or  thorny  bush;  however, 
the  sharp  thorns  and  spines  with  which  they  are  surrounded 
protect  them,  alike  from  predatory  animals  and  humans. 
The  disused  mud  nests  of  oven-birds  are  collected  as  needed 
and  made  into  a  poultice  that  is  supposed  to  cure  stomach- 
ache. Judging  by  the  quantity  they  gathered,  this  ailment 
must  be  of  frequent  occurrence.  A  bird  of  the  wood-hewer 
family  (Upucerthia)  excavated  burrows  in  banks  and  de- 
posited two  white  eggs  in  a  small,  feather-lined  nest  placed 
in  a  roomy  chamber  at  the  end  of  the  tunnel. 

The  senora  at  whose  rancho  we  stopped  complained  that 
tiger-cats  were  killing  her  chickens;  so  one  afternoon  I  set 
a  steel  trap  at  the  base  of  a  near-by  stone  wall,  baiting  it 
with  a  dead  bird.  I  had  not  gone  a  dozen  paces  from  the 
spot  when  the  trap  sprung  with  a  loud  twang,  securely  im- 
prisoning the  much-sought  culprit.  The  cat's  greed  had 
overcome  its  discretion,  at  which  we  rejoiced,  for  it  made 
a  desirable  addition  to  our  collection.  On  another  occasion 
one  of  these  beautiful  animals  bounded  out  from  under 
the  roots  of  a  huge  tree  and  seized  a  bird  as  I  was  stooping 
to  pick  it  up — and  made  a  clean  getaway  to  its  hiding- 
place  with  the  spoils. 

Our  hosts  on  the  Cachimayo  were  awaiting  us,  in  order 
that  we  might  be  present  at  the  ushering  in  of  the  "month 
of  baths,"  as  December  is  called  in  this  part  of  Bolivia. 
Whether  or  not  they  thought  we  were  in  need  of  the  daily 
ablutions,  I  am  unable  to  say;  but  this  I  do  know,  that  we 


THE  ARGENTINE  FRONTIER  361 

shocked  the  good  people  on  numerous  occasions  by  having 
a  swim  at  every  possible  opportunity,  even  if  the  month 
was  not  in  keeping  with  local  traditions. 

Peras  Pampa  is  an  immense  estate  on  both  sides  of  the 
Cachimayo,  and  but  an  hour's  trip  by  motor  from  Sucre. 
We  spent  a  delightful  ten  days  amid  pleasant  surroundings, 
living  in  a  comfortable  bungalow,  and  passing  the  evenings 
at  the  casa  grande  where  the  elite  of  Sucre's  society  gathered 
for  music,  games,  and  dancing. 

The  grounds  were  a  succession  of  orchards,  fields,  and 
vineyards.  Scores  of  Indians  lived  and  worked  on  the  place, 
cultivating,  the  ground,  building  stone  fences,  and  taking 
care  of  the  stock.  At  night  they  met  and  played  very  well 
on  reed  flutes  of  various  sizes,  each  musician  taking  a  sepa- 
rate part,  so  that  the  combined  effort  was  somewhat  like 
that  produced  by  a  well-organized  band.  Their  favorite 
piece  was  "Red- Wing" — apparently  learned  from  a  phono- 
graph record. 

The  evening  parties  were  always  enjoyable  affairs.  They 
began  with  a  sumptuous  dinner — including  several  kinds 
of  wine;  then  a  series  of  eight  or  ten  well-chosen  courses, 
followed  by  liqueurs  and  smoking.  The  women  did  not 
smoke. 

After  that  there  were  charades,  story-telling,  music,  sing- 
ing, dancing,  and  perhaps  a  walk  en  masse  in  the  moonlit 
grounds,  through  arbors  of  honeysuckle  and  other  flower- 
ing vines  and  over  paths  bordered  with  hedges  of  roses. 
There  were  always  more  refreshments  just  before  the  party 
broke  up  at  midnight.  All  the  Bolivians  we  met  at  Peras 
Pampa  were  charming,  and  we  heartily  regretted  that  our 
time  for  combined  work  and  play  was  not  unlimited. 

The  majority  of  the  people  who  formed  the  gay  evening 
crowd  lived  in  separate  cottages  on  the  estate — the  guests 
of  the  owner.  Each  day  they  repaired  faithfully  to  the 
river  for  a  dip,  although  the  water  was  usually  very  muddy, 
and  there  was  about  an  even  chance  whether  one  would 
emerge  without  yesterday's  coat  of  grime  or  with  an  ad- 


362  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

ditional  one.  December  is  chosen  for  this  purpose  because 
it  is  the  warmest  and  most  pleasant  month  of  the  year. 

The  time  allotted  us  for  work  in  Bolivia  had  nearly  ex- 
pired. We  had  thoroughly  enjoyed  our  lengthy  sojourn 
in  the  republic,  and  look  forward  to  revisiting  it  in  the  fu- 
ture. Our  schedule  called  for  rather  extensive  work  in  the 
Argentine,  so,  after  a  great  deal  of  difficulty,  we  succeeded 
in  collecting  a  caravan  of  riding  and  pack  mules  for  the 
ride  of  over  three  hundred  miles  to  La  Quiaca,  on  the  Ar- 
gentine frontier.  Ordinarily  the  trip  from  Sucre  to  La 
Quiaca  should  not  be  undertaken  on  mule-back.  One  should 
go  to  Potosi  in  one  day's  time,  utilizing  the  semiweekly 
motor-car  service.  A  railroad  connects  the  latter  place 
with  a  small  station  a  few  miles  this  side  of  Tupiza,  and 
from  this  point  one  may  reach  La  Quiaca  in  two  days  by 
carriage.  During  the  rainy  season,  however,  both  auto- 
mobile and  carriage  service  are  suspended;  and  the  dif- 
ficulty of  twice  securing  mules  on  which  to  cover  the  two 
stretches  of  road  between  railway  terminals  and  the  de- 
lays and  other  inconveniences  are  so  great  that  we  decided 
to  travel  the  entire  distance  with  a  pack-train.  This  also 
gave  us  an  opportunity  to  see  the  country. 

The  expedition  left  Sucre  December  22.  The  caravan 
was  appallingly  large,  for  we  were  taking  our  entire  out- 
fit, and  it  required  no  less  than  six  Quechuas  to  look  after 
the  mules  and  burros.  All  supplies,  also,  had  to  be  taken 
with  us,  as  very  little  is  to  be  had  from  the  Indians,  who 
are  virtually  the  sole  inhabitants  of  the  cheerless  highlands. 
There  are  a  number  of  large  villages,  it  is  true,  but  the  person 
who  relies  on  the  natives  for  maintenance  is  as  likely  as 
not  to  have  to  live  on  coca  and  chicha,  or  suffer  for  his  im- 
providence. 

By  noon  we  had  reached  the  Cachimayo  at  a  point  where, 
ordinarily,  it  is  fordable;  but  a  heavy  rain  had  caused  the 
river  to  rise  and  we  were  confronted  by  a  series  of  roaring 
cataracts  covered  with  foam  and  debris  washed  down  from 
the  mountains.  The  mules  were  unloaded  and  driven  into 


THE  ARGENTINE  FRONTIER  363 

a  corral.  Soon  other  caravans  arrived,  until  there  were 
several  hundreds  of  men  and  animals  gathered  on  the  river- 
bank.  We  spent  the  afternoon  strolling  through  the  ad- 
jacent apricot-orchards  and  vineyards.  The  former  trees 
were  laden  with  fruit,  all  ripening;  it  was  small  in  size, 
but  of  delicious  flavor.  By  seven  o'clock  the  water  had  sub- 
sided many  feet,  and  one  of  the  arrieros  having  previously 
ridden  across  the  river  to  test  its  depth,  the  caravan  started 
across.  The  stream  was  three  hundred  feet  wide  and  the 
current  very  strong,  so  that  crossing  it  seemed  an  endless 
operation;  the  mules  struggled  onward  gamely,  but  to  the 
rider  it  seemed  as  if  they  stood  stock-still  while  a  maze  of 
rushing  water  seethed  and  raged  all  around  him  in  frantic 
efforts  to  sweep  away  everything  in  its  path.  Our  own 
animals  got  across  safely,  although  some  of  the  packs  were 
drenched;  but  a  long  train  of  burros  laden  with  huge  boxes 
of  the  popular  Sucrenses  cigarettes  fared  badly,  and  a  number 
of  the  poor  creatures  were  upset  and  whirled  away  down- 
stream. We  continued  onward  in  the  darkness  two  leagues 
to  Poste  Escalera,  a  lone  hut  on  a  hillside,  and  spent  a  try- 
ing night  at  this  flea-infested  post.  Next  day  we  reached 
the  Pilcomayo  at  a  point  where  the  river  is  divided  into 
many  narrow  channels,  although  there  is  one  main  stream 
spanned  by  a  swaying  wooden  bridge. 

A  detailed  narration  of  each  day's  ride  would  mean  the 
recounting  of  practically  the  same  things.  There  were, 
however,  a  few  things  of  unusual  interest,  and  these  will 
be  mentioned  later. 

The  country  is  dry,  rolling,  and  unproductive.  In  some 
places  there  is  a  sparse  growth  of  cacti  and  thorny  shrub- 
bery, but  vast  areas  are  rocky  and  barren  of  all  vegetation. 
We  crossed  ridge  after  ridge,  the  elevation  of  the  trail  vary- 
ing between  eight  thousand  and  twelve  thousand  feet. 
Travel  in  this  type  of  country  is  most  trying.  Water  is  so 
scarce  that  long  distances  must  be  covered  in  order  to  find 
suitable  camping-sites;  in  one  instance  we  were  compelled 
to  ride  thirty-six  miles  in  the  course  of  a  day,  between 


364  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

streams.  The  temperature  varies  100°  each  twenty-four 
hours.  At  two  in  the  afternoon  the  thermometer  registered 
132°  F.;  at  night  ice  formed  on  the  water  in  our  pails. 

Christmas  day  was  spent  at  Puno,  with  every  member 
of  the  party  ill  from  the  effects  of  the  climatical  changes. 
The  inhabitants  went  about  their  occupations  as  usual, 
quite  ignoring  this  all-important  opportunity  for  a,  fiesta. 

All  the  dwellings  of  the  Indians  were  made  of  adobe.  In 
the  walls  of  some  of  them  rows  of  disused  earthenware 
pots  had  been  used  as  building  material.  When  the  huts 
crumbled,  a  fine  collection  of  pottery  was  covered  up  in  the 
mound.  This  is  probably  an  ancient  custom  and  may  ac- 
count for  much  of  the  material  found  in  old  ruins  to-day. 

Two  days  later,  the  last  of  the  long,  weary  miles  across 
the  cheerless  upland  had  been  left  behind,  and  at  noon  we 
galloped  briskly  into  Villazon,  on  the  Bolivian  side  of  the 
border. 

Villazon  contains  about  a  score  of  scattered,  low,  adobe 
buildings.  We  arrived  on  a  Sunday,  when  the  custom- 
house was  closed,  but  the  officials  in  charge  very  courteously 
permitted  us  to  proceed  on  our  way.  A  brook  three  or  four 
feet  wide  separates  the  two  republics  and,  stepping  across 
this,  we  found  ourselves  in  La  Quiaca  and — in  Argentina. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 
BIRD-NESTING  IN  NORTHWESTERN  ARGENTINA 

LA  QUIACA  is  similar  in  size  and  appearance  to  Villazon, 
There  are  a  number  of  stores  or  trading-posts  where  miners 
from  the  surrounding  mountains  secure  their  outfits  and 
provisions.  It  is  also  the  terminus  of  the  railroad  from  the 
south.  One  may  go  by  rail  directly  to  Buenos  Aires.  The 
settlement  stands  on  a  level,  wind-swept  plateau,  and  the 
weather  was  very  cold.  The  neighboring  peaks  of  the  Andes 
are  rich  hi  mines,  and  multitudes  of  llamas  and  mules  come 
down  the  steep  trails  each  day,  laden  with  copper,  bismuth, 
silver  ore,  and  gold  ore.  They  discharge  their  burdens  at 
the  railroad-station,  where  it  is  loaded  on  cars  to  be  hauled 
to  the  smelters  in  Buenos  Aires. 

Our  object  in  coming  to  the  Argentine  was  to  continue 
the  biological  survey  we  had  carried  on  in  Bolivia;  and  also 
to  secure  specimens  of  a  rare  little  bird  (Scytalopus)  which 
was  thought  to  exist  in  the  province  of  Salta.  The  acquisi- 
tion of  this  bird  was  most  important  for  the  light  it  would 
throw  on  certain  problems  of  distribution. 

The  little  wren-like  birds  of  this  genus  (Scytalopus) ,  known 
commonly  as  "tapacolas,"  are  perhaps  among  the  most 
difficult  to  collect  of  any  species  in  South  America,  and  for 
this  reason  they  are  invariably  only  poorly  represented  in 
museum  collections.  Native  collectors,  hunting  mainly 
with  blow-guns,  have  gathered  many  thousands  of  birds, 
the  greater  number  of  which  have  eventually  found  their 
way  to  millinery  establishments  and  scientific  institutions 
in  many  parts  of  the  world;  but  usually  only  those  of  bril- 
liant plumage,  and  others  which  could  be  taken  with  little 
difficulty,  have  been  collected.  The  small,  slate-colored  or 
blackish  tapacolas,  found  only  in  the  densest  of  subtropical 
forests  or  among  the  tangled  vegetation  bordering  bleak, 

365 


366  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

frigid  paramos,  have  usually  been  overlooked.  This  is  not 
surprising  when  we  find  how  seldom  even  the  trained  field- 
naturalist  of  to-day  finds  it  possible  to  lure  the  tiny, 
feathered  creature  from  its  secure  retreat  among  the  mosses, 
roots,  and  ferns  to  which  its  mouse-like  habits  confine  it, 
and  how  rarely  he  succeeds  in  recovering  the  inconspicuously 
colored  bird  after  it  has  been  shot.  Even  after  a  long,  pa- 
tient search  has  revealed  the  specimen  lodged  somewhere 
in  the  deep  stratum  of  matted  plants,  it  is  by  no  means 
sure  of  reaching  the  museum;  I  know  of  instances  where 
birds,  slipping  from  the  hunter's  hands  and  dropping  at 
his  feet,  have  been  forever  lost  in  the  riot  of  vegetation 
which  everywhere  carpets  the  ground. 

Our  quest  for  this  little  creature  was  destined  to  extend 
over  a  period  of  months,  and  to  take  us  into  many  an  out- 
of-the-way  place.  We  were  eager  to  begin  the  search,  so 
took  the  first  available  train  which  left  La  Quiaca  two  days 
after  our  arrival  and  started  southward. 

Leaving  the  desolate  settlement,  the  railroad  winds  up- 
ward through  a  narrow,  rocky  gorge  to  the  station  Tres 
Cruces,  the  altitude  of  which  is  twelve  thousand  four  hun- 
dred feet.  There  it  descends  at  a  steep  grade — so  steep  in 
fact  that  a  rack  and  pinion  are  used  part  of  the  way.  The 
rocky  knobs  flanking  the  gorge  are  old  and  weathered  and 
very  picturesque.  A  small  stream  winds  back  and  forth 
across  a  boulder-strewn  course;  the  water  is  clear  and  cold. 
About  mid-afternoon  we  encountered  an  abrupt  change 
in  the  type  of  country.  The  bare  crags  and  narrow,  rocky 
floor  of  the  gorge  gave  way  to  a  wide  expanse  of  brush- 
covered  land  and  green  pasture.  This  change  was  first 
noticeable  at  a  small  station  called  Leon  (elevation  five 
thousand  feet);  the  vegetation  grew  thicker  and  the  land- 
scape more  inviting  as  we  continued  the  journey.  At  dusk 
we  reached  Jujuy,  a  city  of  some  pretensions;  the  build- 
ings are  attractive,  the  streets  are  broad,  and  the  people 
appeared  clean  and  intelligent.  Following  Jujuy  were 
numerous  small  towns  and  stations;  also  many  truck-farms 


BIRD-NESTING  IN  ARGENTINA  367 

owned  by  Italians  who  were  settling  in  Argentina  in  great 
numbers.  There  were  also  vast  green  meadows  in  which 
fine-looking  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  were  grazing. 

Our  first  stop  was  at  Salta.  The  journey  from  La  Quiaca 
had  required  fifteen  hours. 

Salta  has  about  thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  a 
modern  city.  It  possesses  wide,  paved  streets,  buildings 
of  imposing  dimensions,  electric  trolleys,  and  lights,  a  zoo- 
logical park,  good  hotels,  and  a  college.  The  contrast  be- 
tween being  in  a  city  where  comforts  and  luxuries  abounded, 
and  living  on  the  bleak,  Andean  uplands  amidst  stolid 
Quechuas  guarding  their  herds  of  llamas,  was  great,  and 
we  enjoyed  the  change  to  the  fullest  extent.  After  frozen 
potatoes  and  canned  provisions,  the  inviting  coffee-houses 
were  irresistible;  and  the  " movies"  made  us  forget  the 
miles  of  inhospitable  desert.  Fortunately  there  were 
enough  of  each  of  these  attractions  so  that  we  could  spend 
a  whole  day  visiting  them,  alternating  from  one  to  the  other, 
without  repeating. 

Our  first  headquarters  in  the  Argentine  were  made  at 
Rosario  de  Lerma,  one  hour  by  train  from  Salta.  This  is 
a  most  delightful  spot  and  afforded  rare  opportunities  for 
work  and  observation.  The  town  contains  about  one  hun- 
dred houses  and  is  surrounded  by  fields,  pastures,  and 
patches  of  low,  open  woods.  There  is  an  abundance  of 
water,  and  excellent  meat,  fruits,  and  vegetables  may  be 
had  in  abundance.  The  people  are  industrious  and  of  good 
appearance,  and  treated  us  courteously. 

We  soon  discovered  that  in  Argentina  we  were  not  at 
liberty  to  carry  on  our  work  in  any  place  or  manner  that 
suited  our  purpose;  in  other  words,  there  were  game-laws, 
closed  and  open  seasons,  and  it  was  necessary  to  secure 
permits  from  the  owners  of  all  lands  on  which  we  proposed 
to  hunt.  Of  all  these  restrictions  we  were  ignorant,  and 
spent  a  blissful  three  days  doing  as  we  pleased;  then  a  ser- 
geant of  police  called  and  notified  us  that  we  were  under 
arrest,  and  to  call  at  headquarters  as  soon  as  convenient. 


368  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

I  lost  no  time  in  going  to  see  the  chief,  explained  the  nature 
of  our  work  to  him,  and  then  acting  on  his  suggestion  took 
the  next  train  to  Salta  to  get  a  permit  which  entitled  us 
to  hunt  anywhere  within  that  province.  All  this  was  ac- 
complished within  a  few  hours.  The  various  officials  with 
whom  I  came  in  contact  were  most  courteous  and  obliging. 

Our  study  of  bird-nesting  at  Rosario  de  Lerma  was  con- 
fined largely  to  observing  the  parasitic  habits  of  the  black 
cowbird  (Molothrus  b.  bonariensis) ,  referred  to  by  the  Span- 
ish-speaking people  as  the  "tordo."  The  bird  usually 
called  tordo,  however,  is  a  species  of  oriole,  highly  esteemed 
as  a  cage  bird  on  account  of  its  not  unmusical  singing 
ability.  This  bird  is  of  slender,  graceful  build,  about  the 
size  of  a  red-winged  blackbird,  and  of  a  uniform  glossy, 
purplish-black  color  except  on  the  wings  and  tail,  which 
have  a  pronounced  greenish  sheen.  The  female  is  of  a  dark, 
ashy-brown  color. 

We  saw  flocks  of  them  daily  in  the  fields,  on  the  backs 
of  cattle  grazing  in  the  pastures,  in  the  courtyards  of  houses, 
in  corrals,  and  more  particularly  in  the  scattered  trees,  which 
were  almost  certain  to  contain  at  least  one  nest  of  the  oven- 
bird  (Furnarius)  or  of  some  species  of  brush-bird  (Phacel- 
lodomus).  Usually  the  flocks  were  composed  of  from  ten 
to  twelve  individuals,  the  bright,  glossy  males  outnumber- 
ing the  dull,  grayish  females  in  the  proportion  of  four  to 
one.  Azara  gives  the  proportion  of  males  to  females  as 
ten  to  one,  but  this  disparity  is  too  great  for  any  part  of 
the  Argentine  known  to  me. 

The  birds  are  noisy,  keeping  up  a  loud  chatter,  especially 
where  a  flock  is  on  the  wing,  or  when  preparing  for  the 
night's  sleep.  The  male  bursts  into  a  short,  pretty  song 
with  frequency,  dropping  his  wings  and  moving  in  a  nervous 
manner  while  singing.  Apparently  the  female  does  not 
sing. 

It  has  been  said  that  the  females  of  this  species  lay  eggs 
during  a  period  of  three  or  four  months;  to  know  how  many 
are  laid  by  a  single  bird  would  be  interesting,  as  the  number 


BIRD-NESTING  IN  ARGENTINA  369 

must  be  very  great  in  order  to  make  allowance  for  the  in- 
calculable numbers  that  are  wasted,  and  still  provide  enough 
to  keep  the  ranks  of  the  multitudes  at  their  normal  level. 

We  did  not  find  a  single  egg  of  M .  b.  bonariensis  on  the 
ground,  although  Hudson  states  that  in  the  vicinity  of 
Buenos  Aires  these  birds  "frequently  waste  their  eggs  by 
dropping  them  on  the  ground." 

Dropping  the  eggs  on  the  ground  might  entail  a  deliberate 
waste,  as  we  know  of  no  reason  why  the  bird  should  sup- 
pose that  they  would  be  hatched  and  the  young  reared, 
if  scattered  broadcast  over  the  country.  On  the  other  hand, 
this  might  merely  indicate  that  the  birds  had  found  no  suit- 
able place  in  which  to  deposit  their  eggs.  The  form  of  waste 
caused  by  the  birds  laying  in  old,  disused  nests,  or  by  lay- 
ing such  a  large  number  of  eggs  in  a  single  nest  that  it  is 
impossible  for  the  rightful  owner  to  incubate  them  and 
rear  the  young,  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  deliberate,  as  it 
is  doubtless  caused  by  a  lack  of  intelligence;  if  the  bird  de- 
signedly scatters  its  eggs  broadcast  on  the  ground,  it  is 
wantonly  wasteful;  if  it  merely  lays  in  disused  nests,  or 
overcrowds  nests  actually  occupied,  the  bird  may  simply 
be  stupid. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  say  what  per  cent  of  eggs  laid 
by  this  species  of  cowbird  is  wasted.  Hudson  estimates 
that  each  female  lays  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  eggs  in  a 
single  season,  and  it  does  not  seem  to  me  that  this  state- 
ment is  an  exaggeration.  One  female  which  I  dissected  had 
laid  three  eggs  within  the  few  preceding  days,  and  a  fourth 
was  almost  ready  to  be  deposited. 

The  bird  which  suffers  most  from  the  parasitic  habits  of 
the  cowbird  in  the  vicinity  of  Rosario  de  Lerma,  is  the 
oven-bird  (Furnarius  rufv£);  however,  of  the  great  num- 
ber of  eggs  laid  in  the  nests  of  the  above-named  species, 
our  observations  tend  to  show  that  the  greater  part 
are  lost.  Among  the  scores  of  oven-bird  nests  which  we 
examined,  only  two  were  still  occupied  by  the  owners,  the 
desertion  being  apparently  due  to  the  invasion  of  the  cow- 


370  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

birds.  So  persecuted  were  the  oven-birds  that  it  is  difficult 
to  understand  how  any  of  them  survived  in  this  immediate 
locality.  The  nests  were  common  enough,  it  being  not 
unusual  to  find  several  of  them  in  a  single  tree,  but  the  birds 
themselves  were  not  abundant.  It  is  possible  that  some  of 
the  pairs  may  have  built  several  nests  each  in  their  vain 
attempts  to  escape  the  attentions  of  the  cowbirds. 

In  no  instance  had  the  walls  or  top  of  the  oven-birds' 
nests  been  broken  or  perforated  in  any  manner,  in  order 
that  light  could  penetrate  to  the  interior;  they  were  not 
tampered  with  in  any  way,  and  the  cowbirds  seemed  con- 
tent to  use  them  just  as  the  oven-birds  had  constructed 
them. 

I  believe  that  the  greater  number  of  M.  b.  bonariensis 
that  reach  maturity  are  reared  by  the  smaller  birds,  such  as 
finches,  warblers,  and  vireos,  in  whose  nests  only  a  few  eggs 
are  laid,  which  increases  the  favorable  chances  of  their  in- 
cubation. Also,  the  larger  and  heavier  eggs  of  the  cowbird 
frequently  crush  at  least  a  part  of  the  smaller  eggs  which 
naturally  have  a  more  fragile  shell,  thus  forestalling  to  a 
marked  degree  the  competition  that  might  arise  between 
the  young  birds  in  the  nest. 

We  collected  about  two  hundred  eggs  of  this  species, 
nearly  all  of  them  at  Rosario  de  Lerma,  and  a  great  varia- 
tion in  marking  exists;  there  is  also  some  difference  in  color. 
As  a  general  rule  the  eggs  are  greenish  or  bluish,  rather 
heavily  spotted  with  reddish-brown;  in  a  very  few  speci- 
mens the  background  is  of  a  pale  flesh-color,  and  in  a  small 
number  of  others  it  approaches  white,  having,  however,  a 
dull  grayish  tinge;  of  the  entire  lot,  four  only  are  so  lightly 
marked  as  to  appear  unspotted.  Not  a  single  egg  is  pure 
white  or  has  a  pure  white  background  (my  standard  of  com- 
parison is  an  egg  of  the  oven-bird)  "like  the  eggs  of  birds 
that  breed  in  dark  holes":  the  majority  of  these  eggs  were 
taken  from  the  darkened  interiors  of  oven-birds7  nests. 

A  type  of  egg  not  uncommon  is  heavily  and  evenly 
marked  all  over  with  fine  dots  and  larger  spots  of  reddish- 


BIRD-NESTING  IN  ARGENTINA  371 

brown.  Judging  from  the  material  at  hand  I  should  say 
that  there  is  a  characteristic  type  of  marking  running 
through  the  eggs  of  the  species  if  we  except  the  two  ex- 
tremes, viz.,  those  almost  unspotted,  and  those  so  entirely 
covered  with  heavy  blotches  that  they  appear  to  be  of  a 
uniform  chocolate  color. 

However,  the  eggs  of  each  individual  seem  to  vary  in 
some  respect  from  those  of  any  other,  as  it  is  impossible 
to  find  two  exactly  alike  in  comparing  series  from  different 
places.  Frequently,  two  or  more  eggs  found  in  the  same 
nest  resemble  each  other  so  closely  in  size,  shape,  and  colora- 
tion, that  I  think  it  reasonably  safe  to  say  that  they  were 
laid  by  the  same  bird. 

The  nests  of  the  smaller  birds  contained  from  one  to  four 
eggs  of  these  parasites,  in  addition  to  those  of  the  rightful 
owners.  On  January  12,  I  opened  an  oven-bird  nest  and 
was  surprised  to  find  fifteen  cowbirds'  eggs  in  the  dark  in- 
terior. This  I  considered  a  record,  but  Boyle  brought  one 
in  on  the  same  day  containing  twenty-six  of  the  speckled 
eggs.  In  the  days  that  followed,  we  discovered  numerous 
"sets"  of  from  ten  to  twenty.  The  nest  that  contained 
the  final  record  number  was  found  January  16,  it  contained 
thirty-eight  eggs — one  of  the  oven-birds  and  thirty-seven 
of  the  cowbirds. 

Later,  we  again  met  these  old  acquaintances  wintering 
in  the  rice-fields  and  rush-grown  marshes  of  Tucuman. 

The  white  ani  (Guira  guira)  or  Guiraca,  first  seen  near 
Asuncion,  and  later  in  Bolivia,  was  plentiful  at  Rosario 
de  Lerma.  The  bird  was  usually  found  in  small  flocks  and 
fed  on  the  ground. 

We  found  several  of  their  nests  near  Rosario  de  Lerma. 
They  were  large,  loosely  built  of  sticks  and  placed  in  the 
crotch  of  a  cactus  or  other  thorny  plant,  at  no  great  height 
from  the  ground.  However,  the  nest  is  not  conspicuous 
in  spite  of  its  size. 

Pablo  Girard,  an  Argentine  naturalist,  informed  me  that 
these  birds  frequently  nest  in  communities  and  that  a 


372  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

number  of  females  lay  their  eggs  in  the  same  nest,  although 
this  is  not  always  the  case.  The  natives  verified  this  state- 
ment. This  seems  probable  as  I  at  no  time  saw  the  groups 
split  up  into  pairs;  on  the  contrary,  there  were  always 
numbers  of  birds  in  the  vicinity  of  each  domicile.  Our 
record  set  contained  twelve  eggs. 

After  ten  days  at  Rosario  de  Lerma,  we  returned  to  Salta 
and  then  took  the  train  to  Perico,  a  ride  of  three  and  a  half 
hours  northward.  At  this  station  a  branch  railroad  runs 
northeastward  into  Argentina's  vast  Chaco  region.  The 
track  was  being  extended  as  rapidly  as  labor  and  material 
can  be  obtained  for  the  work,  and  we  desired  to  go  to  the 
end  of  the  line  where  is  located  a  station  called  Embarca- 
cion.  Before  starting  on  this  journey,  however,  we  spent 
some  time  at  points  noted  on  the  downward  journey  from 
La  Quiaca.  Perico  is  a  busy  little  town,  owing  its  activity 
to  the  traffic  occasioned  by  the  railroad  junction.  The 
buildings  are  low  and  dilapidated,  and  most  of  them  con- 
sist of  a  shop,  or  venta,  in  front,  with  living-rooms  in  the 
rear. 

The  shops  are  always  worthy  of  exploration.  In  some, 
huge  piles  of  watermelons  were  displayed  for  sale;  others 
offered  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  still  others  groceries  and 
dry-goods.  Drinking-places  were  abundant. 

We  were  particularly  interested  to  find  numbers  of  rhea 
eggs  on  sale  in  the  outdoor  market.  They  brought  forty 
centavos  each  and  were  delicious;  the  contents  of  each  was 
equal  to  about  a  dozen  hen's  eggs.  I  was  told  that  they 
were  gathered  from  the  nests  of  wild  birds  in  the  Chaco. 
Each  nest  contains  from  ten  to  twenty  or  even  thirty  eggs, 
which  are  more  than  one  man  can  carry.  When  fresh,  the 
shell  is  of  a  deep  cream-color;  after  incubation  has  started 
or  if  the  egg  is  addled,  the  color  is  pale,  ashy  gray.  The 
birds  are  killed  and  eaten — the  flesh  resembling  that  of  a 
goat's  in  flavor. 

One  day  a  number  of  Indians  arrived  from  San  Pedro. 
They  brought  huge  baskets  and  crates  of  young  amazon 


BIRD-NESTING  IN  ARGENTINA  373 

parrots.  These  birds  are  taken  when  very  young  from  nests 
placed  in  the  cavities  of  trees,  and  are  reared  by  hand  until 
they  are  able  to  eat  unaided.  Usually  two  are  found  in 
a  nest — occasionally  three.  They  also  brought  a  tame 
coypu  rat  and  several  three-banded  armadillos. 

Perico  is  surrounded  by  miles  of  cattle  lands,  light  woods, 
and  limited  areas  covered  with  vegetation  of  a  semiarid 
type.  In  the  latter  places  small  deer  or  brockets  are  not 
uncommon;  they  hide  in  the  low,  thorny  growth  of  Spanish 
bayonet  until  one  is  within  a  few  yards  of  them,  then  dash 
away  at  great  speed;  the  inhabitants  hunt  them  with  dogs 
trained  for  the  purpose,  and  rarely  fail  to  bag  their  quarry, 
though  usually  after  a  long  chase. 

We  found  the  coral-billed  tinamou  not  uncommon  in 
the  wooded  districts.  They  are  essentially  birds  of  the 
tree-covered  regions  and  are  difficult  to  secure  on  account 
of  their  terrestrial  habits,  and  also  owing  to  the  fact  that 
they  adhere  closely  to  the  densest  cover.  I  have  on  a 
number  of  occasions  seen  captive  specimens,  but  they  seem 
to  not  take  kindly  to  the  restricted  life  of  a  cage  or  aviary, 
and  spent  most  of  the  time  dashing  wildly  about,  injuring 
themselves  so  seriously  that  they  did  not  long  survive. 

A  number  of  the  birds  of  this  locality  are  not  included  in 
the  avifauna  of  Rosario  de  Lerma,  but  belong  to  the  Chaco 
type,  and  I  recognized  some  species  which  were  common 
near  Asuncion,  Paraguay;  among  them  a  large  blue  jay 
and  a  brown-shouldered  oriole. 

Our  next  station  was  at  Volcan.  About  the  only  attrac- 
tive thing  about  this  place  was  a  great  lake  almost  entirely 
surrounded  by  high  hills,  and  teeming  with  water-fowl. 
The  Quechua  boy  we  had  brought  from  Bolivia  was  the 
first  to  find  the  lake.  He  rushed  back  to  us  excitedly  with 
the  information  that  there  was  a  large  body  of  water  near 
by  with  a  huge,  white  duck  on  it;  he  had  shot  at  the  queer 
bird,  that  had  a  black  neck,  a  number  of  times  but  failed 
to  hit  it.  Fortunate  for  all  of  us  that  his  marksmanship 
was  poor !  The  "duck"  was  of  course  a  black-necked  swan 


374  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

belonging  to  the  owner  of  the  terrain,  and  its  untimely  demise 
would  have  cost  us  dearly.  There  were,  however,  hundreds 
of  ducks;  teals,  ruddies,  shovellers,  and  pintails;  also,  many 
coots,  grebes,  and  rails. 

The  body  of  water  had  an  area  of  over  a  square  mile, 
and  in  its  edges  a  tall  fringe  of  cattails  grew.  Marsh-wrens 
and  military  flycatchers  haunted  these  swaying  green 
thickets,  and  grebes  stole  silently  in  and  out  of  their  ragged 
borders.  There  were  many  disused  nests  of  coots  and  ducks; 
but  while  making  our  way  through  the  high,  tangled  growth 
we  came  suddenly  upon  the  nest  of  a  giant  grebe  (Fulica 
gigantica) ;  it  consisted  of  a  huge  mass  of  reed  stems,  slightly 
concave  on  top,  and  extending  about  a  foot  above  the  water; 
in  it  were  four  pointed,  brown  eggs,  heavily  dotted  with 
deep  brown  and  black.  This  was  apparently  a  second  clutch, 
the  first,  perhaps,  having  been  destroyed.  There  were 
scores  of  other  nests,  but  all  were  empty  and  falling  into 
decay. 

We  spent  a  busy  day  tramping  about  the  borders  of  the 
hidden  lake,  watching  the  flocks  of  coming  and  departing 
ducks  and  bagging  such  as  we  needed — whenever  a  duck  or 
cormorant  plumped  into  the  water  Boyle  swam  out  and 
got  it;  this  was  risky  work  that  I  did  not  encourage,  as 
the  water  was  ice  cold  and  many  fathoms  deep,  and  the 
ensnaring  under-water  growths  of  reeds  and  cattail  stems 
formed  dense,  slimy  masses  capable  of  holding  a  man  who 
might  become  entangled  in  them  until  he  became  exhausted 
and  drowned. 

While  at  Volcan  we  stayed  at  the  house  of  an  Italian 
trader.  He  asked  if  we  had  any  recent  reports  of  the  war, 
and  then  expressed  the  hope  that  it  would  last  years  longer, 
as  he  owned  part  interest  in  a  copper-mine,  and  was  re- 
ceiving war  prices  for  the  much-needed  metal.  We  decided 
not  to  accept  his  hospitality  any  longer  and  took  the  train 
to  Tilcara.  I  have  often  met  foreigners  in  South  America 
(including  some  from  the  United  States)  who  were  repre- 
sentative of  anything  but  the  better  class  of  citizens  of  their 


Ploughing  at  Rosario  de  Lerma. 


Tilcara,  showing  the  stream  and  valley  and  the  snow-capped  Andes  in  the  distance. 


BIRD-NESTING  IN  ARGENTINA  375 

respective  countries;  it  is  unfortunate  that  many  Latin 
Americans  base  their  estimate  of  a  people  upon  the  appear- 
ance and  doings  of  these  few  misguided  and  objectionable 
characters. 

At  Tilcara  we  lived  with  another  Italian  family,  but  of 
an  entirely  different  type.  The  village,  the  elevation  of 
which  is  eight  thousand  feet,  stands  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  railway-station.  We  were  engaging  peons  to  carry  our 
luggage  there  when  the  man  stepped  up  and  offered  us  the 
use  of  part  of  his  humble  home,  which  stood  within  a  hun- 
dred feet  of  the  spot.  We  accepted  the  invitation,  and 
during  our  entire  stay  were  treated  with  great  courtesy. 

There  is  a  narrow  valley  between  high,  nigged,  barren 
peaks,  some  of  which  are  snow-capped.  Parts  of  the  de- 
pression are  dry  and  semiarid;  others,  marshy  and  covered 
with  high,  rank  grass.  Small  Indian  huts  built  of  stones 
or  adobe  are  strewn  about,  and  there  are  numerous  fields 
from  which  the  rocks  have  been  gathered  through  years 
of  effort  so  that  the  land  may  be  cultivated. 

There  were  many  birds.  They  represented  a  fauna  inter- 
mediate between  that  of  the  high,  cold  plateau  and  that 
found  lower  down  at  Rosario  de  Lerma.  Large  red-breasted 
meadow-larks  (Troupialis)  were  common  and  always  found 
in  pairs.  Of  hummers  there  were  numerous  kinds,  attracted 
by  clumps  of  flowering  shrubs  that  grew  alongside  the 
fences;  the  giant  humming-bird  and  the  gorgeous  coppery- 
tailed  comet  were  particularly  plentiful.  The  former  are 
veiy  stupid.  They  came  fluttering  along  like  awkward 
swallows  and  often  settled  comfortably  on  a  branch  near 
to  us,  from  which  they  would  inspect  us  at  their  leisure, 
while  they  chirped  and  darted  out  the  tongue  like  a  snake. 
One  of  the  comets  that  we  collected  had  eaten  quantities 
of  gnats  and  small  ants. 

The  walls  of  a  deserted  Quechua  hut  had  been  appro- 
priated by  a  flock  of  bay-winged  cowbirds  (Molothrus  badius) 
for  their  nesting-sites.  Dozens  of  small,  round  holes  pene- 
trated the  thick,  earthen  walls,  and  some  of  them  extended 


376  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

entirely  through;  the  latter  were  not  occupied.  Apparently 
whatever  birds  had  drilled  the  cavities,  frequently  surprised 
themselves  by  emerging  suddenly  into  the  daylight  they 
were  trying  to  get  away  from,  at  the  far  end  of  the  burrow. 
However,  not  to  be  discouraged,  repeated  other  attempts 
were  made,  some  of  which  were  successful  as  the  walls  varied 
in  thickness.  A  small,  flat  nest  of  sticks  lined  with  a  few 
feathers  comprised  the  bay-wing's  domicile.  Some  of  them 
contained  young  birds,  and  one  had  five  eggs  in  it.  The 
adult  birds  always  remained  in  a  flock  in  the  vicinity  and 
kept  up  a  shrill  screaming  while  we  were  near. 

Large,  blackish  rails  inhabited  the  reedy  marshes;  they 
came  in  flocks  to  feed  in  the  velvety  green  islands  inter- 
spersed among  the  weed  and  water  covered  areas.  Watch- 
ing from  a  concealed  position,  we  could  see  them  strut  un- 
concernedly about,  flicking  their  tails  over  their  backs  and 
jerking  their  necks  and  picking  up  the  tiny  mollusks  and 
insects  that  were  so  abundant.  When  alarmed  they  craned 
their  necks,  looked  about  inquisitively,  then  gave  a  few 
hoarse  cackles  and  ran  into  the  weeds;  within  a  few  mo- 
ments they  returned,  one  at  a  time,  and  at  first  slowly  and 
cautiously;  but  soon,  forgetting  that  danger  might  lurk 
near  by,  they  rushed  for  the  spots  where  food  was  most 
abundant.  Rails  are  peculiar  and  interesting  birds.  The 
body  is  narrow  and  compressed  like  a  flea's;  this  enables 
them  to  slip  through  the  dense  reeds  and  water-plants  in 
which  they  live.  The  comparatively  long  bills  make  it 
possible  for  them  to  pick  up  food  in  shallow  water.  Their 
long,  slender  toes,  giving  the  feet  a  wide  spread,  make  walk- 
ing on  floating  vegetation  and  soft  mud  easy;  neverthe- 
less, at  least  some  species  are  good  swimmers. 

Flocks  of  night-herons  spent  the  days  in  a  small  clump 
of  willows  fringing  the  marsh.  At  dusk  they  grew  very 
active  and  we  could  hear  them  croaking  from  afar.  They 
are  splendid  eating. 

As  at  Pulque*  and  the  Pilcomayo,  birds  were  hard  pressed 
for  nesting-sites.  Giant  club-cacti  apparently  were  at  a 


BIRD-NESTING  IN  ARGENTINA  377 

premium.  The  old,  disused  nests  of  brush-birds  (Synal- 
laxis),  or  lenaieroSj  were  inhabited  by  mocking-birds  which 
built  a  nest  of  their  own  within  the  huge  structure  of  twigs; 
and,  when  the  mocking-birds  were  away,  cowbirds  slipped 
in  and  deposited  a  few  eggs.  One  mocking-bird  had  been 
so  unwise  as  to  place  its  nest  in  a  thorny  bush  covered 
with  dense  foliage  so  that  it  could  not  be  watched  from  a 
distance  and  defended  from  cowbirds;  before  the  owners 
were  ready  to  use  their  new  home,  it  had  received  many 
visits  from  the  black  parasites  (M .  b.  bonariensis)  who  left 
their  cards  in  the  shape  of  fourteen  speckled  eggs.  We 
collected  this  "set"  but  have  the  idea  that  this  only  en- 
couraged the  cowbirds  to  increased  efforts. 

The  abundance  of  ducks  in  South  America  in  places  where 
one  least  expects  to  find  them,  is  a  source  of  never-ending 
surprise.  A  small  stream  flows  through  the  valley  at  Til- 
cara.  It  is  nowhere  more  than  twenty  feet  across,  and  two 
or  three  feet  deep,  but  flocks  of  green-winged  teals  visited 
it  regularly  at  dawn  and  dusk.  They  swam  in  the  rapid 
water,  and  then  lined  up  on  the  rocky  bank  for  a  quiet  nap. 

The  inhabitants  of  Tilcara  shot  many,  but  others  came 
to  the  same  place  daily. 

Of  mammals  there  were  but  few.  Cavies,  as  usual,  lived 
among  the  rock  piles  and  in  the  stone  fences,  and  a  few  other 
small  rodents  inhabited  the  grain-fields.  One  day  we  secured 
a  fine  specimen  of  the  rare,  elusive  yellow  cat  called  gato 
pamperOj  or  pampas-cat.  It  was  stealing  cautiously  along 
the  river-bank;  but  I  am  unable  to  say  whether  it  had  come 
in  quest  of  fish  or  merely  for  the  purpose  of  quenching  its 
thirst.  Our  work  in  this  region  being  completed,  we  re- 
turned to  Perico,  and  prepared  for  the  journey  to  Em- 
barcacion. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

THE   CHACO,    SUGAR-PLANTATIONS   AND   RICE 
MARSHES— A   SEARCH   FOR   A   RARE    BIRD 

THE  train  for  the  Chaco  left  Perico  at  9  P.  M.  It  was 
composed  largely  of  second-class  coaches  crowded  with 
immigrants,  mostly  Italians  bound  for  various  parts  of 
the  great  land  that  is  being  rapidly  thrown  open  to  colo- 
nization. There  was,  however,  also  a  compartment-car  in 
which  we  had  taken  the  precaution  of  making  a  reservation 
some  time  in  advance.  The  darkness  prevented  our  seeing 
the  landscape  through  which  we  passed,  but  on  our  return 
we  noted  that  there  was  little  change  from  that  around 
Perico  as  far  as  San  Pedro.  There  were,  however,  numerous 
fields  of  sugar-cane,  some  of  very  great  size.  Beyond  San 
Pedro  the  country  is  all  of  the  Chaco  type;  that  is,  vast 
stretches  of  pampas  liberally  sprinkled  with  islands  of  forest. 
The  Vermejo,  a  river  about  the  size  of  the  Wabash,  was 
crossed  on  a  steel  bridge  three  miles  before  reaching  our  des- 
tination, which  was  at  six  o'clock  the  following  morning. 

A  group  of  newly  erected  shacks,  low  and  so  lightly  built 
of  packing-cases  and  corrugated  sheet  iron  that  many  of 
them  resembled  mere  skeletons  of  houses;  narrow,  crooked 
streets;  shops  loaded  with  fruits  and  conducted  by  Italians, 
and  others  festooned  with  bandanna  handkerchiefs,  gaudy 
wearing  apparel  and  cheap  jewelry,  and  owned  by  Turks 
or  Syrians;  gambling  and  liquor  houses;  a  motley  crowd 
of  slovenly,  not  overdressed  people,  and  a  tropical  sun  blaz- 
ing down  mercilessly  on  the  whole  assemblage.  That  is 
Embarcacion,  the  "farthest  east"  to  date  in  the  north- 
eastern part  of  Argentina's  vast  Chaco.  I  was  told  that 
as  the  railroad  is  extended  farther  and  farther  into  the  in- 
terior, many  of  the  residents  take  down  their  abodes  and 
ship  them  to  the  new  station  where  they  are  re-assembled; 

378  • 


THE  CHACO  379 

and  so  a  great  portion  of  the  town  moves  bodily  at  different 
intervals. 

On  all  sides  lies  the  seemingly  limitless  Chaco.  There  is 
practically  no  cultivation  and  but  few  herds  of  cattle  had 
been  introduced  to  date.  In  addition  to  the  great  possibili- 
ties for  cattle-raising,  the  country  also  possesses  enonrious 
wealth  in  quebracho-wood;  at  present  quantities  of  it  are 
cut  for  use  as  fuel  in  the  locomotives  of  several  of  the  rail- 
roads. Within  a  short  time,  no  doubt,  these  assets  will  be 
utilized  in  a  manner  that  will  be  advantageous  to  both  the 
exploiters  and  the  country  at  large. 

One  of  the  interesting  discoveries  in  the  pampas  was  a 
wintering-place  for  bobolinks.  The  extent  of  this  bird's 
migration  had  been  shrouded  in  mystery,  and  but  a  single 
specimen  in  winter  plumage  had  ever  been  recorded.  We 
found  them  in  flocks  of  thousands,  perched  in  the  top  of 
the  tall  grass  or  picking  up  seeds  from  the  ground.  Their 
cheery  song  was  conspicuously  absent.  They  were  in  spotted 
plumage.  Small  red-breasted  meadow-larks  (Leistes)  min- 
gled freely  with  the  bobolinks. 

Another  place  that  never  failed  to  attract  us  was  a  small 
lagoon  flanked  by  forest  on  two  sides,  and  by  prairie  on  the 
others.  This  region  was  the  resort  of  many  birds.  Flocks 
of  Brazilian  cardinals  (Paroarid)  numbering  up  to  thirty 
individuals  congregated  in  the  bushes,  their  flaming  red 
heads  reminding  one  of  clusters  of  brilliant  flowers.  We 
discovered  a  nest  of  the  species,  a  shallow  affair  of  grass 
stems,  placed  in  the  end  of  a  branch  twenty  feet  above  the 
ground;  in  it  were  two  eggs  resembling  those  of  the  Eng- 
lish sparrow.  Small  black-and-white  flycatchers  (Fluvicola) 
found  the  lagoon  a  most  attractive  spot.  Their  pear-shaped 
bag  nests  of  interwoven  grasses  and  feathers  were  scattered 
about  in  the  overhanging  bushes  and  also  fastened  to  the 
stems  of  aquatic  plants,  sometimes  but  a  foot  above  the 
water.  There  were  also  numbers  of  grebes,  coots,  and  gal- 
linules,  and  occasionally  a  pair  of  beautiful  Brazilian  teals 
visited  the  quiet,  secluded  body  of  water.  Night-herons 


380  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

kept  well  to  the  tops  of  the  taller  trees;  and  everglade  kites 
flew  gracefully  and  swiftly  overhead,  usually  singly,  and 
rarely  in  pairs.  We  heard  the  weird  call  of  chachalacas 
almost  daily,  but  these  birds  had  been  persecuted  by  native 
hunters  until  they  had  acquired  enough  wisdom  to  avoid 
hunters  and  human  beings  in  general.  In  one  wet  strip 
of  woods  we  found  limpkins  in  limited  numbers.  They 
did  not  seem  to  ever  come  out  into  the  open  country.  There 
was  not  time  to  study  the  frogs,  fish,  and  small  snakes  that 
we  saw  occasionally;  nor  to  more  than  admire  the  myriads 
of  flowers  and  curious  plants  growing  on  all  sides.  There 
was,  however,  another  naturalist  (Jose  Steinbach)  working 
in  the  locality  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  and  fortunately  he 
devoted  practically  all  his  energies  to  the  study  of  the  very 
things  we  had  to  omit,  so  between  both  expeditions  the 
fauna  and  flora  were  pretty  well  covered. 

Many  of  the  available  trees  were  burdened  with  the  huge 
stick  nests  of  the  lenateros  (Synallaxis).  Some  of  the  struc- 
tures measured  six  feet  long  and  two  feet  through.  They 
were  built  of  thorny  twigs,  at  the  ends  of  branches.  A  heap 
of  material  is  first  placed  at  the  very  tip  of  a  limb,  and  as 
the  weight  causes  it  to  sag  downward,  more  sticks  are  added 
until  the  huge  mass  hangs  suspended  in  a  vertical  position. 
The  thorns  cause  the  whole  affair  to  hold  together  so  well 
that  opossums  and  other  predatory  animals  find  it  impos- 
sible to  burrow  their  way  through  the  walls  to  the  interior 
cavity  where  the  four  or  five  white  eggs,  or  the  young  birds, 
are  cleverly  concealed  in  a  downy  cup.  There  is  usually 
a  second  chamber  near  the  top  of  the  nest;  this  is  the  male 
bird's  night  quarters  while  his  mate  is  incubating  or  brood- 
ing in  the  lower  story. 

Blue-headed  tanagers  (Thraupis)  preferred  to  nest  in 
the  trees  and  bushes  near  to  some  human  habitation,  while 
blue  grosbeaks  selected  more  secluded  sites  in  some  little 
woods  or  thickets.  The  latter  birds  breed  before  the  male 
changes  his  brown  nestling  plumage  to  the  deep  indigo-blue 
coat  of  the  adult. 


The  lagoon  in  the  Chaco,  Embarcacion. 


Paramo  above  Tafi. 


THE  CHACO  381 

The  most  beautiful  of  all  South  American  birds'  eggs 
are  laid  by  the  tinamou.  They  are  placed  in  a  depression 
in  the  ground,  usually  under  a  tuft  of  grass  or  near  a  log 
or  stone.  Their  color  varies  in  the  different  species,  run- 
ning through  turquoise  and  deep  blue,  lavender,  brown, 
green,  and  gold.  The  shape  is  rounded  or  broadly  ovate 
and  the  shell  is  very  smooth  so  that  it  glows  like  a  varnished 
or  highly  polished  sphere.  In  spite  of  the  glossy  texture 
of  the  surface,  minute  scrutiny  will  reveal  the  fact  that  it 
is  pitted  like  that  of  the  eggs  of  the  rhea  to  which  the  tina- 
mou are  closely  related. 

We  saw  a  fox  occasionally,  slinking  across  a  trail  and  al- 
ways well  out  of  gun-range.  Each  morning  there  were  tracks 
of  cats  and  large  cavies  in  the  dusty  paths,  but  mammals 
were  scarce  and  few  came  to  our  traps. 

There  were  no  mosquitoes  during  the  day,  and  only 
enough  at  night  to  make  the  use  of  a  net  desirable.  Sand- 
flies,  however,  often  appeared  in  considerable  numbers  and 
were  troublesome.  The  climate  was  intolerably  hot  during 
tne  greater  part  of  our  stay.  Each  day  the  thermometer 
rose  a  few  degrees  higher  until  we  found  even  the  lightest 
and  scantiest  amount  of  clothing  uncomfortable;  all  through 
the  long  afternoons  we  sat  shirtless  with  streams  of  per- 
spiration pouring  down  our  backs,  preparing  the  specimens 
'hat  spoiled  within  a  few  hours  unless  properly  preserved. 
About  every  fourth  or  fifth  day  the  weather  broke  and  a 
deluge  of  rain  falling  throughout  the  afternoon  and  night 
brought  with  it  a  lowered  temperature  and  welcome  respite 
from  the  oppressive  heat. 

Our  greatest  problem  was  dealing  with  the  hosts  of  small 
red  ants  that  persisted  in  getting  at  our  specimens.  We 
kept  the  latter  on  a  table  the  legs  of  which  stood  in  tin  cans 
half  full  of  kerosene;  but  a  trailing  thread,  a  piece  of  paper 
blown  by  the  wind,  or  any  one  of  a  dozen  other  trivial  things 
that  happened  daily  furnished  bridges  over  which  the  in- 
satiable hordes  promptly  swarmed  to  destroy  our  hard- 
gotten  trophies. 


382  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

We  next  headed  toward  Tucuman  and  upon  our  arrival 
there  were  pleased  to  find  a  city  of  sixty  thousand  in- 
habitants, delightful  from  practically  every  point  of  view. 
The  people  were  particularly  interesting.  We  saw  few  of 
them  on  the  streets  during  the  daytime,  but  in  the  late 
afternoon  after  the  shops  and  offices  had  closed  and  bolted 
their  doors,  the  men  appeared  in  crowds,  all  well  and  neatly 
dressed.  They  congregated  in  the  saloons  and  cafes  fring- 
ing the  plaza,  and  drank  beer  and  small  cups  of  strong, 
black  coffee  until  about  seven  o'clock.  In  many  instances 
the  tables  were  arranged  on  both  sides  of  the  pavement  so 
that  one  walked  through  a  lane  between  rows  of  sleek-combed 
youths  twirling  gaudily  banded  straw  hats  or  canes,  and 
noisily  discussing — what-not,  and  grave-faced  men  with 
gray  hair  and  beards  everlastingly  talking  politics.  After 
going  home  to  supper  they  reappeared  with  the  womenfolk, 
the  wealthier  ones  circling  about  the  plaza  in  carriages  or 
motor-cars,  the  less  opulent  afoot.  The  band  played  every 
other  night. 

The  great  Province  of  Tucuman,  of  which  the  city  bear- 
ing the  same  name  is  the  capital,  is  one  of  the  most  fertile 
in  all  Argentina.  Its  principal  products  are  sugar,  rice, 
and  cattle.  Land  values  are  high — too  high  in  some  cases, 
but  it  cannot  be  denied  that  there  is  good  reason  for  the 
rapidly  rising  scale  of  prices. 

In  Tucuman  we  found  the  chief  of  police  a  hard  proposi- 
tion to  handle  when  it  came  to  securing  the  hunting-license. 
To  begin  with,  we  had  great  difficulty  in  entering  his  sanc- 
tuary. The  door  was  guarded  by  a  mammoth  negro  who 
rushed  into  the  inner  chamber  each  time  the  intendente 
rang  for  him.  First  he  always  jerked  a  huge  club  out  from 
under  his  coat — ready  perhaps  to  take  the  first  whack  at 
the  official  if  some  one  started  anything,  instead  of  defend- 
ing him.  Finally  we  succeeded  in  entering  the  holy  of  holies, 
and  found  a  small,  rather  elderly  man  sitting  behind  a  large, 
flat  desk,  sipping  tea  while  several  secretaries  hopped  wildly 
about  him  and  yelled  into  an  ear-trumpet  held  in  position 


THE  CHACO  383 

by  one  of  his  hands.  He  failed  utterly  to  understand  our 
request,  and  curtly  refused  to  have  anything  to  do  with 
any  millinery  establishment.  We  argued  in  vain,  then  retired 
to  think  of  some  new  move,  for  the  permit  was  necessary 
if  we  wished  to  keep  out  of  jail,  and  I  must  admit  that  such 
was  our  ardent  desire. 

There  being  no  United  States  Consul  in  Tucuman,  I  ap- 
pealed to  the  British  Consul  for  assistance.  He  very  kindly 
spent  many  hours  calling  on  various  officials,  from  the 
governor  down,  explaining  our  mission  and  asking  that  the 
small  matter  be  arranged  for  us.  Our  quest  seemed  hopeless 
until  one  day  a  copy  of  one  of  the  large  daily  newspapers 
arrived  from  Buenos  Aires,  and  in  this  I  found  an  account 
of  how  representatives  of  Latin-American  countries  who 
were  attending  the  scientific  congress  in  Washington  had 
been  received  and  entertained  at  the  American  Museum  of 
Natural  History  during  their  visit  to  New  York.  Armed 
with  this  clipping  I  again  invaded  the  palacio.  Ordinarily 
I  should  not  have  done  such  a  thing,  as  there  are  many 
reasons  why  it  is  not  commendable,  but  the  situation  was 
desperate  and  called  for  aggressive  tactics.  Suffice  it  to  say 
that  this  visit  was  the  last.  A  mild  comparison  of  how 
their  people  were  treated  in  our  country,  and  the  diffi- 
culties we  had  in  theirs  was  sufficient,  and  when  I  left  the 
building  the  permit  was  in  my  pocket. 

The  Sierra  de  Tucuman,  a  range  of  comparatively  low 
mountains,  rises  directly  west  of  the  city.  This  we  found 
to  be  covered  with  a  growth  of  tall,  dense  forest,  so  we  lost 
no  time  in  moving  there.  We  left  the  city  by  rail  and  pro- 
ceeded southwestward  to  a  small  station  called  San  Pablo, 
a  short  distance  away.  This  is  in  the  heart  of  the  sugar 
region  and  vast  fields  of  cane  stretch  on  either  side  of  the 
railway.  Here  and  there  the  tall  brick  chimneys  of  a  re- 
finery rise  above  the  waving  green  fields,  and  wide,  deep 
canals  divide  the  cultivated  areas  into  sections  and  supply 
water  for  irrigation. 

A  good  cart-road  leads  from  San  Pablo  up  the  side  of  the 


384  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

mountain  to  the  very  summit,  four  thousand  six  hundred 
feet  high,  where  the  little  town  of  Villa  Nougues  is  situated. 
This  settlement  is  a  favorite  resort  of  the  wealthier  class 
of  people  who  come  up  from  Tucuman  to  spend  the  summer 
months  in  pleasant  chateaux,  thereby  avoiding  the  heat  of 
the  lower  country. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  range  is  superb;  the  coun- 
try to  the  east  is  perfectly  level,  and  is  laid  out  in  sym- 
metrical fields  of  cane  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see.  A 
small,  muddy  river,  threading  its  way  through  the  ocean 
of  green  divides  it  into  two  sections  and  vanishes  into  the 
horizon  in  a  haze  of  purple  mist.  To  the  west  stands  the 
stern  Andean  chain,  barren  and  precipitous,  its  summit 
hidden  in  banks  of  cold,  gray  clouds. 

We  made  a  first  camp  in  the  forest  below  Villa  Nougues, 
at  an  altitude  of  four  thousand  feet.  From  the  very  first 
day  we  had  heard  the  shrill  little  call  of  a  bird  which  we 
attributed  to  the  much-coveted  tapacola  (Scytalopus)  we 
were  looking  for;  but  the  elusive  creature  always  remained 
in  concealment  among  the  ferns  and  mosses  and  not  once 
did  we  get  a  glimpse  of  it.  Then  we  secured  ox-carts  and 
moved  to  the  other  side  of  the  mountain,  where,  we  were 
told,  hunting  was  not  so  difficult. 

Birds  were  not  abundant,  the  fall  migrations  having  left 
the  forest  almost  deserted.  The  few  species  which  remained, 
however,  such  as  wood-hewers,  thrushes,  tanagers,  and  jays, 
were  plentiful,  and  several  kinds  of  humming-birds  added 
life  and  color  to  the  sombre  green  of  the  vegetation.  After 
many  days  we  succeeded  in  tracing  the  mysterious  chirp 
to  its  source,  and  found,  not  the  bird  we  were  seeking,  but 
a  dainty  little  wood-wren  of  the  shyest  possible  nature. 
The  minute,  secretive  creature  seemed  to  spend  its  entire 
time  among  the  buttresses,  roots,  and  moss-draped  under- 
growth, where  no  ray  of  sunlight  ever  penetrated  to  dispel 
the  chill  and  semidarkness,  or  give  a  touch  of  warmth  to 
the  soggy  mould.  Its  glimpses  of  daylight  must  be  brief 
indeed,  and  at  infrequent  intervals.  We  had  come  to  the 


THE  CHACO  385 

mountains  in  a  state  of  enthusiasm  and  expectancy,  for 
here  it  seemed  we  should  succeed  in  ending  our  long  quest 
for  the  tapacola.  As  the  days  passed,  thrilling  excitement 
gave  way  to  exasperation,  and  finally  disappointment  alone 
remained  to  fill  the  void  created  by  the  flight  of  the  other 
emotions. 

We  returned  to  Tucuman  for  a  brief  time,  and  then  struck 
for  the  forest  farther  south.  This  time  we  left  the  railroad 
at  a  station  called  Acheral  two  and  one-half  hours  from 
Tucuman,  and  camped  in  the  forest  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge. 
Again  we  were  doomed  to  disappointment.  Birds  were  more 
abundant  than  at  Villa  Nougues,  but  the  tapacola  was  not 
forthcoming.  There  were,  however,  numerous  other  in- 
teresting species.  Pigmy  woodpeckers  (Picumnus)  selected 
the  patches  of  high  brush  and  second-growth  woods  just 
without  the  edge  of  the  forest  proper.  They  are  little  larger 
than  a  good-sized  humming-bird,  dark  or  black  above, 
white  underneath,  and  have  a  red  cap.  Their  industrious 
hammering  always  advertised  the  presence  of  a  pair  as 
they  hopped  quickly  along  the  trunks  and  branches,  tap- 
ping for  worms  or  excavating  a  nesting-site. 

The  woods  were  undermined  with  tunnels  made  by  the 
queer  tuco-tuco,  or  oculto  (Ctenomys),  a  species  of  which  we 
had  come  in  contact  with  in  Brazil.  We  set  a  steel  trap 
in  one  of  the  subterranean  runways,  carefully  covering  with 
a  log  the  opening  we  had  made;  soon  a  series  of  low  grunts 
emanated  from  the  spot,  and  we  found  a  fine,  large  speci- 
men of  the  strange  rodent  safely  held  by  the  steel  jaws. 

Bottle  flies  were  so  numerous  as  to  prove  a  most  disagree- 
able pest.  Blankets,  clothing,  food,  and  specimens  alike 
were  covered  with  "blow"  if  left  exposed  for  but  a  few 
minutes.  We  were  lucky  in  possessing  enough  netting  with 
which  to  rig  up  covers  for  everything,  but  even  then 
numbers  gained  entrance,  and  we  had  to  clean  the  infested 
articles  frequently  by  passing  them  over  a  fire  or  by  scrap- 
ing and  brushing. 

After  a  few  days  we  concluded  that  a  visit  to  the  top  of 


386  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

the  range,  which  at  this  point  attains  an  altitude  of  ovev 
ten  thousand  feet,  was  necessary.  We  secured  a  pack-train 
of  mules  from  Acheral,  and  one  morning  at  one  o'clock 
started  up  the  steep  slope.  A  full  moon  showered  a  flood 
of  light  upon  the  earth,  but  the  overhanging  branches 
formed  a  thick  canopy  over  the  trail,  impermeable  to  the 
silvery  radiance  save  when  an  occasional  breeze  stirred 
the  leafy  arch,  thus  permitting  fitful  shafts  of  light  to  pierce 
the  darkness  of  the  tunnel,  and  to  fall  in  quavering,  danc- 
ing blotches  on  the  ground.  We  could  almost  feel  the  im- 
penetrable blackness  which  closed  in  from  all  sides  like 
water  in  a  deep,  dark  pool.  The  light  touch  of  a  streamer 
dangling  from  the  moss-festooned  branches  overhead,  or 
the  velvety  swish* of  fern  leaves  protruding  beyond  the  pro- 
tecting walls  of  tree-trunks,  made  it  seem  as  if  the  forest 
were  peopled  with  hovering,  invisible  forms.  No  sound 
disturbed  the  brooding  silence  of  the  night  except  the  dull 
hoof-beats  of  the  mules  as,  guided  by  some  mysterious  in- 
stinct, they  cautiously  picked  their  way  through  the  muddy 
and  rock-strewn  lane. 

Hour  after  hour  we  followed  blindly  in  the  wake  of  the 
bell-mule,  winding  back  and  forth  along  the  mountain- 
side, but  mounting  ever  upward.  The  latter  part  of  the 
way  seemed  to  lie  near  the  course  of  a  small  mountain  tor- 
rent, for  we  were  almost  constantly  within  hearing  dis- 
tance of  rushing  water.  Finally,  we  emerged  from  the  forest, 
and,  just  as  day  was  breaking,  reached  a  brush-covered 
strip  of  country,  the  elevation  of  which  is  five  thousand 
feet.  This  continued  to  the  top  of  the  ridge,  two  thousand 
feet  above.  Then  there  was  a  depression  of  considerable 
extent,  filled  with  rank,  low  vegetation  and  infested  with 
swarms  of  bloodthirsty  flies  which  render  it  uninhabitable. 

After  ascending  another  ridge,  the  trail  led  gently  down- 
ward into  a  level  valley  a  dozen  miles  long  and  from  one 
to  two  miles  wide.  Herds  of  cattle  were  grazing  on  the 
abundant  grass;  a  few  small  areas  had  been  enclosed  with- 
in stone  walls  and  planted  in  maize;  and  at  the  far  end, 


THE  CHACO  387 

half  concealed  by  willows  and  fruit-trees,  lay  a  village  of 
whitewashed  houses.  At  half  past  four  in  the  afternoon 
we  reached  the  settlement,  called  Tafl  del  Valle,  and  soon 
after  were  comfortably  ensconced  in  a  hut  hospitably  pro- 
vided by  one  of  the  inhabitants.  After  the  fifteen  and  a 
half  hours'  uninterrupted  ride  over  a  difficult  trail  we  were 
ready  for  a  journey  into  a  still  more  remote  region,  and 
the  sun  was  shining  brightly  the  following  morning  when 
we  again  returned  to  the  stern  realities  of  this  world. 

Tafi  del  Valle  is  a  most  delightful  place.  Even  though 
the  altitude  is  seven  thousand  feet,  the  surrounding  peaks 
shut  in  the  valley  and  protect  it  from  the  icy  winds.  There 
is  no  natural  forest  in  this  region,  but  groves  of  willows 
have  been  planted  near  the  houses;  to  these,  large  numbers 
of  birds  came  to  spend  the  night.  Hawks  were  especially 
abundant  and  of  many  kinds — we  collected  no  fewer  than 
seventeen  species  during  our  ten  days'  stay;  then  there 
were  also  burrowing  owls,  larks,  flycatchers,  thrushes,  and 
many  other  birds.  Some  species  which  ordinarily  live  in 
brush-covered  country  had  become  adapted  to  their  barren 
surroundings  and  were  nesting  in  holes  excavated  in  banks 
of  earth.  When  the  birds  had  reared  their  broods,  rats, 
mice,  and  pigmy  opossums  occupied  the  old  nesting-sites. 

A  clear,  cold  stream,  which  flows  through  one  side  of 
the  valley,  spreads  out  at  the  lower  end  over  a  large  area, 
forming  lagoons  and  marshes.  Geese,  ducks,  coots,  night- 
herons,  and  sandpipers  made  these  places  a  favorite  resort. 
Pectoral  sandpipers  were  not  uncommon,  and  were  so  fat 
that  they  were  unable  to  fly  and  could  be  taken  with  the 
hands.  There  were  also  flocks  of  stilts;  they  are  beautiful 
creatures,  either  when  flying  in  compact  formation,  with 
measured  wing-beats  and  outstretched  necks  and  legs,  or 
when  standing  motionless  in  the  shallow  water,  their  snowy 
underparts  reflected  in  quivering  outlines.  Lapwings 
screamed  and  cackled  in  resentment  of  our  visit  and  fre- 
quently frightened  away  flocks  of  water-fowl  which  we  were 
stalking. 


388  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Apparently  our  Scytalopus  was  not  a  bird  of  the  open 
highlands.  We  even  began  to  wonder  if  it  existed  at  all, 
because,  so  far,  the  most  thorough  search  had  failed  to  re- 
veal any  trace  of  it.  There  remained,  however,  the  high 
paramo  above,  and  to  this  we  next  turned  our  attention. 

Our  sudden  arrival  at  Tafl  had  caused  much  comment 
among  the  inhabitants.  They  found  it  impossible  to  be- 
lieve that  we  had  come  to  that  remote  region  in  search  of  a 
small,  dull-colored  bird,  and  after  a  few  days  it  became  an 
open  secret  that  we  were  regarded  as  spies — though  just 
what  nature  of  information  we  sought,  could  not  be  deter- 
mined. They  even  went  so  far  as  to  refer  to  the  matter 
occasionally  in  a  good-natured  manner;  and  when  we  were 
away  on  hunting  excursions,  it  was  their  custom  to  put  our 
cook,  a  Bolivian,  through  a  sort  of  "third  degree"  in  an 
effort  to  compel  him  to  confess  the  real  object  of  our  visit. 
Therefore,  when  we  planned  to  move  to  the  high  peaks 
bordering  the  little  valley,  the  natives  considered  their 
evidence  complete;  we  were  going,  they  said,  to  prepare  a 
diagram  of  the  country  from  our  new  point  of  vantage. 
The  only  person  who  really  understood  the  purpose  of  our 
mission  was  a  man  from  Tucuman  who  had  been  sent  up 
to  vaccinate  the  Indians.  He  started  out  each  morning 
accompanied  by  two  or  three  soldiers,  rounded  up  all  the 
Indians  of  a  given  locality,  and  vaccinated  them.  The 
natives  did  not  at  the  time  realize  the  significance  of  this 
act;  but  when,  a  few  weeks  later,  the  inoculations  had  had 
time  to  become  effective,  they  grew  frantic,  and  grim-faced 
little  parties  began  to  scour  the  country  in  search  of  the 
person  who  had  "poisoned"  them.  Fortunately,  none  of 
the  scouting-parties  came  our  way,  for  to  them  all  strangers 
look  very  much  alike,  and  there  was  the  possibility  that 
one  of  us  might  have  been  mistaken  for  the  doctor. 

The  paramo  above  Tafi  is  a  bleak  region,  almost  per- 
petually enveloped  in  mist.  Work  in  this  type  of  country 
possesses  its  disadvantages,  for  in  addition  to  the  intense 
cold  and  the  lack  of  fuel,  there  is  always  the  possibility 


THE  CHACO  389 

that  one  may  be  trapped  far  from  camp  by  banks  of  clouds 
which  roll  in  unexpectedly!  The  cold,  penetrating  mist 
is  so  dense  that  it  is  impossible  to  distinguish  objects  but 
a  few  yards  away,  and  the  most  familiar  landmarks  assume 
strange  and  fantastic  outlines.  In  the  event  that  one  is 
(overtaken  by  this  phenomenon,  there  is  nothing  to  do  but 
wait  until  the  mist  lifts,  which  may  be  in  a  few  hours,  or 
perhaps,  not  until  the  next  day.  Strange  to  say,  the  in- 
hospitable paramo  supports  a  varied  fauna.  Herds  of  wary 
guanacos  feed  on  the  tall,  wiry  grass  growing  in  the  more 
sheltered  places;  when  alarmed,  they  flee  to  the  inaccessible 
rocky  slopes.  The  pa/a,  or  grass,  harbors  also  a  species  of 
large  tinamou,  but  the  bird  is  loath  to  leave  its  safe  cover, 
for  no  sooner  does  it  take  wing  than  hawks,  which  are  al- 
ways hovering  about,  swoop  down  and  carry  it  away. 

Numbers  of  deep  ravines  have  been  worn  in  the  moun- 
tainsides by  water  coming  from  the  melting  snows  on  the 
higher  peaks.  These  are  filled  with  a  rank  growth  of  shrub- 
bery. The  sides  are  so  abrupt  that  we  could  find  no  spot 
where  a  descent  was  possible  without  the  aid  of  a  thousand 
feet  or  more  of  rope.  After  a  number  of  days,  however, 
a  narrow  fissure  was  discovered  leading  to  one  of  the  ravines 
from  which  came  faint  bird-calls  that  we  at  once  recognized 
with  a  fair  degree  of  certainty.  On  account  of  the  high 
altitude  and  tangled  plant-life  it  was  slow,  tiring  work  to 
follow  along  the  bottom  of  the  jagged  gash;  there  was  also 
the  Unpleasant  possibility  of  breaking  through  the  matted 
brush  and  falling  into  deep  crevices  among  the  rocks.  - 

As  we  struggled  along  slowly,  high-pitched,  whistling 
calls  fang  clear  and  loud  from  numerous  places  near  by, 
but  still  it  seemed  as  if  our  efforts  might  be  of  no  avail;  for 
among  that  chaos  of  vegetation  it  was  impossible  to  move 
without  causing  great  disturbance  and  frightening  the  birds 
away.  Then  there  recurred  to  us  the  old  saying  about  Ma- 
homet and  the  mountain  and  we  resorted  to  quiet  conceal- 
ment, -•  ' 

Presently  there  was  a  crisp  little  chirp  and  a  rustle  among 


390  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

the  mosses  a  few  yards  away;  one,  two,  five  minutes  passed; 
then  a  minute,  shadowy  form  darted  out  of  the  darkness, 
perched  on  a  moss-covered  boulder,  and  turned  a  pair  of 
bright,  inquisitive  eyes  upon  the  strange  monsters  which 
had  invaded  its  snug  retreat.  The  white  throat  gleamed 
conspicuously  among  the  deep-green  surroundings  as  the 
bird  paused  a  moment  to  complete  its  inspection;  then  up 
went  the  short,  barred  tail,  straight  into  the  air,  and  a  suc- 
cession of  low,  scolding  notes  emanated  from  the  feathered 
mite  as  it  hopped  about  in  angry  excitement. 

We  found  that  the  bird  existed  in  numbers;  once  we 
had  discovered  a  way  of  entering  its  stronghold,  it  was  pos- 
sible to  make  the  desired  studies.  Thus  our  difficult  search, 
covering  so  many  hundreds  of  miles,  came  to  a  pleasant 
and  successful  close. 

Our  work  in  the  Argentine,  however,  was  by  no  means 
completed.  After  a  short  return  trip  to  our  base,  we  went 
some  distance  farther  south  to  Aguilares,  a  village  similar 
to  San  Pablo  and  Acherdl.  Persimmons  and  tangerines 
were  in  season,  and  at  each  station  women  came  to  the  car- 
windows  offering  great  bunches  of  the  fruit  for  sale.  The 
former  were  most  attractive  while  on  the  trees;  they  were 
as  large  as  a  hen's  egg,  of  a  deep-red  color,  and  were  evenly 
distributed  among  the  dense,  green  foliage.  The  flavor  of 
both  was  excellent. 

Within  an  hour  after  reaching  Aguilares  we  had  been 
invited  to  visit  the  estate  of  a  wealthy  rice-grower  named 
Da  Costa,  and  soon  after  we  were  on  our  way,  his  son  taking 
us  there  in  a  carriage  while  the  luggage  went  in  a  cart.  At 
the  ranch  we  found  a  large,  rather  dilapidated  house  oc- 
cupied by  the  family  of  the  caretaker.  On  one  side  were 
great  rice-fields;  on  the  other,  totora  marshes,  pastures, 
and  woods.  The  place  was  most  attractive,  and  the  people 
altogether  delightful,  so  that  we  spent  over  two  weeks  busily 
engrossed  in  the  abundant  work  at  hand. 

The  marshes  covered  many  acres  and  were  filled  with 
cattails  except  for  a  few  narrow  lanes  of  open  water.  Coypu 


THE  CHACO  391 

rats  had  their  runways  crisscrossing  in  every  direction — 
sometimes  neat,  rounded  tunnels  with  the  bottom  just 
under  water,  and  again,  wide  trails  where  the  vegetation 
had  been  trampled  down.  They  look  like  very  large  musk- 
rats  and  their  skins,  known  commercially  as  nutria,  are  ex- 
ported by  hundreds  of  thousands  each  year  to  be  manu- 
factured into  felt  hats  of  the  better  quality.  We  caught 
several  that  gnawed  down  all  the  stalks  within  reach  and 
piled  them  into  neat  islands  on  which  to  sit.  They  feigned 
death  until  touched  with  a  stick  when  they  attempted  to 
bite  and  fought  viciously.  Jumping  mice  and  large,  light- 
brown,  woolly  rats  used  the  same  paths  as  their  bigger  rela- 
tives. One  afternoon  a  fine  individual  of  the  great  red  wolf 
we  had  secured  at  Corumbd  appeared  at  the  edge  of  the 
rushes  for  a  moment  only  to  vanish  into  the  dark  marsh 
at  our  first  movement;  a  few  minutes  later  he  was  seen 
loping  into  the  brush  several  hundreds  of  yards  away. 

Ducks  came  to  the  region  daily,  mostly  teals  and  rosy- 
bills,  but  in  small  numbers  only.  They  were  hard  to  get, 
as  wading  in  the  waist-deep,  ice-cold  water  and  mud  was 
slow  work  and  they  invariably  took  warning  and  left  while 
still  out  of  range.  At  night  flocks  of  painted  snipe  (Rostra- 
tula)  ventured  to  the  open  borders  to  feed.  While  we  were 
quietly  waiting,  a  dusky  form  appeared  and  began  to  probe 
the  mud  frantically,  to  be  joined  by  others  in  a  short  time. 
They  skipped  about  on  the  flats  adjoining  the  reed-beds  in  a 
most  erratic  manner,  reminding  one  of  the  actions  of  water- 
beetles,  and  upon  the  first  sign  of  danger  promptly  disap- 
peared in  the  labyrinth  of  stems  and  grasses.  They  seldom 
took  wing,  and  then  it  was  but  to  flutter  up  above  the  tallest 
reeds  and  immediately  drop  out  of  sight  in  the  thick  cover. 

It  is  to  this  region  of  dense  totara  marshes  that  the  cow- 
birds  revert  to  spend  the  winter  season,  arriving  from  all 
directions  in  comparatively  small  flocks,  but  increasing  in 
numbers  until  there  are  tens  of  thousands. 

As  the  rice  was  ripening  about  this  time,  the  birds  did  an 
enormous  amount  of  damage.  All  day  long,  men  on  horse- 


392  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

back  rode  back  and  forth  through  the  fields,  armed  with 
slings  and  a  bag  full  of  pebbles;  they  hurled  stones  and 
shouted  themselves  hoarse  in  a  vain  endeavor  to  frighten 
away  the  marauding  hosts. 

The  birds,  in  bands  of  a  few  individuals  to  several  hun- 
dred, arrived  each  morning  at  daybreak,  flying  low  and 
swiftly,  and  making  a  "swishing"  sound  as  they  cut  through 
the  air.  When  immediately  over  the  rice-fields,  the  band 
would  suddenly  swerve  as  if  to  circle,  but  drop  almost  in- 
stantly and  eat  greedily  without  a  moment's  delay.  Upon 
seeing  a  flock  approach,  the  men  threw  stones  and  shouted, 
often  succeeding  in  making  it  pass  straight  over  or  leave 
the  vicinity  after  circling  once  or  twice.  Should  the  birds 
alight,  the  hail  of  stones  soon  put  them  to  rout,  but  not 
until  a  few  grains  of  the  much-coveted  rice  had  been  secured 
by  each  individual. 

As  the  day  advanced  the  birds  spread  out  over  the  sur- 
rounding country  where  they  were  not  persecuted,  and 
spent  most  of  the  time  on  the  ground  near  the  cattle  and 
horses,  often  perched  on  the  backs  of  the  grazing  animals. 
At  nightfall  they  returned  to  the  cattails,  and  in  passing 
over  the  rice-fields  again  took  toll  from  the  planters.  The 
flocks  in  the  marshes  assumed  tremendous  proportions,  and 
the  babble  of  voices  resembled  a  rushing  wind;  the  roar 
of  wings,  if  the  masses  were  suddenly  startled  by  the  report 
of  a  gun,  was  not  unlike  the  roll  of  distant  thunder.  Before 
finally  settling  down  for  the  night  they  spent  some  time 
hopping  about  on  the  mud-flats  and  eating  minute  animal 
and  vegetable  matter. 

Carlos  S.  Reed,  F.  Z.  S.,  Director  of  the  Natural  History 
Museum,  Mendoza,  Argentine  Republic,  gives  the  results 
of  his  investigations  as  to  the  food  of  Molothrus  bonariensis 
in  a  paper  in  the  Revista  Chilena  de  Historia  Natural, 
aiio  XVII,  No.  3,  1913.  The  following  is  a  translation, 
as  literal  as  possible,  of  a  part  of  the  original  paper,  which 
is  written  in  Spanish: 

"In  the  summer  of  1910  there  occurred  in  various  de- 


THE  CHACO  393 

partments  of  the  Province  of  Mendoza,  a  great  invasion 
of  Isocas  (larvae  of  a  lepidopteran)  and  in  various  inspections 
which  I  realized  in  the  infected  countryside  I  was  able  to 
confirm  that  a  number  of  birds  occupied  themselves  in  eat- 
ing the  larvae  and  adults  of  these  Isocas  (Colzas  lesbia  Fabr.) 
and  among  them  Molothrus  bonariensis  predominated. 

"  It  is  also  a  voracious  destroyer  of  the  white  worm  (larva 
of  Ligyrus  bidentulus  Fairm.)  when  these  are  exposed  in 
ploughing  furrows  in  the  vineyards.  The  'bicho  de  cesto' 
(JEceticus  platensis  Berg)  is  also  very  much  persecuted  by 
the  bird  with  which  we  are  occupied. 

"The  corn-fields  suffer  damages  by  reason  of  Molothrus 
'bonariensis,  but  only  during  the  period  between  the  be- 
ginning of  the  ripening  of  the  ear  and  its  collection;  cer- 
tainly, one  ought  not  to  take  this  damage  into  considera- 
tion when,  during  eleven  months,  Molothrus  bonariensis 
has  fed  in  the  cultivated  country  on  other  products,  not 
on  maize,  and  among  these  has  predominated  the  larva 
of  Chloridea  armigera,  the  most  formidable  enemy  of  the 
maize-fields. 

"I  have  examined  the  stomach  contents  of  more  than 
sixty  specimens  of  Molothrus  bonariensis,  freshly  shot,  in 
the  various  seasons  and  have  encountered  about  90  per 
cent  of  substance  of  animal  origin  and  the  rest  grains, 
principally  maize,  but  the  maize  they  have  generally  ob- 
tained from  the  offal  of  horses  and  mules,  as  in  Mendoza 
a  good  deal  of  maize  is  given  to  working  animals,  and,  as 
the  grain  is  fed  entire,  a  goodly  percentage  of  it  is  eliminated 
without  having  been  digested.  It  is  for  this  reason  that 
one  frequently  finds  this  bird  scratching  among  and  turning 
over  the  offal.  This  custom  is  why  it  has  been  given  the 
name  of  virabosta  in  Brazil.  Therefore,  Molothrus  bona- 
riensis may  be  looked  upon  as  a  bird  helpful  rather  than 
destructive  to  agriculture." 

Rice  is  planted  in  "boxes"  about  twenty-five  feet  square. 
Water  is  supplied  through  a  system  of  canals  some  of  which 
are  many  miles  long,  and  its  level  is  regulated  by  sets  of 


394  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

locks  and  gates.  A  few  of  the  fields  had  already  been  cut 
over  and  the  sheaves  piled  in  stacks  to  dry.  Small  rodents — 
rats  and  mice — were  so  numerous  that  they  worked  great 
havoc.  We  ran  over  our  traps  thrice  daily  and  always  found 
all  of  them  filled.  At  dusk  short-eared  owls  came  to  the 
vicinity  and  perched  on  the  mounds  from  which  they  could 
swoop  down  and  capture  the  mice  that  teemed  in  the  stub- 
ble below.  I  fired  several  heavy  charges  of  shot  at  these 
birds  one  evening,  and  the  weather  being  clear  and  quiet, 
the  sound  carried  to  the  village  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
away.  Early  next  morning  a  police  sergeant  rode  up  and 
informed  us  that  we  were  under  arrest.  We  thanked  him 
for  the  information,  and  he  left  while  we  went  on  with  our 
work.  At  noon  another  orderly  came  to  repeat  the  message 
of  the  first,  and  to  add  that  we  were  expected  to  report  at 
the  police-station  immediately.  The  next  day  we  went  to 
see  what  all  the  trouble  was  about.  The  "jefe"  was  wait- 
ing for  us  at  the  entrance  to  the  jail,  surrounded  by  a  curious 
audience  of  townspeople.  He  looked  sad,  grave,  and  of- 
fended as  he  began:  "Senores,  I  heard  five  shots  night  be- 
fore last."  "Yes,  senor,"  I  interrupted,  "I  fired  at  least 
eight  or  ten."  "Pues,  that  is  absolutely  prohibited  here; 
one  may  not  shoot  under  any  circumstances  whatsoever, 
so  I  am  compelled  to  place  you  in  confinement."  At  this 
part  of  the  proceedings  I  merely  flashed  our  permit  and 
asked  him  why  the  governor  of  the  province  should  give 
out  such  a  document,  and  charge  two  pesos  for  it,  if  one 
could  not  hunt  under  any  circumstances.  He  was  taken 
completely  by  surprise  and  did  not  know  what  to  say,  so 
we  wished  him  good  morning  and  went  home,  much  to  the 
amusement  of  the  crowd  which  had  a  good  laugh  at  the 
jefe's  expense. 

The  Argentinians  are  inveterate  drinkers  of  mate.  It  is 
taken  from  a  bombilla,  as  in  Paraguay,  and  all  classes  of 
people  indulge  in  the  habit.  I  heard  that  a  law  had  recently 
been  passed  requiring  each  person  to  use  an  individual  tube 
as  the  old  system  of  everybody's  using  the  same  one  in- 


THE  CHACO  395 

discriminately  had  caused  the  spread  of  various  diseases, 
among  them  cancer  of  the  mouth,  at  an  alarming  rate.  Our 
good  friends  at  Los  Sarmientos  were  very  fond  of  their  daily 
brew,  and  usually  took  nothing  else  for  breakfast.  They 
at  first  very  generously  passed  the  steaming  bowl  to  us, 
but  soon  grew  accustomed  to  our  refusals  and  refrained 
from  extending  further  invitations  to  drink. 

The  weather  grew  rapidly  colder  and  rain  or  snow  fell 
almost  daily.  A  mantle  of  white  completely  covered  the 
Andes  stretching  in  an  unbroken  range  to  the  west  of  us; 
the  picture  presented  in  the  early  mornings  was  one  of  great 
beauty,  as  the  sun  lit  up  the  snowy  summits  with  a  rosy 
light,  while  a  thin  bank  of  purplish  vapor  enveloped  the 
foot  of  the  range  in  a  soft  mantle  of  regal  splendor. 

Hunting  in  the  marshes  grew  most  difficult  on  account 
of  the  cold,  and  the  thin  ice  through  which  we  had  to  crunch 
to  reach  the  better  collecting-grounds.  We  therefore  de- 
cided to  seek  a  friendlier  clime,  and  returned  to  Tucuman 
to  prepare  for  a  visit  to  the  desert  regions  of  Santiago  del 
Estero. 


CHAPTER  XXV 

VIZCACHA-HUNTING   IN   AN   ARGENTINE   DESERT- 
GIANT  SNAKES 

OUR  stay  in  Tucuman  lasted  but  a  few  days.  During 
this  time  our  Quechua  boy,  who  had  been  with  us  constantly 
since  our  first  arrival  in  Cochabamba,  spent  most  of  his 
time  at  the  zoological  park.  The  lions,  the  tigers,  even 
the  camels  did  not  interest  him  greatly;  but  the  elephant ! 
It  was  impossible  that  there  could  be  any  such  animal.  He 
spent  hour  after  hour  seated  on  the  ground  silently  con- 
templating the  great  creature.  I  wondered  what  his  people 
would  say  to  him  when  he  returned  to  them  and  attempted 
to  describe  what  he  had  seen. 

As  our  next  efforts  were  to  be  directed  toward  a  new 
province,  it  was  again  necessary  to  secure  the  very  essen- 
tial permits.  This  time  there  was  no  trouble.  At  San- 
tiago del  Estero,  a  backward  city  of  small  size  and  not  par- 
ticularly attractive  appearance,  we  were  required  merely 
to  be  photographed  and  have  our  finger-prints  taken,  after 
which  we  received  certificates  stating  that  we  had  no  police 
record  in  that  state  and  were  assumed  to  be  respectable 
and  trustworthy;  the  licenses  to  hunt  were  attached.  We 
wasted  no  time  in  the  city  and  took  the  first  available  train 
to  Suncho  Corral,  about  a  five  hours'  ride. 

Suncho  Corral  is  a  collection  of  perhaps  fifty  adobe  shacks, 
and  its  inhabitants  seemed  to  be  mostly  Turks  and  Syrians. 
We  paid  our  respects  to  the  local  jefe  without  delay  and 
he  secured  for  us  permission  to  camp  on  the  landholding 
of  a  friend  of  his;  the  place  was  about  a  mile  distant.  We 
pitched  the  tents  in  a  delightful  grove  on  the  bank  of  the 
Rio  Salido.  All  the  country  is  covered  with  a  dense  growth 
of  cacti,  shrubbery,  and  tall,  thorny  trees;  it  was  unlike 
any  we  had  seen  before.  There  were  a  few  small  areas 


VIZCACHA-HUNTING  AND  GIANT  SNAKES       397 

cleared  of  the  indigenous  growth  and  planted  in  corn,  which 
thrived;  water  was  supplied  by  irrigation.  However,  the 
people,  who  lived  in  widely  separated  huts,  seemed  to  sub- 
sist mainly  on  their  flocks  of  sheep,  goats,  and  the  limited 
number  of  cattle.  There  were  so  many  dogs  in  the  neigh- 
borhood that  they  were  a  plague.  Each  night  numbers 
prowled  about  camp,  barking,  fighting,  and  trying  to  tear 
open  bags  of  provisions.  We  did  not  know  how  to  get  rid 
of  them  without  killing  them,  and  this  we  did  not  wish  to 
do;  but  our  boy  found  a  way.  One  night  we  heard  series 
after  series  of  yelps  followed  by  frantic  rushes  to  distant 
parts.  Next  morning  we  discovered  that  Antonio  had  set 
a  dozen  large,  powerful  "rat-killers"  around  the  tent,  baited 
with  tempting  morsels  of  meat.  When  a  dog  attempted  to 
take  the  food  it  received  a  terrific  blow  across  the  nose — 
hence  the  yelps.  We  of  course  stopped  the  practice,  but 
the  dogs  did  not  return  in  sufficient  numbers  to  be  trouble- 
some. 

The  water  of  the  Rio  Salido  is  brackish  and  unfit  for 
drinking.  There  were  few  fish — catfish  and  a  species  of 
pacu.  We  had  no  time  for  angling,  but  occasionally  saw 
a  string  caught  by  some  villager. 

About  the  first  bird  to  attract  our  attention  was  a  species 
of  wood-hewer  with  a  curved  bill  three  or  four  inches  long. 
They  were  always  seen  in  pairs  or  small  flocks,  often  in 
company  with  the  very  common  woodpecker  (Chrysoptilus) . 
Occasionally  there  were  half  a  dozen  of  the  former  and 
twenty  or  more  of  the  latter  in  a  single  party,  on  the  ground, 
feeding  on  insects  and  larvae  that  lived  in  the  litter  of  bark 
and  leaves  under  the  giant  cactus  plants.  They  formed  a 
noisy  group,  especially  if  alarmed,  when  they  took  to  the 
trees  or  cacti  and  kept  up  a  continuous  chirping.  They 
tried  to  keep  on  the  far  side  of  the  trunks  and  branches, 
but  curiosity  prompted  them  to  peep  around  the  edges 
frequently  to  see  what  was  going  on.  The  giant  wood- 
hewer  (Xiphocolaptes  major),  as  large  as  a  mourning-dove 
and  with  a  long,  powerful  beak,  was  far  less  common.  An- 


398  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

other  bird  frequently  found  in  company  with  any  or  all 
of  the  former  was  a  species  of  brush-bird  the  size  of  a  blue 
jay,  but  of  a  brown  color;  it  built  stick-nests  three  feet 
across  that  must  have  weighed  up  to  fifty  pounds.  We 
also  saw  for  the  first  time  a  bird  whose  habits  reminded 
us  greatly  of  the  road-runner.  It  ran  along  the  ground 
with  crest  erected  and  tail  held  high,  and  was  so  wary  that 
one  could  not  approach  it  within  shooting  distance.  But 
the  moment  it  reached  a  thicket  and  hopped  up  into  the 
branches  it  lost  practically  all  caution  and  we  could  get  to 
within  a  few  yards  of  it.  Perhaps  the  bird's  chief  enemies 
are  terrestrial — hence  its  extremely  suspicious  nature  while 
on  the  ground,  and  the  apparent  feeling  of  safety  when 
in  a  bush  or  tree. 

Next,  we  again  headed  for  the  Chaco,  having  as  our  goal 
a  station  called  Avia  Terai,  about  half-way  to  Resistencia 
on  the  Paraguay  River.  The  train  was  packed  with  Italian 
home-seekers;  they  were  a  noisy,  quarrelsome  lot.  Many  of 
them  were  drunk  or  ill,  and  so  many  unsavory  things  were 
occurring  constantly  in  the  coaches  (there  were  no  compart- 
ment-cars), that  we  remained  in  the  buffet-car.  An  aged 
bishop,  accompanied  by  two  priests,  were  fellow  passengers. 
The  prelate  got  off  at  each  stop  to  bless  the  crowds  that 
had  collected  to  see  him,  and  then  as  many  as  possible 
knelt  to  kiss  his  ring  before  the  train  pulled  out.  After  the 
trio  returned  to  their  table,  the  two  priests  promptly  fell 
asleep  while  their  venerable  superior  read  from  a  small 
prayer-book.  I  wondered  why  he  tolerated  such  sleepy, 
uninteresting  companions.  At  midnight  we  reached  Ana- 
tuya  and  changed  to  another  train.  This  place  was  one  of 
wild  confusion.  There  were  mountains  of  luggage  piled  on 
the  platform,  and  mobs  of  excited  people  rushing  wildly 
about  in  vain  attempts  to  locate  their  belongings.  I  was 
alarmed  over  the  safety  of  our  own  possessions,  so  stationed 
the  faithful  Antonio  near  the  door  of  the  baggage-car  with 
instructions  to  let  me  know  when  unloading  began;  we  then 
secured  peons  to  immediately  carry  the  trunks  and  bags 


VIZCACHA-HUNTING  AND  GIANT  SNAKES       399 

to  our  train,  thus  avoiding  their  being  dumped  on  the  huge 
piles,  and  perhaps  lost. 

In  the  early  morning  we  reached  Quimili,  at  which  place 
a  siding  branches  off  to  Tintina;  most  of  the  immigrants 
went  in  this  direction.  The  country  was  all  flat  and  covered 
with  grass.  Later  on  clumps  of  forest  appeared  which  grew 
larger  and  denser  as  we  went  farther  east.  There  were 
numerous  stops  but  no  towns  of  any  importance.  At 
2.30  P.  M.,  the  train  halted  at  Avia  Terai,  and  we  were  soon 
encamped  in  the  rear  of  one  of  the  two  huts  comprising 
that  station. 

About  all  we  could  see  from  our  abode  was  an  immense 
area  covered  with  tall  weeds,  surrounded  by  dense  forest. 
Sand-flies,  called  polvorinos,  filled  the  air  like  flecks  of  dust 
so  that  we  had  to  keep  a  smudge  going  most  of  the  time. 
The  people  said  there  was  a  great  deal  of  malaria  in  the 
neighborhood,  and  one  look  into  their  faces  was  ample  to 
substantiate  the  statement.  Usually  it  was  very  hot;  it 
rained  most  of  the  time,  but  occasionally  the  nights  were 
very  cold — an  altogether  disagreeable  combination  of 
weather. 

One  of  our  trunks,  containing  all  the  instruments,  had 
mysteriously  disappeared  from  the  baggage-car,  so  we  had 
only  a  pocket-knife  with  which  to  work;  but,  by  putting 
in  longer  hours  we  managed  to  keep  up  to  our  average  daily 
number  in  preparing  specimens.  We  gave  the  conductor 
of  a  passing  train  a  tip  of  several  pesos,  and  on  his  next 
run  he  brought  us  the  missing  trunk,  saying  that  he  had 
found  it  at  a  station  a  few  miles  below. 

It  was  impossible  to  explore  the  country  as  thoroughly 
as  we  should  have  liked  on  account  of  the  almost  incessant 
rain.  When  the  downpour  did  stop,  which  was  at  dusk, 
flocks  of  large,  white-bellied  night-hawks  appeared  and  cir- 
cled above  the  grass,  catching  insects.  They  were  beauti- 
ful creatures,  and  always  came  back  to  the  same  restricted 
areas  to  feed  on  small  black  beetles  that  flew  up  in  great 
numbers  from  the  grass.  As  darkness  settled  over  the 


400  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Chaco  the  flocks  suddenly  dispersed  and  they  disappeared 
singly  in  all  directions.  We  found  them  spending  the  days 
in  open  places — out  in  the  hot  sun  or  rain.  The  railroad- 
track,  or  small  plots  where  there  was  not  even  grass,  were 
the  favorite  sleeping-sites  chosen,  and  sometimes  two  or 
three  were  found  together. 

After  a  week  we  returned  over  the  route  we  had  come 
to  a  station  called  General  Pinedo.  This  was  a  new  settle- 
ment and  several  dozen  board  huts  were  being  constructed 
on  both  sides  of  the  track.  Here  there  were  seemingly  limit- 
less stretches  of  fine  pampas  with  occasional  small  clumps 
of  red  quebracho-woods.  Numbers  of  cattle  grazed  in 
the  rich  grass,  and  this  place  was  much  more  attractive 
than  the  one  we  had  just  left.  As  might  be  supposed,  the 
fauna  was  typical  of  the  open  country  and  included  an 
abundance  of  short-eared  and  burrowing  owls.  The  latter 
sat  on  fence-posts  or  on  the  mounds  near  their  burrows 
all  day  long;  at  night  they  became  very  active  and  flew 
back  and  forth  over  the  fields  grabbing  up  beetles  and  small 
rodents  with  their  feet.  Their  long,  tremulous  screeches 
pierced  the  darkness  all  night  long. 

On  Sunday  all  the  men  congregated  at  the  two  rum-shops 
and  tested  their  capacities  for  strong  drink.  Often  the 
day  ended  in  a  series  of  brawls  when  knives  and  machetes 
were  plied  freely — orjce  with  fatal  result  to  one  of  the  com- 
padfes.  I  asked  one  of  the  guards  what  would  be  done  with 
the-  murderer,  who  had  promptly  been  arrested.  He  said 
that  if  he  could  give  two  hundred  pesos  to  the  commisario 
and  ten  to  each  of  the  guard&,  the  matter  would  be  dropped. 
Later  I  Was  told  that  the  matter  had  been  "fixed  up"  satis- 
factorily, but  of  course  could  not  verify  this. 

June  14  found  us  in  the  village  of  Lavalle,  in  the  heart 
-of  Argentina's  desert  regions.  When  the  train  from  Tucu- 
man  pulled  out,  leaving  ourselves  and  our  belongings  on 
the  station  platform,  we  at  once  began  to  regret  that  we 
had  come  at  all.  The  place  looked  decidedly  uninviting. 
There  was  only  the  small  cluster  of  adobe  hovels,  while  all 


VIZCACHA-HUNTING  AND  GIANT  SNAKES       401 

around  stretched  the  cheerless  waste  of  sandy  desert.  That 
there  could  be  any  considerable  amount  of  wild  life  in  the 
region  seemed  impossible;  but,  as  we  soon  discovered  to 
our  unbounded  delight,  it  was  only  one  of  the  instances 
where  first  impressions  are  deceptive. 

Our  first  care  was  to  find  a  place  where  we  could  put  up 
as  we  had  come  prepared  to  remain  a  week;  so  we  inquired 
of  the  station  agent  if  there  was  a  posada  in  town.  He 
promptly  said  that  there  was  none.  Then  we  called  on 
the  judge,  to  whom  we  had  a  letter  of  introduction.  He 
took  us  to  the  home  of  a  kind-hearted  old  woman  who  imme- 
diately agreed  to  give  us  a  room  and  board;  and  here  let 
me  insert  that  in  no  place  in  all  South  America  were  we 
treated  with  more  courtesy  and  consideration  than  in  the 
home  of  this  venerable  old  woman,  during  the  entire  month 
we  finally  remained.  Learning  of  our  mission,  her  three 
daughters  became  very  enthusiastic  and  plied  us  with  in- 
formation about  the  country,  and  the  vast  numbers  of 
animals  to  be  found  within  a  short  distance  of  their  very 
doors.  They  told  us  that  the  country  was  teeming  with 
vizcachas — large  rodents  that  weigh  up  to  twenty-five 
pounds  and  come  out  of  their  burrows  only  at  night.  We 
wanted  to  go  out  and  hunt  them  at  once  but,  unfortunately, 
there  was  no  moonlight  during  the  first  part  of  our  stay, 
so  it  was  impossible  to  go  in  quest  of  them.  We  therefore 
devoted  our  time  looking  for  other  things. 

Investigation  showed  that  the  country  was  not  quite 
so  barren  as  it  had  at  first  appeared.  A  short  walk  took 
us  into  a  region  where  there  was  a  dense  growth  of  cacti 
and  thorny  shrubbery — so  thick  in  fact  that  it  was  almost 
impossible  to  get  through;  many  of  the  former  plants  were 
in  bloom,  the  spiny  columns  being  covered  with  large  white, 
waxy  flowers.  Here  and  there  a  native  hut  adorned  the 
top  of  a  small  rise  in  the  landscape,  and  near  by  we  were 
sure  to  see  the  inevitable  flock  of  goats  nibbling  on  the  leaves 
of  acacia  and  mimosa,  and  guarded  by  bad-tempered  dogs. 
A  little  distance  away  from  each  hovel  was  a  pond  of  con- 


402  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

siderable  size;  these  fill  up  during  the  short  rainy  season 
and  their  contents  are  used  to  water  the  stock  and  to  irrigate 
the  small  patches  of  corn  and  potatoes. 

Everywhere  we  came  across  evidences  of  the  animals 
about  which  we  had  heard  so  much.  The  country  was 
dotted  with  huge  mounds  out  of  which  large  tunnels  opened. 
From  the  mouths  of  the  burrows  lead  deeply  worn  paths 
and  in  these  the  ground  had  been  trampled  into  dust 
six  inches  deep.  The  mounds  are  built  up  by  the  vizcachas, 
of  the  earth  thrown  out  of  the  tunnels,  and  they  take  ad- 
vantage of  the  hillocks  thus  created  by  using  them  as  ob- 
servation-posts before  going  far  away  from  their  homes. 
The  tops  are  often  strewn  with  skulls  and  bones  of  the 
large  rodents  that  have  died  in  the  burrows  and  which 
have  been  thrown  out  by  the  survivors.  Burrowing  owls 
sat  on  the  mounds,  and  swallows  flitted  in  and  out  of  the 
openings  below.  There  were  also  the  telltale  little  foot- 
prints of  numerous  small  animals  which  appropriated  the 
vizcacha's  dwelling  for  their  own  use  and  apparently  lived 
on  peaceful  terms  with  it.  We  wondered  how  far  the  tun- 
nels ran  underground,  and  how  many  species  of  animals 
occupied  them,  but  there  was  nothing  to  give  us  a  clue  to 
the  answer  of  either  conjecture.  As  the  time  flew  by, 
however,  we  learned  many  things,  and  one  at  least  was  of 
a  startling  character. 

The  days  were  cold  and  the  sun  shone  at  infrequent  in- 
tervals. Desirous  of  taking  some  photographs,  we  selected 
one  of  the  brightest  days,  and,  armed  with  guns  and 
cameras,  we  sallied  forth.  After  a  time  we  found  a  viz- 
cacha  mound  which  was  conveniently  situated,  and  walked 
around  it  a  few  times  in  order  to  find  the  best  spot  from 
which  to  take  the  picture.  We  noticed  nothing  unusual 
about  it,  and  finally  set  up  the  camera  and  began  to  focus. 
While  thus  engaged,  with  my  head  under  the  black  cloth, 
I  was  suddenly  startled  by  a  wild  yell  from  my  companion 
and  looked  just  in  time  to  see  him  make  a  long  jump  to 
one  side.  The  reason  was  apparent.  There,  not  three  feet 


VIZCACHA-HUNTING  AND  GIANT  SNAKES       403 

away,  lay  a  huge  boa  emitting  a  hiss  that  resembled  a  jet  of 
escaping  steam.  Why  we  had  not  seen  it  before  is  hard 
to  understand,  as  it  lay  fully  exposed  on  the  bare  ground; 
but  probably  it  was  because  the  great  reptile  had  lain 
motionless.  Now  it  was  slowly  crawling,  and  the  broad, 
mottled  back  glistened  beautifully  in  the  sunlight,  with  a 
purple  iridescent  sheen.  We  poked,  and  finally  touched  it, 
but  as  it  did  not  resent  these  advances  we  took  its  picture; 
then  it  seemed  to  grow  weary  of  our  attentions  and  made 
for  the  nearest  hole,  whereupon  we  shot  it.  Upon  taking 
the  snake  to  the  village  the  natives  told  us  that  they  were 
very  abundant  and  lived  down  in  the  burrows  with  the 
vizcachas.  During  the  cold  season  they  crawl  out  at  noon 
for  a  sun-bath,  but  are  very  sluggish.  Subsequently,  we 
saw  many  more,  and  even  kept  a  number  of  them  alive; 
they  grew  tame  and  friendly  almost  at  once  and  never  at- 
tempted to  bite. 

There  are  two  distinct  species,  namely:  the  boa-con- 
strictor, or  land-snake;  and  the  anaconda,  which  spends 
the  greater  part  of  its  life  in  and  near  water.  This  latter 
attains  the  greater  length.  A  fully  grown  boa-constrictor 
does  not  exceed  twelve  feet  in  length;  ten  or  eleven  feet  is 
the  usual  size  attained.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  the 
tempers  of  the  two  species.  A  boa  soon  becomes  very  tame, 
and  in  many  places  the  natives  keep  them  running  at  large 
in  the  huts  to  catch  rats.  The  anaconda  is  of  a  restless 
disposition  and  easily  irritated.  Both  will  bite  if  annoyed, 
and  while  they  are  not  poisonous,  they  hold  very  tight  with 
the  strong,  curved  teeth  so  that  if  one  tried  to  pull  away 
from  them  the  flesh  would  probably  be  torn  to  shreds. 

Of  course  it  is  a  well-known  fact  that  snakes  are  descen- 
dants of  the  lizards;  they  have  lost  their  legs,  but  in  the 
boa  two  good-sized  claws  are  still  found  on  the  under-side, 
near  the  tail,  extending  out  a  little  distance  from  between 
the  plates. 

We  collected  a  number  of  the  giant  reptiles  for  their 
skins.  Skinning  a  boa-constrictor  is  not  an  easy  undertaking. 


404  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

We  always  made  an  incision  all  along  the  under-side,  from 
the  neck  to  the  end  of  the  tail,  and  then  loosened  the  skin 
from  the  tail  end  with  a  knife.  This  would  leave  enough 
of  the  body  exposed  for  a  good  hand-hold;  after  this,  one 
took  hold  of  the  body,  and  the  other  of  the  skin;  then  a 
real  tug-of-war  ensued  as  the  skin  very  slowly  peeled  off. 
Sometimes  it  was  necessary  to  throw  a  hitch  around  a  tree 
in  order  to  get  a  better  grip  on  the  body.  After  the  skin 
was  removed,  it  was  scraped  and  tacked  out  on  the  wall 
and  left  for  a  few  days  to  dry;  it  could  then  be  rolled  up 
and  packed  for  shipment. 

The  skins  tan  beautifully,  and  make  very  desirable 
decorations  for  the  mantel  for  den  or  library. 

Other  days  we  spent  hunting  tiger-cats,  deer,  jack-rab- 
bits, rheas  (South  American  ostriches),  and  others  of  the 
animals  which  were  so  abundant. 

Early  morning  was  the  best  time  for  cats.  They  could 
then  be  found  in  the  open  paths  stalking  cavies,  with  which 
the  country  swarmed,  or  tinamou.  They  are  prettily 
spotted,  and  somewhat  larger  than  a  house-cat.  Upon 
being  seen  they  pause  for  a  moment  to  gaze  at  the  intruder, 
and  then  vanish  into  the  bushes  in  a  single  bound.  Small 
deer  with  spike-horns  are  not  rare  but  are  hard  to  get.  They 
hide  in  the  thick  cover  and  can  usually  hear  a  person  com- 
ing far  enough  away  to  disappear  from  the  neighborhood 
without  being  seen.  Rheas  travel  about  in  bands  but  are 
wary;  it  is  almost  impossible  to  approach  them  on  foot, 
and  they  soon  learn  to  regard  a  man  on  horseback  with 
suspicion.  The  natives  kill  large  numbers  with  rifle  and 
bolas;  they  eat  the  flesh  and  sell  the  feathers.  Three  years 
ago  I  saw  sixty  tons  of  rhea  feathers  in  a  single  warehouse 
in  Buenos  Aires,  all  of  which  had  been  taken  from  killed 
birds  and  were  destined  to  be  used  in  making  feather 
dusters.  However,  the  bird  is  still  abundant.  Many  large 
flocks  are  kept  on  cattle-ranches.  The  eggs,  the  contents 
of  which  are  equal  to  a  dozen  hen's  eggs,  are  sold  in  the 
markets  during  the  laying  season. 


Skinning  a  boa. 


Boa  sunning  itself  at  the  entrance  to  a  vizcacha  burrow. 


VIZCACHA-HUNTING  AND  GIANT  SNAKES       405 

At  last  the  long-awaited  time  arrived  when  the  full  moon 
lighted  up  the  landscape,  so  we  made  preparations  to  go 
in  pursuit  of  the  wily  vizcacha.  The  judge  sent  word  for 
us  to  be  ready  early  one  afternoon  as  he  was  going  to  ac- 
company us,  and  we  could  spend  a  few  hours  beforehand 
to  advantage  looking  for  other  things.  Two  o'clock  found 
us  clamoring  at  his  door,  and  a  few  minutes  later  we  had 
started  on  our  excursion. 

The  judge  carried  a  double-barrelled  shotgun  of  Euro- 
pean make;  his  ten-year-old  son,  whom  he  always  called 
the  secretario,  had  a  "nigger-killer,"  a  large  bag  full  of 
pebbles  and  a  machete;  he  was  a  fine  little  fellow,  always 
friendly,  always  polite,  and  nothing  suited  him  better  than 
to  tramp  at  his  father's  heels  on  the  long  excursions  into 
the  country.  I  had  my  Parker  which  had  served  me  so 
splendidly  in  many  places. 

For  an  hour  or  two  we  tramped  broad  reaches  of  cactus 
desert;  but  it  was  silent  as  the  very  sphinx,  and  we  saw 
nothing.  However,  as  the  sun  began  to  drop  slowly  out 
of  sight,  things  began  to  stir.  At  first  we  heard  a  shrill 
turkey-like  gobble  some  distance  away,  and  holding  up 
his  hand  to  command  silence,  the  judge  whispered:  "Chuna; 
they  are  right  over  there.  You  and  the  secretario  go  down 
-this  little  path,  and  I'll  go  on  this  side;  quien  sabe  ?  we  might 
head  them  off."  His  fine  Spanish  face  beamed  with  ex- 
Jcitement  as  he  turned  away. 

We  sneaked  along  for  a  distance  of  a  hundred  yards, 
and  presently  I  saw  a  pair  of  gray  forms  moving  swiftly 
away  underneath  the  thorny  growth.  They  looked  like 
fleeting  shadows,  and  there  was  time  for  a  hurried  shot 
only.  The  secretario  rushed  forward  and  triumphantly 
brought  back  a  large,  crested,  crane-like  bird  of  a  uniform 
gray  color,  the  common  name  of  which  is  seriema.  In  some 
ways  the  bird  resembles  a  hawk.  It  lives  on  the  ground 
and  eats  grasshoppers,  cavies,  mice,  and  almost  anything 
it  can  catch  and  swallow;  at  night  it  roosts  in  the  trees. 
Its  flesh  is  excellent.  Perhaps  no  bird  is  more  wary  or  harder 


406  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

to  hunt  in  this  entire  region,  so  we  were  highly  elated  with 
our  first  shot. 

Many  birds  began  to  appear  now;  there  were  the  long- 
billed  brown  wood-hewers  we  had  seen  at  Suncho  Corral; 
Argentine  "road-runners"  which  perked  their  tails  and 
sped  away  into  the  thickets;  large  brownish  lenadores,  sing- 
ing on  the  edges  of  their  huge  nests;  there  were  also  wood- 
peckers, hawks,  cardinals,  and  doves. 

The  judge  suggested  that  we  visit  one  of  the  reservoirs 
as  we  might  find  ducks  there,  and  calmly  floating  on  the 
very  first  one  we  came  to  was  a  small  flock  of  shovellers; 
they  saw  us  just  too  late,  and  one  was  added  to  the  bag 
as  they  rose  from  the  water. 

We  now  cut  across  a  little  field  from  which  the  corn  had 
been  gathered,  and  here  we  were  kept  busy  for  some  time 
picking  off  the  swift-winged  tinamou  as  they  rushed  away 
at  our  approach.  I  know  of  no  bird  which  furnishes  better 
shooting  or  better  eating,  and  the  pity  of  it  is  that  it  does 
not  exist  in  our  own  country.  After  we  had  shot  a  number, 
the  judge  suggested  that  we  might  try  for  a  fox  as  they 
would  soon  be  prowling  about,  so  he  tied  a  string  to  the 
foot  of  one  of  the  freshly  killed  birds  and  the  secretario 
dragged  it  on  the  ground  after  him  as  he  walked  along. 
Some  time  later  we  sat  down  to  rest,  and  much  to  my  sur- 
prise a  fox  appeared  on  the  trail  of  the  bird;  as  he  stopped 
short,  at  sight  of  us,  the  judge  bagged  him,  and  he  proved 
to  be  the  largest  and  the  finest  of  the  dozen  or  more  we  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  during  our  entire  stay.  These  foxes,  which 
are  of  a  rich  gray  color,  silver-tipped,  spend  a  great  part 
of  their  time  in  dens  in  the  vizcacha  burrows,  but  seem  to 
feed  principally  on  tinamou  and  other  birds. 

Cavies  without  number  ran  about  under  the  low  bushes, 
and  uttered  queer  little  squeaks  as  they  became  frightened 
and  dashed  into  the  holes  which  honeycombed  the  ground; 
but  of  the  giant  cavy  we  had  not  a  glimpse  until  we  entered 
a  dry,  little  gully;  there  we  were  just  in  time  to  see  a  flee- 
ing, rabbit-hike  form,  which  was  added  to  our  assortment. 


Oculto,  or  Tucotuco,  a  rare  rodent  with  mole-like  habits. 


Gray  fox,  abundant  in  the  semiarid  regions. 


VIZCACHA-HUNTING  AND  GIANT  SNAKES       407 

As  the  sun  set,  large  flocks  of  blue-crowned  parrakeets 
flew  screaming  overhead  to  seek  their  sleeping-quarters 
in  the  tops  of  the  gnarled,  stunted  trees;  and  gray-throated 
parrakeets  hurried  to  their  bulky  stick  nests  to  chatter 
and  quarrel  before  settling  for  the  night.  The  latter  species 
is  an  abundant  bird  in  the  Chaco  of  Brazil  and  Paraguay  as 
well  as  in  the  Argentine.  In  the  Argentine  its  range  ex- 
tends eastward  into  the  province  of  Tucumdn,  while  it  is 
most  plentiful  in  Santiago  del  Estero.  They  are  extremely 
noisy  and  live  and  travel  in  flocks  of  a  dozen  to  several  thou- 
sand individuals.  Should  one  approach  a  tree  in  which 
a  band  is  feeding  or  resting,  all  chatter  is  hushed.  But  the 
birds  crane  their  necks  and  noiselessly  clamber  to  points 
of  vantage  from  which  they  suspiciously  eye  the  intruder. 
Then  there  is  a  sudden  burst  of  wild  screams  as  the  whole 
colony  takes  wing  and  swiftly  departs  at  great  speed.  They 
feed  largely  upon  the  thistle  and  on  cactus  fruits  as  well 
as  on  grain  when  it  is  to  be  had. 

The  nests  vary  in  size  from  those  containing  not  more 
than  an  armful  of  twigs,  and  occupied  by  a  single  pair  of 
birds,  to  huge  structures  weighing  several  hundred  pounds 
and  harboring  a  dozen  familes.  Frequently  three  or  four 
nests  are  placed  in  the  same  tree,  and  usually  a  number  of 
trees  in  a  given  area  are  occupied.  The  ground  beneath 
the  domiciles  is  strewn  with  a  thick  litter  of  old  nesting 
material  that  has  fallen  from  the  disused  bulky  masses 
above. 

The  nesting  cavities  are  in  the  under-side  of  the  "apart- 
ments," and  entrance  to  them  is  gained  through  tubular 
openings  underneath,  which  prevents  opossums  from  en- 
tering them.  It  is  not  unusual  to  find  a  family  of  the  mar- 
supials living  in  a  cavity  in  the  upper  part  of  the  structure, 
but  so  strongly  are  the  twigs  interlaced  that  they  are  un- 
able to  tear  their  way  through  the  thorny  mass  to  the  tooth- 
some morsels  that  are  so  tantalizingly  near.  The  birds 
occupy  the  nests  throughout  the  year  and  it  is  rare  to  find 
them  entirely  deserted  at  any  hour  of  the  day.  The  eggs 


408  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

are  white,  slightly  glossy,  and  of  an  oval  shape;  five  to  eight 
comprise  a  set.  With  the  approach  of  darkness  small  birds 
seemed  to  disappear  among  the  cacti.  The  secretario  kept 
up  a  constant  fusillade  with  his  sling,  but  he  was  a  poor 
shot  and  did  no  damage. 

Finally  the  judge  suggested  supper,  so  we  sat  down  on 
a  fallen  cactus  trunk  from  which  the  spines  had  decayed, 
and  enjoyed  the  bread,  sausage,  and  tangerines  which  the 
boy  fished  out  of  the  bag  containing  his  pebbles  and  sun- 
dry articles;  then,  in  answer  to  our  call,  a  plump  Quechua 
squaw  brought  a  gourd  of  water  from  her  near-by  hovel; 
we  gave  her  a  cigarette  in  return,  which  pleased  her  so  much 
that  she  showed  us  a  wonderful  vizcacha  village  not  far 
distant,  which,  she  said,  harbored  the  largest  and  fattest 
of  the  rodents  to  be  found  in  the  district;  she  also  agreed 
to  take  charge  of  our  game  so  that  we  would  not  be  ham- 
pered with  it  the  rest  of  the  evening. 

The  great  silvery  moon  now  began  to  peep  above  the 
cloudless  horizon,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  whole  country 
was  flooded  with  light.  Not  a  plant  grew  on  the  broad 
acres  the  Indian  woman  had  pointed  out;  there  was  only 
the  dead  stump  of  a  cactus  here  and  there,  but  these  loomed 
tall  and  ghostlike  in  the  mellow  light.  Soon  we  heard  deep, 
guttural  grunts,  followed  by  shrill  squeaks,  and  in  a  low 
tone  the  judge  said  "vizcachas."  Then  he  dug  down  into 
his  pockets  and  produced  some  beeswax  and  cotton,  so 
each  of  us  fixed  a  small  fluff  on  the  sight  of  our  guns,  and 
were  then  ready  for  business.  We  had  not  gone  a  hundred 
yards,  after  this,  when  the  judge  pointed  to  a  mound  ahead, 
and  there,  looming  high  above  the  yellow  earth,  sat  some 
great,  restless  creature,  squeaking  and  grunting.  My  com- 
panion had  explained  to  me  the  business  of  stalking,  a  score 
of  times,  so  I  set  out  as  directed,  making  a  wide  detour  in 
order  to  get  behind  a  cactus  stump;  but  I  am  afraid  the 
excitement  was  too  great  and  I  went  too  fast,  for  the  first 
thing  I  knew  there  was  a  glimpse  of  a  fleeting,  shadowy 
form,  a  sharp,  shrill  squeal,  and  the  mound  was  bare. 


VIZCACHA-HUNTING  AND  GIANT  SNAKES        409 

A  few  minutes  later  we  could  make  out  another  animal 
some  little  distance  away,  so  the  judge  went  after  it;  he 
crept  up  cautiously,  pausing  at  frequent  intervals;  then 
there  was  a  bright  flash,  followed  by  a  loud  report,  and 
we  all  rushed  forward  to  pick  up  the  first  vizcacha.  His 
disappointment  was  great  when  he  found  that  he  had 
"potted"  a  nice  little  cactus  stump. 

It  was  not  long  before  we  saw  another  of  the  animals. 
It  being  my  turn,  I  began  to  stalk,  profiting  by  past  experi- 
ence. The  creature  was  outlined  clearly,  and  frequently 
it  sat  up  to  look  about;  then  the  white  breast  showed  dis- 
tinctly. When  the  vizcacha  sat  up,  I  stopped;  when  it 
dropped  down  on  all  fours,  I  crept  on.  At  forty  yards  I 
took  the  shot,  and  this  time  luck  was  with  us.  When  we 
reached  the  spot  the  animal  was  tumbling  about,  and  the 
judge  yelled  not  to  touch  it,  as  they  can  inflict  serious 
wounds  with  their  sharp  teeth  and  claws.  At  this  stage  of 
the  game  the  secretario  came  in  for  his  share  of  the  work; 
he  followed  the  dancing  form  in  its  erratic  course,  and  finally 
dealt  it  a  blow  on  the  neck  with  the  blunt  side  of  the 
machete,  killing  it.  It  was  a  splendid  specimen,  weighing  a 
trifle  over  eighteen  pounds,  as  we  later  discovered.  It  dif- 
fered from  the  species  found  in  the  high  mountains  in  hav- 
ing a  shorter  tail  and  coarse  fur,  besides  being  much  larger; 
the  appearance  of  the  former  had  always  brought  to  my 
mind  a  combination  of  a  squirrel  and  a  rabbit;  this  creature 
was,  well,  simply  a  vizcacha;  there  is  nothing  else  like  it. 
The  color  is  slaty-blue  on  the  back  and  white  under- 
neath. 

After  that  the  animals  began  to  appear  on  all  sides  as 
the  village  was  very  large  and  there  were  numerous  mounds; 
it  was  therefore  a  comparatively  easy  matter  to  secure  the 
half-dozen  we  wanted,  although  I  am  compelled  to  admit 
that  each  of  us  shot  at  least  one  more  stump  before  the 
evening  was  over.  If  not  killed  by  the  first  shot,  the  crea- 
tures frequently  tumble  into  their  burrows  and  are  lost- 
The  males  leave  the  hiding-places  first,  and  after  spending 


410  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

a  short  time  looking  about  from  the  top  of  the  mounds, 
spread  out  over  the  surrounding  country  to  feed;  the  females 
follow  a  short  time  later,  and  both  return  at  the  break  of 
day.  On  account  of  their  great  numbers  in  some  parts  of 
the  country,  they  destroy  vast  areas  of  pasturage  and  are 
therefore  looked  upon  as  vermin.  We  heard  the  reports 
of  guns  frequently,  not  far  away,  indicating  that  other 
hunting-parties  were  out.  The  flesh  of  the  animal  is  greatly 
esteemed  by  the  natives. 

Another  of  the  secretariats  duties  was  to  carry  the  game; 
but  this  was  soon  too  heavy  for  him,  so  we  helped.  Then 
he  made  the  discovery  that  the  animals  were  covered  with 
fleas,  ticks,  and  other  parasites,  and  that  this  host  of  un- 
welcome guests  preferred  him  to  the  dead  creatures  he  was 
carrying;  we  made  the  same  discovery,  so  hired  an  Indian 
to  lug  the  trophies  home  for  us. 

While  homeward  bound  we  crossed  a  small  open  place 
where  not  a  plant  grew,  and  the  sand  shimmered  with  a 
dull  glow.  Coming  directly  for  us  was  a  white,  plume-like, 
waving  object  which  could  hardly  be  distinguished  from 
its  surroundings,  but  when  both  the  judge  and  the  secre- 
tario  shouted  Zorino  I  knew  enough  to  shoot,  and  shoot 
to  kill.  We  waited  a  moment  to  see  whether  the  animal 
was  dead,  then  approaching  carefully,  I  picked  up  a  fine 
skunk.  Just  then  his  mate  put  in  an  appearance  on  the 
edge  of  the  opening,  and  there  was  no  choice  but  to  add 
her  to  the  collection.  When  it  came  to  carrying  home  these 
additions  to  the  bag,  even  the  Indian  balked,  so  I  tied 
them  to  the  end  of  my  gun-barrel  and  carried  them  in  this 
manner.  Early  the  next  morning  the  entire  town  came 
to  see  the  Zorinos;  the  scent  had  penetrated  into  the  fur- 
thermost hut,  and  they  had  unerringly  traced  it  to  its 
source. 

Few  things  could  be  more  delightful  than  the  tramp  home 
across  the  desert;  the  clear  moonlight,  the  crisp  air,  and 
the  tremulous  wail  of  an  owl,  all  added  enchantment  to  the 
night's  outing;  and,  above  all,  we  had  had  a  capital  good 


VIZCACHA-HUNTING    AND    GIANT   SNAKES      411 

time,  and  cemented  a  friendship,  as  only  a  trip  of  this  kind 
can,  with  our  kindly  Argentine  host.  He  is  a  splendid  fellow, 
a  peerless  companion;  and  one  of  my  fondest  hopes  is  that 
I  may  some  day  again  tramp  the  moonlit  Argentine  deserts 
in  his  company. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

THE  LAKE  REGION  OF  WESTERN  ARGENTINA— THE 
HEART  OF  THE  WINE  COUNTRY 

INHABITANTS  of  the  vine-growing  districts  of  Argentina 
claim  that  their  country  produces  more  wine  than  Cali- 
fornia; and,  judging  by  appearances  as  we  entered  the 
Province  of  San  Juan,  there  seemed  to  be  abundant  evi- 
dence to  support  the  belief  that  the  yield  of  grapes  is  enor- 
mous. The  soil  is  sandy  and  the  seepage  of  snow-water 
from  the  mountains  is  ample  to  make  up  for  the  lack  of 
rainfall. 

Many  of  the  vineyards  are  of  great  extent.  Grapes  of 
numerous  varieties  are  grown,  and  for  size  and  flavor  they 
are  unequalled  by  any  I  have  ever  seen  anywhere.  Wines 
of  many  kinds,  and  grades,  are  made,  and  they  are  of  uni- 
formly excellent  quality.  Even  the  champagnes  are  good. 
The  price  at  which  they  sell  is  low  in  that  part  of  the  coun- 
try— so  low  in  fact  that  even  the -laboring  class  drink  them 
with  their  meals.  In  Buenos  Aires  they  cost  as  much  as 
the  imported  article,  owing  to  the  fact  that  freight  between 
San  Juan  or  Mendoza  and  Buenos  Aires  equals  or  exceeds 
shipping  charges  from  Spain,  Portugal,  and  France. 

The  city  of  San  Juan  reminded  us  of  Salta;  perhaps  it  is 
not  quite  so  large  or  up-to-date,  but  it  is  nevertheless  not 
unattractive;  we  spent  little  time  there  as  we  had  been  in- 
vited to  a  finca,  where  there  is  a  lake  of  considerable  size, 
to  shoot  ducks. 

One  of  my  ambitions  had  always  been  to  find  a  place 
where  ducks  and  geese  were  really  plentiful — in  fact  abun- 
dant enough  to  furnish  an  interesting  pastime,  observing 
them  under  conditions  that  were  not  too  trying,  and  where 
they  would  also  furnish  good  sport.  We  had  heard  of  the 
wonderful  shooting  on  Lake  Titicaca,  but  upon  our  arrival 

412 


LAKE  REGION  OF  WESTERN  ARGENTINA        413 

the  season  was  closed  and  there  was  little  besides  coots  and 
grebes;  however,  at  certain  times  of  the  year  there  is  an 
abundance  of  water-fowl  and  sportsmen  from  La  Paz  get 
enviable  shooting  opportunities. 

The  marshes  along  the  Cauca  River,  Colombia,  had  given 
better  results.  Teals,  tree-ducks,  ruddies,  and  an  occasional 
pair  of  big  muscovies  could  always  be  found;  but  the  ducks 
were  loath  to  take  wing,  and  going  after  them  in  the  dense 
grass  and  thorny  shrubbery  growing  in  the  marshes  was 
very  trying  work. 

Then  we  had  reached  the  rice-growing  district  around 
Los  Sarmientos. 

"Ducks?"  they  said.  "Why,  hombre,  they  are  bringing 
them  into  Tucuman  by  the  thousands.  The  government 
is  paying  a  bounty  of  five  cents  a  head  on  them  as  they  are 
destroying  all  the  rice.  They  are  swooping  down  by  the 
tens  of  thousands;  all  the  lakes  in  the  south  have  dried 
up,  so  they  are  coming  here.  When  the  flocks  rise  from 
the  fields,  the  earth  trembles." 

That  was  certainly  good  news;  but  when  we  arrived, 
the  birds  had  departed  for  regions  unknown. 

Leaving  San  Juan  at  6  P.  M.,  we  reached  a  station  called 
Media  Agua  (half  water)  two  hours  later.  Our  new  friend 
had  sent  a  peon  to  meet  us,  bringing  a  wagon;  so  as  soon 
as  we  could  extricate  our  luggage  from  the  pile  on  the  station 
platform,  we  loaded  the  vehicle  and  started  on  the  long 
drive  across  the  cold,  barren  country.  It  was  very  dark 
and  there  was  not  much  of  a  road  anyway,  so  the  wagon 
jolted  along  over  the  rocks  or  dragged  heavily  through  deep 
sand.  The  cold  was  intense;  we  wrapped  up  in  heavy  In- 
dian blankets,  which,  however,  did  not  give  complete  pro- 
tection from  the  stinging  blasts. 

At  midnight  the  driver  refused  to  go  any  farther  and 
drew  up  at  a  lonely  hut,  where  we  spent  the  rest  of  the 
night.  Early  next  morning  we  were  off  again.  We  now 
passed  through  large  irrigated  fields  where  wheat  was  grown, 
and  also  a  good  deal  of  maize.  Then  the  desert  began 


414  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

again,  and  from  appearances  there  was  not  a  drop  of  water 
within  many  miles. 

We  questioned  the  driver  about  the  lake,  and  whether 
there  were  any  patos  (ducks);  but  he  only  shrugged  his 
shoulders  and  said:  "Quien  sabef 

Suddenly  we  saw  the  shimmer  of  placid  water  ahead, 
and  soon  drew  up  at  a  board  shack  some  little  distance  from 
the  lake.  Our  man  had  told  us  to  take  nothing  but  our 
guns  and  ammunition,  as  his  caretaker,  who  lived  in  the 
hut  we  had  just  reached,  would  provide  everything  else. 
We  took  a  tent  and  a  few  provisions  anyway,  just  to  be 
safe,  and  it  was  lucky  that  we  did.  Not  only  had  nothing 
been  provided,  but  the  tenant  had  not  even  been  advised 
of  our  coming.  He  had  only  one  dirty  little  room,  but  this 
he  very  generously  placed  at  our  disposal;  however,  we 
preferred  to  camp  outside,  although  it  was  bitter  cold.  His 
wife  consented  to  do  the  cooking. 

The  tent  was  hastily  put  up;  then  we  hurried  to  the  lake, 
leaving  the  family  busily  engaged  in  slaughtering  a  goat 
for  lunch. 

All  the  surrounding  country  is  a  wind-swept  desert,  there 
being  no  trees  and  but  a  few  thorny  bushes.  In  spots  the 
sand  and  alkali  dust  is  several  feet  deep.  It  seemed  im- 
possible that  there  could  be  a  lake  in  such  a  parched-look- 
ing locality;  but  there  lay  the  glistening  sheet  of  water, 
stretching  away  into  the  distance  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
see.  Along  the  edges  were  vast,  shallow  marshes,  cover- 
ing hundreds  of  acres;  in  these,  sedges  grew  abundantly, 
forming  shelter  and  providing  a  limitless  feeding-ground  for 
water-fowl.  Half  a  mile  from  the  bank  stood  great  clumps 
of  totoras,  or  cattails,  rearing  then*  tough,  slender  stems  to 
a  height  of  seven  or  eight  feet  above  the  water.  What  was 
infinitely  more  interesting  to  us,  the  whole  surface  of  the 
lake,  from  its  marshy  edge  to  the  rows  of  totoras  fading 
away  in  the  distance,  was  teeming  with  water-birds. 

There  were  no  boats  to  be  had  in  the  neighborhood,  as 
the  natives  use  reed  rafts.  They  cut  quantities  of  cattails, 


LAKE  REGION  OF  WESTERN  ARGENTINA        415 

bind  them  into  long,  thick  bundles  and,  lashing  several 
of  them  together,  form  a  craft  that  will  support  a  man,  al- 
though his  feet  are  always  under  the  icy  water.  Shooting 
from  such  a  contrivance,  unless  it  is  larger  than  any  I  have 
seen,  would  be  impossible.  Therefore  we  started  to  walk 
along  the  muddy  banks  in  the  hope  that  something  would 
fly  over. 

After  having  gone  a  short  distance,  a  commotion  among 
the  sedges  attracted  our  attention,  and  a  moment  later  a 
large  gray  fox  appeared  and  trotted  away.  A  charge  of 
No.  4  shot  stopped  him;  he  was  in  splendid  fur  and  made 
a  desirable  addition  to  our  lot  of  trophies.  Later,  we  saw 
them  frequently;  they  haunt  the  edges  of  the  marsh  and 
feed  upon  coots  and  wounded  ducks.  Carrion-hawks,  also, 
were  always  about  in  considerable  numbers  and  reaped  a 
rich  harvest. 

Coots  of  several  species  were  running  around  everywhere. 
They  wandered  far  away  from  the  water,  apparently  to 
pick  up  toads  or  lizards,  and  as  we  approached,  scurried 
back  to  the  marsh  or  hid  in  the  dense,  low  bushes,  where 
they  remained  motionless  until  the  cause  of  their  fright  had 
passed.  Ducks  were  all  well  out  of  range  and  refused  to  fly 
over.  I  hesitate  to  estimate  their  numbers,  there  were 
such  countless  thousands,  but  in  many  places  the  water 
was  covered  with  them,  and  there  were  large  white  geese 
and  black-necked  swans.  Black  rails  of  good  size  darted 
about  or  waded  boldly  out  in  the  open,  jerking  their  tails 
and  clucking. 

It  did  not  take  us  long  to  discover  that  we  were  too  late 
in  the  day  for  ducks,  so  we  started  back  to  camp,  cutting 
across  the  country.  Several  tinamous  got  up  singly,  with 
a  loud. whir  of  wings;  they  flew  straight  and  fast,  a  great 
contrast  to  the  slow,  wavering  flight  of  the  forest-inhabit- 
ing species. 

.  When  we  reached  camp,  some  of  the  goat-meat  had  been 
roasted  and  we  had  a  feast !  The  rest  of  the  day  was  spent 
in  straightening  up  camp. 


416  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Our  eight  by  twelve  foot  "balloon  silk"  tent  had  been 
put  up  under  a  shed  adjoining  the  house;  this  protected 
it  from  the  wind  on  at  least  one  side.  To  be  of  any  use  in 
the  tropics,  the  tent  must  of  course  be  provided  with  a 
ground-cloth  and  bobbinet  curtains;  it  should  also  contain 
a  window,  screened  with  netting,  in  the  roof.  We  did  not 
need  the  curtains,  so  tied  them  back.  A  brazier  was  kindled, 
and  after  it  was  filled  with  glowing  embers,  it  was  taken  into 
the  tent:  it  warmed  the  tent  thoroughly  within  a  few  mo- 
ments and  kept  a  fire  all  night.  The  window,  which  was 
always  kept  open,  served  its  mission  splendidly  as  a  means 
of  ventilation. 

The  owner  of  the  hut  had  gone  away  to  look  for  a  boat, 
and  that  night  returned  with  one  of  ample  size;  but  next 
morning  a  furious  wind  was  blowing,  so  hunting  was  out 
of  the  question.  The  air  was  so  filled  with  dust  that  one 
could  not  see  anything  more  than  a  few  yards  away,  and 
huge  waves  rolled  in  from  the  lake  and  tore  hungrily  at 
the  sandy  banks.  These  storms  are  very  common  during 
the  winter  months  and  blow  up  several  times  a  week. 

The  third  day  of  our  visit  was  beautiful.  We  pushed 
the  boat  out  of  the  tangle  of  sedges  and  made  straight  for 
the  cattails.  The  birds  were  stirring,  and  flock  after  flock 
passed  overhead.  When  we  paddled  quietly  into  the  midst 
of  the  green  islets,  we  seemed  to  enter  a  new  world,  filled 
with  surprises  and  wonderful  beyond  description.  The  tall, 
graceful  stems  of  the  totoras  swayed  gently  with  the  swell 
made  by  the  passing  boat,  and  cast  long  shadows  in  the 
narrow  lanes  of  glassy  water  they  enclosed.  Coots  and 
grebes,  like  shadows,  paddled  silently  away  and  lost  them- 
selves among  the  reeds;  ruddy  ducks  popped  up  here,  there, 
and  everywhere,  stared  a  moment,  and  then  dived  again 
-with  a  splash;  they  seemed  to  spend  a  good  deal  of  .their 
time  under  water,  and  the  fishermen  frequently  caught  them 
in  gill-nets  set  along  the  bottom  of  the  lake.  The  male 
ruddies  were-  in  fine  plumage,  with  deep  chestnut  backs, 
white  throat-patches,  and  bright-blue  bills;  they  seldom 


LAKE  REGION  OF  WESTERN  ARGENTINA       417 

tried  to  fly,  and  then  skimmed  the  water  for  a  few  yards 
only;  the  ones  we  shot  were  so  fat  that  it  is  hard  to  under- 
stand how  they  could  fly  at  all.  Occasionally  we  saw  a 
giant  grebe.  From  a  distance  it  resembled  a  loon;  they 
are  fast  swimmers  and  expert  divers.  Our  boatman  always 
begged  us  to  shoot  these  birds,  as  the  natives  are  very 
fond  of  the  flesh  and,  also,  the  skin  of  the  breast  with  its 
beautiful  white,  silky  feathers,  brings  a  good  price  in  the 
feather  markets.  Needless  to  say,  none  was  shot  for  this 
purpose. 

Among  the  reeds  flitted  a  wonderful  little  bird,  known 
as  the  military  flycatcher,  or  "bird  of  seven  colors.7'  It  is 
little  larger  than  a  wren,  yellow  underneath  and  green  above, 
with  the  crest  and  under  tail-coverts  bright  red;  there  are 
yellow  stripes  on  the  sides  of  the  head  and  the  cheeks  are 
blue;  the  wings  and  tail  are  black.  The  bird  is  a  sprightly 
little  fellow,  flitting  and  jumping  about  among  the  reeds 
in  pursuit  of  small  insects,  and  uttering  its  cheerful  "cheeps" 
at  frequent  intervals;  it  gives  a  touch  of  color  and  dainty 
life  to  the  sombre  green  of  the  vegetation,  and  to  the  re- 
flections in  the  murky  water  below. 

Presently  we  left  the  region  of  the  Moras  and  emerged 
into  the  open  lake.  The  surface  was  dotted  with  ducks, 
coots,  and  grebes — a  squawking,  diving,  racing  mass  that 
defies  description.  We  made  right  for  the  centre  of  action. 
The  coots  always  waited  until  the  boat  was  but  a  few  yards 
away  and  then,  after  giving  a  few  clucks,  started  to  run 
and  flop  across  the  water,  leaving  a  myriad  of  silvery, 
rippling  paths  in  their  wake,  and  making  the  marsh  re- 
verberate with  the  noise.  Often  this  would  frighten  the 
ducks,  and  flocks  would  jump  up  all  around  in  such  vast 
numbers  that  we  were  lost  in  admiration  watching  the  won- 
derful sight  of  the  thousands  of  swishing,  black  forms  hur- 
tling into  the  wintry  sky. 

Our  method  of  hunting  was  to  paddle  along  slowly, 
squatting  low  in  the  boat  until  within  range  of  a  flock  of 
ducks;  then,  by  standing  up  suddenly,  the  flock  would 


418  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

be  frightened  into  taking  wing,  and  the  individuals  we  had 
selected  could  be  picked  off.  We  wanted  birds  in  good 
plumage  only,  and  this  manner  of  hunting  gave  us  the  op- 
portunity of  selecting  each  individual  separately.  There 
were  shovellers  and  cinnamon  teal  without  number;  the 
handsome  males,  in  brightest  plumage,  were  dashing  around 
the  inconspicuously  colored  females,  swimming  low  and 
with  bills  flat  on  the  water;  usually  there  were  not  more 
than  a  dozen  or  fifteen  in  a  party.  Then  there  were  scaups, 
tree-ducks,  pintails,  blackheads,  and  rosy-bills.  The  latter 
were  wary;  they  always  passed  high  above,  in  large  flocks, 
and  the  rushing  sound  made  by  their  wings  could  be  heard 
a  long  distance  away. 

Dabbling  in  the  mud-banks  along  the  edge  of  the  marsh 
were  flocks  of  from  four  to  thirty  large  white  geese  (Casa- 
roba).  Black-necked  swans,  singly  or  in  small  groups,  sailed 
about  majestically.  Of  the  two  birds  the  geese  were  the 
more  graceful,  and  by  far  the  more  beautiful.  The  swans 
were  not  very  wild,  but  when  the  boat  approached  they  be- 
gan to  utter  shrill  "kee-wee's";  finally  they  would  launch 
into  the  ah*  with  a  great  deal  of  flapping,  beating  the  water 
with  powerful  strokes  of  the  wings,  and  keeping  up  their 
cry  all  the  while.  When  we  neared  a  flock  of  geese,  they 
began  to  patrol  the  water  ahead,  swimming  back  and  forth, 
and  eying  us  with  suspicion;  they  swam  well  out  of  the 
water,  with  a  graceful  carriage  of  the  head  and  neck,  and 
uttered  constant  loud,  penetrating  cries  that  sounded  like 
"honk-honk-queenk."  What  is  more  thrilling  than  the  clear, 
piercing  challenge  of  this  spirit  of  the  wild?  Wafted  across 
the  watery  waste  on  the  wings  of  a  crisp  autumn  wind,  it 
comes  as  a  message  from  the  regions  of  snow  and  ice — a 
foreboding  of  the  bleak,  dark  days  to  follow.  I  never  tired 
of  hearing  it,  and  lost  more  than  one  shot  at  a  flock  coming 
over  from  another  direction  because  I  was  so  interested  in 
listening  to  the  fascinating  notes  of  other  birds  ahead  of  us. 
When  they  finally  decided  to  take  wing,  they  rose  from  the 
water  quickly  and  gracefully,  and  flew  at  great  speed, 


LAKE  REGION  OF  WESTERN  ARGENTINA        419 

stringing  out  in  various  formations.  They  always  went  far 
away  before  again  dropping  down  into  the  water. 

We  continued  paddling  through  the  centre  of  the  open 
water  to  a  large  mud-flat  in  search  of  flamingoes.  The 
natives  called  them  chqflos,  and  said  that  a  great  many  came 
to  this  spot  each  day  to  feed  on  the  small  snails  and  other 
mollusks  which  abound  in  the  shallow  places.  When  still 
a  good  distance  away  we  could  make  out  what  seemed  to 
be  a  long  row  of  old  piles  driven  into  the  centre  of  the  mud- 
flat.  The  water  had  become  so  shallow  that  the  boat  could 
not  proceed,  so  there  was  nothing  to  do  but  wade,  not  an 
altogether  pleasant  experience,  as  it  was  bitter  cold  and 
sheets  of  thin  ice  floated  about  everywhere.  When  we 
moved,  the  flamingoes  stood  stock-still  and  looked  at  us; 
when  we  stood  motionless  they  lowered  their  heads,  dabbled 
in  the  mud,  and  walked  about.  From  a  distance  they 
seemed  to  be  of  enormous  size,  and  until  we  were  near  by 
they  appeared  coal-black.  Finally  they  became  restive,  ran 
back  and  forth  a  few  steps  and  then,  beating  the  air  with 
laborious  strokes  of  the  wings,  flew  away.  Frequently,  on 
other  occasions,  they  circled  around  a  few  times  before  de- 
parting from  the  locality. 

We  returned  to  camp  by  way  of  the  sedge  marshes,  al- 
though, on  account  of  the  bushes  and  shallow  water,  poling 
the  boat  through  the  tangle  was  hard  work.  In  the  tops 
of  many  of  the  bushes  were  immense  nests,  built  of  sticks 
and  reed-stems;  they  apparently  belonged  to  the  giant 
coots,  as  many  of  these  birds  still  used  them  for  resting- 
places;  also,  nearly  all  of  the  platforms  were  piled  with 
dead  frogs  which  the  coots  had  disembowelled.  Our  man 
said  that  during  the  months  of  December  and  January  all 
the  people  living  near  the  lagoons  camp  on  the  edge  of  the 
water  and  collect  eggs;  they  gather  immense  numbers  and 
take  them  to  the  markets  of  the  neighboring  towns  to  sell. 

There  were  ducks  everywhere,  feeding  or  playing  among 
the  sedges,  and  flocks  coming  from  the  surrounding  sloughs 
whistled  past  constantly  and  plumped  down  with  a  splash. 


420  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

Black-headed  gulls  flew  back  and  forth  overhead,  and  cor- 
morants stood  on  snags,  drying  their  outstretched  wings. 
To  shoot  birds  under  such  circumstances  would  be  mere 
slaughter,  and  the  number  one  could  kill  is  limited  only 
by  the  amount  of  ammunition  at  hand.  The  natives  kill 
four  or  five  hundred  ducks  each  day  during  this  season, 
and  have  done  so  for  years,  but  the  number  of  birds  does 
not  seem  to  diminish. 

There  were  also  numbers  of  noisy  stilt-sandpipers,  storks, 
and  screamers,  and  occasionally  we  ran  across  a  pectoral 
sandpiper  which,  as  at  Tafi,  was  so  fat  that  it  did  not 
attempt  to  fly  and  could  be  caught  by  throwing  a  hat  over 
it.  Lapwings,  too,  passed  over  in  small  bunches,  scream- 
ing and  quarrelling  as  they  went. 

Nearly  all  the  ducks  were  feeding  on  the  small  seeds  of 
the  water-plants,  and  were  rolling  in  fat;  but  on  several 
occasions  we  ran  into  small  flocks  of  shovellers  and  teals 
which  were  near  the  bank  and  refused  to  fly;  an  examina- 
tion of  several  of  them  showed  that  they  were  very  light 
and  probably  diseased. 

As  we  neared  the  landing,  dusk  was  just  enveloping  the 
landscape.  Red-breasted  meadow-larks  sang  in  the  desert, 
yellow-shouldered  blackbirds  babbled  in  the  thick  reeds, 
and  black  ibises  in  flocks  of  many  thousands  were  return- 
ing from  their  feeding-grounds  miles  away,  to  spend  the 
night  in  the  marshes. 

We  desired  our  birds  principally  for  scientific  purposes; 
that  is,  to  prepare  the  skins  for  museum  specimens,  and 
had  shot  only  a  limited  number  of  the  best-plumaged  in- 
dividuals of  each  species;  but  even  then  our  bag  amounted 
to  over  half  a  hundred  ducks,  a  number  of  geese  and  swans, 
and  a  fairly  good  collection  of  coots,  grebes,  herons,  and 
other  birds  typical  of  the  vast  Argentine  lake  region. 

The  preparation  of  all  this  material  presented  a  stupen- 
dous task.  First  they  were  cleaned  thoroughly  of  all  spots, 
then  hung  up  in  a  safe  place,  where  they  remained  in  good 
condition  on  account  of  the  cold.  The  days  that  followed 


LAKE  REGION  OF  WESTERN  ARGENTINA        421 

were  so  stormy  that  outdoor  work  was  impossible,  so  we 
were  glad  to  remain  in  the  tent  disposing  of  the  work  in 
hand. 

When  the  weather  cleared  we  took  other  boat-trips 
through  the  marshes  and  out  into  the  lake,  but  our  bag 
was  always  limited  to  things  we  did  not  possess  or  needed 
for  food.  The  geese  were  leaving  in  small  flocks  to  breed 
in  the  high  Andes,  the  natives  said.  Swans  also  started  to 
drift  southward;  but  still  the  number  of  remaining  water- 
fowl, mostly  ducks  and  coots  that  did  not  migrate,  was 
incalculable.  The  water  was  constantly  ruffled  by  the 
myriad  of  moving  forms  and,  at  times,  the  roar  of  rapidly 
beating  wings  reminded  us  of  distant  thunder. 

The  few  people  living  in  widely  separated  hovels  around 
the  borders  of  the  lake  lead  miserable  lives.  They  culti- 
vate small  areas  in  grain,  but  live  mostly  on  fish,  water- 
birds,  and  goat's  milk.  The  winter  season  is  most  trying. 
Snow  falls  infrequently  and  in  small  quantities,  but  the 
cold  is  intense.  The  dust-storms,  however,  are  the  real 
tribulations  which  render  life  well-nigh  unbearable.  They 
frequently  last  many  days  at  a  time;  the  fine  sand  sifts 
through  and  into  everything  and  is  almost  suffocating. 
One  breathes  it,  eats  it,  wakes  up  in  the  morning  covered 
with  a  layer,  and  lives  in  it  continuously  as  in  a  thick,  brown 
haze  that  is  most  exasperating  and  invites  almost  constant 
profanity,  at  least  in  thought.  We  were  glad  we  visited 
Media  Agua;  but  we  were  glad  indeed  when  we  found  our- 
selves back  in  San  Juan. 

It  requires  but  four  hours  to  reach  Mendoza  from  San 
Juan  by  train.  This  attractive  city  is  really  in  the  heart 
of  the  wine  country,  but  the  vineyards  were  almost  depleted 
from  the  inroads  of  an  insect  called  the  bicho  de  cesto.  The 
vegetation  all  about  was  covered  with  small,  ragged  cocoons 
from  which  the  hungry  hordes  of  destructive  creatures 
would  emerge  in  the  spring.  In  places  wide  areas  of  weeds 
had  been  burned  over  to  destroy  the  pest  while  still  in. the 
incipient  stage;  but  enough  always  escaped  to  undo  the 


422  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

work  of  the  few  careful  growers  who  attempted  to  stamp 
out  their  enemy  of  the  grape-vines.  The  slaughter  of  birds 
on  a  vast  scale  may  account  for  the  increase  of  the  Ucho  de 
cesto.  We  saw  venders  on  the  streets  carrying  baskets  full 
of  small  birds  of  several  species — mostly  sparrows — which 
they  sold  by  the  dozen.  The  number  killed  weekly  must 
run  into  the  thousands.  As  a  natural  result  of  this  whole- 
sale killing,  birds  are  not  plentiful  in  the  environs  of  Men- 
doza. 

From  the  outskirts  of  the  city  one  has  a  superb  view  of 
the  Andean  Range.  The  lofty  mountains  extend  in  an 
unbroken,  snow-capped  line  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see. 
Aconcagua,  the  peer  of  the  Argentine  Andes,  may  be  seen 
from  a  point  several  miles  south  of  Mendoza,  lording  over 
his  lesser  satellites  in  a  majestic,  awe-inspiring  way.  The 
shifting  mists,  cloud-banks,  and  intermittent  sunlight  play- 
ing on  the  white  peaks  present  an  ever-varying  series  of 
pictures  that  are  unexcelled  for  beauty  and  grandeur. 

At  Mendoza  we  met  an  Italian  who  claimed  to  be  the 
champion  condor-hunter  of  all  South  America.  During 
his  ten  years  of  collecting  he  had  killed  more  than  sixteen 
thousand  of  the  magnificent  birds.  His  record  for  one  day 
was  one  hundred  and  fourteen.  Naturally,  they  had  be- 
come greatly  reduced  in  numbers,  for  the  condor  lays  but 
a  single  egg  and  it  takes  many  months  to  rear  the  young. 
His  method  was  to  drive  a  burro  to  some  lonely  gorge  among 
the  bleak  mountain-tops  favored  by  the  birds,  and  then 
to  kill  the  animal.  He  was  very  particular  in  stating  that 
the  burro  had  to  be  fat — a  poor  one  would  not  do  for  bait. 
He  then  spread  nets  about  the  carcass,  and  when  the  con- 
dors gathered  about  to  feast  he  pulled  a  rope  and  ensnared 
them;  on  one  occasion  he  trapped  sixty-seven  at  one  throw 
of  the  net.  The  prisoners  were  despatched  with  a  club  and 
the  long  wing-feathers  extracted  to  be  exported  to  France 
to  decorate  women's  hats.  Formerly  he  had  received  about 
twenty  pesos  per  bird.  With  his  accumulated  wealth  he 
built  a  powder-mill;  this  promptly  blew  up,  so  he  was  again 


LAKE  REGION  OF  WESTERN  ARGENTINA       423 

practically  penniless.  Of  course  there  were  still  condors  in 
the  mountains — in  fact,  he  knew  of  a  ledge  where  upward 
of  eight  hundred  congregated  to  spend  the  nights,  but  the 
price  of  feathers  had  gone  down  fifty  per  cent  on  account 
of  the  war.  He  ended  his  speech  in  a  very  dramatic  manner: 
"What,"  he  said,  "me  go  out  and  slaughter  such  a  won- 
derful, magnificent,  and  rare  bird  as  the  condor  for  ten  pesos 
each?  No,  senor!  Not  me." 

About  the  only  animal  that  was  abundant  near  Men- 
doza  was  the  jack-rabbit,  introduced  into  the  Argentine 
some  forty  years  ago.  It  has  increased  to  such  an  extent 
as  to  be  harmful,  and  has  spread  over  the  entire  southern 
part  of  the  plains  country.  Many  are  killed  and  sold  in 
the  markets  under  the  name  liebre. 

We  met  Doctor  Chapman  at  Mendoza.  He  had  come 
from  Chile  over  the  Trans-Andean  Railroad.  A  wire  had 
been  sent  us  to  join  him  at  Santiago,  but  it  arrived  three 
weeks  too  late  to  be  of  any  service.  After  a  few  days  spent 
in  taking  photographs  of  the  country  and  collecting  ac- 
cessories for  a  habitat  group  of  the  rhea,  we  started  east- 
ward to  Buenos  Aires. 

We  left  Mendoza  at  one  o'clock  p.  M.,  September  3.  At 
first  there  was  a  seemingly  endless  succession  of  vineyards; 
then  a  vast  expanse  of  arid  country  more  barren  even  than 
the  desert  of  Santiago  del  Estero.  At  midnight  we  left 
the  parched  plains  and  entered  the  fertile  wheat  and  graz- 
ing lands  which  constitute  one  of  Argentina's  chief  sources 
of  wealth  and  justly  entitle  that  country  to  rank  among 
the  producing  and  great  nations  of  the  New  World.  Com- 
modious ranch-houses  standing  in  fields  where  thousands 
of  head  of  live  stock  grazed  were  passed  in  steady  succes- 
sion. In  some  of  the  pastures  hundreds  of  half-tamed  rheas 
fed  unconcernedly  among  the  horses  and  cattle.  Frequently 
we  saw  flocks  of  snowy  gulls  following  a  plough  or  resting 
in  a  bunch  on  the  ground;  lapwings  circled  about  with 
angry  screams,  and  ducks  swam  unconcernedly  in  the  little 
sloughs  beside  the  railroad.  There  were  also  rows  of  solemn, 


424  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

sedate  storks,  gravely  contemplating  the  train  as  it  passed, 
and  flamingoes  dabbling  for  mollusks  in  shallow  pools. 

After  a  continuous  ride  of  twenty-five  hours  we  reached 
Buenos  Aires,  and  two  weeks  later  the  Amazon  of  the  Royal 
Mail  Line  was  speeding  us  homeward. 

I  am  writing  these  last  few  pages  in  an  aviation  con- 
centration-camp awaiting  orders  to  go  to  new  lands,  and 
new  and  possibly  far  more  exciting  experiences;  but  al- 
most daily  my  thoughts  go  back  to  the  great  wonderland 
that  lies  south  of  us,  and  which  I  have  learned  to  love. 
Speed  the  day  when  I  may  again  eagerly  scan  the  horizon 
for  a  first,  faint  tinge  of  its  palm-fringed  shore-line! 


INDEX 


agriculture 

of  Argentina,  390,  412 

of  Bolivia,  287,  321,  326,  337 

of  Colombia,  13,  42,  76-7,  108, 

112 

of  Peru,  270 
Aades.    See  mountains 
Angostura,  142 
animals 

of  Argentina,  391,  401,  404  ff . 
of  Bolivia,  285,  289,  293,  296, 

299,  308,  377 

of  Brazil,  224,  238,  246,  249 
of  Colombia,  6,  13,  36,  38,  44, 
51-2,  56,  88-9, 101-3,  111,  115, 
118,  127 
of  Paraguay,  202,  206,  209-13, 

215 

of  Venezuela,  151,  167,  175-3 
ant-eater,  118,  215 
Antioquia,  113,  121 
ants,  99,  118,  133,  235,  258,  261,  317, 

381 

Arauca,  148 
Arequipa,  268 
armadillo,  211 
Asuncion,  199 
Atures  Cataract,  152,  154 
Aymard.  Indians,  273 

bat,  101,  209,  289,  299 

beena,  186 

beverages:  chicha,   286;    somo,   337; 

yerba  mate,  202,  394 
birds 

of  Argentina,  365,  368 #,  373, 
375  jf.,  379 /.,  384,  387,  391, 
397,  407,  417  jf. 

of  Bolivia,  282,  284,  288,  291, 
293,  297-8,  309,  314,  326-7, 
330,  338,  344  ff.,  353,  359 
of  Brazil,  247,  250,  256,  259,  261 
of  Colombia,  6,  13,  20,  31/.,  36, 
42,  48,  50,  57,  59,  71,  77,  81, 
88,  97/.,  103,  108 /.,  Ill,  113, 
117,  125,  128 /.,  132,  134  Jf. 


birds — continued 

of  Paraguay,  199,  201,  207,  213, 
217,  221 

of  Venezuela,  157,  161,  170,  174, 

183,  189,  191 
boa-constrictor,  403 
Buenaventura,  3,  110 
Buenos  Aires,  198 
Buriticd,  122 
bushmaster,  72,  133,  308 

Cabulla,  76 

cacao,  42 

cactus,  329 

Caicara,  147 

Calama,  261  ff. 

Caldas,  6 

Cali,  10  ff. 

Callao,  266 

Caqueta,  92  jf. 

Carretia  Falls,  158 

Cartago,  47 

cassava,  159 

Catanapo  River,  153 

catfish,  117,  151 

Cauca,  12,  40  ff.,  116 

Caura,  146 /. 

Cerro  do  Norte,  236 

Cerro  Munchique,  29 

Cerro  Terra,  70 

Chaco,  378 /.;  Gran  Chaco,  203 

chicha,  286 

Chil6n,  329 

ChimorS  River,  311jf. 

Choc6,  64 

Cisneros,  5,  110 

Ciudad  Bolivar,  142 

climate 

of  Argentina,  381,  399,  421 

of  Bolivia,  288,  324 

of  Colombia,  3,  8,  21,  54,  61-3, 
64,  80,  83,  94 

of  Venezuela,  176,  185,  190 
coca,  287 
Cochabamba,  279 
cock-of-the-rock,  89  ff. 


425 


426 


INDEX 


Comarapa,  330 /. 
Commemoracao  River,  249 
Cordillera  Occidental,  8 
Corumbd,  208 
crocodile,  215 
Cuchicancha,  281  ff. 
Cufia  Indians,  131 
Cunucunuma  River,  171 
customs.    See  Indians 

Dagua  River,  5 
"death-doctor,"  274 
dress,  native,  25 

El  Carmen,  8 
Embarcacion,  378 
Essiquibo  River,  181 

fer-de-lance,  236,  309 
fish 

of  Bolivia,  294 

of  Brazil,  262 

of  Colombia,  117 

of  Paraguay,  205 

of  Venezuela,  151,  164,  171 

catfish,  117,  151 

method  of  fishing,  117,  154,  164 

piranha,  164 

piraructi,  262 

pacu,  117 
food,  native,  76 
fruit-culture,  390 
funeral  customs,  68 

Georgetown,  180 
gold,  187,  190 
government 

abolition  of  slavery,  295 

dishonesty  of,  163 
Gran  Chaco,  203 

Guajibo  Indians,  150;  Rapids,  155 
Guaviare  River,  162 
Guiana,  180-193 
Gy-Paran£.    See  Parand 

Hdvita,  67 

Huitoto  Indians,  101 

Iguana.    See  reptiles 
Inca  civilization,  355  ff. 
Indians,    customs :    (b  e  e  n  a) ,    186; 
(dances),    229,    257;     ("death- 
,  274;  (dress),  25;  (fes- 


Indians — continued 

tival  of  San  Juan),  100;  (friendly 
offerings),  252;  (funeral),  68; 
(marriage),  93;  (religion),  28,  322 
tribes:  Aymard,  273;  Cufia,  131; 
Guajibo,  150;  Huitoto,  101; 
Maquiritare,  172-3;  Mundrucu, 
262;  Nhambiquara,  232  jf.;  Pa- 
reefs,  228;  Parintintin,  262; 
Patamona,  185  jf.;  Piaroa,  159; 
Quechua,  277,  281,  321,  347, 
356  jf.;  Sirion6,  318;  Yuracare", 
295  (mission  of),  300^. 

industries,  79,  147,  156,  169,  204 

insects 

of  Argentina,  385,  421 

of  Bolivia,  291,  317 

of  Brazil,  235,  258,  261 

of  Colombia,  78,  80,  99,  118,  133 

of  Paraguay,  206,  219 

of  Venezuela,  192 

ivory-nut,  108 

jaguar,  102,  151,  167-8 
jarepas,  76. 
Juntas  de  Tamand,  68 
Juruena,  231-4. 

Kaieteur  Falls,  187 

Laguneta,  49  ff. 
language 

of  Bolivia,  340 

of  Paraguay,  202 
Lao  River,  168 
La  Paz,  270-3 
Lima,  266 

Maipures,  154,  156 
maize,  112 
Malina,  107 /. 
Maquiritare  Indians,  172 
marriage  customs,  93 
mate.    See  yerba  mate 
MattoGrosso,  223.0". 
Medellin,  110 
Mendoza,  421 
Meta,  150 

Minnehaha  Creek,  187,  190 
Mizque,  326 /. 
Mollendo,  267 
money,  7,  73 


INDEX 


427 


monkey,  175,  210,  246,  249,  293,  296, 
314;  howling,  44;  bridges  of,  115 

Monte  Christo,  255 

mosquito,  206,  192 

mountains:  Cerro  Munchique,  29; 
Cerro  Torra,  70;  Cordillera  Occi- 
dental, 9;  Huana  Potosi,  271;  Illi- 
mani,  271;  Mount  Saint  Ignacio, 
19;  Murarata,  271;  Nevada  del 
Tolima,  54;  Paramillo,  120;  Purace, 
19,  22;  Sotara,  23 

Mundrucu  Indians,  262 

native.     See  Indian 
negroes,  187 
Nevada  del  Tolima,  54 
Nhambiquara  Indians,  232  ff. 
Novita,  64,  71 

Orinoco  River,  141-179 

pacu,  117 

Panama  hats,  manufacture  of,  79 

Papagayo  Falls,  228 

Papayan,  23  ff. 

Paramillo,  120 

pdramo,  58 

Parana  River,  240 

Parcels  Indians,  228 

Parintintin  Indians,  262 

Patamona  Indians,  185  ff. 

Perico,  372 /. 

Perrico,  152 

Peru,  265  ff. 

Piaroa  Indians,  159 

Pilcomayo  River,  203,  350  ff. 

piranha,  164,  205,  262 

piraructi,  262 

plants 

of  Bolivia,  294, 297, 315, 317, 324, 
329,  338 

of  Brazil,  243,  249 

of  Colombia,  8,  30,  47,  57-9,  78, 
81,  101,  108,  111,  125 

of  Venezuela,  157,  170,  180,  182 
Porto  Gallileo,  204 
Purace,  19,  22 

Quechua  Indians,  277,  281,  321,  347, 
356  ff. 

raccoon,  285 

rapids:  Atures,    152,    154;    Guajibo, 

155;    Maipures,    154;   San  Borja, 

152;  Sao  Feliz,  256 


rat,   224;   cone-rat,   308;   coypu-rat, 

390-1 
reproduction,    rate    of,    in    tropics, 

245-6 

reptiles,  size  of,  195-7 
of  Argentina,  403 
of  Bolivia,  307-8 
of  Brazil,  236,  262 
of  Colombia,  36,  72,  88,  133 
of  Paraguay,  215 
of  Venezuela,  160 
rice,  390,  393 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  194  ff. 
Rio  Grande,  342  /. 

rivers:  Arauca,  148;  Catanapo,  153; 
Cauca,  12,  40/.,  116;  Chimore*, 
31 1/.;  Commemoracao,  249;  Cu- 
nucunuma,  171;  Dagua,  5;  Essi- 
quibo,  181;  Guaviare,  162;  Ha- 
vita,  67;  Lao,  168;  Meta,  150; 
River  of  Doubt,  198;  Orinoco, 
141  jf.;  Parand,  240;  Pilcomayo, 
203;  Sacre,  228;  San  Antonio, 
291;  San  Juan,  74/.;  Tamana, 
70;  Vichada,  159 
rubber,  155,  169,  182,  254 

Sacre  River,  228 

Saint  Ignacio,  19 

Salavery,  266 

Salencio,  65 

Salta,  367 

Salvajito,  154 

San  Agustin,  85 

San  Antonio  River,  291 

San  Borja  Rapids,  152 

San  Cocho,  76 

San  Fernando  de  Atabapo,  157,  162 

San  Jorge  Rapids,  149 

San  Juan,  74/.;  feast  of,  100 

Sao  Feliz  Rapids,  256 

Sirion6  Indians,  318 

sloth,  88 

Sotara,  23 

Sucre,  346  ff. 

sugar,  13 

Tamand,  70 
tannin,  204 
Tapirapoan,  223 
Tarabuco,  346 
Tiahuanaco,  270 
Titicaca  Lake,  269 


428  INDEX 

Todos  Santos,  295  Vermejo,  337  ff. 

tonca-bean,  147  Vichada  River,  159 

torture.    See  beena  vineyards,  412 

Totora,  328  vizcacha,  401;  hunting  of,  405  ff. 

Treasure  Rock,  149  Volcan,  373  /. 

tribes.    See  Indians 

Trinidad,  200  219 

Tucuman,  382  /. 

Tumatumari,  182 

turtle,  151,  166  T       ,-  £o  MA 

yerba  mate,  202,  394 

Uructim,  209  Yunga*,  287-291 

Yuracare  Indians,  295;    mission  to, 


Vagre,  152 

Valdivia,  114 

Valle  de  las  Papas,  80  Zamuro,  153 


APR  12  1978 


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